Rust Removal Vinegar
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- In this video, I remove rust on tools with a mild acid--VINEGAR.
Search youtube for my other rust removal videos-- "electrolysis vinegar tubalcain". THANKS FOR WATCHING!
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#rustremoval#electrolysis#evaporust#molassesrust removal
Here's an interesting fact for you. The old way of dying leather black is to submerge steel wool or iron pieces in vinegar for a couple of days. When vegetable tanned leather is dipped into the solution it instantly turns deep black. It's called vinagroon dye.
Congratulations on over 300 shop tip videos Mr. Peterson. And thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to make these videos. If you ever get discouraged by a few haters and trolls that only watch for, in their opinion, mistakes, then please remember there are thousands upon thousands of people that love your videos and it really makes their day when a new one is available! Your awesome and best wishes on the next 300! We love ya!
”I just wasted 15 minutes of my life, and I don’t have that much left”
That is the best comment I have ever heard :)
Great channel!
👍
Mr. Pete, I also used white vinegar to remove heavy rust from a surface gauge that I made in trade school in 1955. It was my first major project and had sat under my house for over fifty years. A plastic pan worked well to hold the parts and vinegar. Three days later with a little clean up work I had a perfectly restored surface gauge that's a pride and joy to look at. Thanks again for your very helpful instructional videos. Keep up the good work.
There is a saying, " Knowledge not shared is wasted energy".
You are a wealth of knowledge Mr. Pete and I enjoy your videos and the dry humor.
Keep them coming and thank you sir!
Thank you very much
There is something almost hypnotic about his voice. That on top of the education and the entertainment, what more could you ask for? Thumb up!
Thank you VERY much
+mrpete222 Thank you for the cool video!
I lived on my steel yacht for over 20 years during which time I became an expert at rust conversion. In the course of this video I learned how futile converting rust is...much better to float it off in cheap white vinegar. I was aware of the vinegar option, but I was stuck in a rut for all that time. Thanks Mr Pete and good luck to you.
Lyle, fyi the gauge at the end of the video is for measuring the wheel flange on rolling stock. I used to be a car knocker i.e. carman on the Missouri Pacific R.R. aka MoPac and we used a gauge similar to the one shown in the car shop to determine if the wheels needed to be replaced as we performed maintenance and repaired cars. There was a similar yet different gauge for measuring the wear on the knuckle i.e. the part of the coupler that pivots to couple or uncouple the rolling stock.
To space the parts from the bottom I've used kid's marbles before. They expose more surface than blocks and are made of glass so they won't float like wood blocks would. You can easily find them at most dollar stores.
Karl Kretschmar Excellent idea! The actual contact patch (where vinegar wouldn’t reach) would be near zero. To take your brilliant idea one step further, (and depending on the complexity of the part being cleaned) I’m thinking I’ll temporarily hot melt glue the marbles to the bottom of the pan so I’m not chasing them around or having to constantly reposing then as I turn/flip/inspect my part. Additionally, I don’t have to worry about losing them down my shop drain during the flush and thus creating even more work for myself acting the role of a plumber. Thanks For the marble idea Karl!
Great idea, I have been using plastic jar lids open side up, but I have marbles from old paint cans sitting in a jar around somewhere, finally put them to work, {not really good for carousel bearings, since they tend to be seconds and not really spherical.
Machine shop tip of the day: "Pecans, not walnuts". Love it. A quote that will become a Mr. Pete classic.
Vinegar process works great and no battery charger, sacrificial plates, baking soda or hydrogeon gas! I am gonna give it a go. Thanks for testing it out for us! Fred
+Fred Miller Might want to give phosphoric acid a try first.
+AustrianAnarchy Except that vinegar is dirt cheap and quite a bit safer. Most likely why phosphoric acid is more effective.
Phos ac is in cola drinks, it's not inherently unsafe.
+Noel Henderson loads better mate
Always found citric acid to work best myself. ymmv.
Really Nice video...this guy deserves his own television show.
Thank you
Zachary Hayes Sr yes he does I just wish I had The knowledge he has. I would be unstoppable then.
I could not agree more. Never happen these days, there's no drama!
TV is flawed. Ancient soap selling technology. While many old technologies are awesome, TV is not in that list. This is the perfect place for tubalcain.
***** anything older is awesome they don't make things to last anymore it's a money world
After the soak in vinegar, and then rinsing with water, there's probably no real need to neutralize with baking soda, but if it were me, I would still using baking soda, but instead of putting it in water, I'd apply it as a thin paste right on the metal, and take the Scotch-Brite to it. The baking soda will act as a mild abrasive, improving (in my opinion) the finish of the piece. I'm amazed at how well simple vinegar worked for this.
Dear Sir.
Thanks for a great video. I enjoy listening to you explain what it is you are doing and why. There's an old saying "There ain't no free lunch." That certainly holds true with rust removal. Electrolysis, acid, abrasives, or any other method requires some type of hands on to finish the job to an acceptable standard. For me the advantage to using some of the more hands off methods like electrolysis, and acid is the complexity of the part and the number or volume of the parts to be derusted. About 5 years ago I came into the possession of a large quantity of wood auger bits. I had become enamored with the idea of owning a full set of 13 bits in one of the Russel Jennings boxes and that lead to a bit of obsessive hunting. Needless to say I ended up with a bunch of rusty auger bits. After trying various ways I settled on using Evaporust on the advise of various forum members that I had grown to trust. It worked but 100 auger bits completely exhausted the gallon of Evaporust. That worked out to about $.25 each. I still had to scrub them after soaking them for a couple days in the beginning and by the last batch it was more like 4 days. Then I made the unfortunate discovery that there was a pervasive odor that filled the basement shop and the adjoining rooms. That was not well received by myself or the other people occupying the space who were understandably dissatisfied with my attempt to avoid manual labor.
Chemical baths are an effective rust removal method for complex shapes because the chemical penetrates into areas that are difficult if not impossible to reach by mechanical methods. The process is not fool proof or necessarily a cost or labor savings. Residual effects requiring major cleanup have to be factored into the costs associated with any rust removal method. I'll briefly touch on the molasses method as a subset to chemical means. It works. Just like the Evaporust, vinegar, or any of a host of acid based removal processes it penetrates and removes the rust. The problem is that compared to molasses the Evaporust was perfume. I knew from the advise of others, always ask advise, it's cheap and plentiful, that there was an odor attached. What I didn't realize is that it can only be described in terms of opening a septic tank and diving in head first. The stench is horrific and pervasive. It took two weeks to remove the rust from the saw blade that I had used for the test. After the first two days it took an effort of will to open the container and check on the process. The only household member who liked the idea of molasses rust removal was the family dog. After the experiment I took the effluent remaining and carried it far out into the woods away from human contact. Sadie discovered the dumping area and ended up getting several baths before enough rain had fallen to wash away the stench from the woods. In an effort to avoid the olfactory insults presented by Evaporust and Molasses while simultaneously lowering my cost per unit I hit on the vinegar method. My first attempt was similar to yours. It worked and the remaining solution was equally crusty and nasty. The next day the white vinegar had turned. It stunk to high heaven. I next tried apple cider vinegar. Finally I was moderately successful. The rust was removed, the bath still smelled like apple cider vinegar a week, and multiple batches of auger bits, later. The bits still required some elbow grease but that's a given. Electrolysis is also effective but less so than chemical methods. Electrolysis is a line of sight process. If the parts to be cleaned are not carefully presented in the bath any shadowing of the surface leaves areas that are not as well cleaned. I suppose creating a rotating rack or developing a complex cathode that will expose all surfaces equally is possible but like you I'm trying to reduce the sweat equity in the process. Mechanical methods are my choice for flat surfaces or regular shapes that allow easy access. Since every method mentioned previously, in this overly long response, ends with some form of abrasive use, with all the mess entailed with each method and the final elbow grease as a pervasive requirement I ended up with a hierarchy of rust removal. 1. Is the object badly rusted?
a. Yes. Proceed to step 2.
b. No Mechanical means are indicated
2. Is the part complex? Multiple parts joined so as to be difficult to disassemble or having a convoluted shape.
a. Yes Proceed to step 3.
b. No Mechanical methods are indicated.
3. Are there a large number of discrete parts.
a. Yes Proceed to step 4.
b. No Chemical process is indicated.
4. Is there a finish that you would like to have remain after the rusted areas are cleaned?
a. Yes Proceed to step 5
b. No Chemical process is indicated. *
5. Use electrolysis. To achieve a clean surface, on a complex part, with little or no damage caused to existing finish, or coatings, by the process, electrolysis is my first choice. It will require secondary disassembly of complex components, final mechanical finishing, and cleaning of the parts and system used.
I use baking soda to create the electrolyte so I can dispose of the effluent without fear of damaging the environment. It nicely greens up the grass in the area where the iron and baking soda mixture is poured.
Sadie has no interest in rolling in baking soda water. *If you don't own a dog. If you are derusting a large object like a 46 Ford truck body. If you have a strong stomach. Then by all means use the molasses method. A large sturdy framework with a plastic liner that will contain the object and sufficient molasses and water bath to submerge the item can be lined with 3 mil plastic sheet. Set the object in the tank. Add the solution. I recommend covering the tank to keep out the birds and bugs. Especially the bugs. Ugh.... Walk away and come back in two weeks.
After removing the item from the bath, hose it off with running water and examine it for effect. If the part is acceptable, apply a rust preventative. If not then put the part back in the tank and check back in a week. After a successful application of molasses water, then drain the tank, strip off your clothes, shower with lye soap, don clean apparel, set fire to the soiled clothes, and do not return to the area for a period of 3 to 4 weeks or 3 thunderstorms. Good luck with your endeavors in fighting off the effects of that horrible naturally occurring pollutant Oxygen. If I could figure out a way to exist without it I'd never have to remove rust again. :-)
Old Sneelock's Workshop no one is going to read that whole thing well not me at least. You trying to write a book
It's okay Parker. You don't need to read anything. I know big words can be a challenge and I thought I had kept them to a minimum. I didn't really write it for you. You can wait for the comic book.
That's the problem with young people these days.... they don't want to read anything lol.
Or do anything......
You gave the best summary of all!. I have seen several of the youtube things, you have the best!
I like electrolysis along with molasses and water. Electrolysis leaves a rust protective coating of sorts, the acid leaves a surface that rusts as soon as it hits air, ever so slightly. Molasses and water is a chelating agent, works dandy.
One good thing about vinegar is that it gets the rust that resides deep in the pores: some tools seem to have some sort of “rust sickness “ that a vinegar treatment will cure. I can’t believe that I lived over sixty years before discovering this,
This worked like magic! I had a #4 Millers Falls 6" pocket scale found at a yard sale that was in a leather sheath and badly rusted, Six hours in the vinegar, two minutes with a brass brush and some 600 wet/dry paper and it looks great and is 100% readable. Thanks Mr. Pete
Sir. You are a treasure of information. I wish I had a neighbor like you to hang out with. Don't stop doing the videos. You do a magnificent job. Reminds me of my high schools shop teachers, teaching us how to make knives from raw steel. Thank you very much. Sincerely a very satisfied viewer.
Thank you very much
@@mrpete222
Project Farm. Plenty of things need less of the brown makeup!
Hi there Mr Pete- thank you for the demonstration!!----- the RUSTY vinegar water another option to not pour it in the sink is to see which plants in the garden LIKE ACIDITY - pine trees, Hydranga (sp) it will turn the blooms dark purple/ blue.
Well done. I am rebuilding a 1967 Land Rover engine, and used vinegar to clean up all the nuts and bolts. I should mention that De-greasing to remove all the oil residue, greatly speeds up the rust removal process. Then I found the parts would "flash rust" in immediately if not oiled soon after neutralizing the acid from the parts. I appropriated a couple of old bread pans for my chemistry experiments.
Tried this with a bunch of rusty Morse Taper 2 imperial drills, reamers, taps that I got inexpensively at a car boot (trunk) sale as most folk in the UK want metric & new. It worked superbly well, more convenient than electrolysis as I didn't have to make an electrical contact, and created like new pieces from the rusty things I bought. Thank you!
Thanks Mr.Pete for the comparison of the two methods of rust removal, I bought 1/4 plate from a scrap yard for a project. I wanted to remove the mill scale, the steel had a lot rust so I hit with a flap disk first and soaked some test pieces in vinegar and some in muriatic acid.
The muriatic acid cleaned the parts in about 30 minutes, the vinegar two days. The safety fact does need to be considered with the Muriatic acid, I used eye protection chemical rated gloves and tongs, I made bath of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Washed under hot water and oiled with light machine oil. After that i buffed them, nice and shinny too. I then applied Johnson’s paste wax.
I bough washing soda a while back to do the electrolysis test dug out my battery charger, and determined that the battery charger would not operate unless 9 volts were present on the charging post. Yes it was one of those new computer controlled chargers for lead acid as well as nicad and gel cell battery’s, I fooled it with a 9 volt battery. For ordinary rust removal I am sticking with the vinegar, for the mill scale the muriatic acid works for me.
Thanks for all you do! I wish I could have been able to attend your open house this past July.
Dear Lyle, I have been using Cleaning Vinegar soaking old taps for 24 hours. Cleaning vinegar is 6% acetic acid, ordinary food grade vinegar is 5% acetic acid. I guess the higher concentration accelerates the process, as would some heat. That is basic chemistry. I cleaned up my work by using a kitchen bristle brush with brass bristles. The effect was amazing: my taps now have a slight brass patina to them. I recall using a solid brass wire brush on hot metal in blacksmithing and this gives the metal a fine brassy coat. My inadvertent discovery may mean that my restored parts will now have a very fine brass coating and no longer rust. The small amount of metal deposition may alter the size of the teeth but it would only be a few microns. I can now clearly read the stamped markings on the taps whereas the rusty version could not be identified.
Thanks for watching
I’m in the UK and you are brilliant. You sound like my father-in-law. Very classy and amusing do keep me amused. Keep on it as long as you can then employ a dude to carry on when you can’t. Well done. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Definitely my favorite rust removal method. Works better than the commercially available rust remover products. I had a old leg Vise and some pieces of small Guage Railroad track both were over 100 years old and very rusty. When they were done they looked brand new. I had to use a plastic tote and about 4 gallons of vinegar and it still was not enough. Luckily I had a small old fountain pump that I used to recirculate the vinegar to the top of the Vise. I had covered it with rags so they would hold the vinegar and keep it wet. Worked great.
As always Mr Pete. You are a wealth of wisdom
😀😀
I was skeptical, too, but you have made quite a case for vinegar. Once again, a great video. Thank you, sir!
Watched and then tried it, could not believe how effective white vinegar is. I have just been given a load of engineering bits which has been under a bench fro five years, and all are covered with surface rust. Results brilliant thanks for the information.
You always have interesting videos. I enjoy watching.I can tell you were a teacher(you still have the passion). Thanks------Keep up the good work.
Great Video. I lost a number of tools to rust during a bad storm including 3 different sized Mics. I tried electrolysis to great success. The Mics I was able to strip right down after the electrolysis, I then placed the threaded parts in vinegar for about 3 hours results were great threads good as new. Reset the Mics to my true Gauge set . All was well. I could have claimed on the insurance but did not. The Mics were given to me by my Dad so were many years old. I love your forgiving wife Chris Gray UK
That's terrible about the damage to the tools
Very impressed with the vinegar trick. My father in law has some very rusty tools thats been sitting in the weather for some time. Going to try this out. Thanks again!
Yes
Like it. Any comparison with electrolysis should measure the amount of good, base material removed by each process.
I would vote for this guy for President. He is old school awesome!
Thank you, but I declined the nomination.
Just saw this video very traditional and really informal I will be watching this channel more often
Thanks for watching-welcome aboard
Good video, informative. I've repaired a number of engine blocks, bell housings, transmission cases ect in my career and I've always been amazed at how porous some cast metals are and some non cast. I've had to "cook" some castings to get the oils out so a good welded repair could be done. aluminum seems to be the worst at this and older Cummins engine blocks as well. I've spent hours with a low flame torch(s) to keep the metal over 250℉ so the oils will bleed out. The oil can interfere with good penetration and adhesion, watching you use the 3in1 oil reminded me that it's a thin oil and you may need more than oil application. Always great watching the videos, keep em coming, thanks.
Excellent work Mr Pete, I watch all most all of your videos. Feels like your my friend I've heard your voice so much. Can't thank you enough for you time and effort, you got me excited about shop work again.
LOVE YOUR CHANNEL. HAS ANYONE TOLD YOU. YOU SOUND LIKE JAMES STEWART..
Bryan 0 that is absolutely so. James Stewart indeed.
I think he sounds like Jimmy stewart too.
BRYAN. COLLINS RASON yep, my fist thought was jimmy stewart, but then I heard a few others in there as well, all mixed together
The vinegar method is really good for things where you can't reach with emory cloth. I've gotten EXCELLENT results with the insides of motorcycle tanks.
Thanks Lyle for the video, I had no clue that vinegar would work so well.
I have used electrolysis quite a lot and have never tried vinegar, after this video, I have gotto try it !
Simple and cheap method, yet awesome result! Thank you for that!
I liked seeing the vinegar effect. Thank you!
Vinegar who knew? I have heard of its properties in regards to removing rust! Now I've seen it for myself Thanks Mr. Pete.. Love your videos... 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Vinegar works pretty good. I soaked my old sockets and wrenches in it for 24 hours, and they are just like new, well almost new. I'm a believer in vinegar.
God give you health and continue showing learning videos to spread knowledge to this generation.
Love learning.
Thanks
I never believed in the vinegar method, always bought "forsfor acid", dunno the english word, sorry.
Now i will use this method for parts i dont want to sandblast! Thanks for the vid!
+creamtube Phosphoric acid
Ah ye, thanks!
My maternal grandfather worked for DuPont as a chemist and he had another use for Vinegar that I refused to believe until one day I had bad heartburn. I took his advice and drank straight vinegar and it worked. The first shot was like 101 wild turkey but the ones that followed got easier and easier. Both White vinegar and Cider vinegar seem to work the same. 3 full shot glass doses spread out over a minute or two usually does the trick.
I like using a jar of vinegar for soaking rusty nuts, bolts, and washers as I disassemble something. It has the added advantage of making the work area smell like an old-time Italian sandwich shop. I've found vinegar works like Evaporust, just slower and a lot cheaper.
My wife cleans burned on food by soaking it in vinegar and putting crumpled aluminum foil on top. Apparently the foil together with the vinegar and the base metal forms an electrolytic cell but no power supply needed.
Watched your rust removal video couple weeks ago, today pulled 2 jars of vinegar soaked tools[files reamers and odds and ends] the files are like new everything else is very good . Thanks for the lesson!!
I've used vinegar for several years and found it to be a good option for rust removal. I also use house-brand (cheap) diet cola drinks from Kroger and Publix. Different type of acid, but it works about the same as vinegar.
Keep up the good work.
Haven't even watched the whole video yet, but I clicked "like" early because of the brownies/pecans comment. Not because I necessarily agreed, but because it just made me smile, and I needed that right about now. Thank you, sir. For the smile, and for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. :-)
Hello brother, I love your video and how you showed us hands-on how vinegar worked so well. I had my doughts that vinegar worked or not and you proved that it works well.Thank you, I will be using this on a Harley Davidson gas tank I restored the bike and the gas tank was rusted but could be saved God bless you and your family Amen.
Thanks for watching, yes the vinegar works well
Hello Lyle, the chisel you showed at the end was a plumbers chisel for caulking lead into a cast iron hub. Edgar
Lead solder! Good one, Mr. Pete222! Gotta use up all that acid core solder you've accumulated over the years somehow before it goes bad! But just remember to check which pan she's cooking in every evening so you know when to pretend to lose your appetite.
Been using vinegar to clean up old woodworking tools for a long time. Works good and I haven't had any problems with it eroding the base metal, iron or steel.
the benefits of vinager for me is it not only removes the rust but also a thick millscale for welding.
I often use vinegar to remove rust from iron and steel parts, with success. If the rust looks a bit thick, I add some lemon juice as well. Clean the residue off with some steel wool.
I use glass marbles to keep things off the bottom of the pan. About 2 or 3 hours usually works for me. You probably have a video about such, but this surface didn't IMO need lubrication afterwards, so for such I use plain old WD-40 to keep moisture away from the dried off steel. It works well for things not needing actual lubrication. My complaint about electrolysis is I need a powered wire wheel to get the black off many types of steel, but I suspect I could probably get the same effect by skipping the electrolysis and just using the wheel. Sad vinegar doesn't remove pitting too..
I know I’m late to the party on this one (6 years too late) but you had me laughing out loud at your little quips during this video. I wish I had known you in the old days. I’m sure we would have become fast friends. Keep up the sense of humor.
I’d turn it upside down on a tapered cone and run it in the vinegar again for another day.
👍👍😄😄
It would be great if you took two similar items, rusted as closely as possible the same way, used one in the electrolysis vat and the other in vinegar. But, I have to say, I am surprised the vinegar worked as beautifully as it did. Thank you for your time and work.
Vinegar and and other acids attack the metal itself that is why it leaves a harsh surface!! I prefer electrolysis it only attacks the rust:-)) Thanks for posting it was an interesting experiment!
There was a guy on eBay that sells 20, 30, 40 pound boxes of scrap Delrin. Delrin is a tough machinable dense high end plastic. Epoxy & other glue usually won't stick to it either. I use loads of it for clamping cauls, fixtures, jigs, etc. You can do as many rust removal videos as you like. Love every one of them, and I wish you were a neighbor of mine. Go buy your wife a new pan, Mr. Pete. I was trying vinegar to remove an orange stain from a cultured marble sink. Hydrogen peroxide did a pretty good job. I might try some oxalic acid, used to bleach wood, to get the last of the stain out, but I think we will just keep a doing the peroxide treatments. It takes forever, but it worked the best of anything.
I've been using white vinegar for a while now, if you have the time and patience its the best method to remove rust. Ive subscribed, all the way from the UK.
we are standing by for Mrs Pete's kitchen tips #1 Improvised Kitchen Cabinet Locks
I used vinegar on Grandfathers Harry Dustin handsaw and was very impressed . It is probably a pre WWII saw. It was quite rusty. It came out very nicely. The best part is that you can see where he carved his initials in the handle.
That's awesome
The vinegar vs electrolysis debate I believe boils down to your desired end result. I think vinegar is superior for stripping down to bare metal for something you want to refurbish to “like new” operation with the intent to use it. But electrolysis is better for vintage antiques where you want to preserve the patina for the aesthetic. Great video and thank you for taking the time to make it.
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I think you did a great job and and looks a lot less complicated than the electrolysis. Thanks so much and I look forward to seeing more.
I used this method extensively while restoring my 1942 Southbend heavy 10. It works great! although the vinegar will eat the metal if you leave it in too long. I lost a few small parts that way.
Super, tubalcain.
Just the honey to go with that vinegar. (smile)
This summer I vinegar(ed) some bolts that I really needed (badly badly rusted) and I was also very pleased with the results. If it helps... I cut part of the tops ou of plastic 1 gallon milk jugs, leaving the handles on and they worked satisfactorily as little vinegar de-rustification-containers. Highly recommend this.
My wife was pleased that I took the recycling out, AND my meatloaf did not taste of vinegar.
Thanks for watching
Wear latex gloves, that black stuff will stain your fingers. Also, a power washer works very well to remove the residue. After a vinegar soak, I used the power washer on some old files I bought at an estate sale as I couldn't think of anything else that would get down into the tiny grooves very well. I neutralize it after power washing. Hot soapy water seems to do just fine in neutralizing the vinegar. Then oil it or the item will flash rust. Cleaning vinegar, found in the cleaning section of the store, vs the cooking section , is sometimes a little stronger. Also, agriculture vinegar, used to kill weeds, is stronger than the "regular" stuff.
Mr Pete, thank you for another great video! I've recently discovered vinegar is the answer to everything, but hadn't even heard about the rust factor! Supposedly, drinking a little apple cider vinegar each day is very healthy and removes body rust also! This method you've shown should be perfect for a bunch of old rusty tools I've purchased at garage sales recently. Thank you!
surprising result didn't expect that to work in such a short time frame. beautiful video mrpete
looks great . have used vinegar for this purpose for years.
Thank you sir all the way from SOUTH AFRICA Prieska.
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Hi good video,
i have also experience with de rusting of materials with vinegar.i used it mostly for small components. Good choice for the container is glass or plastic, because it resist acids. there are two methods for speeding up the process. 1st moving the container a little that you got all time some fresh vinegar at the part. 2nd (be careful !) to heat up the vinegar. but be aware of the second method, because you have to avoid the fumes. on the other side the vinegar becomes much more reactive. use pre-caution on the second method.
one big advantage of vinegar is that you can dump it with water into a normal drain without harming the enviroment. specially if we talk about low quantities like a gallon or so.
i think i will follow your channel a little more closer.
Very satisfying to watch that rust come off!
Very nice, that looks easier than electrolysis and cheaper than a chelator!!
Rust is always something we have to deal with ,good video,now you can use the rest of the vinegar for weed control.
Wow, that came out really well! I’ve noticed that commercial spray- or brush-on rust removers tend to use phosphoric acid. It’s the same principle, but maybe phosphoric acid is a bit stronger. (Commenting for the algorithm 😊)
Thanks
Don"t forget to use some baking soda and water mix after using vinegar to neutralize the acid process. The rinse you did on such a thick piece of metal probably will be enough along the oiling you did but on thinner metal you need to make sure and neutralize the acid effect as soon as possible after the rinse. Great post and good closeups
Little pieces of wood and plastic won't float with a big chunk of cast iron laying on them. :) Great video Mr. Pete.
think i'll go with the vinegar method, like the results and that it can be done indoors, no power involved or gases from electrolysis and can be washed down the utility sink. thanks for the video mrpete222
I've been doing all my rusty screws, nuts and sockets with a good 24H vinegar dip for a little while now. I found that apple cider vinegar works a whole lot better than regular white vinegar, but for $$$ sake, I'm currently experimenting with a mix of white and regular cider vinegar and re-using the stuff after pouring it through a coffee filter. No need to be paranoid with baking soda; just brush it thoroughly , rinse it off with plenty of water, dry and oil immediately and no problems whatsoever.
Loved the way that you used basic know how to restore and reuse. Nice work.
Thanks
I didn’t know vinegar could be used to remove rust. Learn something new everyday. I would have thought phosphoric acid would be the way to go.
Wow! I'm really impressed with those results. I have not tried vinegar before, but I certainly will now.
I have tried both molasses and electrolysis.
The molasses works fine and leaves a perfectly clean shiny part, but took something like two weeks to get the results you got in two days.
what I liked about electrolysis is that a got a rust free part with dark oxide finish. for some of my projects this was preferable since I still wanted the item to look old.
EvapoRust costs $15 per gallon. I'm going to be giving vinegar a try! I might even do a side-by-side video on the two. Thanks for posting this one Mr. Pete.
I enjoyed your video as always. I believe those chisels are for packing oakum in cast iron sewer pipes prior to pouring lead in to seal the joints. I have a bunch of the chisels that are brand new made by Plomb, Proto and P&C. All related companies. Pretty much antiques nowadays as plumbers don't use that DEADLY solder anymore because it's quicker to just glue plastic pipes together.
Thanks for calling them out on the bad language! ( I suspect you have a deep appreciation for all things you find square, plumb and level brother.) I’ve been using evapo-rust, but have about decided that vinegar is a better option.
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Great video! I had my doubts about vinegar cleaning cast iron. Thank you Tubal for the great demonstration.
Thank You Tubal-Cain, I just received 2 RR tie plates that are ~as seen~ normally: Very Rusty ! ! ! I will NOT be researching the Electro Rust Removal, as the Vinegar worked so well! Thank You as well, for your Stance against FOUL Language, I seldom read further when I see it. (PS, my Bible Studies group just did Chapter 4 in Genesis) ! ! !
Thanks for watching & approving
I live in a humid area and get a lot of rust on all my equipment. I had been using a product called Rust Free. It works good but is expensive. I found a way to clean large cast iron surfaces without having to dip it in a tub of vinegar. Just double up some paper towels on top of the surface and pour the vinegar on. Let it set for a few hours and scrub it with scotchbrite.
I never thought of White Vinegar to clean metal like that... but i have a couple of parts that now I simply MUST try it on.
THANKS!!
Mr P ... I like the new intro ... losing the "dead air" at the beginning is a good move in my book.
Vinegar certainly seems a better option ... Baking soda makes quite a decent fine scouring powder too instead of mixing ... scatter on the worst areas and rub to help restore the finish, Rinsing then neutralises.
Evaporust (I think it's made in the USA) is a good commercial alternative ... quite difficult to source and certainly not as cheap as vinegar here in the UK - but worth the, effort and outlay it works like a dream on mixed material parts without damaging them.
Apple cider vinegar is said to be the most effective of the vinegar treatments. I use good old malt vinegar. Works great.
Good all round demo but as mughat says degreasing the part prior to the vinegar stage is important to achieve maximum surface area.
I hope you are joking about the lead brownies....
good video, thanks for sharing. Remember that instead of vinegar you could also use citric acid. This is available in crystal form (often used for jam and syrup making) Theoretically it should work even better than vinegar but I have not yet tried it. Leave the parts in acid only as long as necessary since they continue to remove also bare metal.
Concerning molasses google for "molasses rust removal" check out Dave Ailey's videos where he de-rusts big car body parts.
Yeah, it has given me a couple of ideas too, I will be trying the vinegar solution.., I might just make a permanent vinegar bath..!