I'm planning on building a boat so have started the learning process before I settle on a plan and make my first cuts. This was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Thanks - and good luck! If you're interested, I have a free mini course on the Small Boat School website about getting started in boatbuilding. Cheers, Mikkel
wow awesome video ,I live in north east Ontario Canada I ve been milling some wood from my land ,many pine, white cedar ,red oak and Tamarack which is similar to Larch .It would interesting to make a cedar strip canoe (a common canoe round here)but make it from tamarack .thanks for the ideas and thoughts
Excellent. When I relocate to Phuket Thailand in December, I will take your course then. Finding out about the proper wood to use, may be a challenge, however. By the way, your English is very clear, with good diction. Tak.
Thanks a lot! I would be very curious to find out what would be the best wood species currently available in Thailand. There is a four-volume work on Thai boatbuilding by Khun Phaithoon which might be useful. I would guess that teak has been commonly used, but it might be hard to come by nowadays. And while it's one of the best boatbuilding woods, it might also be on the heavy side for a canoe. Regards, Mikkel
@@SmallBoatSchool Yes Mikkel, teak is very rare indeed. I have been to the local lumber supply store there and I have never seen such dense wood for 2"X4" lumber.! I will go to marine supply shops and inquire. And I will certainly look for the book you mentioned. I am very excited to get started. Hilsen, Ken
Plywood is very dimensionally stable because it's made up of several thin layers of wood that are at 90 degrees to one another. Shrinkage and swelling is generally negligible. So sheating it with fiberglass and epoxy is not a problem - it actually makes it a lot more rugged and keeps water from getting to the wood. The biggest downside to it, in my opinion, is that it's messy and toxic to work with. So when I build boats I try to use these kinds of materials only sparingly and only where they add significantly to the boat in terms of longevity, performance or wood consumption. For example, if I can seal a loose knot with epoxy, I do it. Because otherwise I would have to discard the plank, which would be wasteful. Or if I can seal a plank seam with a flexible caulk which keeps water from getting into the boat when it has dried up over a long winter, I tend to do it too. Sealing seams with a compound that keeps water from getting in and causing rot is a strong contender, too, because it can add significantly to the lifespan (and thereby long-term sustainability) of the boat. But again: I try to keep it reasonable. For me, boatbuilding should mostly be a fun woodworking job. Not something I do wearing a respirator and a hazmat suit. Cheers, Mikkel
Hi Joseph. Yes, you heard it right. Larch is used a lot in Denmark for planking, because it is stiff, relatively lightweight and relatively rot resistant. You can find more info about it here: www.wood-database.com/european-larch/ Depending on where you live, other species can be great substitutes.
I'm planning on building a boat so have started the learning process before I settle on a plan and make my first cuts. This was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Thanks - and good luck! If you're interested, I have a free mini course on the Small Boat School website about getting started in boatbuilding. Cheers, Mikkel
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. This is extremely helpful and informative. 👍
Thanks a lot for your kind feedback!
Excellent video! Well done!
Thank you! Cheers!
Your Videos are not only verry interesting, there are a verry good english lesson for me too 😊
Thank you Wismut! 😊
so much helpful contents.
Thanx
Most welcome!
wow awesome video ,I live in north east Ontario Canada I ve been milling some wood from my land ,many pine, white cedar ,red oak and Tamarack which is similar to Larch .It would interesting to make a cedar strip canoe (a common canoe round here)but make it from tamarack .thanks for the ideas and thoughts
Thanks for watching! :-)
Excellent. When I relocate to Phuket Thailand in December, I will take your course then. Finding out about the proper wood to use, may be a challenge, however. By the way, your English is very clear, with good diction. Tak.
Thanks a lot! I would be very curious to find out what would be the best wood species currently available in Thailand. There is a four-volume work on Thai boatbuilding by Khun Phaithoon which might be useful. I would guess that teak has been commonly used, but it might be hard to come by nowadays. And while it's one of the best boatbuilding woods, it might also be on the heavy side for a canoe. Regards, Mikkel
@@SmallBoatSchool Yes Mikkel, teak is very rare indeed. I have been to the local lumber supply store there and I have never seen such dense wood for 2"X4" lumber.! I will go to marine supply shops and inquire. And I will certainly look for the book you mentioned. I am very excited to get started. Hilsen, Ken
@@takforalt Good luck, Ken! And do let me know if there's anything I can help you with. :-)
@@SmallBoatSchool OK Mikkel will do. I will keep in touch. Mange tak.
What do you think about plywood boats encased in fiberglass , is differences in expansion & contraction a problem ?
Plywood is very dimensionally stable because it's made up of several thin layers of wood that are at 90 degrees to one another. Shrinkage and swelling is generally negligible. So sheating it with fiberglass and epoxy is not a problem - it actually makes it a lot more rugged and keeps water from getting to the wood.
The biggest downside to it, in my opinion, is that it's messy and toxic to work with. So when I build boats I try to use these kinds of materials only sparingly and only where they add significantly to the boat in terms of longevity, performance or wood consumption.
For example, if I can seal a loose knot with epoxy, I do it. Because otherwise I would have to discard the plank, which would be wasteful.
Or if I can seal a plank seam with a flexible caulk which keeps water from getting into the boat when it has dried up over a long winter, I tend to do it too.
Sealing seams with a compound that keeps water from getting in and causing rot is a strong contender, too, because it can add significantly to the lifespan (and thereby long-term sustainability) of the boat.
But again: I try to keep it reasonable. For me, boatbuilding should mostly be a fun woodworking job. Not something I do wearing a respirator and a hazmat suit.
Cheers,
Mikkel
Sorry, you mention a planking wood and sounded like 'larch'. What were you referring to? I am not familiar with the timber species.
Hi Joseph. Yes, you heard it right. Larch is used a lot in Denmark for planking, because it is stiff, relatively lightweight and relatively rot resistant. You can find more info about it here: www.wood-database.com/european-larch/ Depending on where you live, other species can be great substitutes.
@@SmallBoatSchool Thank you so much.