This guy (Livyu FPV) loves to receive broken stuff as well, you can sent the broken 4 in 1 to him and probably he'll do a video repairing it. I would love to see you interviewing him btw.
Hi Joshua, i would like to thank you for bringing me this hobby. Without guys like you this hobby would not have existed for me. Thank you for all your nice and calm explanation video's. Thanks to you the learning curf was managable. Keep up the good work josh. I hope you keep on making video's for a long time. Cheers!
Thank you :) I have hot air station and even had a chance to successfully salvage water damaged Holybro Tekko32 ESC board. Some practice with simpler SMD component boards definitely is required because stuff on ESC boards is pretty packed together. Also not all solder and flux is suitable for SMD soldering. However if someone have serious interest, he will learn how to do it right in quite short time. By the way there may be no continuity as well because sometimes FETs die remaining in closed state. But shorted dead FETs you can see in most case. The worst about ESC failures is in such circumstances they often catch fire and boards burn to crisp remaining nothing to salvage. Happened with me several times.
Fets are basically diodes so they usually fail open, you're right. I know how to fix smd but was given an sjrc f11 4k pro and I've been stumped because it's in pieces because my friend took it apart. I checked the top side of the esc but not the bottom which had an adhesive shock absorbent pad between it and the flcb. Thanks man. You showed an old dog a new trick
Also tip for working out if it's a motor or an ESC when still wired. Continuity between all the motor wires connected to the ESC. All should HAVE continuity (as motor coil resistance is VERY low). If a wire breaks, then its continuity to the others will be broken. If your multi-meter is good enough, you can also test resistance between the motor wires at the ESC connections. All coils should have approximately the same resistance. Last check for ESC on bench is capacitance check. Most multi-meters in continuity mode are actually a diode test mode. When negative connected to battery ground, touching positive to the ESC/motor connection will show increasing resistance readings till the capacitor is full (only a couple of seconds as the current in this test is so low). These should increase at the same rate on each motor connection. I have had a few ESC's de-solder SMD capacitors with a combination of heat and impact. For this reason I also silicon coat (goup) my ESC with Silicon 705 (more hold than just conformal coating and water resistant). As you can expect, have used this tip of FET connectivity for a while. Do this test on every new ESC before soldering ANY pads.
If you have actually had a motor blow smoke, then this test is absolutely critical to be done before you put in a new motor. Nothing sucks quite like removing a smoked motor, installing a brand new replacement, and watching another 25-30$ go up in smoke. Its also a good idea to test for shorts between the poles. 1-2, 2-3, 1-3...
@@wholev1251 Indeed it will. the windings themselves will provide continuity, but it should NOT show continuity across the terminals of the ESC with the motors Removed, unless a mosfet has failed short.
FYI: The bottom icon is representative of continuity. The speaker symbol is telling you there will be a tone when there is continuity. The symbol that looks like an omega sign stands for Ohms, a measurement of resistance.
I have tried to replace the blown MOSFETs on ESCs. This sometimes works if you are lucky but usually not. This is likely because when the MOSFETs fail they often take out the gate driver chip as well. Even with new FETS the ESC will just blow again because the driver itself is faulty.
Thanks Joshua. I was looking for a way to tell if an esc was bad. When I plug the battery the motor randomly spins like in pulses... I'm going to try today... Wish me luck
Hello Josh. Do you know of where to order new MOSFETs for ESC boards? Also, is there a way to upgrade them and get more power to flow to the motor pads?
Hi Joshua one of the 4 engines of my Emax Buzz is broken .... I tried to replace the engine but it does the same defect ... so can the esc card have a burned mosfet?
wanted to desolder and fix it myself as well but was not sure if only that one was broken or if more where broken. and what was even worse is that I couldn't figure out what type they where since it was a 6a one with from those very small ones and when looking under a microscope all texts where blurred or faded making it hard to read.
Josh, pls let me add something.... Last week from one day to the other motor no. 3 of one of my quads was not spinning anymore when arming my FC. Of course I immediately suspected that my ESC would be defective, but it wasn't. Reason for the malfunction was a corroded pin in the socket of the ESC. So the cable connecting my ESC with my FC had no contact anymore on the signal wire for motor no. 3. I solved that by using some contact spray to clean the contacts in the socket.
When I touch the positive side or the negative side the 6 motor tabs toward the battery pads have continuity it's brand new and flies great? That means I'm flying with a ESC with burnt Mosfets? All my Aikon AK32's have continuity but none of my Hobbywing. What's up with that? Serious question I'm being honest?
Hey Joshua, I plugged in my new drone with a smoke stopper. The light turned on and then smoked quickly and a motor wire came off, do I fix it and try again or did I get a faulty smoke stopper and my esc is fried? Would love some help! Thanks!
I’ve ordered some DYS 30 amp ESC‘s and one of which came with a different firmware and nothing really has changed except the replacement of that one ESC and now all my motors glitch and won’t arm properly
I had a bad ESC just yesterday. The motor would spin up, but it "hesitated" on start up. At first, I tried wiring a new motor up to the ESC and the problem seemed to go away, but then it reoccurred later during further testing. I replaced the ESC and the problem went away permanently. Would be nice if there was a way to find out if it's the motor or ESC that's damaged when BOTH still sorta work.
When I plug my 4 in 1 ESC alone to my smoke stopper and the lightbulb illuminates does that mean I have a short? I did the test in this video with no problems. My ESC will send power to my FC only when the smoke stopper is not plugged in. Thanks for your help! Great videos!
If the bulb stays lit permanently then the board may have a short. But sometimes the vTX or LEDs will pull enough current to light the bulb all by itself.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks Josh!! Those suggestions definitely contributed to the amp draw. My problem was the bulb I was using was rated to low for the amount of amps I was drawing. I switched to a 1157 and it seems to be working now.
I was trying to figure this out today. Great timing. However the problem Im having is that two different Crazybee f3 pro boards are having problems, or is it the motors. If an ESC has issues is it always 100%? After running for a while the motor just stops. unplug it, plug it back in it runs fine until it stops working again. Can be five minutes or 20. Not sure how to test to see if it’s the motors or the boards.
Hello,what would cause no esc tone on power up and the motors to spin only when I start them by spinning by hand? I was hovering about 3 feet off the ground then it just fell to the ground....I may have heard a crunching like sound too....lol..but everything is cosmetically normal and no apparent damage I also get the normal esc tone when connected to BLheli 32 sweet.
Joshua I dont know why my findings are different. I just snapped a prop on a branch and the motor was boiling hot and after it cooled down I tried again and it was spinning sporadically. I have an older tried and true Radio Shack multimeter and tested and saw that I did have some continuity so I was just about to order another ESC and I said heck let me test out one motor output that worked... and low and behold I got some continuity... so I said "actually though I'm not on speaking terms with myself after that branch incident" I must be wrong so I wired up an old motor to see if she would spin and... yes it works... Its an IFlight suceex 4 in 1... I remeber you did a video trying to burn this one out and had a hard time doing it... but why the heck am I getting some continuity but yet the ESC seems fine... I have also seen a few other videos claiming the same thing. None the less off to order a new motor (probably a set cause I'm not having too much faith in the AKK model anymore and will stick to I-Flight). Just wanted to leave this comment just in case you want to follow up... you brought me into this game and I trust you will be able to figure this one out. Ping me if you want pics of the MM readings.
Hi Joshua, I have been following your videos for quite a while and thank you you are a true help on this world. I have an issue with my build, indeed I have plugged my AIO F405-CTR Matek flight controller to my ESCs and the motors won’t spin, actually none of them is spinning... can you help?
Great video JB. I actually have 3 questionable ESCs that I’m gonna go check out. **************** I would love to see some more hardware trouble shooting videos like this! 👍👍
Just have one of my motors disconnecting on hard turns and replacing motor then I saw lot of solder on my esc. Looks like previous desoldering have spread some solder on my esc. Crazy. Testing tomorrow
It looks like the motor2 mosfet driver could also be broken, or is that some dirt on the chip? Do you have bad mosfets on motor2 output as well? replacing mosfets might not be enough sometimes, I once had to replace the mostfet driver and some resistors to get it working, they can all be done as long as the F1/F3 MCU isn't broken, because that is very difficult to re-flash as blheli32 is closed source.
After this testing did not determine my ESC problem, I checked the voltage on the ESC signal wire. All showed 2.6V except the ESC that appeared bad was only 0.6V. Apparently I had shorted it during another repair. Queue Bardwell resource mapping video!
Hey JB, I had an issue with a brand new HGLRC F428 stack recently where it got a few drops of water on it and when i armed it (after i plugged it in) one of the ESC's on the board smoked the back right motor.. Unfortunately i didnt see it smoke i just noticed it had bound up so to test the ESC i swapped motors and POOF, smoked another one (this time realizing that that had happened to both motors)... have you ever seen an ESC or a 4 in 1 ESC do something like that? I will never use the swap motor method again because of this... lost not 1 but 2 very expensive motors...
Hello, thank you for your many informative videos that have helped me a lot in my hobby. I have a question. From one flight to the next I have a high-frequency whistle while flying and the engines are getting warmer than in the past. No crash etc. Does the ESC cause problems?
I got your 4in1 and flight controller, attached the battery with wrong polarity on a s and now it takes a dump on 6s when i flip and I get flickering osd. Any easy fix? :) Thanks and I love your videos
@@JoshuaBardwell darn. Is there any protection for the fc or it fried too you think? I was hoping those were diodes near the battery pads on the 4in1 and they could take 12V. Unlikely I know. :) Cest la vie I suppose. Thanks
Ok my 4in1 speedex won't arm 2 of 4 motors? I get the two power blips on plugin..but no 3 tone on the two motors? In Blheli I can't see them just the two that work how can I sort this please.. Many thanks
I love you, Bardwell. ok so I had a hard time soldering, bad tip, iron too cold, heat too long. ESC got too hot to squeeze. I have continuity on every pad now. :(
Wow, what a coincidence. I am an appliance repairman. Today I had a Microwave that wouldn't heat. During testing I found the high voltage diode was shorted. This prevents the 1.2k Vac from the transformer to form a sawtooth pulse needed by the magnetron to generate microwaves.
Sorry not related to the video but i have 2 questions. I looked and looked for your video but i cant find the one to eliminate the dead spot at the bottom of the throttle stick. I know its a cli thing but cant find your video on it. Also when flipped over and activate turtle mode on one quad the motors wont reverse. Is there a workaround for this? Please any help would be appreciated
To eliminate deadband, lower the "stick low threshold" in the receiver tab. It should be just slightly higher than the value of the throttle channel when the throttle is all the way down. ruclips.net/video/jpuiKcQJ70s/видео.html That video has full instructions. If the motors don't reverse then most likely the ESC's don't support dshot commands.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank you. Unfortunately i know the esc support dshot 600. I use the same one in another build and it works fine. Will contact race day quads and ask them for help since i bought it from them. Thank you again for answering. You da man homie!
Hi, I don't know if my problem is this, but I don't have idea, so I'm asking... I have this issue: when I test my motors in betaflight, they spin. When I try to fly in the field, two of them do not spin. I guess ESC and motors work, since in BF they spin, so what could it be?
@@JoshuaBardwell thank you, I checked it all, dismounted it, re-soldered pdb and ESCs. ESCs seem to work, motors seem to work, I fear the problem is in some bad connection inside the board, probably happened after a heavy crash I had last monday. This is what happens: when I plug the 4s Lipo, sometimes FC reacts, sometimes does not. If I touch the sleepy board, then it wakes, and lights and sounds work, along with the motors. I think easier way will be to get a new FC stack, I'm not that good at soldering. So far, thank you, I will write if I find out different ways to solve this. Cheers from Italy, R
Hey Fpvknowitall I hope you can help me. 2 of my 4 in 1 escs are not responding upon plug in. No motor move, no beep. Powers up fc vtx, detects all escs in blheli s and I’m able to flash them. Just no motor response. Thought?
If you don't hear any beep at all from those motors, not even the 1st-three beeps, then the motor is wired up wrong, the motor is damaged, or the ESC is damaged.
Hi Joshua. Thank you so much for the great video as always I'm learning something from you .so question i dont have extra esc for the mosfets but do you know where i could buy from please
When you say damaged esc you mean that one of the motors doesn't spin at all right? If I have a slightly damaged/bad esc(dalrc engine) it doesn't mean that I can check it this way right?
I have this weird issue with my AIO whoop board where I solder the camera ground and the esc won’t work . Any ideas what could be ? I appreciate any help
Hi Joshua, I don't really know if you answer RUclips comments/questions, but here goes anyways. I've built a new drone with a 4in1 BLHeli ESC, and the drone flies fine, just needs a little tuning. Hover is very stable. However, when looking at the logs, during hover, 3 motors run at 1350 PWM, while the 4th runs at 1500 PWM. Weight distribution is perfectly centered. So I swapped the ESCs around, and sure enough, the problem followed the swapped ESC and now another motor runs at 1500 PWM. This motor is also heating up faster than the other 3. So even if the drone flies fine, the ESC is faulty? All 4 ESCs of this 4in1 were configured at the same time with FC passthrough. Seen anything like this? Thanks!
If the motor is burned the ESC start beeping constantly and the reicever dont show the on ligth??? I tried a new ESC and same beeping and no on ligth on reicever
Sometimes you just gotta pop the heat sink off scrub the whole thing and resolder. Or i soldered bad the first time. Because i was getting some white waves washing over my video and persisted after an FC swap. Or i did something wrong with a cap on the lead and pads because i just have one new one on now.
Rockford Fosgate invented the MOSFET as far as I can remember. They were the first amplifier manufacturer that used them for ramping the power and for power flow regulation to eliminate the "THUMP" when you turned on an old school power booster.
Hi! I’ve just bought a hobbywing 4in1 esc 60a combo and I don’t know, or remember why the esc doesn’t beep anymore at all... It’s recognized in BLHeli32 but can’t read any configuration of each esc. I have updated the FC controller to betaflight 4.2.2 and I’m not sure if it’s from this moment the 4in 1 esc went bad...or when I tried to bind the r-xsr with my jumper many times so I had to connect and disconnect my LiPo a lot of times with one hand and maybe fried the esc...?... Has anybody had this experience ? Thank you for your help and thank you for your fantastic videos Joshua...
If the ESC doesn't beep at all when you appy power, then the ESC may be fried. The motor does need to be wired up to make the beeps though. Otherwise the ESC can't beep.
When I do a continuity test and I put the positive probe to the positive battery pad and negative to the negative battery pad I do not get continuity, but if I use the negative probe on the positive battery pad and positive to the negative battery tab I get continuity, any idea? This is a brand new spedix 4in1 esc.
Amigo necesito una ayuda me regalaron dos esc 4en 1 pero no sé de cuántos amperes son como hago para saber sin son de de 20 o 30 o 45 amperes ayuda por favor
I have an esc I'm not sure about , but have tested it like you show with no problems. The deal is when I put this build together I used the smoke stopper first time I put a batt to it. It sounded like there was a bad connection. The esc doesn't finish booting. Without the stopper, it sounds normal. I used the stopper on another couple of kwads and everything was fine. The last fc I used with this esc got fried, I'm not sure how, so I'm a bit wary of this thing even though I don't get any continuity anywhere when I test. Anybody have any thoughts??
😊hey how are you I got some old vintage rc car esc I was wondering if you would be willing to take a look at them see if you can get them working again 😊.. if your interested please let me know how much an we can get them to you.. thank you..
When I test for continuity on my tekko 32 4in1. I only get a short beep on the multimeter on some pads. Not a solid long beep. Any thoughts on the short beep? Do you think it’s shorted?
Hot air gun for SMD/SMT rework, flux, and replacement fets is all that's needed. Blown fet us literally a 90 second fix. I've always flown Airbot ESCs since the first gen Wraith32, since all quads had the same ESCs on them and they all used the same Fets I just made a order for 25 fets from a USA based distributer and when one failed it was a quick simple fix. The first gen wraith32 was fantastic but fets would pop on them for no reason other then that they was bullet proof. Now im flying the 60a Succex esc and the Airbot Furling Airport esc on pretty much all my builds... Out of 25 or so builds most right now have the Metal fet Succex 4 in 1 and the rest the Furling Airport... I have a couple older builds that are running the Robotdog blheli32 escs. I bought a strip of 15 units of IRF7480M Fets as the Furling Airport and the 60a Succex esc use them as well as the Tekko F3 metal fet esc. The fets are about USD $2.00 for 1 and for 15 i paid $1.85 each (if you buy thousands lol they get down to about $0.80 cents and thank God or we would be paying a lot more for escs.) Anyhow 9 times out of ten when a esc fails it's a popped fet. Rarely does a gate driver MCU fail and on 4 in 1s that are inside the frame caps are getting knocked off. When they fail it's a fet most of the time and that's easy once you have spare fets and the rework station the other failure that happens be it rarely is a burnt trace in the board and at that point it's parts. However that is rare with the high current high copper content boards we now use but was something that happened a lot say 3 years ago in the days of the 20A escs that we was asking WAY To much from. The Succex 60A has been amazing in every single way and totally the most reliable 4 in 1 i have ever used and i have not had but one pop two fets on the same output replaced them and everyone has been totally rock solid. The Furling Airport has been perfect as well except for a lifted motor pad on one. The Robotdog ESCs blow fets a lot and I have replaced about 25 fets on them in total. At one point i had them on 6 builds and i flew those builds a lot and fets popping was somthing that just happened.. Turtle mode and you was going to pop fets from time to time and it was almost always the top fet on motor pole 1 and 3 when you popped one it would every time pop the two outside top fets never just one failed fet and that's odd because normally when a fet pops it's normally 1 and with no consistancy to what one goes. Popping 2 fets on the same output doesn't happen much if ever but on Robotdog ESCs it was automatic if you had a failure that was two fets that had to be replaced.
Had bad luck with first gen Airbot. The Wraith32 and Ori32 lines. Random blow-ups and shorted MCUs on crashes. The cramped layout doesn't help in tracing and repairing anyway. Ditched them since then. Currently running second gen Airbot ESCs, the Furling32 45A. Reasonably priced, simpler layout, and last longer. Though I hate the fact that they use the smaller SMD resistors and stuff, which is a pain in the butt to work with. I'm surprised that most repairs you do are just replacing the FETs, because I rarely just have to replace the FETs only. Most of the time, I have to replace the gate inrush limiter and in severe case, the gate driver too.
I have a esc 4in1 that the M1 pad have some problem, when it reaches 40% throttle restart fc, the others pads m2, m3 and m4 are ok, can support 100%. Do you know how fix it?
You can try this or check all solder connections and move the motors around as well. also EMI noise can cause this. If you shield the ESC and the flight controller with copper tape it can prevent this. Make sure you dont short anything with the shielding.
@Joshua Bardwell Any idea on how to set the esc start up tone on the blade torrent to the imperial march sound ? im a complete noob and need some help !
@Joshua Bardwell *Update* the esc's are skywalker 20 4 in1 and I flashed the esc in the blheli config with version 4.85 imperial march and set beeper strength to 91 and the start up tone is now the imperial march but now my torrents motors wont spin, again im a real noob at this and its my first time figuring this stuff out any help would be awesome, I did put the version back to 4.9 and the motors are working normal ! not sure what to do to get this to work the way i want it lol
After a short circuiting on the output, my ESC now start with 3 beeps instead of one long beep. Also the motors are not running at full speed anymore. Is it broken? :(
It's hard to tell just based on the info you're giving here. If you want to email me we can look into it. I would suggest sending a video of the startup beeps.
Joshua Bardwell Josh can you help me? I have tyro129 problem here is a link, please help me if you can, thanks! ruclips.net/video/PWBUSdpT3zY/видео.html
Awesome quick tip, and thank you for bringing a previously unknown to the light of so many wondering RUclipsr's I hope to see more quick tips and unknown channel's brought to are attention 🥃cheers🍻
Connectivity mode in a multimeter is second only to voltage measurement in terms of usefulness. I got small a broken screen multimeter I still use for its connectivity mode. My best multimeters are a Metrix MTX3282 & MTX3283B, they look like Star Trek tricorders and can be completely controlled with one hand. haku.co.uk/pics/MTX3282.jpg
When new they were more expensive than Fat Shark HDO's, but I lucked out on eBay auctions. Perhaps my favourite feature they have is the ability to show watts by measuring volts and amps at the same time.
Hey Joshua, I recently got a hot air rework station and hope to use it like livyu to fix quad parts when they break. Any chance you'd be willing to send that ESC or maybe some others my way to try it out? I'd be happy to pay for shipping!
This guy (Livyu FPV) loves to receive broken stuff as well, you can sent the broken 4 in 1 to him and probably he'll do a video repairing it. I would love to see you interviewing him btw.
Hi Joshua, i would like to thank you for bringing me this hobby. Without guys like you this hobby would not have existed for me. Thank you for all your nice and calm explanation video's. Thanks to you the learning curf was managable. Keep up the good work josh. I hope you keep on making video's for a long time. Cheers!
Useful still today. Fried an ESC and a motor and thanks to this test I did not fried another motor trying to test if it was the motor or the ESC.
Thank you :) I have hot air station and even had a chance to successfully salvage water damaged Holybro Tekko32 ESC board. Some practice with simpler SMD component boards definitely is required because stuff on ESC boards is pretty packed together. Also not all solder and flux is suitable for SMD soldering. However if someone have serious interest, he will learn how to do it right in quite short time. By the way there may be no continuity as well because sometimes FETs die remaining in closed state. But shorted dead FETs you can see in most case. The worst about ESC failures is in such circumstances they often catch fire and boards burn to crisp remaining nothing to salvage. Happened with me several times.
Fets are basically diodes so they usually fail open, you're right. I know how to fix smd but was given an sjrc f11 4k pro and I've been stumped because it's in pieces because my friend took it apart. I checked the top side of the esc but not the bottom which had an adhesive shock absorbent pad between it and the flcb. Thanks man. You showed an old dog a new trick
Also tip for working out if it's a motor or an ESC when still wired.
Continuity between all the motor wires connected to the ESC. All should HAVE continuity (as motor coil resistance is VERY low). If a wire breaks, then its continuity to the others will be broken.
If your multi-meter is good enough, you can also test resistance between the motor wires at the ESC connections. All coils should have approximately the same resistance.
Last check for ESC on bench is capacitance check. Most multi-meters in continuity mode are actually a diode test mode. When negative connected to battery ground, touching positive to the ESC/motor connection will show increasing resistance readings till the capacitor is full (only a couple of seconds as the current in this test is so low). These should increase at the same rate on each motor connection.
I have had a few ESC's de-solder SMD capacitors with a combination of heat and impact. For this reason I also silicon coat (goup) my ESC with Silicon 705 (more hold than just conformal coating and water resistant).
As you can expect, have used this tip of FET connectivity for a while. Do this test on every new ESC before soldering ANY pads.
Can you help me? Tyro129 problem!
ruclips.net/video/PWBUSdpT3zY/видео.html
All 4esc are found in blheli!
So could be a motors or bad solder?
Beacuse sometimes motor number 4turns ok but other 3 are not moving!
If you have actually had a motor blow smoke, then this test is absolutely critical to be done before you put in a new motor. Nothing sucks quite like removing a smoked motor, installing a brand new replacement, and watching another 25-30$ go up in smoke.
Its also a good idea to test for shorts between the poles. 1-2, 2-3, 1-3...
Correct me if I am wrong, but once I have the motors connected, it also shows continuity between the poles, is that not right?
@@wholev1251 Indeed it will. the windings themselves will provide continuity, but it should NOT show continuity across the terminals of the ESC with the motors Removed, unless a mosfet has failed short.
Same happened with me
I missed JC Project Blue Falcon
I think everybody does.
RIP project blue falcon 😢
Brother thanks in behalf of all fpv drivers! 🙏
FYI:
The bottom icon is representative of continuity. The speaker symbol is telling you there will be a tone when there is continuity. The symbol that looks like an omega sign stands for Ohms, a measurement of resistance.
I have tried to replace the blown MOSFETs on ESCs. This sometimes works if you are lucky but usually not. This is likely because when the MOSFETs fail they often take out the gate driver chip as well. Even with new FETS the ESC will just blow again because the driver itself is faulty.
Very helpful, was able to diagnose my broken flywoo 1s baby nano this way. Real shame, survived like 5 flights.
Thanks Joshua. I was looking for a way to tell if an esc was bad. When I plug the battery the motor randomly spins like in pulses... I'm going to try today... Wish me luck
Hello Josh. Do you know of where to order new MOSFETs for ESC boards? Also, is there a way to upgrade them and get more power to flow to the motor pads?
Wish I'd have seen this video before smoking out another one of my motors, but extremely useful information for the future. Thanks as always Josh!
Hi Joshua
one of the 4 engines of my Emax Buzz is broken .... I tried to replace the engine but it does the same defect ... so can the esc card have a burned mosfet?
Yes definitely
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you. When I replace the esc card I have to reconfigure some parameter in betafly? sorry but I'm a beginner ...
@@JoshuaBardwell Ok Joshua ESC BUZZ REPLACED .... now it flies which is a jewel ....
wanted to desolder and fix it myself as well but was not sure if only that one was broken or if more where broken.
and what was even worse is that I couldn't figure out what type they where since it was a 6a one with from those very small ones and when looking under a microscope all texts where blurred or faded making it hard to read.
Josh, pls let me add something....
Last week from one day to the other motor no. 3 of one of my quads was not spinning anymore when arming my FC. Of course I immediately suspected that my ESC would be defective, but it wasn't. Reason for the malfunction was a corroded pin in the socket of the ESC. So the cable connecting my ESC with my FC had no contact anymore on the signal wire for motor no. 3. I solved that by using some contact spray to clean the contacts in the socket.
When I touch the positive side or the negative side the 6 motor tabs toward the battery pads have continuity it's brand new and flies great? That means I'm flying with a ESC with burnt Mosfets? All my Aikon AK32's have continuity but none of my Hobbywing. What's up with that? Serious question I'm being honest?
WHY do fets die? Does it have to do with the impact in a crash or it it something related to electrical flow?
Hey Joshua, I plugged in my new drone with a smoke stopper. The light turned on and then smoked quickly and a motor wire came off, do I fix it and try again or did I get a faulty smoke stopper and my esc is fried? Would love some help! Thanks!
I’ve ordered some DYS 30 amp ESC‘s and one of which came with a different firmware and nothing really has changed except the replacement of that one ESC and now all my motors glitch and won’t arm properly
If you were to replace that mosfet, with the components on the other side fall off?
I had a bad ESC just yesterday. The motor would spin up, but it "hesitated" on start up. At first, I tried wiring a new motor up to the ESC and the problem seemed to go away, but then it reoccurred later during further testing. I replaced the ESC and the problem went away permanently. Would be nice if there was a way to find out if it's the motor or ESC that's damaged when BOTH still sorta work.
When I plug my 4 in 1 ESC alone to my smoke stopper and the lightbulb illuminates does that mean I have a short? I did the test in this video with no problems. My ESC will send power to my FC only when the smoke stopper is not plugged in. Thanks for your help! Great videos!
If the bulb stays lit permanently then the board may have a short. But sometimes the vTX or LEDs will pull enough current to light the bulb all by itself.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks Josh!! Those suggestions definitely contributed to the amp draw. My problem was the bulb I was using was rated to low for the amount of amps I was drawing. I switched to a 1157 and it seems to be working now.
I was trying to figure this out today. Great timing.
However the problem Im having is that two different Crazybee f3 pro boards are having problems, or is it the motors.
If an ESC has issues is it always 100%?
After running for a while the motor just stops. unplug it, plug it back in it runs fine until it stops working again. Can be five minutes or 20.
Not sure how to test to see if it’s the motors or the boards.
Thank you Joshua good to know
Hello,what would cause no esc tone on power up and the motors to spin only when I start them by spinning by hand?
I was hovering about 3 feet off the ground then it just fell to the ground....I may have heard a crunching like sound too....lol..but everything is cosmetically normal and no apparent damage
I also get the normal esc tone when connected to BLheli 32 sweet.
It sounds like your ESC is dead. I would replace it.
Joshua I dont know why my findings are different. I just snapped a prop on a branch and the motor was boiling hot and after it cooled down I tried again and it was spinning sporadically. I have an older tried and true Radio Shack multimeter and tested and saw that I did have some continuity so I was just about to order another ESC and I said heck let me test out one motor output that worked... and low and behold I got some continuity... so I said "actually though I'm not on speaking terms with myself after that branch incident" I must be wrong so I wired up an old motor to see if she would spin and... yes it works... Its an IFlight suceex 4 in 1... I remeber you did a video trying to burn this one out and had a hard time doing it... but why the heck am I getting some continuity but yet the ESC seems fine... I have also seen a few other videos claiming the same thing. None the less off to order a new motor (probably a set cause I'm not having too much faith in the AKK model anymore and will stick to I-Flight). Just wanted to leave this comment just in case you want to follow up... you brought me into this game and I trust you will be able to figure this one out. Ping me if you want pics of the MM readings.
Hi Joshua, I have been following your videos for quite a while and thank you you are a true help on this world. I have an issue with my build, indeed I have plugged my AIO F405-CTR Matek flight controller to my ESCs and the motors won’t spin, actually none of them is spinning... can you help?
I have a quad where the motors spin but only to about 50% of their previous capacity...is that damage or what?
My motor on cinecan doesn't always spin. Its iffy.. esc did melt a lil. Think velcro hair touched it
Great video JB. I actually have 3 questionable ESCs that I’m gonna go check out.
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I would love to see some more hardware trouble shooting videos like this! 👍👍
Just have one of my motors disconnecting on hard turns and replacing motor then I saw lot of solder on my esc. Looks like previous desoldering have spread some solder on my esc. Crazy. Testing tomorrow
It looks like the motor2 mosfet driver could also be broken, or is that some dirt on the chip? Do you have bad mosfets on motor2 output as well? replacing mosfets might not be enough sometimes, I once had to replace the mostfet driver and some resistors to get it working, they can all be done as long as the F1/F3 MCU isn't broken, because that is very difficult to re-flash as blheli32 is closed source.
Gr8 video😀, did you fry your esc using your motors? This looks like 30 AMP is not enough for JB2407 monster
After this testing did not determine my ESC problem, I checked the voltage on the ESC signal wire. All showed 2.6V except the ESC that appeared bad was only 0.6V. Apparently I had shorted it during another repair. Queue Bardwell resource mapping video!
Hey JB, I had an issue with a brand new HGLRC F428 stack recently where it got a few drops of water on it and when i armed it (after i plugged it in) one of the ESC's on the board smoked the back right motor.. Unfortunately i didnt see it smoke i just noticed it had bound up so to test the ESC i swapped motors and POOF, smoked another one (this time realizing that that had happened to both motors)... have you ever seen an ESC or a 4 in 1 ESC do something like that? I will never use the swap motor method again because of this... lost not 1 but 2 very expensive motors...
Hello, thank you for your many informative videos that have helped me a lot in my hobby. I have a question. From one flight to the next I have a high-frequency whistle while flying and the engines are getting warmer than in the past. No crash etc. Does the ESC cause problems?
Will this work for a 1/10 scale rc that's running a servo too?
I got your 4in1 and flight controller, attached the battery with wrong polarity on a s and now it takes a dump on 6s when i flip and I get flickering osd. Any easy fix? :) Thanks and I love your videos
No, I'm afraid you fried it by hooking up polarity wrong. It's lucky it flies at all.
@@JoshuaBardwell darn. Is there any protection for the fc or it fried too you think? I was hoping those were diodes near the battery pads on the 4in1 and they could take 12V. Unlikely I know. :) Cest la vie I suppose. Thanks
Ok my 4in1 speedex won't arm 2 of 4 motors?
I get the two power blips on plugin..but no 3 tone on the two motors?
In Blheli I can't see them just the two that work how can I sort this please..
Many thanks
what if you have put conformal coating all over the esc? How can you check ?
Scrape through the conformal with the tip of your multimeter probe.
What do you think about the new frsky access protocol?
I love you, Bardwell. ok so I had a hard time soldering, bad tip, iron too cold, heat too long. ESC got too hot to squeeze. I have continuity on every pad now. :(
Wow, what a coincidence. I am an appliance repairman. Today I had a Microwave that wouldn't heat. During testing I found the high voltage diode was shorted. This prevents the 1.2k Vac from the transformer to form a sawtooth pulse needed by the magnetron to generate microwaves.
What would stop a drone from binding?
Sorry not related to the video but i have 2 questions. I looked and looked for your video but i cant find the one to eliminate the dead spot at the bottom of the throttle stick. I know its a cli thing but cant find your video on it. Also when flipped over and activate turtle mode on one quad the motors wont reverse. Is there a workaround for this? Please any help would be appreciated
To eliminate deadband, lower the "stick low threshold" in the receiver tab. It should be just slightly higher than the value of the throttle channel when the throttle is all the way down.
ruclips.net/video/jpuiKcQJ70s/видео.html
That video has full instructions.
If the motors don't reverse then most likely the ESC's don't support dshot commands.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank you. Unfortunately i know the esc support dshot 600. I use the same one in another build and it works fine. Will contact race day quads and ask them for help since i bought it from them. Thank you again for answering. You da man homie!
Super quick on this video today.
Is a Motor twitch and a getting hot ESC a indefinite Sign ? Or can that be Software?
Hi, I don't know if my problem is this, but I don't have idea, so I'm asking... I have this issue: when I test my motors in betaflight, they spin. When I try to fly in the field, two of them do not spin. I guess ESC and motors work, since in BF they spin, so what could it be?
Make sure you're using DSHOT so you don't have to calibrate the ESC.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank you, I checked it all, dismounted it, re-soldered pdb and ESCs. ESCs seem to work, motors seem to work, I fear the problem is in some bad connection inside the board, probably happened after a heavy crash I had last monday. This is what happens: when I plug the 4s Lipo, sometimes FC reacts, sometimes does not. If I touch the sleepy board, then it wakes, and lights and sounds work, along with the motors. I think easier way will be to get a new FC stack, I'm not that good at soldering. So far, thank you, I will write if I find out different ways to solve this. Cheers from Italy, R
Hey Fpvknowitall I hope you can help me. 2 of my 4 in 1 escs are not responding upon plug in. No motor move, no beep. Powers up fc vtx, detects all escs in blheli s and I’m able to flash them. Just no motor response. Thought?
If you don't hear any beep at all from those motors, not even the 1st-three beeps, then the motor is wired up wrong, the motor is damaged, or the ESC is damaged.
Great tip, Joshua! Thanks a lot! 😊
Hi Joshua. Thank you so much for the great video as always I'm learning something from you .so question i dont have extra esc for the mosfets but do you know where i could buy from please
When you say damaged esc you mean that one of the motors doesn't spin at all right? If I have a slightly damaged/bad esc(dalrc engine) it doesn't mean that I can check it this way right?
Hey Joshua! What about individual ESC's? Is there a easy way too figure out which one is bad? I have a nasty yaw twitch.
Yaw twitch usually is caused by excess gyro noise, not a bad ESC or motor. If it's a motor issue you will see an arm dip most commonly.
I definitely learned something today! Thank you!
I have this weird issue with my AIO whoop board where I solder the camera ground and the esc won’t work . Any ideas what could be ?
I appreciate any help
Hi Joshua, I don't really know if you answer RUclips comments/questions, but here goes anyways. I've built a new drone with a 4in1 BLHeli ESC, and the drone flies fine, just needs a little tuning. Hover is very stable. However, when looking at the logs, during hover, 3 motors run at 1350 PWM, while the 4th runs at 1500 PWM. Weight distribution is perfectly centered. So I swapped the ESCs around, and sure enough, the problem followed the swapped ESC and now another motor runs at 1500 PWM. This motor is also heating up faster than the other 3.
So even if the drone flies fine, the ESC is faulty? All 4 ESCs of this 4in1 were configured at the same time with FC passthrough. Seen anything like this?
Thanks!
If you swapped only the ESC then yes I agree the ESC may be damaged.
Can you do that test with the motor still soldered to the esc or would you have to de-solder them?
Yes you can. Just don't plug a battery in.
Can i replace a 20 amp esc with another 20 amp esc of other brand. I can find the ones that are on my now but one has gone bad
If the motor is burned the ESC start beeping constantly and the reicever dont show the on ligth??? I tried a new ESC and same beeping and no on ligth on reicever
Sometimes you just gotta pop the heat sink off scrub the whole thing and resolder. Or i soldered bad the first time. Because i was getting some white waves washing over my video and persisted after an FC swap. Or i did something wrong with a cap on the lead and pads because i just have one new one on now.
Rockford Fosgate invented the MOSFET as far as I can remember.
They were the first amplifier manufacturer that used them for ramping the power and for power flow regulation to eliminate the "THUMP" when you turned on an old school power booster.
This must be the shortest video you have ever done! ^^
I guess I could use this method on an skateboard Vesc/esc? Flipsky 6.6 to be precise.
what about if i cant get a read out with HELI configurator?
Hi! I’ve just bought a hobbywing 4in1 esc 60a combo and I don’t know, or remember why the esc doesn’t beep anymore at all... It’s recognized in BLHeli32 but can’t read any configuration of each esc. I have updated the FC controller to betaflight 4.2.2 and I’m not sure if it’s from this moment the 4in 1 esc went bad...or when I tried to bind the r-xsr with my jumper many times so I had to connect and disconnect my LiPo a lot of times with one hand and maybe fried the esc...?... Has anybody had this experience ? Thank you for your help and thank you for your fantastic videos Joshua...
If the ESC doesn't beep at all when you appy power, then the ESC may be fried. The motor does need to be wired up to make the beeps though. Otherwise the ESC can't beep.
Joshua Bardwell Thank you Joshua. And the cause might come from when I’ve connected and disconnected several times the Lipo to try to bind the r-xsr?
When I do a continuity test and I put the positive probe to the positive battery pad and negative to the negative battery pad I do not get continuity, but if I use the negative probe on the positive battery pad and positive to the negative battery tab I get continuity, any idea? This is a brand new spedix 4in1 esc.
Tahir FPV Sounds like there's a diode to help protect the circuit from when you accidentally plug the battery in backwards?
@@jyunte That's what diodes do :)' one way traffic in DC world, bother ways in AC world.
@@cavman7 Maybe I misunderstood your reply, but yes, that's what diodes do, hence my suggestion to the OP.
Amigo necesito una ayuda me regalaron dos esc 4en 1 pero no sé de cuántos amperes son como hago para saber sin son de de 20 o 30 o 45 amperes ayuda por favor
I have an esc I'm not sure about , but have tested it like you show with no problems.
The deal is when I put this build together I used the smoke stopper first time I put a batt to it. It sounded like there was a bad connection. The esc doesn't finish booting. Without the stopper, it sounds normal. I used the stopper on another couple of kwads and everything was fine.
The last fc I used with this esc got fried, I'm not sure how, so I'm a bit wary of this thing even though I don't get any continuity anywhere when I test.
Anybody have any thoughts??
Thank you I feel more able to fix my quad now .
😊hey how are you I got some old vintage rc car esc I was wondering if you would be willing to take a look at them see if you can get them working again 😊.. if your interested please let me know how much an we can get them to you.. thank you..
When I test for continuity on my tekko 32 4in1. I only get a short beep on the multimeter on some pads. Not a solid long beep. Any thoughts on the short beep? Do you think it’s shorted?
It's capacitors charging. No worry.
Hot air gun for SMD/SMT rework, flux, and replacement fets is all that's needed. Blown fet us literally a 90 second fix.
I've always flown Airbot ESCs since the first gen Wraith32, since all quads had the same ESCs on them and they all used the same Fets I just made a order for 25 fets from a USA based distributer and when one failed it was a quick simple fix.
The first gen wraith32 was fantastic but fets would pop on them for no reason other then that they was bullet proof.
Now im flying the 60a Succex esc and the Airbot Furling Airport esc on pretty much all my builds... Out of 25 or so builds most right now have the Metal fet Succex 4 in 1 and the rest the Furling Airport... I have a couple older builds that are running the Robotdog blheli32 escs.
I bought a strip of 15 units of IRF7480M Fets as the Furling Airport and the 60a Succex esc use them as well as the Tekko F3 metal fet esc.
The fets are about USD $2.00 for 1 and for 15 i paid $1.85 each (if you buy thousands lol they get down to about $0.80 cents and thank God or we would be paying a lot more for escs.)
Anyhow 9 times out of ten when a esc fails it's a popped fet. Rarely does a gate driver MCU fail and on 4 in 1s that are inside the frame caps are getting knocked off.
When they fail it's a fet most of the time and that's easy once you have spare fets and the rework station the other failure that happens be it rarely is a burnt trace in the board and at that point it's parts. However that is rare with the high current high copper content boards we now use but was something that happened a lot say 3 years ago in the days of the 20A escs that we was asking WAY To much from.
The Succex 60A has been amazing in every single way and totally the most reliable 4 in 1 i have ever used and i have not had but one pop two fets on the same output replaced them and everyone has been totally rock solid. The Furling Airport has been perfect as well except for a lifted motor pad on one.
The Robotdog ESCs blow fets a lot and I have replaced about 25 fets on them in total. At one point i had them on 6 builds and i flew those builds a lot and fets popping was somthing that just happened.. Turtle mode and you was going to pop fets from time to time and it was almost always the top fet on motor pole 1 and 3 when you popped one it would every time pop the two outside top fets never just one failed fet and that's odd because normally when a fet pops it's normally 1 and with no consistancy to what one goes. Popping 2 fets on the same output doesn't happen much if ever but on Robotdog ESCs it was automatic if you had a failure that was two fets that had to be replaced.
Had bad luck with first gen Airbot. The Wraith32 and Ori32 lines. Random blow-ups and shorted MCUs on crashes. The cramped layout doesn't help in tracing and repairing anyway. Ditched them since then. Currently running second gen Airbot ESCs, the Furling32 45A. Reasonably priced, simpler layout, and last longer. Though I hate the fact that they use the smaller SMD resistors and stuff, which is a pain in the butt to work with.
I'm surprised that most repairs you do are just replacing the FETs, because I rarely just have to replace the FETs only. Most of the time, I have to replace the gate inrush limiter and in severe case, the gate driver too.
I have a esc 4in1 that the M1 pad have some problem, when it reaches 40% throttle restart fc, the others pads m2, m3 and m4 are ok, can support 100%. Do you know how fix it?
You can try this or check all solder connections and move the motors around as well. also EMI noise can cause this. If you shield the ESC and the flight controller with copper tape it can prevent this. Make sure you dont short anything with the shielding.
Does a 32bit ESC actually run on 32bits architecture or is it just a marketing scheme to say these are just faster?
It runs on a 32-bit architecture chip.
@Joshua Bardwell Any idea on how to set the esc start up tone on the blade torrent to the imperial march sound ? im a complete noob and need some help !
@Joshua Bardwell *Update* the esc's are skywalker 20 4 in1 and I flashed the esc in the blheli config with version 4.85 imperial march and set beeper strength to 91 and the start up tone is now the imperial march but now my torrents motors wont spin, again im a real noob at this and its my first time figuring this stuff out any help would be awesome, I did put the version back to 4.9 and the motors are working normal ! not sure what to do to get this to work the way i want it lol
What if my multimeter doesn't have the beep function ?
is there a replacement lens for the runcam 3s if you break it?
So I have a broken 4in1 ESC, anybody have an idea as to what I should do with it to make use of the 3 that still work?
Thank you!!!!
Same concept in a marine esc?
thank you. JB 🙏❤️
Crazy as always love it
thanks mate saved me buying a new motor :D
After a short circuiting on the output, my ESC now start with 3 beeps instead of one long beep. Also the motors are not running at full speed anymore. Is it broken? :(
It's hard to tell just based on the info you're giving here. If you want to email me we can look into it. I would suggest sending a video of the startup beeps.
Joshua Bardwell Josh can you help me? I have tyro129 problem here is a link, please help me if you can, thanks!
ruclips.net/video/PWBUSdpT3zY/видео.html
Awesome quick tip, and thank you for bringing a previously unknown to the light of so many wondering RUclipsr's I hope to see more quick tips and unknown channel's brought to are attention 🥃cheers🍻
can you test a single esc the same way ? it may be a stupid question. CHeers
Yes definitely.
When did Greg Proops start doing repairs? Hahaha nice video dude thanks!
Connectivity mode in a multimeter is second only to voltage measurement in terms of usefulness. I got small a broken screen multimeter I still use for its connectivity mode.
My best multimeters are a Metrix MTX3282 & MTX3283B, they look like Star Trek tricorders and can be completely controlled with one hand. haku.co.uk/pics/MTX3282.jpg
That is sexy AF
When new they were more expensive than Fat Shark HDO's, but I lucked out on eBay auctions.
Perhaps my favourite feature they have is the ability to show watts by measuring volts and amps at the same time.
Hey Joshua, I recently got a hot air rework station and hope to use it like livyu to fix quad parts when they break. Any chance you'd be willing to send that ESC or maybe some others my way to try it out? I'd be happy to pay for shipping!
Where you located?
Thanks, this was great
Thanks
Thanks, gonna give this a try. It's driving me nuts...
I'll test this tonight
Thank you!!
I crashed and landed in a little puddle. Motor 1 and 3 stutter then error beep and stop. Is my esc dead? Noob, overwhelmed. Please help
Damn. Very helpful video that I needed 2 months ago. Thanks for sharing for my future references
can you do an update to the ultimate fpv shopping list add some new things and that
I am constantly updating it. Check the top of the page. It shows the last updated date :-)