How to Flush an Outboard Engine | BoatUS
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- Опубликовано: 13 фев 2020
- No matter where you boat, if you have an outboard motor, the best thing you can do to help prolong its life and keep it in good running shape is to flush it with freshwater after every use. This is especially important in saltwater or brackish water. But even if you boat in freshwater lakes or rivers, you still need to do this important maintenance task every time because it's easy to suck up mud, grit, and other contaminants.
Always follow your outboard boat engine manufacturer's recommendations for how to perform this maintenance, but generally it's pretty much the same other than amount of time to run freshwater through the system. Some companies say 5 minutes, others say 10. Generally more is better.
Some outboard engines have flushing ports, which make the job very simple. If your outboard motor doesn't have a port, you'll need to use earmuffs, which slip over the intakes and deliver freshwater from a hose into the motor. For this, you'll need to start the engine, but make sure to leave it in neutral and don't touch the throttle.
One important tip: Don't hook up the hose and walk away to do other tasks. It's critical to ensure the water continues to flow and the earmuffs don't shift while doing this, otherwise it may damage your outboard. Read more about outboard flushing at www.boatus.com/expert-advice/...
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#outboard #flushing #boatus 
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A very useful introduction to correct methods of flushing an outboard. Many thanks.
You're very welcome, Chris. Thanks for watching
Great information considering prep for the spring commissioning activities will begin soon. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Lenny!
I believe the newer 4 stroke Mercury outboards have the easy flush too.
Thanks for watching, Carl!
All good advice-thanks!
Thanks for watching, Noel!
Good info. They make muffs that lock through the foot intake so there is no way to fall off. But I agree constant supervision is key. Like the vids keep them coming.
Thanks for the tip, Mike. And make sure you subscribe and hit that notification bell to get an alert when we post new vids--about every 2 weeks.
Thank you very helpful.
Thanks so much for watching, Greg and Linda! Glad you found it helpful.
great explanation.
Thanks for watching, Constantine. Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks!!
Thank YOU so much for watching, Jim!
Very good,
Thanks for watching!
My Merc 110 was built in 65 and still running.I backflush after use every time. My 175 get done too
Awesome, Dal! Here's to many more engine hours for both of those.
Thanks for the great video. Do you recommend slightly revving the engine in neutral at all while flushing on the muffs to bring the operating temp up? Or will normal idle in neutral be fine, without revving at all? I have a Honda 40hp tiller. Thanks!
Hi Tim. It’s a small outboard and thus has less mass, so it will reach operating temperature swiftly - no need to rev the engine.
As mentioned in the video, always follow your operating manual instructions first and foremost. My 40hp Mercury 4-stroke requires the engine to be running for 5 minutes during the flush.
Great point, and I think we mentioned that in the video, shekinm. We always advise following manufacturer instructions first.
Will the motor pee when using the first method (connecting hose to motor)
Does the thermostat stay open after engine returns to dock and you start the upper static flush right away? I understand its important to do the flush ASAP after using engine to take advantage of an open thermostat to get all areas of the water jacket.
Thanks for the question! It's always good to flush the engine ASAP after use so the saltwater won't have a chance to dry and create deposits, though a thorough flush (most manufacturers recommend at least five minutes) later will still do the trick. As far as the thermostat goes, it's not a worry because a garden hose provides more than enough pressure to send water through the entire system via the poppet valve. That said, we always suggest that you follow manufacturer recommendations for flushing your specific motor.
i need to get an engine like that to put on my cannoe .i think it will make it go fast
😂
I will be taking my pontoon boat up the Neuse River in NC and that is really brackish water. I will be using a public boat launch to both launch and recover. There is no water faucet to hook a hose up to for at minimum an initial flushing with just plain no salt water. My thought is to have a couple gallons of mixed salt away and water and with a funnel get it down the two flush ports I have on my Suzuki 150. Once I complete the 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive home, I will go through the full de-salinization process properly.
What are your thoughts on my plan??
Thanks for the question, Old Shooter. That's a good thought, but ... the flush ports are lower than the powerhead, so it requires water pressure to force the water up through the passages in the cooling system. Gravity alone won't get the job done. If you had some way to hand pump the water as opposed to pouring it in a funnel, you might be able to make it work, but without pressure the water just won't make its way through the system. That said, towing for a few hours after use and prior to flushing isn't at all uncommon. While it's ideally best to do the flush immediately, particularly after use in brackish water, if you do so when you get home it should be just fine. Have a great time!
If I have the boat docked in saltwater and use the muffs, do I put the muffs on and then lower the engine into the water since it won’t run with it being tilted up?
Thanks for the question, gguy. You do not say what engine that you have and the way that engines are flushed after use vary. Many of the later, larger capacity motors have a direct hose connection for flushing to use once you return to the dock. These attachments are used without running the engine.
If are using muffs, place these on the lower unit, and after connecting the hose and turning on the water, lower the engine and run it out of gear for 10 minutes or so to ensure all the saltwater has been flushed out of internal passageways. As we always recommend here at BoatUS, follow the advice in the owner’s manual for your particular engine.
how come not to touch the throttle or bump the boat in gear when running on muffs? Granted, I have a 1989 Mercury V135 2 stroke, maybe there's a difference there.
Hey Nick - This is a matter of safety. You certainly don't want the prop spinning around, especially if the boat's on a trailer on land. And there's no benefit to it in any case. Plus, shifting or revving can increase vibrations and thereby increase the chances of the muffs coming loose and interrupting the water supply.
When you use the flush port the motor I think should be hot if you flush using a bucket can u use dawn soap to flush with
Hi KTM. None of the engine manufacturers recommend adding soap for flushing, which could have potential negative effects on some materials inside the engine. Remember, you're not trying to "clean" the cooling system; you're just trying to rinse away salt and deposits. Freshwater from a hose works just fine for that.
If you are using the flushing port and you don’t start the engine, how will it get to temperature to open the system for the water to flush the upper part of the engine???
Thanks for the question, Leonardo. The system is designed for water flowing in via the flushing port to pass through all the passages. The easiest way to think about it is that you're flushing the engine in reverse -- rather than sucking up water via the intakes, you're sending it through the powerhead first, then down and out through the intakes. Going from the top down, the entire system gets a freshwater flush.
Will it damage the motor if you hook up the hose to the top flushing port and start the motor for a couple minutes?
Thanks for the question, Al. When flushing via the port, you do NOT want to start the engine. Just turn the hose on, and freshwater will move through the system. You want to crank the engine over ONLY when earmuffs are attached on every model we're aware of. (Though, as always, we'd suggest checking the owner's manual for your specific model engine.)
So, even if it is a while before you can get the motor and boat home to flush, doesn't the thermostat close? Does the Yamaha, and now of course, Mercury flushing force the flush through the thermostat?
I ask because there are a few other RUclips video's espousing ear muffs always.
Thanks for the question, Silver. There are some (mostly older tech) motors which need to be at running temps to flush completely, but many others that circulate via a poppet valve, bypass, or bleeder valve, (in some cases including a bleeding in the thermostat itself), which allow the water to flow through the system regardless of temperature and thermostat status. In most cases with modern models this isn't an issue and the flush port does the trick. But to be sure this is the case for your outboard, the best course of action is always to refer to the owner's manual and follow the manufacturer's recommended flushing procedure.
@@boatus Thank you, that was helpful! You folks are my go to people for answers (and the owners manual, of course). Now all I have to do is get a boat, tow vehicle, supplies, etc...
@@SkyKing58318 You are very welcome, and thanks for trusting us for all your boating knowledge! Enjoy the process, and be sure to check out all our helpful advice for buying a boat at www.boatus.com/buying. We hope it is smooth and fun. Also, don't forget your BoatUS membership gets you rewards for shopping at West Marine (for all those supplies). And we are always adding valuable member discounts with national partners -- log into your BoatUS accunt and click "Resources" to find discount codes! You can save on everything from boat graphics to navigation and lines electronics!
I am new to my (2006) Yamaha 225 and not sure it is getting water to the telltale while in neutral while submerged or when using the upper flush attachment with a garden hose. In the first case, I will see water only after putting the engine in gear. In the second case, all the water leaks out the intakes, even if I tape them up and let it run for several minutes. I'm guessing maybe I have a bad impeller. Afraid I could have already done some damage to the engine, since it ran a couple of times without a telltale water stream. Once in gear it produced water so I thought it was fine. Any advice?
Thanks for your question, Sarah. A couple of things: First, when running freshwater through the flushing port hose attachment, the engine should not be running. These ports circulate water in the reverse direction (through the powerhead and out through the intakes) so if you run the engine, the impeller is fighting against the flow. You should never have to cover the intakes for any reason, and water should flow freely from the hose through the powerhead and then out through the intakes when flushing with this system.
As to water not flowing when the engine is running with the intakes submerged, that is indeed indicative of an impeller problem (and that's exactly why the telltale exists - so you can spot it visually). There's a good chance the lower unit water pump and impeller need to be replaced. Before doing so, however, you should take a thick piece of monofilament fishing line (80 pound test is usually about right) a few feet long, thread it into the tell-tale, and spin it between your fingers. Occasionally the tell-tale will get clogged or insects will build a nest in it, restricting water flow. If that's the case, the fishing line should dislodge it and then when you start up, you should see water flowing out. (Note - it does take a minute or two for water to work its way through the passages on an engine that big, so let it idle for a couple minutes before making any judgments.
Here's the good news: It's unlikely you've done any damage to the engine, because if it wasn't getting enough water flow it would have overheated and the high temperature alarm should have gone off. Also, replacing a lower unit water pump isn't a huge job, and generally takes two to three hours for a qualified service tech, so the price isn't likely to be more than a few hundred dollars (depending on where you're located and the prevailing hourly labor charges - parts for this job are well under $100). If you try the monofilament trick and it still isn't pumping water in neutral, we'd definitely suggest having this service done. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Can I get a water hose that reaches my mooring? Short of having a significant size tank onboard I can’t see how flushing is possible on a moored boat.
Well, you just ID'd the biggest problem with keeping an outboard-powered boat on a mooring! Some larger boats with freshwater systems can be plumbed with an outlet by the transom, and we have heard of some folks who haul out a jerry can, hand-pump, and garden hose, but those are about the only options.
If I use the flushing port/hose connector on my Yamaha 150 4-stroke, while in the slip, should the engine be tilted with prop out of the water, or should I leave it in the down position, with the prop below the water?
Thanks for the question, Eric. Just as long as freezing isn't an issue, it should be left tilted up. If there's a hard freeze, with an outboard boat left in a slip it's safer to have the motors tilted down.
@@boatus Does that hold true for a 2 stroke as well? I have a 150 Yamaha 2 stroke that I flush tilted up.
@@billykay4472 Thanks for the question, Billy. It's the same for a 2-stroke.
So if you flush with flush port, you don't have to do the other method? Or shoud you do both?
Great question Lee. You're correct. It's one or the other. Thanks for watching!
how long should it take to see water out the pi$$er? I am new to boating and want to go over everything before put the boat in the water.
Thanks for the question, phat. This depends on the size of your outboard. On a small portable outboard it takes just a few seconds. But on a larger V-6 or V-8, it can take a minute or two for the water to work its way through all the passages and start coming out the tell-tale. Hope this helps.
@@boatus its a 2004 mercury 115hp. I'll test it again.
Do you recommend the salt away? Or is plain water sufficient?
Thanks for the great question, Robert! Freshwater is sufficient as long as you follow the manufacturer's recommended duration (usually it's for a minimum of 5 minutes but some do call for 10 minutes). That said, we certainly can't see any harm in using Salt Away, too.
@@boatus thank you
I have a 2008 150 yamaha outboard and when I put the earmuffs it won't suck up the water and it overhead ones do you know what can it be?
Thanks for the question, Roimel. There could be a couple of things going on here. You mention sucking up the water which make me wonder if you have a length of hose connected to your muffs and are trying to suck water utilizing the outboard’s water pump from a bucket or other container. When the boat is in the water, the leg is entirely surrounded by water and the water pump is easily able to suck water as the static pressure is such that this makes this possible. With the boat out of the water, the outboard is operating in a totally different environment and the muffs need to be connected to a hose connected to a faucet that supplies water under pressure.
If you are doing this, but the engine is still overheating, then I would suspect that the water pump may require service, most probably a new impeller is needed. I covered this in some detail in an article published a few years back so you may want to check that out. www.boatus.com/magazine/2017/february/outboard-water-pump-service.asp
The final possibility is that the muffs are not properly covering the water intakes on you outboard leg. On your engine, these are the small black grills on the lower portion of the outboard leg.
Thanks for watching, and check back in when you figure it out. We'd be interested to know what you find.
@@boatusthank you so much for responding, I figured it out I had my muffs content to a hose but there wasn't enough water pressure and the muffs weren't tight enough so all the water was leaking out, not enough water pressure to get up to the water pump, change to a different faucet with more water pressure, tighten the muffs more problem solved
@@roimelrodriguez5315 Awesome news, and thanks for following up! No doubt this will help out a few people who might be experiencing a similar issue. Have a safe, fun, and problem-free boating season!
Ironic that you begin by saying follow the manufacturer's instructions. In fact, those instructions in every case were written by lawyers and they say never use an earmuff without first removing the prop. Of course nobody is going to do that!
When you flush like this the top of the motor does not Get that water Because the thermostat is closed when cold so IT does not work completely....but when you put the earmuffs on lower unit and start the motor Then run IT hot so the thermostat opens and the water will reach the waterjackets in the top end of your motor....this is the best...
Why does this man look like Tim Blake Nelson
Had to look that up. You think? Maybe a little.
BoatUS the guy from o brother where art thou? And holes
@@allseriousness I should have known that. O' Brother is one of my favorites.
I don’t see it. If anything, more like John Turturro from the same flick 😊
Great content by the way! Thanks