Just getting into some 'hobbie' welding with the Handler 140. A thin sheet metal project came up, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate your re-emphasizing about alternating areas so the heat doesn't build up and to avoid warping. My test piece looked like a hat after running a few test worms, lol! The tip about grinding too much for better contact is solid advice about thinning the metal too much. Thanks for the tips!
@@RusticRestorationsI also have a HOBART HANDLER. However, it is a 220v/210. ("Dont make 'em anymore".) I have reached the conclusion quite some time ago that the .030 wire setup for this is not optimal for sheet metal. I REALLY wish I had the parts to change it over to .023/.024 just like yours...
@@RusticRestorations I already have their #. The wire liner should be changed as well. It's the $ issue that is holding me back now. I would imagine that they shipped it set up to run .030 wire because that is the size that "covers most of the bases".
Nice tips guys, Thanks very much. I always enjoy and look forward to all your Panel truck videos. I got my 53 Chevy Panel truck in sept. hadnt got to work on it much yet. I have to replace the front floor pans left & right side,toe board section,inner and outer cowl sections that they sell, and the panel abouve the windshield inside te truck,thank god they make that whole section. have to weld in some patchesin the front and rear fenders. My question is this: what section up front to i cut out and weld in first?? do i start with the inner and outer cowl panels,then the kick panels,then the floor boards ??? How would you attack all of this and in what order ??? Any help would be very much appreciated . I just bought a new titainium 140 welder that takes the argon gas bottle. I always just had a mig welder that had flux core ,no gas, so I upgraded to what I could afford. Thanks. Have you guys done any more work on the Panel truck ??
A good tip would be to start at the base and work your way out. I would purchase all the panels that need to be replaced up front so you can make sure they all fit before cutting holes. If your base is off it could make it more difficult for the panels that but up to it. I can send you pictures of what ours is setup at the beginning of January as its in storage for a bit here. We plan to start working on it again soon.
@@RusticRestorations Yes, please send me any pics. Not only is my floor boards,toeboard,kick panels, inner & outer cowl panels rust out but the braces and mounting brackets are rusted out. you can acually just pull the mounting bolt right out in the front floor board area. the frame seems to be good. Three of the truck tires dont hold air,one does, and I just have the truck sitting on all 4 floor dollies so I can move it a little if I have to. I been thinking about just taking them to a local tire shop and have them brake down the tires and reseal them ,then I can put them back on and keep the truck level. not keeping these tires anyway . Thanks for any help guys.
Just getting into some 'hobbie' welding with the Handler 140. A thin sheet metal project came up, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate your re-emphasizing about alternating areas so the heat doesn't build up and to avoid warping. My test piece looked like a hat after running a few test worms, lol! The tip about grinding too much for better contact is solid advice about thinning the metal too much. Thanks for the tips!
My only suggestion is to alternate your spots from end to end working your way to the center. This gives the metal a chance to cool down. Great video.
Great point! Thank you for the suggestion!
I have this same welder, restoring my '57 Chevy, good little welder, thanks for the video
We have been really happy with it. Love a 57 Chevy!
@@RusticRestorationsI also have a HOBART HANDLER.
However, it is a 220v/210. ("Dont make 'em anymore".)
I have reached the conclusion quite some time ago that the .030 wire setup for this is not optimal for sheet metal.
I REALLY wish I had the parts to change it over to .023/.024 just like yours...
@@lestergillis8171 I would give Hobart a call, they might be able to get you some parts. All you should need is the Drive Roll and the mig tip.
@@RusticRestorations I already have their #. The wire liner should be changed as well.
It's the $ issue that is holding me back now.
I would imagine that they shipped it set up to run .030 wire because that is the size that "covers most of the bases".
Looks great
Thank you!
thnx
Nice tips guys, Thanks very much. I always enjoy and look forward to all your Panel truck videos. I got my 53 Chevy Panel truck in sept. hadnt got to work on it much yet. I have to replace the front floor pans left & right side,toe board section,inner and outer cowl sections that they sell, and the panel abouve the windshield inside te truck,thank god they make that whole section. have to weld in some patchesin the front and rear fenders. My question is this: what section up front to i cut out and weld in first?? do i start with the inner and outer cowl panels,then the kick panels,then the floor boards ??? How would you attack all of this and in what order ??? Any help would be very much appreciated . I just bought a new titainium 140 welder that takes the argon gas bottle. I always just had a mig welder that had flux core ,no gas, so I upgraded to what I could afford. Thanks. Have you guys done any more work on the Panel truck ??
A good tip would be to start at the base and work your way out. I would purchase all the panels that need to be replaced up front so you can make sure they all fit before cutting holes. If your base is off it could make it more difficult for the panels that but up to it. I can send you pictures of what ours is setup at the beginning of January as its in storage for a bit here. We plan to start working on it again soon.
@@RusticRestorations Yes, please send me any pics. Not only is my floor boards,toeboard,kick panels, inner & outer cowl panels rust out but the braces and mounting brackets are rusted out. you can acually just pull the mounting bolt right out in the front floor board area. the frame seems to be good. Three of the truck tires dont hold air,one does, and I just have the truck sitting on all 4 floor dollies so I can move it a little if I have to. I been thinking about just taking them to a local tire shop and have them brake down the tires and reseal them ,then I can put them back on and keep the truck level. not keeping these tires anyway . Thanks for any help guys.
Always glad to help! I'll message you when we get them up front for pictures good luck on your project!
@@RusticRestorations Ok , Thank You very much, I appreciate it.
If just a hole fill with lead much easier
Theres safty glasses out now. Dont need the hood. For spot weldn
I'll add it to the shopping list
Can you weld sheet metal with fluks core
You definitely can but it introduces more heat which can cause warping.
It’s flux core 🤨
At least wear some long pants, proper shoes and some gloves. Dont have to be welding gauntlets, I prefer just leather work gloves.