My favourite stock controller is the Tomy Turbo controller found in some F1 sets in the 90's. It's like a pistil grip RC controller. Wheel controls the speed, trigger opens the circuit right up instantly for the straights.
Very nice vid! Out of all the vids I have seen this vid helped me the most in a lot of areas. I have been building a Watkins Glen track for the past year. I have used a lot of your ideas. Track cleaning block, controllers and the terminal blocks. At first I seen the terminal blocks at Loews and they were $9. Then I went to Radio Shack (RIP) and got the same ones for $2.50. The sanding block is almost like a sponge and will not harm the track. The cost around $6. and will last forever. The Controller Plus controllers are the best for what I'm doing. I have a 4 lane home track that I run Non Mag, MT and the vintage G Plus cars and the ohm dial works perfect for that. I hard wired them. Thanks for all the help! Keep up the good work.
Because I use such a wide range of cars from T-Jets to Vipers, I went with the Professor Motor electronic controller. They change resistance automatically according to the car. Also, you can buy a 2 sided foam tape that is just the right height for the boarders and boards. ;) Thanks for the lane painting tip! I found a pack with my lane colors "Red White Blue & Yellow" Easy peasy!
Looks like a fast layout 👌🏻Nicezzzz .... I purchased four of them controllers too off E~Bay and love them. Right now I'm in the process of building a 36 X 80 framed door layout. Don't really have the real estate for a super layout. Anyway , I sub'ed ya and thanks for the tips. 🏁Mike🏁
Thanks Mike for watching. Yea on some cars it's too fast But I like it, Your right I love mine too They work with about every car. I know a lot of guys using frame door layouts they are fun. Once again Thanks.
What's up vitoman50...this may be an old video, cuz I've seen you restoring parmas, but I'd definitely suggest the proffesor motor Simon sez recommended. I've tried the adjustable aurora ones, and they pale in comparison, plus they're not terribly hearty. You pretty much get what you pay for.
Nurzrachit I agree, but not everyone can afford a high dollar controller. I'm just showing a better alternative to the stock junk controller that comes with most sets. As I show a progression from layman to experience racer I will be showing upper end controllers. I don't want to overwhelm the newbies right out if the gate and deter them from having fun. Hope this helps you understand my madness. Lol
vitoman50 oh yeah, I hear that. Your a good dude, and we all appreciate the time you spend helping people understand things and break it down. I'm not sure if you know, but professor motor makes an economy style controller, except it has a flat resistor wiper not like a parma/russkit of the old. The trigger is smooth as silk. I purchased a 35 ohm controller for$37 dollars for a hopped up tyco 3.5 ohm armiture car, and man I was blown away. They also make the ohm controllers in various ratings, all for less than40 dollars. Then they step up to transistorized controllers, like the2115 that Simon Sez mentioned. That controller is$57 brand new, and it can be used with any car you have. The transistor senses the resistance of the motor, and adjusts on the fly, they work spectacular my friend. Anyway, possibly over the new guys head, but possibly a controller you may be interested in in the future. I luckily stumbled over them looking for a better controller than my tomy120s. Now I have 3 proffesor motors, and I re-wrapped an old russkit for fun...95 ohms, and it rocks too. Paid 10 dollars shipped off fleabag. Anyway, I enjoy watching your vids, you guys do a rock freaking solid show, keep them coming, I got my bell rung for ya brother.
Nurzrachit thanks for the info. I will be trying the variable range controller at a later date. Been needing it myself too. I figured start at the bottom work my way up from there. Got to many video ideas, can't wait to put out the upper end videos later. Thanks bud .
+Charles Flaherty Got a Mega G it runs fine on all setting, but it runs slow on the regular setting and speeds up as you turn the dial. Thanks for asking I will do a video this week.
Ray Furrer I always did 15 pieces of 15 inch straights that was 225 inches at about 18.75 feet. That seamed close enough at the time, changed it later....
..and if you want the best controllers for the money get your hands on a Professor Motor PMTR2115 or 2117 and you'll never use the Aurora or most anything else again.(considering the cost-'bang for the buck")The see through adjustable Aurora controllers you show and use are variable from 5-35 ohm for high performance low ohm armature cars or very inefficient cars, so that why you like them! almost instant power to the cars and voltage you are using.
Bad call dude! Your sanding your track contact rails away !!! Think about it. You want to clean it. Not grind it away! Use "NEVR - DULL" !!! It's a soft and clean. Rub the sanding block on the back of your hand and tell me if you want to clean the track with.
+Michael Cherubini I've been using the drywall blocks for over 20 years and never had an issue. I use light pressure, my rails or track surface have not seen any damage in that time. Guys tell me not to use WD 40 neither but me and the guys in my group swear by it. Our tracks seem to have more traction with it than without. Thanks for watching.
I just did a vid of me painting my track. I use these sanding blocks thanks to you. I mentioned you in my vid. I also rubbed it on my hand showing how soft it is. It wont damage the track or rails. The block cost about $4 at Loews. It will last a life time.
Развлечения
Very cool watching it all come together. Great idea using the pipe insulation foam for padding.
Thanks Tim hope some of the things i show helps. The padding kind of adds a nice look to the track table too
My favourite stock controller is the Tomy Turbo controller found in some F1 sets in the 90's. It's like a pistil grip RC controller. Wheel controls the speed, trigger opens the circuit right up instantly for the straights.
Very nice vid! Out of all the vids I have seen this vid helped me the most in a lot of areas. I have been building a Watkins Glen track for the past year. I have used a lot of your ideas. Track cleaning block, controllers and the terminal blocks. At first I seen the terminal blocks at Loews and they were $9. Then I went to Radio Shack (RIP) and got the same ones for $2.50. The sanding block is almost like a sponge and will not harm the track. The cost around $6. and will last forever. The Controller Plus controllers are the best for what I'm doing. I have a 4 lane home track that I run Non Mag, MT and the vintage G Plus cars and the ohm dial works perfect for that. I hard wired them. Thanks for all the help! Keep up the good work.
H.O. Joe Thanks glad I can help.Alot more info to come. Thanks for watching.
great video Kevin keep up the great work
Because I use such a wide range of cars from T-Jets to Vipers, I went with the Professor Motor electronic controller. They change resistance automatically according to the car. Also, you can buy a 2 sided foam tape that is just the right height for the boarders and boards. ;)
Thanks for the lane painting tip! I found a pack with my lane colors "Red White Blue & Yellow" Easy peasy!
Looks like a lot of fun, Good Luck with it
+Ray Furrer Thanks for watching Ray.
Looks like a fast layout 👌🏻Nicezzzz .... I purchased four of them controllers too off E~Bay and love them. Right now I'm in the process of building a 36 X 80 framed door layout. Don't really have the real estate for a super layout. Anyway , I sub'ed ya and thanks for the tips. 🏁Mike🏁
Thanks Mike for watching. Yea on some cars it's too fast But I like it, Your right I love mine too They work with about every car. I know a lot of guys using frame door layouts they are fun. Once again Thanks.
If you have any ideas for shows of tech let me know.
+vitoman50 🏁👍🏻🏁
What's up vitoman50...this may be an old video, cuz I've seen you restoring parmas, but I'd definitely suggest the proffesor motor Simon sez recommended. I've tried the adjustable aurora ones, and they pale in comparison, plus they're not terribly hearty. You pretty much get what you pay for.
Nurzrachit I agree, but not everyone can afford a high dollar controller. I'm just showing a better alternative to the stock junk controller that comes with most sets. As I show a progression from layman to experience racer I will be showing upper end controllers. I don't want to overwhelm the newbies right out if the gate and deter them from having fun. Hope this helps you understand my madness. Lol
vitoman50 oh yeah, I hear that. Your a good dude, and we all appreciate the time you spend helping people understand things and break it down. I'm not sure if you know, but professor motor makes an economy style controller, except it has a flat resistor wiper not like a parma/russkit of the old. The trigger is smooth as silk. I purchased a 35 ohm controller for$37 dollars for a hopped up tyco 3.5 ohm armiture car, and man I was blown away. They also make the ohm controllers in various ratings, all for less than40 dollars. Then they step up to transistorized controllers, like the2115 that Simon Sez mentioned. That controller is$57 brand new, and it can be used with any car you have. The transistor senses the resistance of the motor, and adjusts on the fly, they work spectacular my friend. Anyway, possibly over the new guys head, but possibly a controller you may be interested in in the future. I luckily stumbled over them looking for a better controller than my tomy120s. Now I have 3 proffesor motors, and I re-wrapped an old russkit for fun...95 ohms, and it rocks too. Paid 10 dollars shipped off fleabag.
Anyway, I enjoy watching your vids, you guys do a rock freaking solid show, keep them coming, I got my bell rung for ya brother.
Nurzrachit thanks for the info. I will be trying the variable range controller at a later date. Been needing it myself too. I figured start at the bottom work my way up from there. Got to many video ideas, can't wait to put out the upper end videos later. Thanks bud .
where the hell is there a Radio Shack those left KY like 15 years ago :( I Miss the Radio Shack
Good idea
Can you use those controllers with Mega G cars since they require a 120 ohm controller?
+Charles Flaherty I will get a Mega G this weekend and find out then post it......Thanks
+Charles Flaherty Got a Mega G it runs fine on all setting, but it runs slow on the regular setting and speeds up as you turn the dial. Thanks for asking I will do a video this week.
Hey Vitoman, I am in the process of building a dragstrip, would you know the correct length of a regulation track set up?
Ray Furrer 1320 ft x 12 ft divided by 64th scale =247.5 inches x 12 =20.625 ft. Hope that helped.
Ray Furrer I always did 15 pieces of 15 inch straights that was 225 inches at about 18.75 feet. That seamed close enough at the time, changed it later....
Ray Furrer remember burn out area and shut down too.
And for every 12 sections, install the jumpers.
Ray Furrer 10 to 14 seems about right.
Do you still like these controlers? How do they stand up?
Still use them but I'm slowly switching to parma controllers.
Thanks for the reply. Parma still available? Heard of ds controller?
You can still get them at hobby shows and on line. 45 ohms 440 x2 and magnet cars 90- 120no e magnet cars or an adjustable one will work too
..and if you want the best controllers for the money get your hands on a Professor Motor PMTR2115 or 2117 and you'll never use the Aurora or most anything else again.(considering the cost-'bang for the buck")The see through adjustable Aurora controllers you show and use are variable from 5-35 ohm for high performance low ohm armature cars or very inefficient cars, so that why you like them! almost instant power to the cars and voltage you are using.
Bad call dude! Your sanding your track contact rails away !!! Think about it. You want to clean it. Not grind it away! Use "NEVR - DULL" !!! It's a soft and clean. Rub the sanding block on the back of your hand and tell me if you want to clean the track with.
+Michael Cherubini I've been using the drywall blocks for over 20 years and never had an issue. I use light pressure, my rails or track surface have not seen any damage in that time. Guys tell me not to use WD 40 neither but me and the guys in my group swear by it. Our tracks seem to have more traction with it than without. Thanks for watching.
I just did a vid of me painting my track. I use these sanding blocks thanks to you. I mentioned you in my vid. I also rubbed it on my hand showing how soft it is. It wont damage the track or rails. The block cost about $4 at Loews. It will last a life time.
@@vitoman50 Great idea on the block, what is the grit on them; 120, 180 or finer? Thank you!
Feels like 320
1960's tech: Big block ink eraser. Not gritty enough to wear away anything, but worked very well to clean the rails.