I have the 710 Jones H- bar on my Surly LHT. Best money I ever spent. No numbness, lots of hand positions, and I still attach my handle bar bag to the H-bar. I can ride all day with no numbness in my hands which was a major problem before I swapped out the stock bars with the Jones H-Bars.
@@senior_java Just try it. Climb up a mountain, do a downhill, get onto some gravel, hit the road for a few hours and travel into the centre of town. Have a beer, then you'll know... 😊
I have the Loop on my Chapman Cycles custom steel travel biked and a Bendy on my custom Seven ti "road/cross" bike. Love them both. The folks a RSC where I got my Seven thought I was crazy but I'm the smart one :-)
Really is such a marvelous handlebar man! Got to get this set up on my old mountain bike but I'm just trying to figure out what size stem you get what angle the one you got on there so perfect on that whole bike,
If I remember correctly this is a Thomson 10 x 80mm stem. But most the time when you put a Jones H-Bar on a non Jones bike you will need a shorter stem. There is a lot of good info and pictures on the set up in our H-Bar manual here: jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v3.pdf
@@Veloperator thank you for the follow up that's excellent information I was looking at a 70 mm to go along with this bar so I think I was close thanks again
How interesting to hear your first-hand comments about how you created these! I ride a Surly Disc LHT, and I have considered Jones Bars for long distance touring. But I WOULD REALLY MISS riding on the HOODS. I wonder if there's some way that (hoods) position or road brake levers could be incorporated with the other ergonomic design features of the Jones Bar??
Yes. The H-Bar does have a position that feels like the hoods: ruclips.net/video/yVRY82MO8rs/видео.html The "hoods" hand position became a thing on drop bars after brake levers were added many years ago. Before that, when bikes all had a fixed gear, there was just the drops and top hand positions on racing bikes. Once the brake levers were added, it was rapidly noticed that it was more comfortable to hold on to brake lever body when not racing in the drops. Adding rubber hoods to the brake lever back then made it even better place to rest and ride while waiting for the sprint.
I just purchased a pristine '92 Bridgestone MB6. No suspension. I'd like to make it a gravel bike to ride fairly decent trails and gravel/dirt roads. These bars look like they would do the trick. Any recommendations?
Yes, they would work well on your bike. Check out the H-Bar manual for more information about installing them. jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v3.pdf Check out 2.5 H-Bar, the extra rise may work well on your bike. Feel free to email or call us if you have any questions.
I’m adding this to my Trek 1120, but I actually have a question for the creator of this video. What kind of bike are you on as you explain this excellent product? That fork is absolutely beautiful.
I'm on Jones Bikes with my Jones H-Bars: ruclips.net/video/T4rxBquR5O4/видео.html More on the Truss fork here: ruclips.net/video/kMkQ7z9Gi7c/видео.html
so i have been using this bar for a week now, love the hand position , but i realised something, the handle area is very long more than 2 times longer than most mtb styled brake levers... so i do feel a little sketchy not being able to reach the brakes at the widest grip area. so wouldn't having longer levers help negate that problem ?
Hi El Jefe, it's true that on the 710mm H-Bar, you can't quite reach the brake levers from the super-upright cruising position at the end of the grips, but if your stem is short enough, you shouldn't need to be in that position when you're riding in situations that require braking. I'd recommend checking out the H-Bar Manual at: www.jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v2.pdf because it explains how to determine if you have the correct stem length and rise. It's worth noting that most riders need a much shorter stem with the H-Bars if they want to really make use of all of the positions. Finally, to answer your question about longer levers, yes, you could use longer levers, but Jeff's experience is that they get in the way of the more high-performance descending positions slightly farther forward on the grip, and it isn't necessary to reach them when you're just cruising along in the most upright position, so he doesn't recommend them. I hope this helps, but please feel free to send us an email or give a us a call if you have any other setup questions!
Is there somewhere that there is a setup guide. I just bought them and the guide comes with instructions on setting up the brakes and such but nothing on how to set up the hight in relation to the seat and the reach etc. Can anyone direct me to those kind of instruction? Thanks
Hi Larry, The H-Bar set-up guide that comes with the bar does cover this. I pasted the part about bar height and stem length here: "The Jones H-Bar works best when the main grip area is approximately the same height as the saddle, and far enough back toward the saddle to allow you to sit very upright when holding the rearmost portion of the grip area, so that you have easy access to the front positions as well. To achieve this, you may need a significantly shorter and/or higher rise stem."
@@Veloperator I will give it a try. I did not realize that my Sram Rival brake levers would not work. I put the bar on but now have to wait while the new brake levers and shifter comes in the mail. I tried to ask if my sram brakes would work and was told they would and I went for it, but only a sort way into it I realized that they would not.
It depends. We usually recommend a shorter stem than you had before. Check out our h-bar manual for complete info: jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v3.pdf
All Jones H-Bars are 31.8mm now. Most riders need a shorter and higher stem with this bar to get the right fit, so you will need a different stem to fit the bar (31.8mm) but also a shorter stem to bring the bar closer to you. Here is the manual for the Loop H-Bar: www.jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v2.pdf
I want it. Here in my country I can get this bar at a price exceeding 10% of the price of my bike. Plus some grips and tape. Hmm... Not a straightforward choice.
It's like oldschool commuter singlespeed handlebar, but with bells and whistles which make it ridiculously pricey... I kind a want it really, but it cost like my current bike and my wage are around 390$ montly... And I can't find nowadays produced oldschool handlebar which I can afford. Kind love to hate this I think. Meh...
no offence but the BS starts at 0.16 : you can't move when holding a 'normal' bar?? Billions of bicycle journeys worldwide contradict this marketing hype...
I think you misunderstood me. I did not say you "can't move when holding a 'normal' bar". What I did say and was showing with my hands and body, is that with: "a normal bar you are holding on to one position, you can't lean back any farther (once your arms are straight), you can't lean forward any farther (than I can bend my arms), but with this bar you have different positions to hold on to". I'm talking about how with a normal straight or riser bar, we have only one hand position and so we can not move our hands forward or back on the bike. We can only lean or move our body from this one grip position. This means we are limited as to how far forward and how far back we can move our body over the cranks and wheels to get into the best position for climbing, descending, good neutral handling, an aero position, comfort etc.... Go to 1:15 to see me on my bike showing how I can actually move my hands to a more rearward (and wider) position on the bike for going down hill to keep my weight back. This is also a good position for just for sitting more upright for comfort. Also at 2:26 I show a good neutral hand position for more technical riding and control and also a few other positions forward of this for resting. Then the far forward position is for getting aero or stretching out and resting. Road racing bikes with drop bars also have more than one hand position, but for different reasons. Higher positions for resting and slower speed speeds and the drops are for faster riding and sprinting. Straight or riser bars have one grip position. Drop bars have high and low positions for what road racing bikes are for. My Loop H-bar has hand positions that are closer to the rider with wide grip spacing (like DH bike or cruiser) to other positions farther forward that are narrower (like the "hoods position" or like an XC bike with longer stem and narrower bar), and then there is the front of the Loop to hold on to also. Measuring from the front to rear of the 710mm Loop H-Bar bar is 10.5"/270mm. That is a lot of front to rear hand movement. It's like having and adjustable stem length and bar width in a way. Not marketing BS. I made this video after selling H-Bars for 12 years to help answer the questions I get every day from more and more people. I hear from many riders that tell me this video has helped better understand and better set-up the bars, and how they can now ride farther, better and with less pain. This is what it is about.
@@Veloperator You don't need any marketing BS. The hundreds of threads I've read about these bars convinced me to spend the money on them, this video just reinforces everything I've read, and your reply to this comment shows that you know exactly what you're making and why you're making it that way. Looking forward to trying out the bars.
I have the 710 Jones H- bar on my Surly LHT. Best money I ever spent. No numbness, lots of hand positions, and I still attach my handle bar bag to the H-bar. I can ride all day with no numbness in my hands which was a major problem before I swapped out the stock bars with the Jones H-Bars.
Your bar has changed my life! 12 years later, I'm still loving your bars!
Thank you very much!
Does this make such a difference? Really?
@@senior_java Just try it. Climb up a mountain, do a downhill, get onto some gravel, hit the road for a few hours and travel into the centre of town. Have a beer, then you'll know... 😊
@Isaias Zahir Wow, 15 minutes and it worked!
This video has me sold on them. Been looking for these for a long time now.
I respect this man immensely.
Best thing to happen to fun bikes this millennium. Surly Karate Monkey and Jones Bars is the best set up I've found in 40 years
I have the Loop on my Chapman Cycles custom steel travel biked and a Bendy on my custom Seven ti "road/cross" bike. Love them both. The folks a RSC where I got my Seven thought I was crazy but I'm the smart one :-)
I don’t have Jones bars, but some day I will. I’m a fan!😂
Really is such a marvelous handlebar man! Got to get this set up on my old mountain bike but I'm just trying to figure out what size stem you get what angle the one you got on there so perfect on that whole bike,
If I remember correctly this is a Thomson 10 x 80mm stem. But most the time when you put a Jones H-Bar on a non Jones bike you will need a shorter stem. There is a lot of good info and pictures on the set up in our H-Bar manual here: jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v3.pdf
@@Veloperator thank you for the follow up that's excellent information I was looking at a 70 mm to go along with this bar so I think I was close thanks again
How interesting to hear your first-hand comments about how you created these!
I ride a Surly Disc LHT, and I have considered Jones Bars for long distance touring. But I WOULD REALLY MISS riding on the HOODS. I wonder if there's some way that (hoods) position or road brake levers could be incorporated with the other ergonomic design features of the Jones Bar??
Yes. The H-Bar does have a position that feels like the hoods: ruclips.net/video/yVRY82MO8rs/видео.html
The "hoods" hand position became a thing on drop bars after brake levers were added many years ago. Before that, when bikes all had a fixed gear, there was just the drops and top hand positions on racing bikes. Once the brake levers were added, it was rapidly noticed that it was more comfortable to hold on to brake lever body when not racing in the drops. Adding rubber hoods to the brake lever back then made it even better place to rest and ride while waiting for the sprint.
Have a set on my Krampus and my ECR. I love them.
What is the name of the aereobar?
Best bars ever produced. Period.
Awesome! I now have three Jones Bar, replaced all my flat bars to these
Thanks ! We are happy you are enjoying your H-Bars!
Hmmm. Might consider bar this for my nest bike, looks amazing!
Very nice indeed. Well done mate.
Greats Bars. Have the 710 on my Krampus.
Very good nice handle bar loop bar for touring
Thanks 👍
I just purchased a pristine '92 Bridgestone MB6. No suspension. I'd like to make it a gravel bike to ride fairly decent trails and gravel/dirt roads. These bars look like they would do the trick. Any recommendations?
Yes, they would work well on your bike. Check out the H-Bar manual for more information about installing them. jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v3.pdf Check out 2.5 H-Bar, the extra rise may work well on your bike. Feel free to email or call us if you have any questions.
I like the single post extension bar on your mount. Where can I find this? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, and I've already purchased it and got it.
The wheel barrow comment made a lot of sense.
How would the Jones H Bar compare with the Denham Bars?
I'm going to buy a pair for my wife. 👌🏼
Zimmer frame style! xD Awesome bars.
Very nice ❤
Anyone have the Hbar 2.5 on a 2018 Trek Stache 5? If so, I’d appreciate any observations.
I’m adding this to my Trek 1120, but I actually have a question for the creator of this video. What kind of bike are you on as you explain this excellent product? That fork is absolutely beautiful.
I'm on Jones Bikes with my Jones H-Bars: ruclips.net/video/T4rxBquR5O4/видео.html
More on the Truss fork here: ruclips.net/video/kMkQ7z9Gi7c/видео.html
What bar tape/padding is that?
so i have been using this bar for a week now, love the hand position , but i realised something, the handle area is very long more than 2 times longer than most mtb styled brake levers... so i do feel a little sketchy not being able to reach the brakes at the widest grip area.
so wouldn't having longer levers help negate that problem ?
Hi El Jefe,
it's true that on the 710mm H-Bar, you can't quite reach the brake levers from the super-upright cruising position at the end of the grips, but if your stem is short enough, you shouldn't need to be in that position when you're riding in situations that require braking. I'd recommend checking out the H-Bar Manual at: www.jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v2.pdf because it explains how to determine if you have the correct stem length and rise. It's worth noting that most riders need a much shorter stem with the H-Bars if they want to really make use of all of the positions.
Finally, to answer your question about longer levers, yes, you could use longer levers, but Jeff's experience is that they get in the way of the more high-performance descending positions slightly farther forward on the grip, and it isn't necessary to reach them when you're just cruising along in the most upright position, so he doesn't recommend them.
I hope this helps, but please feel free to send us an email or give a us a call if you have any other setup questions!
thanks brandon!
El Jefe See physics, fulcrum
Is there somewhere that there is a setup guide. I just bought them and the guide comes with instructions on setting up the brakes and such but nothing on how to set up the hight in relation to the seat and the reach etc. Can anyone direct me to those kind of instruction? Thanks
Hi Larry, The H-Bar set-up guide that comes with the bar does cover this. I pasted the part about bar height and stem length here: "The Jones H-Bar works best when the main grip area is approximately the same height as the saddle, and far enough back toward the saddle to allow you to sit very upright when holding the rearmost portion of the grip area, so that you have easy access to the front positions as well. To achieve this, you may need a significantly shorter and/or higher rise stem."
@@Veloperator I will give it a try. I did not realize that my Sram Rival brake levers would not work. I put the bar on but now have to wait while the new brake levers and shifter comes in the mail. I tried to ask if my sram brakes would work and was told they would and I went for it, but only a sort way into it I realized that they would not.
@@LarryRichelli If you ask us, we will tell you that drop bar levers do not fit. H-Bars use flat bar levers. Enjoy your rides!
Can you fit regular clip on aero bars on the jones bar?
May I ask what is the recommended stem length for jones h bar? 50mm or 60mm?
It depends. We usually recommend a shorter stem than you had before. Check out our h-bar manual for complete info: jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v3.pdf
I just bought a jones H-Bar but I have a Truvativ Holzfeller - 31.8 x 40 mm - 0 º stem will this work? or do I need a new stem?
Yes. It will fit in a 31.8mm stem... Please call to talk to us about fit.
May i ask what schwalbe tires you used this video?
I love mine
Are these handlebars made for a 25.4mm handlebar clamp? I've only seen 31.8mm so far.
All Jones H-Bars are 31.8mm now. Most riders need a shorter and higher stem with this bar to get the right fit, so you will need a different stem to fit the bar (31.8mm) but also a shorter stem to bring the bar closer to you. Here is the manual for the Loop H-Bar: www.jonesbikes.com/content/Jones_H-Bar_GUIDE_web_v2.pdf
Where can I buy this bar in the UK?
How much vertical rise?
What grips are those?
Jones EVA H-Grips 205mm www.jonesbikes.com/jones-eva-h-grips-205mm-for-710mm-h-bar/
I want it. Here in my country I can get this bar at a price exceeding 10% of the price of my bike. Plus some grips and tape. Hmm... Not a straightforward choice.
Easy solution: buy a more expensive bike.
@@brianmcg321 Hahaha! You're a practical man, Brian! 👍
It's like oldschool commuter singlespeed handlebar, but with bells and whistles which make it ridiculously pricey... I kind a want it really, but it cost like my current bike and my wage are around 390$ montly... And I can't find nowadays produced oldschool handlebar which I can afford. Kind love to hate this I think. Meh...
no offence but the BS starts at 0.16 : you can't move when holding a 'normal' bar?? Billions of bicycle journeys worldwide contradict this marketing hype...
I think you misunderstood me. I did not say you "can't move when holding a 'normal' bar". What I did say and was showing with my hands and body, is that with: "a normal bar you are holding on to one position, you can't lean back any farther (once your arms are straight), you can't lean forward any farther (than I can bend my arms), but with this bar you have different positions to hold on to".
I'm talking about how with a normal straight or riser bar, we have only one hand position and so we can not move our hands forward or back on the bike. We can only lean or move our body from this one grip position. This means we are limited as to how far forward and how far back we can move our body over the cranks and wheels to get into the best position for climbing, descending, good neutral handling, an aero position, comfort etc.... Go to 1:15 to see me on my bike showing how I can actually move my hands to a more rearward (and wider) position on the bike for going down hill to keep my weight back. This is also a good position for just for sitting more upright for comfort. Also at 2:26 I show a good neutral hand position for more technical riding and control and also a few other positions forward of this for resting. Then the far forward position is for getting aero or stretching out and resting.
Road racing bikes with drop bars also have more than one hand position, but for different reasons. Higher positions for resting and slower speed speeds and the drops are for faster riding and sprinting.
Straight or riser bars have one grip position.
Drop bars have high and low positions for what road racing bikes are for.
My Loop H-bar has hand positions that are closer to the rider with wide grip spacing (like DH bike or cruiser) to other positions farther forward that are narrower (like the "hoods position" or like an XC bike with longer stem and narrower bar), and then there is the front of the Loop to hold on to also.
Measuring from the front to rear of the 710mm Loop H-Bar bar is 10.5"/270mm. That is a lot of front to rear hand movement. It's like having and adjustable stem length and bar width in a way.
Not marketing BS. I made this video after selling H-Bars for 12 years to help answer the questions I get every day from more and more people. I hear from many riders that tell me this video has helped better understand and better set-up the bars, and how they can now ride farther, better and with less pain. This is what it is about.
@@Veloperator You don't need any marketing BS. The hundreds of threads I've read about these bars convinced me to spend the money on them, this video just reinforces everything I've read, and your reply to this comment shows that you know exactly what you're making and why you're making it that way. Looking forward to trying out the bars.