Just successfully did an ABXY button swap thanks to this guide. Never done any real tech tinkering before and this was extremely helpful. Much appreciated.
I dropped mine and the only "damage" was a wobbly dpad. Annoying that I had to remove so much to get it and resit the membrane. It worked fine and your vid helped a lot! Thanks!
I'm a bit dissapointed the face buttons are keyed like that. It was implied from the "Swappable in hardware & Software" image that you might be able to swap those, but i guess you can't, oh well. Thank you for the in depth teardown!
in their website they tell you how to swap buttons and you can just rip the tiny keyed parts and leave the big ones, at least thats how retroid wants you to do it
I had to dissasemble the RP4 Pro because stopped working some of the action buttons and thanks to that video is really so easy! in my case I only had to disarm the left part, but you need to quit heatsink and battery, but really helpful Kei! Some alcohol and it's working again like a charm! It's my favourite handheld by far
I appreciate, this is a very helpful guide. However, I do have one request - if you know that later in the video you would have done something differently in a previous step, please just edit it in. I was following your guide step by step and had to backtrack a lot since you would never give a heads up beforehand. Otherwise, really appreciate the teardown, helped me replace the entire shell of my pocket 4!
Been pretty cew if you did a complete teardown. I bought the grey oldschool one on accident and i wanted the ice blue. I contacted Retroid and i can buy a front and back shell replacement for $20 so i wanted to see a complete teardown.
Just did a panel swap using this guide. The wifi antenna is not included in the replacement panel. The panel did include power and volume buttons. Was sent with tweezers, screwdrivers and a guitar pick. I was impressed. vid was helpful. literally watched it forward and back. My device had kapton tape in different places but overall this was very helpful. Would have taken me foreve to find those screws under the speakers.
@KrazzyKlown Were you able to easily remove the Wi-Fi antenna? Was there any damage in this removal? Did the glue come off easily? I have a stuck pixel problem on my RP4 pro's screen. Retroid said they would send me another one. But I'm wondering if I'll be able to perform this screen change.
@@ricardocintra5934If you are familiar with small electronic repair, you will have an easy time. Its a simple design. To answer your questions, yes the wifi antenna was easy to remove. I would describe the glue as "goopy". Some stayed on the old screen, but enough stuck to the antenna that I was able to just stick it straight on the new screen with no additional adhesive.
Good guide. One note of constructive criticism, in the future try to edit the videos step order to remove any mistakes you make along the way. I was following closely along and made the same mistakes, i.e not installing the joysticks before putting the heat plate on. It would just clean up the guide a bit, otherwise thanks for the help!
Mine had a problem with R1 button, seems to be stuck in some sort, but the input happens normally. When I reatached the back shell the problem return. Seem to be the back shell is stucking the R1 button or something. I'll dissaembly again to work on it. Btw Great video.
these new devices are really starting to look modern cell phones. everything is packed tight and ribbon cables everywhere. always makes me nervous opening them up now since they're so fragile.
I would like to switch out the screen/front shell of my rp4 pro due to a screen defect, but this video doesn't necessarily discuss how to replace this. I'm quite a beginner, so I was wondering if I had to take apart all the said components above to get to the screen? I am really worried about damaging my device.
You would need to remove everything up to about the 13:30 ish mark. The new screen comes with the front shell preattached so you just need to move over the board, battery, buttons and membranes.
@@KeiRetroGamingUpdate! I replaced the front shell based on your tutorial, and it worked great!! Everything seems to be working well. Thank you for the tutorial! Something that might be helpful for others who are doing the same thing as me. 1) @11:26 the bottom tape mentioned does NOT come with the front shell that they send so you will have to take that off carefully. The tape stretches/deforms, so it won't stay the same shape but will still stick on the new shell. However, this didn't matter when rebuilding everything. 2) The black strip that connects the left controller board with the right controller board (@11:04) also does NOT come with the front shell, but using the old one was fine for me. 3) Don't get excited and rebuild the whole device only to forget the home and start buttons, making you redo the whole thing lmao.... All in all, I had a great experience following the tutorial and replacing the front shell! I'm pretty excited/proud because this is my first time doing anything like this!!
Does anyone here know where I can get a hold of a battery replacement for this model? I’ve been searching everywhere and even Retroid doesn’t have any in their store but only told me to ship it back to them to fix it although I wouldn’t trust them unless they send out a return shipping label for me which they still haven’t even done so..
Just contact Retroid customer service. They send the backplate with attached triggers and all you do is follow the back plate removal part of this guide.
Except it's Chinese new year and they won't even start shipping replacements for a few weeks. I ordered ps4 replacement trigger springs and a tutorial would be cool
Hi, useful video but sincerely I hope I do not have to open this one up - haha! I was wondering, do you also have like a clicking sound if you gently tap the D-pad? When I do that in the middle of the D-pad, I can hear a kind of soft click. I do not recall if it came like that out of the box or not, when really pressing left or right, you mostly do not hear it.
@@KeiRetroGaming I was thinking surely there's screens that can fit the pinout and size? I don't think Retroid and Anbernic would source for custom screens because it is pricey.
I stripped one of the screws to the shell while I was opening up my RP4 Pro to temporarily fix the triggers, how can I get that screw out so I can replace the back shell when I get it from Retroid? I've already tried the rubber band and glue methods, both of which have had no success.
So, i just received my replacement screen & the wifi cable near the bottom of the battery is not pre installed. How hard is it going to be to pull that out & reuse that cable & whatever its attached to?
Sorry if I missed it in the video, but how is the back plate connected to the main board? Is there another pin cable for the analog triggers ? Thanks for a great teardown. Cheers
Try an H1.3 screwdriver if they're not using the T6 on yours. An electronics repair kit should come with quite a few and they only cost about $20 on amazon. Try this one: www.amazon.com/YINSAN-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Playstation/dp/B0C5WN1HWP/
Any idea what those extra plug connectors are on the right side of the motherboard as you have the Retroid Pocket laying face down? I've noticed several of those connectors in my Retroid Pocket 2S. I figured they were probably for something done to the device during manufacture, but have no idea what.
The 4 Pro comes with hall joysticks. I would buy a 256gb micro SD card for it personally. Here's my micro SD card recommendation (either a 256 or 512 of this model): a.co/d/5vSA5UK
@@KeiRetroGaming Cool thanks for the reply i wasn't looking forward to replacing the sticks anyway but i bought some if i ever needed to replace them anyway ill get a sd card for it soon after i get it, do you know how long i should expect for shipping from retroid?
If you want an OLED panel then the pocket air might be the way to go but it's more expensive. The D1100 and D1200 are pretty close in performance either way so id probably go for the RP4 Pro and save the money. You could also get an add-on grip for the 4 Pro with the difference you save going that route as well. Here's a benchmark between the two: nanoreview.net/en/soc-compare/mediatek-dimensity-1200-vs-mediatek-dimensity-1100
Thank you for this video. I needed to replace the L2 R2 trigger springs on my RP4 Pro. By watching your video before attempting any work on it, I can't even see any marks that I had opened it. Your video was highly recommended by KevinFlevin89 ruclips.net/video/wmzElW6m-j4/видео.htmlfeature=shared Greak work and thanks again.
![This Emulates [Almost] Everything! - Retroid Pocket 4 Pro Deep Dive](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/W2jSGUdtrZY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Eminem - Somebody Save Me (feat. Jelly Roll) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Vwa0HenQMi4/mqdefault.jpg)
Just successfully did an ABXY button swap thanks to this guide. Never done any real tech tinkering before and this was extremely helpful. Much appreciated.
Straight swap or you need to buy a proper xbox ABXY button set?
I'd love to see a temperature comparison between the original thermal pad and a thermal paste
I dropped mine and the only "damage" was a wobbly dpad. Annoying that I had to remove so much to get it and resit the membrane. It worked fine and your vid helped a lot! Thanks!
From 23:44 you can see the retroid logo with the "green" calibration which a second later is fixed by the software...
I'm a bit dissapointed the face buttons are keyed like that. It was implied from the "Swappable in hardware & Software" image that you might be able to swap those, but i guess you can't, oh well. Thank you for the in depth teardown!
The teardown we're waiting for. Thanks for the video.
Swappable by means of buying xbox ABXY parts and install them 😢
in their website they tell you how to swap buttons and you can just rip the tiny keyed parts and leave the big ones, at least thats how retroid wants you to do it
Highly appreciate this, I was really hoping to see a teardown
I had to dissasemble the RP4 Pro because stopped working some of the action buttons and thanks to that video is really so easy! in my case I only had to disarm the left part, but you need to quit heatsink and battery, but really helpful Kei! Some alcohol and it's working again like a charm! It's my favourite handheld by far
I wish someone did a complete tear down of the pocket air 😂. I need to swap the screen and there are like 0 tear down videos on the internet for it 😂
Looks like it's going to be a pain in the ass to change the battery.
I'm watching this just to learn how to change the battery, I'll put a 10,000 milli ampere from a power bank xd
Have u done it yet?@@rubensantiagoguerrerovalle5490
@rubensantiagoguerrerovalle5490 did u do it?
@@rubensantiagoguerrerovalle5490wow, would it fit?
@@janX9I’m hoping so, genuinely the only mod I’d wanna do to my device, I’d do 8k instead of 10k
I appreciate, this is a very helpful guide. However, I do have one request - if you know that later in the video you would have done something differently in a previous step, please just edit it in. I was following your guide step by step and had to backtrack a lot since you would never give a heads up beforehand. Otherwise, really appreciate the teardown, helped me replace the entire shell of my pocket 4!
Been pretty cew if you did a complete teardown. I bought the grey oldschool one on accident and i wanted the ice blue. I contacted Retroid and i can buy a front and back shell replacement for $20 so i wanted to see a complete teardown.
Just did a panel swap using this guide. The wifi antenna is not included in the replacement panel. The panel did include power and volume buttons. Was sent with tweezers, screwdrivers and a guitar pick. I was impressed. vid was helpful. literally watched it forward and back. My device had kapton tape in different places but overall this was very helpful. Would have taken me foreve to find those screws under the speakers.
@KrazzyKlown Were you able to easily remove the Wi-Fi antenna? Was there any damage in this removal? Did the glue come off easily? I have a stuck pixel problem on my RP4 pro's screen. Retroid said they would send me another one. But I'm wondering if I'll be able to perform this screen change.
@@ricardocintra5934If you are familiar with small electronic repair, you will have an easy time. Its a simple design. To answer your questions, yes the wifi antenna was easy to remove. I would describe the glue as "goopy". Some stayed on the old screen, but enough stuck to the antenna that I was able to just stick it straight on the new screen with no additional adhesive.
Great tear down thanks Kei!
Thank you, just swapped my buttons, very good video, you rock !!!
I'd love to learn more about the available open connectors. Im hoping we could add NFC or rumble
Good guide. One note of constructive criticism, in the future try to edit the videos step order to remove any mistakes you make along the way. I was following closely along and made the same mistakes, i.e not installing the joysticks before putting the heat plate on. It would just clean up the guide a bit, otherwise thanks for the help!
Thanks! Yep, always working on improving as a content creator.
Mine had a problem with R1 button, seems to be stuck in some sort, but the input happens normally. When I reatached the back shell the problem return. Seem to be the back shell is stucking the R1 button or something. I'll dissaembly again to work on it. Btw Great video.
Make sure you replace those springs in the triggers 👍
these new devices are really starting to look modern cell phones. everything is packed tight and ribbon cables everywhere. always makes me nervous opening them up now since they're so fragile.
I wouldn't be so scared. Keep in mind the fragility and just take your time.
I would like to switch out the screen/front shell of my rp4 pro due to a screen defect, but this video doesn't necessarily discuss how to replace this. I'm quite a beginner, so I was wondering if I had to take apart all the said components above to get to the screen? I am really worried about damaging my device.
You would need to remove everything up to about the 13:30 ish mark. The new screen comes with the front shell preattached so you just need to move over the board, battery, buttons and membranes.
Thank you so much. I'll try it!@@KeiRetroGaming
@@KeiRetroGamingUpdate! I replaced the front shell based on your tutorial, and it worked great!! Everything seems to be working well. Thank you for the tutorial!
Something that might be helpful for others who are doing the same thing as me. 1) @11:26 the bottom tape mentioned does NOT come with the front shell that they send so you will have to take that off carefully. The tape stretches/deforms, so it won't stay the same shape but will still stick on the new shell. However, this didn't matter when rebuilding everything. 2) The black strip that connects the left controller board with the right controller board (@11:04) also does NOT come with the front shell, but using the old one was fine for me. 3) Don't get excited and rebuild the whole device only to forget the home and start buttons, making you redo the whole thing lmao....
All in all, I had a great experience following the tutorial and replacing the front shell! I'm pretty excited/proud because this is my first time doing anything like this!!
Great job with the swap!
LOVE the teardown. subbed
Helpful guide
Thanks!
Does anyone here know where I can get a hold of a battery replacement for this model? I’ve been searching everywhere and even Retroid doesn’t have any in their store but only told me to ship it back to them to fix it although I wouldn’t trust them unless they send out a return shipping label for me which they still haven’t even done so..
How i can change the display ?
Hello, very well explained everything, what possibility is there, can you please make a tutorial on how to repair the r1 -r2 triggers
Just contact Retroid customer service. They send the backplate with attached triggers and all you do is follow the back plate removal part of this guide.
Except it's Chinese new year and they won't even start shipping replacements for a few weeks. I ordered ps4 replacement trigger springs and a tutorial would be cool
19:51 i see a the fan.
20:18 is this a rumble motor or System Battery?
My fan stopped working after about 4 months of play, I was hoping to replace but was wondering if anyone knows the specs for a good replacement?
Contact Retroid on their official discord for a replacement fan.
How can I fix my loose R2 Trigger?
Hi, useful video but sincerely I hope I do not have to open this one up - haha! I was wondering, do you also have like a clicking sound if you gently tap the D-pad? When I do that in the middle of the D-pad, I can hear a kind of soft click. I do not recall if it came like that out of the box or not, when really pressing left or right, you mostly do not hear it.
Sorry for the late reply. I hear a very soft hollow click on mine yeah. Sounds normal.
Do you know what is the model of the display that the RP4 Pro is using? I would like to see what alternative displays can it fit.
It's model specific. There's no replacement except from Retroid themselves.
@@KeiRetroGaming I was thinking surely there's screens that can fit the pinout and size? I don't think Retroid and Anbernic would source for custom screens because it is pricey.
Hello! Tell me, please, what is the name of the tape that is glued to the radiator for the outlet of warm air on the Retroid Poked 4Pro?
Kapton tape should work fine as a replacement.
@@KeiRetroGaming Thanks!
Is there a chance one could apply Liquid Metal?
I personally wouldn't attempt it but yes it's possible.
"RP4-Ultra-Rev1.2", I see they had other naming ideas instead of "RP4 Pro"
I kinda like the name "RP4 Ultra" better personally but I thought that was pretty neat to see either way too.
Sounds like a guilty gear title.
Ultra has too many letters, so they went with pro
@@daveg. Retroid Pocket IV.5 Zrd + Wth = parallord Turbo
I stripped one of the screws to the shell while I was opening up my RP4 Pro to temporarily fix the triggers, how can I get that screw out so I can replace the back shell when I get it from Retroid? I've already tried the rubber band and glue methods, both of which have had no success.
Super glue and a screwdriver you wont miss. Place the glue using a toothpick.
So, i just received my replacement screen & the wifi cable near the bottom of the battery is not pre installed. How hard is it going to be to pull that out & reuse that cable & whatever its attached to?
Use a hairdryer or something similar to remove it, go very slowly pulling it up. It's doable but take your time.
Sorry if I missed it in the video, but how is the back plate connected to the main board? Is there another pin cable for the analog triggers ?
Thanks for a great teardown.
Cheers
The triggers are connected via a membrane that touches to the board once the backplate is attached and the trigger is pressed.
i bought T6 screwdriver and it its mare star shaped. How do i make sure to get the correct ones? the screws on my RP4Pro are hexagonal
Try an H1.3 screwdriver if they're not using the T6 on yours. An electronics repair kit should come with quite a few and they only cost about $20 on amazon. Try this one:
www.amazon.com/YINSAN-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Playstation/dp/B0C5WN1HWP/
Wow, I was thinking of dyeing one a different colour, but this looks like a lot of work, dismantling it.
A ton of work for sure and removing the panel is never a safe thing.
Any idea what those extra plug connectors are on the right side of the motherboard as you have the Retroid Pocket laying face down? I've noticed several of those connectors in my Retroid Pocket 2S. I figured they were probably for something done to the device during manufacture, but have no idea what.
Various size JST connectors. Maybe for debugging? Not sure
Pretty sure those are just for diagnostic's when they're testing them at the factory.
Should i buy the hall sensors and buttons or are the ones they come with fine? what about the 256gb card?
The 4 Pro comes with hall joysticks. I would buy a 256gb micro SD card for it personally. Here's my micro SD card recommendation (either a 256 or 512 of this model):
a.co/d/5vSA5UK
@@KeiRetroGaming Cool thanks for the reply i wasn't looking forward to replacing the sticks anyway but i bought some if i ever needed to replace them anyway ill get a sd card for it soon after i get it, do you know how long i should expect for shipping from retroid?
Question, R Pocket 4 pro or AN Pocket air?
If you want an OLED panel then the pocket air might be the way to go but it's more expensive. The D1100 and D1200 are pretty close in performance either way so id probably go for the RP4 Pro and save the money. You could also get an add-on grip for the 4 Pro with the difference you save going that route as well. Here's a benchmark between the two:
nanoreview.net/en/soc-compare/mediatek-dimensity-1200-vs-mediatek-dimensity-1100
@@KeiRetroGaming I love oled, but it goes with 60hz, and I wouldn’t see movies series, thanks for ull help, ill buy RP4 Pro
this thing has rumble???
So does the 3+ lol. A strong rumble. Anytime you turn it on or off, or even plug it in it gives you a buzz.
Could definitely fit that motherboard in a flip, just saying.
Thank you for this video. I needed to replace the L2 R2 trigger springs on my RP4 Pro.
By watching your video before attempting any work on it, I can't even see any marks that I had opened it.
Your video was highly recommended by KevinFlevin89
ruclips.net/video/wmzElW6m-j4/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Greak work and thanks again.
I personally would never do this. I rather leave it alone and not risk breaking it.
I hope I never have to open mine. So many components and delicate flex cables. 😖
I don't mind people taking inspiration from others but you didn't have to copy Jerry Rigs Everything right down to his cadence. ha
I can't believe my eyes! You left a torn thermal pad! How terrible. 👎🏻
What a horrible heatsink/fan design.
It's one of the most useless active cooling i've ever seen.