I loved the green light. My room used to have a 125W metal halide tubular lamp with its own ballast, it was nice to see it warm up in the morning, it took quite a while to emit the full spectrum. Had to remove it when I rewired my room and replaced it for a 30W LED but it's still alive in a box somewhere.
Some ceramic metal halide bulbs can be immediately restruck, especially with Sylvania / Osram CMH bulbs. Especially in my case with the Hylux A2088 car HID inverter ballast, it restrikes instantly while General Electric ConstantColor ones just flat out refuse to restrike when hot despite 20 - 30 kilovolts ignition voltage (of course yes, I am using 35 - 39 Watts ceramic metal halide bulb with the HID ballast in my modified Cyclops Thor Colossus Halogen spotlight as wattage still has to match so it works properly and Hylux A2088 also has a required bulb-out protection too). It's also much more efficient than 140 Watts H4 Halogen bulb especially with 12 Volts DC battery system, apparently - in this case this 23 Watts CMH floodlight looks like it's meant to replace the 75 - 100 Watts Halogen floodlight bulbs. I also should mention that I really like 3,000 Kelvins version of ceramic metal halide bulbs, they remind me of the good old incandescent bulbs.
I bought one to join the dangerous light club lol. It also has a radioactive unstable isotope Krypton 85 damn that light looks sweet. Cant wait to use this along with my tungstens to mix up a bit for photography.
You might sometimes notice a delay between when the lamp is turned on and when it actually strikes. This is normal for new old stock lamps because of the decay of the radioactive isotope Krypton-85 which aids in starting the lamp.
But once it’s fully warmed up, the colors are definitely better than that of a CFL or period correct LED lamp. But yeah, I totally see what you’re saying.
@@HIDLad001 Exactly. Like I mistakened CMH bulbs for halogen tungsten lighting cos of the superb quality. I love the green MV bulb phase and would happily use that if I had fixtures that needed reflector bulbs. Pity that most of the general public would see that as a massive disadvantage that it would significantly affect sales
i have a philips spot (150w red) for 130v with a 3 pinned bayonet fitting and i dont know if it works. and i cant test it because of the voltage rating
You could probably wire it in series with another incandescent lamp rated for 130V to test them (assuming your line voltage is 230/240V). But a red spotlight with a 3 pin bayonet base designed for 130V sounds like a rare lamp, so it might not be worth it.
I did just get an EYE Iwasaki 100w mercury vapor lamp as well as the ballast and socket for it off of eBay. The reason why I don't do it to often is because they are kind of expensive, and I get most of my lamps from thrift stores, hardware stores, and surplus stores.
I loved the green light. My room used to have a 125W metal halide tubular lamp with its own ballast, it was nice to see it warm up in the morning, it took quite a while to emit the full spectrum. Had to remove it when I rewired my room and replaced it for a 30W LED but it's still alive in a box somewhere.
You had a self ballasted metal halide lamp as well?
@@HIDLad001 it was wired to a coil ballast with the ignitor and cap. E40 screw
@@caroline1724 Thanks. The way you said it made it seem like the ballast was integrated.
Some ceramic metal halide bulbs can be immediately restruck, especially with Sylvania / Osram CMH bulbs. Especially in my case with the Hylux A2088 car HID inverter ballast, it restrikes instantly while General Electric ConstantColor ones just flat out refuse to restrike when hot despite 20 - 30 kilovolts ignition voltage (of course yes, I am using 35 - 39 Watts ceramic metal halide bulb with the HID ballast in my modified Cyclops Thor Colossus Halogen spotlight as wattage still has to match so it works properly and Hylux A2088 also has a required bulb-out protection too).
It's also much more efficient than 140 Watts H4 Halogen bulb especially with 12 Volts DC battery system, apparently - in this case this 23 Watts CMH floodlight looks like it's meant to replace the 75 - 100 Watts Halogen floodlight bulbs. I also should mention that I really like 3,000 Kelvins version of ceramic metal halide bulbs, they remind me of the good old incandescent bulbs.
I bought one to join the dangerous light club lol. It also has a radioactive unstable isotope Krypton 85 damn that light looks sweet. Cant wait to use this along with my tungstens to mix up a bit for photography.
You might sometimes notice a delay between when the lamp is turned on and when it actually strikes. This is normal for new old stock lamps because of the decay of the radioactive isotope Krypton-85 which aids in starting the lamp.
That is a quite unique lamp. Good pickup! 👍
Thanks! I have been wanting one of these for a while and I only just got around to buying one.
Nice ! I have seen some, but they cost a bit. Cool light !
I do admit, I paid a bit much for it. In all, it cost more that your ceramic metal halide spotlight!
Can see why they couldnt compete with CFL, halogen eco and LED cos at 2:40 some geezer be looking like Lord Voldemort
But once it’s fully warmed up, the colors are definitely better than that of a CFL or period correct LED lamp. But yeah, I totally see what you’re saying.
@@HIDLad001 Exactly. Like I mistakened CMH bulbs for halogen tungsten lighting cos of the superb quality. I love the green MV bulb phase and would happily use that if I had fixtures that needed reflector bulbs. Pity that most of the general public would see that as a massive disadvantage that it would significantly affect sales
i have a philips spot (150w red) for 130v with a 3 pinned bayonet fitting and i dont know if it works. and i cant test it because of the voltage rating
You could probably wire it in series with another incandescent lamp rated for 130V to test them (assuming your line voltage is 230/240V). But a red spotlight with a 3 pin bayonet base designed for 130V sounds like a rare lamp, so it might not be worth it.
@@HIDLad001 if i ever get to a 130v country and have the fitting for it i might try it out
Is ceramic discharge metal halide the same thing as this?
Yep. CDM is just a different way of saying it.
@@HIDLad001 thanks
Why don’t you don’t buy bulbs or lamps off of eBay? I have no problems purchasing bulbs or lamps off of eBay. Nice video, though.
I did just get an EYE Iwasaki 100w mercury vapor lamp as well as the ballast and socket for it off of eBay. The reason why I don't do it to often is because they are kind of expensive, and I get most of my lamps from thrift stores, hardware stores, and surplus stores.
@@HIDLad001 Yeah, eBay is expensive sometimes for me as well.