Thanks for this video, very informative! I just started using my machine 6 weeks ago and yesterday it started cutting sporadically almost in dots, and today not firing at all. From reading the comments here it sounds like these machines need much tweaking and troubleshooting.
The fact that you can see water flowing through your tube is concerning. You should not have bubbles or air in the tube at all. This may be why you're blowing through power supplies. You may want to upgrade to a proper water chiller with a closed system that cools itself and keeps the water flow constant without air entering. This should be clean distilled water. You are also adding contaminants to your laser tube with the ice bag method. Thanks for the videos!
Hell Yah.. .thanks for the video on the power supply replacement and everything mentioned as well as explaining about the components. I purchased 2 of these machines where the Water Switch both went bad and sprung a leak. I also recently created a video this weekend regarding the water switch and bypassing it. That switch is so cheaply made and you can't even find a replacement on Ebay. I added lower power consumption inline exhaust fan and a chiller you should check out.... it works really well.... no ice etc.... runs constantly below 22 Celsius/72 Degree. I see that you added switches for the water pump and made your own chiller container! I love it man! There were other things that you did not mention. What is the Speed/Power you are running your engraving at? I usually cut at 95% power and 5% speed. This is likely the reason my tube wears out really quickly and likely my power supply is not functioning right now. Give me your consumption so we can compare....Thanks. I will post my video today to share it with you..... it's tough filming it, explaining, and working on the machine at the same time huh? I use a tripod for filming. Here is my uploaded video on the chiller and exhaust fan Oscar: ruclips.net/video/wOCAW6AP9Ug/видео.html Matthew
Hello, two things that I see, one: the water outlet hose from the tube is always better that it is submerged like this when the pump stops, no air enters the tube. And two: next to the blue PS you have another silver that is the one that feeds the controller, I would measure output voltages because the beep that is heard is very rare.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. this just happened to my 50 watt after only one month, the only difference is mine still has like 5% burn even though I have it turned up to 97%. Won't cut thru poster paper.
Any solution for ya so far? My 130 watt just stopped cutting well last weekend mid cut. It got super weak, then virtually non-existent. Redid lenses and mirrors and I'm getting a massive spot directly out of the laser tube, not the tiny dot I'm used to
@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato I watched many video and tried contacting OMTECH with no results so I took matters into my own hands. I spent half a day messing with the mirrors, cleaning and determined that the #1 and #2 mirrors were dead nuts in the center. My problem was the mirror on the laser head or some call it the #3. From about the origin point i set at the top left to about half way the beam cuts great a lower power but the second half to the right takes multiple passes and ruins the edges to the point I had to scrap many a sample. Look on the gantry there are two hex head screws mounted from the bottom. I loosened them and re- aimed the #2 so as to better aim the beam to the #3. once I did that I took a huge risk which I'll have to show you on a video but let me try and paint a mental picture. With the lid open and the beam hitting center on the #2 and on the #3 mirror I adjusted the #3 beam while holding the Pulse button down, I aligned the mirror while it was shooting a beam. If you do this you can see the beam moving as you move the adjustment screws a slight bit at a time and get the beam to get in the middle where it belongs. After that I did the ramp test and found where the best distance was which had changed from the original distance sample included with the machine. I have found I need to tweak this every few days so it stays "sharp' BE ADVISED THIS A VERY HAZARDOUS WAY TO DO THIS but I saw no other choice. Just be careful.
Thanks for replying. On my machine, my mirrors were perfectly aligned and had been in use for a few weeks at that set up no issue. Halfway through a cut/engrave file the laser just started to barely even engrave a super thin soft woof, 1/16" or so (have done 1 pass 1" poplar plenty before) I rechecked EVERYTHING. All mirrors are aligned, eventually all mirrors and lenses were replaced even though they were good, the beam coming OUT of the laser tube though is HUGE. Used to be a tiny sharp dot. Now it comes out of the laser tube about 1/4"-3/8" wide. And I've seen several different beam patterns on it. It still fires and has a significant amount of laser power, but the beam now, (I had the previous tape tests still stuck on the machine) off the Tube have grown huge and occasionally get an odd beam pattern. Beam out of mirror 3/the head is equally as big. We've gone top to bottom re-aligning the mirrors several times now, they are perfect, just with a huge laser dot instead of the very precise small one we've had since we got the machine. Not even that old but it cost us 7k$ usd so.. alot
@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato OK that's a BIG CLUE !! If the the beam on the first mirror is wide in diameter then I'd say check the tube for looseness, if it crept closer or farther away from the optimal length it will screw up your burn. there are screws to loosen it to slide forward or back. Something to try
Great video thanks. My Versalaser VLS3.50 suddenly stopped firing. The tube is in a metal casing so I'm wondering if you have any idea how this can be solved. Everything in the VLS is cased in whereas the power supply and tubing was very accessible on your laser. Can't even see how the cooling water works. Any experience with these lasermachines ? Thank you.
Crazy question. I have a "100 Watt" laser. I think the power supply is going out. It's firing rather sporadically. I was considering replacing the tube and power supply with a 150 watt system. Is it possible to run a 100 watt tube with a 150 watt PS and just not run it over 60% until I get the new tube?
Hello Oscar, After letting my machine sit for 4 months, I finally installed the new Focal Lens and a mirror. The old lens cracked. Upon firing up the machine, I pulsed and adjusted the mirror. When running an engraving, the machine did not emit a burn onto the material….. There is burn if I cut off laser path lens… I am stunned after 2 days of troubleshooting. I have replaced the Tube and the power supply with spare. The Controller is pricey….. do you think that is what causing the problem with the UNIT not emitting engraving burn? Pulse emits burn but no emission up on engraving….. Thanks , Matthew
You likely need to realign your optics. It's possible that your beam is hitting the side of the head, not making it out of the tapered end. You should be able to remove the tip and pulse it. to see if it's getting through the lens. Check the Boss website for a video on alignment.
@@ryanlangan1060 Hmm Thanks for the suggestion... on pulse it does get to the material, but on the run, it's a blank.... since I have been using my backup machine, I have not check since.... I will follow up on this post Ryan to let you know. Thank you for your advice. Matthew
If you are talking about the control switch that turns on and off the unit. They can go bad and stick to the on or off position. Is this the switch you are talking about?
I received my 50W machine last week. It was working for about 1 minute very nicely, then the laser power supply started to make a strange noise, the current dropped from 20 to 15 mA and after a few more seconds the power supply stopped with a loud bang. Now I'm waiting for the replacement supply. I hope not the tube is faulty killing the supply. Does anyone have an idea of the rootcause and how to check before killing the new supply too?
Not that I am aware of, although I have had fires in my machine as i am cutting material. Which i strongly recommend you always stay and watch your machine when machine is in use.
While you did fix your issue, i don't think the problem the power supply, but the connection to the tube. My guess is that the connection is not great, since you're just wraping it, there's probably some arcing that's damaing the wires causing the connection to break over time. I also see air in the tube, there's not suppose to be air in the tube.
Thanks for this, I'm working on a Golden laser, it all move but no fire of the laser, Is dose have a bad screen.So I'm looking at a Ruida RD6445G controller and screen, This way it Dose not be a golden laser any more
Thank you for this video, i actually have an issue with my new bought laser machine, while pushing the test button both on power supply and the lid it is firing but while engraving or cutting has no fire, appreciate if you help me.
If you push the test button on the power supply and it fires, that is a good sign. The next step is hit pulse on the controller buttons and jogging the laser head one way or another and see if it engraves that way. If it does not, then your controller is not sending the laser activation signal to the laser power supply to turn on. If it does turn on, then i would think if you are running a program and you currently have the setting too low and it is not burning like you want. Hope this helps you a bit.
Hello, the error that you saw first came from the flow sensor, which is mostly installed directly at the back of the water connection of the laser (unscrew the cover). You can also simply short-circuit the two cables of the flow sensor on the controller and short-circuit it. Or you should have checked the circuit protection from the power supply itself. That would probably have solved the problem. Furthermore, if the high-voltage power supply was switched on, to be on the safe side, you should wait a day before doing something on the connections, otherwise this can quickly end fatally (capacitors may still be charged). Furthermore, you shouldn't buy cheap power supplies. The power supply can also be tested with appropriate equipment.
I think you hit the nail on the head. These powersupplies are ... well dodgy at the best of times. You might get lucky but really it is luck. Even the better ones are not perfect. There is a reason Cloudray et Co. sell flyback transformers as parts. Got my machine secondhand myself and the original owner (who had no clue what he was doing to be fair) also gave me 3 extra PSU's next to the one that was mounted. As to the water/cooling situation ... I see a lot of what looks like calcium deposit in the tube. That is a problem too. It should be distilled water and I would even add something to it to prevent bacterial and fungal growth (as warm water is the ideal medium for that sort of thing). Special additives exist, or in a pinch anti-freeze can do, to prevent such issues.
Those Red/Black laser cutters are known to have junk PSUs. After you replaced it a 2nd time I don't understand why you would purchase same PSU again for a 3rd time. What you're saving in time and ease because of pin out; doesn't make up for the amount of money you're spending and PSUs. When it fails again; and it will; buy a better PSU. See Matt's Workshop videos on this same laser cutter and what's he's done. Here's his video on replacing PSU ruclips.net/video/QvixkewqinA/видео.html
There is a high voltage transformer which fails. They are available separately for around $25 www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDBTNXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_932IFb08FRS45
These are cheap Chinese crap power supplies, I repair them all the time. They are easy to repair. Also it’s not a 1000v that powers the tube, try 20,000v at 18ma to 30ma. You don’t seem to know a lot about this do you. Keep wasting your money of cheap power supplies.
I wear headphones, and this sounds in background make me crazy 🤣 I was looking at my garage like "whats that noise?" 🤣🤣
Thanks for this video, very informative! I just started using my machine 6 weeks ago and yesterday it started cutting sporadically almost in dots, and today not firing at all.
From reading the comments here it sounds like these machines need much tweaking and troubleshooting.
The fact that you can see water flowing through your tube is concerning. You should not have bubbles or air in the tube at all. This may be why you're blowing through power supplies. You may want to upgrade to a proper water chiller with a closed system that cools itself and keeps the water flow constant without air entering. This should be clean distilled water. You are also adding contaminants to your laser tube with the ice bag method. Thanks for the videos!
Hell Yah.. .thanks for the video on the power supply replacement and everything mentioned as well as explaining about the components. I purchased 2 of these machines where the Water Switch both went bad and sprung a leak. I also recently created a video this weekend regarding the water switch and bypassing it. That switch is so cheaply made and you can't even find a replacement on Ebay.
I added lower power consumption inline exhaust fan and a chiller you should check out.... it works really well.... no ice etc.... runs constantly below 22 Celsius/72 Degree.
I see that you added switches for the water pump and made your own chiller container! I love it man! There were other things that you did not mention.
What is the Speed/Power you are running your engraving at? I usually cut at 95% power and 5% speed. This is likely the reason my tube wears out really quickly and likely my power supply is not functioning right now. Give me your consumption so we can compare....Thanks.
I will post my video today to share it with you..... it's tough filming it, explaining, and working on the machine at the same time huh? I use a tripod for filming.
Here is my uploaded video on the chiller and exhaust fan Oscar:
ruclips.net/video/wOCAW6AP9Ug/видео.html
Matthew
Hello, two things that I see, one: the water outlet hose from the tube is always better that it is submerged like this when the pump stops, no air enters the tube. And two: next to the blue PS you have another silver that is the one that feeds the controller, I would measure output voltages because the beep that is heard is very rare.
This helped me understand what’s happening. I just got a k40 and it arrived but won’t fire. Hopefully it’s the power supply and not the tube.
should have showed us the test function on the power supply after installing the new one. good video.
Hi Oscar your video was of great help,my laser tube actually shows the laser light but it does not get out of the laser tube.plrase what can I do
Is it the visible spotting laser or the actual laser
Have you ever asked this supplier how come you're going through so many power supplies?
Awesome, thanks for sharing. this just happened to my 50 watt after only one month, the only difference is mine still has like 5% burn even though I have it turned up to 97%. Won't cut thru poster paper.
Any solution for ya so far? My 130 watt just stopped cutting well last weekend mid cut. It got super weak, then virtually non-existent. Redid lenses and mirrors and I'm getting a massive spot directly out of the laser tube, not the tiny dot I'm used to
@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato I watched many video and tried contacting OMTECH with no results so I took matters into my own hands. I spent half a day messing with the mirrors, cleaning and determined that the #1 and #2 mirrors were dead nuts in the center. My problem was the mirror on the laser head or some call it the #3. From about the origin point i set at the top left to about half way the beam cuts great a lower power but the second half to the right takes multiple passes and ruins the edges to the point I had to scrap many a sample. Look on the gantry there are two hex head screws mounted from the bottom. I loosened them and re- aimed the #2 so as to better aim the beam to the #3. once I did that I took a huge risk which I'll have to show you on a video but let me try and paint a mental picture. With the lid open and the beam hitting center on the #2 and on the #3 mirror I adjusted the #3 beam while holding the Pulse button down, I aligned the mirror while it was shooting a beam. If you do this you can see the beam moving as you move the adjustment screws a slight bit at a time and get the beam to get in the middle where it belongs. After that I did the ramp test and found where the best distance was which had changed from the original distance sample included with the machine. I have found I need to tweak this every few days so it stays "sharp' BE ADVISED THIS A VERY HAZARDOUS WAY TO DO THIS but I saw no other choice. Just be careful.
Basically wasn't the power supply on my machine
Thanks for replying. On my machine, my mirrors were perfectly aligned and had been in use for a few weeks at that set up no issue. Halfway through a cut/engrave file the laser just started to barely even engrave a super thin soft woof, 1/16" or so (have done 1 pass 1" poplar plenty before) I rechecked EVERYTHING. All mirrors are aligned, eventually all mirrors and lenses were replaced even though they were good, the beam coming OUT of the laser tube though is HUGE. Used to be a tiny sharp dot. Now it comes out of the laser tube about 1/4"-3/8" wide. And I've seen several different beam patterns on it. It still fires and has a significant amount of laser power, but the beam now, (I had the previous tape tests still stuck on the machine) off the Tube have grown huge and occasionally get an odd beam pattern. Beam out of mirror 3/the head is equally as big. We've gone top to bottom re-aligning the mirrors several times now, they are perfect, just with a huge laser dot instead of the very precise small one we've had since we got the machine. Not even that old but it cost us 7k$ usd so.. alot
@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato OK that's a BIG CLUE !! If the the beam on the first mirror is wide in diameter then I'd say check the tube for looseness, if it crept closer or farther away from the optimal length it will screw up your burn. there are screws to loosen it to slide forward or back. Something to try
Do you got cover by square trade?
Great video thanks. My Versalaser VLS3.50 suddenly stopped firing. The tube is in a metal casing so I'm wondering if you have any idea how this can be solved. Everything in the VLS is cased in whereas the power supply and tubing was very accessible on your laser. Can't even see how the cooling water works. Any experience with these lasermachines ? Thank you.
Crazy question. I have a "100 Watt" laser. I think the power supply is going out. It's firing rather sporadically. I was considering replacing the tube and power supply with a 150 watt system. Is it possible to run a 100 watt tube with a 150 watt PS and just not run it over 60% until I get the new tube?
I have same model. But my machine's main power doesn't work. Please let me know how I fix my machine
how did you make that control panel on your machine it looks awesome.
There is a fuse in that power supply it usually goes before the supply does.
How can I contact you, my laser co2 not firing
Thank you man! you help me a lot! God Bless you!
Shoing system starting please wait v4.2.1. but not starting, how can solve
Hello Oscar, After letting my machine sit for 4 months, I finally installed the new Focal Lens and a mirror. The old lens cracked. Upon firing up the machine, I pulsed and adjusted the mirror. When running an engraving, the machine did not emit a burn onto the material….. There is burn if I cut off laser path lens… I am stunned after 2 days of troubleshooting. I have replaced the Tube and the power supply with spare. The Controller is pricey….. do you think that is what causing the problem with the UNIT not emitting engraving burn?
Pulse emits burn but no emission up on engraving…..
Thanks , Matthew
You likely need to realign your optics. It's possible that your beam is hitting the side of the head, not making it out of the tapered end. You should be able to remove the tip and pulse it. to see if it's getting through the lens. Check the Boss website for a video on alignment.
@@ryanlangan1060 Hmm Thanks for the suggestion... on pulse it does get to the material, but on the run, it's a blank.... since I have been using my backup machine, I have not check since.... I will follow up on this post Ryan to let you know. Thank you for your advice. Matthew
How much EHT drive
Hi I just bought a laser; anyways the control switch won't turn off wondering if you had that issue before. Thanks
If you are talking about the control switch that turns on and off the unit. They can go bad and stick to the on or off position. Is this the switch you are talking about?
I received my 50W machine last week. It was working for about 1 minute very nicely, then the laser power supply started to make a strange noise, the current dropped from 20 to 15 mA and after a few more seconds the power supply stopped with a loud bang. Now I'm waiting for the replacement supply. I hope not the tube is faulty killing the supply. Does anyone have an idea of the rootcause and how to check before killing the new supply too?
currently doing my first power supply replacement. What silicone do you recommend to use?
Anything that is fast drying. I usually use Tub White Silicone.
Is there a possible cause of fire outbreak when the laser machine has been switched off?
Not that I am aware of, although I have had fires in my machine as i am cutting material. Which i strongly recommend you always stay and watch your machine when machine is in use.
@@oscararredondo64 That fire is do to not having an air assist blowing out the fire and making a cleaner cut
While you did fix your issue, i don't think the problem the power supply, but the connection to the tube.
My guess is that the connection is not great, since you're just wraping it, there's probably some arcing that's damaing the wires causing the connection to break over time.
I also see air in the tube, there's not suppose to be air in the tube.
Thanks for this, I'm working on a Golden laser, it all move but no fire of the laser, Is dose have a bad screen.So I'm looking at a Ruida RD6445G controller and screen, This way it Dose not be a golden laser any more
Thank you for this video, i actually have an issue with my new bought laser machine, while pushing the test button both on power supply and the lid it is firing but while engraving or cutting has no fire, appreciate if you help me.
If you push the test button on the power supply and it fires, that is a good sign. The next step is hit pulse on the controller buttons and jogging the laser head one way or another and see if it engraves that way. If it does not, then your controller is not sending the laser activation signal to the laser power supply to turn on. If it does turn on, then i would think if you are running a program and you currently have the setting too low and it is not burning like you want. Hope this helps you a bit.
Hello, the error that you saw first came from the flow sensor, which is mostly installed directly at the back of the water connection of the laser (unscrew the cover). You can also simply short-circuit the two cables of the flow sensor on the controller and short-circuit it. Or you should have checked the circuit protection from the power supply itself. That would probably have solved the problem. Furthermore, if the high-voltage power supply was switched on, to be on the safe side, you should wait a day before doing something on the connections, otherwise this can quickly end fatally (capacitors may still be charged). Furthermore, you shouldn't buy cheap power supplies. The power supply can also be tested with appropriate equipment.
I think you hit the nail on the head. These powersupplies are ... well dodgy at the best of times. You might get lucky but really it is luck. Even the better ones are not perfect. There is a reason Cloudray et Co. sell flyback transformers as parts. Got my machine secondhand myself and the original owner (who had no clue what he was doing to be fair) also gave me 3 extra PSU's next to the one that was mounted.
As to the water/cooling situation ... I see a lot of what looks like calcium deposit in the tube. That is a problem too. It should be distilled water and I would even add something to it to prevent bacterial and fungal growth (as warm water is the ideal medium for that sort of thing). Special additives exist, or in a pinch anti-freeze can do, to prevent such issues.
Those Red/Black laser cutters are known to have junk PSUs. After you replaced it a 2nd time I don't understand why you would purchase same PSU again for a 3rd time. What you're saving in time and ease because of pin out; doesn't make up for the amount of money you're spending and PSUs. When it fails again; and it will; buy a better PSU. See Matt's Workshop videos on this same laser cutter and what's he's done. Here's his video on replacing PSU ruclips.net/video/QvixkewqinA/видео.html
Can you give me a link to eBay to order PSU my machine has same probs cheers TREV
Actually the high voltage is more than 20,000 volts to start and around 9,000 to run!
Dude, get a chiller. The cheap pump and cooler deal is just asking for problems.
error 1
He looks like Mel Gibson
I would have those 2 dead power supplies in bits to find what went pop
There is a high voltage transformer which fails. They are available separately for around $25 www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDBTNXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_932IFb08FRS45
These are cheap Chinese crap power supplies, I repair them all the time. They are easy to repair. Also it’s not a 1000v that powers the tube, try 20,000v at 18ma to 30ma. You don’t seem to know a lot about this do you. Keep wasting your money of cheap power supplies.