Nice Job!! Your demonstration of using the bobbin to hold the fly in place while you helicopter the wire off was a great tip because you didn't have to put your fingers on the body to hold it steady. I was a little surprised that you pulled the Coq de Leone feathers forward to get them the right length after taking so many wraps over them. I use that technique a lot but if I put more than three wraps on it, I typically have to unwrap one or even two before I can pull them through. You might mention that restraining the lead wire to the front half of the hook really makes a fly dive headfirst better (like a jig) than covering the entire shank with it. With a tungsten bead, it would probably still do more of a jig sink than the level sink you' get covering the shank in lead wire. but limiting it to no more than half the shank length really makes it dive head first nicely. Also enjoyed the attention you paid to and keeping the taper on that fly. Nice job! I enjoyed your video.
You could use Sally Hansen's hard as nails to get a similar body. That's what we used before the UV activated epoxies made it to fly tying. However, the UV epoxy definitely looks better. Hard as nail looks better than just normal head cement for coating a body and UV epoxy looks better than hard as nails as a coating.
Nice! Bead, lead, slim smooth nymph - this fly will get down fast and stay down!
It definitely will!
Nice Job!! Your demonstration of using the bobbin to hold the fly in place while you helicopter the wire off was a great tip because you didn't have to put your fingers on the body to hold it steady. I was a little surprised that you pulled the Coq de Leone feathers forward to get them the right length after taking so many wraps over them. I use that technique a lot but if I put more than three wraps on it, I typically have to unwrap one or even two before I can pull them through.
You might mention that restraining the lead wire to the front half of the hook really makes a fly dive headfirst better (like a jig) than covering the entire shank with it. With a tungsten bead, it would probably still do more of a jig sink than the level sink you' get covering the shank in lead wire. but limiting it to no more than half the shank length really makes it dive head first nicely. Also enjoyed the attention you paid to and keeping the taper on that fly. Nice job! I enjoyed your video.
Hey Dan! Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for the input. We'll keep it in mind for future videos. Tight lines 👍
Hi Cody, glad to hear it! Best of luck.
Will clear nail polish work as epoxy
You could use Sally Hansen's hard as nails to get a similar body. That's what we used before the UV activated epoxies made it to fly tying. However, the UV epoxy definitely looks better. Hard as nail looks better than just normal head cement for coating a body and UV epoxy looks better than hard as nails as a coating.