Hey. You only want to go as far as the hole for the cotter pin. So tighten the nut until you see the hole and put the pin in and bend it in opposite directions around the nut. Thanks and Stay Tuned !
Another example of overpriced cheap plastic crap that helped kill OMC. That black plastic knob is weak, always snaps off/wears at the snap ring groove. The threaded stop is misdesigned as well, the thread don't extend far enough down the plastic stop. The raised portion of the stop gets jammed on the aluminum guide forcing both pieces downward, making it harder to adjust and premature failure. I usually end up filing/extending the flat portion of the threaded plastic stop. Your repair is very resourceful though!That gearcase looks real nice, no corrosion/erosion on the housing below the SS impeller plate. Looks like the original style aluminum impeller hsg, but hard to tell on the video. Would love to see more lube on the fasteners for salt water use, but probably missed it due to video editing. Using a new driveshaft oring and OMC moly lube on the splines is so important. You really need an extra arm to get these units reinstalled by yourself! Don't forget to check shift lever detent adjustment.That prop is beautiful, looks brand new. What pitch size is it, hopefully the standard 10" pitch, the old 15hp doesn't have the power to spin up the newer larger pitch props meant for the big bore engines...Nice save, it pains me to see these engines scrapped or parted out....The "low tension" ignition is a pain, and often misunderstood, but it can be reliable with frequent/proper servicing and adjustment.
Hey, thanks. I have even have put a screw in the end of the plastic stop so it would reach, it worked pretty good. The pump does have the ss liner in it but I dont plan on putting it in saltwater and it is a standard size prop. I got her out in the water and she ran pretty good! Stay tuned ! thx
I don’t think you should put silicone there parts of it can get stuck in the head later I think you only need gasket sealer I looked that up in the manual you would figure it would be good
Hey. Well, like I said in the video " normally I wouldnt put anything on there" But I did. Its Permatex Black ultra oil resistant silicone Gasket Maker. Pretty tuff stuff. Back in the 70's they didn't use gaskets on the pumps like they do now. So no gasket to seal. I think I put it on the because it was pitted. Anyway That motor has been sold twice since I built it. Thanks !
Good idea on fixing that idle adjust knob. Everyone I've worked on has been worn down, ive just permenatley fixed them with gasket maker before.
Thanks man.
Should have put some grease or anti-seize on those 4 water pump housing bolts...
👍 Thx.
I hope that replacement handle pin CONTRACTS as it goes in the hole actually...!
👌 Thanks again !
How tight are you supposed to crank the prop nut on this motor?
Hey. You only want to go as far as the hole for the cotter pin. So tighten the nut until you see the hole and put the pin in and bend it in opposite directions around the nut. Thanks and Stay Tuned !
Another example of overpriced cheap plastic crap that helped kill OMC. That black plastic knob is weak, always snaps off/wears at the snap ring groove. The threaded stop is misdesigned as well, the thread don't extend far enough down the plastic stop. The raised portion of the stop gets jammed on the aluminum guide forcing both pieces downward, making it harder to adjust and premature failure. I usually end up filing/extending the flat portion of the threaded plastic stop. Your repair is very resourceful though!That gearcase looks real nice, no corrosion/erosion on the housing below the SS impeller plate. Looks like the original style aluminum impeller hsg, but hard to tell on the video. Would love to see more lube on the fasteners for salt water use, but probably missed it due to video editing. Using a new driveshaft oring and OMC moly lube on the splines is so important. You really need an extra arm to get these units reinstalled by yourself! Don't forget to check shift lever detent adjustment.That prop is beautiful, looks brand new. What pitch size is it, hopefully the standard 10" pitch, the old 15hp doesn't have the power to spin up the newer larger pitch props meant for the big bore engines...Nice save, it pains me to see these engines scrapped or parted out....The "low tension" ignition is a pain, and often misunderstood, but it can be reliable with frequent/proper servicing and adjustment.
Hey, thanks. I have even have put a screw in the end of the plastic stop so it would reach, it worked pretty good. The pump does have the ss liner in it but I dont plan on putting it in saltwater and it is a standard size prop. I got her out in the water and she ran pretty good! Stay tuned ! thx
Cool!
I'm working on one of these two I need a propeller for it I have a new fuel pump ordering right now and I'm putting a new impeller in its 1974
Hey, sounds cool man. r u posting vids? Stay tuned ! thx
yes can you find me a rich and lean knob?
try this, www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0319152
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=0319152+-+Adjusting+Knob&_sacat=0
www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0319152
I don’t think you should put silicone there parts of it can get stuck in the head later I think you only need gasket sealer I looked that up in the manual you would figure it would be good
Hey. Well, like I said in the video " normally I wouldnt put anything on there" But I did. Its Permatex Black ultra oil resistant silicone Gasket Maker. Pretty tuff stuff. Back in the 70's they didn't use gaskets on the pumps like they do now. So no gasket to seal. I think I put it on the because it was pitted. Anyway That motor has been sold twice since I built it. Thanks !