CRAFTSMAN Oil Free Air Compressor Repair / Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- You can view the writeup at www.toddfun.com...
In this video I rebuild my Craftsman 5HP 30gal model 919-165300 oil free air compressor for ~$47 USD. This is a ~12 year old compressor that could no longer get up to press and would have cost over $350 to replace.
You will need a long Torx T20 driver if you don't want to hack up your cover.
I ordered my repair kit from: www.searspartsd...
You can also get most rebuild kits on eBay from NOS people have purchased and warehoused. Just search your model and you'll find most.
This is a link my compressor: www.searspartsd...
You can find another good Craftsman air compressor rebuild video of a smaller model here: • Craftsman oil-less air...
Disclaimer:
Please use & apply this information solely at your own risk.
I do not guarantee against injury, damage, or loss caused by your unauthorized modifications.
Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility and to be used at the discretion of the end user/viewer and not ToddFun (Todd Harrison).
ToddFun (Todd Harrison) assumes no liability for injury or property damage incurred as a result of the presentation of this information contained in this here video or any of the other ToddFun (Todd Harrison) videos.
ToddFun (Todd Harrison) recommends safe practices including the use of personal protective equipment such as eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, guards, shields, and respiratory protective devices when working on projects and or with tools seen or implied in this video.
Due to factors beyond the control of ToddFun (Todd Harrison), no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
I can confirm the Craftsman T style handle torx (T20) is definitely long enough! I also didn't remove either end of the line but was careful not to bend it too much when removing the head. Thanks for the video.
Appreciate your efforts to video record the rebuild, nice job. I didn't see you mention the size of the Torx screws, and it was a shame you sawed the cowlings apart the way you did.
The cowling uses T-20 torx. I took a T-20 torx tip, mounted it in the extension that came with the set and that fits into a 1/4" socket. I used a 1/4 ratchet with a long , around 6", extension and taped this extension together with the short extension that came in my screw tips kit. It fit just fine inside the tunnel and reached the screw with no problem. It took me less than five minutes to assemble the tool, try three torx tips until I found the one that fit, the T-20, and then remove the three T-20 torx screws, two short with small O-ring on each of them and one longer screw in the front and did not have to destroy the cowling covers. Didn't need much patience, just work with what I had.
Yeppers i make tools to make stuff work all the time .. some folks just u know cant figure stuff out. Put a ext on a 1/4 male screw socke driver ? Cant always remember the name they give stuff my craftsman cowling has surface mound 8mm bolts.
He should drill into the tank that way he will never ovetload the tank😂2
Get urself some channel locks & vise grips for back up
I had that same problem with the torx screws, but I used a 10" long bit driver that fits in a drill and takes 1/4" bits. Then after I got the screws out and did my repairs, I replaced them with PHILLIPS screws!
Great Video!
Decent video...helpful. I chose to not cut the cover up, but replace the screws with Philips head for the next guy! I also took the baffles out , gave them a good cleaning, & a light smear of gun oil before reassembling. Did the same on the new piston ring. One thing I did notice worth mentioning. The inside of my chamber & cylinder was nastie and, at least some of the gunk in there was the old foam air filter that had dried out and got sucked into the intake. (pieces of it were embedded into the cylinder wall). I made a new filter from a scotch-brite sanding pad...again applying a thin coating of gun oil. Put it all back together and in just over 2 minutes had 120lb of pressure. Well worth the effort and cost of the re-build kit!
Thanks a million. I've got a Craftsman compressor that has seen daily use for 16+ years and I ALMOST took it to the scrap yard to replace with something else. Now not only do I not have to, I have an inexpensive project to keep me busy during these times. Appreciate this!!
Glad to help
K@@ToddFun
have a guy local advertising a 25 gallon with a new kit he didnt have time to put in for 60.00 so i am giving it a shot at buying. Thank you for making this and taking your time out to explain the operation!
This vid is a great help. My tank would not fill past 30psi. I took out the sleeve and piston and can literally see daylight past the piston seal. Have a new kit on order including the valve plate. Everything will be new when I'm done!
Good. Glad to hear it is working out for you.
What an excellent tutorial. I own the same compressor, and to tell you the truth I'm hoping to upgrade for better cfm to run air sanders and high output devices. Mine won't die, I've had it for nearly two decades and its going strong. These craftsman compressors were really well designed and manufactured. I wish they didn't have a 1/4" bottleneck in the line, though I suppose other things would fail if that problem were solved. I can't believe my tank hasn't rusted out yet.
Thanks for the kind comment and so glad you're compress is still running. Love your videos too, it's been a while since I have hear from you however. Don't be a stranger ;)
Lots of good information. I liked the fact that you chose to not replace a perfectly good lower bearing. The world is full of parts changers, and it's true if you throw enough parts at any broken equipment it will eventually be fixed. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Well, I found the problem. One of the little fan blades had broken off and got wedged through that compres ring/seal on the edge of the piston. The good news is that the actual piston cylinder looked remarkably clean. Thanks again for all the help! I'm more of a computer geek who would have never taken the initiative to repair this if it were not for your video.
Thanks for making this video. Now I have a idea as to how these things work. Yesterday I flipped the compressor on. And it ran for 30 min or so and only got up to like 30 lbs. So after watching this I tore it apart. And the little fins were rusted that compress the air. Almost like part of them were gone. New parts $70. It not cost effective. Just so happened I had a old junk compressor. It had a bad power switch. So I spent last night tearing them apart and by this morning I have a compressor that runs about 5 min. And gets up to 100 lbs of air pressure. Thank you for posting.
It does look a little funny but it works.
***** Good to know and glad I could help.
If so' I'm really happy to learn that it's not difficult to rebuild one' Thank you for teaching us.
You helped me fix a free 20Gal! Owner said it didn’t work, and I watched your video. You’re the Sugar Honey Ice Tea!!
Great video. I almost junked my compressor, but after watching your video I'm keeping it. and I like your presentation style. Keep up the good work!
Just came across this old video. Thank you for the upload. From a fellow Arizonan.
Great, great video! Eloped me tremendously. Thank you.
The one item I will contribute is that the Torx screws holding the cover on are T15s. I jammed my screwdriver into the hole and with the handle about a 1/4 inch into the hole, I was able to engage the screws and back them out without cutting the plastic. A telescoping magnet got them out and all is well.
Thanks much. I'm compressing air again.
OBTW: The cover is important to air flow ...without it the inlet pipe and head get very hot in short order. Besides being a burn hazard, I would think the additional heat build up at the head will not promote long life for the graphite ring in the compression chamber. Also Amazon has the parts cheaper than sears ...(who may no longer even have the rebuild kit.) Sears does not sell the regulator valve any longer for this and some of the replacement ones claiming to be "4 port" actually only read regulated pressure at both gauges. If you want both you will have to do a little extra plumbing. Harbor Freight has a decent regulator for around $14 so don't spent $60 on a 4 port that is really a 3 port!
you did a very good job at explaining step by step procedure. I think you did a better job than commercial videos where on RUclips. I have a similar style air compressor but with my issue it smells like burnt rubber when recharging tank. .
I Made a Torix Bit Extension by WELDNG the Tups of Two Long 5/16 Socket Heads Cap Screws together with the 1/4 Hex Out Side to Outside
I reduced the Head on ONE for the Torix BIT and Use a Allen Wrench on the Other to Drive the Screw
I was able to to use a 7/64 Bondhus ball end driver to remove the shroud bolts. Saved me the hassle of removing the shroud. Thanks for the video!
Good to know and thanks!
Sir, your video still serves after 8 years. My compressor's Fan blade exploded and I couldn't see or find any socket size to fit those housing screws. In your video you said they were torx head. I ran back outside and bingo! I used a 1/4" deep socket for the bit and a 1/4" driver. No problems after that. I did however, scratch the torx size into the plastic housing for my future reference. I have a new fan blade ordered and hope to be back up and running soon. Thank you for the vid!
Thanks for the well done video. Got one of these this morning I'll need to go through, and have a suggestion on the long torx. Torx and hex are basically interchangeable if you use the proper size, and 12" hex wrenches are fairly easy to find. (The original 9"/10" screen Macintoshs had the same challenge, solved the same way.)
Charles Hawley Thanks for the tip!
Glad to see this. Was going to disassemble one to see why it is not coming on.
I figured it must be a long toro bit.
Will try a hex in and extension.
Love your video really informative. Bought 1 used like yesterday. I now have an idea of how it looks internally. It works good but I may pull it apart and clean
Nice repair video. You are the first one I encounter to mention the various torc values. You mentioned that the piston should stay straight, but in operation it will tumble also to the left and the right due go the fact that piston and its rod are one part and does not contain an extra bearing as a car or motor engine do in combination with exentric on the crankshaft.
Due to the wobble and the lack of lubrication the ring on the piston will have extra wear and tear.
Great video rebuilt mine yesterday. My start capacitor went bad so while i had the motor off to replace the start capacitor I figured might as well do a rebuild. Amazing how much faster the compressor shuts off after building up pressure in half the time it use to
Just looked up "How to Repair One" and your was the first one I watch, nice job, Thanks!
Glad I could help!
I did the piston ring and gaskets for the head and I thought sure that would fix it because it had no resistance when moving up and down in the cylinder but it still doesn't build up over about 40 psi. I didn't check the reed valves so I will check all that next. Mine is a Craftsman 30 gal 919.167320 but the motor looks the same as mine.The head piston and everything. I have no leaks anywhere so maybe it is the reed valves. Thanks for the video, it is a great help.
Todd, you're the man! My 18 year old compressor, basically the same unit as in your video, has developed some serious blow-by. I didn't stop to think Sears would see a rebuild kit. I'm always looking for a project, so I'll happily spend $50 to get the kit vs. spending $400 for a new compressor. Thanks for taking the time to post this video.
MrWastingmytime59 You're welcome. Glad to help.
Pretty nice fix. BTW, I believe they're called "reed" valves like the reeds by a pond or the reed used in the mouth piece of a wood wind instrument such as a clarinet or saxaphone.
Great video sir! I was going to scrap mine, had no idea I could rebuild it, thank you!
Thanks for the clear and concise instructions on how to rebuild the compressor. I have the same one that I purchased from my neighbor a few years back. The motor is still strong so, I will be doing the same thing to mine. Thanks again for the information. Cheers!
Glad it helped
Great do-it-yourself Video, Todd. And as a famous President once said, which keeps people from working on things is: "The only thing we have to Fear is Fear itself." And with great video's like this, You have eleminated the FEAR part. And Yes, AZ is hot, saw 124 degress under our shaded carport yesterday. Thanks again for a great "how to" Video.
Very well presented, this is a credit to yo. I bought my first compressor (Fiac made ine italy) last year and I accidently knocked it over a few days ago. I cracked the casting where the plastic cover screws on and shore off alot of blades from the fan. without knowing the fan was wrecked I kept running the compressor & a few hrs later I realised why the pressur was slow to build. it overheated. Hopefully I will be able to salvage it. Thanks for the good demo
Todd, thanks for posting this video and the links.
I have one of these compressors with an up-right tank which still in good shape, but it probably won't hurt to get a repair kit before they become unavailable, since Sears is slowly going out of business.
One tip I l like to suggest to compressor users is, to keep the pressure around 100 pounds.
Hardly any shop tools operate over 90 pounds, and unless one needs more pressure, which may happen occasionally, then it can be cranked up to the desired pressure without exceeding the compressor's capacity, of course. This will prolong its life.
Thank you again.
The 650 kit is used by 50 brands at least. apparently Devilbiss even uses the same kit number.
Very thorough and informative. Thank You for taking the time to post this video. Going to rebuild mine as soon as i get the kit.
Thanks for the video! I thought that the process would be way more complex!!! My compressor is 18 years old and I wanted to have it rebuilt 7 years ago, but life took over and
i put it off. I'm ordering the parts today with confidence that I can do it myself. Thanks a million!!!
I have a couple reed valve compressors for portable use, its a good idea to get these replacement parts ahead of time. the big shop compressor is made from a refrigerant head out of a produce warehouse from the '50s. its on a boiler tank and connected to 100gal propane tanks in the corners behind the doors and in the rafters above the bays and bench, plumbed with commercial overhead door torsion spring tubing ( all the unloader valves were a little expensive, dontcha love getting around them payments lol. nice job, found the fan I needed by watching your video. Thanks
I don't remember when I bought mine, I'm thinking 1995 or 1996 and I've never done any maintenance on it at all - just turn it on and use it. I always incorrectly assumed that it was "maintenance free." By some miracle mine is still actually working, but I plan on taking it apart and giving it a good once over and maybe even do the "fix" you've done here
Use a T-20 Torx screwdriver to get the 3 screws off. Thanks for the detailed video!
HI Todd. Thanks for a well done explanation on how to rebuild the compressor. I have one exactly like yours. It's a 5.5 30 gal one but I assume it's just like yours. I was considering throwing my compressor away because it's making a funny vibration noise and takes a long time to build up the pressure. I am going to rebuild mine thanks to your demonstration and your words of encouragement!
Glad it helped
Just aqquired one myself 919.152921.
Manufacture date of 6-23-94.
Those air/filter muffler designs are a pain as the one I had was broken off.
Had to pull the head to repair it.
I bought a set of extra long torx kit just for this.
Great video! I didn't know a rebuild was this easy and cheap.
It looks like the plastic part you cut off and put on top of the fan would let a lot of air through, so I'd be worried that it blows a lot of air up and out, instead of over the compressor head.
I just did this on mine tonight. Same compressor except the next size larger tank. It was taking nearly 4 minutes to go from empty to cutoff pressure. Now it’s taking 5 seconds longer! I can’t imagine what I did wrong. Used new seals on the tube, etc.
hello Todd Harrison I too have the same one and I started to notice that it wouldn't build anymore so did a search and stumble on to your video. so glad I did now I'm able to fix it and not buy another one had this one going on 4 yrs now and its been good to me. also I do understand about being hot because I also live in Az its a little harder to work especially if no A/c even tho I'm from California I don't think i can get use to the heat but im sure I'll manage. I liked the comment from B he said that these had got on fire before being they were oiless I never had the plastic cover on mine this hole time super glad that I haven't had any major problems like that. Well your video was very helpful and thanks for the tips.
Very glad you found it helpful! Thanks.
Great Video sir. Thank you so much for posting it. I repaired mine compressor using your instruction. Thanks again.
great video. My craftsman just died, after 25 years, and this video really helped with what to do.
Glad to have helped!
You are amazing! Very detailed, clear description of rebuild. Thank you! Fellow Arizonian.
Just a heads up.
Many times you can use a hex key/Allen wrench, instead of a Torx, as long as it's not too tight.
Thanks for the video.
Good on you! I have a Coleman compressor with the same affliction. It looks very similar to that model on the inside, but the kit was closer to $100. I got the parts kit about a year ago and have yet to do the rebuild. Thanks for pushing it back on to my to-do list!
Todd that is a great video of the replacement of the KK-4835 Complete Connecting Rod Kit and yes you can get just the K-0650 Top End Rebuild Kit.
does that come with a new piston ring seal?
The shroud is for more than looking pretty. It directs the cooling air through the fins in the cylinder head. Mine is a slightly different model but has the same deep reach and taper issues. I used a long Snap-On screwdriver with a T-20 bit to loosed the screws in the back. It's a hair thinner than my other long screwdriver that takes interchangeable bits. The screws for the regulator shroud took a T-15. I had to lubricate the shank of the screwdriver to get to those screws as it was a very tight fit but I didn't damage the covers.
Good video! Gonna rebuild my later this year. Just picked mine up at a garage sale and am gonna monitor how long it takes to fill up first.
Good luck. Let me know how it works.
I really do appreciate you making this video I bought a used compressor and it takes a long time just to get to 40 psi now I know why..Im gonna rebuild mine to
great video, I just bought a use one of these, now I know how to repair it.
Great. Hope it works out. Mine is still working great 4 years after this repair.
Very interesting.
I'm pretty sure your cylinder is scored that bad because it's not protected under by a case.
The cooling fan blow directly dust under the piston where abrasion is doing its job on the cylinder wall.
lubed compressors do not have this problem.
Maybe you can reduce wear with a good air filter (a real one made of paper like on cars)
I'm sure you're right about the dirty air under the piston skirt but that is how these operate. They last about 10 years+ so no completes. Just have to rebuild them 2 or 3 times during their lifetime. I wish I could afford a nice big oiled twine 240v compressor but this one is very portable and only a 1/4 of the price. I did convert the intack to a replaceable can filter with a proper pleated paper filter.
michaelovitch thats a great observation!
libertyforamericanow
Thank you.
I'm pretty sure the guys who designed it know that too...
They need to sell new ones sometimes : )
Good job on the presentation. I would have paid the twelve dollars for a set of HF T handle Torx and saved your cowling. As of October 2020 Sears Direct is out of most parts to repair these compressors. Thanks for the video!
Buy Devilbiss (sp?) and Porter kits from Amazon. They were all made by the same folks.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you for making this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
When I overhaul oil less compressors I like to use in the cylinder sleeve and cylinder seal a thin film of graphite infused grease. I noticed it helps in increasing life for both surfaces or Teflon grease dose the job too.
You could always use some sort of a lubricant when fitting tight spots..piston/liner..bearing/rod...will avoid future ingress damage
I used an impact torx bit and an impact 6” extension and with my Dewalt impact driver, I was able to remove the bolts.
Best to get all your spare parts now. It doesn’t look like Sears will be around much longer although i think many of the compressor parts from other companies/brands. Fit each other very often everyone used Campbell Housefeild pumps and pistons I believe were the go to ? Of course Sears rebranded most of what they sold years ago a salesman gave me their code that was simply the first two numbers of the serial number was the manufacturer of that power tool The guy actually gave me the cheat sheet the salesmen used ! At the time i was looking at a Craftsman mitre saw that was made by Delta but had a different colored plastic housing on it than Delta branded tools that was back in the late 80s early 90s when I started out in the woodworking industry and was outfitting my shop and tool collection things may have changed over the years as i pretty much stopped shopping at the stores due to terrible service and way too often not in inventory as many times the sales staff wold tell me to use Sears .com even that i was in the store with money in my pocket to buy a specific item ? Ironically using their online Application. Was also horrible as most of the times the items were shipped incorrectly including many tools i did not order or pay for ? I used to order tools for a crew of men and very often the freebies would go in my personal tool collection or my sons ? You are correct on watching for that compressor for free and fixing it easily I’m enjoying your videos and did sub like and will share when i can as a supporter of your channel
Thanks for the story and the sub!
Very nice video, I rebuilt mine a few years back and once again time to rebuild, cant get over 60 psi, so thanks for the refresh course
Thanks for the upload. Very informative. Good hack with the jigsaw and rivets.
Thanks dude!!! Fix mine because of you
So glad to help.
Todd,....thank you so much for making this video,...it,and your entire explanation of the repair is EXCELLENT.
Carlos Perez you're welcome. Glad to help. Not sure how that helps you with your music background but I guess you needed to repair an old air compressor for some reason or another.
hahaha,.yes Todd,..I do know how to get my hands dirty,...thanks again.
Thanks for posting. I have the same compressor in an upright. Now I will know what to do when the time comes .. Good job !!
phillip hall And thank you for watching. If you use the compressor a lot it will wear out and yes they are very repairable. Well, at least until Sears stopped selling repair kits, which that day is coming I'm sure.
these have been really good compressors for me. just homeowner use, but rebuilt about 2 cars on one and lots of weekend projects and 2 cars on the other.
My kit had a, index mark on the top flange of the cylinder sleeve. It was to point towards the motor. Once the piston and rod assembly are together, simply rotate to the correct position if you has a little line on the top flange.
KB
I followed the link you put on here and it was a dead end. They don't sell those kits for that low also.
Very good info, thanks for posting. I've had the same compressor for almost 10 years. Mine is still running good though. No issues yet.
osos231 Well save the links so when it starts slowing down filling you can order up the parts and get-her fixed. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video, came in very handy.
I just got a used 3HP 15 gallon Craftsman from 1995. Looks the same as yours, only slightly smaller. Took the covers off with a T20 bit on the end of a 1/4" hex bit holder, no problem. Plan to clean the sawdust off of everything. Advice? Should I lubricate the exposed ball bearing behind the plastic fan? Did you? Teflon or silicone spray? I mostly use the compressor to blow out sprinkler lines once a year. A partial solution that they're not really designed for, of course.
No, those are sealed bearings. If they seem loose or old then replace the bearings.
Tom Bosley Not sure this is the correct Tom. If so, your setting don't allow me to reply to your RUclips comments. It would be very hard to help but I wouldn't see a problem replacing both the run and start compositors if you're just replacing parts as trouble shooting. They don't cost much and it sounds like you have replaced one of the caps already. I'm sure if the compressor is mostly full the torque needed to get it going is much higher than when the tank is empty and a functional start cap would solve that problem buy provided that needed start torque for the motor to get going under load.
My favorite things about the video:
1) It was very odd to see the bottom of the piston and connecting rod "out in the open,"
2) I was very curious what the "teflon ring" looked like. I'm actually surprised they last as long as they do!
Great how to vid.I had a bluepoint compressor given ti me cause it wouldn't build pressure.Looks exactly like ur craftsman compressor.With the same problem.Thanks for sharing .God Bless.
Gladly. Let me know how your repairs work out.
Very nice video well done. I have a small 3 gallon that quit after very little use. I am wondering if I want to do even a cheap fix.
Very good video in my opinion. Thanks, I am going to do mine. I know it is a little weak. Some of the other comments are good also.
+John Roberts Thumbs UP! let me know how it goes.
Hello, Todd
Besides how talented you are..... YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY A GORGEOUS MAN!
my stepdad's rigid compressor just took the same kind of dump on him. i got tired of waiting 45 minuts for 2 gallons of air so i built my own 15 gallon gas powered oilled air compressor pump. it fills 15 gallons in 45 seconds after being used for 12 years and no re-builds. the oiled pumps are the way to go. oh,the eletric 2 galon one? yeah, it is now a shooting target :D
Good job brother. I feel your pain in the hot garage (south fl) and having to drink something to cool it off. Keep it up.
I know, right. I have to run my AC in the garage now.
Great Video! I'm in AZ too. Yeah, garage work in summer is cruel punishment.
I acquired a 15 gal craftsman compressor (from a neighbor), and they said it doesn't build pressure.
When I first looked at it, there was water and oil inside the tank.
I'm hoping the rebuild kit will fix it?
Any advice would be appreciated!
@Keith, I'm not sure how hard that would be but if you have the pressure regulator, over pressure release valve, and pressure cutoff switch installed correctly with no leaks you might get it to work.
just built my compressor, thanks so much!
Glad to help. Mine is still running strong since this video.
These oiless air compressors will eventually lose compression because the piston and the Teflon ring worn out. I am surprised that they use an oiless pump with this big motor on this sizable tank. It is an easy fix if you have the right parts and the right tools. Some where in the Sears catalog or Home Depot or Amazon, they probably have the Torx screw driver that is long enough to reach these screws for the motor casing/cover so you don't need to hack it up. Otherwise, how is Sears going to service your compressor if you bring it to them? Even with your patched up shroud, I don't think the air flow is right to keep the motor cool during the compression cycles. I'd agree it is a bummer that they uses Torx screw instead of Philips or even hex screws. If I have one of these, I'd stock up some of the spare parts for these Craftman oiless air compressors as Sears has the nasty habit of discontinuing them after a few years.
Great video, it is not a bad idea to add any kind of paste lube for pneumatic purpose on the walls of the cylinder, and install the cylinder as straight as possible for avoiding any damage to the teflon ring...
Sorry, paste lube? Is that the same as regular tube grease?
The Torx screws attaching the plastic housing covers to the pump unit are indeed down a long dark hole
(I was removing them at night and had to use my smartphone light to even see what they are), but had no
problem removing them with a Craftsman T20 screw driver with a 3 inch shaft. You just have to jamb it in
right down to the hilt (a wee bit beyond actually, but the plastic shroudbgives way just enough) and all 3
screws could be engaged and came out unscathed - as did my plastic housings!
I would much rather be working with a Torx driver than a Phillips or plain end screw driver, which -from more
than 55 years mechanical experience - are both far more likely to strip out the screw heads than the Torx
driver (then you'd really have to butcher the plastic housing to get them out)..
My problem working on this compressor, which was the reason to view your RUclips video, is than once I
removed the 4 cylinder head bolts, the cylinder head and and reed valve plate, with the cylinder top flange
sandwiched between them, remained stuck fast together and would not separate>
But once lifted clear, gave good access to the piston top plate screw, so that I could remove it and the plastic
piston ring/disc, which appears to have been the main culprit anyway.
By the way, this piston ring/disc, or Compression Ring as they call it in the Parts Manual, can indeed still be
purchased separately... and for as little as $8.50. Just search for Devilbiss and/or Porter Cable parts as well
as Craftsman, as they all still use the very same part number - DAC-308 - as per my Parts manual that came
with the compressor back in 1997! You'll surely pay less for the actual manufacturer's part than for the old
Sears/Craftsman brand name, which is no longer worth as much as it once was, way back then!
Anyway, my cylinder bore also does not look too bad, just some deposit where a small sector of the piston/
compression ring sealing circumference was turned down, thus compromising the pump air seal.
So thus far I've been reluctant to escalate force to separate the head from the reed valve plate, which from the
underside looking up the cylinder bore, reveals the reed valves are none the less for wear, considering I've been
using the Compressor since the fall of 1997!
On closer inspection of this assembly (that refuses to disassemble), I can see a thin trace of red liquid thread
locker or liquid gasket material (like the red gunk you can often see pre-applied to many of the brass NPT air
fittings). Since I have never opened up the pump unit in the 24 years since I bought it new from Sears, I can
only surmise that Sears (or rather Devilbiss, who makes this compressor for Sears) applied it on the initial
factory assembly 'of the unit to give a better air seal between the cylinder barrel top flange and the reed valve
plate that supports it in place.
If anyone has had a similar experience I'd certainly like to hear about it... and how they have dealt with it.... and
with what subsequent results after reassembly and returning the compressor to operation again.
For reference, my compressor is a Craftsman Permanently Lubricated Tank Mounted Air Compressor, Model
# 919.15294 , with a 5 HP motor and 30 Gallon tank quite identical in appearance to Todd's
Wow did not know they where that simple, Have one similar still doing good but I don't run very often. Thank You.
Great video as always; I've rebuilt several compressors that were either given to me or for family and friends (oil-less and oil filled). Your notation about the reeds was dead on I've seen compressors that refused to go higher than 40 - 50 psi and dirty/ bent reeds was the problem, one I saved for a friend that was going to throw it out.
Keep up the good work
Dan
Enjoyed it , maybe one day for my Craftsman air compressor , mines I know is thirty years old with no problems yet . Thanks
Glad to share in case you ever need it.
so instead of butchering up your outside cover for the air compressor, I also had a torque head screw driver like yours that wasn't long enough. but I decided to grind down the screw driver instead so that it easily fit into the long hole and was able to unscrew the 2 torx head screws.
Nice idea!
Great video, my neighbor gave me one of these because it just seemed to be stuck at 30PSI and she didn't want to troubleshooting the issue. I'm wondering if this can be solved by just replacing the O ring or compres ring rather than the full piston and cylinder housing. I guess I need to get mine opened up to see how the cylinder walls look.
Haha I just took mine apart before seeing you're video its such an easy fix, 5.5 hp 30 gallon $10 now gota order the parts thanks for the step by step
Good video. Covers all the questions I would have about the repair. Hopefully parts will still be available if Sears goes under.
Getting where parts for these old units are getting harder to fine. But I also notice that as this does happen with the manufactures they must auction off all the warehouse stock and then eBay'ers buy it and then keep it in the market chain for quite a long time so it might all be good so long as that stock doesn't run out.
Thank you. I will check that, I was wondering about the refill time. I am assuming that $100 is a good price for a compressor this size, although old, based on the age of other listings in the area, assuming it will not need repairs.
This happens to be the exact same scenario I am facing with my model 919152920. The play you show in the piston /cylinder is actually mostly because the cylinder is round and the cylinder mount flange is round with 2 flat surfaces 180 degrees apart not a true machined fit.I can get just the compression ring for mine for 9.00$ and I will try to fabricate a cylinder because 51$ for the kit is the cost of another used working compressor! Yes it is probably a gamble if it is also oiless .good post!
You can order that piston ring separate. It’s dac-308 and the larger circular oring would fit a dewalt compressor Valve plate like the d55146 compressor that has a larger bore. Some valve plates
Have both patterns for both orings making the plates essentially interchangeable.
Thanks
I use a 7/64" hex T-handle to get those screws out. I've replace the fan at least 5 times in 26 years.
@Hammond, make sure you can empty the tank by opening the drain and let it drain empty. Then plug it in and see if it will fill in ~3 to 5 minutes. If it can't then it will need to be rebuilt but you don't know what needs to be rebuilt so $100 might be a bit too much if you're looking at another $100 in parts maybe more.
In that case i should add a lubricator with ISO32 pneumatic oil in the air intake, Just needs to adjust few oil leaks for the piston everytime you are going to use it and that way the O ring won't wear out.
What a great video, well done!
Thanks!
I have the same exact model compressor..what is the part number for the compressor so i can buy..thanks