I've been doing this for a few years now but theres always something new to learn. I love how it removes rust from within the surface wich leaves a pitted surface on something very old. It's so easy to do, just water wasing soda + voltage. Note I always do it in a ventilated area. I really like your use of a kiddey's pool for the larger jobs. I heard of a bloke who used a DC welder and the swimming pool to clean up a car body... It did such a good job it got rid of the Misses as well! LOL.
Keith, we use this process to restore old motorcycle fuel tanks that are rusty inside. We put the anode (a length of steel angle connected to the + lead) inside a length of PVC pipe to prevent shorting, insert the pipe into the tank which is filled with a solution of water and washing soda. The whole tank becomes the cathode and is connected to the (-) lead from the power source. It sometimes takes a couple of weeks putting 25 amps from a battery charger into the solution to come completely clean; the anode is cleaned about once a day. Once the tank is clean, it is drained, flushed and dried. Optionally a sealer is applied but not always. It works great.
I have been doing a lot of research on this process because I want setup a small tank for some parts. Of all the videos I have watched I have to say yours is probably the most informative. You actually got into the chemistry side of it to not only explain how it works, but why. Thank you for that.
Thank you! I saw this process here and decided to give it a try on an OLD leather stitcher, one that was used for saddlers ect... The flywheel wouldn't budge when I found it in the remains of a burned out barn. I used a plastic trash can and 2 old computer power supplies. I let it spin for almost 48 hours. Just peering into the trash can I 'knew' that I had an interesting piece of yard art; BUT, when I pulled it out the wheel turned and after the remainder of the afternoon and a good part of the night not to mention a bloody set of knuckles I now have a usable machine....I just finished stripping it down and I wanted to thank you before I go to town for wax - I want to soak all the pieces in hot paraffin so that it stays usable! So, thanks again and nice to meet you!
I'm a newer subscriber, and I know this video is about 5 years old, but thank you so much. I've been restoring my brakes and grinding rust out of all the nooks and crannies of the caliper castings for days when I saw this. I now have a 25gal tank powered by a 30A 12V power supply with both calipers and brackets suspended from a buss I made that sits across the top and using my old trash rotors as sacrifice material in the bottom. Working like a champ, thank you again.
Thank you for a wonderful presentation on the use of Electrolysis for rust removal. Not only good information, well presented but also with self effacement and humility that is so rare but so endearing. thank you Asress
Keith, first of all thank you for all your good hearted instruction, I enjoy watching and learning. This 58 year old dog can learn new tricks. I have improved this method by using a salvaged pool filter pump, the kids are grown so dad gets to use it.
Thank you for this interesting video. There are a lot of things about electrolysis on the web, but, they are usually about small things and are not always complete! Great information thanks again for posting. Regards, Matthew
Great explanation. I've wanted to try electrolysis on some antiques, but I didn't understand the chemistry behind it. I'm glad you included it. Excellent presentation. Thanks!
I've used this process on antique car parts. It works really well to a point. It is helpful with bringing sheet metal back to the point it can be patched. Thanks For Sharing!
Thanks Keith. Excellent demo. I have used this to restore old hand planes, chisels, saws, etc. i use a 3 amp DC power supply. Cathodic protection is also used on underground fuel tanks with a sacrificial anode.
Thank you for a very succinct well spoken presentation. Very interesting extra information regarding preservation of battleships etc too. I hope to use what you've taught me on some parts i have. Greetings from the UK
Watched it again, still stuff to learn. That would be a selling point for older videos, the tools and processes don't change, but when watching again, there are other things you may have missed the first time...
Keith, thanks for taking time to explain the physics and chemistry in play here as well. I already knew how to do it but didn't know the 1/2 of the bonus material you shared.
It's one thing to show us what to do,,,, But your explanation of How it works,, and what's going on the whole time.,,, Is extraordinary!! (and the added safety tips!) Thank You!!!
You can also use soda blasting as a non-marring solution to remove oxides from sensitive materials. Automotive restoration shops use it as a way to remove oxide from thin body panels without damaging the metal. Great video BTW.
Good presentation. You got almost all the terminology correct. The main thing is that you explained clearly how to do it and got the desired results. Proud of you, Georgia Boy.
RUclips is special...I went from watching videos about the video game Subnautica to ending up here watching a 30 minute video on rust removal. Great video by the way.
All your videos are so relaxing and informative and a pleasure to watch. Especially in this pandemic situation. I wish you all the best! God bless you!
thanks again Keith, the kiddie pool idea is beautiful, as i am about to bring a number 3 milwaukee mill home ive been fumbling around to figure out a container large enough to do an electrolysis bath with it, and the kiddie pool will work out great for everything but the main body vertical ways. thanks again for taking the time to preserve and pass along your knowledge. DJ
Thanks for an excellent video Keith. I have used the electrolytic rust removal process countless times but on a smaller scale (5 gallon bucket). A useful tip to remember is that the electrons flow more easily in straight lines i.e., line of sight. It is better to have the piece being cleaned, surrounded by sacrificial electrodes, instead of just 1 on each side. I used to utilize window weights as my sacrificial electrodes. In the case of this large piece, you could have also suspended some pieces of rebar over the top of the saw table as sacrificial electrodes.
I know it's 2 years old... but... "electrons flow more easily in straight lines ie line of sight" WTF? that's the most "curious" think I've heard for a while! Next time there's a storm, watch the lightning!!! There must be an incredible amount of "back pressure" in household wiring because of the non-straight wiring. That electrons flow in a straight line in a crookes tube in no way demonstrates any significant resistance to electrons flowing through wire with curves in it.
Hi Keith, since your demonstration I have been cooking parts I bought from a shop. The price was right but most all of them where totally rusted due to a leaky roof where they were stored... Little did I know until using the electrolysis process that the almost unrecognizable small 4 jaw chuck I bought, turned out to be USA made for Southbend. One comment after cooking, I immediately use my pressure washer (1500psi) to blast off the residue. It does a great job and gets into the tight places where brushes may not reach I compressed air dry them and coat with WD-40. When I have time, I plan to take them completely apart and do whatever needed to bring them back in service. Thank you for your hard work at the museum I hope to visit someday. Harvey from Nebraska
Great stuff Keith - thanks for the lesson...will try this on an old jointer I've got. I was wondering how I'd restore and I think you've shown me the way.
Very nice demonstration Keith. I learned quite a bit, and would like to one day try it out for myself. The table top cleaned up great! Thank you for showing is this demonstration.
Nice job Keith! I've used electrolysis on parts before but just in a 5 gallon pail, never thought about using something as big as a pool...until now! ;-) Thanks! Jeff
Hey just dipped myself into Electrolysis. I know the process and all is working good. Its actually my second run. I am removing rust from my bike's tank. The question How can i prevent gas tank from rusting again !!!
Thanks for this great video. I'm currently using this on my 1937 Studebaker President sedan rebuild. Just in the first few hours I couldn't believe the progress. Much easier than sandblasting and it doesn't damage the machined surfaces or warp the metal .
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org you didn't show where you connected the negative to the work material, I wondered if you needed to connect that in a certain way that kept the current coming into the piece and not just by passing into the anode? (or cathode, anode was negative right?) or does the current just proliferate through the electrolyte enough that a small amount of anode exposed before the connection doesn't cause issue?
Hi Keith, just wanted to say I enjoy your videos and think you are very good at figuring out how to get parts to work better than a lot of people I have seen. You do not do things just to get them functional, yoiu take the extra steps to do it right. I have the same mentality, if you do it make it last and look halfway decent. Glad I stumbled on your channel, and hope you continue to post videos for a long time to come. I have learned a lot and hope to learn more.
A really nice video. You seem to be on top of the game on all of the restoration projects. The museum is lucky to have you helping them. Thanks for sharing.
Keith, An excellent job on your explanation. One thing that I think you missed is to warn the viewers not to use stainless steel sacrificial anodes, as this would turn your salt water solution into hexavalent chromium. This is a very hazardous material and you can not easily dispose of it safely.
LOL !! SALT SOLUTION ?? WTF !! TRY BORAX. I USE SS ANODE AND CATHODE TO MAKE OXY-HYDROGEN, HHO, AKA... BROWNS GAS. AS FAR AS I KNOW ... IT MAKES PURE WATER AS IT COMBUSTS. I DUNNO WHICH ALLOY YOU USE... !!
Hi Keith, As an amateur machinist and practicing engineer, I have watched most of your videos and greatly enjoy them. Keep up the good work! Regarding this video I felt I had to send you a comment. First, you will have faster results if you use copper wire (steel is not as good a conductor), which will lessen the amount of current being converted into heat. Also, spot or tack weld the end of the copper wire to your electrode to eliminate the contact resistance which also causes more heat. Secondly, regarding the USS Lexington, you might like to know that all ships with metal hulls have sacrificial anodes (called zincs) attached to the hull. As the ship moves through the earth's magnetic field a small current is induced and would eventually dissolve the screws (propellers) and/or rudder. Instead, the zincs erode and must be periodically replaced. Finally, I love it when an engineer such as yourself, takes the theory from physics or chemistry and uses it in a practical way to produce the desired result. Thanks again!
***** Keith, you are absolutely correct. I was specifically targeting the conductance of the wiring. I suggest that you keep the wiring out of the solution as you have done for your anodes in the video. For the cathode, a short stub of rebar tacked onto an edge or the bottom of the machined plate that sticks up out of the solution provides a connection point for the copper wire without tainting the solution. In any event, an excellent video and great example of practical science.
Keith Rucker Thank you for mentioning the USS Lexington CVA16. That was my dad's ship. He was the radar operator. How awesome, I knew they were using electrolysis on it and was thinking of that while you were speaking.
Nice video. Thanks for the presentation. I use electrolysis commonly to restore vintage rifles and parts. You don't have to worry about hydrogen build up, simply because it recombines immediately with oxygen. Explosions happen only if hydrogen gets in contact with oxygen in the exact proportion of the H2O equation. This is not happening as the bubbles coming out of the anode and the cathode immediately get together again and don not build up. It's safe. Don't worry.
Really enjoyed this. You have a very relaxing way about you while all the time giving out a good deal of information. I just started using this process a week ago on some woodworking tools purshased on Ebay - table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, shaper and drill press. All had little to no use but have a good deal of rust on the machined surfaces. Got my work cut out for me. Subscribed. Thank you!
Well done, Sir! Good video. I have some rusty machinery I have been procrastinating over... This inspired me to get going on it. Btw, it's not anoid and cathoid, it's anode and cathode. Thanks again! Cheers!
Keith, great explanation of this process. Many people do not know of this process or realize its value in maintaining surface quality. I do have a suggestion that may help you with larger items like this. There is a tool called an electric burnisher, it is an angle grinder with a 4" roll on it. The rolls are available in the scotch-brite material and work very well for finishing this type of part. Metabo has one as well as other import companies.
Great video Keith, thanks for sharing. I'm looking to remove surface rust from car brake hubs/rotors and calipers and I didn't want to use acid based liquids as they would also start to degrade the finished surfaces. This looks like it will do a much better job. A lot slower than hydrochloric acid and such but much more controlled and safer. Also using acids has the potential to make these components more brittle and could cause failure into the future. Cheers Andy
Thanks for a very informative video. I wish I had seen this before restoring the table on my old Petrie 36" bandsaw. You may recall it from the OWWM website - you helped to identify it. Dave Schinbeckler
19th century cast iron maschinery and tools.....gotta love it...... i first caught the bug when i got to sit in an old steam engine (traction engine) hooked up with a big belt pulley to a rock stamper/crusher on the goldfeilds in hill end in outback n.s.w.....i have been in awe ever since......good work saving that planer.
We did that same experiment. Work fast and get it neutralized and oiled. Zinc billets used to be attached to the ships hull to help protect them from rust. I am looking at a lathe that will need some electrolysis if I buy it. Great video.
Thanks, Keith! Mr. Pete222 did some videos on electrolysis a while back. It's an interesting process. It looks like you have that saw table looking like new in no time. Thanks again! Regards, Dave
I've seen other vids on this, but as usual yours is much clearer and more thorough explanation. Your talk about the machined surface has made me think. What I would really like to see is you hand scraping a surface to truth.
Just an afterthought but an important one. Since watching engineering videos on RUclips I've seen quite a few descriptions of the process you described. Some good, some bad. What I liked about yours was the fulness of it. The description of the chemical process. Most times knowing the HOW is sufficient but when things go wrong, only knowing the WHY will get you through.
Great video! Another big disadvantage of using regular table salt is that some of the chlorine will remain dissolved in the water and will react with the item you are trying to clean.
This instructional Video could not come at a better time. I recently got back some scaffold I loaned out to a family member that left them outside for two years. These pieces could easily be replaced but why spend money on something so simple to clean? Thank You Mr. Rucker. God Bless you and Your family, Have a Merry Christmas.
Thank You! As a kid, we used dry cleaning bags (super thin plastic) to capture the gas. We had fun with chemistry! Reminds me to check the TIG tank. It is 30 year old Stainless Steel Tank (300 series, not magnetic)... Need to look at the MSDS for the Miller Coolant...
It's "cathode" and "anode," my friend - not cathoid and anoid. :) I'm really enjoying your videos, however. You are a very talented, skilled, and knowledgeable craftsman. Thank you for taking the time to bring these informative programs to us. I am disabled, so you provide me an enjoyable way to work vicariously, through you and your shop adventures.
@@joshprice6954 I had to search what solenoid means. But i do appreciate the value of cultural diversity - local dialects that is. The communists in my country have made dialects go extinct. Thanx for your response.Stay safe.
I have used this process for years restoring antique engines and have experimented with different sacrificial anode materials from rebar to lawn mower blades. The best i have found to date is graphite. I got free scraps from a machine shop that makes electrodes for EDM machines. The graphite really conducts well and doesn't need to be cleaned during the process. It eventually erodes but it lasts a long time. I cut larger chunks into the right size with a simple handsaw.
I've been doing this for a few years now but theres always something new to learn. I love how it removes rust from within the surface wich leaves a pitted surface on something very old. It's so easy to do, just water wasing soda + voltage. Note I always do it in a ventilated area. I really like your use of a kiddey's pool for the larger jobs.
I heard of a bloke who used a DC welder and the swimming pool to clean up a car body... It did such a good job it got rid of the Misses as well! LOL.
Keith, we use this process to restore old motorcycle fuel tanks that are rusty inside. We put the anode (a length of steel angle connected to the + lead) inside a length of PVC pipe to prevent shorting, insert the pipe into the tank which is filled with a solution of water and washing soda. The whole tank becomes the cathode and is connected to the (-) lead from the power source. It sometimes takes a couple of weeks putting 25 amps from a battery charger into the solution to come completely clean; the anode is cleaned about once a day. Once the tank is clean, it is drained, flushed and dried. Optionally a sealer is applied but not always. It works great.
25 amps over a couple weeks? Sounds like this takes a lot of electrical energy...
What type of sealer do you use?
@@MikeSmith-vb8ul It can but it has practical applications on complicated parts or items which are difficult to replace.
@@CharlesLeo I have not found a great sealer for the inside of the tanks. There are several on the market.
@@shannonstebbens6992 I should have clarified that I was wondering in general for exterior use.
I have been doing a lot of research on this process because I want setup a small tank for some parts. Of all the videos I have watched I have to say yours is probably the most informative. You actually got into the chemistry side of it to not only explain how it works, but why. Thank you for that.
Keith - thank you for this video - I followed your steps and my old cast iron caldron and griddle were de-rusted like magic.
Thank you!
I saw this process here and decided to give it a try on an OLD leather stitcher, one that was used for saddlers ect... The flywheel wouldn't budge when I found it in the remains of a burned out barn. I used a plastic trash can and 2 old computer power supplies. I let it spin for almost 48 hours. Just peering into the trash can I 'knew' that I had an interesting piece of yard art; BUT, when I pulled it out the wheel turned and after the remainder of the afternoon and a good part of the night not to mention a bloody set of knuckles I now have a usable machine....I just finished stripping it down and I wanted to thank you before I go to town for wax - I want to soak all the pieces in hot paraffin so that it stays usable!
So, thanks again and nice to meet you!
I'm a newer subscriber, and I know this video is about 5 years old, but thank you so much. I've been restoring my brakes and grinding rust out of all the nooks and crannies of the caliper castings for days when I saw this. I now have a 25gal tank powered by a 30A 12V power supply with both calipers and brackets suspended from a buss I made that sits across the top and using my old trash rotors as sacrifice material in the bottom. Working like a champ, thank you again.
Kieth i have done the experiment in year. This is such a straight forward recap on the subject. So visual and thank you.
Thank you for a wonderful presentation on the use of Electrolysis for rust removal. Not only good information, well presented but also with self effacement and humility that is so rare but so endearing. thank you Asress
Completely agree. I loved this video.
I gotta say that was amazing. I will certainly try this Mr Rucker, great video as always.
Keith, first of all thank you for all your good hearted instruction, I enjoy watching and learning. This 58 year old dog can learn new tricks. I have improved this method by using a salvaged pool filter pump, the kids are grown so dad gets to use it.
Excellent video, Kieth. I especially enjoyed hearing about the background of the process and its other applications.
+Jordan Smith Thanks Jordan!
Thank you for this interesting video. There are a lot of things about electrolysis on the web, but, they are usually about small things and are not always complete! Great information thanks again for posting. Regards, Matthew
Yup, he helped me do a giant stew pot!
ruclips.net/video/QyS85AWnWL4/видео.html
Hey Keith, love all the videos. Always learning about something. Thank you for sharing this valuable information.
Wow that's a first time to see. Thanks for sharing that in depth tutorial on this process Mr. Rucker. I sure learned a lot. Brian
Great explanation. I've wanted to try electrolysis on some antiques, but I didn't understand the chemistry behind it. I'm glad you included it. Excellent presentation. Thanks!
I've used this process on antique car parts. It works really well to a point. It is helpful with bringing sheet metal back to the point it can be patched. Thanks For Sharing!
+badazrod I agree - it is good to a point. Not the only trick in my hat but it sure does have its place!
Very well explained, very informative. Thanks for all the instructional videos. Great explanation too.
Thanks Keith
This is a phenomenal video Keith, extremely detailed and descriptive. I'm grateful to have come away learning a lot about Electrolysis.
+Kyle Ackrill Thank you! I hope that you found it useful!
Thanks Keith. Excellent demo. I have used this to restore old hand planes, chisels, saws, etc. i use a 3 amp DC power supply. Cathodic protection is also used on underground fuel tanks with a sacrificial anode.
Thank you for such an academic approach to a practical application. It is important to why as well as how. Mike Montgomery
Thank you for a very succinct well spoken presentation. Very interesting extra information regarding preservation of battleships etc too. I hope to use what you've taught me on some parts i have. Greetings from the UK
Watched it again, still stuff to learn. That would be a selling point for older videos, the tools and processes don't change, but when watching again, there are other things you may have missed the first time...
Keith, thanks for taking time to explain the physics and chemistry in play here as well. I already knew how to do it but didn't know the 1/2 of the bonus material you shared.
Thanks Keith, brilliant explanation and demonstration.
It's one thing to show us what to do,,,, But your explanation of How it works,, and what's going on the whole time.,,, Is extraordinary!! (and the added safety tips!) Thank You!!!
You can also use soda blasting as a non-marring solution to remove oxides from sensitive materials. Automotive restoration shops use it as a way to remove oxide from thin body panels without damaging the metal. Great video BTW.
Good presentation. You got almost all the terminology correct. The main thing is that you explained clearly how to do it and got the desired results. Proud of you, Georgia Boy.
Pompous yankee
Really educational and I've enjoyed every minute of the video. Thanks
RUclips is special...I went from watching videos about the video game Subnautica to ending up here watching a 30 minute video on rust removal. Great video by the way.
I like your way of explaining things. This video is proof of that again. Thumbs up. Greetings from Germany from Peter. Keep it up Keith.
Keith, extremely interesting. Thank you for the video. I learned a lot
Very informative, yet another interesting upload, many thanks !
Brilliant presentation thank-you very much - will now become a common process in my workshop. Peter, New Zealand
I learned a lot watching your video. Thank you for sharing your talents. Best of luck to you and your business. Lee Noring.
All your videos are so relaxing and informative and a pleasure to watch. Especially in this pandemic situation. I wish you all the best! God bless you!
thanks again Keith, the kiddie pool idea is beautiful, as i am about to bring a number 3 milwaukee mill home ive been fumbling around to figure out a container large enough to do an electrolysis bath with it, and the kiddie pool will work out great for everything but the main body vertical ways.
thanks again for taking the time to preserve and pass along your knowledge.
DJ
Thanks for an excellent video Keith. I have used the electrolytic rust removal process countless times but on a smaller scale (5 gallon bucket). A useful tip to remember is that the electrons flow more easily in straight lines i.e., line of sight. It is better to have the piece being cleaned, surrounded by sacrificial electrodes, instead of just 1 on each side. I used to utilize window weights as my sacrificial electrodes. In the case of this large piece, you could have also suspended some pieces of rebar over the top of the saw table as sacrificial electrodes.
I know it's 2 years old... but... "electrons flow more easily in straight lines ie line of sight"
WTF? that's the most "curious" think I've heard for a while!
Next time there's a storm, watch the lightning!!! There must be an incredible amount of "back pressure" in household wiring because of the non-straight wiring. That electrons flow in a straight line in a crookes tube in no way demonstrates any significant resistance to electrons flowing through wire with curves in it.
Thanks Keith, very nice description of the whole thing
Hi Keith,
You're a wealth of knowledge! thanks for the video!
I really enjoyed your video thank you for taking the time to explain all of that I found it very informative.
Hi Keith, since your demonstration I have been cooking parts I bought from a shop. The price was right but most all of them where totally rusted due to a leaky roof where they were stored... Little did I know until using the electrolysis process that the almost unrecognizable small 4 jaw chuck I bought, turned out to be USA made for Southbend. One comment after cooking, I immediately use my pressure washer (1500psi) to blast off the residue. It does a great job and gets into the tight places where brushes may not reach I compressed air dry them and coat with WD-40. When I have time, I plan to take them completely apart and do whatever needed to bring them back in service.
Thank you for your hard work at the museum I hope to visit someday. Harvey from Nebraska
Nicely done Sir👍👍
Great stuff Keith - thanks for the lesson...will try this on an old jointer I've got. I was wondering how I'd restore and I think you've shown me the way.
Very detailed and it was explained very clearly and coherently. Well done.
Very nice demonstration Keith. I learned quite a bit, and would like to one day try it out for myself. The table top cleaned up great!
Thank you for showing is this demonstration.
I think ***** and oxtoolco should go halves in an apron for Abom79.
Nice job Keith!
I've used electrolysis on parts before but just in a 5 gallon pail, never thought about using something as big as a pool...until now! ;-)
Thanks!
Jeff
Very well spoken,Thank-You.
Abom79 You will have to compare this process to the stuff that you use. (name slips my mind right now)
Hey just dipped myself into Electrolysis. I know the process and all is working good. Its actually my second run. I am removing rust from my bike's tank. The question
How can i prevent gas tank from rusting again !!!
Thanks for this great video. I'm currently using this on my 1937 Studebaker President sedan rebuild. Just in the first few hours I couldn't believe the progress. Much easier than sandblasting and it doesn't damage the machined surfaces or warp the metal .
+tenaxxband Glad to hear it is working for you. It has its place for sure!
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org you didn't show where you connected the negative to the work material, I wondered if you needed to connect that in a certain way that kept the current coming into the piece and not just by passing into the anode? (or cathode, anode was negative right?) or does the current just proliferate through the electrolyte enough that a small amount of anode exposed before the connection doesn't cause issue?
Hi Keith, just wanted to say I enjoy your videos and think you are very good at figuring out how to get parts to work better than a lot of people I have seen. You do not do things just to get them functional, yoiu take the extra steps to do it right. I have the same mentality, if you do it make it last and look halfway decent. Glad I stumbled on your channel, and hope you continue to post videos for a long time to come. I have learned a lot and hope to learn more.
Thanks Dean!
Another super video Keith. I've done a motorcycle tank myself and have never seen it on this scale!!
A really nice video. You seem to be on top of the game on all of the restoration projects. The museum is lucky to have you helping them. Thanks for sharing.
Keith, An excellent job on your explanation. One thing that I think you missed is to warn the viewers not to use stainless steel sacrificial anodes, as this would turn your salt water solution into hexavalent chromium. This is a very hazardous material and you can not easily dispose of it safely.
No stay away from that shit.. you're right there. Erin Brockovich will be all over your case if you start with that stuff :-)
Does it matter if the piece that you are cleaning has some stainless steel on it ?
Oof! Thanks! Close call x)
I suppose a chrome-plated part might also do that?
LOL !! SALT SOLUTION ??
WTF !! TRY BORAX.
I USE SS ANODE AND CATHODE TO MAKE OXY-HYDROGEN, HHO, AKA... BROWNS GAS.
AS FAR AS I KNOW ... IT MAKES PURE WATER AS IT COMBUSTS.
I DUNNO WHICH ALLOY YOU USE... !!
Hi Keith, As an amateur machinist and practicing engineer, I have watched most of your videos and greatly enjoy them. Keep up the good work!
Regarding this video I felt I had to send you a comment. First, you will have faster results if you use copper wire (steel is not as good a conductor), which will lessen the amount of current being converted into heat. Also, spot or tack weld the end of the copper wire to your electrode to eliminate the contact resistance which also causes more heat. Secondly, regarding the USS Lexington, you might like to know that all ships with metal hulls have sacrificial anodes (called zincs) attached to the hull. As the ship moves through the earth's magnetic field a small current is induced and would eventually dissolve the screws (propellers) and/or rudder. Instead, the zincs erode and must be periodically replaced.
Finally, I love it when an engineer such as yourself, takes the theory from physics or chemistry and uses it in a practical way to produce the desired result. Thanks again!
***** Keith, you are absolutely correct. I was specifically targeting the conductance of the wiring. I suggest that you keep the wiring out of the solution as you have done for your anodes in the video. For the cathode, a short stub of rebar tacked onto an edge or the bottom of the machined plate that sticks up out of the solution provides a connection point for the copper wire without tainting the solution. In any event, an excellent video and great example of practical science.
Great video Keith! Thanks for posting.
Keith Rucker Thank you for mentioning the USS Lexington CVA16. That was my dad's ship. He was the radar operator. How awesome, I knew they were using electrolysis on it and was thinking of that while you were speaking.
I watched every minute here, You my friend are so very smart & such a wonderful teacher. Thanks ......Edit I subscribed
+Mike's DIY Projects & More Thanks for the note and thanks even more for the subscription! I hope that you enjoy my channel!
Looks good Keith and a very good explanation of he process too thanks.
Thanks to Vintage Machinery you helped me find info on a 1935 GE Workshop lathe I am restoring.
Nice video. Thanks for the presentation. I use electrolysis commonly to restore vintage rifles and parts.
You don't have to worry about hydrogen build up, simply because it recombines immediately with oxygen. Explosions happen only if hydrogen gets in contact with oxygen in the exact proportion of the H2O equation. This is not happening as the bubbles coming out of the anode and the cathode immediately get together again and don not build up. It's safe. Don't worry.
Fantastic video, great info and pleasantly presented. Kudos.
Thank You.
Gary Bates Thank yoU!
That was fascinating about using the ocean as the solutuion to clean up the WWII ship hull. Thanks for the tidbits on history when you include those.
Really enjoyed this. You have a very relaxing way about you while all the time giving out a good deal of information. I just started using this process a week ago on some woodworking tools purshased on Ebay - table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, shaper and drill press. All had little to no use but have a good deal of rust on the machined surfaces. Got my work cut out for me. Subscribed. Thank you!
Outstanding video and information!
Thank you!
Well done, Sir! Good video. I have some rusty machinery I have been procrastinating over... This inspired me to get going on it. Btw, it's not anoid and cathoid, it's anode and cathode. Thanks again! Cheers!
Very well presented and very informative could have listened to you all night. many thanks Keith
+william hall Thanks William!
That was neat to see the scale numbers showing up after cleaning ..Soon you will have the tilting table top in tip top shape !!!
Thank-you for taking the time to make a great vid and explanation ;
Nice video, very informative I do electrolysis the same way but I defiantly learned some great tips thanks!
Excellent video. You are such a good teacher.
Keith, great explanation of this process. Many people do not know of this process or realize its value in maintaining surface quality. I do have a suggestion that may help you with larger items like this. There is a tool called an electric burnisher, it is an angle grinder with a 4" roll on it. The rolls are available in the scotch-brite material and work very well for finishing this type of part. Metabo has one as well as other import companies.
Great video Keith, thanks for sharing. I'm looking to remove surface rust from car brake hubs/rotors and calipers and I didn't want to use acid based liquids as they would also start to degrade the finished surfaces. This looks like it will do a much better job. A lot slower than hydrochloric acid and such but much more controlled and safer. Also using acids has the potential to make these components more brittle and could cause failure into the future. Cheers Andy
Thanks for a very informative video. I wish I had seen this before restoring the table on my old Petrie 36" bandsaw. You may recall it from the OWWM website - you helped to identify it.
Dave Schinbeckler
Great Video Keith! Thanks for Sharing!
Concise detailed educated eloquent explanation.
Thank you sir.
This was really great to see. Never seen it before.
19th century cast iron maschinery and tools.....gotta love it...... i first caught the bug when i got to sit in an old steam engine (traction engine) hooked up with a big belt pulley to a rock stamper/crusher on the goldfeilds in hill end in outback n.s.w.....i have been in awe ever since......good work saving that planer.
That was extremely informative... thumbs up!
We did that same experiment. Work fast and get it neutralized and oiled. Zinc billets used to be attached to the ships hull to help protect them from rust. I am looking at a lathe that will need some electrolysis if I buy it. Great video.
Thanks for the great video 👍 From what I understand you are correct regarding electrolysis for generating oxygen on submarines.
Thanks, Keith! Mr. Pete222 did some videos on electrolysis a while back. It's an interesting process. It looks like you have that saw table looking like new in no time. Thanks again!
Regards,
Dave
I've seen other vids on this, but as usual yours is much clearer and more thorough explanation.
Your talk about the machined surface has made me think. What I would really like to see is you hand scraping a surface to truth.
Most interesting on how to tackle large components, thanks.
Excellent,thank You very much,just what I was looking for.
maxim edwards Thanks!
I’ve also used distilled water which is quite cheap... great lesson! This is something we all can use!
I have some parts cooking as I watched this - highly recommended! Good demo!
Very informative video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
good job I appreciate all the information and I find all you do very helpful
Thank you!
Thanks for the video Keith. That's some hunk of metal. Like what you do restoring old machinery. Our world has become so disposable.
Thanks Dana!
Thank you for making this video!
Awesome video. Lots of helpful info for a newbie. Thanks
Just an afterthought but an important one. Since watching engineering videos on RUclips I've seen quite a few descriptions of the process you described. Some good, some bad. What I liked about yours was the fulness of it. The description of the chemical process. Most times knowing the HOW is sufficient but when things go wrong, only knowing the WHY will get you through.
Very nice demonstration Keith.
That was a very enjoyable viewing experience. Thanks.
Great use of a kid pool. Been looking at ways to clean drill pipe before welding. Thanks for the idea.
This is so awesome. Thank you Keith. This has got to be the best explanation of Electrolysis on the net.
You Tube at it's best :)
+doyleaudio Thank you!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org porque tardas tanto es aburrido,
@@DANIELELECTRICOAUTOMOTRIZ ...well, "ya can't please EVERYBODY!!!!"
Great video! Another big disadvantage of using regular table salt is that some of the chlorine will remain dissolved in the water and will react with the item you are trying to clean.
Great video. Many thanks for posting
This instructional Video could not come at a better time. I recently got back some scaffold I loaned out to a family member that left them outside for two years. These pieces could easily be replaced but why spend money on something so simple to clean? Thank You Mr. Rucker. God Bless you and Your family, Have a Merry Christmas.
Thank You! As a kid, we used dry cleaning bags (super thin plastic) to capture the gas. We had fun with chemistry!
Reminds me to check the TIG tank. It is 30 year old Stainless Steel Tank (300 series, not magnetic)... Need to look at the MSDS for the Miller Coolant...
It's "cathode" and "anode," my friend - not cathoid and anoid. :)
I'm really enjoying your videos, however. You are a very talented, skilled, and knowledgeable craftsman. Thank you for taking the time to bring these informative programs to us. I am disabled, so you provide me an enjoyable way to work vicariously, through you and your shop adventures.
You seem to have a problem with his dialect, my dear.
George Gordon brown I live in nc and I say cathode and anode but I do say silenoid instead of solenoid .
@@joshprice6954 I had to search what solenoid means. But i do appreciate the value of cultural diversity - local dialects that is. The communists in my country have made dialects go extinct. Thanx for your response.Stay safe.
Cultural Diversity and "Dialect are stupid jokes and have nothing to do with pronouncing words properly.
You are right it is anode and cathode. Also check the galvanic table. You need to use an anode lower on the galvanic table that the cathode.
It's true that this subject has been done to death, but you had some information to add even so. Great video!
I have used this process for years restoring antique engines and have experimented with different sacrificial anode materials from rebar to lawn mower blades. The best i have found to date is graphite. I got free scraps from a machine shop that makes electrodes for EDM machines. The graphite really conducts well and doesn't need to be cleaned during the process. It eventually erodes but it lasts a long time. I cut larger chunks into the right size with a simple handsaw.