Hey Warren, if anybody can get this POS running you can. I guess it’s just going to be another learning experience! Thanks much for checking in with us.
Hello Warren. I work with Paccar a lot. If you said that it is running on ether than obviously timing is good as it is very simple to set up. Batteries and starter are not he case , IMHO. I am sure it is fuel issue. If you did not do before , try to verify if you do not have too much fuel going to return. Cylinder head has two threaded holes. If you would have necessary plugs and banjo bolts, you can plug rear one, open in front of the head, and with transparent hose and banjo bolt plug it and verify if you have excessive fuel running out, also if you have air coming from it, what can be caused by combustion gases running in it due any to loose fuel injector. I have a feeling it is either too much fuel in return or air in return. Wish you to best of luck!
Warren. I’m a Kenworth Master Tech. I’ve only seen something like this happen once, and what it ended up being was dirty fuel system components blocking fuel passages. I would consider taking the high pressure lines and injectors out and thoroughly cleaning everything. I don’t doubt that you did a good job keeping everything clean when you took it apart and reassembled, but that’s the symptom I’ve seen that caused this issue
Just got done messing with an international DT heui that cranked good but wouldn’t start put the jump pack on it and boom it would light. Had a couple bad batteries. Fought a paccar a while back did a head on it but could not get it to start. Went through crank no start troubleshooting on RMI ended up isolating the high pressure pumps one at a time. Cap one off and crank if no start cap the other and try again which ever pump it started on the other one was bad. Long story short found one bad pumping unit. I will preface that with the fact I did not have good rail pressure which you seem to. If you need any info from paccar RMI let me know for as bad as DAVIE is the RMI is pretty solid. If I have time in the morning I’ll scan through that crank no start tree I believe it had some steps in there for timing verification. But it might just be checking the synchronization data pid
I did verify this morning that it directs you to verify timing with the synchronization pid on davie and if engine has signs of recent timing related work to verify base engine timing…… which we all know what that means off comes the rear structure:/
Back in the mid-1980s, I was struggling with a computer program problem for days. I finally got the needed information to get it working. I have never forgotten the solution to this day. Warren, when you get to the bottom of this, you'll never forget it, trust me.
I remember working on a Paccar years ago and we had a crank but no start. It started up at first like yours and then died. It ended up taking over 100 pumps to get the thing to fire. We had to prime FOREVER to get fuel into it and get enough pressure in it to run. I doubt your issue is the same because of your other issues but I wanted to share my displeasure with working on Paccar. I also remember them being VERY sensitive to voltage drop too. A battery on the fritz would prevent them from running. Put the batteries in another vehicle and get another two years out of the batteries. Idk might be sometime strange like wiring that was damaged during the work or maybe something as crazy as a tone ring being backwards. I know you’ll find the issue tho. You always do. You’re no quitter.
I'm with you on tone rings could be it. I picked up on the uneven crank and keep thinking that's the sign of the problem. He said it would fire on either, and to do that you bypass the tone rings.
I feel like I’m waiting on the edge of my seat for the next episode. Finding out how you solve this is like waiting to see who shot JR… lol. Thanks for the update and video..
Excessive starter draw is one of the most overlooked problems I've seen in 45 years as a heavy equipment mechanic. Most engines need to reach a target cranking speed to allow the ecm to fire the injectors. Trust your basic skills and don't overcomplicate it. Cheers bud
I ran into one that ran me around terrible. Same exact symptoms. Ended up being a compression seal on an injector that would push air in the system from the return side right into the high pressure pump unit. Hope this helps!
Hi Warren I just wanted to take the time to say I really appreciate your content. So many RUclipsrs become successful and no longer are relatable. One guy started making a bs racecar. I worked for a man like yourself for one summer. I really miss those days. God must have a place set for people like yourself.
I just watched ZK MasterTech last night and he worked on a Deere tractor with a Cummins and he changed the high pressure fuel pump and that wasn’t the problem. In the end it was the starter not spinning fast enough. Love the videos!
I feel your pain my friend,I started at age 27 as a mechanic for the USPS,back in the day we pulled a red knob and cable to shut down the engine,simple,didnt even need a battery to run,over 37 years we tried them all Mack Volvo Ford International ,every model a bigger pain in the ass.In my last few years no soft ware to use and take them to the dealer , check engine lites back on before I even made it back to our garage, International dealer just told me run them till they de rate ,they could not repair them .Then comes this Cummins knock off PACCAR, king of the DEF problems. Well, I retired cause I couldnt repair anything , best regards ,enjoy your vids
It was very hard to find any Paccar repair related materials online few years back but you were one of the very few if not the only one who actually posted such videos which got me and lot of us inspired and kindda give us a starting path to dig deeper into those paccars that I call "Nightmare engines". You are truly a Genius by fact Warren, and no one can take that away from you. Please keep going we all need you boss! I worked on few MX13 with the same exact problems. If you haven't done it, I would check 2 things: The injectors and the battery fuses. Hope this can help and good luck bro !
Good Morning. In your first video you showed BLACK STUFF in the fuel filters. You also state that the common rail pressure is high. That is usually Combustion Carbon getting into the fuel due to faulty injectors stuck open. Also combustion pressure would cause high common rail pressure. I would check the injectors.
I believe there was a tsb on this, and it correlated to the P0094 original code that was generated. Over time the combustion seals where injector meets the head start to leak and that causes air in high pressure side of system which messes with rail pressure and fuel pressure control valve adjusting properly for demand when engine state is in “unit pump control” mode. Also causes hard starts and black filters like you stated
I had one come in with a smoked lifter that looked like yours, turned out the cam lobe spun on the cam. they are pressed together from pieces, not one solid piece like a guy would think. Luckily after the cam swap it did fire up and run afterward. Good luck, cant wait to see what you find.
I had a problem with a freightliner not starting. Simular slow and uneven crank. Battery harness through chassis was the problem. Just old dirty cable conections. cheers and keep on with the vidios. Very informative.
My 2000 7.3 powerstroke did the same thing to me. Wouldn't start - installed 2 - new batteries - no start - cranked better but no start. Change starter and fired right up. I always thought (like you said) the old starter dragged down the voltage to a point the ecm. Didn't know what to do. 👍
I’m with ya Warren,you will succeed on this pos, you will benefit,I believe,Thks for keeping us up to date on this. I got 2 buddies that watched for the first time recently,I’m gonna hang in there.
Wish the best for you on this one Warren, wished I could help out, but if this thing has you stumped at this time, I sure as shootin don’t stand a chance at helping, the thing I would be willing to bet is that it probably something simple and in no way would you suspect it. Thanks for the update sir.
Sounds like voltage drop to the ECM, with these newer trucks bad batteries sure fvcks things up, get a bad starter drawing too much juice the voltage is dropping the ECM starts cutting out. Watching your videos over the years makes me glad I don't live in the land of strict emissions regulations here in BC Canada we can still run a truck with a Green Grenade 😂 I sure as shit won't be buying a used truck with a Paccar engine.
Hi Warren. I used to measure the starter amps before deciding to replace starter or batteries. I had the Snap-On AVR that could inductive measure 3000 or so amps. After load testing each battery separately, I'd put the amp clamp as close to the starter as I could to measure the draw. The draw would initially spike at 1200-1500 amps cold (12V starter) and drop down to about 600-800 continuous cranking amps. Any more than that, and the starter is junk. If memory serves, the ECM should stay above 9V. at continuous cranking speed, 10 V would be better.
One i worked on starts with very weak batteries , when measuring voltage drop for slow cranking i found problems with short battery cables and oxidation ,measure voltage drop with ignition on in the battery box from each post to the other end ,few milliamps less than 5 is ok , lost or loose ground stands out ,i once had similar issue that got fix by adding ground wire to the ground side of the cam sensor ,stretched wires ,liquid in cam connectors can kill weak signals . Check the camshaft sensor connections and wiring, visually inspect for issues, and use a DAVIE monitor to check the cam-crank signal value when starting the engine ,if you can see what computer sees its much easier ,tone wheel backwards ? hitting one cylinder only...
When cracking, monitor common rail operating state, engine operating state, and engine mode might help. Wow this is a good case. Last time I was working on a MX and fuel pressure (Relative) was below 5psi, the cause was a torn seal inside the fuel filter element.
You said you adjusted the overhead on the TDC mark. Cylinders 1 and 6 are adjusted when on the 1/6 mark on the flywheel NOT on the TDC mark. The TDC mark is only used to time the gears. However I don’t believe that would cause a Crank/No Start. Very interested in how this plays out. Will be checking in.
Thank you warren explain about one client war stories.i got same problems couple years ago here calgary alberta on pipeline job.i got t800 kw c15 won't yup.they start change fuel pump,injector so on.i said" stop is not fuel systems send cat dealer finning"well after one weeks huge suprise the wiring on ecm was shot due chemical they on highway in ontario in winter.they replace ecm wiring up to dash inside everything back oem systems yes.huge job but no more problems.with egr and ecm people must take courage both hand like you warren.thanks you video put real world of hd mechanic.😊
Also quick and simple thing to try. Hook a jumper cable from the block to the negative on batt. Just in case the ecm grounds somewhere on the block and you missed it
Thank you for sharing, was checking all day yesterday for an update on this case, what a nigtmare. Had a sterling with mercedes mbe 4000, tech in the shop was doing a clutch and when he put the flywheel back on he didnt get the dowel in the crank lined up. Cant remember if it was throwing codes but it would start and then die immediately everytime. We were able to verify by going to TDC mark on the flywheel and seeing that valves on 1 and 6 were not right. I would think if you had flywheel installed wrong and then ran complete overhead off flywheel marks, you would have more obvious compression / interference issues, not sure. I noticed from last video while watching sync that it sounds like even cranking for a revolution or two, then when it syncs, the uneven cranking starts and is consistent like one or two cylinders trying to fire every time. Oscilloscope on cam and crank signals should catch a sensor timing issue, lots of good cases like timing marks off by one cam gear tooth on gassers from scanner danner, south main auto, watch wes work.
Just read some of comments Warren, just hope one of them is the answer, I would of fixed it with a stick of dynamite by now, thank you for the video Warren.👍
Yeah, I’m experiencing a similar situation when you do everything you throw all your weapons at it and it still doesn’t work, search in the Internet searching RUclips looking for some kind of help but it’s not there because you’re in a unique situation so it’s a feeling of being defeated it gives a feeling of when it’s somebody else’s stuff The possibility of losing your reputation of being unable to solve the problem is overwhelming at times
If you get a scope, you can use that log truck to get a known good waveform of the cam and crank sensors. Then compare to your no start. That will tell you if your out of time without having to pull the trans.
Hi Warren, You are an amazing mechanic and I have learnt so much from your videos so thanks for your postings from me here in Australia. Just a couple of thoughts for you to ponder. If the engine started and ran at first start, your timing must be OK so you can possibly not go down that path. You also note that the fuel rail pressure is 4,700 psi which is 1,100 psi (33%) above set value (3,600 psi) and that the engine has uneven cranking with the sensors plugged in and the cranking returns to normal when the speed connectors are disconnected indicating that the ECM is detecting the engine is rotating. Is it possible that the ECM has detected an excessively high fuel rail pressure and will not inject (start the engine) as it knows that it will not be able to control engine speed as the actual injected fuel quantity will be much higher than the calculated amount (1.85 grams/cycle) because the calculated fuel injection amount is based on a fuel rail pressure of 3,600 psi and an injector open cycle time of X at that cranking speed and the ECM probably can't compensate for the higher fuel rail pressure? It may be possible that each time the engine attempts to fire (uneven cranking) that the ECM detects the rotational speed of the engine (crankshaft acceleration) is faster than it should for the amount of fuel it is injecting and stops the engine from starting.
You are on the right track of cranking speed and voltage while cranking. That uneven crank could be a leaky injector slobering in fuel with no impluse. Good luck man i feel your pain and have been there.
I hate when you get wrapped up in a project like this, you just have to stick your head down and power through it. Any chance the wiring could be off to the injectors or pumping units? I’m hoping it’s a bad starter or batteries, so you can get the darn thing out of the shop and back on the road. This is definitely one we will all remember. It sucks when you’re under the black cloud. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us, Warren.
There is equal levels of audio on L &R channels when Warren is overdubbing so it's more than likely a camera problem that the L channel is barely audible at other times.
I had a 6.0 power stroke one time I was trying to diagnose and I replaced cam and crank sensor at the same time and I could not because of the angle for some reason get the o ring to seat all the way on the crank sensor and it would not start but it had good signal On my Snap on Vantage graphing meter An scan data said it had can crank sync. I even suspected that and took it in and out a few times got frustrated finally one of my co-workers For some reason was able to pull that crank sensor back out and put it in correctly and it started I felt like an idiot Maybe something to check sensor to Reluctor ring gap too big on one of the sensors so unplug one fires on default? It's always the last thing you check keep up the good Work buddy I feel your pain I hate stuff like that All you wanna do is see it go down the road
Had a similar issue after I did a cylinder head on a paccar mx13, the injectors went bad supposedly due to lack of prime they told me. I had that same hiccups you are having when you are cranking, I pit a six pack in it. Primed fuel system and it fire right up.
Sounds like a good shout on the batteries, had a 24 volt truck that wouldn't start but turned over a bit slow when I removed the batteries and tested them one was good and the other was poor, hope you get it nailed today.
I’ve been watching you for a long time. I think you had 30-40,000 subs at that time. I don’t remember a video where you were more stumped than this one. I’m sure you’ve had head scratchers before. One thing I’ve learned in your videos, the harder that thing fights you the harder you’re going to bite down. Like pay dirt says “Jeff wins” so will Warren. 👍
I recently had a liebherr engine in a loader have this same problem the uneven crank was the injectors being shut off and back on. I had tried the same thing with the cam and crank sensors. Other liebherr I could unplug the crank and it would start. The teeth on the flywheel had a gap at TDC and one of the teeth on one side of the gap had a groove in it and that sensor would see it a shut the injectors off. I changed the flywheel and it started
I had a ford tractor like that one time uneven crank wouldn’t start you could bench test the starter and it showed good,batteries were good but a new starter fixed it
A bad set of batteries can sure drag down the voltage/amperage output even with boosting as they act like a sponge and won't let the power through. Also as I am sure you know, bad batteries cause starter/solenoid contacts arc/burn and end up having to change out the starter or at least solenoid as a result. This year I had struggles with my 2005 Pete with a C15, first the ECM shit the bed right on the scales of a seed cleaning plant ... truck was running and then it died as it sat there idling. Fortunately there is a well versed mechanic not far away and got him over there and he plugs in his laptop and said power is getting to your ECM but the ECM has shit the bed as its not communicating. He had a spare test ECM and put that on and it fires right up. When I had a chance I dropped the truck off to him and he put a reman ECM on and had to do some programming etc as the old ECM parameter info was corrupted. I asked what he though of its cranking speed and he said it was "ok" but not really what it could be. I had changed out the batteries four years prior ( 4 battery system ) and some months later I had some issues with slow cranking and I checked the tightness of the battery nuts and sure enough they were way too loose now and so I re-tighten and this went on and on with every so often having to re-tighten all the nuts on the batteries ... it was like the lead was soft and would not hold a torque. This spring after that ECM issue I checked the battery connections ... this fall just before harvest did it again. Well a few weeks later in close to the end of harvest the truck was giving fits because it would not restart sometimes after just having been run, would crank over ok but no sign of trying to fire ... piss around thinking the breaker in the cab for the ECM might be bad etc or its the ECM again or a crank sensor but anyway then it would decide to start a few minutes later. And then I think I finally figured it out, it was those darned battery connections once again and up to that point did not realize that the ECM gets its main power direct from the battery box with a 30 amp maxi fuse in the box ( its all under the passenger seat in this Pete, always saw the fuse but never knew what it powered ) as tightening the connections "again" which fixed the issue and the very lug that the positive wire for the ECM power feed fuse was really loose and my "uh huh" moment. I had also talked to that mechanic about the issue and my concern over not all that snappy of a cranking speed and he said bypass those two battery disconnects out of the system that the original owner had installed. I did that and wow, does it ever crank over a lot faster by ear now and that was with the very same batteries. Never the less I had enough of all that bull crap of the battery connections being loose every time I turned around so I installed four new batteries of a different brand and and it never missed a beat late in the fall hauling grain to the grain elevators. Its very possible that those batteries cost me that ECM failure due to low voltage from poor connections damaging it, I will never know that though.
Hey Warren Man o man what a problem I think you went over any and all possible problems This is my 2 cents before you change out the batteries do a voltage drop test on the starter neg and positive you’ll know in a few minutes a simple fast check. Good luck Warren CHEERS
Fascinating, maybe try a completely separate battery up on the frame rail. Just to power the ECM, something not effected by starting circuit. I thought this crap only happened to me. Good luck
So I’ve only seen it one time but try unhooking the exhaust pipe at the turbo and try to start it again. Had a maxxforce dt466 that had a dpf so plugged that it would crank slow and wouldn’t start tho it wanted to for just a second at the beginning of each crank cycle. Good luck. I know you’ll get it sooner than later
Been there,done that . I could get the engine to run and idle but the exhaust was 🔥 hot . The front can had collapsed in the front ,blocking the damn thing .
Hey Warren, this summer I ran into an issue on my recently rebuilt gas engine. Couldn't figure out what the heck happened but shed start but has to power. Seemed to be timing. I checked everything including inspecting and replacing the timing gears and chain. Nothing 😞! After several days of on and off I finally found my new distributor failed internally throwing the timing off. I've never seen anything like it. I guess the point is you can't rule anything out . I know the knee to the balls feeling!😢
If you suspect a bad injector you can also plug the rail one cylinder at a time until it starts or the lope goes away to isolate the suspect injector. It sounds like it’s one or possibly 2 cylinders while your cranking. It’s a way to do a mechanical cut out.
These do the same in the DAF XF 105 trucks. Your injectors are air locked.... one if firing that's why you have an uneven crank. I always change one fuel filter at a time when there in for a service. Hope this heps
I have seen a mx13 out of time far enough that you could fire it on ether but would not start unassisted. It really seems like it's out a tooth or two. I am actually replacing a cam in one today. Watching RUclips vids on my lunch.
Call Haggai Truck Center in Griffin Georgia. They are an independent shop that works on tons of trucks. They might have run into this problem before. They normally don't mind troubleshooting over the phone. I'd say call a paccar dealership but they wouldn't know as much as an independent shop.
I think you are right, when cranking if battery goes to low ecm will shut down, I had this problem with my ford 6 cylinder pickup, crank and crank no start, could not believe it, new battery, wow back to normal.. one would think if you can crank and crank battery okay.... nope
seems like the only part changed that could cause problems would be the cam? could there be a problem with the new cam? are there any differences with the tone wheel the sensor reads? teeth shape or spacing? could you supply the truck electrical system a different way to get more voltage to the computer while cranking? could you measure the battery voltage at the computer on the positive and negative and see exactly what voltage the computer is getting while cranking? a lot of meters can log minimum and maximum. just a few ideas for you to ponder.
Hey Warren, long time subscriber and appreciate all the videos. I’ve had slobering injectors bite me in the butt a few times. Your first video when you posted your desired vs actual rail pressure values point to a bad injector or two in my opinion. If it will start on ether and run on its own I’d bet my money it’s worth a check! I’m sure you could do a fuel leakage or return rate test to confirm this. Another reason being if your fuel pump took a crap could have shot garbage down to the injectors That being said I don’t know much about pacar engines. Just hope you get er figured out we’ve all been in this position before I’m sure I feel for ya!
Sorry watched your last video over again and got it backwards. Maybe check your rail pressure sensor/wiring if you have 1700 psi before you start cranking. Can’t say I’ve ever seen rail pressure that high… couple hundred psi is believable but 1700 seems odd to me. On a cummins you could unplug fuel control actuator to test that theory. Again not sure on paccars. Hope you read this good luck!
If you had a scope you could set a trigger off the crank sensor and look at the injector pulse relationships. Possible to compare the cam pin to tone ring relationship between old and new cam? Good luck Warren.
If this one has electronic injectors then it is likely shorting injector. You saw that excess pressure build up so it is likely doing that because it won't inject. I am just guessing as are other people, but it makes sense. See if it is possible to unplug injectors one at a time.
Warren, you are smart man. I don’t believe it’s a timing issue. Everything you say makes sense. I’m with you on the cranking rpm. You brought up a 7.3 not starting because of low voltage. I’ve had a 6.0 not start because of a locked up a/c compressor clutch. Cranked fine. Removed belt fired right up. Just an idea. Not trying to sound stupid. But might be worth your while if you haven’t looked. Keep on keeping on man
If your timing was off wouldn’t you have a compression issue? Could you test compression? Maybe Using a scope to check injector pulse to crank sensor signals…Hopefully it’s just a battery issue… Good luck!
Any possibility it could be an injector return pressure issue? I really know very little about that engine specifically, but some common rail diesels need positive pressure in injector return to fire injectors. If air is introduced into such a system, it can be almost impossible to get started without using shop air to slightly pressurize return circuit. I'm talking specifically about the lml duramax engine that uses piezoelectric injectors. Like I said it may not apply to this engine. Love your content man and sure hope you get it figured out soon!
I have been working on the PACCAR product and the MX engine since it came out ,,I have had that issue ,It is injectors,, Normally a cleanliness issue ,,It starts runs for a min if you lucky cuts out and doesn;t start again ,,He also has too high a rail pressure from what is demanded by the ECM ,And the Pump correction is in the high negative figures as the pumps are trying to lower the pressure ,So the fuel is at the injector as there is pressure ,it sounds like 1 or 2 injectors are working ,But he won't listen and is getting himself confused chasing things that are not there
@@norb0254 Did he mention that engine run with either cam or crank sensor disconnected ? I've seen a shorted pressure rail sensor bring down computer throwing multiple other codes , disconnected all sensor till engine resumed operation ,codes did little to no help in finding out the problem .
@@rovidius2006 if i remember correctly there is no codes .I think it initally started and then cut out and has not run since...He mention the ECM requested say 300 bar and there was 500 bar at the rail ( the figures i made up as i can not remember what he said they where ) and he had a high negative correction ..It does sound like 1 or 2 injectors are firing ..I have been working on these engines since they where launched back in i think 2006 when it had 6 pump units ,till todays common rail set up...The engines will run with either just a cam or crank sensor but he say his are synchronised when spinning it over..As a rule 99% of the time if you have no warnings/codes the electrics are ok ( there is always that 1 situation when you get no codes and it is electrical lol ) But with no codes active or stored ,that says to me it is a good old mechanical fault ..I have looked at the troubleshooting and from what he says for a non start especially after major work it is the injectors .I am in the uk dealer network and i am currently doing a camshaft a week i am currently on number 26 and have 2 waiting and have personally never had an issue ,it is all about cleanliness .putting caps on ports ,i strip and clean the filter housing before putting it back on
@@norb0254 Air locks ? fuel pressure relief valve should purge air out but if plugged injectors themselves would purge air out taking long cranking time ,air is springy ,some defects are sometimes never known unless someone notices them for some reason .
Hi Warren I heard that the way that thing was cranking as soon as tried it in the very first video don't bother with timing if runs on either and when first started it its by all means in time , you've got machincal problem broke rings on piston or maybe some derbis holding a valve open not enough to hit piston but enough to loose compression I'd start with cylender leak down test or something
Warren I didn't know if this my be, does the alternator spin free!!! Years age a alternator was dragging and very similar thing, it just would not start, pulled belt started,🌞
Sounds like a fuel injector leaking down. If you have the tools you could do a fuel quantity test on the return circuit. Or blocking off lines 1 at a time to see if it will be run when the bad injector gets capped.
Hello Warren since you have fuel rail pressure and the truck responds to cam and crank sensor being plugged in and unplugged. I believe you have injectors not delivering fuel or not enough. You said it will run on either. Sound like similar problem that you had with Detroit and injectors.
If it starts on ether it is not a timing problem, I think your on to something with it shooting fuel in at the wrong time. I had the same thing on a Kubota and it was simply just air in the fuel lines.
Probably like a dd15 when the injectors just fuck up after being apart if it runs off Cosby sauce timing cam crank sync all good it’s a pain in the ass lol dead head some injector see if the actual and desired rail get better
I have ran into issues with batteries being bad with these types of scenarios. I am for putting new batteries in it. I may be completely wrong, I just got to your videos on this project.
I wonder if the timing is one tooth off. Throwing the sync off between the cam and crank. One tooth will not cause an interference issue. We purchased an engine from Farmland and it would not start. It was one tooth off. But it cranked fine no mechanical interference.
Hey Warren, if anybody can get this POS running you can. I guess it’s just going to be another learning experience! Thanks much for checking in with us.
What a nightmare those piccar engines. You’re the best Warren .
Air bag job is almost therapeutic in comparison. I wish you the best on this
Hello Warren. I work with Paccar a lot. If you said that it is running on ether than obviously timing is good as it is very simple to set up. Batteries and starter are not he case , IMHO. I am sure it is fuel issue. If you did not do before , try to verify if you do not have too much fuel going to return. Cylinder head has two threaded holes. If you would have necessary plugs and banjo bolts, you can plug rear one, open in front of the head, and with transparent hose and banjo bolt plug it and verify if you have excessive fuel running out, also if you have air coming from it, what can be caused by combustion gases running in it due any to loose fuel injector. I have a feeling it is either too much fuel in return or air in return.
Wish you to best of luck!
Warren. I’m a Kenworth Master Tech. I’ve only seen something like this happen once, and what it ended up being was dirty fuel system components blocking fuel passages. I would consider taking the high pressure lines and injectors out and thoroughly cleaning everything. I don’t doubt that you did a good job keeping everything clean when you took it apart and reassembled, but that’s the symptom I’ve seen that caused this issue
I feel your pain Warren, that kind of a mess keeps a guy up at night. I have no doubt you'll get it figured though.
Just got done messing with an international DT heui that cranked good but wouldn’t start put the jump pack on it and boom it would light. Had a couple bad batteries. Fought a paccar a while back did a head on it but could not get it to start. Went through crank no start troubleshooting on RMI ended up isolating the high pressure pumps one at a time. Cap one off and crank if no start cap the other and try again which ever pump it started on the other one was bad. Long story short found one bad pumping unit. I will preface that with the fact I did not have good rail pressure which you seem to. If you need any info from paccar RMI let me know for as bad as DAVIE is the RMI is pretty solid. If I have time in the morning I’ll scan through that crank no start tree I believe it had some steps in there for timing verification. But it might just be checking the synchronization data pid
Thank you
I did verify this morning that it directs you to verify timing with the synchronization pid on davie and if engine has signs of recent timing related work to verify base engine timing…… which we all know what that means off comes the rear structure:/
Back in the mid-1980s, I was struggling with a computer program problem for days. I finally got the needed information to get it working. I have never forgotten the solution to this day. Warren, when you get to the bottom of this, you'll never forget it, trust me.
I remember working on a Paccar years ago and we had a crank but no start. It started up at first like yours and then died. It ended up taking over 100 pumps to get the thing to fire. We had to prime FOREVER to get fuel into it and get enough pressure in it to run. I doubt your issue is the same because of your other issues but I wanted to share my displeasure with working on Paccar. I also remember them being VERY sensitive to voltage drop too. A battery on the fritz would prevent them from running. Put the batteries in another vehicle and get another two years out of the batteries. Idk might be sometime strange like wiring that was damaged during the work or maybe something as crazy as a tone ring being backwards. I know you’ll find the issue tho. You always do. You’re no quitter.
I'm with you on tone rings could be it. I picked up on the uneven crank and keep thinking that's the sign of the problem. He said it would fire on either, and to do that you bypass the tone rings.
I agree with this. Definitely on to something
I feel like I’m waiting on the edge of my seat for the next episode. Finding out how you solve this is like waiting to see who shot JR… lol. Thanks for the update and video..
Excessive starter draw is one of the most overlooked problems I've seen in 45 years as a heavy equipment mechanic. Most engines need to reach a target cranking speed to allow the ecm to fire the injectors. Trust your basic skills and don't overcomplicate it. Cheers bud
I ran into one that ran me around terrible. Same exact symptoms. Ended up being a compression seal on an injector that would push air in the system from the return side right into the high pressure pump unit.
Hope this helps!
Yes this is likely. Hard to tell from the video if his truck has the return blender on top. If not the air bubbles would go back to the tank.
Keep on keeping on! Appreciate you keeping us updated. Thanks
Hi Warren I just wanted to take the time to say I really appreciate your content. So many RUclipsrs become successful and no longer are relatable. One guy started making a bs racecar. I worked for a man like yourself for one summer. I really miss those days. God must have a place set for people like yourself.
I just watched ZK MasterTech last night and he worked on a Deere tractor with a Cummins and he changed the high pressure fuel pump and that wasn’t the problem. In the end it was the starter not spinning fast enough. Love the videos!
What an unholy mess. You will figure it out Warren, You always do. Best Wishes to You and Your Family.
Can't wait to hear results Warren... hopefully someone's two cents out here helps out ... best of luck!
I feel your pain my friend,I started at age 27 as a mechanic for the USPS,back in the day we pulled a red knob and cable to shut down the engine,simple,didnt even need a battery to run,over 37 years we tried them all Mack Volvo Ford International ,every model a bigger pain in the ass.In my last few years no soft ware to use and take them to the dealer , check engine lites back on before I even made it back to our garage, International dealer just told me run them till they de rate ,they could not repair them .Then comes this Cummins knock off PACCAR, king of the DEF problems. Well, I retired cause I couldnt repair anything , best regards ,enjoy your vids
It was very hard to find any Paccar repair related materials online few years back but you were one of the very few if not the only one who actually posted such videos which got me and lot of us inspired and kindda give us a starting path to dig deeper into those paccars that I call "Nightmare engines". You are truly a Genius by fact Warren, and no one can take that away from you. Please keep going we all need you boss! I worked on few MX13 with the same exact problems. If you haven't done it, I would check 2 things: The injectors and the battery fuses. Hope this can help and good luck bro !
Good Morning. In your first video you showed BLACK STUFF in the fuel filters. You also state that the common rail pressure is high. That is usually Combustion Carbon getting into the fuel due to faulty injectors stuck open. Also combustion pressure would cause high common rail pressure. I would check the injectors.
I believe there was a tsb on this, and it correlated to the P0094 original code that was generated. Over time the combustion seals where injector meets the head start to leak and that causes air in high pressure side of system which messes with rail pressure and fuel pressure control valve adjusting properly for demand when engine state is in “unit pump control” mode. Also causes hard starts and black filters like you stated
I had one come in with a smoked lifter that looked like yours, turned out the cam lobe spun on the cam. they are pressed together from pieces, not one solid piece like a guy would think. Luckily after the cam swap it did fire up and run afterward. Good luck, cant wait to see what you find.
I had a problem with a freightliner not starting. Simular slow and uneven crank. Battery harness through chassis was the problem. Just old dirty cable conections. cheers and keep on with the vidios. Very informative.
My 2000 7.3 powerstroke did the same thing to me. Wouldn't start - installed 2 - new batteries - no start - cranked better but no start. Change starter and fired right up. I always thought (like you said) the old starter dragged down the voltage to a point the ecm. Didn't know what to do. 👍
I’m with ya Warren,you will succeed on this pos, you will benefit,I believe,Thks for keeping us up to date on this. I got 2 buddies that watched for the first time recently,I’m gonna hang in there.
Wish the best for you on this one Warren, wished I could help out, but if this thing has you stumped at this time, I sure as shootin don’t stand a chance at helping, the thing I would be willing to bet is that it probably something simple and in no way would you suspect it. Thanks for the update sir.
Sounds like voltage drop to the ECM, with these newer trucks bad batteries sure fvcks things up, get a bad starter drawing too much juice the voltage is dropping the ECM starts cutting out. Watching your videos over the years makes me glad I don't live in the land of strict emissions regulations here in BC Canada we can still run a truck with a Green Grenade 😂 I sure as shit won't be buying a used truck with a Paccar engine.
Hi Warren. I used to measure the starter amps before deciding to replace starter or batteries. I had the Snap-On AVR that could inductive measure 3000 or so amps. After load testing each battery separately, I'd put the amp clamp as close to the starter as I could to measure the draw. The draw would initially spike at 1200-1500 amps cold (12V starter) and drop down to about 600-800 continuous cranking amps. Any more than that, and the starter is junk. If memory serves, the ECM should stay above 9V. at continuous cranking speed, 10 V would be better.
One i worked on starts with very weak batteries , when measuring voltage drop for slow cranking i found problems with short battery cables and oxidation ,measure voltage drop with ignition on in the battery box from each post to the other end ,few milliamps less than 5 is ok , lost or loose ground stands out ,i once had similar issue that got fix by adding ground wire to the ground side of the cam sensor ,stretched wires ,liquid in cam connectors can kill weak signals . Check the camshaft sensor connections and wiring, visually inspect for issues, and use a DAVIE monitor to check the cam-crank signal value when starting the engine ,if you can see what computer sees its much easier ,tone wheel backwards ? hitting one cylinder only...
When cracking, monitor common rail operating state, engine operating state, and engine mode might help. Wow this is a good case.
Last time I was working on a MX and fuel pressure (Relative) was below 5psi, the cause was a torn seal inside the fuel filter element.
You said you adjusted the overhead on the TDC mark. Cylinders 1 and 6 are adjusted when on the 1/6 mark on the flywheel NOT on the TDC mark. The TDC mark is only used to time the gears. However I don’t believe that would cause a Crank/No Start.
Very interested in how this plays out. Will be checking in.
Thank you warren explain about one client war stories.i got same problems couple years ago here calgary alberta on pipeline job.i got t800 kw c15 won't yup.they start change fuel pump,injector so on.i said" stop is not fuel systems send cat dealer finning"well after one weeks huge suprise the wiring on ecm was shot due chemical they on highway in ontario in winter.they replace ecm wiring up to dash inside everything back oem systems yes.huge job but no more problems.with egr and ecm people must take courage both hand like you warren.thanks you video put real world of hd mechanic.😊
Thanks for your time and consideration Warren very informative 👍🔧🛠️🚛🚛🚛
Also quick and simple thing to try. Hook a jumper cable from the block to the negative on batt. Just in case the ecm grounds somewhere on the block and you missed it
Thank you for sharing, was checking all day yesterday for an update on this case, what a nigtmare.
Had a sterling with mercedes mbe 4000, tech in the shop was doing a clutch and when he put the flywheel back on he didnt get the dowel in the crank lined up. Cant remember if it was throwing codes but it would start and then die immediately everytime. We were able to verify by going to TDC mark on the flywheel and seeing that valves on 1 and 6 were not right.
I would think if you had flywheel installed wrong and then ran complete overhead off flywheel marks, you would have more obvious compression / interference issues, not sure.
I noticed from last video while watching sync that it sounds like even cranking for a revolution or two, then when it syncs, the uneven cranking starts and is consistent like one or two cylinders trying to fire every time.
Oscilloscope on cam and crank signals should catch a sensor timing issue, lots of good cases like timing marks off by one cam gear tooth on gassers from scanner danner, south main auto, watch wes work.
Just read some of comments Warren, just hope one of them is the answer, I would of fixed it with a stick of dynamite by now, thank you for the video Warren.👍
Yeah, I’m experiencing a similar situation when you do everything you throw all your weapons at it and it still doesn’t work, search in the Internet searching RUclips looking for some kind of help but it’s not there because you’re in a unique situation so it’s a feeling of being defeated it gives a feeling of when it’s somebody else’s stuff The possibility of losing your reputation of being unable to solve the problem is overwhelming at times
Warren, such a knowledge base you have, and work ethics. Truly a great guy a++++++
If you get a scope, you can use that log truck to get a known good waveform of the cam and crank sensors. Then compare to your no start. That will tell you if your out of time without having to pull the trans.
Bet theirs someone in the automotive youtube community that could come scope them for him right now
Needles to say you've been dealt a tough hand but as they say when going gets tough the tough get going .. 💪
Wishing you success as always Warren.
Hi Warren. Figured something was up. Kindest regards,Bill 🇨🇦🇨🇦
Hi Warren, You are an amazing mechanic and I have learnt so much from your videos so thanks for your postings from me here in Australia. Just a couple of thoughts for you to ponder. If the engine started and ran at first start, your timing must be OK so you can possibly not go down that path. You also note that the fuel rail pressure is 4,700 psi which is 1,100 psi (33%) above set value (3,600 psi) and that the engine has uneven cranking with the sensors plugged in and the cranking returns to normal when the speed connectors are disconnected indicating that the ECM is detecting the engine is rotating. Is it possible that the ECM has detected an excessively high fuel rail pressure and will not inject (start the engine) as it knows that it will not be able to control engine speed as the actual injected fuel quantity will be much higher than the calculated amount (1.85 grams/cycle) because the calculated fuel injection amount is based on a fuel rail pressure of 3,600 psi and an injector open cycle time of X at that cranking speed and the ECM probably can't compensate for the higher fuel rail pressure? It may be possible that each time the engine attempts to fire (uneven cranking) that the ECM detects the rotational speed of the engine (crankshaft acceleration) is faster than it should for the amount of fuel it is injecting and stops the engine from starting.
You are on the right track of cranking speed and voltage while cranking. That uneven crank could be a leaky injector slobering in fuel with no impluse. Good luck man i feel your pain and have been there.
Thanks Warren! keep us updated to what you find.
I remember a CAT 3176 that wouldn't start. The tone ring was on the cam backwards. Doesn't sound like yours can be wrong. Good Luck.
I hate when you get wrapped up in a project like this, you just have to stick your head down and power through it. Any chance the wiring could be off to the injectors or pumping units? I’m hoping it’s a bad starter or batteries, so you can get the darn thing out of the shop and back on the road. This is definitely one we will all remember. It sucks when you’re under the black cloud. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us, Warren.
good video
There is equal levels of audio on L &R channels when Warren is overdubbing so it's more than likely a camera problem that the L channel is barely audible at other times.
Pine hollow auto diagnostics needs to give ya a hand. He is a wiz at that computer diagnostics and figuring those issues out.
I had a 6.0 power stroke one time I was trying to diagnose and I replaced cam and crank sensor at the same time and I could not because of the angle for some reason get the o ring to seat all the way on the crank sensor and it would not start but it had good signal On my Snap on Vantage graphing meter An scan data said it had can crank sync. I even suspected that and took it in and out a few times got frustrated finally one of my co-workers For some reason was able to pull that crank sensor back out and put it in correctly and it started I felt like an idiot Maybe something to check sensor to Reluctor ring gap too big on one of the sensors so unplug one fires on default? It's always the last thing you check keep up the good Work buddy I feel your pain I hate stuff like that All you wanna do is see it go down the road
I feel your pain . Good luck
Had a similar issue after I did a cylinder head on a paccar mx13, the injectors went bad supposedly due to lack of prime they told me. I had that same hiccups you are having when you are cranking, I pit a six pack in it. Primed fuel system and it fire right up.
Sounds like a good shout on the batteries, had a 24 volt truck that wouldn't start but turned over a bit slow when I removed the batteries and tested them one was good and the other was poor, hope you get it nailed today.
Thanks for the update buddy I got faith you will find out what is happening 🙏
I’ve been watching you for a long time. I think you had 30-40,000 subs at that time. I don’t remember a video where you were more stumped than this one. I’m sure you’ve had head scratchers before. One thing I’ve learned in your videos, the harder that thing fights you the harder you’re going to bite down. Like pay dirt says “Jeff wins” so will Warren. 👍
Here That Only Parts Order's Make Warren This Upset
Usually the more complicated the problem is the less complicated the fix
Thanks for another great video Warren, I know you will get it figured out.
Warren, I'm a millwright for 16 years that rebuilds power plants, and honestly. I'm glad I don't do you. You're one helluva guy!
I recently had a liebherr engine in a loader have this same problem the uneven crank was the injectors being shut off and back on. I had tried the same thing with the cam and crank sensors. Other liebherr I could unplug the crank and it would start. The teeth on the flywheel had a gap at TDC and one of the teeth on one side of the gap had a groove in it and that sensor would see it a shut the injectors off. I changed the flywheel and it started
I had a ford tractor like that one time uneven crank wouldn’t start you could bench test the starter and it showed good,batteries were good but a new starter fixed it
A bad set of batteries can sure drag down the voltage/amperage output even with boosting as they act like a sponge and won't let the power through. Also as I am sure you know, bad batteries cause starter/solenoid contacts arc/burn and end up having to change out the starter or at least solenoid as a result. This year I had struggles with my 2005 Pete with a C15, first the ECM shit the bed right on the scales of a seed cleaning plant ... truck was running and then it died as it sat there idling. Fortunately there is a well versed mechanic not far away and got him over there and he plugs in his laptop and said power is getting to your ECM but the ECM has shit the bed as its not communicating. He had a spare test ECM and put that on and it fires right up. When I had a chance I dropped the truck off to him and he put a reman ECM on and had to do some programming etc as the old ECM parameter info was corrupted. I asked what he though of its cranking speed and he said it was "ok" but not really what it could be. I had changed out the batteries four years prior ( 4 battery system ) and some months later I had some issues with slow cranking and I checked the tightness of the battery nuts and sure enough they were way too loose now and so I re-tighten and this went on and on with every so often having to re-tighten all the nuts on the batteries ... it was like the lead was soft and would not hold a torque. This spring after that ECM issue I checked the battery connections ... this fall just before harvest did it again. Well a few weeks later in close to the end of harvest the truck was giving fits because it would not restart sometimes after just having been run, would crank over ok but no sign of trying to fire ... piss around thinking the breaker in the cab for the ECM might be bad etc or its the ECM again or a crank sensor but anyway then it would decide to start a few minutes later. And then I think I finally figured it out, it was those darned battery connections once again and up to that point did not realize that the ECM gets its main power direct from the battery box with a 30 amp maxi fuse in the box ( its all under the passenger seat in this Pete, always saw the fuse but never knew what it powered ) as tightening the connections "again" which fixed the issue and the very lug that the positive wire for the ECM power feed fuse was really loose and my "uh huh" moment. I had also talked to that mechanic about the issue and my concern over not all that snappy of a cranking speed and he said bypass those two battery disconnects out of the system that the original owner had installed. I did that and wow, does it ever crank over a lot faster by ear now and that was with the very same batteries. Never the less I had enough of all that bull crap of the battery connections being loose every time I turned around so I installed four new batteries of a different brand and and it never missed a beat late in the fall hauling grain to the grain elevators. Its very possible that those batteries cost me that ECM failure due to low voltage from poor connections damaging it, I will never know that though.
Hang in there Warren. You'll figure it out.
Hey Warren Man o man what a problem I think you went over any and all possible problems This is my 2 cents before you change out the batteries do a voltage drop test on the starter neg and positive you’ll know in a few minutes a simple fast check. Good luck Warren CHEERS
man! cant wait to hear the solution!
The company I used to work for here in the UK ran DAF trucks and basically if the batteries were low all sorts of warning lights would come on
Sorry Warren, hang in there, you will sort it out, thank you for your videos.
Fascinating, maybe try a completely separate battery up on the frame rail. Just to power the ECM, something not effected by starting circuit. I thought this crap only happened to me. Good luck
I feel for you mate, you’ll get it in the end.
Check injector pulse on all injectors ,if plugged or shorted it can pull ecm down ,led probe
So I’ve only seen it one time but try unhooking the exhaust pipe at the turbo and try to start it again. Had a maxxforce dt466 that had a dpf so plugged that it would crank slow and wouldn’t start tho it wanted to for just a second at the beginning of each crank cycle. Good luck. I know you’ll get it sooner than later
Been there,done that . I could get the engine to run and idle but the exhaust was 🔥 hot . The front can had collapsed in the front ,blocking the damn thing .
Hey Warren, this summer I ran into an issue on my recently rebuilt gas engine. Couldn't figure out what the heck happened but shed start but has to power. Seemed to be timing. I checked everything including inspecting and replacing the timing gears and chain. Nothing 😞! After several days of on and off I finally found my new distributor failed internally throwing the timing off. I've never seen anything like it. I guess the point is you can't rule anything out . I know the knee to the balls feeling!😢
If you suspect a bad injector you can also plug the rail one cylinder at a time until it starts or the lope goes away to isolate the suspect injector. It sounds like it’s one or possibly 2 cylinders while your cranking. It’s a way to do a mechanical cut out.
These do the same in the DAF XF 105 trucks. Your injectors are air locked.... one if firing that's why you have an uneven crank. I always change one fuel filter at a time when there in for a service. Hope this heps
Wish I knew the answer / Thank for the Video Warren 👍
Been thinking about you for couple days ive been there and know the feeling
I have seen a mx13 out of time far enough that you could fire it on ether but would not start unassisted. It really seems like it's out a tooth or two. I am actually replacing a cam in one today. Watching RUclips vids on my lunch.
Call Haggai Truck Center in Griffin Georgia. They are an independent shop that works on tons of trucks. They might have run into this problem before. They normally don't mind troubleshooting over the phone. I'd say call a paccar dealership but they wouldn't know as much as an independent shop.
Thanks for taking us along are injectors good
Ihad a similar problem with a JD. It wouldnot bleedproperly. Found the return line restricted at the pump.
The Professional Struggler sent me over to your Bloody Good channel
Whooop Whoop
I think you are right, when cranking if battery goes to low ecm will shut down, I had this problem with my ford 6 cylinder pickup, crank and crank no start, could not believe it, new battery, wow back to normal.. one would think if you can crank and crank battery okay.... nope
Great job Warren
seems like the only part changed that could cause problems would be the cam? could there be a problem with the new cam? are there any differences with the tone wheel the sensor reads? teeth shape or spacing? could you supply the truck electrical system a different way to get more voltage to the computer while cranking? could you measure the battery voltage at the computer on the positive and negative and see exactly what voltage the computer is getting while cranking? a lot of meters can log minimum and maximum. just a few ideas for you to ponder.
Hey Warren, long time subscriber and appreciate all the videos.
I’ve had slobering injectors bite me in the butt a few times. Your first video when you posted your desired vs actual rail pressure values point to a bad injector or two in my opinion. If it will start on ether and run on its own I’d bet my money it’s worth a check! I’m sure you could do a fuel leakage or return rate test to confirm this.
Another reason being if your fuel pump took a crap could have shot garbage down to the injectors
That being said I don’t know much about pacar engines. Just hope you get er figured out we’ve all been in this position before I’m sure I feel for ya!
Sorry watched your last video over again and got it backwards. Maybe check your rail pressure sensor/wiring if you have 1700 psi before you start cranking. Can’t say I’ve ever seen rail pressure that high… couple hundred psi is believable but 1700 seems odd to me. On a cummins you could unplug fuel control actuator to test that theory. Again not sure on paccars.
Hope you read this good luck!
If you had a scope you could set a trigger off the crank sensor and look at the injector pulse relationships. Possible to compare the cam pin to tone ring relationship between old and new cam? Good luck Warren.
Right !!!
This is a real cliff hanger!
If this one has electronic injectors then it is likely shorting injector. You saw that excess pressure build up so it is likely doing that because it won't inject. I am just guessing as are other people, but it makes sense. See if it is possible to unplug injectors one at a time.
Right & @ The Coil Injector Check
Warren, you are smart man. I don’t believe it’s a timing issue. Everything you say makes sense. I’m with you on the cranking rpm. You brought up a 7.3 not starting because of low voltage. I’ve had a 6.0 not start because of a locked up a/c compressor clutch. Cranked fine. Removed belt fired right up. Just an idea. Not trying to sound stupid. But might be worth your while if you haven’t looked. Keep on keeping on man
If your timing was off wouldn’t you have a compression issue? Could you test compression? Maybe Using a scope to check injector pulse to crank sensor signals…Hopefully it’s just a battery issue… Good luck!
Hey warren disassemble the exhaust and see of smoke comes out maybe a blockage in the exhaust
Good luck brother.
Any possibility it could be an injector return pressure issue? I really know very little about that engine specifically, but some common rail diesels need positive pressure in injector return to fire injectors. If air is introduced into such a system, it can be almost impossible to get started without using shop air to slightly pressurize return circuit. I'm talking specifically about the lml duramax engine that uses piezoelectric injectors. Like I said it may not apply to this engine. Love your content man and sure hope you get it figured out soon!
I have been working on the PACCAR product and the MX engine since it came out ,,I have had that issue ,It is injectors,, Normally a cleanliness issue ,,It starts runs for a min if you lucky cuts out and doesn;t start again ,,He also has too high a rail pressure from what is demanded by the ECM ,And the Pump correction is in the high negative figures as the pumps are trying to lower the pressure ,So the fuel is at the injector as there is pressure ,it sounds like 1 or 2 injectors are working ,But he won't listen and is getting himself confused chasing things that are not there
@@norb0254 Did he mention that engine run with either cam or crank sensor disconnected ? I've seen a shorted pressure rail sensor bring down computer throwing multiple other codes , disconnected all sensor till engine resumed operation ,codes did little to no help in finding out the problem .
@@rovidius2006 if i remember correctly there is no codes .I think it initally started and then cut out and has not run since...He mention the ECM requested say 300 bar and there was 500 bar at the rail ( the figures i made up as i can not remember what he said they where ) and he had a high negative correction ..It does sound like 1 or 2 injectors are firing ..I have been working on these engines since they where launched back in i think 2006 when it had 6 pump units ,till todays common rail set up...The engines will run with either just a cam or crank sensor but he say his are synchronised when spinning it over..As a rule 99% of the time if you have no warnings/codes the electrics are ok ( there is always that 1 situation when you get no codes and it is electrical lol ) But with no codes active or stored ,that says to me it is a good old mechanical fault ..I have looked at the troubleshooting and from what he says for a non start especially after major work it is the injectors .I am in the uk dealer network and i am currently doing a camshaft a week i am currently on number 26 and have 2 waiting and have personally never had an issue ,it is all about cleanliness .putting caps on ports ,i strip and clean the filter housing before putting it back on
@@norb0254 Air locks ? fuel pressure relief valve should purge air out but if plugged injectors themselves would purge air out taking long cranking time ,air is springy ,some defects are sometimes never known unless someone notices them for some reason .
Hi Warren I heard that the way that thing was cranking as soon as tried it in the very first video don't bother with timing if runs on either and when first started it its by all means in time , you've got machincal problem broke rings on piston or maybe some derbis holding a valve open not enough to hit piston but enough to loose compression I'd start with cylender leak down test or something
Warren I didn't know if this my be, does the alternator spin free!!!
Years age a alternator was dragging and very similar thing, it just would not start, pulled belt started,🌞
Sounds like a fuel injector leaking down. If you have the tools you could do a fuel quantity test on the return circuit. Or blocking off lines 1 at a time to see if it will be run when the bad injector gets capped.
Already did that. Thank you
Hello Warren since you have fuel rail pressure and the truck responds to cam and crank sensor being plugged in and unplugged. I believe you have injectors not delivering fuel or not enough. You said it will run on either. Sound like similar problem that you had with Detroit and injectors.
If it starts on ether it is not a timing problem, I think your on to something with it shooting fuel in at the wrong time. I had the same thing on a Kubota and it was simply just air in the fuel lines.
I had to laugh at the state of your office Warren, a good hard-working mechanic never has a tidy office right?
Probably like a dd15 when the injectors just fuck up after being apart if it runs off Cosby sauce timing cam crank sync all good it’s a pain in the ass lol dead head some injector see if the actual and desired rail get better
CAT ECM's require 9 volts minimum to start the engine.
Unreal! I’m here to the end with you on this thing.
Troubleshooting to a new level for sure. I thought resistance maybe somewhere ….but idk.
I have ran into issues with batteries being bad with these types of scenarios. I am for putting new batteries in it. I may be completely wrong, I just got to your videos on this project.
I wonder if the timing is one tooth off. Throwing the sync off between the cam and crank. One tooth will not cause an interference issue. We purchased an engine from Farmland and it would not start. It was one tooth off. But it cranked fine no mechanical interference.