I build and repair quads, and i also enjoy repairing electronics in general. Thermal camera, psu, air station, good and powerful solder station, stereoscope 10x, etc, all good tools to have
I use a cheap digital microscope from Ali and it's really good for the basic tasks I need to do. Yes, a stereoscope is better, but also a lot bigger, heavier and more expensive, and not needed for basic soldering and troubleshooting.
A good soldering wire is important as well. I don’t know how many times I have helped people with soldering problems and a good soldering wire did magic for them.
A very good selection. I would add getting isopropanol and a toothbrush for cleaning, since I end up doing that a lot, not only of solder joints but general cleaning.
I’ve heard and seen a few reviews on a couple other soldering irons which looks better than the hakko, but I think the important part is to go over the threshold of “cheap” soldering station. I love my hakko, no need for me to change it. It really was a game changer.
Great content. I assume the voltage setting is 4.2 x the number of cells the drone takes (6s, 4s, etc.). Would the 0.40 amp setting be enough for any FPV drone?
Thanks! Not necessarily 4.2v. You don’t need to simulated a fully charged battery. In fact I normally use 16v for most of my tests despite I can be working with 6S drones. The current is more important. You can see in the video I used 0.5A and it was enough to hear the start beeps but it got into current protection mode. That happened with this drone which draws a lot of current. If I were to test the motors for example that 0.5 won’t be enough. So the answer is: it depends on the drone. I normally start with something between 0.4 if it’s a small drone, or 0.7 if it’s a 5”, but to test motors I have to go normally over 1amp.
I build and repair quads, and i also enjoy repairing electronics in general. Thermal camera, psu, air station, good and powerful solder station, stereoscope 10x, etc, all good tools to have
Oh the magnifier… yeah… I thought it was only me and my bad eyes 😂
@@NordFPV and mine! 100%
I use a cheap digital microscope from Ali and it's really good for the basic tasks I need to do. Yes, a stereoscope is better, but also a lot bigger, heavier and more expensive, and not needed for basic soldering and troubleshooting.
@@lazyhominid it seems like a good idea, actually.
best soldering wire. "Kester" soldering wire ,No-Clean, 63/37
Where do you normally get it?
A good soldering wire is important as well. I don’t know how many times I have helped people with soldering problems and a good soldering wire did magic for them.
@@NordFPV Amazon
A very good selection. I would add getting isopropanol and a toothbrush for cleaning, since I end up doing that a lot, not only of solder joints but general cleaning.
Yeah. I missed that. Good catch!
Thank you for the video. I would agree with everything you said. Hakko is my favourite tool, it's rly a game changer.
I’ve heard and seen a few reviews on a couple other soldering irons which looks better than the hakko, but I think the important part is to go over the threshold of “cheap” soldering station. I love my hakko, no need for me to change it. It really was a game changer.
Great content. I assume the voltage setting is 4.2 x the number of cells the drone takes (6s, 4s, etc.). Would the 0.40 amp setting be enough for any FPV drone?
Thanks! Not necessarily 4.2v. You don’t need to simulated a fully charged battery. In fact I normally use 16v for most of my tests despite I can be working with 6S drones.
The current is more important. You can see in the video I used 0.5A and it was enough to hear the start beeps but it got into current protection mode. That happened with this drone which draws a lot of current. If I were to test the motors for example that 0.5 won’t be enough. So the answer is: it depends on the drone. I normally start with something between 0.4 if it’s a small drone, or 0.7 if it’s a 5”, but to test motors I have to go normally over 1amp.
@@NordFPV Thanks for the information!
Toothbrush for cleaning the solder joints?
Just use a no clean flux :)
I do have one in my toolbox. But I wouldn’t call it one of my favorites. I actually use it less than what I should.