If you added a draw catch (the kind of latch you see on metal tool boxes or wooden chest) to the back in the center you could lock it in the open position. Less then $5 at home depot for one of those latches and then you can use just 2 legs.
Thanks Jared, i just purchased 2 panels from renogy, at a great discount (Thank you very much) and the charge controller, BT module, and fuses from amazon. the panels wont be he for a couple weeks but everything from amazon, I will have by Monday 18 May. Its been almost 3years trying to figure out what I wanted for my 23' Kodiak, but Monday I watched your video and this was just what I needed. In the beginning I was going to purchase a suitcase type of solar system but the only issue I saw was everything was out in the element of the seasons. I have already set up a area for everything and I have a furrion solar plug outside of my right side door prewired. I just had to add 3/8" panel for the controller and fuse to sit on. All I need now will be the panels hopefully that will be before June. Thanks again
Very well said ! I agree 100% with your plan for expansion ideas as well. I did something close, but less $$$. I "studied" solar for about a year. I was getting paralysis by analysis ; so i jumped in with a simple Renogy 100W panel & PWM I bought on Craigslist for $75. Never opened in a sealed box. Bought some connectors and away I went. We do most of our camping in the Pacific N.W. in wooded areas. They're not mounted. We are NOT full timers but are out often 3-5 days at a time & a 2 month snowbird trip. We boondock about 75% of the time. I learned that if panels are not in direct sun they do little to no charging. So I "chase the sun". I bought a new Champion 2000 Inverter generator for backup and occasional 110V. Doubtful I've burned 5 gals of fuel in 3+ years. This last Fall I added a 2nd 100w panel (in parallel) + a 400W portable inverter. We use the inverter to charge the phones, iPads, cameras and laptops. The 2nd panel was a real game changer. Not only much quicker charge times but we often take off in the truck to explore or we take a hike and are gone 1/2 the day. We point each panel about 45 degrees apart from each other to allow for the moving sun. Works like a dream. All in for
Thanks for the info. My wife and I just upgraded our travel trailer. We went from a 2006 Jayco 186 to a Passport 2920 Grand Touring travel trailer. We've been living full-time for almost a year. I've learned a lot from your videos, thank you.
Great video to help those wanting to take baby steps into solar!! It's good to know what to not skimp on so you don't have to replace/upgrade down the line. Thanks very much!
FANTASTIC! Finally, this is the approach most people dare to take. For whatever reason, cost, space, or knowledge about solar, the limiting factor in most cases is where do I start, and how do I expand it without having to replace all the equipment I started with. Great job Jared. Can you speak more on the cables used, size, length, amp ratings, voltage drop? and how they apply to a starter system like this and later expanding to a bigger more demanding array of panels> snaking the cables once is appealing, if it can be done without replacing cables when adding more panels. Thanks again.
I love your channel and all of the information you provide. This is extremely timely as we are looking at how we can "ease" into Solar to do more boon docking without taking out a second Mortgage. lol. Thank you for all you share.
Jared, thank you so much for the video. Love the concise, useful and practical info...miss you on Campendium but I really enjoy you channel. Great job as always.
Many thanks for this video. It shows a path that makes perfect sense, and will eliminate a lot of inefficient purchases while creating a very efficient system.
Many RV manufacturers offer solar (panels, controllers, etc.) as an option. Would you recommend starting with the manufacturer option? My point here is for expansion. With the factory option installed, expanding the roof installation would be easier because the cable routing is already available. Yes? The supplemental suitcase is also viable because of external panel ports on many RVs. Always enjoy your videos!
Great question and it depends on the manufacturers prep. I looked at one for a neighbor this last week and it was technically prepared for solar but all the prep was undersized maxed out at 10 amps. 10 amps can be doable if you wire everything in series but is not the greatest for voltage loss on a run that long with that small of wire. I have seen good prep on some but most the time it’s undersized
@@AllAboutRVs I understand your point. I was looking more at the potential to remove existing wiring and components (inverter, controller, etc.) in favor of more "robust" components, including wiring, from a space perspective.
@@markholland8953 To your point, in order to pull thicker gauge wiring, you would have top open both ends of the cable run, which may mean opening a sealed component on the wall or roof of the camper. What the point of paying for a component you plan to replace. The proper components can be purchased easily. In the end you're paying for overpriced labor. Very few OEMS do a quality solar installation. In fact most aftermarket companies do a proper installation. The list of good ones is very small.
This is the exact thing that I am planning on doing but I think that I am going to use 2- 200 Watt panels with the 40 amp Rover controller. Thanks for another great video!!!
This video timing felt like you were reading our minds! 😂 Just decided this past week that we were going to start small on an expandable solar set up! Thanks for the video! We will be using your links!
Jared, First of all, great write-up for an expandable system that can grow with more $$$ spent without major changes. I apologize in advance for the length of this response, and I certainly didn't set out to confuse the noobies that have watched your video. I have no dog in this fight, as I'm still researching what kind of system to invest in. I have a question about a couple of techniques that seem to be used a lot for grid tie, but I don't seem to see hardly anyone writing about or installing them on the RV side of things. As I mentioned in reply to a previous comment below, each group of panels (group loosely defined as panels that are receiving the same exposure to the sun at the same time), should be on their own charge controller in order for the MPPT to function optimally. This implies that either each charge controller is physically located near it's own group of panels, or there would need to be multiple wire runs going back to the equipment bay if that's where the controllers are. The scenario I'm thinking is where you have a conventional flat array on the roof, then you added another group to the roof, either on tilting stands, or maybe a couple of panels that flipped up like an awning or whatever. There are two techniques used in residential systems that allow everything to be combined, and all the available power sent effectively down two wires: 1) Micro-inverters 2) Solar Optimizers For those reading that have no idea what these are, what these have in common is that they (usually ?) mount (1) per panel, and then the output of all the (micro-inverters or optimizers) are joined together on the same pair of wires down to another device located in the equipment bay. The other thing they have in common is that each device has MPPT built in. The difference is that a micro-inverter takes each panel's output and converts (technically inverts) it into 120VAC, whereas the solar optimizer leaves it as DC, with the voltage usually being much higher than the panel voltage (to minimize the size of the wires), as worked out between all the optimizers in the system and the (usually proprietary; same brand) inverter/charger that is located in the equipment bay. See www.solaredge.com/products/power-optimizer#/ for more info on one brand I've specifically researched. The disadvantage of both systems would be the up-front system cost, and potentially brand specific hardware. A disadvantage specific to the micro-inverter route would be having to effectively fool them into thinking they are connected to the grid, which for safety reasons is built in to the technology. There are certain brands of (main system) inverters that will work with the micro inverters to create a "grid island". For the SMA brand of equipment, see www.wholesalesolar.com/2945484/sma/inverters/sma-sunny-island-6048-us-10-inverter. The brand Enphase also has a complete system including the LiPO batteries they just released see ruclips.net/video/0je0e5bVgBw/видео.html As I mentioned when I started this comment, I haven't seen any of these networked smart systems transfer over to the RV side of things. They have the advantage of identifying problems down to the individual panel; You can look at graphs on your phone showing the output of each panel, relative to it's neighbors, making it easy to spot issues. The technology currently being used in RV solar systems probably dates back to the '80s. Sure, there are smart inverters that can talk Bluetooth or WIFI, and I'm sure the MPPT tracking they have is faster, smarter, and better, but as a complete system, most RV solar tech is getting a little dated. ** Again, apologize for the length of this comment, JC **
I really learned a lot from watching your informative and very useful videos. Even though am not an RV owner yet, but have the confidence now (thanks to you) to buy and self upgrade it to my needs which will save me a good chunk of money. Thanks again.
I like the Renogy products too. Have 4 x 100W panels on the roof of my Grand Design Momentum 351M in series and parallel configuration sending up to 41 VDC and up to 13 Amps to my Rover MPPT 40 Amp controller with BT to my iPhone. I love your idea to expand with tipped ground panels for more solar capture. -Jersey Mike
Question- So would I need a separate solar charge controller dedicated for my portable unit? I already have one for my permenant parallel panels on my roof. Or can I marry them somehow?
Jared, long time follower, love your content thanks! I know it’s been 3 yrs but hoping you will see my post/question. So I’m in the process of adding a 400w Renogy suitcase to our solar arsenal. I have a Zamp port on the side of my Oliver LEII trailer (btw, we bought the Oliver based on your factory visit/review a few years ago!😊). I currently have a Victron MPPT 100/50 for our roof solar and will be adding a 100/30 for the 400W suitcase. Do I need a solar disconnect between the zamp and mppt inside the trailer, like I have for my roof solar? Im thinking no because I can just disconnect the panel at the external zamp port. Thanks again!
Can you give a figure for what Amps you might get in bright sunlight from 100w Renogy portable unit I get 4.5 to 6 Amps on average on a bright day, sunny or just bright doesn't seem to be much different
I'm new to solar, and just bought my first LiFEpo4 battery. It is a 12v 100ah battery. The manufacturer recommends charging it at 20 amps. I want to start with a 200 watt solar setup and I like the idea of piecing it together myself. In the future I want to be able to expand to 400 watts with 2 batteries and maybe 24 volts so how would I size the inverter then?
Jared, have you thought of looking at, or maybe you already have, a hybrid wind turbine in addition to solar? Cloudy days typically bring some wind with them. Topping off the batteries even at night, potentially.
So happy I found your channel. Very nicely done, concise and to the point. I'm going back in time and watching them all. Very interested in the solar. Just got my 24 ft motor home. Keep them coming please.
I have the "solar ready" system from the factory, a great video idea might be on how to upgrade that system. What to upgrade of the factory installed eqpt first, etc. Loved this video, trying to plan out a system. Thank you!
If we have a factory solar connection point on the outside of our 2015 GD Momentum does that mean we have a charge controller already onboard? Thanks 🙏
Very nice set up. We have 2 panels now roof mounted (175s) and looking to upgrade and add 2 more panels, this looks like the way to go for now as we're not ready to mount on roof at this time...thanks for the info!
Hi Jared, So I just bought 100ah LIFEpo4 battery to replace my lead battery. It has a BMS in it and I ordered a bluetooth monitor. I saw a suitcase solar panel that has battery clamps that connects directly to the battery. If I get this do I even need to buy a controller? We mostly do campgrounds, and I was just thinking of in between when we do boondock. Thanks
Hi pretty much did the same thing I found it on a different video about the suitcase. how long did you make those legs if you will and how far down did you drill the hole for it?
Helpful. Our setup is backwards from yours. We have a suitcase solar setup that just clips onto the battery posts. When we get the trailer out of winter storage, we install the batteries (stored in the house all winter) and attach the clips onto the battery. This has worked quite well for the high elevation mountain camping we do. We will eventually want something more permanent and would want to start with the suitcase setup. We’re running the original type converter, optima blue top batteries, no modifications in the trailer. 90% boondocking. Mid may through mid October
Question about multiple Solar Controllers: First, Great video Jared. Here's my question... If you have multiple Solar Controllers, one for the roof solar panel, and one for the portable solar panel, will the 2 Solar Controllers confuse each other? For example, let's say your battery is dead. The solar panel on your roof is providing "Bulk Charge" using that panels fullest amperage. Now, you plug in the portable controller. Won't the portable controller "see" the high voltage on the battery coming from the solar controller pumping in that bulk charge? Wont then the portable controller just provide a trickle charge, rather than it too providing a bulk charge, therefore not adding much value?
Great question. We often charge the batteries with multiple chargers and they work well together. The internal resistance of the battery is what allows it to accept a charge from multiple charge sources. So the voltage being set by the charge controllers don't effect the other one the way you might think it would. In setting things up for this video we actually had the Multiplus charging the batteries while the panels on the roof were charging the batteries through one charge controller and the portable unit in this video was also charging the batteries. We had a combined 110 amps going into the batteries. I hope that helps
When wired properly, the charge controller is reading the battery voltage, not the charger voltages. Even though 14.6-14-8 volts is going in, the battery is still reading in the 12.? range and slowly increasing. A good quality charger also handles this well if you're using a generator to supplement charging. Good question!
I want to start working toward having a solar setup on our new trailer and the first thing I would like to get is a 2000 watt inverter for our 2 deep cycle batteries. I need to power a CPAP machine and a small refrigerator. The trailer is prewired for solar on the roof. Is there one device that will be a good starting point?
Thank you for showing how you built it, but one reason I googled and found your video is because I need to know exactly what the connection to the battery from a suitcase panel with a separate charge controller looks like. At 7:00 in the diagram the positive from rv load disconnect...what is that? UGH I still have no idea after 12:01 minutes.
Hi, I enjoy watching your videos. I have a question.... Can you tell me the height of the Renogy Rover please? I plan to mount it on a side wall and want to make sure it does not interfere with the Slide moving extending/retracting.
I love the idea of finding the most efficient upgrade path to solar. Can I start with the Victron Multiplus 3000 12v with one 12v lithium ion 100ah battery with the plan to increase my battery bank over time? Any issues other than not taking advantage of the full capability of the inverter? Thank you for all you do Jared. Extremely helpful for us DIYers!
ADVICE PLEASE… I have a camper with a 100w fixed mounted panel. I would like to intermittently add a 200w briefcase that I can use when the fixed panel is under a shade tree. The briefcase has no controller and I would like to run it through the existing controller on my camper. That controller is 12vdc, max 30v, 6a Solar and 6a battery. How do I wire the new portable panel? Do I just wire it to the same +/- lugs that the fixed panel is wired to? Anyone, please advise.
I bought 4 Renogy 100W panels in October 2019. All came nicely packaged with lots of Renogy markings. The “Renogy Installation Guide for PV Modules” states in section 4.1 (Page 5) that drilling holes in the frame of the panel will void the warranty. Since there is a substantial performance warranty, what info can you share? Has Renogy dropped this requirement. I would love to add some hinges and legs like you did. Maybe I am just too conservative.
Jared, always great information sir! What about mounting systems? When our 5er was being built I had an extra large battery area built and oversized junction box on the roof for “future” solar. Is there multiple mounting systems or are most systems “whatever works for you”. Personally I would like to tilt on both sides of the coach because most times you can’t control sun rise/set direction. Thanks for the video!!
Great video Jared exactly the info I was looking for, I have a very small 16 foot trailer with a very busy roof and a permanent mount just doesn't seem feasible. This will work great to top up the batteries while boondocked, one question though, how weatherproof is this system if it was left out while we were away and a sudden storm came up?
We are new to rv'ing and purchased a travel trailer with a very nice 400W Renogy solar system. There's hundreds of videos on these solar systems to install but none of them really get into what to do when you're storing your rv for several months at a time. I have a ON-OFF switch but should I disconnect the batteries, etc?
If we were storing our RV I would let the solar keep the batteries topped off. I would disconnect the batteries from any potential loads so there is no draw on them but leave the solar on to keep them from self discharge.
Jared, good info as always. I have narrowed down (currently that is) between the Victron and the Magnum 3000W 12VDC Pure Sine Hybrid Inverter Charger MSH Series Model MSH3012. Do you have any input between the two?
What does it mean if my camper already has a solar ready plug? Can i just plug panels into that, or would i still need a charge controller? Love your videos, very informative.
The "solar plug" is nothing more than an outlet that goes to the batteries.The plug is designed to receive power from a portable setup that includes a charge controller.
Quick question. Hopefully someone can answer it. Can I run two extra panels like this to my external terminals on my camper, and then those wires through my charge controller along with the rooftop solar? The idea being I don't have to buy another charge controller for two more panels.
@@AllAboutRVs I have 6- 100w Renogy panels on the roof of my truck camper, and a 40A charge controller. Everything I have is renogy, including two 140 amp hour lithiums. I planned on doing just like you did, and using two more 100w Renogy's to connect to the terminals with alligator clips and wire that through the charge controller.
@@AllAboutRVs I guess my only worry was connecting a different source to the same terminals on the charge controller. Even though they are the same Renogy panels.
@@lwadeallen I was more looking to use them as a secondary energy source in case I parked in the shade. And want to make it easy by just using alligator clips and the external battery terminals.
Question, when you are upgrading your inverter. Did you have to run a knew cable from the battery bank back to your inverter. I ask this because I have a 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 29mv, I replaced the stock house battery with 4 x 100 lithium and I upgraded the stock inverter "1000w" with a 3000w inverter, I upgraded the converter as well, with a model designed for lithium batteries "same brand" as stock. I have 4 x 100w flexible panels on the roof. I must say, I feel the system is terribly "under preforming" I'll furnace you with more specific details if you feel like digging into this with me. I had a company take a look at my setup and was told that some of my cables were undersized. But when they suggested that the cables leading into the inverter were too small, I had to stop and get a second opinion. Thanks in advance Ron, Indy
Yes we did new cable from the inverter to the batteries. We have 4/0 cable which is 0000 not 4 awg. The size of the cable can be very limiting. I have seen replacing a converter with a 60 amp converter and not changing the wire to limit the charge at 20 amps. Once the wire was properly sized it was able to deliver the full 60 amps. Wire sized too small will limit power and potentially be a fire hazard if not fused for safety.
@@AllAboutRVs Thank you, I'm going to double check the size gong into the inverter. I was thinking about contacting Jayco because they used bulk wiree that don't have any markings, one wire going into the inverter actually has a hand written (+) plus sign to show (positive) , wow
This was a great video, thank you! Would you be able to talk about how this might work with "solar ready" campers? What are the limitations with "solar ready" campers and what equipment would have to be replaced on the "solar ready" systems? Thanks again.
Solar ready is a term that is not consistant across OEM's. This means many things. Some have dead end wiring that is helpful, but doesn't help with any of the components. The solar plug is simply an outlet with wires to the battery. You still need the panels and charge controller.
In my research of new campers that are marketed as having "Solar Prep", it often means that you can have as much solar as the third party vendor allows. Unfortunately, that usually means that you can't actually install much solar. The wiring included in a "Solar Prep" camper isn't enough to support the number of watts I would like to put in. I'll have to run new wiring to make that happen. Ideally, what I would like to see is 3/4" conduit run from the roof to where the batteries are located.
Hey Jared, I'm going to take the plunge into fulltime rv'ing. I also plan to do a significant amount of boondocking. Is any of the solar equipment available at purchase worth it? Or, should I just plan on taking the basics (standard equipment) and purchase custom as I add the solar?
All About RV's Ok, I didn’t know if there was a preference on brand names based on quality. Our trailer has Furrion equipment, but I have to buy the cameras and install. Oh my gosh they want a pretty penny for their stuff. I am trying to find compatible equipment at a lesser price, thanks
Hi! Total greenhorn here. I have 2016 Dynamax REV rv prewired by Zamp with plug in port. I have what they said are flood/wet batteries..new in February. Had a professional check polarity and make me an extension cord. I bought a Renogy 10p watt suitcase with 20 A attached weatherproof controller. Used it 2xs- fine. Then it showed a code- b01- which they say means battery < 3v. It can't be..since lights step and frig work fine. Any ideas?
Thank you so much for this awesome informative video. It’s exactly the info I need. I currently have 440 amp hours of lead acid batteries (I am powering a 120v fridge and charging with converter plugged into 120v via 30 amp plug in and also isolator off alternator when bus is running) I haven’t installed solar panels yet but plan too. And when my batteries go, switch to lithium. I have a xantrex 2000w inverter and am not sure if it will work lithium batteries. I am very grateful for you sharing these products that I can use now with lead acid and later with lithium! Btw, how long is the 15% off discount for lion batteries good for?
Not sure how long the 15% will be good for, I just had an email that it’s the special they are running right now with the allaboutrvs code compared to the typical 10%
That’s a good idea. I had just been storing them in the front cargo area when I traveled and they took up a lot of space. I don’t have a couch but I can put them in front of my bed and the wall. It’s not enough space to walk but enough for the panels. Thanks. 👍🏻
My Fleetwood RV came with a system on the roof. I want to add portable panels so when I am camping under trees I can put them out in the sun. Can I add these to the original system or do I need to change out or add to what I have.?
Purchase a kill-o-watt unit. Or you can google "rv power audit" and find tons of lists and spreadsheets to work from. A basic RV uses 15-40 amp hours per day depending on the size of the rig and the items you use. A larger RV could be 60-100 or more.
I did a 10 amp inl-ine fuse for the panels since they were wired in series and a 30 amp fuse with 30 amp wire to the batteries to match the 30 amp charge controller. If you add more panels to this setup then you don't need to replace the fuse and wire up to 30 amps.
The code is good for regular priced items. I saw the DC to DC charger was a free item deal of some kind. I just ordered a DC to DC charger and it worked then. I'll send them an email to see what is going with that. It's a little strange if anything in the cart is a special it will reject the code. I had to add one regular price item add the code and then the other items I needed.
I went to the web site link from your video. They replied with this link. lionenergy.com/products/400-watt-solar-panel-kit Our 5th wheel came prepped for solar with a plug on the side of the trailer. I was told I could just "plug and go". Was I mislead and do I need all the components that you have mentioned? This was a great video and really simplified the solar issue for those of us who would like to go off grid sometimes! Thank you
You were kind of mislead. In order to use the plug, you would need a suitcase style set of panels that has the controller mounted on the panels. The system Jared made in the video is the best way to do it. Having the controller on my panels is the least efficient way and also risks damaging the controller due to weather. The controllers are not waterproof.
Great, informative video. But what does someone with a towable with limited space to mount a controller in their basement storage do? Not all of your subscribers have the extra storage spaces found in a 5th wheel. I've got with a Renogy suitcase that is totally self contained. Besides the controller being mounted on the back of the cells (200W suitcase), it comes with a carry bag. I'm planning on building a slide in storage box to carry my panels in the back of our pickup until I decide to install PV on the trailer roof. At that point, I'll probably look to match the suitcase cells and move them, along with additional cells, to the roof. I noticed you link to Lion Energy for lithium batteries. Since you use Battle Born, if I remember correctly, how you rate Lion Energy's UT1300's. And how do you feel they compare to Battle Born?
Installing solar is not so daunting now, thank you for all of your video's.
Glad to help
If you added a draw catch (the kind of latch you see on metal tool boxes or wooden chest) to the back in the center you could lock it in the open position. Less then $5 at home depot for one of those latches and then you can use just 2 legs.
Thanks Jared, i just purchased 2 panels from renogy, at a great discount (Thank you very much) and the charge controller, BT module, and fuses from amazon. the panels wont be he for a couple weeks but everything from amazon, I will have by Monday 18 May. Its been almost 3years trying to figure out what I wanted for my 23' Kodiak, but Monday I watched your video and this was just what I needed. In the beginning I was going to purchase a suitcase type of solar system but the only issue I saw was everything was out in the element of the seasons. I have already set up a area for everything and I have a furrion solar plug outside of my right side door prewired. I just had to add 3/8" panel for the controller and fuse to sit on. All I need now will be the panels hopefully that will be before June. Thanks again
Renogy makes nice stuff, and their customer service was excellent when I was having trouble with a charge controller. Two thumbs up for sure.
Very well said ! I agree 100% with your plan for expansion ideas as well. I did something close, but less $$$. I "studied" solar for about a year. I was getting paralysis by analysis ; so i jumped in with a simple Renogy 100W panel & PWM I bought on Craigslist for $75. Never opened in a sealed box. Bought some connectors and away I went. We do most of our camping in the Pacific N.W. in wooded areas. They're not mounted. We are NOT full timers but are out often 3-5 days at a time & a 2 month snowbird trip. We boondock about 75% of the time. I learned that if panels are not in direct sun they do little to no charging. So I "chase the sun". I bought a new Champion 2000 Inverter generator for backup and occasional 110V. Doubtful I've burned 5 gals of fuel in 3+ years. This last Fall I added a 2nd 100w panel (in parallel) + a 400W portable inverter. We use the inverter to charge the phones, iPads, cameras and laptops. The 2nd panel was a real game changer. Not only much quicker charge times but we often take off in the truck to explore or we take a hike and are gone 1/2 the day. We point each panel about 45 degrees apart from each other to allow for the moving sun. Works like a dream. All in for
This certainly takes the price sticker panic out of the whole set up, thanks.
That hit the sweetspot for me for getting started with solar.
I'm really liking the Bluetti brand as a user friendly starter for newbie.
This is exactly what I'm looking for, thank you Jared. I plan on upgrading my rv in a year or two, so I don't want anything permanent.
Thanks for the info. My wife and I just upgraded our travel trailer. We went from a 2006 Jayco 186 to a Passport 2920 Grand Touring travel trailer. We've been living full-time for almost a year. I've learned a lot from your videos, thank you.
Nice video. Would love to see actual installation steps of inverter, controller etc. Best way to mount components and run wires, etc.
Great video to help those wanting to take baby steps into solar!! It's good to know what to not skimp on so you don't have to replace/upgrade down the line. Thanks very much!
Another great video. Glad to see that you have gone over 100k subscribers.
Another great video. It was great meeting you and your family in Provo today.
Jared, you always do such great videos. Thank you so much!
I am going to do this...but with bigger panels. Ground mount can be good to get panels out of shade u r parked in..
Great job on this video Jared! With this system you would have the versatility of compatibility with the possibility of universal adaptability.
FANTASTIC! Finally, this is the approach most people dare to take. For whatever reason, cost, space, or knowledge about solar, the limiting factor in most cases is where do I start, and how do I expand it without having to replace all the equipment I started with. Great job Jared. Can you speak more on the cables used, size, length, amp ratings, voltage drop? and how they apply to a starter system like this and later expanding to a bigger more demanding array of panels> snaking the cables once is appealing, if it can be done without replacing cables when adding more panels. Thanks again.
I love this simple solution. DW will say why do we need to do this this year. We aren't going anywhere anytime soon.
I love your channel and all of the information you provide. This is extremely timely as we are looking at how we can "ease" into Solar to do more boon docking without taking out a second Mortgage. lol. Thank you for all you share.
Jared, thank you so much for the video. Love the concise, useful and practical info...miss you on Campendium but I really enjoy you channel. Great job as always.
Congrats on going over 100k subs man, well deserved and your channel is still undervalued. Have a nice weekend Jared and fam.
Many thanks for this video. It shows a path that makes perfect sense, and will eliminate a lot of inefficient purchases while creating a very efficient system.
Many RV manufacturers offer solar (panels, controllers, etc.) as an option. Would you recommend starting with the manufacturer option? My point here is for expansion. With the factory option installed, expanding the roof installation would be easier because the cable routing is already available. Yes?
The supplemental suitcase is also viable because of external panel ports on many RVs.
Always enjoy your videos!
Great question
@@LadyDimePiece4Eva -- Ditto! Y'all Be Safe!
Great question and it depends on the manufacturers prep. I looked at one for a neighbor this last week and it was technically prepared for solar but all the prep was undersized maxed out at 10 amps. 10 amps can be doable if you wire everything in series but is not the greatest for voltage loss on a run that long with that small of wire. I have seen good prep on some but most the time it’s undersized
@@AllAboutRVs I understand your point. I was looking more at the potential to remove existing wiring and components (inverter, controller, etc.) in favor of more "robust" components, including wiring, from a space perspective.
@@markholland8953 To your point, in order to pull thicker gauge wiring, you would have top open both ends of the cable run, which may mean opening a sealed component on the wall or roof of the camper. What the point of paying for a component you plan to replace. The proper components can be purchased easily. In the end you're paying for overpriced labor. Very few OEMS do a quality solar installation. In fact most aftermarket companies do a proper installation. The list of good ones is very small.
This is the exact thing that I am planning on doing but I think that I am going to use 2- 200 Watt panels with the 40 amp Rover controller. Thanks for another great video!!!
This video timing felt like you were reading our minds! 😂 Just decided this past week that we were going to start small on an expandable solar set up! Thanks for the video! We will be using your links!
That's great! thank you.
Jared,
First of all, great write-up for an expandable system that can grow with more $$$ spent without major changes. I apologize in advance for the length of this response, and I certainly didn't set out to confuse the noobies that have watched your video. I have no dog in this fight, as I'm still researching what kind of system to invest in. I have a question about a couple of techniques that seem to be used a lot for grid tie, but I don't seem to see hardly anyone writing about or installing them on the RV side of things. As I mentioned in reply to a previous comment below, each group of panels (group loosely defined as panels that are receiving the same exposure to the sun at the same time), should be on their own charge controller in order for the MPPT to function optimally. This implies that either each charge controller is physically located near it's own group of panels, or there would need to be multiple wire runs going back to the equipment bay if that's where the controllers are. The scenario I'm thinking is where you have a conventional flat array on the roof, then you added another group to the roof, either on tilting stands, or maybe a couple of panels that flipped up like an awning or whatever.
There are two techniques used in residential systems that allow everything to be combined, and all the available power sent effectively down two wires:
1) Micro-inverters 2) Solar Optimizers
For those reading that have no idea what these are, what these have in common is that they (usually ?) mount (1) per panel, and then the output of all the (micro-inverters or optimizers) are joined together on the same pair of wires down to another device located in the equipment bay. The other thing they have in common is that each device has MPPT built in.
The difference is that a micro-inverter takes each panel's output and converts (technically inverts) it into 120VAC, whereas the solar optimizer leaves it as DC, with the voltage usually being much higher than the panel voltage (to minimize the size of the wires), as worked out between all the optimizers in the system and the (usually proprietary; same brand) inverter/charger that is located in the equipment bay. See www.solaredge.com/products/power-optimizer#/ for more info on one brand I've specifically researched.
The disadvantage of both systems would be the up-front system cost, and potentially brand specific hardware. A disadvantage specific to the micro-inverter route would be having to effectively fool them into thinking they are connected to the grid, which for safety reasons is built in to the technology. There are certain brands of (main system) inverters that will work with the micro inverters to create a "grid island".
For the SMA brand of equipment, see www.wholesalesolar.com/2945484/sma/inverters/sma-sunny-island-6048-us-10-inverter.
The brand Enphase also has a complete system including the LiPO batteries they just released see ruclips.net/video/0je0e5bVgBw/видео.html
As I mentioned when I started this comment, I haven't seen any of these networked smart systems transfer over to the RV side of things. They have the advantage of identifying problems down to the individual panel; You can look at graphs on your phone showing the output of each panel, relative to it's neighbors, making it easy to spot issues. The technology currently being used in RV solar systems probably dates back to the '80s. Sure, there are smart inverters that can talk Bluetooth or WIFI, and I'm sure the MPPT tracking they have is faster, smarter, and better, but as a complete system, most RV solar tech is getting a little dated.
** Again, apologize for the length of this comment, JC **
Great video Jared. Always love you videos.
Consider starting with a 24VDC system
Get at-least a 2,000 watt pure sign wave inverter.
I really learned a lot from watching your informative and very useful videos. Even though am not an RV owner yet, but have the confidence now (thanks to you) to buy and self upgrade it to my needs which will save me a good chunk of money. Thanks again.
I like the Renogy products too. Have 4 x 100W panels on the roof of my Grand Design Momentum 351M in series and parallel configuration sending up to 41 VDC and up to 13 Amps to my Rover MPPT 40 Amp controller with BT to my iPhone. I love your idea to expand with tipped ground panels for more solar capture. -Jersey Mike
Thanks Jared! I used your 10% off at Renogy to buy a suitcase solar kit for our camper! Cheers
mounting solar on a sliding rack is better for me.
Question- So would I need a separate solar charge controller dedicated for my portable unit? I already have one for my permenant parallel panels on my roof. Or can I marry them somehow?
Can you substitute the new DC to DC Charger with MPPT for the Rover?
Jared, long time follower, love your content thanks! I know it’s been 3 yrs but hoping you will see my post/question. So I’m in the process of adding a 400w Renogy suitcase to our solar arsenal. I have a Zamp port on the side of my Oliver LEII trailer (btw, we bought the Oliver based on your factory visit/review a few years ago!😊). I currently have a Victron MPPT 100/50 for our roof solar and will be adding a 100/30 for the 400W suitcase. Do I need a solar disconnect between the zamp and mppt inside the trailer, like I have for my roof solar? Im thinking no because I can just disconnect the panel at the external zamp port. Thanks again!
Can you give a figure for what Amps you might get in bright sunlight from 100w Renogy portable unit
I get 4.5 to 6 Amps on average on a bright day, sunny or just bright doesn't seem to be much different
I'm new to solar, and just bought my first LiFEpo4 battery. It is a 12v 100ah battery. The manufacturer recommends charging it at 20 amps. I want to start with a 200 watt solar setup and I like the idea of piecing it together myself. In the future I want to be able to expand to 400 watts with 2 batteries and maybe 24 volts so how would I size the inverter then?
Jared, have you thought of looking at, or maybe you already have, a hybrid wind turbine in addition to solar? Cloudy days typically bring some wind with them. Topping off the batteries even at night, potentially.
So happy I found your channel. Very nicely done, concise and to the point. I'm going back in time and watching them all. Very interested in the solar. Just got my 24 ft motor home. Keep them coming please.
I have the "solar ready" system from the factory, a great video idea might be on how to upgrade that system. What to upgrade of the factory installed eqpt first, etc.
Loved this video, trying to plan out a system. Thank you!
If we have a factory solar connection point on the outside of our 2015 GD Momentum does that mean we have a charge controller already onboard? Thanks 🙏
Very nice set up. We have 2 panels now roof mounted (175s) and looking to upgrade and add 2 more panels, this looks like the way to go for now as we're not ready to mount on roof at this time...thanks for the info!
Thanks for the awesome tips. 🙏🏿
Well done. Having a few tilted ground panels can make a tremendous difference in the actual power produced each day!
Jared, I am just wondering why you went with the Rover instead of staying with Victron?
Why did you connect the panels in series vs parallel?
Hi Jared,
So I just bought 100ah LIFEpo4 battery to replace my lead battery. It has a BMS in it and I ordered a bluetooth monitor. I saw a suitcase solar panel that has battery clamps that connects directly to the battery. If I get this do I even need to buy a controller? We mostly do campgrounds, and I was just thinking of in between when we do boondock. Thanks
This is why I subscribe. Great advice
Hi pretty much did the same thing I found it on a different video about the suitcase. how long did you make those legs if you will and how far down did you drill the hole for it?
Helpful. Our setup is backwards from yours. We have a suitcase solar setup that just clips onto the battery posts. When we get the trailer out of winter storage, we install the batteries (stored in the house all winter) and attach the clips onto the battery. This has worked quite well for the high elevation mountain camping we do. We will eventually want something more permanent and would want to start with the suitcase setup. We’re running the original type converter, optima blue top batteries, no modifications in the trailer. 90% boondocking. Mid may through mid October
Question about multiple Solar Controllers: First, Great video Jared. Here's my question... If you have multiple Solar Controllers, one for the roof solar panel, and one for the portable solar panel, will the 2 Solar Controllers confuse each other? For example, let's say your battery is dead. The solar panel on your roof is providing "Bulk Charge" using that panels fullest amperage. Now, you plug in the portable controller. Won't the portable controller "see" the high voltage on the battery coming from the solar controller pumping in that bulk charge? Wont then the portable controller just provide a trickle charge, rather than it too providing a bulk charge, therefore not adding much value?
Great question. We often charge the batteries with multiple chargers and they work well together. The internal resistance of the battery is what allows it to accept a charge from multiple charge sources. So the voltage being set by the charge controllers don't effect the other one the way you might think it would. In setting things up for this video we actually had the Multiplus charging the batteries while the panels on the roof were charging the batteries through one charge controller and the portable unit in this video was also charging the batteries. We had a combined 110 amps going into the batteries. I hope that helps
When wired properly, the charge controller is reading the battery voltage, not the charger voltages. Even though 14.6-14-8 volts is going in, the battery is still reading in the 12.? range and slowly increasing. A good quality charger also handles this well if you're using a generator to supplement charging. Good question!
I want to start working toward having a solar setup on our new trailer and the first thing I would like to get is a 2000 watt inverter for our 2 deep cycle batteries. I need to power a CPAP machine and a small refrigerator. The trailer is prewired for solar on the roof. Is there one device that will be a good starting point?
I think the kit in this video is a good starting point for the solar.
Thank you for showing how you built it, but one reason I googled and found your video is because I need to know exactly what the connection to the battery from a suitcase panel with a separate charge controller looks like. At 7:00 in the diagram the positive from rv load disconnect...what is that? UGH I still have no idea after 12:01 minutes.
Great job and explanation 👍 Thanks
Hi, I enjoy watching your videos. I have a question.... Can you tell me the height of the Renogy Rover please? I plan to mount it on a side wall and want to make sure it does not interfere with the Slide moving extending/retracting.
Thank you for this, kind sir!
Thanks for your video. What do you store your panels in? A bag of some sort?
No we just kept them under the bed.
Well thank you for your video. I am building my own suitcase and appreciate all the ideas.
I love the idea of finding the most efficient upgrade path to solar. Can I start with the Victron Multiplus 3000 12v with one 12v lithium ion 100ah battery with the plan to increase my battery bank over time? Any issues other than not taking advantage of the full capability of the inverter? Thank you for all you do Jared. Extremely helpful for us DIYers!
ADVICE PLEASE… I have a camper with a 100w fixed mounted panel. I would like to intermittently add a 200w briefcase that I can use when the fixed panel is under a shade tree. The briefcase has no controller and I would like to run it through the existing controller on my camper. That controller is 12vdc, max 30v, 6a Solar and 6a battery. How do I wire the new portable panel? Do I just wire it to the same +/- lugs that the fixed panel is wired to? Anyone, please advise.
I bought 4 Renogy 100W panels in October 2019. All came nicely packaged with lots of Renogy markings. The “Renogy Installation Guide for PV Modules” states in section 4.1 (Page 5) that drilling holes in the frame of the panel will void the warranty. Since there is a substantial performance warranty, what info can you share? Has Renogy dropped this requirement. I would love to add some hinges and legs like you did. Maybe I am just too conservative.
Jared, always great information sir! What about mounting systems? When our 5er was being built I had an extra large battery area built and oversized junction box on the roof for “future” solar. Is there multiple mounting systems or are most systems “whatever works for you”. Personally I would like to tilt on both sides of the coach because most times you can’t control sun rise/set direction. Thanks for the video!!
Great video Jared exactly the info I was looking for, I have a very small 16 foot trailer with a very busy roof and a permanent mount just doesn't seem feasible. This will work great to top up the batteries while boondocked, one question though, how weatherproof is this system if it was left out while we were away and a sudden storm came up?
We are new to rv'ing and purchased a travel trailer with a very nice 400W Renogy solar system. There's hundreds of videos on these solar systems to install but none of them really get into what to do when you're storing your rv for several months at a time. I have a ON-OFF switch but should I disconnect the batteries, etc?
If we were storing our RV I would let the solar keep the batteries topped off. I would disconnect the batteries from any potential loads so there is no draw on them but leave the solar on to keep them from self discharge.
Jared, good info as always. I have narrowed down (currently that is) between the Victron and the Magnum 3000W 12VDC Pure Sine Hybrid Inverter Charger MSH Series
Model MSH3012. Do you have any input between the two?
Super helpful video ... Thanks!
Great info here! Thanks
What does it mean if my camper already has a solar ready plug? Can i just plug panels into that, or would i still need a charge controller? Love your videos, very informative.
The "solar plug" is nothing more than an outlet that goes to the batteries.The plug is designed to receive power from a portable setup that includes a charge controller.
Quick question. Hopefully someone can answer it. Can I run two extra panels like this to my external terminals on my camper, and then those wires through my charge controller along with the rooftop solar? The idea being I don't have to buy another charge controller for two more panels.
I believe you should be able to splice in with some new MC4 connectors. As long as your controller has the capacity.
Yes it’s possible but it’s best to match the panels. If they don’t match I recommend running two controllers.
@@AllAboutRVs
I have 6- 100w Renogy panels on the roof of my truck camper, and a 40A charge controller. Everything I have is renogy, including two 140 amp hour lithiums.
I planned on doing just like you did, and using two more 100w Renogy's to connect to the terminals with alligator clips and wire that through the charge controller.
@@AllAboutRVs
I guess my only worry was connecting a different source to the same terminals on the charge controller. Even though they are the same Renogy panels.
@@lwadeallen
I was more looking to use them as a secondary energy source in case I parked in the shade. And want to make it easy by just using alligator clips and the external battery terminals.
Question, when you are upgrading your inverter. Did you have to run a knew cable from the battery bank back to your inverter. I ask this because I have a 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 29mv, I replaced the stock house battery with 4 x 100 lithium and I upgraded the stock inverter "1000w" with a 3000w inverter, I upgraded the converter as well, with a model designed for lithium batteries "same brand" as stock. I have 4 x 100w flexible panels on the roof. I must say, I feel the system is terribly "under preforming" I'll furnace you with more specific details if you feel like digging into this with me. I had a company take a look at my setup and was told that some of my cables were undersized. But when they suggested that the cables leading into the inverter were too small, I had to stop and get a second opinion.
Thanks in advance
Ron, Indy
Yes we did new cable from the inverter to the batteries. We have 4/0 cable which is 0000 not 4 awg. The size of the cable can be very limiting. I have seen replacing a converter with a 60 amp converter and not changing the wire to limit the charge at 20 amps. Once the wire was properly sized it was able to deliver the full 60 amps. Wire sized too small will limit power and potentially be a fire hazard if not fused for safety.
@@AllAboutRVs Thank you, I'm going to double check the size gong into the inverter. I was thinking about contacting Jayco because they used bulk wiree that don't have any markings, one wire going into the inverter actually has a hand written (+) plus sign to show (positive) , wow
Thanks you just saved me lots of $$$ very well explain .
This was a great video, thank you!
Would you be able to talk about how this might work with "solar ready" campers? What are the limitations with "solar ready" campers and what equipment would have to be replaced on the "solar ready" systems? Thanks again.
Great idea, I'll try to cover that soon.
Solar ready is a term that is not consistant across OEM's. This means many things. Some have dead end wiring that is helpful, but doesn't help with any of the components. The solar plug is simply an outlet with wires to the battery. You still need the panels and charge controller.
In my research of new campers that are marketed as having "Solar Prep", it often means that you can have as much solar as the third party vendor allows. Unfortunately, that usually means that you can't actually install much solar. The wiring included in a "Solar Prep" camper isn't enough to support the number of watts I would like to put in. I'll have to run new wiring to make that happen. Ideally, what I would like to see is 3/4" conduit run from the roof to where the batteries are located.
What system should I buy to avoid the usual Chinessium quality.
Spend a little more for it to last 10 years not fall apart after 3-4 years
Hey Jared, I'm going to take the plunge into fulltime rv'ing. I also plan to do a significant amount of boondocking. Is any of the solar equipment available at purchase worth it? Or, should I just plan on taking the basics (standard equipment) and purchase custom as I add the solar?
I would price out what the options are but usually it is more cost effective and a better system if you build it yourself.
Have you done anything on camera systems?
Not much just a backup/ rear view camera.
All About RV's
Ok, I didn’t know if there was a preference on brand names based on quality. Our trailer has Furrion equipment, but I have to buy the cameras and install. Oh my gosh they want a pretty penny for their stuff. I am trying to find compatible equipment at a lesser price, thanks
Hi! Total greenhorn here. I have 2016 Dynamax REV rv prewired by Zamp with plug in port. I have what they said are flood/wet batteries..new in February. Had a professional check polarity and make me an extension cord. I bought a Renogy 10p watt suitcase with 20 A attached weatherproof controller. Used it 2xs- fine. Then it showed a code- b01- which they say means battery < 3v. It can't be..since lights step and frig work fine. Any ideas?
What item is giving you the code? The RV? The charge controller? Contact the manufacturer.
I assume this is in addition to your victron controller. Are there any potential problems charging off both controllers?
There is no problem charging off 2 controllers, with both of them charging the batteries I’m still well under the max charge rate.
Thank you so much for this awesome informative video. It’s exactly the info I need. I currently have 440 amp hours of lead acid batteries (I am powering a 120v fridge and charging with converter plugged into 120v via 30 amp plug in and also isolator off alternator when bus is running) I haven’t installed solar panels yet but plan too. And when my batteries go, switch to lithium. I have a xantrex 2000w inverter and am not sure if it will work lithium batteries. I am very grateful for you sharing these products that I can use now with lead acid and later with lithium! Btw, how long is the 15% off discount for lion batteries good for?
Not sure how long the 15% will be good for, I just had an email that it’s the special they are running right now with the allaboutrvs code compared to the typical 10%
Where do you store the portable panels? Did you build a soft case?
I just slide them behind the couch.
That’s a good idea. I had just been storing them in the front cargo area when I traveled and they took up a lot of space. I don’t have a couch but I can put them in front of my bed and the wall. It’s not enough space to walk but enough for the panels. Thanks. 👍🏻
My Fleetwood RV came with a system on the roof. I want to add portable panels so when I am camping under trees I can put them out in the sun. Can I add these to the original system or do I need to change out or add to what I have.?
You can add to what you have. For simplicity, the portable panels would have their own solar charge controller.
I need to do an energy audit of our trailer to know how much battery we need. Suggestions please.
John Butler Go Power has excellent calculator to do it.
Purchase a kill-o-watt unit. Or you can google "rv power audit" and find tons of lists and spreadsheets to work from. A basic RV uses 15-40 amp hours per day depending on the size of the rig and the items you use. A larger RV could be 60-100 or more.
I’m in centralIndiana. Where do I find someone to do the install? Or Do you do that if someone is in your area?
Great info. Ty
Great info!!!
what size fuse to buy with this system? Thanks
I did a 10 amp inl-ine fuse for the panels since they were wired in series and a 30 amp fuse with 30 amp wire to the batteries to match the 30 amp charge controller. If you add more panels to this setup then you don't need to replace the fuse and wire up to 30 amps.
All About RV's Victron’s Smart Solar 75/15 controller seems to already have fuse so in additional fuse on cable to battery really needed?
Renogy didn't accept discount code at checkout.
Try it on an item that is regular price. I have seen where it gets blocked if you try it on a sale item.
It says code "AllAboutRVs" does not exist :( I was actually planning to buy a DC-DC charger.
The code is good for regular priced items. I saw the DC to DC charger was a free item deal of some kind. I just ordered a DC to DC charger and it worked then. I'll send them an email to see what is going with that. It's a little strange if anything in the cart is a special it will reject the code. I had to add one regular price item add the code and then the other items I needed.
@@AllAboutRVs Yea its putting some other item in my cart that I don't want. I can't delete it. :(
Jared, I never see you answer questions in comments...
I do answer some and wish I was able to answer all of them.
Thank You. :-)))) :-))))
You failed to show where you store these ?
I slide them behind the couch for now but might end up under the bed. Our storage on our RV is terrible
Sadly I have to report an error. Your Amazon link to the Solar Panel Wire takes you to the In-Line Fuse page. The link is identical for both.
Thanks for letting me know about that, I’ll fix it
I went to the web site link from your video. They replied with this link. lionenergy.com/products/400-watt-solar-panel-kit
Our 5th wheel came prepped for solar with a plug on the side of the trailer. I was told I could just "plug and go". Was I mislead and do I need all the components that you have mentioned? This was a great video and really simplified the solar issue for those of us who would like to go off grid sometimes! Thank you
You were kind of mislead. In order to use the plug, you would need a suitcase style set of panels that has the controller mounted on the panels. The system Jared made in the video is the best way to do it. Having the controller on my panels is the least efficient way and also risks damaging the controller due to weather. The controllers are not waterproof.
Great, informative video. But what does someone with a towable with limited space to mount a controller in their basement storage do? Not all of your subscribers have the extra storage spaces found in a 5th wheel. I've got with a Renogy suitcase that is totally self contained. Besides the controller being mounted on the back of the cells (200W suitcase), it comes with a carry bag.
I'm planning on building a slide in storage box to carry my panels in the back of our pickup until I decide to install PV on the trailer roof. At that point, I'll probably look to match the suitcase cells and move them, along with additional cells, to the roof.
I noticed you link to Lion Energy for lithium batteries. Since you use Battle Born, if I remember correctly, how you rate Lion Energy's UT1300's. And how do you feel they compare to Battle Born?