This is the first video I have seen that gives the principle of operation. Over 15 years I have repaired mine twice, and never was it deposits sticking on the two discs that caused the problem, in my opinion. Cleaning is good, but some measures to counteract aging of the unit guarantees success.
Thanks, man. I've helped multiple residents in my block with dripping taps, but this was my first time coming across on one of these. Helped me fix the dripping tap quickly without a replacement. This video was greatly appreciated 😁👍.
You are a absolute legend. Wish I found your video sooner. Watched all the other ones on RUclips saying to replace the whole gland but I couldn’t find the right size anywhere. Followed your instructions and now the annoying drip has vanished 🎉 thank you so much
Excellent step-by-step video. It certainly is worth servicing a cartridge where possible, not just to save money, but because it can be a right nightmare finding a compatible replacement with the right dimensions, pressure-rating, number of splines etc. This is especially true for some of those cheaper taps with no brand-name. I would suggest - as others have - that soaking the components in white vinegar then using an old toothbrush to clean off the residue is most effective. When cleaning the deposits off the valve-seat in the tap body, I would recommend investing in a tap re-seating tool which isn't an expensive item and will clean the seat effectively without the risk of scratching the mating surface. I would also suggest flushing the tap body before reassembly as you don't want any of the scraped-off deposits contaminating the cartridge - just open the isolation valve very slightly (unless you want to wash the ceiling) or slightly turn on the other tap if you're working on a mixer. Great stuff! Thanks for posting.
Just on limescale a trick I like to use is soaking parts in 50% lemon juice and 50% boiling water for 20-30 minutes. It means you don't have to scratch it off and risk any damage. Works super well on a kettle just fill it with lemon juice and water boil and let it sit. I use the cheap lemon juice from a supermarket.
Just stripped and cleaned the hot and cold ceramic cartridges on my mixer tap, didn't find any scale on anything (soft water area) and all 4 ceramic discs were smoooooth, but there was a lot of plastic swarf in the 90° stop recesses "above" the ceramics. I suspect this was preventing full closure! Cleaned as needed, reassembled and now no more letting by :-)
That was a very helpful video. My Rangemaster tap is dripping on the cold side and a new cartridge if that is the correct name is £19 plus p&p. I will try to fix my dripping tap myself after watching your video.
Thanks for the video. I have a set of the very same exyfix wall taps. The plumber that installed them took the tool with him when we did the shower area. Now the valves are leaking a bit and need to remove them to fix them or replace them, which is difficult to do without the tool. But at least I know what to do and what I need to do it. Thanks once again. It was a pity, though, that the last half of the video did not show what you were doing with the spindle, as it was away from the camera area.
Thanks. I will see if I can help with any missing information. I had a quick look at the video again, not sure which part of the last half you are referring to. If you can tell me the time point and information needed that might help, I’ll see if I can add something.
In the name of progress these ceramic valves seem very over engineered,compared to simply just replacing a rubber washer on conventional taps , or a simple reseating tool to improve the seal with washer and outlet. Thanks for showing the possible fix by disassemble and clean up. I am diy when I can,🤑
Have you tried putting all the pieces into a some regular citric acid descaler? And maybe down into the tap once the cylinder is out too? Maybe it would do something to the rubber o-rings?
No doubt that would help a bit but acid dissolving of scale is a slow process and not always 100% effective in my experience. No harm in trying though.
As long as your taps are not being used for potable (drinking) water, a thin film of Vaseline between the two ceramic discs should be okay. I would not consider any other lubrication.
Thank you for this helpful guide. there doesnt seem to be any retaining screw on my square bath taps. Is it just a matter of forcing the cap up with a screwdriver?
Any tips for how to remove the unit from the ring it sits in that screws into the body of the tap? As soon as I start to undo the brass unit, the rest of it unscrews as well and I don't want to damage the housing.
You’ll have to get a wrench on the body of the tap but isolate it from damaging it with rags or something or maybe put a tube over the tap for leverage.
I take mine apart and soak the valve body and the disks in pure white vinegar for 12 hours. I brush the parts with an old toothbrush every 4-6 hours and rinse well at the end. I don't soak the bottom seal if it separates from the disks. I clean it off with vinegar and rinse it off. There's usually no need to remove the top snap ring that's closer to the handle end of the valve. It usually services no purpose in removing the disks at the other end. This has worked for me.
I have some food grade acetic acid powder and would mix up a small pretty strong lot and soak all the components of the valve insert for two to three hours then rinse in warmish water to get rid of the acid. This will eat every bit of limescale completely. And providing there are no scratches on the mating ceramic surfaces this should sort any leaks out completely. I also use a strong hot water solution down the toilet to get rid of stubborn under water limescale marks after using toilet brush to try to drive as much of the standing water out of the pan before putting the hot acetic acid in the pan. ( I use hot water as it dissolves the powder much better than using cold)
If the tap hasn’t got an isolator, you’ll have to turn off the mains Coldwater going into the house then turn on the cold and the hot taps long enough to relieve the pressure or to drain off the cold water tank until it stops flowing
The shower attachment will only drip if the tap valve is leaking so the only reason to remove the shower valve would usually be if it was sticking. Probably unscrews but I’ve not had to take one off yet.
If there are definitely no screws holding it then it should pull off vertically. Try levering it off with a long screw driver alternating from each side. It probably has calcium deposits sticking it in place that need loosening.
You say that all the measurements are available on-line, but what if you can't find out what make of tap it is ? The one you dismantled is the strangest design I've ever seen. Mine is Late Victorian /Edwardian STYLE, with classic Cross Heads, but not like those on-line. I've given up repairing it, and want to switch to Ceramic. But where do I start? The 'Shroud' is like a Table Lamp Shade, will it fit over Ceramic inner's ?
Thanks for this video. Super useful. Out of curiosity, was the shower head attachment also leaking originally? We have the same type of bath taps / shower combo and both of them leak depending on which attachment you want to use (I.e if closed to use bath tap, the bath tap will leak after 5-10 mins OR if open to use shower attachment, then that will leak, but never both at the same time).
Yes, if it is switched to shower then thats the one that will leak. On mine it switches back to taps when the water flow is low, so was always the tap with the drip. It is still working drip free now. Zero cost spent.
If anyone wants good reliable taps, which hardly ever drip, and if they do require a simple change of a rubber washer then AVOID taps with these devises. They are a pain in the arse.
Just goes to show, expensive and complete crap..... the ones mine replaced were fine for 29years, 12 months and these are crudded, corroded and outside warranty.
There is a lot of stuff of low quality around, usually from china in my experience, but that is like everything. People want cheap, they get low quality.
It’s a DIY channel but what is ‘not professional’ about using a socket a wrench and a screwdriver? Barely much else used. They got the job done and it hasn't dripped since.
Thanks for this brilliant video
Thanks.
This is the first video I have seen that gives the principle of operation. Over 15 years I have repaired mine twice, and never was it deposits sticking on the two discs that caused the problem, in my opinion. Cleaning is good, but some measures to counteract aging of the unit guarantees success.
Thanks, yes, ‘softening’ the water (removing calcium from the water) with a water softener unit is a good step for plumbing longevity.
I am female 76 and thanks to your very clear unstructions I was able to fix my dripping tap!
Great, well done!
@@comeinhandynow Sadly it's started dripping again. It all looked clean so don't know why. No sure what to do next?
Thanks, man. I've helped multiple residents in my block with dripping taps, but this was my first time coming across on one of these. Helped me fix the dripping tap quickly without a replacement. This video was greatly appreciated 😁👍.
Great, well done. Thanks for the feedback. Please subscribe and share!
You are a absolute legend. Wish I found your video sooner. Watched all the other ones on RUclips saying to replace the whole gland but I couldn’t find the right size anywhere. Followed your instructions and now the annoying drip has vanished 🎉 thank you so much
Thanks and great to see more people fixing things.
Excellent step-by-step video. It certainly is worth servicing a cartridge where possible, not just to save money, but because it can be a right nightmare finding a compatible replacement with the right dimensions, pressure-rating, number of splines etc. This is especially true for some of those cheaper taps with no brand-name.
I would suggest - as others have - that soaking the components in white vinegar then using an old toothbrush to clean off the residue is most effective. When cleaning the deposits off the valve-seat in the tap body, I would recommend investing in a tap re-seating tool which isn't an expensive item and will clean the seat effectively without the risk of scratching the mating surface. I would also suggest flushing the tap body before reassembly as you don't want any of the scraped-off deposits contaminating the cartridge - just open the isolation valve very slightly (unless you want to wash the ceiling) or slightly turn on the other tap if you're working on a mixer.
Great stuff! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for you comments and ideas.
Thank you so much, you just saved about 8 cartridges going to landfill! Thank you thank you
Glad it helped.
Just on limescale a trick I like to use is soaking parts in 50% lemon juice and 50% boiling water for 20-30 minutes. It means you don't have to scratch it off and risk any damage. Works super well on a kettle just fill it with lemon juice and water boil and let it sit. I use the cheap lemon juice from a supermarket.
Thanks, good tip. Vinegar is another acid that also works.
good video no nonsense or theatricals or annoying music. very thorough thanks
Thanks
Just stripped and cleaned the hot and cold ceramic cartridges on my mixer tap, didn't find any scale on anything (soft water area) and all 4 ceramic discs were smoooooth, but there was a lot of plastic swarf in the 90° stop recesses "above" the ceramics. I suspect this was preventing full closure!
Cleaned as needed, reassembled and now no more letting by :-)
Great, well done.
Thank you sir, I have conquered the fearsome tap drip and am basking in the splendour of victory.
Excellent, well done.
That was a very helpful video. My Rangemaster tap is dripping on the cold side and a new cartridge if that is the correct name is £19 plus p&p. I will try to fix my dripping tap myself after watching your video.
Thanks. Good luck.
I'm going to dash out to the shops right now to buy a 17 inch socket for the 17 inch nut. 😄
Wow thanks mate, feel like I know what I’m doing now. Gonna order the parts this over the weekend and tackle next week 😁
Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I have a set of the very same exyfix wall taps. The plumber that installed them took the tool with him when we did the shower area. Now the valves are leaking a bit and need to remove them to fix them or replace them, which is difficult to do without the tool. But at least I know what to do and what I need to do it. Thanks once again. It was a pity, though, that the last half of the video did not show what you were doing with the spindle, as it was away from the camera area.
Thanks. I will see if I can help with any missing information. I had a quick look at the video again, not sure which part of the last half you are referring to. If you can tell me the time point and information needed that might help, I’ll see if I can add something.
Thank you very much, saves me money and new ideas added to my knowledge..👍👍
Cheers
In the name of progress these ceramic valves seem very over engineered,compared to simply just replacing a rubber washer on conventional taps , or a simple reseating tool to improve the seal with washer and outlet.
Thanks for showing the possible fix by disassemble and clean up.
I am diy when I can,🤑
Good to hear. Keep up the DIY!
Thank for your video.Explained very nicely.👍🙏🏻
Thanks
Have you tried putting all the pieces into a some regular citric acid descaler?
And maybe down into the tap once the cylinder is out too?
Maybe it would do something to the rubber o-rings?
No doubt that would help a bit but acid dissolving of scale is a slow process and not always 100% effective in my experience. No harm in trying though.
Nice one mate, no more drip drip, what with the cost of utilities these days, confident doing this after your advice! Thanks
Sod cleaning it got brand new pair tenna, job done!
Thanks. New or fix, it’s your choice. There is something satisfying in fixing stuff though, apart from the money saved. Saving all that CO2 perhaps.
Hi, other youtubers suggest putting some vaseline or other on the 2 surfaces of the disc, what do you think?
Not sure I would want that coming out of the tap.
As long as your taps are not being used for potable (drinking) water, a thin film of Vaseline between the two ceramic discs should be okay. I would not consider any other lubrication.
Thank you for this helpful guide. there doesnt seem to be any retaining screw on my square bath taps. Is it just a matter of forcing the cap up with a screwdriver?
Thanks. It is difficult to tell you remotely, you will have to try and analyse and work out how it comes apart, with a bit of trying different things.
Nice one cheers mate
Thanks
Any tips for how to remove the unit from the ring it sits in that screws into the body of the tap? As soon as I start to undo the brass unit, the rest of it unscrews as well and I don't want to damage the housing.
You’ll have to get a wrench on the body of the tap but isolate it from damaging it with rags or something or maybe put a tube over the tap for leverage.
I take mine apart and soak the valve body and the disks in pure white vinegar for 12 hours. I brush the parts with an old toothbrush every 4-6 hours and rinse well at the end.
I don't soak the bottom seal if it separates from the disks. I clean it off with vinegar and rinse it off.
There's usually no need to remove the top snap ring that's closer to the handle end of the valve. It usually services no purpose in removing the disks at the other end.
This has worked for me.
Thanks for your input.
I have some food grade acetic acid powder and would mix up a small pretty strong lot and soak all the components of the valve insert for two to three hours then rinse in warmish water to get rid of the acid. This will eat every bit of limescale completely. And providing there are no scratches on the mating ceramic surfaces this should sort any leaks out completely. I also use a strong hot water solution down the toilet to get rid of stubborn under water limescale marks after using toilet brush to try to drive as much of the standing water out of the pan before putting the hot acetic acid in the pan. ( I use hot water as it dissolves the powder much better than using cold)
How do you isolate the hot water if you cannot see an isolator under the sink?
If the tap hasn’t got an isolator, you’ll have to turn off the mains Coldwater going into the house then turn on the cold and the hot taps long enough to relieve the pressure or to drain off the cold water tank until it stops flowing
@@socialfun621 Ok perfect - sounds like a job after the morning showers when hot water in tank has been used, cheers
@@gittin_funky drain off the cold water pressure first before doing the hot then you won’t loose too much hot water.
@@comeinhandynow cheers - great channel
Hi, What about the valve for the shower itself? Do you just need to unscrew that or smth? Thanks.
The shower attachment will only drip if the tap valve is leaking so the only reason to remove the shower valve would usually be if it was sticking. Probably unscrews but I’ve not had to take one off yet.
How did you get the tap head off? Got similar tap with no screw hole but doesn't want to shift,
If there are definitely no screws holding it then it should pull off vertically. Try levering it off with a long screw driver alternating from each side. It probably has calcium deposits sticking it in place that need loosening.
Zucchetti R98103.8123 Ceramic Disc Mixer Tap Cartridge 38mm.. How to fix leak from tis one. Thx
Probably similar to that in the video. Have a go.
You say that all the measurements are available on-line, but what if you can't find out what make of tap it is ? The one you dismantled is the strangest design I've ever seen. Mine is Late Victorian /Edwardian STYLE, with classic Cross Heads, but not like those on-line. I've given up repairing it, and want to switch to Ceramic. But where do I start? The 'Shroud' is like a Table Lamp Shade, will it fit over Ceramic inner's ?
It sounds like you will need to change the whole tap or pair of taps.
what is the brand of that stem sir. Cheers?
Don’t know, but the internals of these type of taps are all the same or very similar.
@@comeinhandynow they are p
Price phister sir
Thanks for this video. Super useful.
Out of curiosity, was the shower head attachment also leaking originally?
We have the same type of bath taps / shower combo and both of them leak depending on which attachment you want to use (I.e if closed to use bath tap, the bath tap will leak after 5-10 mins OR if open to use shower attachment, then that will leak, but never both at the same time).
Yes, if it is switched to shower then thats the one that will leak. On mine it switches back to taps when the water flow is low, so was always the tap with the drip. It is still working drip free now. Zero cost spent.
Hello I’ve changed both my hot and cold valves for new ones and still my mixer tap is dripping. Please help
Sounds like one is faulty or maybe some corrosion on the body is causing it. Dismantle it again and try and see what the problem can be.
If anyone wants good reliable taps, which hardly ever drip, and if they do require a simple change of a rubber washer then AVOID taps with these devises. They are a pain in the arse.
Taps with old fashioned rubber washers drip as well.
Just goes to show, expensive and complete crap..... the ones mine replaced were fine for 29years, 12 months and these are crudded, corroded and outside warranty.
There is a lot of stuff of low quality around, usually from china in my experience, but that is like everything. People want cheap, they get low quality.
@@comeinhandynow they weren’t cheap!
@@sre331l they were for the manufacturer!! 😄
17 millimetre socket, not 17 inch. 🤣👍
Whoops! Correct thanks.
Wow, at no time was the correct tool use! Not very professional.
It’s a DIY channel but what is ‘not professional’ about using a socket a wrench and a screwdriver? Barely much else used. They got the job done and it hasn't dripped since.
John, does the tap drip? Has he shown how he fixed it without buying a new cartridge? What's your problem again?