Bring a tarp for the extra soil. When digging, put the soil (and top plugs) on it to reduce the disturbance to the cache area. You can then carry it away from the cache site and redistribute it over a larger area afterwards. Tarps are light and packable. For the roots, bring a pair of side cutting pliers to cut them instead of beating up a hatchet. A multitool with a wood saw blade can be used as well for roots the pliers are too small for.
Pro Tip: put some toilet paper just above the cash (but under the dirt). If for some reason someone starts to dig, they may likely stop if it looks like someone took a crap there.
I dig for a cable installation company. A small crowbar wrapped with electrical tape is also nifty for trenching out a nice little cubby underground. Furthermore, keep an eye out for color coded spray paint, as they will tell you if there are any existing pipes and/or LIVE WIRES. Love the channel!
I just love how “real” you are. You have no problems admitting when you’ve made a mistake and you don’t edit it out so that we can actually see you’re a real human being. For that - I thank you. You are awesome !
This is the only stage of prepping that my husband will agree to do. Wish he would take this worlds shift that is quickly happening VERY seriously. Thank you for your information that I am learning & taking to heart.
For me, I base it on the 10 C's, and expand from there. I have a sharpening stone, fishing gear (hooks, line and sinkers), mylar blanket, contractor bags. I do the Sawyer Minis, because they filter much more water than the LifeStraw, and only cost a few dollars more. I have salt, tea bags, bouillon, and powdered electrolytes packets. Beans and rice (approximately 1 pound each). Extra cotton bandanas, socks, gloves and beanie (Heatlockers). Small, compact sewing kit with extra needles. Folding saw (Silkie or similar). Extra First-aid supplies. A flashlight, and a weather radio that has the hand crank so you can generate power if needed, and so that you don't have to worry about batteries running out. Soap flakes, etc. Basically, I have the majority of my caches set up to sustain me in the event my BOB is lost or unavailable, or I have lost the use of key parts of my kits. Face it, cr*p happens. A knife blade can break, circumstances can separate you from the supplies you were carrying, You may have to slip out in dead secrecy, with no way to get to your bag. Whatever. Having what you need to resupply completely could be the difference between making it or not. The key thing for me, other than being able to re-outfit myself if needed, is that I keep things that will expire to an absolute minimum.
I would thoroughly check the area for game cameras first. Then I would set up camp with a tent. Dig inside the tent (cut the bottom) and bury your stuff while inside so no one can see what you’re doing.
If you have to go to that much trouble, you're probably not in a remote enough area. Have you ever considered that you might be suffering from paranoia? You're really going to the extreme here.
I would worry more about satellite and infrared trackers, bring a space blanket to hide your body heat and leave your radio devices at home, then, dress as a bear or sasquatch, make surw you scat so that you can mark your territory and confuse and local hunters on finding out bears have a heavy corn diet.
Nah just thinking outside the box. No matter how remote, if you got there then someone else can too. Might as well just look like you’re camping / hiking and enjoying nature.
Another good thing about bringing a second Bucket along with you for removing the displaced dirt afterwards is that anyone who might have seen you in the area would see you carrying out what they would most likely assume to be the same bucket that you had carried in. Just stack the 2 Buckets together to carry in the beginning...
Put a backpack in the cache, take all of the items out of their original packaging to save space, swap the lifestraw for a Sawyer Mini (allows you to hook it up to a hydration bladder or just put filtered water into a container and it's smaller), add a jar of honey, a small twig stove, and a 100% cotton shemagh or at least a cotton bandana. Lastly, I'd tape up any place water could get into, just as an added precaution.
They Sawyer has the same problem as the Lifestraw. Paper filters are iffy if they freeze, ceramic ones are shattered, and there is no way to get all the moisture out even if it is fresh from the factory. And if you're worried about water getting in, epoxy with paint over it.
@@tenchraven ya, all non-electric water filters are gonna have some issue with freezing. It is what it is. And epoxy doesn't readily come off. Sure, maybe used it around the gamma lid adapter, but tape over the gamma thread seal would come off quickly and add an added layer of protection to that seal.
In Canada's climate I would recommend not burying the cache or not burying it completely. If you need to access it in winter and the ground is frozen solid it is going to be a real bitch to get to it. Also consider that you may not have proper tools to dig with especially in frozen ground. If you are accessing the cache you might not have much more then the clothes on your back. What I would recommend is to either put your cache in a brush pile or if you bury a bucket or sewer pipe to have the lid basically a ground level (Just moss and debris on top) so the bucket or pipe it oriented vertically and you don't have to actually dig up the whole thing to get to the lid and open it.
I would venture to say that there's a plus and a minus to both ideas when it comes to burying the cache. You are very correct in that you should keep in mind just how much the given environment can change and plan accordingly. Totally agree on that.
Prepping actually means being prepared. As a prepper you should have the proper tools with you & also should be prepared with adequate clothing. I've had the basic necessities in my truck for the last 40 yrs. The unprepared person you are describing I would personally describe as a victim.
A small fire, dig, repeat until you find it. Same way they dig graves in Siberia. Getting below the frost line is hard in Canada. But you want to get as deep as you can go.
@@charleswalter2902 The point of having bug out caches between you and your bug out point is because you are planning for SHTF and no fuel for your truck. If the roads haven't been blown up and there are still people selling fuel, the S hasn't HTF yet.
bringsdogtowork, that's true about the frost line as far as I know, too. However, that's pretty deep in Northern climates (like Canada). Like over 6 feet deep. I wonder what Canadian Prepper thinks about this?
Good point about the frost heave but I honestly think burying caches in our Canadian climate is a bad idea. The ground is frozen solid for 5-6 months a year. Imagine getting to your cache depleted and tired in the winter without a pick axe or heavy duty shovel and the ground is frozen solid. You would be screwed. I would hide it in a brush or rock pile. Or if you do decide to bury think of something like an ABS pipe vertical with the cap almost at ground level so you only need to get to the cap/lid. It would also allow you to continue to use the cache without re-digging it every time you wanted to add or take an item.
@@canadianrenegade39 *Very* good point regarding how frozen dirt can be solid as concrete during winter time! Definately gonna place mine under rocks instead. I guess you could place the cache at a level ground and then start fire above it to thaw the dirt, but that brings a lot of other problems with it.
I'd put everything into a backpack inside that container that way you can use the five gallon bucket to haul extra stuff around for gathering or water or whatever else you need. Also I would add a slingshot in there with some steel ammunition.
I saw a video on how to make a pocket slingshot with a larger gatorade bottle top cut off for the ring and cap that screws onto it. They used a latex balloon fitted over the ring and used the cap to screw balloon on tight. Perfect for steel ammo, rounded rocks, etc! I forget the name of the channel but the main guy passed away.
I always cut a square, or rectangle with the shovel, then use the shovel to cut horizontally underneath. This allows me to flip the top layer over. I then use an old dog food bag (or equivalent) to shovel the dirt I dig up. I put in my supplies, and carefully pack it as I put the dirt back in. Make sure it is packed good, then flip the top back over, and adjust as needed. I carry the bag of dirt out with me, and make sure I don’t leave any evidence that I was there. Great video!
Thanks, Lots of great Info in your channel. I always include one or more means to absorb moisture in the cache arrangement. Things like silica gel or drying clay or calcium chloride moisture absorbers. Also, if I need to hide for days, I like to include a pack of very fine “therapeutic” clay, and use the clay powder as a dry cleaning means of bathing (bath without water). The clay also protects the skin from sunburns; add a little charcoal powder to the clay and it prevents those bodily smells to became evident to animals and hunter dogs. By the way, charcoal and clay may be ingested in case of bad digestion or poisoning.
Great video, I would also suggest taking that same screw on lid bucket.Drill a 7/16 hole in the top of the bucket, and epoxy a 7/16 schraeder valve on it. We use them for air conditioning. Once the epoxy dries, you can put your items in, and use a vacume pump to pull all the air out of the bucket. And add an oxygen absorber. This way you will have successfully pulled a 30 inch vacume on the bucket ( no oxygen.). It will preserve the items inside for atleast 50 years or more.
Wouldn't the bucket crush without any air, the void? Should be filled completely with something else, light in weight. I buried mine bucket and filled the rest with send. everything was in zip bags and oxygen absorber. Yeah was crazy but worked and sealed with tar over a wire buried around the lid to get access to the tread of the bucket lid. Does make sense? Couple years later my son had took it out and everything was as new. Georgia weather.
Flashlight, batteries, silky saw, first aid kit (ifak), socks,shirt,pants , gloves, maybe even an extra pair of shoes. No matter what anyone caches away ALWAYS have the 5 core things... water purification, knife, light, fire starter, & first aid. Food should always be in your cache but, make sure it’s high protein & high calories! Depending on area , time of year, & specific needs for yourself. If you take ANY medications horde them now ! The water straw you have I personally have found major problems with. I would suggest the sawyer mini. It has never failed me where the survival straw has. I got cocsidia because the straw failed at removing that bacteria. Also a small tarp 6x8 or 10x12 just in case ! Camouflage is what I would use. Great video CP keep up the good work. Be safe & god bless.
Totally off subject, but only group that would understand.... went to mom's she's having hip surgery. I couldn't be with her in hospital. I reorganized her whole pantry and filled in all the holes. She now has food for at least six weeks.... she's home, haven't told her yet about the stashes under her beds 🤫🤣
When you remove compacted soil it will take up more volume than the space it originally occupied. A tarp is a better choice than a spare bucket. Dig deep enough to have at least half a meter of dirt over the item to be buried and put ALL displaced material on your tarp to minimize traces of excavation. When you're done you can take the displaced material to another location for dispersal and then you're only leaving the woods with a tarp, an axe, and a shovel. Nothing creepy about that at all.
Very important. While you’re packing your supplies, make sure to wipe everything clean to remove scents. Also wear nitrile gloves to pack them to make sure there are no scents. Wild animals have very acute sense of smell and they will dig up your caches. I’ve seen this happen with other burying of things.
I don't think a wipe down matter in this case. The Mio will explode the first winter when it freezes. I give it not more than three years before it either surfaces or cracks or both due to frost. This thing is getting looted by squirrels.
I live where there are a good number of bears. They are always digging for grubs small critters what they can find especially in the fall. Anything you can do to remove scent on the cache container would be good. Maybe some of the spray anti scent hunters use would work. Nitrile gloves would be good to use. The rebar driven into the ground at known distance and direction ie. due North would be a metal detector indicator & visual if camouflaged properly, I would be interested to hear any other ideas on anti-bear and location identifiers long & short term along with maps & GPS
+1 would even shutoff my phone before going into the back country. Tech companies store more data than you think and the other parties they might share that information with might not be the parties you would share that information.
I have 2 hard copies of map of USA and compass, big ones the truck drivers uses, not to mention other emergency supplies. I build even a generator in my tool box, you have no idea how many times saved my ... .folding shovel, multi tool box, air compressor, face/gas mask, 12v winch, water filters just to mention a few.
Nice! Helpful. Two suggestions. When I plant trees and shrubs etc that contain a rootball and I plan to backfill, I usually haul around a lightweight plastic tarp to either carry the extra dirt away or sling it in all directions to evenly distribute it as not to leave a trace. Also just my opinion. I would bury the cache with the lid taped with heavy duty tape to help weatherproof the seal where the lid and bucket 🪣 meet. Just some added protection. Side note I live on a hillside and I always worry about soil erosion. I’m always finding exposed tree roots and rocks as the years pass. Excessive rain speeds up erosion on my property. One bonus though is people tend not to traverse hillsides when flat land is available. Less traffic less chance of discovery. Path of least resistance. Thanks sir!
I have always been somewhat apprehensive to bury my gear for the fear of it being 'discovered' by others. However, you have convinced me. Now, all we need is a vid on how to stash your supplies in plain view; the 'nobody would have ever thought of looking there' places.
All ya have to do is, make it look like it’s supposed to be part of the property/area. But, put it in the most obvious of places. So, people would immediately think of it. But then dismiss it, just as quickly, thinking that “no one would do that, that’d be dumb.” . Obvious, out in the open, don’t go to it often, and none are ever the wiser.
@@Rebecca-1111 that’s genius! Never thought about that, it’d have to be in a place. That’d be too lazy to clean it. Otherwise it’d be found, through people trying to make the place livable(if it’s too smelly). Or, put it underneath the dirt, build the compost pile up around it. Lot of work to get to it then… hmmm. ?. Maybe. Put in airtight bin, and put into a septic system. Plenty of genius smelly places to store bug out supplies. (Autocorrect is mean)edit.
5 gal buckets fit in large decorative pots very well. Put rocks on the bottom, then the bucket, then a flat pcs of plastic with drainage holes put your dirt in, and a nice cacti to top it off. When you need your bucket just break the pot or push it over.
A couple of tips - 1. Best to take a tarp to put the dug dirt on 2. Use the shovel handle to ram the dirt back into the hole 3. Pick up a few of those discarded cans and leave a few in a couple of spots as decoys for people who may use a metal dectector in the area (under ground and on top) 4. Use excess dirt to make a pile a little distance away and mabe put some can under it. 5. Put a few small logs scattered over the cache. 6. Mark the spot on a hardcopy map as that technology may not be available when required.
@inc.opt.63 the purpose is to give yourself the highest advantage over others for purpose of longer survival, you can hide things anywhere not just in woods.
It looks like you could use a lot of dollar store preps for this kind of activity. Cheap you wont' be too sad if it disappears. Big question, Would you cycle these preps? Pull them after 5 years and see how they faired?
Very good tips. Thank you. Yes, I've already been thinking about this. I think you covered everything. Did you have a torch? Of course, any prepper could list lots of other things, but you are looking at essentials. Perhaps a small first aid pack? What happens if you lose your phone? I was going to use a step counting treasure map style. 1) Locate significant spot on road by Wood you will always remember. 2) Mark a tree, tie a large roll of string to the tree. 3) Walk in straight line best you can, checking back as you walk that the string is straight. 4) When deep enough and string runs out, pick your spot. You have counted the steps from the road, try round off to a easy remember number. Hide your cache. 5) Walk back, counting steps once more, reeling in the string. 6) Put that roll of string in your bug out back and black tape around it so you don't forget and cut some off. The GPS is obviously better, this is just a no frills way of remembering where you buried it. It's all seriously valued stuff to do. Think about it. We have a little time now. If you buy 12 months 20yr ration packs, Bury then strategically divided into 10 containers, you could dissappear with just a bug out bag and survive years with hunting combined ie fishing, small game, hidden cache. It makes perfect sense. Also, if you get robbed, or stuff gets stolen whilst you are on a hunting trip or patrol. It's not the end of the world, you can move to your next bug out location.
Bravo! Good one. If you are a serious prepper, with a good amount of cache, it is wise to seperate it in case of fire, natural calamity or theft. This negates your losses and leaves you with adequate goods remaining to survive on. If you are using a Gama Lid, then it's okay to inject a long life silicon gel around the seams, to ensure a higher degree of waterproofing. When burying the container, point it in a direction that best deflects water or sheds water. Putting a plastic bag over the lid area and tightly duct taping it sealed, then pointing it uphill, will acheive excellent or added water redirection. If you are dropping caches along a route to a permanent bug out location, the first cache should be all about survival food and water, because you should already have with you personal protection and not be desperately hoping to dig it up. I would put in my first hidden cache, 1)water, that is individually packaged in their own packs and 2) Ration Bars and a few quick fix meal packs. Having a Life Straw with no natural water source, is completely useless. A 3) fire starting kit, 4) a breakdown saw, 5) thermal underwear, wool socks, gloves, cap sweater or hoody and a blanket. If it's getting cold, you can wear the blanket like a cape, or cut a slash into the center and make it into a field expedient pocho. Note: Having a good, bushcraft backup 7) knife isn't a bad idea. Prefabricating 8) backpack or single band quick strap(s) for the bucket and storing them inside, which will greatly improve your ability to land cruise. Having a 9) folding shovel is smart, because you will need it for any further containers you plan on digging up, because your first one will most likely be done by hand. 10) a map of the area you think you will mostly be bugging into. 11) Cordage. 12) Breakdown, compact survival bow with breakdown arrows. 13) Stainless steel cup or mug. Outside the container I would bury 14) camouflage tarpaulin. If it rains, the tarp can be repurposed as a rain coat, by simply draping it over your body and riding out the storm and then serve to either be used as a barrier between body and nature or as a roof over your shelter. Because you do not know if the first location's container will even be there, the second container should contain the exact same contents, as it would be unlikely that both be discovered and stolen/taken, as it would be in an even more remote location. Nearest to your designed bugout location, should the heaviest items be buried. For example: a hatchet, cookware, breakdown stove, spare boots, goggles, helmet, blade to be affixed to a spear pole, etc. Addendum: There is no guarantees that sufficient wildlife will present itself to provide an adequate and consistent protein source. Traipsing into the wild, is an extremely dangerous choice to make and should only be used as a last choice and temporary solution to an immediate life-threatening emergency. Keep in mind, that during a bahooky hits the Wuki situation, what drove you into the wilderness, will drive others there also; which means, you won't be safe, but vulnerable. Turn your home into a castle and take your last stand there. Out.
Might want to check the weather before and bury it right before a rain. When it rains, it can settle down the dirt more. You might have to throw on more dirt or debris after the rain. But I'd check on it afterwards. Also the rain will wash away some of the dirt around it so it blends better.
An easier concealment option (on level ground) is to build a fire ring and fire on top, and leave some empty cans behind. The fire ring will help with finding the exact spot again.
Dude you rock. I watched your videos a lot in 2020 and I "acted very accordingly". I fell back for a while. Now that inflation is starting and could possibly turn into hyperinflation, it's time for me/us to "act accordingly". Keep up the good work brother. You are one of the best at this.
One thing about the water flavor: in a bug-out situation, you may not be able to stop and make coffee, and caffeine-withdrawal headaches are horrible. Mio and other water flavor providers do make caffeinated ones. They say Energy on the bottle. Might be good to have these and uncaffeinated, depending on circumstances.
I have one little trick that we used to use when I was surveying. We would bury our property corners sometimes. Before you start digging stretch a string between four trees if you can find the four trees and where they intersect that's where you dig your hole but you're going to need to mark the trees that you used so just put a groove all the way around it about the size of a pencil or less or use the four corners north south east west anyway you can figure out how to run your string so that it will intersect the same place each time that's what you do it really does work. Y'all have a great day and stay safe and keep your powder dry!
Not a good idea. The living part of the tree (the cambium) is the soft green layer immediately underneath the bark and its cells divide and produce new sapwood to the inside and new bark to the outside. The tree expands in diameter as it produces new sapwood annual rings, so the bark cracks as it stretches and the cambium produces new bark to the outside - hence the rough nature of the bark of many trees. If you cut a groove into the bark and damage the cambium then you kill it and it stops working. The effect is to damage the sapwood at that point and upward flow of water and downward flow of sugars from the leaves are both interrupted and the tree dies.
@@oneperson5760 you don't put a ring all the way around you only put it part way around facing the hole I know not to do it all the way around it would kill it
Take a piece of re-bar and hammer it in 2, 3 or 4m from your cache in a specific direction. Re-bar blends in well, unless you are specifically looking for it, but being able to confirm a marker before you start digging will save you a lot of work.
I would definitely use a couple landmarks and measure it with from the point of burial. I would not just rely on one means of finding it like that program. And you need to make sure that the landmark will still be there in whatever number of years.
Don't need tarp like others suggest. Bring contractor bag, heavy duty. Turn it inside out, fill with soil and carry it away, then turn it back in, put bucket in, seal it and burry it
Here up north we should hope for SHTF in the summer. Digging these things up from under four feet of snow and the same with frozen ground...you'll need dynamite! :)
@@luddechamp You must not realize that there are different regions of Canada. Canadian Prepper is located in Martensville, SK, Canada. That is hardly an arctic environment.
I'd add a tarp (8'x12' or so), an old pot w/ lid, fork/spoon, snare wire, fish line/hooks (if close to water), Gauze, scissors and a P-38 can opener. A Bic lighter is so small and cheap I'd add one anyway.
"The water your going to drink, even if you filter it, is probably going to taste like ass" 🤣 Thank you for all the valuable information you give to us ❤ Edit: Omg! Thank you for the heart, CP! Also thank you to ya'll for the likes 🤗 Happy prepping and much love to ya'll!
Unfortunately, when comments are edited, they lose the heart reaction from the content creator. This might seem terrible, but it is an intentional feature by youtube. Otherwise, somebody could make a great comment, get a heart, then edit their comment to something extremely abusive - and it would appear that the creator has endorsed it. As usual, the trolls are why we can't have nice things!
I actually added an SD card of all my important family photos and videos in case I had to leave home quickly. I may not be able to see them but I have them for whenever I find a laptop somewhere.
CANADIAN PREPPER........... I love this idea , but I want to give you a tip about making sure you don’t leave anything behind that would disclose where you put your stash !!!! Being a Arborist I know that cutting into major roots / buttress roots COULD kill certain branches that the roots supported possibly disclosing the area where you buried your stash !!! NOW , this all depends on the specie of tree !!! Not all trees are like this !! As an example I have two Carrotwood trees ( Cupaniopsis anacardioides ) in my back yard , I wanted to plant some plants around the trunk not to close but have a nice 3 foot ornamental bed going around the tree , In order for me to get SOME of the plants in the ground I had to cut some decent size roots ( unexperienced I was about trees at that time ) over in a coarse of a year two major branches of the tree died bringing attention to the area that I dug in !!! The branches that died was on the same side where I cut those roots !!!!!!! NOW , anyone who is experienced in Horticulture knows if there is no physical signs of insects/ damage caused by insects or diseases that there is something wrong with its root system thus giving people the reason to poke around the ground !!!!! DO YOU GET WHERE IM GETTING AT ????? SO, word to the wise of you want to dig around trees don’t cut into major roots !! Or at least learn about the trees around you if you could get away with cutting into their roots without causing any significant damage!!!!! HOPE THIS WAS A HELPFUL TIP !!! God Bless !!!
Please add - do not put a lot of wt at the bottom of big trees which people love to do - a rock garden around the bottom - small rocks okay - but not big ones.
I was thinking that as he was Hacking away. His whole digging seemed noobish. 🤔 idk maybe just me but looked like this was his first time looking for a cashe drop and being discrete about it.
How many Horticulturist are going to be out in the middle of now where looking for a cashe with maybe a $ hundred or two worth of supplies? Those wooded areas are usually pretty big and finding or noticing a few natural dead or man man dead branches branches would be most challenging. The chance of someone noticing and digging around for a possible cashe is nearly zero.
It's pretty simple how to make your cache undetectable with the right knowledge, I learned modern trenches in War they scoop all of the dirt onto a tarp and then drag off the tarp somewhere to dispose of the dirt, making another area look suspicious and your area completely level
A few things I would add, Zippo(unfilled) flints and large lighter fluid vacuum sealed, on top of the firesteel. I would take a Sawyer mini or gravity filter over a lifestraw. Back flush capable, it allows you to inline filter off a bladder as well. I like this over Lifestraw when you have to put face near the ground or contaminat a drinking vessel. For water also Playtpus 1-2lt roll up water bags take up no space and work well. The duct tape may fail due to heat or cold over years. A small rifle/pack size piece of camo netting would would well for your bucket but also a cover for gear in cold camp. Adding a pair of boxers, 2 pairs of socks, gloves and sunglasses would be valuable to you, also vacuum sealed bug spray and sunscreen might be a nice addition. I've used 10 year expired Deep Wood's OFF that worked just fine, but sealed to prevent leaking. Placed at the lowest part of the bucket. Biggest thing I think you're missing is medical supplies. Blisters care, DripDrop ORS packets, bandages, gauze, Ace bandages, SAM splint, and other basics. Also Tourniquet or 2, IFAK, and even just basic OTC meds. While less than ideal the meds will last much longer than expiration in cool dark places. If things went bad enough you're opening that cache you need to figure you may be in a bad way with injuries or exhausted. If that's the case you will want some meds and a way to patch up some wounds or sprains. This is something that you need to factor with digging it up. With a small shovel and needing to dig with a broken finger or 2, sprained ankle or twisted knee, you're going to be miserable getting this out. Even worse if ground is frozen. All things considered it's better than no gear so you want to factor in caring for those injuries and swelling. Having a small cheap shovel/trowel painted, hidden above eye level near by could be a life saver too. Also you'll know that you are near by. I like the idea of the app, but I personally wouldn't mark my direct location. If you're moving and lose that device now someone can access your supplies,primary BOL, and worst worst of all. People you love if you're using this for Nav to family. I would mark say cache is way point X. But really X is a boulder or large tree. Now know all caches will be 10 steps heel to toe directly north, and 10 steps east heel toe. At X just having a small discreet marking making a line or two showing north will save you if you lost all gear and your compass backup is inside. Knowing the location and unlikely to be moved landmarks is a must. In one year we cached food in the mountains, took pics and marked it. 1 year later from rain and falling trees the terrain changed noticeably and it took hours to find with multiple people. Depending on season and severity of weather it is very easy to lose a cache.
I'd put in another pair of quality socks and maybe something to protect from blisters..especially if you have to travel another long distance to get to desired destination or another cache..
In the boreal forest, you'd better have a pick also to loosen the soil before digging. It's impossible to dig a hole here in the Newfoundland forest without a pick.
Good video! After reading a lot of the comments I see that most of the good advice has been given. I will add only two more: 1) after the top sod plug has been removed and set aside, the rest of the removed soil should be separated into thirds in three separate piles, top portion, middle portion, and bottom portion. Once the cache tube is in place only the top portion of soil is used to cover the tube. It’s a great idea to place random pieces of metallic trash around the area at different levels in the soil. Then, using your poncho or a tarp carry the remaining soil to either a discard location (100m to 300m distance MINIMUM from the cache location) or hide it for repacking the cache location once the cache tube is removed. 2. Always choose a cache site that is at least 100m to 300m away from linear danger areas (roads, trails, etc.). Theoretically, anyway! :) 2.
I can tell Nate hasn't done a lot of long-distance backpacking. Don't get me wrong, love his work, but wow. My Pur ceramic water filter good to 0.1 microns, makes water absolutely perfect. I've backpacked 1000's of miles with it. This is Basic stuff.
I got lucky contractors working on an expansion at work had a lot of 12 inch schedule 40 pipe pieces 48 inches long spent 60 dollars on caps was able to make 16 waterproof containers. Something important to do is when you seal the container it's a good idea to water test it before stashing it. Great video C.P.
Disagree, would bury it vertical, smaller but deeper hole, a pillar is strong, on its side, weight could pop lid off, when digging out, first thing you get to is lid, you will be straight into contents.
Spot on - and take a piece of ply or metal sheet to save the lid giving way under a foot or having, you accidentally put a hole in a useful sealed bucket while digging it up.
When you dig deep enough, the soil around the a horizontal bucket or even a tunnel will spread the weight evenly and much better than his shallow hole. I didn't think of burying horizontal at first, but I think CP has a great point if it's deep enough. I'd slightly slope it down towards the lid end, in case any water table raises, it has a better chance of draining out. Someone else mentioned getting below frost grade as well.
Well, for cutting top layer of soil i used to use certain type of DIY machete. It’s wide at the end and has bullet type point, so it’s good for digging. We don’t have survival buckets here, so we improvise and make containers out of PVC pipes. I would avoid putting metallic objects into the container, it helps to hide your cache from treasure hunters with metal detectors. Long term dry food , rope, tarp, maybe tablets for water purification, map. At least one extra jacket or warm shirt. If there are trees around - lightweight hammock can be good option to avoid sleeping on the ground. Depends on evironment
Casual conversation about the general idea of prepping benign things like food got my buddy red flagged and swatted by his lib neighbors. So, yeah, no thanks. I'm leaving the cities. If they want to stay and watch their children get killed and eaten that's their business.
Post hole diggers, and 4 to 6 inch PVC pipe, seal the bottom and use the screw on cap for the top, works great, add several desiccant packs, depends on what you are burying
@@MysteStorm if your contents have any metal,alumjnum foil ect! Can easily be found with a detector... even a small staple will sound off!!! No metal of any kind.. Even a cheap detector will find it... keep those things in seperate areas if possible...
I go out everyday detecting. I mostly look for coins. Unless I was looking for caches I would never dig up something real big. Evenputting a bunch of metal screws and nails out won't help. I can cancel them out.
@@soniavos8065 i guess i should of said " US GOLD NUGGET PROSPECTORS" HA . yeah, metal can be cancelled out for sure.... and if your not looking for a cache... you may have just missed that Ammo Box full of coins you ignored! ect... But you also make a really good point also!! . that, maybe metal is ok to store in.. it would make it easier for you to find your stash.. cause you know the area you put it... i guess, just dont stash in Known Gold Producing areas..
In that case, the bucket handle is more than big enough to pick up, as is the knife. Think about it, a cheap metal detector can find a pure copper penny half a meter down. Unless you go completely non metallic, someone with a detector will find it. But worrying about a random yahoo with a metal detector wandering is only an issue if you picked a really lousy site or they have a warrant and a really eager to find EVERYTHING. Think smart, and it's down there with "but what if I'm found by bigfoot"
Your main cache should be AT your bugout locations, plural because you should have a plan B and C. Also, most of your viewers are in the US, right? So include at least one firearm and ammunition. The gun should be wrapped up like a mummy and enclosed in a sealed Mylar bag with 02 absorber added. One item I thought it was important to include in a cache along my bug-out route is socks. If you are traveling on foot, your feet will welcome a change of socks after a few days. You may sustain injuries along the way, even if only from walking enough to experience joint pain or blisters. Ibuprofen and antibiotic ointment should be in your backpack but it wouldn't hurt to throw some into your cache as well.
@@stevehouseholder7150 Oxidation (rust) requires oxygen so either one will work. Preppers tend to have O2 absorbers readily available for food storage.
I understand Jim and that is a good point. Not disagreeing with that. I was just simply saying based off what is being cached, my 2 cents is that silica would be better. O2 absorbers with silica doesn't work because what one gets rid of the other needs to activate. Since we are talking about metal (gun).. Same as storing ammo.. Moisture is worse than oxygen. But again, I totally get what you're saying and wanted to mention the silica for moisture purposes. I'm not saying you're totally wrong (even though after reading how I replied.. That's pretty much what I did..oops.. Ha!)
Silica will also help with the thing you mentioned...socks.. Help keep them dry. O2 absorbers won't do that. I do agree with the things you said though. Good advice for sure!
Use to hand dig 32" down for cremation vaults at a cemetery with different soils where a pick axe, (longest tip you can get) and Garden Claw, (4 prong T-handle) came in handy to loosen soil when running into hard pan. Deep as you can with pick axe then switch to Garden weasel for remainder. The bigger the width/length of hole you start with the more leverage you'll have for scooping dirt out with shovel on the way down. That dirt is sand...Nice. Rain might settle and "imprint" after that backfill so double check or tamp for less settling.
Hmmm. I wonder if you were to take a cemetary plot of a relative that was cremated and use the rest of the plot for a survival cache. Likely not a log of people metal detecting there or willing to go there even in shtf...
In a more urban area, I include a pair of 8" bolt cutters to cut chain link fence or lock hasps. They're light enough and can be used for a wide range of tasks. They wont cut most lock shackles, but they will cut the hasp.
If you have some land, all the better to hide it on. I would suggest putting some more stuff inside to take up the airspace. If someone were to step on it, they might feel it give a little. Maybe a piece of flat rock would do the trick. Good suggestion. I would also add some sort of lighting device. I didn't catch if you had one in there. Throw in some military light sticks, maybe a couple of candles too would be good. What about a hat and some handkerchiefs or field dressings? That would also take up some of that space.
I enjoyed this video, I enjoyed that you learned from and made plans to address those issues in the future. I think I would add a small brown tarp, socks and a few medical supplies. Maybe even a couple small pieces of leather to use as insoles for your boots.
If you don't know how to make European style foot wraps to use instead of socks I'd recommend looking into it. If done right they work better than socks in most regards, blisters, etc, and can be made from any long narrow strip of cloth. Used to be made from pieces of dead enemy soldiers uniforms while in the field. It's a good option to have.
Another reason the idea is absurd and counterproductive to your chances of survival in an SHTF scenario. Never mind trying to find and get oo your cache in a foot or more of snow.
Urban and suburban living makes it a real challenge to do these types of preps. I don’t know if the place I plant my cache will even be accessible so how do you choose what’s the best strategy?
Put it in a unique place that you CAN access when you bug out becuz otherwise its just sitting resources . But also understand there is a chance that someone or something may discover it.
Best strategy, don't even think about burying a cache. Instead build a survival network in strategic places. Bargain to exchange survival items and skills in SHTF times. Baring that renting a storage facility if you can't store survival supplies on your property and hunker down if possible rather than bug out.
Maybe I missed it in the video, but I think you could squeeze some first aid gear in there with everything else. Also, I just started thinkging... Maybe I should grab some cheap superglue for cache build. I mean, it wont last 25 years, but I would think it would outlive it's stated shelf-life (I think 12-15 mo) if unopened and in that type of environment. I don't know much about superglue, it probably doesn't do well with freezing temps, depending on where you live, but if you have a gash that needs a sealin' it's a blessing. Thnaks for the knowledge!
Thrown still hot from the dryer into a Mylar bag with a desiccant and then vacuum seal that. Otherwise you will have mold. This entire cache has moisture issues, why add another one?
@@tenchraven Especially laying the bucket on it's side unless sealed on bottom outside part of the snap on lid .And Atmospheric changes in the weather can cause condensation inside the bucket to form .
Yo Canada. Alabama here. Your videos are timely and valid. Most folk don't know this stuff. Didn't take the time to learn. Who's sorry now? Who's laughing and pointing fingers? 6" pvc pipe is great for most rifles.
Just something that came to my mind as you mentioned the route to a bugout location. Should you avoid gas stations in a shtf situation? Because I can imagine these to be a sweet spot for an ambush for everyone with guns and no hesitations to shoot anyone coming for fuel to steal their stuff.
Anywhere that has food, water, supplies, medicine, and gas will get hit by everyone immediately after SHTF, and with chaos and violence. Avoid the highways, known congested areas, and cities, take the not so well known route out of town, like old roads, trails, and railways. Avoid gas stations at all costs, they are a sweet spot because of everything's dependence on gas, people will ambush there and never take your vehicle there if you need gas, get the gas by hand and stay out of sight going away and coming too, as in don't take the streets, move between homes, yards and forests. y the goal of survival is you want to see people before they see you, you always check something out as in get the lay of the land before you go into high populated areas or where people could be and if you see or hear something that doesn't feel right or looks off go with your gut and leave. hope this helps.
If I remember correct - Lifestraw does not tolerate cold temperatures and may not work after that. This is why they recommend putting Lifestraw in the jackets inside pocket and close to body heat, not inside backpack during the winter - depends, how cold the ground will get.
I've heard countless stories of life straws failing the first time someone tries to use it. Test first once you buy it before storing. Same goes for all prep gear. I prefer Sawyer mini filter, but do have both.
Store unused ones. As for failure, they were made cheaply for third world countries not for hikers. There have been interesting things made to help third world peoples and some hit the American market and some don't.
@@canadafree2087 In a SHTF situation - we have more then one option ... one would be Lifestraw, but we preppers can get by without it also, using natural materials
Unless I missed it I didn't see any type of shelter in your supplies. Poncho Maybe but if at all possible something to make a covering for a makeshift shelter if you have to be in the woods without any form of transportation near by. Tarps. Even the cheap ones at dollar tree would help keep you dry. Just a thought.
Anyone who buries a cache like this needs to accept the fact that they may lose it. There could be logging activity which uproots and exposes your cache, which the logging crew would then examine, and if logged, you'd be disoriented on the visual markers for finding your cache. Also, the property could change hands from public to private, or be inaccessible. Also, I wouldn't use anything electronic or connected to the internet to log where your cache is. So much stuff gets hacked nowadays, you can't count on that info remaining confidential. But that's a great point about bringing a bucket or a way to deal with the displaced dirt from the digging. Thanks for the vid! Great content, as always.
Its important to store food separate from other supplies as animals are really good at digging stuff up They'll try to dig up food, but they will not mess with non-food supplies. ALSO they go after leather like it is food also and will eat it. BE SURE to keep leather sheaths and belts etc. stored separate from non leather sheaths and items.
The "Dirt / volume displacement" @ 15:16. You are going to thing this is crazy but if you bury it on the new moon, you will have less dirt to dispose of. I was a landscaper and we would try to plant large trees around the full moon so we would have more than enough dirt to create the "water collars" without having to bring in additional dirt. Experiment with it. I don't know why it is a thing, but it is.
G'day Nate , one thing I would include is a small first aid kit and a small sewing kit with a few buttons and needles and a pair of decent scissors. As for the concealment, I would give myself a backup for finding the cache. Something like a small marker. But I would have the marker maybe ten steps away. This is just a suggestion. The placing of the marker would be lined up with maybe a distinctive rock, tree or other landmark feature that only YOU think is memorable.
UK, Germany, China, Lebanon and now India looking at energy crises and coal shortages. Very relevant advice from this channel. The world seems to be on a precipice
Good one! My primary concern would be moisture infiltration over time. Finding the cache years later could be challenging. The woods can change significantly as trees grow and vegetation gets reestablished. Someone mentioned rebar in the comments. Great idea, you could find the rebar with a metal detector. Set the rebar a know distance and direction from your cache to is in relocating it. 👍
A suggestion and another option to explore is urban/sub-urban cache, which you dont need to dig but hide your cache well with the surrounding. For example, a car junk yard where you have access to legally, a neglected corner of a industrial storage area, etc. As long as you can verify it is secured where it is at, hiding rather than burying may be a better option. Coz burying in urban environment may not be an option for many living in the concrete jungle.
Many good ideas and other considerations here. Thank you all. A can opener in case you forage some canned food. A multi tool or p38 are antiquated but I carried an opener for 28 years and everyone borrowed it until they brought their own. I never enter the woods without ANVIL pruning shears. Briars, kindling and rope cutting. Dig with a maddox, shovel with a shovel. Maddox is natural root cutter especially with ax blade on the back. Good frozen ground cutter. Hide in hollow tree ? A bucket in compression is stronger than on its side in this case. A plywood cover bigger than barrel diameter also helps.
please correct me if I am wrong , but if you bring your phone with you when you create your cache, would it be easily tracked by the people your worried about? I am curious about this.
You should bring a “tamping stick” my grandfather taught me when doing fence posts. Don’t buy one, use an old shovel handle from a long shovel. Don’t just walk on it to pack the ground. The stick packs it in better than your feet. Great video!
You could put a glass jar inside and fill it with cotton ball a small jar of Vaseline and matches if you have to make more than one cash . That stuff gets expensive to leave in the ground .use a canning jar they are good later for heating up food .i would add some extra cloths and definitely a pot for boiling water.maybe some coffee filters so you can strain the water first save the filter on you water straw.but I think we could set and think of all kind of things we could do differently. You keep up the good work it keeps us thinking .
Bring a tarp for the extra soil. When digging, put the soil (and top plugs) on it to reduce the disturbance to the cache area. You can then carry it away from the cache site and redistribute it over a larger area afterwards. Tarps are light and packable. For the roots, bring a pair of side cutting pliers to cut them instead of beating up a hatchet. A multitool with a wood saw blade can be used as well for roots the pliers are too small for.
Good thinking.
Okay, was going to say that about the tarp. Excellent ideas.
That is good.
Tarps make for a quick trapper shack. Thanks
A tarp and extra buckets for the soil is extremely important. As for the roots, a hatchet is fine. Include a file in the cache to sharpen it with.
Pro Tip: put some toilet paper just above the cash (but under the dirt). If for some reason someone starts to dig, they may likely stop if it looks like someone took a crap there.
Toilet paper dissolves almost instantly after even slight moisture exposure.
@@jtnoodle By that time, the soil would have settled enough you wouldn't be able se any disturbance in the soil...
You could put real crap in a sealed bag with the toilet paper so they get the full experience if they dig there.
@@John-100 You know your shit!
Good idea, some thinking folks still out there.
I dig for a cable installation company. A small crowbar wrapped with electrical tape is also nifty for trenching out a nice little cubby underground. Furthermore, keep an eye out for color coded spray paint, as they will tell you if there are any existing pipes and/or LIVE WIRES. Love the channel!
Do you wrap it with electrical tape to thwart electric shock?
Thank you 🙏🏽
I just love how “real” you are. You have no problems admitting when you’ve made a mistake and you don’t edit it out so that we can actually see you’re a real human being. For that - I thank you. You are awesome !
This is the most intelligent prepper channel i've seen. And these guys are funny too. They face harsh reality with finesse & hunor. Subbed ❤
Learn as you go and share with others, who may be motivated to come up with a few other ideas as well.
True. Just a sign of intelligence. Of someone learning and being cool at the same time. The best channel out there
This is the only stage of prepping that my husband will agree to do. Wish he would take this worlds shift that is quickly happening VERY seriously. Thank you for your information that I am learning & taking to heart.
So, you do what you can and he will be glad. As a woman, we just gotta do what we gotta do to take care of the family.
@@carollyngillespie3860 As a prepper. Gender has zero to do with it.
Wish my wife would even do that much lol
Erforscher1 Seriously?!!! She’s the crazy one!! Lol
@@Erforscher1 WTH? Can you give more of a story to this, please?
For me, I base it on the 10 C's, and expand from there. I have a sharpening stone, fishing gear (hooks, line and sinkers), mylar blanket, contractor bags. I do the Sawyer Minis, because they filter much more water than the LifeStraw, and only cost a few dollars more. I have salt, tea bags, bouillon, and powdered electrolytes packets. Beans and rice (approximately 1 pound each). Extra cotton bandanas, socks, gloves and beanie (Heatlockers). Small, compact sewing kit with extra needles. Folding saw (Silkie or similar). Extra First-aid supplies. A flashlight, and a weather radio that has the hand crank so you can generate power if needed, and so that you don't have to worry about batteries running out. Soap flakes, etc.
Basically, I have the majority of my caches set up to sustain me in the event my BOB is lost or unavailable, or I have lost the use of key parts of my kits. Face it, cr*p happens. A knife blade can break, circumstances can separate you from the supplies you were carrying, You may have to slip out in dead secrecy, with no way to get to your bag. Whatever. Having what you need to resupply completely could be the difference between making it or not.
The key thing for me, other than being able to re-outfit myself if needed, is that I keep things that will expire to an absolute minimum.
What thickness is your Contractor bag’s?
Get the one that is 3 mil thick@@venetiakelley
@@philbertshevitz3113 Thank you
I would thoroughly check the area for game cameras first. Then I would set up camp with a tent. Dig inside the tent (cut the bottom) and bury your stuff while inside so no one can see what you’re doing.
creative move
It's very suspicious pitching a tent on a slope like that
If you have to go to that much trouble, you're probably not in a remote enough area. Have you ever considered that you might be suffering from paranoia? You're really going to the extreme here.
I would worry more about satellite and infrared trackers, bring a space blanket to hide your body heat and leave your radio devices at home, then, dress as a bear or sasquatch, make surw you scat so that you can mark your territory and confuse and local hunters on finding out bears have a heavy corn diet.
Nah just thinking outside the box. No matter how remote, if you got there then someone else can too. Might as well just look like you’re camping / hiking and enjoying nature.
I started prepping 7 years ago, most of my friends and family thought I was nuts. They have a different tune now.
I am from poland but i am watching you you are best youtuber i ve ever seen
I do hope you are doing well with the state of affairs! 🥰🥰
Another good thing about bringing a second Bucket along with you for removing the displaced dirt afterwards is that anyone who might have seen you in the area would see you carrying out what they would most likely assume to be the same bucket that you had carried in. Just stack the 2 Buckets together to carry in the beginning...
Put a backpack in the cache, take all of the items out of their original packaging to save space, swap the lifestraw for a Sawyer Mini (allows you to hook it up to a hydration bladder or just put filtered water into a container and it's smaller), add a jar of honey, a small twig stove, and a 100% cotton shemagh or at least a cotton bandana. Lastly, I'd tape up any place water could get into, just as an added precaution.
Excellent advice
They Sawyer has the same problem as the Lifestraw. Paper filters are iffy if they freeze, ceramic ones are shattered, and there is no way to get all the moisture out even if it is fresh from the factory. And if you're worried about water getting in, epoxy with paint over it.
@@tenchraven ya, all non-electric water filters are gonna have some issue with freezing. It is what it is. And epoxy doesn't readily come off. Sure, maybe used it around the gamma lid adapter, but tape over the gamma thread seal would come off quickly and add an added layer of protection to that seal.
Congratulations you just fed a Bear
@@TheCoolwhipped true. Some water filters like the sawyer don't like the cold. Important to insulate them.
In Canada's climate I would recommend not burying the cache or not burying it completely. If you need to access it in winter and the ground is frozen solid it is going to be a real bitch to get to it. Also consider that you may not have proper tools to dig with especially in frozen ground. If you are accessing the cache you might not have much more then the clothes on your back.
What I would recommend is to either put your cache in a brush pile or if you bury a bucket or sewer pipe to have the lid basically a ground level (Just moss and debris on top) so the bucket or pipe it oriented vertically and you don't have to actually dig up the whole thing to get to the lid and open it.
Excellent point.
I would venture to say that there's a plus and a minus to both ideas when it comes to burying the cache. You are very correct in that you should keep in mind just how much the given environment can change and plan accordingly. Totally agree on that.
Prepping actually means being prepared. As a prepper you should have the proper tools with you & also should be prepared with adequate clothing. I've had the basic necessities in my truck for the last 40 yrs. The unprepared person you are describing I would personally describe as a victim.
A small fire, dig, repeat until you find it. Same way they dig graves in Siberia.
Getting below the frost line is hard in Canada. But you want to get as deep as you can go.
@@charleswalter2902 The point of having bug out caches between you and your bug out point is because you are planning for SHTF and no fuel for your truck.
If the roads haven't been blown up and there are still people selling fuel, the S hasn't HTF yet.
Recommend you bury caches below the frost line. Caches buried above the frost line can pitch upward from frost heave.
Smart
bringsdogtowork, that's true about the frost line as far as I know, too. However, that's pretty deep in Northern climates (like Canada). Like over 6 feet deep. I wonder what Canadian Prepper thinks about this?
Good point about the frost heave but I honestly think burying caches in our Canadian climate is a bad idea. The ground is frozen solid for 5-6 months a year. Imagine getting to your cache depleted and tired in the winter without a pick axe or heavy duty shovel and the ground is frozen solid. You would be screwed.
I would hide it in a brush or rock pile. Or if you do decide to bury think of something like an ABS pipe vertical with the cap almost at ground level so you only need to get to the cap/lid. It would also allow you to continue to use the cache without re-digging it every time you wanted to add or take an item.
@@canadianrenegade39 *Very* good point regarding how frozen dirt can be solid as concrete during winter time!
Definately gonna place mine under rocks instead.
I guess you could place the cache at a level ground and then start fire above it to thaw the dirt, but that brings a lot of other problems with it.
Try to find a sand pit for northern climates.
I'd put everything into a backpack inside that container that way you can use the five gallon bucket to haul extra stuff around for gathering or water or whatever else you need. Also I would add a slingshot in there with some steel ammunition.
Or use as a toilet if need be
I saw a video on how to make a pocket slingshot with a larger gatorade bottle top cut off for the ring and cap that screws onto it. They used a latex balloon fitted over the ring and used the cap to screw balloon on tight. Perfect for steel ammo, rounded rocks, etc! I forget the name of the channel but the main guy passed away.
I always cut a square, or rectangle with the shovel, then use the shovel to cut horizontally underneath. This allows me to flip the top layer over. I then use an old dog food bag (or equivalent) to shovel the dirt I dig up. I put in my supplies, and carefully pack it as I put the dirt back in. Make sure it is packed good, then flip the top back over, and adjust as needed. I carry the bag of dirt out with me, and make sure I don’t leave any evidence that I was there. Great video!
Old mine layers tricks!
Thanks, Lots of great Info in your channel. I always include one or more means to absorb moisture in the cache arrangement. Things like silica gel or drying clay or calcium chloride moisture absorbers. Also, if I need to hide for days, I like to include a pack of very fine “therapeutic” clay, and use the clay powder as a dry cleaning means of bathing (bath without water). The clay also protects the skin from sunburns; add a little charcoal powder to the clay and it prevents those bodily smells to became evident to animals and hunter dogs. By the way, charcoal and clay may be ingested in case of bad digestion or poisoning.
Wow awesome. Thanks!
"Disclaimer... we are not burying anything that is illegal here..... today" 😉😉 not today and not in this particular bucket. 🤐
Love your videos.
That was my favorite part!🥴
It's even funnier when you read this before he actually said it.
Hahhaha
Great video, I would also suggest taking that same screw on lid bucket.Drill a 7/16 hole in the top of the bucket, and epoxy a 7/16 schraeder valve on it. We use them for air conditioning. Once the epoxy dries, you can put your items in, and use a vacume pump to pull all the air out of the bucket. And add an oxygen absorber. This way you will have successfully pulled a 30 inch vacume on the bucket ( no oxygen.). It will preserve the items inside for atleast 50 years or more.
Good stuff
I wonder if the bucket will last 50 years. -Or us for that matter.
If you are fortunate enough to have access to a vacuum pump, most people can't afford or don't have the access to them. Never the less good Idea
@@TheTdub Use a bicycle pump with the seal reversed, to pump the air out.
Wouldn't the bucket crush without any air, the void? Should be filled completely with something else, light in weight. I buried mine bucket and filled the rest with send. everything was in zip bags and oxygen absorber. Yeah was crazy but worked and sealed with tar over a wire buried around the lid to get access to the tread of the bucket lid. Does make sense? Couple years later my son had took it out and everything was as new. Georgia weather.
Funny, I did this 5 years ago and my husband laughed at me and made me get everything. Now, I'll do it again.
Next time don't tell him (until or unless you need to dig it up again, of course).
Loose lips sink ships sister 😊
Flashlight, batteries, silky saw, first aid kit (ifak), socks,shirt,pants , gloves, maybe even an extra pair of shoes. No matter what anyone caches away ALWAYS have the 5 core things... water purification, knife, light, fire starter, & first aid. Food should always be in your cache but, make sure it’s high protein & high calories! Depending on area , time of year, & specific needs for yourself. If you take ANY medications horde them now ! The water straw you have I personally have found major problems with. I would suggest the sawyer mini. It has never failed me where the survival straw has. I got cocsidia because the straw failed at removing that bacteria. Also a small tarp 6x8 or 10x12 just in case ! Camouflage is what I would use.
Great video CP keep up the good work. Be safe & god bless.
Totally off subject, but only group that would understand.... went to mom's she's having hip surgery. I couldn't be with her in hospital. I reorganized her whole pantry and filled in all the holes. She now has food for at least six weeks.... she's home, haven't told her yet about the stashes under her beds 🤫🤣
playa playa playa! hanging past your knees!
snap, just realized ur a female, my bad
Must be a boy thing. "Playa" to me is the beach, so I had no idea what you meant... lol 😆
Cool!
Good Girl
When you remove compacted soil it will take up more volume than the space it originally occupied. A tarp is a better choice than a spare bucket. Dig deep enough to have at least half a meter of dirt over the item to be buried and put ALL displaced material on your tarp to minimize traces of excavation. When you're done you can take the displaced material to another location for dispersal and then you're only leaving the woods with a tarp, an axe, and a shovel. Nothing creepy about that at all.
🤣🤣🤣👍
Nothing creepy... Hahaha
😆😆😆
Every serial killer has that in his/her kit.
Very important. While you’re packing your supplies, make sure to wipe everything clean to remove scents. Also wear nitrile gloves to pack them to make sure there are no scents.
Wild animals have very acute sense of smell and they will dig up your caches. I’ve seen this happen with other burying of things.
.... like bodies......
the deers /stags will stomp anything they feel edible, i lost 3 oz of skunk that way 20 years ago !
I don't think a wipe down matter in this case. The Mio will explode the first winter when it freezes. I give it not more than three years before it either surfaces or cracks or both due to frost. This thing is getting looted by squirrels.
Yeah we have big black bears in my area. Nothing outside is safe if a 300 to 500 pound bear wants it.
I live where there are a good number of bears. They are always digging for grubs small critters what they can find especially in the fall. Anything you can do to remove scent on the cache container would
be good. Maybe some of the spray
anti scent hunters use would work.
Nitrile gloves would be good to use.
The rebar driven into the ground at known distance and direction ie. due North would be a metal detector indicator & visual if camouflaged properly,
I would be interested to hear
any other ideas on anti-bear
and location identifiers long & short term along with maps & GPS
Thanks!
I for one certainly wouldn’t rely on an app and a cell phone. Map and compass is the way to go
Mrs Pleasants Same...!
Both would be wise
+1 would even shutoff my phone before going into the back country. Tech companies store more data than you think and the other parties they might share that information with might not be the parties you would share that information.
Zach D Agree 100%
I have 2 hard copies of map of USA and compass, big ones the truck drivers uses, not to mention other emergency supplies. I build even a generator in my tool box, you have no idea how many times saved my ... .folding shovel, multi tool box, air compressor, face/gas mask, 12v winch, water filters just to mention a few.
Nice! Helpful. Two suggestions. When I plant trees and shrubs etc that contain a rootball and I plan to backfill, I usually haul around a lightweight plastic tarp to either carry the extra dirt away or sling it in all directions to evenly distribute it as not to leave a trace. Also just my opinion. I would bury the cache with the lid taped with heavy duty tape to help weatherproof the seal where the lid and bucket 🪣 meet. Just some added protection. Side note I live on a hillside and I always worry about soil erosion. I’m always finding exposed tree roots and rocks as the years pass. Excessive rain speeds up erosion on my property. One bonus though is people tend not to traverse hillsides when flat land is available. Less traffic less chance of discovery. Path of least resistance. Thanks sir!
I have always been somewhat apprehensive to bury my gear for the fear of it being 'discovered' by others. However, you have convinced me.
Now, all we need is a vid on how to stash your supplies in plain view; the 'nobody would have ever thought of looking there' places.
All ya have to do is, make it look like it’s supposed to be part of the property/area. But, put it in the most obvious of places. So, people would immediately think of it. But then dismiss it, just as quickly, thinking that “no one would do that, that’d be dumb.” . Obvious, out in the open, don’t go to it often, and none are ever the wiser.
@@edthesillybrain composting pile. Smelly and steaming lol
@@Rebecca-1111 that’s genius! Never thought about that, it’d have to be in a place. That’d be too lazy to clean it. Otherwise it’d be found, through people trying to make the place livable(if it’s too smelly). Or, put it underneath the dirt, build the compost pile up around it. Lot of work to get to it then… hmmm. ?. Maybe. Put in airtight bin, and put into a septic system. Plenty of genius smelly places to store bug out supplies. (Autocorrect is mean)edit.
@@edthesillybrain thank you for the comment. Just popped in my head. A place I wouldn't think to look. Yuck lol nor want to
5 gal buckets fit in large decorative pots very well. Put rocks on the bottom, then the bucket, then a flat pcs of plastic with drainage holes put your dirt in, and a nice cacti to top it off. When you need your bucket just break the pot or push it over.
A couple of tips -
1. Best to take a tarp to put the dug dirt on
2. Use the shovel handle to ram the dirt back into the hole
3. Pick up a few of those discarded cans and leave a few in a couple of spots as decoys for people who may use a metal dectector in the area (under ground and on top)
4. Use excess dirt to make a pile a little distance away and mabe put some can under it.
5. Put a few small logs scattered over the cache.
6. Mark the spot on a hardcopy map as that technology may not be available when required.
I would add 2 sets of clothes to change into for purpose of being dry & warm.
Warmth and shelter are far more important than food and water.
Good idea. Clean socks and underwear/shirts
@inc.opt.63 the purpose is to give yourself the highest advantage over others for purpose of longer survival, you can hide things anywhere not just in woods.
@@doris_1325 The highest advantage over others? Can't just your survival be enough? Others have to die?
@@kerrynight3271 if we all give ourselves the highest survival advantage no one will die.
It looks like you could use a lot of dollar store preps for this kind of activity. Cheap you wont' be too sad if it disappears. Big question, Would you cycle these preps? Pull them after 5 years and see how they faired?
You should have left your cache in the ground and call it a viewer giveaway. The first one to find this cache wins its content.
That's an interesting idea
@@CanadianPrepper LOL. This sounds fun. Make it like the curse of Oak Island.
As a metal detector that sounds fun!
@@soniavos8065 I was just thinking about that. It can be found with a metal detector.
Fun!
Very good tips. Thank you. Yes, I've already been thinking about this. I think you covered everything. Did you have a torch? Of course, any prepper could list lots of other things, but you are looking at essentials. Perhaps a small first aid pack?
What happens if you lose your phone?
I was going to use a step counting treasure map style.
1) Locate significant spot on road by Wood you will always remember.
2) Mark a tree, tie a large roll of string to the tree.
3) Walk in straight line best you can, checking back as you walk that the string is straight.
4) When deep enough and string runs out, pick your spot. You have counted the steps from the road, try round off to a easy remember number. Hide your cache.
5) Walk back, counting steps once more, reeling in the string.
6) Put that roll of string in your bug out back and black tape around it so you don't forget and cut some off.
The GPS is obviously better, this is just a no frills way of remembering where you buried it.
It's all seriously valued stuff to do.
Think about it. We have a little time now. If you buy 12 months 20yr ration packs, Bury then strategically divided into 10 containers, you could dissappear with just a bug out bag and survive years with hunting combined ie fishing, small game, hidden cache. It makes perfect sense.
Also, if you get robbed, or stuff gets stolen whilst you are on a hunting trip or patrol. It's not the end of the world, you can move to your next bug out location.
"Because I'm an idiot" that was awesome Nate. Just shows that your human. Keep up the great content.
True
Man ppl that have the pleasure of knowing you in their day 2 day are hella lucky! Wealth of knowledge and inspiration.
Regarding 14:16, as an alternative to using a hatchet, use instead a cutter mattock, because it is designed for cutting roots & for digging.
Bravo! Good one.
If you are a serious prepper, with a good amount of cache, it is wise to seperate it in case of fire, natural calamity or theft. This negates your losses and leaves you with adequate goods remaining to survive on.
If you are using a Gama Lid, then it's okay to inject a long life silicon gel around the seams, to ensure a higher degree of waterproofing. When burying the container, point it in a direction that best deflects water or sheds water. Putting a plastic bag over the lid area and tightly duct taping it sealed, then pointing it uphill, will acheive excellent or added water redirection.
If you are dropping caches along a route to a permanent bug out location, the first cache should be all about survival food and water, because you should already have with you personal protection and not be desperately hoping to dig it up.
I would put in my first hidden cache, 1)water, that is individually packaged in their own packs and 2) Ration Bars and a few quick fix meal packs. Having a Life Straw with no natural water source, is completely useless. A 3) fire starting kit, 4) a breakdown saw, 5) thermal underwear, wool socks, gloves, cap sweater or hoody and a blanket. If it's getting cold, you can wear the blanket like a cape, or cut a slash into the center and make it into a field expedient pocho.
Note: Having a good, bushcraft backup 7) knife isn't a bad idea. Prefabricating 8) backpack or single band quick strap(s) for the bucket and storing them inside, which will greatly improve your ability to land cruise. Having a 9) folding shovel is smart, because you will need it for any further containers you plan on digging up, because your first one will most likely be done by hand. 10) a map of the area you think you will mostly be bugging into. 11) Cordage. 12) Breakdown, compact survival bow with breakdown arrows. 13) Stainless steel cup or mug.
Outside the container I would bury 14) camouflage tarpaulin. If it rains, the tarp can be repurposed as a rain coat, by simply draping it over your body and riding out the storm and then serve to either be used as a barrier between body and nature or as a roof over your shelter.
Because you do not know if the first location's container will even be there, the second container should contain the exact same contents, as it would be unlikely that both be discovered and stolen/taken, as it would be in an even more remote location.
Nearest to your designed bugout location, should the heaviest items be buried. For example: a hatchet, cookware, breakdown stove, spare boots, goggles, helmet, blade to be affixed to a spear pole, etc.
Addendum: There is no guarantees that sufficient wildlife will present itself to provide an adequate and consistent protein source. Traipsing into the wild, is an extremely dangerous choice to make and should only be used as a last choice and temporary solution to an immediate life-threatening emergency. Keep in mind, that during a bahooky hits the Wuki situation, what drove you into the wilderness, will drive others there also; which means, you won't be safe, but vulnerable.
Turn your home into a castle and take your last stand there.
Out.
Behold a pale horse
Might want to check the weather before and bury it right before a rain. When it rains, it can settle down the dirt more. You might have to throw on more dirt or debris after the rain. But I'd check on it afterwards.
Also the rain will wash away some of the dirt around it so it blends better.
An easier concealment option (on level ground) is to build a fire ring and fire on top, and leave some empty cans behind. The fire ring will help with finding the exact spot again.
Excellent idea !
Brilliant
I would probably add some first aid supplies and basic meds (the ones with a longer shelf life). Maybe a pint of vodka for use or trade.
A pint? I'll bury a quart so I can get drunk in the end of days. Just one last time.
Alcohol great for bartering and wounds if high enough proof. Pain killer stress reducer.
trade the Vodka... keep the Whiskey
And honey lasts forever
@@superjeffstanton I actually keep medical honey and silver nitrate for first aid wound care
Dude you rock. I watched your videos a lot in 2020 and I "acted very accordingly". I fell back for a while. Now that inflation is starting and could possibly turn into hyperinflation, it's time for me/us to "act accordingly". Keep up the good work brother. You are one of the best at this.
One thing about the water flavor: in a bug-out situation, you may not be able to stop and make coffee, and caffeine-withdrawal headaches are horrible. Mio and other water flavor providers do make caffeinated ones. They say Energy on the bottle. Might be good to have these and uncaffeinated, depending on circumstances.
Maybe just get off the coffee habit now.
Good idea. I never thought about it
ween yourself off caffeine, start now.
Chew up a espresso coffee bean and chase with water. Works like magic.
Yep.
I know a prepper who has 2 years supply of coffee at home. That’s serious! 🤪
I have one little trick that we used to use when I was surveying. We would bury our property corners sometimes. Before you start digging stretch a string between four trees if you can find the four trees and where they intersect that's where you dig your hole but you're going to need to mark the trees that you used so just put a groove all the way around it about the size of a pencil or less or use the four corners north south east west anyway you can figure out how to run your string so that it will intersect the same place each time that's what you do it really does work. Y'all have a great day and stay safe and keep your powder dry!
If you put a groove all the way around the tree, you'll kill it.
@@oneperson5760 that was my thought too - otherwise it is a workable idea
Not a good idea. The living part of the tree (the cambium) is the soft green layer immediately underneath the bark and its cells divide and produce new sapwood to the inside and new bark to the outside. The tree expands in diameter as it produces new sapwood annual rings, so the bark cracks as it stretches and the cambium produces new bark to the outside - hence the rough nature of the bark of many trees. If you cut a groove into the bark and damage the cambium then you kill it and it stops working. The effect is to damage the sapwood at that point and upward flow of water and downward flow of sugars from the leaves are both interrupted and the tree dies.
@@markcocks5295 you only put a ring facing the hole not all the way around I know that
@@oneperson5760 you don't put a ring all the way around you only put it part way around facing the hole I know not to do it all the way around it would kill it
Take a piece of re-bar and hammer it in 2, 3 or 4m from your cache in a specific direction.
Re-bar blends in well, unless you are specifically looking for it, but being able to confirm a marker before you start digging will save you a lot of work.
Ouch. Fell on one of those once, still got the scar. Never thought it might be a cash. thought it might be a boundary stake.
everything is fun and games until you hurt your knee in some rebar
I would definitely use a couple landmarks and measure it with from the point of burial. I would not just rely on one means of finding it like that program. And you need to make sure that the landmark will still be there in whatever number of years.
In our area logging is a big consideration. Is the cache site on gov’t land?
Don't need tarp like others suggest.
Bring contractor bag, heavy duty. Turn it inside out, fill with soil and carry it away, then turn it back in, put bucket in, seal it and burry it
Great idea
Here up north we should hope for SHTF in the summer. Digging these things up from under four feet of snow and the same with frozen ground...you'll need dynamite! :)
Or a pickaxe and Mattock.
You could also try and get your hands on a heated blanket like they use in funeral homes.
Exactly. Here in Alaska it would be almost impossible to dig up a cache with the permafrost.
Hes from Canada bro
@@luddechamp I know, I don't know much about the climate there, just talking about how it is here in Norway. :)
@@luddechamp You must not realize that there are different regions of Canada. Canadian Prepper is located in Martensville, SK, Canada. That is hardly an arctic environment.
I'd add a tarp (8'x12' or so), an old pot w/ lid, fork/spoon, snare wire, fish line/hooks (if close to water), Gauze, scissors and a P-38 can opener. A Bic lighter is so small and cheap I'd add one anyway.
"The water your going to drink, even if you filter it, is probably going to taste like ass" 🤣
Thank you for all the valuable information you give to us ❤
Edit: Omg! Thank you for the heart, CP! Also thank you to ya'll for the likes 🤗 Happy prepping and much love to ya'll!
Great line, and very true. I always love the Sawyer ads where they are drinking out of a puddle with a smile. Mmmmm, ass.
@@Rob-- 🤣🤣🤣
Unfortunately, when comments are edited, they lose the heart reaction from the content creator. This might seem terrible, but it is an intentional feature by youtube. Otherwise, somebody could make a great comment, get a heart, then edit their comment to something extremely abusive - and it would appear that the creator has endorsed it. As usual, the trolls are why we can't have nice things!
@@Special_T_ Well that sure sucks for me now, I didn't know that, do you think if I asked him that he would put the heart back?
But how does he know what ASS tastes like?
I actually added an SD card of all my important family photos and videos in case I had to leave home quickly. I may not be able to see them but I have them for whenever I find a laptop somewhere.
CANADIAN PREPPER........... I love this idea , but I want to give you a tip about making sure you don’t leave anything behind that would disclose where you put your stash !!!! Being a Arborist I know that cutting into major roots / buttress roots COULD kill certain branches that the roots supported possibly disclosing the area where you buried your stash !!! NOW , this all depends on the specie of tree !!! Not all trees are like this !! As an example I have two Carrotwood trees ( Cupaniopsis anacardioides ) in my back yard , I wanted to plant some plants around the trunk not to close but have a nice 3 foot ornamental bed going around the tree , In order for me to get SOME of the plants in the ground I had to cut some decent size roots ( unexperienced I was about trees at that time ) over in a coarse of a year two major branches of the tree died bringing attention to the area that I dug in !!! The branches that died was on the same side where I cut those roots !!!!!!! NOW , anyone who is experienced in Horticulture knows if there is no physical signs of insects/ damage caused by insects or diseases that there is something wrong with its root system thus giving people the reason to poke around the ground !!!!! DO YOU GET WHERE IM GETTING AT ????? SO, word to the wise of you want to dig around trees don’t cut into major roots !! Or at least learn about the trees around you if you could get away with cutting into their roots without causing any significant damage!!!!! HOPE THIS WAS A HELPFUL TIP !!! God Bless !!!
Please add - do not put a lot of wt at the bottom of big trees which people love to do - a rock garden around the bottom - small rocks okay - but not big ones.
I was thinking that as he was Hacking away. His whole digging seemed noobish. 🤔 idk maybe just me but looked like this was his first time looking for a cashe drop and being discrete about it.
How many Horticulturist are going to be out in the middle of now where looking for a cashe with maybe a $ hundred or two worth of supplies? Those wooded areas are usually pretty big and finding or noticing a few natural dead or man man dead branches branches would be most challenging. The chance of someone noticing and digging around for a possible cashe is nearly zero.
It's pretty simple how to make your cache undetectable with the right knowledge, I learned modern trenches in War they scoop all of the dirt onto a tarp and then drag off the tarp somewhere to dispose of the dirt, making another area look suspicious and your area completely level
Hi from Syracuse NY USA brother and thank you for sharing your thoughts and adventures
A few things I would add, Zippo(unfilled) flints and large lighter fluid vacuum sealed, on top of the firesteel. I would take a Sawyer mini or gravity filter over a lifestraw. Back flush capable, it allows you to inline filter off a bladder as well. I like this over Lifestraw when you have to put face near the ground or contaminat a drinking vessel. For water also Playtpus 1-2lt roll up water bags take up no space and work well. The duct tape may fail due to heat or cold over years. A small rifle/pack size piece of camo netting would would well for your bucket but also a cover for gear in cold camp. Adding a pair of boxers, 2 pairs of socks, gloves and sunglasses would be valuable to you, also vacuum sealed bug spray and sunscreen might be a nice addition. I've used 10 year expired Deep Wood's OFF that worked just fine, but sealed to prevent leaking. Placed at the lowest part of the bucket.
Biggest thing I think you're missing is medical supplies. Blisters care, DripDrop ORS packets, bandages, gauze, Ace bandages, SAM splint, and other basics. Also Tourniquet or 2, IFAK, and even just basic OTC meds. While less than ideal the meds will last much longer than expiration in cool dark places. If things went bad enough you're opening that cache you need to figure you may be in a bad way with injuries or exhausted. If that's the case you will want some meds and a way to patch up some wounds or sprains. This is something that you need to factor with digging it up. With a small shovel and needing to dig with a broken finger or 2, sprained ankle or twisted knee, you're going to be miserable getting this out. Even worse if ground is frozen. All things considered it's better than no gear so you want to factor in caring for those injuries and swelling. Having a small cheap shovel/trowel painted, hidden above eye level near by could be a life saver too. Also you'll know that you are near by.
I like the idea of the app, but I personally wouldn't mark my direct location. If you're moving and lose that device now someone can access your supplies,primary BOL, and worst worst of all. People you love if you're using this for Nav to family. I would mark say cache is way point X. But really X is a boulder or large tree. Now know all caches will be 10 steps heel to toe directly north, and 10 steps east heel toe. At X just having a small discreet marking making a line or two showing north will save you if you lost all gear and your compass backup is inside. Knowing the location and unlikely to be moved landmarks is a must. In one year we cached food in the mountains, took pics and marked it. 1 year later from rain and falling trees the terrain changed noticeably and it took hours to find with multiple people. Depending on season and severity of weather it is very easy to lose a cache.
Wow awesome comment. Appreciate you!!
Smart.... everyone should have at least two, alternative "areas", to bug out,or stash stuff.right on,C.P.!!
I'd put in another pair of quality socks and maybe something to protect from blisters..especially if you have to travel another long distance to get to desired destination or another cache..
In the boreal forest, you'd better have a pick also to loosen the soil before digging. It's impossible to dig a hole here in the Newfoundland forest without a pick.
Same here in BC. These pple saying use a multi tool are living in make believe even for roots...lolol..
Good video! After reading a lot of the comments I see that most of the good advice has been given. I will add only two more:
1) after the top sod plug has been removed and set aside, the rest of the removed soil should be separated into thirds in three separate piles, top portion, middle portion, and bottom portion. Once the cache tube is in place only the top portion of soil is used to cover the tube. It’s a great idea to place random pieces of metallic trash around the area at different levels in the soil. Then, using your poncho or a tarp carry the remaining soil to either a discard location (100m to 300m distance MINIMUM from the cache location) or hide it for repacking the cache location once the cache tube is removed.
2. Always choose a cache site that is at least 100m to 300m away from linear danger areas (roads, trails, etc.).
Theoretically, anyway! :)
2.
Didn’t see the extra number two!
I would put moist absorbers as well. There will probably be moisture build up in a ( plastic ) bucket
Wanted to say I am so glad your store has a good inventory. It does my heart good, like the security you feel when your prepping.
I can tell Nate hasn't done a lot of long-distance backpacking. Don't get me wrong, love his work, but wow.
My Pur ceramic water filter good to 0.1 microns, makes water absolutely perfect. I've backpacked 1000's of miles with it. This is Basic stuff.
You're still getting my thumbs up but Damn Nate- do your 100 mile trip with a pack. It would take only a few days since you're in great shape!
SHOW ME!
I got lucky contractors working on an expansion at work had a lot of 12 inch schedule 40 pipe pieces 48 inches long spent 60 dollars on caps was able to make 16 waterproof containers. Something important to do is when you seal the container it's a good idea to water test it before stashing it. Great video C.P.
Disagree, would bury it vertical, smaller but deeper hole, a pillar is strong, on its side, weight could pop lid off, when digging out, first thing you get to is lid, you will be straight into contents.
Also less chance of a water leak through a faulty seal in the gamma lid (which has 2 seals) if it is vertical.
Spot on - and take a piece of ply or metal sheet to save the lid giving way under a foot or having, you accidentally put a hole in a useful sealed bucket while digging it up.
When you dig deep enough, the soil around the a horizontal bucket or even a tunnel will spread the weight evenly and much better than his shallow hole. I didn't think of burying horizontal at first, but I think CP has a great point if it's deep enough. I'd slightly slope it down towards the lid end, in case any water table raises, it has a better chance of draining out. Someone else mentioned getting below frost grade as well.
Well, for cutting top layer of soil i used to use certain type of DIY machete. It’s wide at the end and has bullet type point, so it’s good for digging. We don’t have survival buckets here, so we improvise and make containers out of PVC pipes. I would avoid putting metallic objects into the container, it helps to hide your cache from treasure hunters with metal detectors. Long term dry food , rope, tarp, maybe tablets for water purification, map. At least one extra jacket or warm shirt. If there are trees around - lightweight hammock can be good option to avoid sleeping on the ground. Depends on evironment
the key to survival is building self-sufficient communities: this is how Amazon and US Indians survived for thousands of years!
It's hard though
My neighbors are liberals with their head buried like an ostrich.
Casual conversation about the general idea of prepping benign things like food got my buddy red flagged and swatted by his lib neighbors. So, yeah, no thanks. I'm leaving the cities. If they want to stay and watch their children get killed and eaten that's their business.
Resilient communities
......beware the walking dead.....
Post hole diggers, and 4 to 6 inch PVC pipe, seal the bottom and use the screw on cap for the top, works great, add several desiccant packs, depends on what you are burying
Re metal boxes -- can also be detected by someone sharp enough to go "hunting" with a metal detector.
When situation is that bad, it could happen.
What about good plastic containers? The worry with metal is it rusting.
@@MysteStorm if your contents have any metal,alumjnum foil ect! Can easily be found with a detector... even a small staple will sound off!!! No metal of any kind.. Even a cheap detector will find it...
keep those things in seperate areas if possible...
I go out everyday detecting. I mostly look for coins. Unless I was looking for caches I would never dig up something real big. Evenputting a bunch of metal screws and nails out won't help. I can cancel them out.
@@soniavos8065 i guess i should of said " US GOLD NUGGET PROSPECTORS" HA . yeah, metal can be cancelled out for sure.... and if your not looking for a cache... you may have just missed that Ammo Box full of coins you ignored! ect... But you also make a really good point also!! . that, maybe metal is ok to store in.. it would make it easier for you to find your stash.. cause you know the area you put it... i guess, just dont stash in Known Gold Producing areas..
In that case, the bucket handle is more than big enough to pick up, as is the knife. Think about it, a cheap metal detector can find a pure copper penny half a meter down. Unless you go completely non metallic, someone with a detector will find it. But worrying about a random yahoo with a metal detector wandering is only an issue if you picked a really lousy site or they have a warrant and a really eager to find EVERYTHING. Think smart, and it's down there with "but what if I'm found by bigfoot"
I thank you so much for showing us how to do this.
Gives me something to plan out.
Your main cache should be AT your bugout locations, plural because you should have a plan B and C. Also, most of your viewers are in the US, right? So include at least one firearm and ammunition. The gun should be wrapped up like a mummy and enclosed in a sealed Mylar bag with 02 absorber added. One item I thought it was important to include in a cache along my bug-out route is socks. If you are traveling on foot, your feet will welcome a change of socks after a few days. You may sustain injuries along the way, even if only from walking enough to experience joint pain or blisters. Ibuprofen and antibiotic ointment should be in your backpack but it wouldn't hurt to throw some into your cache as well.
Dessicant packs...not O2 absorbers.
@@stevehouseholder7150 Oxidation (rust) requires oxygen so either one will work. Preppers tend to have O2 absorbers readily available for food storage.
I understand Jim and that is a good point. Not disagreeing with that. I was just simply saying based off what is being cached, my 2 cents is that silica would be better. O2 absorbers with silica doesn't work because what one gets rid of the other needs to activate. Since we are talking about metal (gun).. Same as storing ammo.. Moisture is worse than oxygen. But again, I totally get what you're saying and wanted to mention the silica for moisture purposes. I'm not saying you're totally wrong (even though after reading how I replied.. That's pretty much what I did..oops.. Ha!)
Silica will also help with the thing you mentioned...socks.. Help keep them dry. O2 absorbers won't do that. I do agree with the things you said though. Good advice for sure!
Rubbing alcohol to clean your feet at night.Feet out number people 2:1
Use to hand dig 32" down for cremation vaults at a cemetery with different soils where a pick axe, (longest tip you can get) and Garden Claw, (4 prong T-handle) came in handy to loosen soil when running into hard pan.
Deep as you can with pick axe then switch to Garden weasel for remainder. The bigger the width/length of hole you start with the more leverage you'll have for scooping dirt out with shovel on the way down.
That dirt is sand...Nice. Rain might settle and "imprint" after that backfill so double check or tamp for less settling.
Hmmm. I wonder if you were to take a cemetary plot of a relative that was cremated and use the rest of the plot for a survival cache. Likely not a log of people metal detecting there or willing to go there even in shtf...
In a more urban area, I include a pair of 8" bolt cutters to cut chain link fence or lock hasps. They're light enough and can be used for a wide range of tasks. They wont cut most lock shackles, but they will cut the hasp.
A small file is always good , the type without a handle. takes no space and has a 100 uses
If you have some land, all the better to hide it on. I would suggest putting some more stuff inside to take up the airspace. If someone were to step on it, they might feel it give a little. Maybe a piece of flat rock would do the trick. Good suggestion. I would also add some sort of lighting device. I didn't catch if you had one in there. Throw in some military light sticks, maybe a couple of candles too would be good. What about a hat and some handkerchiefs or field dressings? That would also take up some of that space.
I enjoyed this video, I enjoyed that you learned from and made plans to address those issues in the future. I think I would add a small brown tarp, socks and a few medical supplies. Maybe even a couple small pieces of leather to use as insoles for your boots.
If you don't know how to make European style foot wraps to use instead of socks I'd recommend looking into it. If done right they work better than socks in most regards, blisters, etc, and can be made from any long narrow strip of cloth. Used to be made from pieces of dead enemy soldiers uniforms while in the field. It's a good option to have.
Like you, I live in a northern climate. If you need your stash in January, good luck getting it out of the frozen ground.
Another reason the idea is absurd and counterproductive to your chances of survival in an SHTF scenario. Never mind trying to find and get oo your cache in a foot or more of snow.
Urban and suburban living makes it a real challenge to do these types of preps. I don’t know if the place I plant my cache will even be accessible so how do you choose what’s the best strategy?
Put it in a unique place that you CAN access when you bug out becuz otherwise its just sitting resources . But also understand there is a chance that someone or something may discover it.
A raised garden bed.
"Plant" some new evergreens along the house and mulch around them.
Best strategy, don't even think about burying a cache. Instead build a survival network in strategic places. Bargain to exchange survival items and skills in SHTF times. Baring that renting a storage facility if you can't store survival supplies on your property and hunker down if possible rather than bug out.
Maybe I missed it in the video, but I think you could squeeze some first aid gear in there with everything else. Also, I just started thinkging... Maybe I should grab some cheap superglue for cache build. I mean, it wont last 25 years, but I would think it would outlive it's stated shelf-life (I think 12-15 mo) if unopened and in that type of environment. I don't know much about superglue, it probably doesn't do well with freezing temps, depending on where you live, but if you have a gash that needs a sealin' it's a blessing. Thnaks for the knowledge!
I would add an extra pair of socks and a buff. Maybe an extra shirt.
Good point
Ive done that and after some years all the clothing was moldy.
So maybe put it in a sealed milarbag too
Thrown still hot from the dryer into a Mylar bag with a desiccant and then vacuum seal that. Otherwise you will have mold. This entire cache has moisture issues, why add another one?
@@tenchraven Especially laying the bucket on it's side unless sealed on bottom outside part of the snap on lid .And Atmospheric changes in the weather can cause condensation inside the bucket to form .
Yo Canada. Alabama here.
Your videos are timely and valid. Most folk don't know this stuff. Didn't take the time to learn. Who's sorry now? Who's laughing and pointing fingers?
6" pvc pipe is great for most rifles.
Just something that came to my mind as you mentioned the route to a bugout location. Should you avoid gas stations in a shtf situation? Because I can imagine these to be a sweet spot for an ambush for everyone with guns and no hesitations to shoot anyone coming for fuel to steal their stuff.
Puts me in mind of the movie, The Book of Eli. I do have to watch that again to refresh.
Anywhere that has food, water, supplies, medicine, and gas will get hit by everyone immediately after SHTF, and with chaos and violence. Avoid the highways, known congested areas, and cities, take the not so well known route out of town, like old roads, trails, and railways. Avoid gas stations at all costs, they are a sweet spot because of everything's dependence on gas, people will ambush there and never take your vehicle there if you need gas, get the gas by hand and stay out of sight going away and coming too, as in don't take the streets, move between homes, yards and forests. y the goal of survival is you want to see people before they see you, you always check something out as in get the lay of the land before you go into high populated areas or where people could be and if you see or hear something that doesn't feel right or looks off go with your gut and leave. hope this helps.
If I remember correct - Lifestraw does not tolerate cold temperatures and may not work after that. This is why they recommend putting Lifestraw in the jackets inside pocket and close to body heat, not inside backpack during the winter - depends, how cold the ground will get.
Isn't it only damaging if it freezes while the straw is wet?
I've heard countless stories of life straws failing the first time someone tries to use it. Test first once you buy it before storing. Same goes for all prep gear. I prefer Sawyer mini filter, but do have both.
Store unused ones. As for failure, they were made cheaply for third world countries not for hikers. There have been interesting things made to help third world peoples and some hit the American market and some don't.
@@KenshinPhoenix Mine works just well - just I am not putting it in my backpack during winter, because it can get -20 C in here
@@canadafree2087 In a SHTF situation - we have more then one option ... one would be Lifestraw, but we preppers can get by without it also, using natural materials
Unless I missed it I didn't see any type of shelter in your supplies. Poncho Maybe but if at all possible something to make a covering for a makeshift shelter if you have to be in the woods without any form of transportation near by. Tarps. Even the cheap ones at dollar tree would help keep you dry. Just a thought.
Anyone who buries a cache like this needs to accept the fact that they may lose it. There could be logging activity which uproots and exposes your cache, which the logging crew would then examine, and if logged, you'd be disoriented on the visual markers for finding your cache. Also, the property could change hands from public to private, or be inaccessible. Also, I wouldn't use anything electronic or connected to the internet to log where your cache is. So much stuff gets hacked nowadays, you can't count on that info remaining confidential. But that's a great point about bringing a bucket or a way to deal with the displaced dirt from the digging. Thanks for the vid! Great content, as always.
Its important to store food separate from other supplies as animals are really good at digging stuff up They'll try to dig up food, but they will not mess with non-food supplies. ALSO they go after leather like it is food also and will eat it.
BE SURE to keep leather sheaths and belts etc. stored separate from non leather sheaths and items.
4 ft deep helps beat the frost/fire line. Where fluctuating temperatures can destroy or degrade your product. Not that I've done it before
The "Dirt / volume displacement" @ 15:16. You are going to thing this is crazy but if you bury it on the new moon, you will have less dirt to dispose of. I was a landscaper and we would try to plant large trees around the full moon so we would have more than enough dirt to create the "water collars" without having to bring in additional dirt. Experiment with it. I don't know why it is a thing, but it is.
G'day Nate , one thing I would include is a small first aid kit and a small sewing kit with a few buttons and needles and a pair of decent scissors. As for the concealment, I would give myself a backup for finding the cache. Something like a small marker. But I would have the marker maybe ten steps away. This is just a suggestion. The placing of the marker would be lined up with maybe a distinctive rock, tree or other landmark feature that only YOU think is memorable.
You might drop the remaining soil in nearby running water, that would disperse it quickly. Or on a busy road or trail elsewhere.
Now i know what to do with some of my old stuff.
"Ya gotta think prison shiv." Canadian Prepper 10/9/2021 😂🤣
UK, Germany, China, Lebanon and now India looking at energy crises and coal shortages.
Very relevant advice from this channel. The world seems to be on a precipice
Good one! My primary concern would be moisture infiltration over time. Finding the cache years later could be challenging. The woods can change significantly as trees grow and vegetation gets reestablished. Someone mentioned rebar in the comments. Great idea, you could find the rebar with a metal detector. Set the rebar a know distance and direction from your cache to is in relocating it. 👍
A suggestion and another option to explore is urban/sub-urban cache, which you dont need to dig but hide your cache well with the surrounding. For example, a car junk yard where you have access to legally, a neglected corner of a industrial storage area, etc. As long as you can verify it is secured where it is at, hiding rather than burying may be a better option. Coz burying in urban environment may not be an option for many living in the concrete jungle.
Very informative and appreciate the knowledge. Poison ivy on top and surrounding would be a great deterrent.
When you move this to the new location remember to put the hatchet in this time. Always room for all of us to improve. Good video
That moss you're digging around makes great bedding (A Greg Ovens trick-another Canadian, Nate). 🇨🇦
Greg is one of those salt of the earth guys. I could easily see hanging with him.
Many good ideas and other considerations here. Thank you all. A can opener in case you forage some canned food. A multi tool or p38 are antiquated but I carried an opener for 28 years and everyone borrowed it until they brought their own. I never enter the woods without ANVIL pruning shears. Briars, kindling and rope cutting. Dig with a maddox, shovel with a shovel. Maddox is natural root cutter especially with ax blade on the back. Good frozen ground cutter. Hide in hollow tree ? A bucket in compression is stronger than on its side in this case. A plywood cover bigger than barrel diameter also helps.
Love the videos 💚 from England!
please correct me if I am wrong , but if you bring your phone with you when you create your cache, would it be easily tracked by the people your worried about? I am curious about this.
Nevada isn't getting nuked....America already nuked the crap out of my state lol. Our neighbor...California is a different story.
You should bring a “tamping stick” my grandfather taught me when doing fence posts. Don’t buy one, use an old shovel handle from a long shovel. Don’t just walk on it to pack the ground. The stick packs it in better than your feet. Great video!
I noticed you layed the bucket sidewise, sidewise is fine, eccept the lid end should be facing down slope.
You could put a glass jar inside and fill it with cotton ball a small jar of Vaseline and matches if you have to make more than one cash . That stuff gets expensive to leave in the ground .use a canning jar they are good later for heating up food .i would add some extra cloths and definitely a pot for boiling water.maybe some coffee filters so you can strain the water first save the filter on you water straw.but I think we could set and think of all kind of things we could do differently. You keep up the good work it keeps us thinking .