Still have a Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Drop Off in my Massi Torro from 2002 still works absolutly fine ! Just some oil changes and a rebuild with stronger springs and never had an issue with it. You just can't beat quality ... great video btw !
Great video. i love the old Bombers. my buddy had the original Z1 with chrome stanchions as it was a downhillers prototype. when he ruined one stanchion the replacement was coated aluminum. looked silly but worked. lol
@@garysprojects Yes. the sad story though is that I had dust seals and inner air seals fr it. Traded them about 7 months before i snagged a swell 91 Rocky mountain Hammer with a that fork on it. Is that irony or self nukage?
@@thinkpadBentnoseTheBlind hahah damn I hate it when that happens ! Had the same thing happen to me a few times for builds , though I had the part but realized I sold it !
I'm also a Marzocchi re-builder and came here while trolling for Jr. T video's. Surprising how the internals are so similar. I noticed a lot of comments on here praising this guys work. And as much as I'd like to say he did a good job, you also missed a lot of crucial steps. For starter, you always use new dust seals on this old of a fork. Inside the dust seals are metal bands that will distort when you pry them out and put them back in. You also didn't use a seal push, but that's the last 2%. Further, you also didn't grease the O-rings when you reused them. This will lead to cracks and leaks on the 3rd + rebuild. I know parts are hard to find and that's part of the game. Other than that, I would have used Q tips to clean up the screw holes, changed out the screws themselves as they age and become brittle which will also lead to stripped threading and heads which are a pain to get out. And maybe invest in a new sticker kit you can find on ebay as well as a Dremal to polish the little bits. I'd say you're about 80% on this build but great video! Love the time lapses :)
Cool thanks for the tips! Yeah I didn’t put new seals in and just reused the same ones, they seem to be working well atm, no leaks or anything. I did put silicon grease on each o-ring, it might have been sped up or cut out of this video (there is a longer/voice over version in the Kona chute build vid), but yes it’s a good reminder for ppl that are watching this vid Good tip on the bolts and appreciate the comments it all will help people out 👍👍
@@garysprojects Let me ask, how badly stuck were the seals when you went to pry them out? I've had mix results... some just pop out easily, others I've mangled so bad you wouldn't recognize them.
Great video, btw at 10.52 seconds in, how do you know how far to screw the preload nut onto the damper stack when reassembling? I serviced my 1998 Z1s last night and it's not clear - do you just spin them on till a few threads show at the top or carry on till about halfway in? The manual doesn't say... I think I seated the nut about halfway on to the threads before I put the top cap back on... Any tips welcome :)
If I am understand right I just screw it enough to hold on - but it doesn’t really matter because the preload screw moves up and down after it’s all together After it’s all together what I do is unwind the preload screws all the way out before I install legs into the arch, that way I can have my left and right preload adjusters at the same angle Hope that makes sense haha!!
@@garysprojects thanks for the advice! Yes that makes sense. After a month mine seem ok based on how far I screwed on the nut when I serviced the forks. The preload on both sides still has about 30 rotations from loose to firm (which is what it had before I took them apart) so I must have done it ok. I'll do it your way next time though :)
The oil level is to be 50mm from the top of the stanchion. I used an Allen key with a piece of tape marked at 50mm, so when I insert it in the stanchion, the tape sits on the top edge and then fill up the oil so it just touches the end of the Allen key
Still have a Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Drop Off in my Massi Torro from 2002 still works absolutly fine ! Just some oil changes and a rebuild with stronger springs and never had an issue with it. You just can't beat quality ... great video btw !
Cheers mate ! Yep these old marzocchis last forever ! Still going strong
A surgeon at work. 10/10.
Hahaha ayyyy cheers homie!
Great video. i love the old Bombers. my buddy had the original Z1 with chrome stanchions as it was a downhillers prototype. when he ruined one stanchion the replacement was coated aluminum. looked silly but worked. lol
Thanks man ! Haha wow that sounds crazy !
@@garysprojects i'm rebuilding a 93ish maybe 94 Marzocchi zokes XC 600/700 the gold one right now. No seal so i have to go spring/elastomer oil bath
@@thinkpadBentnoseTheBlind nice classic fork
@@garysprojects Yes. the sad story though is that I had dust seals and inner air seals fr it. Traded them about 7 months before i snagged a swell 91 Rocky mountain Hammer with a that fork on it. Is that irony or self nukage?
@@thinkpadBentnoseTheBlind hahah damn I hate it when that happens ! Had the same thing happen to me a few times for builds , though I had the part but realized I sold it !
Top Job! I will follow your process
Cheers mate!
I'm also a Marzocchi re-builder and came here while trolling for Jr. T video's. Surprising how the internals are so similar.
I noticed a lot of comments on here praising this guys work. And as much as I'd like to say he did a good job, you also missed a lot of crucial steps.
For starter, you always use new dust seals on this old of a fork. Inside the dust seals are metal bands that will distort when you pry them out and put them back in. You also didn't use a seal push, but that's the last 2%.
Further, you also didn't grease the O-rings when you reused them. This will lead to cracks and leaks on the 3rd + rebuild.
I know parts are hard to find and that's part of the game.
Other than that, I would have used Q tips to clean up the screw holes, changed out the screws themselves as they age and become brittle which will also lead to stripped threading and heads which are a pain to get out. And maybe invest in a new sticker kit you can find on ebay as well as a Dremal to polish the little bits.
I'd say you're about 80% on this build but great video! Love the time lapses :)
Cool thanks for the tips! Yeah I didn’t put new seals in and just reused the same ones, they seem to be working well atm, no leaks or anything.
I did put silicon grease on each o-ring, it might have been sped up or cut out of this video (there is a longer/voice over version in the Kona chute build vid), but yes it’s a good reminder for ppl that are watching this vid
Good tip on the bolts and appreciate the comments it all will help people out 👍👍
p.s. here is the link for the voice over version: ruclips.net/video/y2G9OtB1Ssw/видео.html
@@garysprojects Let me ask, how badly stuck were the seals when you went to pry them out? I've had mix results... some just pop out easily, others I've mangled so bad you wouldn't recognize them.
@@Aznprada Hahah can’t tell if you’re trolling or not but I didn’t take them out
if you have some link to buy this oring or their mesurements plz post it
Thanks I'm looking to rebuild a 1998 Z2 Atom bomb, hope this helps a bit.
Cheers homie ! Good luck 👍
Looks fancy
Hahah cheers!
Great video, btw at 10.52 seconds in, how do you know how far to screw the preload nut onto the damper stack when reassembling? I serviced my 1998 Z1s last night and it's not clear - do you just spin them on till a few threads show at the top or carry on till about halfway in? The manual doesn't say... I think I seated the nut about halfway on to the threads before I put the top cap back on... Any tips welcome :)
If I am understand right I just screw it enough to hold on - but it doesn’t really matter because the preload screw moves up and down after it’s all together
After it’s all together what I do is unwind the preload screws all the way out before I install legs into the arch, that way I can have my left and right preload adjusters at the same angle
Hope that makes sense haha!!
@@garysprojects thanks for the advice! Yes that makes sense. After a month mine seem ok based on how far I screwed on the nut when I serviced the forks. The preload on both sides still has about 30 rotations from loose to firm (which is what it had before I took them apart) so I must have done it ok. I'll do it your way next time though :)
I need to do that to mine. Can you suggest a place to buy new seals for them? Mine are 1997 model.
I think ppl swear by “dr marzocchi “ I haven’t personally used it myself tho
How much fork oil did you use in each leg or what was the measurement to the tape on you guide?
50mm from the top , that’s what the tape was measured to 👍
Do you have any information on how to service a Z2 1997 model? there is not much information on them.
I don’t unfortunately, I’ve only done these and z4s
Is a liter of 7,5W fork oil enough to fill both legs?
Definitely, it’s way less than that
JUST SUBSCRIBED BRO!!!
Thanks brother!!!!
50mm from the top, after pumping the stem ... you need to get 50mm from the top?
The oil level is to be 50mm from the top of the stanchion. I used an Allen key with a piece of tape marked at 50mm, so when I insert it in the stanchion, the tape sits on the top edge and then fill up the oil so it just touches the end of the Allen key
@@garysprojects great work! I have a kona sex too and I have to restore it and your videos are very useful to me !!
@@PaoloBiagiotti1979 awesome ! Glad to help 😊
what's the difference between bam and light
Bam has 130mm travel the normal z1s have 100
@@garysprojects oh thanks also what's the difference between the Z1 drop off then I thought that was the 130
@@csm101000 drop offs are a later model, they have thicker stanchions and have air in em
can i buy theses please
Not right now sorry!
I have this fork
Me too