I am humbled! This is a wonderfully made video! Enjoy using the Hulk frame brace and my other mods. Feel free to ask any questions concerning the Anet A8 that you might have.
Best upgrade on my A8 was mounting it firmly to a base of MDF board. I used 1in. black metal L's screwed to board to lock the frame in place on the Y & X and zip tied it down on the Y rods. You don't really even notice them. I've since gotten a larger printer but I learned so much on that A8. I'd still say that's the best 1st 3d printer. You learn what work's what doesn't. I like your channel because you don't go crazy on the upgrades and stick with useful stuff. But an A8 is an A8 and only makes sense to not spend a fortune on it. With my large printer you get the same issues and it has a metal frame. I'd love to see a series on building a large HyperCube. To me that's the platform for large printers that makes the most sense to try and get the speed up on. Thank's for the video's. I always enjoy them.
Thanks for the comments. I also agree that the Anet is a good first printer. Of course the Ender 3 is easier to start but with the A8 you learn much more about how these printers work and its more tinker friendly. Keep on printing cool stuff!
yes indeed clamping the frame to a base keep that machine really steady on mine the y axis have a tendencies to lift up especially at high printing speed now with my plywood base all is solid!
Sounds really like a good idea. however I need to move my printers around a lot, so probably not a good option for me but will think about it definitely.
@@Crosslink3D You know being mounted makes moving it a lot easier too. Just carry it from the base. Now when I move it I don't even have to relevel the bed. I wasn't kidding when I said it was about the best upgrade I did on mine.
I found my A8 had Y ripples as well. This seems to be caused by the front of the frame cantilevering and not quite touching the table below it. When the carriage would move out this would cause the front frame to drop ever slightly and create ripples. This was more apparent on the back of parts than the front. I put together a lack enclosure and then secured the y axis frame rods to the table with some brackets and screws. It significantly increased my quality on my y-axis. You should check if you are having a similar problems. Thanks for the videos I have used them as a guide fro many of my own upgrades and general education on these printers.
I printed my first large print last weekend (21cm tall stormtrooper astronaut from thingiverse) and it was all perfect until the few cm's when the layers were not sticking together and was "spongy" did not have a clue as to why this happened until seeing this video. I am sure it is to do with the wobble!! Another great video Daniel. Keep it up!!
Thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
Great video, I have the silly triangle frame braces and noticed they did nothing the day I put them on. I'll have to give the Hulk a try. I've always thought that because the bed is suspended on springs this would introduce inaccuracy in the Y axis. We need a better way to attach the bed but still be able to adjust (for those of us who do it manually)
it wont change anything dont waste your time. want a better frame. buy the metal frame upgrade. adding some cheap plastic parts isnt gonna help these frames. ive never had any of the problems others have that settings couldnt fix. i have a ctc prusa. that thing is cheap. and it prints great no issues. z rods wobble like they SHOULD. i tried to make them tight and all they did was ruin prints cause threaded rods are not perfect they wobble no matter what. if you secure top bottom then middle wobbles. i think i just unsub from this guy. cause none of his videos have helped with anything. the whole marlin boot load what a fail.
@@Crosslink3D im thankful for ya help in helping others. im sure its helped lots of others. i seem to never have the issues others have if i do seems its something silly that causes it instead of the normal lol.
@@StevesDIYProjects7 Everyones solution to problems with a printer is to throw money at it. That is not always (or often ever) the case. 99% of your problems can be solved in the settings. Once you make your a8 fireproof (although it looks like the new models save you from having to solder the bed) most everything else is just monkey see monkey do.
Yes, I tried them and they are totally worth it. But you should not buy the cheap ones with 4 diodes, they did not work for me (motors reversed and crashed into frame). Get the ones with 8 diodes instead. Amazon: amzn.to/2GbWUoV, Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/printer-parts/pp_009436583143.html?wid=1433363&lkid=20375346
I've been using Leo's Hulk Frame for over a year on my A8. It's the best frame brace out there. I had better luck printing it without supports. The first set I printed with supports got the M3 holes filled with support material.
Hello. I tried to print your Hulk model print frame. the buttom parts I don't have problems to print them.. But my problem is to print the arms of the hulk frame. The thyni part of the arm , what fits in the bottom , every time always get up and take off from the hotbed ... i have tried more than 3 times with different print speeds, different print and hotbed, with different fan settings , with different temperture but allways happen this !! My printer is Anet A8. Can you help me with the print settings.. I'm really gratefull if you can help me !! thank you
I used the Kaisertech PLA. It seems it is not available outside of germany. Will check out the Amazon PLA in one of the next videos, which makes more sense for an international audience.
Thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
installing tl smoothers improve my print quality its cheap and it work well and stepper drivers also make a difference now im running with drv8825 instead of 4988 less noise and more accuracy i know it exist better drivers but for what im printing i dont need it really:)
MKS board is definitely something I want to try out. What exactly improved with the RAMPS board. How is it visible/discoverable what is better? Can you explain a bit more detailed?
@@Crosslink3D what i like with ramps its the fact you can customize your printer like better stepper motor drivers convert to 24 volt some mod like this :) mks board are a very good option too! its base on ramps some kind , and a lot of guys in 3d custom printer use ramps :) and a tons of information too on it since im with ramps 1.6 better version ,better mosfet ,and safer no problem at all!! i love this mod im not going back to the stock mother ever never :) ho and you can install 2 extruder! i love it and like Tom said heatbed connector!! me i have put 2 mosfet on my ramps 1.6 one for hotbed and one for hotend and the wire stay cool not heat at all if im printing abs or nylon
I'm not seeing any difference in x movement between the t brace and the hulk brace.. Then again perhaps it's because my a8 isn't falling apart yet. Most people I've talked to say save your filament the hulk brace isn't required.
I used www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192120 , less plastic but uses m6 threaded rod. Simple and effective. Have a look. You may want to make a video on extruder transition from direct drive to bowden setup which only requires you to source for PTFE tube ONLY whilst maintain stock parts. Here's a link to that mod > www.thingiverse.com/thing:3088060 Thanks!
@@Crosslink3D True. I spoke before my brain.... I am used to my CNC Router which has a fast pitch on the ball screws. But there are other pitch in 8mm lead screw. You can have www.aliexpress.com/i/32873383335.html instead of the 2mm pitch the Anet employs on its Z axis. And the NEMA17 motors are capable of higher RPM Well I am doing the Hulk Frame upgrade and hope to be able to complete a FFF of a huge prototype that really should be done on the E3. I just can't order everything I would like. Thanks for getting back Daniel.
i had that crap on my frame. i took it off. didnt improve anything. settings made a world of difference for me. people seem to waste more time and $ trying to upgrade these when 99% time that money didnt fix anything.
@@Crosslink3D retract extrude. speed. i changed all my nema motors over to name brand with more steps. guy thomas has videos on settings and which are best and how to determine which is best for you. most time i turn my feed rate up to 125%. then when its getting closer to end of print if im around or things that are detailed i slow print back to 100% feed rate. i dont touch the other speeds any more. my new anet i got used from someone im still dialing it in. i have a weak nema motor on it so im gonna change all its nema motors also. and my other recently had the mobo go bad for some reason i havent been able to find out other then i think that bad nema motor did it. cause it wont even power on now. i changed its fuse. so it has me a bit stumped other then i think was that nema.
I am humbled! This is a wonderfully made video! Enjoy using the Hulk frame brace and my other mods. Feel free to ask any questions concerning the Anet A8 that you might have.
Thanks Leo, wonderful feedback. So happy that you like it 😀
Best upgrade on my A8 was mounting it firmly to a base of MDF board. I used 1in. black metal L's screwed to board to lock the frame in place on the Y & X and zip tied it down on the Y rods. You don't really even notice them. I've since gotten a larger printer but I learned so much on that A8. I'd still say that's the best 1st 3d printer. You learn what work's what doesn't. I like your channel because you don't go crazy on the upgrades and stick with useful stuff. But an A8 is an A8 and only makes sense to not spend a fortune on it. With my large printer you get the same issues and it has a metal frame. I'd love to see a series on building a large HyperCube. To me that's the platform for large printers that makes the most sense to try and get the speed up on. Thank's for the video's. I always enjoy them.
Thanks for the comments. I also agree that the Anet is a good first printer. Of course the Ender 3 is easier to start but with the A8 you learn much more about how these printers work and its more tinker friendly. Keep on printing cool stuff!
yes indeed clamping the frame to a base keep that machine really steady on mine the y axis have a tendencies to lift up especially at high printing speed now with my plywood base all is solid!
Sounds really like a good idea. however I need to move my printers around a lot, so probably not a good option for me but will think about it definitely.
@@Crosslink3D You know being mounted makes moving it a lot easier too. Just carry it from the base. Now when I move it I don't even have to relevel the bed. I wasn't kidding when I said it was about the best upgrade I did on mine.
I found my A8 had Y ripples as well. This seems to be caused by the front of the frame cantilevering and not quite touching the table below it. When the carriage would move out this would cause the front frame to drop ever slightly and create ripples. This was more apparent on the back of parts than the front. I put together a lack enclosure and then secured the y axis frame rods to the table with some brackets and screws. It significantly increased my quality on my y-axis. You should check if you are having a similar problems. Thanks for the videos I have used them as a guide fro many of my own upgrades and general education on these printers.
This exact same thing is happening on mine. Planning to lock it down.
Thanks for that, I have a lack enclosure but did not yet lock the printer down. Will give it a try! 👍
@@Crosslink3D Piece of sanded plywood and this attachment is working perfectly (www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123364)
I have been using the hulk frame for a while now works good and looks good.
yes and its a good improvement it help a lot to keep the flimsy frame !
I printed my first large print last weekend (21cm tall stormtrooper astronaut from thingiverse) and it was all perfect until the few cm's when the layers were not sticking together and was "spongy" did not have a clue as to why this happened until seeing this video. I am sure it is to do with the wobble!! Another great video Daniel. Keep it up!!
Thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
@@Crosslink3D anytime Daniel. You are doing a great job, and because of you I have a list of A8 upgrade parts waiting to install ckeep it up!!
Great video, I have the silly triangle frame braces and noticed they did nothing the day I put them on. I'll have to give the Hulk a try. I've always thought that because the bed is suspended on springs this would introduce inaccuracy in the Y axis. We need a better way to attach the bed but still be able to adjust (for those of us who do it manually)
it wont change anything dont waste your time. want a better frame. buy the metal frame upgrade. adding some cheap plastic parts isnt gonna help these frames. ive never had any of the problems others have that settings couldnt fix. i have a ctc prusa. that thing is cheap. and it prints great no issues. z rods wobble like they SHOULD. i tried to make them tight and all they did was ruin prints cause threaded rods are not perfect they wobble no matter what. if you secure top bottom then middle wobbles. i think i just unsub from this guy. cause none of his videos have helped with anything. the whole marlin boot load what a fail.
HardTimes, sad to read this but I still like to offer my help. Just reply if you want, otherwise I hope you are finding more success soon.
@@Crosslink3D im thankful for ya help in helping others. im sure its helped lots of others. i seem to never have the issues others have if i do seems its something silly that causes it instead of the normal lol.
Thanks for the openness, I am always trying to improve so I take the feedback very seriously.
@@StevesDIYProjects7 Everyones solution to problems with a printer is to throw money at it. That is not always (or often ever) the case. 99% of your problems can be solved in the settings. Once you make your a8 fireproof (although it looks like the new models save you from having to solder the bed) most everything else is just monkey see monkey do.
Hello , do you know if worth it the tl smothers in a anet a8 board? have you tried it?
Yes, I tried them and they are totally worth it. But you should not buy the cheap ones with 4 diodes, they did not work for me (motors reversed and crashed into frame). Get the ones with 8 diodes instead. Amazon: amzn.to/2GbWUoV, Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/printer-parts/pp_009436583143.html?wid=1433363&lkid=20375346
@@Crosslink3D thank you
I'm getting toothed idlers (same tooth count as the drive gear: 16) so hopefully that will help with my waves I have in tall builds.
I've been using Leo's Hulk Frame for over a year on my A8. It's the best frame brace out there. I had better luck printing it without supports. The first set I printed with supports got the M3 holes filled with support material.
Hi, thanks for the comment! Yes, the holes are normally filled, same for me. I had to drill them open.
Yep, that's what a drill is for. Every maker should have a drill, even a hand drill.
Hello. I tried to print your Hulk model print frame. the buttom parts I don't have problems to print them.. But my problem is to print the arms of the hulk frame. The thyni part of the arm , what fits in the bottom , every time always get up and take off from the hotbed ...
i have tried more than 3 times with different print speeds, different print and hotbed, with different fan settings , with different temperture but allways happen this !!
My printer is Anet A8.
Can you help me with the print settings..
I'm really gratefull if you can help me !! thank you
nice upgrade Daniel:) which filament you use here?
I used the Kaisertech PLA. It seems it is not available outside of germany. Will check out the Amazon PLA in one of the next videos, which makes more sense for an international audience.
@@Crosslink3D cool :)
Great vid and informative as always
Thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
I have a problem when I install the upper arm the angles break, impossible to slide the arm. do you have the solution?
is there any way to fix broken parts of anet a8 frame?
I don’t think so. Better buy AM8 metal frame
installing tl smoothers improve my print quality its cheap and it work well and stepper drivers also make a difference now im running with drv8825 instead of 4988 less noise and more accuracy
i know it exist better drivers but for what im printing i dont need it really:)
How are you using 8825 drivers? Did you switch to the Ramps board?
@@JohnSmith-mk8hz yeah because the Anetboard 1.5 and the melzi burn out now with ramps i got no problem! next time i upgrade to mks l gen board
MKS board is definitely something I want to try out. What exactly improved with the RAMPS board. How is it visible/discoverable what is better? Can you explain a bit more detailed?
@@Crosslink3D what i like with ramps its the fact you can customize your printer like better stepper motor drivers convert to 24 volt some mod like this :) mks board are a very good option too! its base on ramps some kind , and a lot of guys in 3d custom printer use ramps :) and a tons of information too on it since im with ramps 1.6 better version ,better mosfet ,and safer no problem at all!! i love this mod im not going back to the stock mother ever never :) ho and you can install 2 extruder! i love it and like Tom said heatbed connector!! me i have put 2 mosfet on my ramps 1.6 one for hotbed and one for hotend and the wire stay cool not heat at all if im printing abs or nylon
@@Crosslink3D ruclips.net/video/FYJn6FuWOv4/видео.html
What about the metal frame? *Grate video!*
Definitely going to build the new frame in the coming weeks. Exciting!
Thank you.
I'm not seeing any difference in x movement between the t brace and the hulk brace.. Then again perhaps it's because my a8 isn't falling apart yet. Most people I've talked to say save your filament the hulk brace isn't required.
If you see no difference, you have to increase the tension. There is spacers that help doing that on the thingiverse page.
I used www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192120 , less plastic but uses m6 threaded rod. Simple and effective. Have a look. You may want to make a video on extruder transition from direct drive to bowden setup which only requires you to source for PTFE tube ONLY whilst maintain stock parts. Here's a link to that mod > www.thingiverse.com/thing:3088060 Thanks!
Just re-build as an AM 8 using extrusions. Problem solved!
The Y axis should be driven by a lead screw. This would not be such a big project I think.
This would make the printer way too slow. And what do you gain? Not much.
@@Crosslink3D True. I spoke before my brain.... I am used to my CNC Router which has a fast pitch on the ball screws.
But there are other pitch in 8mm lead screw. You can have www.aliexpress.com/i/32873383335.html instead of the 2mm pitch the Anet employs on its Z axis. And the NEMA17 motors are capable of higher RPM
Well I am doing the Hulk Frame upgrade and hope to be able to complete a FFF of a huge prototype that really should be done on the E3.
I just can't order everything I would like. Thanks for getting back Daniel.
i had that crap on my frame. i took it off. didnt improve anything. settings made a world of difference for me. people seem to waste more time and $ trying to upgrade these when 99% time that money didnt fix anything.
Hey HardTimes, what settings did improve the print quality the most for you?
@@Crosslink3D retract extrude. speed. i changed all my nema motors over to name brand with more steps. guy thomas has videos on settings and which are best and how to determine which is best for you. most time i turn my feed rate up to 125%. then when its getting closer to end of print if im around or things that are detailed i slow print back to 100% feed rate. i dont touch the other speeds any more. my new anet i got used from someone im still dialing it in. i have a weak nema motor on it so im gonna change all its nema motors also. and my other recently had the mobo go bad for some reason i havent been able to find out other then i think that bad nema motor did it. cause it wont even power on now. i changed its fuse. so it has me a bit stumped other then i think was that nema.
That is crap, do AM8 Upgrade or blv upgrade for it. Thingiverse has it all
I see your point. AM8 and BLV upgrage are way better but also not expensive. going to cover AM8 soon 😉
Why not just buy a better printer in the first place. You either want to do 3D printing or spend all your efforts on the printer itself.