This video is a MUST for those who are new to 3D printing - it will help understand different brands and materials and the effects of temperature, speed ect.
I cant thank you enough Taow!. This is so logical & easy. Its helped me a lot. For those of you who are using a newer version of Cura, the feature is still built in & is SO EASY to use. It can be found at the top menu bar under Extensions/Post Processing/Modify G-Code. Just select "Add a Script" button & then select the "ChangeatZ" option. I selected this option 11 times and set each one to give me 11 flow tests starting from 105% down to 95%. I'm printing it now & can clearly see what setting I can change to make a huge difference to my prints. It literally only takes 5 mins to set the info (No coding involved - just tick boxes or type in the flow rate percentage you want to test. Just going back to Cura now to do exactly the same for my temperature test.
Great video. I wish I could afford one, but not in my budget @ this time. U just keep on doing what u love doing. U have great skills son. And ur going to do a lot with ur tallants & ur still young. I'm just blowed away with all u know & can do. Every time I watch ur videos on RUclips, I learn something new, & I'm 50 yrs old body wise, but 20 yrs old in spirit. Thank u for that. I truly mean it also. U have a great day or night. Looking forward to ur next video. Thanks for sharing & tell ur Mum & Dad Thank you for letting u share them with us. Best regards, Chris
This is crazy! Make these changes and it went from 21 hours at 50mm/s down 7 hours @ 30 mm/s !!! Amazing help! Thank you! I have an i3 Mega so this has been very helpful. This print is 196 mm tall and that is with 10 percent infill and a raft! WOW!!
Hi, Thanks for the video. My prints have been hit and miss lately, and you've given me some good ideas for finding the right settings for my printer and filament. Many thanks.
Thanks Taow, you're a star! I've just started printing with a Reprap/Prusa hybrid I was given by a friend of a friend and didn't know which way to turn!
actually, you want to find the right temperature BEFORE the right extrusion-multiplier. That's crucial, because a change in temperature does affect the amount of extruded material.
Dumb question, but what if my flow rate that I try the temperature test is jacked? Seems like multiple iterations might be needed. Would this work better? Iteration1: Set flow rate, vary temp Iteration2: Set temp, vary flow rate Iteration3: Set flow rate, vary temp Or is there a better way?
Mark Johnsen just remember that you are not the first person to 3D print. No need to reinvent the wheel. Look up what settings other people use and use that as a starting point. It’s likely your ideal settings will be relatively close to what others use. We all stand on the shoulders of giants you know!
Laymen here, but wouldn't it be offset either way? Perhaps he could find another temp that worked with another extrusion, but does it matter terribly which one he chooses first? In either case he gets the best look on both prints.
@@ServentofTheMostMerciful yep, and with the passing of a year all points are null and void right? People definitely dont watch videos after their original date and have questions when they view them...
Honestly, I thought he was speaking at a great speed. lol. That's how fast my brain works and I actually really liked this video. It was quick and informative. Gives me some more to work with when I use my printer.
I thought the narration was excellent. You gave just the information that was needed and not the waffle most people add. All we have to do is just watch it few times, which is the best way to learn something. Well done.
This was helpful w/ a newer version of CURA 3.x community.ultimaker.com/topic/21317-cura-31-change-at-height/ Mind you, the 15.x version is the OLDer version and @TAOW had the previous version.
Thanks for the video! Just changed the PLA filament yesterday and my prints are pretty bad. The spiral vase cube is a great idea! I will try to find the right settings for this filament :)
Great advice! It may be a good idea to record a profile for each brand of ABS on my shelves because it looks like fine tuning this way would reveal minor differences in their blends.
Excellent video, very helpful, I'm about to buy a Prusa i3 kit to build from eBay, would you have any advise for me? I understand that the acrylic kits are not so good as they can warp with the heat.
What kind of surface is your print bed? I want to say aluminum but can't tell... Also, awesome review. I just got a smoothie 5x and I'm trying to get as much awesome out of it as I can. Up until now I've only done the 100 or 150 mm extrusion test.
Good idea for finding settings. Anthony over at The Hot End did a similar video using Simplify3D. Personally, I would find the perfect temperature before finding the extrusion multiplier, but that's just my opinion.
Someone probably already pointed this out but I think you need at least a couple of layers to see how they interact. Don't think that just one later is representative of a typical print. Good ideas!
you mean all the yoda heads were printed with the same machine? and the results vary that much?! wow I'm saving on a 3D printer right now and this is one of the things I need to learn
Hello Artof, Is this printer accurate enough to make gauges, such as plate gauge? Or how about measuring tools? Or how about a obelisk or two with opening parts that could hold items? If this is a bit too basic, then could it manage to print a gyroscope? I realise that these suggestions aren't in keeping with your weapons theme but you could at lest use the rejects as targets! Of course you could make scabbards for your knives too. I imagine that one day all of this will lead to some "master-projects" where you use each of your workshop machines to make components that assemble into something amazing!
Very Nice... Have you tried using ABS juice to adhere to your print bed. I have found after 3 years of printing this works the best for me. The print sticks to the bed well and easy to remove. I have found printing planetary gears are a good measure of your printer. Another good project but a very involved one is the Imoov droid robot. A good place to get advice on your printer is 3D hubs printing community. Good luck with your printer enjoy.
The video was too fast for me and what I really would have liked is a copy of all of the specs you added as maybe a link. I tried to install Cura in 3 computers and after 8 installs I got one to work. I am not sure how you change the temperature or what plugin you used. The print was a total mess but I appreciate the effort and the ideas!
I'm planning on making an object that has various angles and curves to test settings. Might be overkill, but I have OCD, so I don't mind. I currently just look up recommended settings and write it on a sticker on each spool.
Greetings. I would like to know that it is exactly the dimensional accuracy +/- 0.05 mm - +/- 0.02 mm. Also know if this value in filament reels are reflected in the quality or finish of the final print. Thanks for the help.
Hey thanks for sharing. Just curious about 7:05. Do you think the better layer fusion could be caused by the heated print bed? Maybe should try to flip the temperature profiles and see if you get a better adhesion at the top.
Very good! Please could you do more videos like this - perhaps a little more slowly to allows time for these excellent ideas to settle into my rather slower moving brain😊❗️
Excellent info in this video. You really helped me nail the temperature for my PLA in a quick, cheap and easy way. I actually did the temperature test first which may be why when I tried to vary the flow rate from 107-97% there was almost no difference. While this was fairly quick, it isn't something I want to do with 30 different spools. Do you think different colors of the same brand are going to use the same settings?
Great tip. But theoretically, there might be something wrong with this approach. You had to choose a temperature ad-hoc to do the flow-rate test. If you started with a different temperature, might you have found a different (better?) optimal flow-rate?
Thanks, just in time! I didn't know this is what the plugin does. I get good quality on low speeds, at higher speeds there are oscillations. Maybe I need to change the head like you did. I am torn between leaving it as is, or improving it some (bowden head like you did, some other mods), or even building a completely new printer from much better industrial components.
If you add 2 9mm Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core on each axis and the main power cable you will greatly reduce noise and ringing. Prints will come out smoother. Also adding 1 32x3 mm round n52 magnet completes for perfect walls.
8 лет назад
Hi, thanks for your video. How do you decide on the printing temperature when doing the flowrate test? These are quite connected to each other I would say.
you should try printing in different filaments. i know its not very original but if you where to use different filaments and integrate them into other projects then that would be cool. an example of this would be using wood filament to print a low strength trigger mechanism that could have more pieces in it. it wouldn't be able to withstand a lot of force but would be a great example of this integration. or flexible fighting knives so they are totally safe and have bendy bevels.
One thing you might want to try, is putting a piece of paper on the base. It makes it insanely easier to pull off the finished project. Naturally, you want it to be taped flat and such. I know I've printed a few things that I would have never gotten off without snapping if I didn't have the paper.
Thanks, I will definitely try this out on my Printrbot Simple Metal, but I think my current settings are alright, my only problem is my warped print bed (which seems to be slightly bowl shaped) and cooling. How can you only cool the print from te right side and still have the print look good in the end? My prints usually warp up much more on the right side...
+CookieCraftMedia I'm guessing it's a thin aluminum plate? that generally warps to hell. Are you getting bad adhesion? I'm surprised if you aren't. Run down to lowes or home depot and have them cut you some glass to put on top. Stuff they sell is usually 2.5MM which is what I am currently using but if you can find 3mm that would be better. Could also use a custom cut mirror but not if you have a auto leveler. Mirror was thicker but I plan on adding a auto level. Be prepared to sand the edges with a sanding block tho.
+sanityfalling That seems like a good idea. Will I need to add tape on the glass then? I believe if the glass is thin enough the auto leveling sensor (which detects metal) should still go off I hope. I'm not sure how I will attach the glass, but probably with these black book clips. I'll try it, if it doesn't I'm going to upgrade to a heated bigger bed which unfortunately costs twice as much for me because of the taxes and shipping
CookieCraftMedia Depends on what your printing, glass is flat so it's easy to level. Leaves a very nice surface too, I have seen people use glass and leveling sensors, so I am guessing so. Yea binder clips work, Sound they make on glass might worry you, but they have been working fine for me. Set your hot end so a piece of paper drags a little when you pull it(push the bed springs down a little to get it back under to test at various places). Also remember when changing one edge to check all over again because it can throw off the other measurements. If you spend a little more for a larger sheet of glass(You pay for a sheet and they cut it so see if if two will fit in there.). Might want to bring a representation of the size you want since it will be a weird size from MM to Inches. I lost a good half inch from the guy eyeing it even tho I converted it. I recommend what they call a "painters tool" thicker than a putty knife and has a chisel edge. Like I said be sure to sand the edges of the glass because you will have to handle it to pop/pry your prints off. I slipped at least once and would have had a real nasty cut if I had not sanded it. For PLA some people use glue stick/diluted pva glue/blue tape/hairspray. Blue tape, you have to pry the parts off, I don't mind honestly that not sticking stuff is frustrating. You can get pla to stick directly to glass but it's tricky, bed temp wise and hot end needs to be hotter on the first layer. Would probably work better with etched glass but would need nasty chemicals or a sandblaster. ABS you will have to make "ABS Juice" aka dissolving some of the abs you are using(don't mix colors) into some acetone and brushing that on(acid brush, or throwaway one) while the bed is hot(under acetones boiling point 56c so under that so you can get it to spread nicely, or it flashes off). A thin coating is all you need. ABS sticks to ABS really well, I use the scraper and a very light mallet to kind of tap my way under. ABS has other problems to worry about tho, a heated bed without a enclosure will only go up to ~92C(depends on room temp) reliably and reasonably. Works fine for small prints, on larger ones you can run into trouble with layer adhesion/warping. All in all be mindful of what you are printing also, Something very small might need a brim or even a raft. Test with something you know will work. Good Luck!
+sanityfalling Hmm yeah. The build plate on my Printrbot hasn't got any adjustable screws, it's just fixed to the rods. Instead the metal detector measures the height on every corner of the bed, and it prints slightly rotated hen to level it out. The problem is that the bed is slightly bowl shaped, and the sensor is only measuring at the corners, not at other points, so I guess a glass plate could help really well!
Hi, I have a home made 3d printer. I am currently facing issue with z motor position after each layer. My z motors are not moving up as they should and it end-up crashing into previous layer. i am using merlin 2.0 firmware, slic3r for gcodes and pronterface for printing. Kindly advice
Hey, a bit off of what you're doing but it's still plastic. You should try out polymorph which is a mouldable plastic that you could use for your projects such as handles. Thanks
You mind sharing the G-Code for that? I don't think you have to redo a new G-code every time you do this test? :) I have a 0,35mm nozzle btw, will your code work? :)
Would you be able to print a T800 Skull? I would like to know what temps you are able to achieve with that. I was using a M3D but that just massacres the prints. I have since switched to a Reprap.
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is a MUST for those who are new to 3D printing - it will help understand different brands and materials and the effects of temperature, speed ect.
I for one was glad you kept it fast paced. You spoke clear and without extra filler. This is how I like my tutorials. Nice editing as well.
I cant thank you enough Taow!. This is so logical & easy. Its helped me a lot. For those of you who are using a newer version of Cura, the feature is still built in & is SO EASY to use. It can be found at the top menu bar under Extensions/Post Processing/Modify G-Code. Just select "Add a Script" button & then select the "ChangeatZ" option. I selected this option 11 times and set each one to give me 11 flow tests starting from 105% down to 95%. I'm printing it now & can clearly see what setting I can change to make a huge difference to my prints. It literally only takes 5 mins to set the info (No coding involved - just tick boxes or type in the flow rate percentage you want to test. Just going back to Cura now to do exactly the same for my temperature test.
Great video. I wish I could afford one, but not in my budget @ this time. U just keep on doing what u love doing. U have great skills son. And ur going to do a lot with ur tallants & ur still young.
I'm just blowed away with all u know & can do. Every time I watch ur videos on RUclips, I learn something new, & I'm 50 yrs old body wise, but 20 yrs old in spirit. Thank u for that. I truly mean it also. U have a great day or night. Looking forward to ur next video. Thanks for sharing & tell ur Mum & Dad Thank you for letting u share them with us. Best regards, Chris
Very efficient method to find out best settings :)
Thanks!
This is crazy! Make these changes and it went from 21 hours at 50mm/s down 7 hours @ 30 mm/s !!! Amazing help! Thank you! I have an i3 Mega so this has been very helpful. This print is 196 mm tall and that is with 10 percent infill and a raft! WOW!!
Hi, Thanks for the video. My prints have been hit and miss lately, and you've given me some good ideas for finding the right settings for my printer and filament. Many thanks.
This is by far the best video I have seen on the subject thanks!
Thanks! Helped me a lot with finding the right settings. I've got nearly perfect prints now!!
i did not understand why my prints were shitty until i saw this video. Im glad i watched it.
Thanks Taow, you're a star! I've just started printing with a Reprap/Prusa hybrid I was given by a friend of a friend and didn't know which way to turn!
Straightforward and informative. Very nice.
actually, you want to find the right temperature BEFORE the right extrusion-multiplier. That's crucial, because a change in temperature does affect the amount of extruded material.
Dumb question, but what if my flow rate that I try the temperature test is jacked? Seems like multiple iterations might be needed.
Would this work better?
Iteration1: Set flow rate, vary temp
Iteration2: Set temp, vary flow rate
Iteration3: Set flow rate, vary temp
Or is there a better way?
Mark Johnsen just remember that you are not the first person to 3D print. No need to reinvent the wheel. Look up what settings other people use and use that as a starting point. It’s likely your ideal settings will be relatively close to what others use. We all stand on the shoulders of giants you know!
Laymen here, but wouldn't it be offset either way? Perhaps he could find another temp that worked with another extrusion, but does it matter terribly which one he chooses first? In either case he gets the best look on both prints.
@@HobbySauce dude, that was 1y ago
@@ServentofTheMostMerciful yep, and with the passing of a year all points are null and void right? People definitely dont watch videos after their original date and have questions when they view them...
Nice one, thanks man! I always hated printing these temp towers and you really made my day with this approach!
Honestly, I thought he was speaking at a great speed. lol. That's how fast my brain works and I actually really liked this video. It was quick and informative. Gives me some more to work with when I use my printer.
I thought the narration was excellent. You gave just the information that was needed and not the waffle most people add. All we have to do is just watch it few times, which is the best way to learn something. Well done.
Gotta say, I absolutely agree. I find all the verbose filler that most youtubers add to be quite frustrating.
most helpful video ive seen yet today
@TAOW, love the speed of the video and direct and to the point. Thanks for the posting and good info!
This was helpful w/ a newer version of CURA 3.x community.ultimaker.com/topic/21317-cura-31-change-at-height/
Mind you, the 15.x version is the OLDer version and @TAOW had the previous version.
I know this video is 3 years old now but I still found it helpful thank you
This is really nice, I didn't realize there was a way to tweak settings mid-print for calibration! I need to play with this a bit more.
Well presented, with great advice. Thank you!
Nice video! Good, quick and cheap method of testing your filaments.
Wow I've been printing for a couple years now and I guess I've been doing it the hard way. Nice tips
Thanks for the video! Just changed the PLA filament yesterday and my prints are pretty bad. The spiral vase cube is a great idea! I will try to find the right settings for this filament :)
thank you. i havent seen any good video on how to tune settings but this will really help when i do the same thing in simplify3d.
Thanks man! Models look amazing now! still some issues around be I'm figuring things out
Super great video. Very helpful
Good Cura tutorial... I didn't know it could do all that. Thanks.
your the smartest kid ever, have you ever thought of a mini aquaponic system,? great video man
Thank you for the nice test and video!
Thanks for this, was very useful. I was battling to get Verbatim PLA to print properly until now...
Thank you for this video, I am going to try it out.
Thanks for this great tutorial! This is helping out a lot!
Sweet video! Thanks!
Great advice! It may be a good idea to record a profile for each brand of ABS on my shelves because it looks like fine tuning this way would reveal minor differences in their blends.
thank you so much
Really nice method! Thank you
Informative video!
thanks for this..... am about to get my first printer so this is a lot of help
Excellent video, very helpful, I'm about to buy a Prusa i3 kit to build from eBay, would you have any advise for me? I understand that the acrylic kits are not so good as they can warp with the heat.
Great video! I just wanted to say congrats on your 3D printer again
dude,I've been watching your channel for a long time,keep up the good work.I've seen your growth in skills,weapons and ideas.
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you for making this vid!
Can u tell me which printer u use, seems like it works rly well. also, can u print a fallout power armor?
great vid thank-you so much i've been looking for help like this
What kind of surface is your print bed? I want to say aluminum but can't tell...
Also, awesome review. I just got a smoothie 5x and I'm trying to get as much awesome out of it as I can. Up until now I've only done the 100 or 150 mm extrusion test.
Good idea for finding settings. Anthony over at The Hot End did a similar video using Simplify3D. Personally, I would find the perfect temperature before finding the extrusion multiplier, but that's just my opinion.
Super useful tips. Would love to see what you make with a FormBox.
Good tips, thanks.
Thank you for the information.
Very good video! thanks for the help!
Someone probably already pointed this out but I think you need at least a couple of layers to see how they interact. Don't think that just one later is representative of a typical print. Good ideas!
Very helpful, if for nothing else than learning about TweakAtZ, to help adjust the flow rate. Thank you.
hi I like your work on lathe where did you learn to use do use any books to follow thanks
Excellent video.
you mean all the yoda heads were printed with the same machine? and the results vary that much?! wow
I'm saving on a 3D printer right now and this is one of the things I need to learn
This video should come stock with any 3D printer that one can purchase
Hello Artof,
Is this printer accurate enough to make gauges, such as plate gauge? Or how about measuring tools? Or how about a obelisk or two with opening parts that could hold items?
If this is a bit too basic, then could it manage to print a gyroscope?
I realise that these suggestions aren't in keeping with your weapons theme but you could at lest use the rejects as targets!
Of course you could make scabbards for your knives too.
I imagine that one day all of this will lead to some "master-projects" where you use each of your workshop machines to make components that assemble into something amazing!
Very Nice... Have you tried using ABS juice to adhere to your print bed. I have found after 3 years of printing this works the best for me. The print sticks to the bed well and easy to remove. I have found printing planetary gears are a good measure of your printer. Another good project but a very involved one is the Imoov droid robot. A good place to get advice on your printer is 3D hubs printing community. Good luck with your printer enjoy.
Enjoy the video.
What do you want me to 3d print next (not a gun)?
a top
I live in the uk and u should print a knife
A mini 3-d printer *dosent have to work
you should 3d print a slingshot next there is one by jorge sprave avaliable
+The Art of Weapons a gun
Hi,
I think this is a great way to check some various values of the D printing.
The video was too fast for me and what I really would have liked is a copy of all of the specs you added as maybe a link. I tried to install Cura in 3 computers and after 8 installs I got one to work. I am not sure how you change the temperature or what plugin you used. The print was a total mess but I appreciate the effort and the ideas!
Try baking your ABS filament in the oven for a bit. Should remove any moisture and may help with your layer adhesion.
I'm planning on making an object that has various angles and curves to test settings. Might be overkill, but I have OCD, so I don't mind. I currently just look up recommended settings and write it on a sticker on each spool.
AWSOME!!!! THANK YOU!!!
#TAOW Bro what type(material) is ur printers bed ?
and u don't use tape it seems and without using tape will it be perfect?
Greetings.
I would like to know that it is exactly the dimensional accuracy +/- 0.05 mm - +/- 0.02 mm.
Also know if this value in filament reels are reflected in the quality or finish of the final print.
Thanks for the help.
i do the sime kind of tests but only for temp. ill see if i can improve my prints even more testing flow the same way.
which application are you using in this video to design 3d objects?
Hey thanks for sharing. Just curious about 7:05. Do you think the better layer fusion could be caused by the heated print bed? Maybe should try to flip the temperature profiles and see if you get a better adhesion at the top.
man!!! you're a genious!
Hi TAOW, what speed did you use on that print? Thank You.
Great video. how about the pla test?
How old are you? You seem really young but your videos are perfect! really great work!
hi i was just wondering what software you use
Very good! Please could you do more videos like this - perhaps a little more slowly to allows time for these excellent ideas to settle into my rather slower moving brain😊❗️
Excellent info in this video. You really helped me nail the temperature for my PLA in a quick, cheap and easy way.
I actually did the temperature test first which may be why when I tried to vary the flow rate from 107-97% there was almost no difference.
While this was fairly quick, it isn't something I want to do with 30 different spools. Do you think different colors of the same brand are going to use the same settings?
Great tip. But theoretically, there might be something wrong with this approach. You had to choose a temperature ad-hoc to do the flow-rate test. If you started with a different temperature, might you have found a different (better?) optimal flow-rate?
Thanks, just in time! I didn't know this is what the plugin does.
I get good quality on low speeds, at higher speeds there are oscillations. Maybe I need to change the head like you did.
I am torn between leaving it as is, or improving it some (bowden head like you did, some other mods), or even building a completely new printer from much better industrial components.
If you add 2 9mm Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core on each axis and the main power cable you will greatly reduce noise and ringing. Prints will come out smoother. Also adding 1 32x3 mm round n52 magnet completes for perfect walls.
Hi, thanks for your video. How do you decide on the printing temperature when doing the flowrate test? These are quite connected to each other I would say.
So between the Yodas the only settings you changed were flow rate and temperature?
you should try printing in different filaments. i know its not very original but if you where to use different filaments and integrate them into other projects then that would be cool.
an example of this would be using wood filament to print a low strength trigger mechanism that could have more pieces in it. it wouldn't be able to withstand a lot of force but would be a great example of this integration. or flexible fighting knives so they are totally safe and have bendy bevels.
amazing and helpfull video. good job m8
Which printer do you use and where can i find it?
Very new to 3d printing. What temp for pla? I have a Prusa i3 and i tried a couple prints at the preset of 240 degrees and they came out ok.
One thing you might want to try, is putting a piece of paper on the base. It makes it insanely easier to pull off the finished project. Naturally, you want it to be taped flat and such. I know I've printed a few things that I would have never gotten off without snapping if I didn't have the paper.
+megamaxmax4 Glass plate with 3dlac. Once it's cooled down, the print just lifts off.
youre ABS prints all work fine without a case to keep the heat in?
Thanks, I will definitely try this out on my Printrbot Simple Metal, but I think my current settings are alright, my only problem is my warped print bed (which seems to be slightly bowl shaped) and cooling.
How can you only cool the print from te right side and still have the print look good in the end? My prints usually warp up much more on the right side...
+CookieCraftMedia I'm guessing it's a thin aluminum plate? that generally warps to hell. Are you getting bad adhesion? I'm surprised if you aren't.
Run down to lowes or home depot and have them cut you some glass to put on top. Stuff they sell is usually 2.5MM which is what I am currently using but if you can find 3mm that would be better. Could also use a custom cut mirror but not if you have a auto leveler. Mirror was thicker but I plan on adding a auto level. Be prepared to sand the edges with a sanding block tho.
+sanityfalling That seems like a good idea. Will I need to add tape on the glass then? I believe if the glass is thin enough the auto leveling sensor (which detects metal) should still go off I hope. I'm not sure how I will attach the glass, but probably with these black book clips.
I'll try it, if it doesn't I'm going to upgrade to a heated bigger bed which unfortunately costs twice as much for me because of the taxes and shipping
CookieCraftMedia Depends on what your printing, glass is flat so it's easy to level. Leaves a very nice surface too,
I have seen people use glass and leveling sensors, so I am guessing so.
Yea binder clips work, Sound they make on glass might worry you, but they have been working fine for me.
Set your hot end so a piece of paper drags a little when you pull it(push the bed springs down a little to get it back under to test at various places). Also remember when changing one edge to check all over again because it can throw off the other measurements.
If you spend a little more for a larger sheet of glass(You pay for a sheet and they cut it so see if if two will fit in there.). Might want to bring a representation of the size you want since it will be a weird size from MM to Inches. I lost a good half inch from the guy eyeing it even tho I converted it.
I recommend what they call a "painters tool" thicker than a putty knife and has a chisel edge. Like I said be sure to sand the edges of the glass because you will have to handle it to pop/pry your prints off. I slipped at least once and would have had a real nasty cut if I had not sanded it.
For PLA some people use glue stick/diluted pva glue/blue tape/hairspray. Blue tape, you have to pry the parts off, I don't mind honestly that not sticking stuff is frustrating.
You can get pla to stick directly to glass but it's tricky, bed temp wise and hot end needs to be hotter on the first layer. Would probably work better with etched glass but would need nasty chemicals or a sandblaster.
ABS you will have to make "ABS Juice" aka dissolving some of the abs you are using(don't mix colors) into some acetone and brushing that on(acid brush, or throwaway one) while the bed is hot(under acetones boiling point 56c so under that so you can get it to spread nicely, or it flashes off). A thin coating is all you need. ABS sticks to ABS really well, I use the scraper and a very light mallet to kind of tap my way under.
ABS has other problems to worry about tho, a heated bed without a enclosure will only go up to ~92C(depends on room temp) reliably and reasonably. Works fine for small prints, on larger ones you can run into trouble with layer adhesion/warping.
All in all be mindful of what you are printing also, Something very small might need a brim or even a raft. Test with something you know will work.
Good Luck!
+sanityfalling Hmm yeah. The build plate on my Printrbot hasn't got any adjustable screws, it's just fixed to the rods. Instead the metal detector measures the height on every corner of the bed, and it prints slightly rotated hen to level it out. The problem is that the bed is slightly bowl shaped, and the sensor is only measuring at the corners, not at other points, so I guess a glass plate could help really well!
You should do some more aluminum melting and casting.
Hi,
I have a home made 3d printer. I am currently facing issue with z motor position after each layer. My z motors are not moving up as they should and it end-up crashing into previous layer.
i am using merlin 2.0 firmware, slic3r for gcodes and pronterface for printing.
Kindly advice
how to tell am i over extruding or under?
and how to tell i need higher temp or lower temp? thanks so much for reply
I just got a clone E3d V6 for my Anet A8 and I feel like the quality went down. Mostly detail and visible layer lines. Any suggestions?
Hey, a bit off of what you're doing but it's still plastic. You should try out polymorph which is a mouldable plastic that you could use for your projects such as handles. Thanks
You mind sharing the G-Code for that?
I don't think you have to redo a new G-code every time you do this test? :)
I have a 0,35mm nozzle btw, will your code work? :)
Nice Video
you are the man
Would you be able to print a T800 Skull? I would like to know what temps you are able to achieve with that. I was using a M3D but that just massacres the prints. I have since switched to a Reprap.
Greet Video TNX
helpful video, thanks bro.