Neodymium magnets are a great boon for many things- as others have pointed out, I have also used them at times for clamping cleats in place more easily than the tuner trick, as long as I have landmarks inside for positioning by feel- just want to be careful positioning cleat and inner magnet and then apply the outer one straight down rather than approaching from the side to avoid pulling the inner assembly sideways. One thing, though- when using magnets to align an initial crack glue-up, I now make a point of making sure I’ve got a bit of wax paper between the magnet and the guitar top to prevent the magnet from sticking to glue squeeze-out on the top of the instrument.
Jammer dat de meer specialistische trucjes niet wat meer in closeup zijn gefilmd. Ik kan het, misschien omdat ik niet echt kan zien wat je doet, maar ook omdat ik de ik de volgorde niet snap, persoonlijk niet volgen: NADAT je de delen al aan elkaar hebt gelijmd en de resterende opening al met verdunde secondenlijm hebt gevuld zijn er toch nog openingen, waar je een e-snaar doorheen kan trekken om van onder af iets omhoog te trekken ? Verder begrijp ik niet dat je eerst, nog aan het begin van de reparatie, zegt dat je 'nooit tape op een gitaar moet gebruiken' en als je bijna klaar bent aan de binnenkant juist iets met dubbele tape aanbrengt.
They are from an old clock indeed. Got them from a clockmaker who had a box full of old clock weights! I use them for all kind of things in my shop. In the Netherlands we have specialised shops for all kind of magnets and they are very cheap.
I love your technique! Several years ago I talked a music store manager into selling me a nice Alvarez guitar that had developed a crack in the top while hanging in a window display facing the street in front of his business. I paid $50.00 for the $500.00 guitar. I took it home and went to work on the crack. Having no clamps to get inside the sound hole, I worked some glue into the crack, then used rare earth magnets to clamp cleats on the inside. I have always been nervous that the magnets did not provide enough clamping force to properly adhere the cleats, but that was 7 or 8 years ago and I still play that $50.00 guitar every day. At least now if those cleats come loose, I know to drill some holes and make a tool like yours to make it right so my grandchildren can inherit that Alvarez some day!
I used to use the same method with a modified tuner and guitar string for cleating cracks back in the late 70's & early 80's, but now I find that using a pair of magnets for each cleat, I can do the job without making the tiny hole necessary for passing the string through the top. I use a little double stick tape to temporarily affix the cleat to the inside magnet. The ones I use are so strong that having the top and cleat between them still allows for plenty of pressure to "clamp" cleat to top.
0:35 Why waste time doing this? Only to then cut the string off? It’s a nylon strung guitar at low tension, just cut the strings as they were and save a lot of unnecessary effort 😮🇬🇧🙏
I don't know what kind of guitar enthusiast would dislike this video. Well done. Your patience is truly virtuous. I am getting much better at that and my work - in fact, my entire life- has benefited because of it. Keep up the great videos!
This was by far the best way that I've seen on RUclips to fix cracked guitars that doesn't show any glue lines! Might try this technique on my Ovation Balladeer.
THE NAME IS GEORGE AND I AM FROM GREECE. I DON'T KNOW VERY GOOD ENGLISH SORRY. I AM A PROFESSIONAL MUSICIAN BUT WE ALSO DEAL WITH MAKING BOUZOUKI BUT I ALSO REPAIR GUITAR. I LOVED YOUR WORK VERY MUCH. IF YOU ALLOW ME, I GOT AN IDEAS FOR CONSTRUCTION. VERY GOOD WORK WELL DONE
yes....I use magnets too. I usually put tape on the bottom of the top magnets so as not to possibly scratch the guitar. I also use top and inside magnets to glue/hold the wood tabs in place. I take a small piece of putty to hold the tab to the inside magnet, (blue tape the magnets to the top so they stay in position.) Then when you install the inner tabs/magnets they self align because of the pull from magnets taped on top. COOL
I like your clamp idea. I have an issue with the back plate of an Autoharp, where the back got a lengthy crack, and was pushed inward, when it was dropped by its past owner. It received other damage issues at the same time, which I was able to correct easily, back to normal again. It's a tight squeeze working inside an Autoharp with such a small opening on its face, but I think your idea will work in getting a good solid repair on this harp, and flattening the damaged crack area back to close to normal again. Going to give it a try. Thanks for idea.
Hi Ad. Can I translate your videos about the classical guitar building, for my language (portuguese) and reupload to my channel? There is few information in portuguese, about luthierie and yours videos are amazing, very educational. Obviously, I'll give you all the credits and put the original video link.
Hi Ronei; I had to think about it for a few days and actually don't know if there is a youtube policy about these things. So if anyone knows more about this subject I would like to know it. These vids are very important for me and maybe someone can help me to make the right decission. So I'll wait a couple of weeks to see if anyone has a suggestion. Hope uoiu don't mind!
Small point. possibly of translation; technically the crack is in the upper part. of the lower bout. Very impressive but I think R Scott, below, has good ideas.
During my thirty years at the bench i often used a tool like this, but would NEVER use it on the top of a guitar with a soundhole. For back cracks in F-hole guitars, yes.......but NEVER where i could reach in and touch the crack. Simply use your good magnets to pull the cleats against the crack.....fool proof and no holes in the top, no matter how small.
Great jig and repair. It just so happens that I've got a classical with exactly the same crack fault. So this was a timely catch, with some nice soothing and very appropriate background music. (BTW - I thought the first track was so catchy, that I had to pick up the classical and play along, now I've learned the whole tune, though I wish I knew what it was called (?) So.... Vriendelijk bedankt Meneer Ad van Kuijk ! Bijdragen.
Well, it might be free to you, but Titebond and CA glue and rare earth magnets are not free, or an old headstock or even spruce cleats if you can find any.
Hi, I believe the repair with Titebond and CA glue would had been efficient enough for this repair. Your technique is similar to piano soundboard rib separation repair work. Having to breach the wood with a drill only to make another repair for your self is overkill in my opinion with a guitar. Titebond glue is stronger than the fibers holding wood together. Adding CA adds additional strength. CA glue is a piano technicians best friend for strong permanent repairs on items in a piano that take way more abuse than a guitar ever would.
Great video, glad 👍 it has subtitles. French polish, hmmm 🤔💭. I'll have to research on how to finish the nitrocellulous and camouflage the repair by matching the Antique Vintage Sunburst colors. I'm fairly confident that my cat woulda knocked over the weights, leaving a dent or two to repair on my Gibson J-45 Rosewood Custom...
liked the magnets......... not so sure about drilling a hole and pulling on the cleat....... surely just put pressure on it from the inside without having to drill a hole
Hope you good day. New model D45 D28 Martin style acoustic guitar, photos can be sent as per request. Model info please refer to website: www.bestgrandmusic.com Any interests, please advise. Regards, Anna Bestamp-Guitar
Yeah, bitch! Magnets! I use polyurathane construction glue for reparing guitars. Also I use wooden dowels cut to the proper lenght to apply presure to the 'cleets' or braces when glueing them from the inside. I would never drill holes through the top for something like this. Someone else mentioned here in the comments that he uses magnets for the cleets also.
This video is great and a big help for repairing my old guitar.Thank you! But what can I do ,if the sound hole is to small to get in it with my arm? ... and can you please tell me the Dimensions of the little blocks ? ...by the way...the tool is cool :)
Awesome work. I've seen others repair cracks and made it so much more complicated. Clamps blocks and what not. Cool freebie tool too. Saw that method used once before. Thumbs up on this repair.
Zou je mijn gitaar waar ik heel verliefd op ben nog een kans geven? Het achter blad uit een stuk heeft van de binding losgelaten en er is ook een uitsparing in dat blad zelf ontstaan allemaal gebeurd na een ongelukje ermee. Ondanks die schade en het kraken tijdens bespelen van mijn gitaar zit er een hemelse klank in deze honderd jaar oude Europese Spaanse gitaar. Boven en onder zijn de bladen niet samen geplakt maar uit een stuk en zit er een barst aan de zijkant. Zo omschreven naar beste weten klinkt dit plaatje nogal hopeloos. Zelf denk ik de Stradivarius onder de gitaren in handen te hebben niet alleen door de fenomenale klank en hout soort maar natuurlijk ook omdat ik deze gitaar al zestig jaar in bezit heb en er geen afstand van wil noch kan doen wmb te goed is om als show modelletje aan de muur te hangen en zeker reparatie waardig is ( een grote groene en goud kleur rondje met een M erin boven op de nek) Geen idee welk merk of waar die vandaan komt. Vermoed centraal Europa. Ik klooi aan elke andere gitaar behalve aan deze uit angst hem te bederven en onbespeelbaar te maken. Wat zou jij doen en ik wil hem best eenkeer aan je laten zien. zou wel moeten anders kan je er niks van zeggen en of me gitaar te repareren valt. Groet
At 0:15 you incorrectly identify the section of the guitar where the crack is located. That is actually the lower bout not the upper bout! The widest section of the guitar body furthest from the neck is the lower bout and as you get closer to the neck, the most narrow section is the waist and closest to the neck is the upper bout.
Wouldn't the magnets (and some protective textile) work even better to hold the cleets while they set and dry?! That way you wont have to drill and leave more marks.
I only use this way on places that are very difficult to use magnets. There was a fan brace just next to the crack and it was a place I could not reach with my hands. Now I was sure the cleets were exactly on the place I wanted them, with the middle of the cleet exactly on the crack.
I use small earth magnets to repair tops and a string to yank it out without having to drill through the top. They do make small magnets which will fit in tight spots.
Thank you for posting, I enjoy your videos so very much and always learn something I never thought of and haven't ever seen before. Today there were three things I picked up from you that I will be able to use immediately! You did some nice work on this instrument. I am curious, did you do any humidification while you had this guitar, it looked so terribly dry.
So this titebond glue just wipes right off the top with hot water? Or do you need to clean it with lighter fluid after the glue has dried? Also, Why not use the magnets to put the cleats on (so you don't have to drill the 3 holes in the top)? Or do you jig your jig does a better job? Impressive job either way. I have an older Gibson J100 I will try this too. Thanks for the awesome video
you don't have to use naphta afterwards. The way I work gives me more control to glue the cleats exactly the way I want them and with the strength I want to glue them.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I got a Fender cd140 given to me as an add on bonus to a trade (good dealing) it has the same crack same area. This will be a $300 profit with some elbow grease in the shop and your technique and homemade tool.
Why is it that almost all violin repairs are done with only hide glue but guitars seem to primarily be repaired with white glue and even crazy glue ? I've heard people say that when you do repairs on acoustic instruments you want to be able to reverse the repair and that anything other than hide glue will affect the sound of the instrument
Hide glue is traditional and violinists ars traditionalists. There is no evidence to support the claim about the sound. Many wonderful instruments have been made with numerous types of glue.
It looks like my daughter dropped her Martin Special 000 X1AE. It has about a 6 inch crack on the back, about where the strap button is. Then from the curve under the sound hole, to about where the bridge is, the back has become separated. Would I repair the crack in the back 1st, or the back separation 1st.
I can't really tell Tim without seeing the guitar. Every damage and repair is different you know. Find a local repairman/luthier and he will judge it. Good luck!
er zijn vele manieren die werken Aad; ik gebruik deze methode alleen op moeilijk bereikbare plaatsen; als ik er gewoon met mijn handen bij kan doe ik dat.
a cracked guitar should be retired to rest in peace on the wall. why? 1. the guitar was not made with perfect wood to be cracked. 2. it was not taken care of. 3. if crack was accidental then it is the pity, guilty feeling when looking at the repaired crack. 4. no matter how the crack is repaired, its that bad feeling playing a known repaired cracked guitar. the sound coming out of the hole is the sound of a repaired cracked guitar. 5 . the audience will scream "he is playing a repaired guitar!" etc. Retire the guitar when it develops crack, my friend.
all your arguments are not true and show you don't know much about wood, climate and musical instruments. If all the instruments with a crack were ritered as you call it, there would be no guitars made by great luthiers around any more. Try to find a beautiful wood instrument older than 30 years without any crack! Please don't think a guitar with a crack is a bad instrument or badly made. It simple is not true my friend! And noone in the audience will react the way you suggest. Come on man! It shows you never had an old beautiful instrument or you would speak otherwise.
@@advankuijk Sorry my friend. A cracked guitar is just bad no matter how anyone tried to repair it. Repaired crack on guitar can be thought of as a scar on a beautiful face after plastic surgery. I have some very old guitars, older than 40, 50 years old, that look mint. I also had one or two guitars that had cracks. What I wrote was just my opinion. Other people can do what they want with their cracked guitars. Yes, I don't know about wood, but I know what to do when the wood cracked. I lied about the wall. I actually made some very good repair then laid it to rest in the case.
As a musical instrument repair student 35+ years ago I learned from my instructor that Acetone is what lighter fluid is made from. Be very careful with it around plastics - celluloid for bindings and such was glued together at its ends by wetting with acetone. I learned before going to school that it would melt the celluloid. To glue the cracks I set the tip of an opened titebond bottle onto the end of the crack and slowly squeeze glue into it. By watching inside, using a mirror and light, I can see that the glue has penetrated through and slowly move the glue bottle's tip the full length of the crack .
But... you have those strong ring magnets. If they're strong enough to hold that crack flat for gluing they should be plenty strong enough to hold a cleat in place without needing to put holes in the guitar top.
Not to diminish your expertise as Iam in training and you obviously surpass me. However, my opinion is that perhaps you should have only set the middle cleat perpendicular and the others parallel. Or, perhaps all of them slightly off parallel. I wouldn't want to diminish any natural resonance from direction of wood fibers. Yet I understand your preventive measures.
Agreed ,,, sticky tape ,,,,,NOT a good idea. Just one helpful note,,,( I hope ) When a decal / emblem etc is glued to a surface. That can even be a Car dealerships advertising sticker, or vinyl lettering . Bring out a normal hair dryer , and set it on low heat . Holding it about 7inches or so , and moving back and forth over area. Proceed to begin to pull stick off walking it back and forth so the tension is not all across the widest point all at once. Never get closer , nor use a higher heat thinking it will make the job faster. Depending on the surface of item. A lot of damage can be done . Then after its is removed... Usually on most surfaces . A quick wipe of denatured alcohol will remove left over residue . ( Use on Shellac is a no no )
Many thanks for the good ideas that I got with your video! It gives me the impetus to repair my cello. It has a crack from the seat of the soundpost towards the f-hole. The crack is angled and thereby nabbed (schräg angewinkelt und dadurch eingeschnappt). What do you think. Shall I do such repair in wintertime: with dry heating air from central heating? Or in summertime ??? The Cello is from China - not very valuable. Professionell repair is not appropriately ...
Neodymium magnets are a great boon for many things- as others have pointed out, I have also used them at times for clamping cleats in place more easily than the tuner trick, as long as I have landmarks inside for positioning by feel- just want to be careful positioning cleat and inner magnet and then apply the outer one straight down rather than approaching from the side to avoid pulling the inner assembly sideways. One thing, though- when using magnets to align an initial crack glue-up, I now make a point of making sure I’ve got a bit of wax paper between the magnet and the guitar top to prevent the magnet from sticking to glue squeeze-out on the top of the instrument.
Jammer dat de meer specialistische trucjes niet wat meer in closeup zijn gefilmd. Ik kan het, misschien omdat ik niet echt kan zien wat je doet, maar ook omdat ik de ik de volgorde niet snap, persoonlijk niet volgen: NADAT je de delen al aan elkaar hebt gelijmd en de resterende opening al met verdunde secondenlijm hebt gevuld zijn er toch nog openingen, waar je een e-snaar doorheen kan trekken om van onder af iets omhoog te trekken ? Verder begrijp ik niet dat je eerst, nog aan het begin van de reparatie, zegt dat je 'nooit tape op een gitaar moet gebruiken' en als je bijna klaar bent aan de binnenkant juist iets met dubbele tape aanbrengt.
Nicely done. Subbed.
Thank you Rattlecan. I subscribed to you a long time ago and have seen a lot of your vids. Great work!
Are those weights from a clock you are using? I need to find some neodymium magnets, they look very useful. Cheers!
They are from an old clock indeed. Got them from a clockmaker who had a box full of old clock weights! I use them for all kind of things in my shop. In the Netherlands we have specialised shops for all kind of magnets and they are very cheap.
Ad van Kuijk We've had a couple of holidays in Amsterdam, lovely area and people.
thank you Rattlecan and good luck with your guitar work. I'll keep following your vids!
I love your technique! Several years ago I talked a music store manager into selling me a nice Alvarez guitar that had developed a crack in the top while hanging in a window display facing the street in front of his business. I paid $50.00 for the $500.00 guitar. I took it home and went to work on the crack. Having no clamps to get inside the sound hole, I worked some glue into the crack, then used rare earth magnets to clamp cleats on the inside. I have always been nervous that the magnets did not provide enough clamping force to properly adhere the cleats, but that was 7 or 8 years ago and I still play that $50.00 guitar every day. At least now if those cleats come loose, I know to drill some holes and make a tool like yours to make it right so my grandchildren can inherit that Alvarez some day!
I used to use the same method with a modified tuner and guitar string for cleating cracks back in the late 70's & early 80's, but now I find that using a pair of magnets for each cleat, I can do the job without making the tiny hole necessary for passing the string through the top. I use a little double stick tape to temporarily affix the cleat to the inside magnet. The ones I use are so strong that having the top and cleat between them still allows for plenty of pressure to "clamp" cleat to top.
You remove tape by slight heating with a hair dryer, and it will come right off without damaging the surface
That literally damages surface ig
Suction cups are the best tool to squeeze the glue inside. This method doesn't allow for deep enough penetration.
Wow. So much ingenuity.
0:35 Why waste time doing this? Only to then cut the string off? It’s a nylon strung guitar at low tension, just cut the strings as they were and save a lot of unnecessary effort 😮🇬🇧🙏
Enjoy to watch whole video !! Thank you very much...
I have learn much from your Video !! I am sure I can fix a top crack of my guitar.
Patience is a virtue. Add skill and inventiveness and you get the sign of a master. I feel enriched. Thank you Sir.
I don't know what kind of guitar enthusiast would dislike this video. Well done. Your patience is truly virtuous. I am getting much better at that and my work - in fact, my entire life- has benefited because of it. Keep up the great videos!
This was by far the best way that I've seen on RUclips to fix cracked guitars that doesn't show any glue lines! Might try this technique on my Ovation Balladeer.
thank you Harry and good luck with the repair of your Ovation!
Thank you! I have several guitars with cracks to repair and have been watching a number of videos. I'll be adding your ideas to my bag 'o tricks.
THE NAME IS GEORGE AND I AM FROM GREECE. I DON'T KNOW VERY GOOD ENGLISH SORRY. I AM A PROFESSIONAL MUSICIAN BUT WE ALSO DEAL WITH MAKING BOUZOUKI BUT I ALSO REPAIR GUITAR. I LOVED YOUR WORK VERY MUCH. IF YOU ALLOW ME, I GOT AN IDEAS FOR CONSTRUCTION. VERY GOOD WORK WELL DONE
Over-complicated this process didn't you! You just need a bendy stick on the inside of the guitar to hold the cleat in place! This is just ridiculous!
Calm down you weary traveller
@@s.m.butterscotch1648 lol
Good lucky placing the cleat on the right spot
Very cool. Question though. Couldn't you just use the magnets to hold the cleats?
how about a Shop-Vac in The Sound Hole to pull the glue through?
This is brilliant. Are you still doing Videos.?
yes....I use magnets too. I usually put tape on the bottom of the top magnets so as not to possibly scratch the guitar. I also use top and inside magnets to glue/hold the wood tabs in place. I take a small piece of putty to hold the tab to the inside magnet, (blue tape the magnets to the top so they stay in position.) Then when you install the inner tabs/magnets they self align because of the pull from magnets taped on top. COOL
I like your clamp idea. I have an issue with the back plate of an Autoharp, where the back got a lengthy crack, and was pushed inward, when it was dropped by its past owner. It received other damage issues at the same time, which I was able to correct easily, back to normal again. It's a tight squeeze working inside an Autoharp with such a small opening on its face, but I think your idea will work in getting a good solid repair on this harp, and flattening the damaged crack area back to close to normal again. Going to give it a try. Thanks for idea.
Hi Ad. Can I translate your videos about the classical guitar building, for my language (portuguese) and reupload to my channel? There is few information in portuguese, about luthierie and yours videos are amazing, very educational. Obviously, I'll give you all the credits and put the original video link.
Hi Ronei; I had to think about it for a few days and actually don't know if there is a youtube policy about these things. So if anyone knows more about this subject I would like to know it.
These vids are very important for me and maybe someone can help me to make the right decission. So I'll wait a couple of weeks to see if anyone has a suggestion. Hope uoiu don't mind!
Alright, thanks!
I think ut could be nice, and about RUclips politics, the video would be removed from Ronei's channel if Ad reclaim.
One of the options in the 'dot' menu is to 'add translations' presumably by way of captions - take a look
There's no options...
Fantastic Job 🎶🎸👏
Small point. possibly of translation; technically the crack is in the upper part. of the lower bout. Very impressive but I think R Scott, below, has good ideas.
Quite an amazing way to mend a guitar. Thanks for the info.
This is great for I got Walnut Dulcimer with cracks in the back and this might work !!!!!!! thank you .
During my thirty years at the bench i often used a tool like this, but would NEVER use it on the top of a guitar with a soundhole. For back cracks in F-hole guitars, yes.......but NEVER where i could reach in and touch the crack. Simply use your good magnets to pull the cleats against the crack.....fool proof and no holes in the top, no matter how small.
Why didn’t you glue the cleats in place before the other repair... the cleats would have pulled the two sides of the crack together?
Great jig and repair. It just so happens that I've got a classical with exactly the same crack fault. So this was a timely catch, with some nice soothing and very appropriate background music.
(BTW - I thought the first track was so catchy, that I had to pick up the classical and play along, now I've learned the whole tune, though I wish I knew what it was called (?) So....
Vriendelijk bedankt Meneer Ad van Kuijk ! Bijdragen.
Well, it might be free to you, but Titebond and CA glue and rare earth magnets are not free, or an old headstock or even spruce cleats if you can find any.
Hi, I believe the repair with Titebond and CA glue would had been efficient enough for this repair. Your technique is similar to piano soundboard rib separation repair work. Having to breach the wood with a drill only to make another repair for your self is overkill in my opinion with a guitar. Titebond glue is stronger than the fibers holding wood together. Adding CA adds additional strength. CA glue is a piano technicians best friend for strong permanent repairs on items in a piano that take way more abuse than a guitar ever would.
we all have our own best ways Kristopher. This works for me for more then 30 years, so it must have its benifits for me. Good 2020 for you!
Love your technique!!! The only thing is how did you push the wire through the glued crack that you use to hold the cleat with? Thanks in advance
That is an extremely clever little clamp you have there. Tuning Keys - Who'd a thought.
Great video, glad 👍 it has subtitles. French polish, hmmm 🤔💭. I'll have to research on how to finish the nitrocellulous and camouflage the repair by matching the Antique Vintage Sunburst colors.
I'm fairly confident that my cat woulda knocked over the weights, leaving a dent or two to repair on my Gibson J-45 Rosewood Custom...
liked the magnets......... not so sure about drilling a hole and pulling on the cleat....... surely just put pressure on it from the inside without having to drill a hole
Hope you good day.
New model D45 D28 Martin style acoustic guitar, photos can be sent as per request.
Model info please refer to website: www.bestgrandmusic.com
Any interests, please advise.
Regards,
Anna
Bestamp-Guitar
35 Stew-Mac workers hate this..
Hi! Super video, very clear and thanks! Also, what is the music playing at the end?
i didn't know you can get glue that comes out of a piece of paper
THAT was bloody amazing mate. Bravo!
Yeah, bitch! Magnets!
I use polyurathane construction glue for reparing guitars. Also I use wooden dowels cut to the proper lenght to apply presure to the 'cleets' or braces when glueing them from the inside. I would never drill holes through the top for something like this. Someone else mentioned here in the comments that he uses magnets for the cleets also.
give this man an Oscar. Good day sirs
"for free"??
This video is great and a big help for repairing my old guitar.Thank you! But what can I do ,if the sound hole is to small to get in it with my arm? ... and can you please tell me the Dimensions of the little blocks ?
...by the way...the tool is cool :)
What brand and material are you using to fill crack please, there’s no in fo on materials used
Awesome work. I've seen others repair cracks and made it so much more complicated. Clamps blocks and what not. Cool freebie tool too. Saw that method used once before. Thumbs up on this repair.
Great mastery. What price range would such a skillful job as this fall into?
Zou je mijn gitaar waar ik heel verliefd op ben nog een kans geven? Het achter blad uit een stuk heeft van de binding losgelaten en er is ook een uitsparing in dat blad zelf ontstaan allemaal gebeurd na een ongelukje ermee. Ondanks die schade en het kraken tijdens bespelen van mijn gitaar zit er een hemelse klank in deze honderd jaar oude Europese Spaanse gitaar. Boven en onder zijn de bladen niet samen geplakt maar uit een stuk en zit er een barst aan de zijkant. Zo omschreven naar beste weten klinkt dit plaatje nogal hopeloos. Zelf denk ik de Stradivarius onder de gitaren in handen te hebben niet alleen door de fenomenale klank en hout soort maar natuurlijk ook omdat ik deze gitaar al zestig jaar in bezit heb en er geen afstand van wil noch kan doen wmb te goed is om als show modelletje aan de muur te hangen en zeker reparatie waardig is ( een grote groene en goud kleur rondje met een M erin boven op de nek) Geen idee welk merk of waar die vandaan komt. Vermoed centraal Europa. Ik klooi aan elke andere gitaar behalve aan deze uit angst hem te bederven en onbespeelbaar te maken. Wat zou jij doen en ik wil hem best eenkeer aan je laten zien. zou wel moeten anders kan je er niks van zeggen en of me gitaar te repareren valt. Groet
That's brilliant, I will definitely be trying this method!👌💡
0:20 Nooooooo!!!!
Please age-restrict this video. Or pixel out the chasm!
Just gold a touch of tape over on itself form a lip much easier to remove.
That's a good idea!
Very well made video, thanks for sharing your expertise.
I'm too picky. Have to have no dimples.
Very nice job, sir. It was a real pleasure to watch.
did you have to drill a tiny hole for the fishing line to go through?
Thank You a lot, Master! This was VERY helpful for my restoration attempt!
At 0:15 you incorrectly identify the section of the guitar where the crack is located. That is actually the lower bout not the upper bout! The widest section of the guitar body furthest from the neck is the lower bout and as you get closer to the neck, the most narrow section is the waist and closest to the neck is the upper bout.
you're right; just a mistake because it is not my native language!
Wouldn't the magnets (and some protective textile) work even better to hold the cleets while they set and dry?! That way you wont have to drill and leave more marks.
I only use this way on places that are very difficult to use magnets. There was a fan brace just next to the crack and it was a place I could not reach with my hands. Now I was sure the cleets were exactly on the place I wanted them, with the middle of the cleet exactly on the crack.
I use small earth magnets to repair tops and a string to yank it out without having to drill through the top. They do make small magnets which will fit in tight spots.
The background music was nice
Thank you for posting, I enjoy your videos so very much and always learn something I never thought of and haven't ever seen before. Today there were three things I picked up from you that I will be able to use immediately! You did some nice work on this instrument. I am curious, did you do any humidification while you had this guitar, it looked so terribly dry.
Hi Buddy, I thought of that but did not do it; I was afraid the crack might open when the season gets dry..
Thanks again for your positive respons!
So this titebond glue just wipes right off the top with hot water? Or do you need to clean it with lighter fluid after the glue has dried? Also, Why not use the magnets to put the cleats on (so you don't have to drill the 3 holes in the top)? Or do you jig your jig does a better job?
Impressive job either way. I have an older Gibson J100 I will try this too. Thanks for the awesome video
you don't have to use naphta afterwards. The way I work gives me more control to glue the cleats exactly the way I want them and with the strength I want to glue them.
You are indeed, an amazing artist !
Excelent job !!!!
thanks Bernal.
Thx share!
Gimme a break on this technique.
I had one of these 30 years ago … was a two part brass tool.
Great how do i get my address to you?
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I got a Fender cd140 given to me as an add on bonus to a trade (good dealing) it has the same crack same area. This will be a $300 profit with some elbow grease in the shop and your technique and homemade tool.
jerry snyder
I like the way you also use a forefinger to spread the glue (12:28) and how you get rid of excess !
What kind of weights did you use!
Why is it that almost all violin repairs are done with only hide glue but guitars seem to primarily be repaired with white glue and even crazy glue ? I've heard people say that when you do repairs on acoustic instruments you want to be able to reverse the repair and that anything other than hide glue will affect the sound of the instrument
Hide glue is traditional and violinists ars traditionalists. There is no evidence to support the claim about the sound. Many wonderful instruments have been made with numerous types of glue.
I enjoy every video you make. Thank you so much! Dankeschön! Grüße aus Berlin, Denis
danke Denis
Tightbond sets in 3 minutes?
Can you tell me what oil you mix with your shellac/DN alcohol for your french polish?
almost any oil will do the job, as long as it is pure with no additions.
Great fun to watch a craftsman who know his work.
Great work . Can I ask what music is in the background .?
the music is my own work; all originals. thanks!
It looks like my daughter dropped her Martin Special 000 X1AE. It has about a 6 inch crack on the back, about where the strap button is. Then from the curve under the sound hole, to about where the bridge is, the back has become separated. Would I repair the crack in the back 1st, or the back separation 1st.
I can't really tell Tim without seeing the guitar. Every damage and repair is different you know. Find a local repairman/luthier and he will judge it. Good luck!
I don't think it matters which is done first.
Do you re-hydrate the guitar before doing the repair?
I bought a cracked Fender and with rehydration to two parts of the top came together so the glue join was invisible.
Is het gebruik van magneten om de blokjes hout aan de binnenzijde stevig te verlijmen ook een optie ipv de nylon aantrek koordjes?
er zijn vele manieren die werken Aad; ik gebruik deze methode alleen op moeilijk bereikbare plaatsen; als ik er gewoon met mijn handen bij kan doe ik dat.
Any idea what the background song would be on youtube?
it's my own music. I only use my own soundtracks on all vids. All music was recorded in the 90's with minimal computer aid.. Thanks if you like it!
a cracked guitar should be retired to rest in peace on the wall.
why?
1. the guitar was not made with perfect wood to be cracked.
2. it was not taken care of.
3. if crack was accidental then it is the pity, guilty feeling when looking at the repaired crack.
4. no matter how the crack is repaired, its that bad feeling playing a known repaired cracked guitar. the sound coming out of the hole is the sound of a repaired cracked guitar.
5 . the audience will scream "he is playing a repaired guitar!"
etc.
Retire the guitar when it develops crack, my friend.
all your arguments are not true and show you don't know much about wood, climate and musical instruments. If all the instruments with a crack were ritered as you call it, there would be no guitars made by great luthiers around any more. Try to find a beautiful wood instrument older than 30 years without any crack!
Please don't think a guitar with a crack is a bad instrument or badly made. It simple is not true my friend! And noone in the audience will react the way you suggest. Come on man!
It shows you never had an old beautiful instrument or you would speak otherwise.
@@advankuijk Sorry my friend. A cracked guitar is just bad no matter how anyone tried to repair it. Repaired crack on guitar can be thought of as a scar on a beautiful face after plastic surgery.
I have some very old guitars, older than 40, 50 years old, that look mint. I also had one or two guitars that had cracks. What I wrote was just my opinion. Other people can do what they want with their cracked guitars.
Yes, I don't know about wood, but I know what to do when the wood cracked. I lied about the wall. I actually made some very good repair then laid it to rest in the case.
Magnetic on cleet
Truly artistic work....! God Bless...
Wonderful!
Super video, briljant! Geen dure tools kopen, maar zelf iets verzinnen. Zo doe ik het ook. Groetjes, Bert.
Dank je Bert. Heb met bewondering naar je archtops gekeken!
hope less repair...
As a musical instrument repair student 35+ years ago I learned from my instructor that Acetone is what lighter fluid is made from. Be very careful with it around plastics - celluloid for bindings and such was glued together at its ends by wetting with acetone. I learned before going to school that it would melt the celluloid.
To glue the cracks I set the tip of an opened titebond bottle onto the end of the crack and slowly squeeze glue into it. By watching inside, using a mirror and light, I can see that the glue has penetrated through and slowly move the glue bottle's tip the full length of the crack
.
Cigarette lighter fluid=naphtha. Safe for lacquer and shellac
I use a mini go-bar.
No more videos from you in so long? Hope you are OK.
I'm OK. Thank you!
Stew Mac will now be selling that crack repair headstock jig for $149.99
But... you have those strong ring magnets. If they're strong enough to hold that crack flat for gluing they should be plenty strong enough to hold a cleat in place without needing to put holes in the guitar top.
Not to diminish your expertise as Iam in training and you obviously surpass me. However, my opinion is that perhaps you should have only set the middle cleat perpendicular and the others parallel. Or, perhaps all of them slightly off parallel. I wouldn't want to diminish any natural resonance from direction of wood fibers. Yet I understand your preventive measures.
Buddy, YOU R GOOD!!!
very impressive work!Congratulation! need your skills, but I'm in California! :-)
Agreed ,,, sticky tape ,,,,,NOT a good idea. Just one helpful note,,,( I hope ) When a decal / emblem etc is glued to a surface. That can even be a Car dealerships advertising sticker, or vinyl lettering . Bring out a normal hair dryer , and set it on low heat . Holding it about 7inches or so , and moving back and forth over area. Proceed to begin to pull stick off walking it back and forth so the tension is not all across the widest point all at once. Never get closer , nor use a higher heat thinking it will make the job faster. Depending on the surface of item. A lot of damage can be done . Then after its is removed... Usually on most surfaces . A quick wipe of denatured alcohol will remove left over residue . ( Use on Shellac is a no no )
the scotch tape is fine
Geweldig Ad echt vakwerk ik hou Van de gitaar spelen doe ik meer dan 50 jaar en hou van mooie houtsoorten ben altijd op mijn gitaar aan het spelen.
Use windex .
Many thanks for the good ideas that I got with your video! It gives me the impetus to repair my cello. It has a crack from the seat of the soundpost towards the f-hole. The crack is angled and thereby nabbed (schräg angewinkelt und dadurch eingeschnappt). What do you think. Shall I do such repair in wintertime: with dry heating air from central heating? Or in summertime ??? The Cello is from China - not very valuable. Professionell repair is not appropriately ...
Nice job !