Or U- turn basic model is good for the price! But really if you want to get a sleeper audio file grade get the project primary E you might pick one up new for about 250! It has a very good arm
No that's not correct you don't want it completely free between the motor and the spindle yes you want a free meritor yes you want to free spindle but having resistance on the platter is beneficial for the belt it prevents chatter you don't need to do it for a direct drive. Yeah heavy arm is better always. I didn't see u using any of that putty. Has it got any anti- skate screw inside the Machine could be a spring? Does sound like the mat too high or really the arm is too low, a mistake in manufacturing, they didn't take the shrinkage of plastic into account when designing it. you could put a washer a nylon washer 1mm thick would be better on the arm. Another way you could approach it I'm not sure how they've fasten the cartridge? Is it just clipped in? Near the front of the cartridge about 3mm wide, put a 0.5-1 mm piece of stiff card to tilt it slightly the front.
@jedi-mic Agree, to some extent. In this case we observed motor and spindle resistance due to friction, which over time, will potentially cause issues. On most higher grade belt drive turntables I’ve observed rather lengthy rundown times. AT tends to be hit or miss (within the same model). IMO, you want a properly fitted belt and free moving spindle/motor. Some of these AT, when I get them… after 100s… maybe 1000s of hours of use, have no rundown anymore. Bad sign, right? After doing simple lube and new belt they are back to a few seconds of rundown. Is rundown the proper term here??? lol, I suck at technical terms!
@@kappandrew1 you got a lube up your motor and spindle that's what she said😂 there is a couple of makes that put resistance on the platter. You can do it with a 20 gauge feeler gauge and some silicon tubing and some petroleum jelly between the motor and spindle. I done it on my TD 160 yeah I noticed a difference better motor stability less wow. On those type tt maybe where the belt rides on the inner ring you could do it with a hair clip and some thin tubing?? but more than likely properly push it off. if you are going to buy a cheap turntable like that get a direct drive like a newmark, and have a good quality second-hand arm like a moth or make one. Doesn't have to be fitted to the table! but don't forget it has to be stable heavy base ideally in a leaded container. I've heard one of those cheap turntables and repaired it for somebody and tuned it and got it down to 0.09 wow
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Fluance RT81+ is such a better entry level table.
@@bpalpha This is a good suggestion! The fit and finish of the 81 is beautiful as well! Plus… plus, you get a removable headshell!!!
Or U- turn basic model is good for the price! But really if you want to get a sleeper audio file grade get the project primary E you might pick one up new for about 250! It has a very good arm
No that's not correct you don't want it completely free between the motor and the spindle yes you want a free meritor yes you want to free spindle but having resistance on the platter is beneficial for the belt it prevents chatter you don't need to do it for a direct drive.
Yeah heavy arm is better always. I didn't see u using any of that putty. Has it got any anti- skate screw inside the Machine could be a spring? Does sound like the mat too high or really the arm is too low, a mistake in manufacturing, they didn't take the shrinkage of plastic into account when designing it. you could put a washer a nylon washer 1mm thick would be better on the arm. Another way you could approach it I'm not sure how they've fasten the cartridge? Is it just clipped in? Near the front of the cartridge about 3mm wide, put a 0.5-1 mm piece of stiff card to tilt it slightly the front.
@jedi-mic Agree, to some extent. In this case we observed motor and spindle resistance due to friction, which over time, will potentially cause issues. On most higher grade belt drive turntables I’ve observed rather lengthy rundown times. AT tends to be hit or miss (within the same model). IMO, you want a properly fitted belt and free moving spindle/motor. Some of these AT, when I get them… after 100s… maybe 1000s of hours of use, have no rundown anymore. Bad sign, right? After doing simple lube and new belt they are back to a few seconds of rundown. Is rundown the proper term here??? lol, I suck at technical terms!
@@kappandrew1 you got a lube up your motor and spindle that's what she said😂 there is a couple of makes that put resistance on the platter. You can do it with a 20 gauge feeler gauge and some silicon tubing and some petroleum jelly between the motor and spindle. I done it on my TD 160 yeah I noticed a difference better motor stability less wow. On those type tt maybe where the belt rides on the inner ring you could do it with a hair clip and some thin tubing?? but more than likely properly push it off. if you are going to buy a cheap turntable like that get a direct drive like a newmark, and have a good quality second-hand arm like a moth or make one. Doesn't have to be fitted to the table! but don't forget it has to be stable heavy base ideally in a leaded container. I've heard one of those cheap turntables and repaired it for somebody and tuned it and got it down to 0.09 wow