Now that was cool. It has been years since I learned something like this. tHank you very much. ( I was looking through tons of RUclips suggestions and it all looked ....ehh....then I saw this video! How cool!)
It makes perfect sense the length does not matter? I use Biscuits or if thick enough #5 dominos , I think in most situations this is good! Hey on those skirt boards I take the degree it’s running ( most R between 30-40 degrees) and subtract it from 90 and that’s your plumb cut to meet your base! So example 37* pitch of the stairs is ( 90-37=53 degree plumb cut ). I usually snap a line anyway to make sure I don’t screw it up and as for the off set I use a Stabila level which is 2 3/8” ( pretty sure I don’t do these everyday) and set it on the finished nosings mark a line and snap off of that! That seems to look nice on these customs like you’re doing! Just keep ‘em coming these are great learning pro carpenter videos! You target us guys and we eat it up just goods get your hat in the ring thru algorithms ! Wishing you the best ; God bless you & urs !
Great question, and yes it would. I’ve really only used this trick on fascia and long runs where it’s hard to measure and be accurate. So it’s almost always 3/4” material.
If the material thickness is thicker or thinner than 3/4”, you will need to adjust the bevel angle slightly. He is very smart and I thought he would tell us what the angle setting should be for 1/2” and 1” so I wouldn’t have to make test cuts and tweak the angle myself.
No, it would be a 4.76° angle. You just do triangle math. Thickness of the material is the run, your blade thickness is your rise. So you have 1.5” and .125” (1/8” saw kerf). which creates a 4.76° angle. If you have 1/2” material, with an 1/8” saw kerf it would be a 14.04° bevel.
Fine until it decides it wants to move, as wood does, and the top goes out of register again - full 22.5 or 30º degree bevel is better. It's a neat shortcut but any carpenter worth his or her salt should be able to make that cut and have it turn out well.
Better how. My preference is 15°, just what I prefer. Doesn’t mean it’s objectively better. I have found that steeper the bevel the more slight cupping will show up in the lap cut as open on the edges.
@@Redoakcarpentry True.. but a bigger bevel provides more bearing so the fixing of the 'over' board is tight to the under board, can't move and stays flush. Not tried 15º - could be a good compromise
Now that was cool. It has been years since I learned something like this. tHank you very much.
( I was looking through tons of RUclips suggestions and it all looked ....ehh....then I saw this video! How cool!)
Dude... in all my years, never seen that method!
Holy Cow so simple after I see it done. Wish I'd thought of that already. Thanks!
I always wondered what richie did after happy days. Well done! :-)
Nice job, man . Good trick ! 👍
Awesome tricks
It makes perfect sense the length does not matter? I use Biscuits or if thick enough #5 dominos , I think in most situations this is good!
Hey on those skirt boards I take the degree it’s running ( most R between 30-40 degrees) and subtract it from 90 and that’s your plumb cut to meet your base! So example 37* pitch of the stairs is ( 90-37=53 degree plumb cut ). I usually snap a line anyway to make sure I don’t screw it up and as for the off set I use a Stabila level which is 2 3/8” ( pretty sure I don’t do these everyday) and set it on the finished nosings mark a line and snap off of that! That seems to look nice on these customs like you’re doing!
Just keep ‘em coming these are great learning pro carpenter videos! You target us guys and we eat it up just goods get your hat in the ring thru algorithms !
Wishing you the best ; God bless you & urs !
Sweet& simple. Subscriber# 667👼
Love the channel, adding this trick for deck fascia!
Thanks for the tip.
Now that looks buttery bro
I meant to say can you do a skirt board video from material to setting the gap for the framers to give you? And actually cutting them?
boy, I wish I'd seen this last week, lol
Very well explained!!!!!
Great tip!! Thanks 🎉
Did that when I was younger didn't know how to read a square at that time
I will try that next time on a gable 😎👍
Excellent illustration! Does the bevel degree change if the material is thicker or thinner?
Great question, and yes it would. I’ve really only used this trick on fascia and long runs where it’s hard to measure and be accurate. So it’s almost always 3/4” material.
Couldn’t really understand the explanation, so I’ll watch it again, but can’t fault the theory or quality of cut & match.
👏
If the material thickness is thicker or thinner than 3/4”, you will need to adjust the bevel angle slightly. He is very smart and I thought he would tell us what the angle setting should be for 1/2” and 1” so I wouldn’t have to make test cuts and tweak the angle myself.
So would a 14degree be the number for 1 1/2 fascia?
No, it would be a 4.76° angle.
You just do triangle math. Thickness of the material is the run, your blade thickness is your rise. So you have 1.5” and .125” (1/8” saw kerf). which creates a 4.76° angle.
If you have 1/2” material, with an 1/8” saw kerf it would be a 14.04° bevel.
I like it 🍺
A better trick is to scarf joint. Holds up better over time
How about if the fascia is 1" ?
7.13°
Now you see it now you don't nice trick
Fine until it decides it wants to move, as wood does, and the top goes out of register again - full 22.5 or 30º degree bevel is better. It's a neat shortcut but any carpenter worth his or her salt should be able to make that cut and have it turn out well.
Better how. My preference is 15°, just what I prefer. Doesn’t mean it’s objectively better. I have found that steeper the bevel the more slight cupping will show up in the lap cut as open on the edges.
@@Redoakcarpentry True.. but a bigger bevel provides more bearing so the fixing of the 'over' board is tight to the under board, can't move and stays flush. Not tried 15º - could be a good compromise