I would highly recommend moving that inline fuse you have on the power wire to the FC3. It should be as close to the power source (ie battery) as possible to properly protect the circuit. If you get a short in a pump or over current situation the amperage will melt the wire/connection/insulation before the fuse will ever blow letting you know there is a problem. Especially with that thicker awg power wiring running in the car under carpet and near other wires. At the coyotes higher base pressure plus boost on a referenced regulator those 465 pumps are already pulling close to 20amps a piece when full on. When I install these Fore kits I put the inline fuse behind the battery about 6" from the terminal. Another tip is over time those little allen locks for the wires on the fc3 can comes loose especially when mounted directly to body structure, which can cause a pump to start going intermittent or eventually loose power completely. I use rubber insulation to Isolate it from the body when mounting, tin the wire ends with solder and put a dab of blue locktite on the little allen terminal locks. BTW love your vids!
Dammit. Thought I was done dumping money into my fuel system project. Now I ended up ordering a Hobbs switch and Fore fc3 too now after watching this. At least it'll look better than the rats nest of wiring and dual relays I was gonna do.
What was the Check engine light? Was it the FPDM? if so were you able to disable thru tune? I am putting a return style in my car this week but due to need more than anything else.I am pushing way more HP than you are and have been trying to tune the returnless system and it just stays way too lean. 01 GT but I built an 09 gt500 engine from short block up and running a big whipple at over 25psi
Hey Alex, where are you drawing vacuum for the MAP sensor on the fuel regulator? I already rigged something on my whipple manifold for the Hobbes and my boost gauge, and I'd rather avoid more T'ing what have you.
I've got an injectors question IDK if you've already answered it in a different video but in your opinion do you need something like a Id1000 or bigger for a 700-800HP build with a roush supercharger. Or would something like a deachworks 80lb or 95lb be fine to use. I ask cause I've been told a view times that ID1000 would be barely enough and I need bigger ones
so why is the "sump" there could you just cut the sump out so it doesn't empty on high fuel demand? whats it its purpose is there a screen on that "sump" for filtering or something?
I have not seen any evidence that the stock pump even with a pump voltage booster can empty the hat bucket from too much flow so I would not worry about it. As always with a performance setup fuel is you life blood try to keep the car above 1/4 tank at all times. Helps keep the pump cooler especially when voltage boosted and less likely to suck up the crap that settles in the bottom of the tank over time. btw that's why that filter screen is on the bottom of the fuel hat bucket.
I would highly recommend moving that inline fuse you have on the power wire to the FC3. It should be as close to the power source (ie battery) as possible to properly protect the circuit. If you get a short in a pump or over current situation the amperage will melt the wire/connection/insulation before the fuse will ever blow letting you know there is a problem. Especially with that thicker awg power wiring running in the car under carpet and near other wires. At the coyotes higher base pressure plus boost on a referenced regulator those 465 pumps are already pulling close to 20amps a piece when full on. When I install these Fore kits I put the inline fuse behind the battery about 6" from the terminal. Another tip is over time those little allen locks for the wires on the fc3 can comes loose especially when mounted directly to body structure, which can cause a pump to start going intermittent or eventually loose power completely. I use rubber insulation to Isolate it from the body when mounting, tin the wire ends with solder and put a dab of blue locktite on the little allen terminal locks. BTW love your vids!
Thanks for the tip sir!!
No prob!
What return fuel system would you recommend if I want to switch over to E85 on my 2017 Roush stage 3
This dude is sharp as hell with merchanics
*mechanics
sick race car alex... always enjoy your content
Really like the tune you did on the Mustang Lifestyle 16 5.0 he was going nose to nose with that other guy corba
billy heaton that car ran 11.2
ahhh that good old blend door actuator click lol been there
Love the channel! Keep it up
I'm sure the stock 5/16th line was the restriction but no sense just replacing that and chasing problems. Do it all right and be done with it.👍🏻👍🏻
Love your Vids keep them.coming.
nice video install
Thanks for the video brotha
Dammit. Thought I was done dumping money into my fuel system project. Now I ended up ordering a Hobbs switch and Fore fc3 too now after watching this. At least it'll look better than the rats nest of wiring and dual relays I was gonna do.
"i was looking for my fuckin sandle" lmfao
God that supercharger sound
nice video going to attempt this on my v6
What was the Check engine light? Was it the FPDM? if so were you able to disable thru tune? I am putting a return style in my car this week but due to need more than anything else.I am pushing way more HP than you are and have been trying to tune the returnless system and it just stays way too lean. 01 GT but I built an 09 gt500 engine from short block up and running a big whipple at over 25psi
Lmao the fart noise at 10:20
Hey Alex, where are you drawing vacuum for the MAP sensor on the fuel regulator? I already rigged something on my whipple manifold for the Hobbes and my boost gauge, and I'd rather avoid more T'ing what have you.
I've got an injectors question IDK if you've already answered it in a different video but in your opinion do you need something like a Id1000 or bigger for a 700-800HP build with a roush supercharger. Or would something like a deachworks 80lb or 95lb be fine to use. I ask cause I've been told a view times that ID1000 would be barely enough and I need bigger ones
diggin the channel and your experience on the coyote,what are your thoughts on an intercooler chiller system and what cooling system you run?
👌💯
Is that in the trunk? Or under back seats?
Is it ever ok to see any positive knock? Lets say cruising shift into 3rd and between 2k-3k you see 2 degrees positive
no, not ok. mine is always negative.
so why is the "sump" there could you just cut the sump out so it doesn't empty on high fuel demand? whats it its purpose is there a screen on that "sump" for filtering or something?
I have not seen any evidence that the stock pump even with a pump voltage booster can empty the hat bucket from too much flow so I would not worry about it. As always with a performance setup fuel is you life blood try to keep the car above 1/4 tank at all times. Helps keep the pump cooler especially when voltage boosted and less likely to suck up the crap that settles in the bottom of the tank over time. btw that's why that filter screen is on the bottom of the fuel hat bucket.
How are your fuel rails feed. Series or parallel
what was the check engine light
I forgot to plug in the fpdm. all fixed.
It might be off topic but what fuel system you recommend on a 03 cobra for e85 it has vmp blower with 10:1 compression built short block
www.lethalperformance.com/lethal-performance-99-04-4v-budget-return-style-fuel-system.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwja_JBRD8idHpxaz0t3wSJAB4rXW5pzuTvBrEjfrElb2vUo2RXPUB1r4fgm-Z9_7D0W1t-BoCK07w_wcB
How much power can that kit handle with the stock rails and I'm seeing it uses the stock feed line too?
What regulator is that?
will a boost a pump provide enough for the e85?
nop
nice shirt.
You ran out of fuel for two reasons. 1. The hole in the 11-14 outlet is only .175" in diameter. 2. Straight E85 needs a lot more volume that E55.
Forgot to mention the 11-14 only flows 133lph vs 255lph with the 15-17.
It flows way more than that. Google the flow test from KB. With the BAP it pumps out over 500lph
Never mind i see where
Lol