Thankyou, I’ve learned two things I didn’t know! I noticed you didn’t add stabiliser. Would you recommend any stabiliser? Also do you use the clips at the back of the caps to pull it smooth?
I have that same machine. I am good with the hooping of the hats. I haven’t used my hat hoop in a bit and when I am installing the driver, the screws on the top and the ones that go on the bottom are almost touching. So that when it stitches out they bang and throw off my design. I have looked and they are in the spot shown on the Brother video but I remember someone making a comment that they needed to go in a different spot or you’d have banging. Can you show a video of putting the driver onto the machine or a picture showing the proper placement of the screws on the Brother PR1000. Thanks
Great video!! If you are embroidering to the right or left of the front seam do you need to continue the straight line to the back of the hat? Also you used steam but a heat gun works well for me. What are your thoughts?
Not sure how powerful it’s the heat gun comparing to the garment steamer. From my knowledge it is much more powerful then garment steamer. If you do embroidery centre off but still front of the cap, just hoop straight has per video
I’m doing embroidery for 30+ years but never seen or done any hats on tubular hoop without backing…? I’ll try the steaming before hooping but I don’t trust that it will eliminate the backing. I’ll give a try…
Could you please comment on how to put the binder clips on the hat hooping? How much tension should there on the curved hat surface? I found out that too much or too little tension is not good. How much is just right?
MaximusSuperiorus the frames form that machine are engineered for the clamps. I’ve found that steaming the laminated backing just prior to hooping give adequate support with the cap frame.
Very Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad
Does hooping effect cap buckling? I've been having issues with NewEra brand caps buckling near the center seam even when using the inside to the outside technique. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong
I’ve personally found that some brands are more problematic than others. I’ve also found that cap frames vary for each machine brand as well. Guess what I’m saying it that there are a lot of variable depending on the hat and the equipment. One little trick that helped when I was doing production was to have the cap I was about to hoop sitting on the head of a garment steamer, it made the stiff backing a little more pliable for tighter Hooping and reduced puckering.
Here is a link to purchase Hatch and receive our free bonuses. They do have a flex-pay option for 12 payments of $99. www.digitizingmadeeasy.com/what-sets-us-apart/
John, I appreciate the video, but it only tells half the story. The locking ban is a good idea but only serves half of it's purpose because the back part clamps on metal and does nothing. So hat can slip. To tight and it adds to the wrinkling. When you put the clamp over the bill, you did not mention the wrinkles it caused on the embroidery surface. I was never comfortable with that. The new hoop tech gen 2 is out now and takes those wrinkles out. Also you get more surface to embroidery. I am looking forward to purchasing one as soon it fits the budget. I never felt I could make a quality hat with the other hat frame. Look forward to more of your video's.
Hey John you didn’t explain where to put the stabilizer and for the metal band one of them has to go under the metal on the bottom of the other side. You’re missing two things. But thanks anyways
Your video doesn't cover one of the most important aspects of correct hooping,...namely working the crown before and during clamping to minimize or eliminate the buckling that is showing on your demo hat. If one didn't know better, your video gives the impression that a badly buckled cap is suitable for embroidery, which is certainly NOT the case.
You make instructions so clear and easy to follow. Thank you
I've watched several how-to videos on this. Finally! a good, thorough explanation! Thank you!
Thanks for this John. I have just bought a PR1000 with cap jig and was struggling with hooping. I will also use Hatch for my lettering now.
Glad I could help Su :) Enjoy your new toy!
It was very helpful in watching you perform. Hooping the hat.
Absolutely fabulous. You took all the mystery out of how to hoop hats! Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Bonny! Glad you enjoyed the video :)
Just got a PR1055X and could not figure this out until now! Thank you!
Glad you were able to figure it out :) Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for Videos, could you show how to hoop a cap 🧢 to embroider on the sides of the cap? Best regards from 🇱🇻
I really enjoyed watching your video. You were extra informative which I appreciate a lot. Thank you.
Thankyou, I’ve learned two things I didn’t know! I noticed you didn’t add stabiliser. Would you recommend any stabiliser?
Also do you use the clips at the back of the caps to pull it smooth?
For structured caps with laminated buckram backing, it isn't always necessary. Unstructured hats definately need a heavy tear-away stabilizer.
Hi JD your intel is the best. Who makes the hooping hardware that you are demonstrating in this vid?
Can you do a video where you don't damage the integrity of the cap. Thanks
thank you for sharing this valuable video with us
It's my pleasure! Thanks for watching! :)
do have a video of how to mount the center seam hat. to embroider on the back. thanks
i bought hatch and love your videos thank you
Congratulations on your purchase of hatch! Glad you're enjoying the videos :)
I have that same machine. I am good with the hooping of the hats. I haven’t used my hat hoop in a bit and when I am installing the driver, the screws on the top and the ones that go on the bottom are almost touching. So that when it stitches out they bang and throw off my design. I have looked and they are in the spot shown on the Brother video but I remember someone making a comment that they needed to go in a different spot or you’d have banging. Can you show a video of putting the driver onto the machine or a picture showing the proper placement of the screws on the Brother PR1000. Thanks
I would like to see that as well.
Great video!! If you are embroidering to the right or left of the front seam do you need to continue the straight line to the back of the hat? Also you used steam but a heat gun works well for me. What are your thoughts?
Not sure how powerful it’s the heat gun comparing to the garment steamer. From my knowledge it is much more powerful then garment steamer. If you do embroidery centre off but still front of the cap, just hoop straight has per video
I’m doing embroidery for 30+ years but never seen or done any hats on tubular hoop without backing…? I’ll try the steaming before hooping but I don’t trust that it will eliminate the backing. I’ll give a try…
How do you know what size design to us on the cap frame ?
Could you please comment on how to put the binder clips on the hat hooping? How much tension should there on the curved hat surface? I found out that too much or too little tension is not good. How much is just right?
MaximusSuperiorus the frames form that machine are engineered for the clamps. I’ve found that steaming the laminated backing just prior to hooping give adequate support with the cap frame.
Very Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad
You talk about a laser to make sure that your hat is in the center. Recommendations?
This actual video was actually pretty decent.
Why can’t some do a video on how to do a flex hat?
Does hooping effect cap buckling? I've been having issues with NewEra brand caps buckling near the center seam even when using the inside to the outside technique. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong
I’ve personally found that some brands are more problematic than others. I’ve also found that cap frames vary for each machine brand as well. Guess what I’m saying it that there are a lot of variable depending on the hat and the equipment. One little trick that helped when I was doing production was to have the cap I was about to hoop sitting on the head of a garment steamer, it made the stiff backing a little more pliable for tighter Hooping and reduced puckering.
@@EmbroideryLegacy thank you so much for getting back to me! I'll try streaming them!
How much cost per month the hatch digitizer software after the free trial ?
Here is a link to purchase Hatch and receive our free bonuses. They do have a flex-pay option for 12 payments of $99. www.digitizingmadeeasy.com/what-sets-us-apart/
John, I appreciate the video, but it only tells half the story. The locking ban is a good idea but only serves half of it's purpose because the back part clamps on metal and does nothing. So hat can slip. To tight and it adds to the wrinkling. When you put the clamp over the bill, you did not mention the wrinkles it caused on the embroidery surface. I was never comfortable with that. The new hoop tech gen 2 is out now and takes those wrinkles out. Also you get more surface to embroidery. I am looking forward to purchasing one as soon it fits the budget. I never felt I could make a quality hat with the other hat frame. Look forward to more of your video's.
Price
Take a shot every time he says the word "actually"
Lol... I actually do say actually quite a bit, I’ll actually try to work on not saying actually quit so much :)
Can the machine handle foreign language?
Hey John you didn’t explain where to put the stabilizer and for the metal band one of them has to go under the metal on the bottom of the other side. You’re missing two things. But thanks anyways
Your video doesn't cover one of the most important aspects of correct hooping,...namely working the crown before and during clamping to minimize or eliminate the buckling that is showing on your demo hat. If one didn't know better, your video gives the impression that a badly buckled cap is suitable for embroidery, which is certainly NOT the case.
Imustfly my apologies, not my intent to give the impression you feel I’ve implied.
90% of your video is rambling
Have a blessed holiday season :)