Kevin is absolutely right about car oil having an additive package that can cause issues with a wet clutch. Perhaps these bikes don’t have that issue but….the only way to find out is if your clutch starts to slip under acceleration. Did the manual anywhere specify a rating for the oil such as the Japanese MA rating? Not sure if oils sold in the UK carry that rating or not. Manuals here in the US seldom specify “motorcycle specific” but specify ratings that lead you to motorcycle specific oils. Unless of course they are recommending an affiliate brand or their own oil.
Hi JW, thanks for the comment. Appreciate your thoughts. I have done a little bit of research since making this mistake on the oil and I see that the majority (not all) of opinion seems to state that car oil is OK to put into your motorcycle as an accident or emergency but that it is not ideal long term for 2 reasons. 1) the wet clutch will have its friction reduced by the additive package in car oil and may slip and 2) the higher reving nature of a motorcycle engine will have higher shear effect on the oil breaking it down faster. I used to work for a scientific instrumentation company many years ago and there were rheology instruments there that could measure shear, would be an interesting comparison but sadly not something I can take to the lab these days to compare 2 oils. My clutch doesn't slip at the moment and this bike is not s 600cc supersport which is important. Being a 500cc twin it only revs to 10-11k which of course is higher than a car at 7-8k but not hugely different. Also as I am running the bike in the revs have been kept below 5.5k in line with the manual recommendation. If the stroke is shorter than a typical car engine then you can imagine that the comparible revs would mean that the piston is actually moving slower when it is half way between the top and the bottom of its stroke and so inducing less shear on the oil lubricant. All this being said, I have ordered motorcycle specific oil and in all likelihood I'll drop the oil and replace but what started as an error meant I've learnt something and it's prompted some discussion. Regarding the specific brand of oil recommend, there wasn't this in the manual, it simple stated 10W40 to be used. Thanks again 👍
@@MindfulMotorcyclist Agree with much of what you said. at one time I only used car oil in bikes. We have a bit in common. Back in the 80s I helped conduct tests on oil for the USCG and USN. Even though it was decades ago the principles still hold up. In your research you may have run across a distinct lack of reference to anything failing when the right viscosity was used under the given specifications for operation. Usually it’s oil starvation or the wrong oil for the job. I later worked for a railroad where the big diesels ran for 10,000s of hours with no oil change just filter change. The oil was changed only if contaminated and that was usually a diesel leak. Bottom line is if all the manual says is 10W40 then that’s what they mean. Great to see your videos.
You tend to hear that from the manufacturers/dealers but I don't see how that could actually stand up to scrutiny as long as you keep receipts/documentation of parts changed and show they're genuine parts (for servicing tasks that the owners manual has instructions for). I think the issue arises on extended warranties (as they're an offer beyond the legal warranty period) and also it can breach financing/hire purchase t&c's. Personally I'd probably get the first and second service at the dealer. (My warranty experience is only with cars and electronics. Getting my fist bike soon).
@@MentatOfDune I totally agree, but I would've thought replacing the oil with car oil would give the manufacturer all the excuses they need for dismissing the warranty, unless that's what they specify.
To be honest it was a mistake on my part but in the manual it states only that 10w40 should be used there is no mention of specific oil. Still I think I'll drop the oil and start again to be safe.
@@MindfulMotorcyclist yeah, I'd seriously get it out, car oil is not suitable for bikes, car oil has a package of friction inhibitors which while great for a car with its dry clutch is bad for the wet clutch on bikes, also the higher sheer factor on the higher revving bike engines compared to the relatively low revs on cars, requiring a better anti sheer on the bike oil ect
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I know this is a rather obvious question, but that castrol oil is motorcycle specific right?
Hi Kevin, actually it isn't. It's car oil, looks like I might have to swap it back out with motorcycle specific oil 😞
@@MindfulMotorcyclist hell yeah, never use car oil in a wet clutch bike mate, also I'd advise fully synthetic oil too 👌🏻
Kevin is absolutely right about car oil having an additive package that can cause issues with a wet clutch. Perhaps these bikes don’t have that issue but….the only way to find out is if your clutch starts to slip under acceleration. Did the manual anywhere specify a rating for the oil such as the Japanese MA rating? Not sure if oils sold in the UK carry that rating or not. Manuals here in the US seldom specify “motorcycle specific” but specify ratings that lead you to motorcycle specific oils. Unless of course they are recommending an affiliate brand or their own oil.
Hi JW, thanks for the comment. Appreciate your thoughts. I have done a little bit of research since making this mistake on the oil and I see that the majority (not all) of opinion seems to state that car oil is OK to put into your motorcycle as an accident or emergency but that it is not ideal long term for 2 reasons. 1) the wet clutch will have its friction reduced by the additive package in car oil and may slip and 2) the higher reving nature of a motorcycle engine will have higher shear effect on the oil breaking it down faster. I used to work for a scientific instrumentation company many years ago and there were rheology instruments there that could measure shear, would be an interesting comparison but sadly not something I can take to the lab these days to compare 2 oils. My clutch doesn't slip at the moment and this bike is not s 600cc supersport which is important. Being a 500cc twin it only revs to 10-11k which of course is higher than a car at 7-8k but not hugely different. Also as I am running the bike in the revs have been kept below 5.5k in line with the manual recommendation. If the stroke is shorter than a typical car engine then you can imagine that the comparible revs would mean that the piston is actually moving slower when it is half way between the top and the bottom of its stroke and so inducing less shear on the oil lubricant. All this being said, I have ordered motorcycle specific oil and in all likelihood I'll drop the oil and replace but what started as an error meant I've learnt something and it's prompted some discussion. Regarding the specific brand of oil recommend, there wasn't this in the manual, it simple stated 10W40 to be used. Thanks again 👍
@@MindfulMotorcyclist Agree with much of what you said. at one time I only used car oil in bikes. We have a bit in common. Back in the 80s I helped conduct tests on oil for the USCG and USN. Even though it was decades ago the principles still hold up. In your research you may have run across a distinct lack of reference to anything failing when the right viscosity was used under the given specifications for operation. Usually it’s oil starvation or the wrong oil for the job. I later worked for a railroad where the big diesels ran for 10,000s of hours with no oil change just filter change. The oil was changed only if contaminated and that was usually a diesel leak. Bottom line is if all the manual says is 10W40 then that’s what they mean. Great to see your videos.
Oh yeah and won't DIY ing it cause an issue with the warranty?
You tend to hear that from the manufacturers/dealers but I don't see how that could actually stand up to scrutiny as long as you keep receipts/documentation of parts changed and show they're genuine parts (for servicing tasks that the owners manual has instructions for). I think the issue arises on extended warranties (as they're an offer beyond the legal warranty period) and also it can breach financing/hire purchase t&c's.
Personally I'd probably get the first and second service at the dealer. (My warranty experience is only with cars and electronics. Getting my fist bike soon).
@@MentatOfDune I totally agree, but I would've thought replacing the oil with car oil would give the manufacturer all the excuses they need for dismissing the warranty, unless that's what they specify.
To be honest it was a mistake on my part but in the manual it states only that 10w40 should be used there is no mention of specific oil. Still I think I'll drop the oil and start again to be safe.
@@MindfulMotorcyclist yeah, I'd seriously get it out, car oil is not suitable for bikes, car oil has a package of friction inhibitors which while great for a car with its dry clutch is bad for the wet clutch on bikes, also the higher sheer factor on the higher revving bike engines compared to the relatively low revs on cars, requiring a better anti sheer on the bike oil ect
The tyre pressure in bar would bug me, I'm old world so it's psi for me 😁
I'm not sure if there is a way to change it...
@@MindfulMotorcyclist and that would bug me too 😂
@@kevindarkstar 🤣