So, Nate. 2 years later, and- here I am sitting, watching & feeling incredibly grateful! Not only are you highly focused, right on stream & quick (thank you!) but, additionally, you use Victron equipment (mine's marine- Victron required-almost!) and explain detail (fitment, temp. ranges, max voltage). Finally, space restrictions, wire runs, proper contacts at equipment- all priceless details that PREVENT releasing the magic smoke inside the wires & charge controllers (That's my biggest worry, can't put the Genie back in the bottle once it's been freed!) Wow, I wonder how many people have been helped with you & your wife's channel? I bet it's up to tens of thousands? Free calculators, Excel spreadsheets... Thank you is certainly NOT enough.
You should thank yourself. This stuff is a bit complicated when someone like me has absolutely no knowledge to start with. I've saved your video and worked out some numbers just to follow your demo, but I know when I get ready I'm going to want someone like you to double check my numbers. This won't be for 3 years when I retire. So in the mean time I'm going to be the most informed as I can be from rooftop to floor. You have been a big help. So thank you, i appreciate you. Pattie
Great video! Just the right amount of focus, math and repetition for me to learn it. We all learn differently, and after watching countless videos from other channels this is the fellow that explains it just right for me to understand and learn.
The calculator is awesome and might really save some people a lot of headache and money from unknowingly undersizing their charge controller! Not to mention a lot of RVrs may find themselves in high altitude situations where cold weather can come during times of the year when the sun is high in the sky!
Your calculator saved me from making a grave mistake. A self-proclaimed solar nerd convinced me that his math was correct. It turns out that my amperage was WAY higher (42 amps) than I should be running. Thankfully, I had doubts. Liked and subscribed.
Higher amps then the solar charge controller is rated for is not a problem, it is just wasted as potential energy from the panels not used (no damage but it is waste of solar energy to not use it all). What is a really a problem is if your solar panels is producing more voltage (V) then the charge controller can handle...
Just completed first consultation last week I learned so much create safety in the system I have and allow more efficiency I would recommend consultation to anyone seeking to do their own solar system It is Well above worth the money I promise the best absolutely the best thank you so much
Correction needed Hey Nate. I would like to thank you for your time and effort to upload all those informative videos, keep it up. When it comes to calculating the Max Amps coming out from the MPPT solar charge controller the answer in your video references the max wattage you calculated with the formula divided by charging voltage pushed, where as in the calculator on the website it references the Max Voltage Per Panel at Estimated Low Temperature x Solar Panel Maximum Power Current (Imp) / Charging Voltage Pushed the two approaches are different and lead to different answers… I think something needs to be fixed.
just sad. i just happened to run across your channel while researching solar set ups for travel trailers ( glad i did by the way ) and i can't believe the dislikes !! why?, it seems the more information you give, the free resources, the time it takes to make videos of this caliber, everything short of doing it for them, people still have the nerve to thumbs down videos. you even take the math ( which is complicated for some ) and break it down to make it a heck of a lot easier. i just don't get it. thanks for all your hard work ( i know i appreciate it ) , read a few articles on your site as well... added to my favorites!!!
Thank you for being an AWESOME teacher. We are in the beginning days of building our Shuttle Bus and your videos are helping us understand solar and what we need to purchase. Sincere Thanks.
Just learned that I need a way bigger controller for my set up than I ever imagined. This saved me money in the long run, as I will not blow the puny one on an over voltage/amperage. With those 4x65W panels x 2 series it turns out I will have to go for a 150/60 controller.
Holly crap. That was an extremely well done explanation. I understood ! Of course by the time I add the period I will have forgotten everything, but that’s not your fault. Great job.
I am so grateful you choose not to talk so fast. There is another person who teaches about solar who does speak fast, while he has good content, his fast speech makes it difficult for me to keep up. I found your videos for the first time today. Thank you for speaking slower. If been studying solar God 4 months now and did not know I can use 24v pannels on a 12 system providing I don't go above the voltage threshold of my charge control. Ty 4 that 2 :-)
Your content is simply amazing!! I stumbled upon your channel trying to learn more about a solar install into a skoolie, and every video you've posted is so far invaluable to me. Cannot thank you enough for making all of this so accessible
Nate- that's HUGE!!! The price of peace of mind is priceless. I don't mind doing the background work (using your calculator, doing some hand math, etc..), but- would feel 1,000 times BETTER if I could convince you to eyeball my work. Additionally, I will reference all of your work for determining wire size, but- as long as we talking solar- maybe, I could convince you to check that as well? I'd rather do this work RIGHT once, and, get years of service from this expensive equipment, than burn out controllers, ruin batteries or burn down my truck camper! Yikes!
Thanks for the info, we are off grid “Victron gear” I constantly monitor our usage and as you say the difference in winter / summer is easy to see when looking live on the VRM, we have a duel axis array setup, consists of 6 x 335watt LG panels in 2 strings, (2010 watts total) it’s looking at the sun all day sun up - sun down, I have seen in colder days it reach 2430 watts, on real hot days eg: 39c it only pumps out 1700 watts, big difference, MPPT is 150/100. Inverter charger Mulitiplus 48VA - 35Amp. Batteries agm 12 volt -220AH x two banks (48volts) It gets us by no problems, il be using your method when upgrading later. Thanks again👍🇦🇺
Fascinating video and your calculator is amazing. I only have a small teardrop camper with 100 W solar but I want to upgrade my batteries to lithium and the charge controller too.
Hi i like the way you broke down the calculations and made it so simple i'm not that good with maths either but you my friend by far out shine a lot you should play the lotto with your skills after all its a math problem
Thanks for the succinct information and the calculator! Greatly appreciated. Using this info to "check" the contractor we are working with to ensure we are not being under/oversold.
Sorry, but on the current calculation you multiplied by 5 at moment "6:04" but you should take into account that the maximum current is only 9.22A as the panels are connected in series. Thanks for the video!
He's calculating the Amperage that would be supplied from the charge controller in the lowest temperature conditions. The current would be ca. 9.22A going into the controller, and ca. 46.14A coming out of it.
@@Marley-ii6ls Solar panels needs to be more volt going in to the charger then the volt going out. It is quite typical with 40 to 80 or 160v in, and 12 - 24 or 48v out. So it is always more amps going out then in...
Negative thumbs up is because halving to watch the non-skippable adds if I go back and re review a short section of your great informative videos. If I wonted a taco bell burrito I'd go get one.
Great video - you threw me off track with the Max Power Voltage (i.e. 22.65Voc Vs 18.90 volts) Had to go back to look at the solar panel label again to verify. Thanks for the videos - much appreciated!
Wow 1st off ur amazing with the speedy reply the series parrellel thing threw me for a loop but amps going into charge 18 comming out of solar 86.11 300v per panel 1200 total
Gotcha. The array voltage is too high. that's why it isn't making a recommendation. Try using a series-parallel configuration to lower the array voltage.
OOOH my goodness.... even google translate could not translate that load of bobldie-gook you spouted in the first minute......🤣. Great video. I am a new subscriber and I am finding these videos so useful for our Narrowboat buid. Thank you.
thank just kidding you have learned a lot since your 1st video nice to see you have turned a hobby in to a business good for you good luck in the future
Hi, WEll done on your videos. The one thing I have not heard anyone talk about when size your requirements are the devices that do not take watt hours. So you may have your computer on for a period of a few hours which is fine, but things like kettles to make a cut of tea, they may be 1.8 kilowatts, but they are only on for a short period of time, so who do you factor that in. This also applies to power tools where you might only have them on every now and again like a mitre saw for example.
1.8 kilowatts = 1,800 Watts. If you run a 1,800W device for an hour, that's 1,800 Watt Hours. Half an hour would be 900 Watt hours. 15 minutes would be 450 Watt hours. Something like a miter saw that only gets a few seconds of use at a time would indeed be difficult to calculate as the use is also pretty inconsistent.
You just made me understand electricity even less, don’t do that😆😆😆but you have a calculator so it’s cool. A suggestion, this video should be combined with sizing solar panel video, once you worked out how many you can work out which controller as well, then down to the solar shop..
thanks for the info, but for total amp calculation, I suppose it refers to 5 panels connected in parallel? As current of panel suppose to be the same if they are connected in series.
Thank you for so much information. How do I get the following: 1) Temperature coefficient VOC and 2) Temperature coefficient of PMAX if this is not listed on my panel or my specifications sheet? Any help you can offer is rally appreciated.
Victron could have made it easier still. I thought the listed voltage and amperage were both input maximums. Certainly their 100/30 MPPT cannot handle an input of say 400 Amps at 100 volts. Perhaps their listing these numbers clearly as maximum inputs would be good, and then listing the charging output in amps, and labeling that as well. Thanks for the video series, these have been great.
This video and your tutorial is excellent. Thank you. I'm currently at the planning stage and your knowledge and calculator will be essential in planning my setup. I am planning on using Victron totally. Once again; awesome video.
This is a great calculator. However, one thing to be aware of is that Victron charge controllers require a 5 volt difference between the voltage of the battery and the incoming voltage from the solar panels to turn on. For example, lets say your battery is at 12.4 volts, the incoming voltage must be 12.4 volts + 5 volts or 17.4 volts. This is important in selecting your panel. In my case, I was looking at setting up a single solar panel with charge controller to maintain my batteries while my RV is in storage. This is on a truck camper with limited space on the roof. I plan on an eventual expansion to 300 to 400 watts but initially I figured a 100 watt panel would be adequate to maintain my batteries. I bought the panel and a Victron 100/20 charge controller for future expansion. As it turns out the output voltage of the panel is only 16.77 volts. The charge controller will not turn until the battery voltage drops to11.77 volts. Not acceptable in my opinion. There are lot of panels on the market with higher output voltages and this wouldn't have been an issue. My solution is to buy another panel and run in series to double the voltage output. The charge controller should work fine after that. Just be aware of the 5 volt requirement to turn on your Victron charge controller (not sure how this affects other brand charge controllers) when sizing and choosing your solar panels.
yeah, living quite far north i can agree .. when 24V panel produces enough voltage to charge 12V battery only 3-4 hours per day .. added second panel few weeks ago .. but its late spring / early summer. I'll see what happens in late october. Also using Victron controller, amazing stuff. Wide range of input V, different battery chemistries and voltages .. but the price .. ;) Still worth it
@@matikaevur6299 I'm in the same boat and need to start my build asap. Are there any cons in running a 24v panel in a 12v battery system when using a mppt controller? I can't decide between a 12v 200W panel and a 24v 200w panel. My location is in Europe where it can be incredibly warm but also cloudy and quite cold.
Perhaps just choose from the systems I've already got designed and available to take the guesswork out of it? shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
@@EXPLORISTlife If your answer is for me then we have a problem with shipping/vat/import duties. It's just that a 24v panel with the same wattage as a 12v carry the same price. If my calculations are correct a 24v panel will send more charge amps to a 12v battery compared to a 12v panel with the same wattage.
@@perpelle Hello, i run 2x24V in series to charge 12V battery. It's ok in summer .. after that 2 weeks (ha joke :) not much. Tallinn, Estonia. Usually those MPPT controllers need battery voltage +2V to start charging. So in case of low light you get volts up faster and MPPT takes care about amps. My 2 panels are 24V, 240W, 10A, connected in series. So mid-sized victron is quite ok. No controller can give you power if you haven't seen sun for 3 weeks ..
Finally got to the end of the video... really great video. still lost on something pretty important though... not sure how u derived the -0.336 "Temperature Coefficient" value. -0.336 isn't shown nor derived from the label located on the back of the 100W Maya solar panel... is it?
Usually you just design your solar charger system to be able to handle 30% higher voltage then the panels is rated at to make sure you do not get overvoltage when it is cold and sunny. When it comes to more Ampere / watt in then the charger is rated for as I understanding that is not a problem, your charger will simply not use that energy and it will not matter but go to waste as potential energy not used. Just like you have in a 16A 220v system 3,520w available in the socket, and if you connect a 10w led it will only use 10w not the full 3250w available in the socket.
I really enjoy your content. I bought a high res wiring diagram. But I couldn’t download it. It was order 64247. My web browser said a problem repeatedly occurred. I have very slow internet so I even went to town with a faster internet. Same problem. Thanks.
Darn! Sorry about the glitch. For problems with an order or download; send me an email to the address listed on my 'contact-us' page: www.explorist.life/contact-us/
I applaud you for your awareness of the impact of temperature on a solar controller, but there is a flaw in your logic in relating to the impact of cold weather. You are only going to see those extreme low temperatures a few months of the year, and during all those months the sun will never go very high on the horizon. That’s easily proved by comparing the elevation of the sun on June 21 to December 21 at the same location. As volts go up with the colder temperature, they go down with a lower sun. Beyond that, cold air is much denser than the warm air of summer and by being low on the horizon, sunlight must travel further through much more dense atmosphere as well as a much denser atmosphere. A far more realistic example is to imagine driving at 12,000 feet at noon in Colorado on a very cold day on June 21 and it is 50 degrees F. That is going to be a large spike in voltage and you will be very glad you added that extra headroom for a big spike in voltage and amps. A friend blew his controller in just that situation-even though he had sized it right for “normal” temperatures. Your conclusions are helpful because other than spending too much you won’t regret buying a bigger better controller than you need, but choosing a more realistic example increases your credibility.
With all due respect... my example is accurate. :) It's important to take into account the lowest morning temperature ever expected because before the charge controller comes out of it's sleep mode for the morning, the solar panels could potentially reach their full rated open circuit voltage (Voc) AS SOON AS the sun peeks over the horizon. Your example with the mid-day high elevation, cold weather in the summer would only be for the operating voltage (Vmp), which is inherently lower than the Voc anyway, so if we account for the morning time low temperature for the Voc, the high Vmp would always be covered. Sources: Where do we get the expected lowest temperature? Normally, this temperature occurs in the very early morning hours just before sunrise on cold winter mornings. The PV modules are, in many cases, a few degrees colder than the air temperature due to night-sky radiation effects. The illumination at dawn and dusk are sufficient to produce high Voc, even when the sun is not shining directly on the PV array and has not produced any solar heating of the modules. - iaeimagazine.org/features/pv-math/ PV modules will “wake-up” every morning with very little sunlight. Because the PV array is sitting outside, the temperatures of the modules will be the exact same value as the night air. Because the sun isn’t actually hitting the array immediately, the modules will not immediately produce any current, which means they will immediately go to open circuit voltage. If the temperature of the module is less than the STC value of 25°C, the module’s Voc value will actually be greater than the value listed on the module’s listing label. For our discussion, we will consider the temperature of the module to be equal to ambient temperature at daybreak. - www.ecmweb.com/renewables/article/20896643/the-highs-and-lows-of-photovoltaic-system-calculations "Voc will potentially be briefly produced in the morning when the sun first comes up and the panels are at their coolest, but the connected electronics haven’t woken up out of sleep mode yet." - www.altestore.com/blog/2016/04/how-do-i-read-specifications-of-my-solar-panel
It seems like the cold weather voltage spike is more common and more of a concern in most situations than a cold weather amperage spike because of a low sunlight angle with the exception of extremely high altitude cold situations that can come at times when the sun is very high in the sky. For people near sea level it seems like a cold induced amperage spike exceeding a charge controller’s capacity is very unlikely.
Well, I guess crow is on the menu tonight. Subbed. 😀 Will be using your calculator and maybe the forums on my first build. Thanks for all that you do, EXPLORIST Life! 29NOV21-Update: Oh and I just saw your full tutorial on a full electrical set up and will definitely be buying your kits!
You are so good young man,I have been going through all of your videos,I looking for one about inverters ,because I looking for a kind of inverter where I can get a neutral line and live line,thank you
So, Nate. 2 years later, and- here I am sitting, watching & feeling incredibly grateful! Not only are you highly focused, right on stream & quick (thank you!) but, additionally, you use Victron equipment (mine's marine- Victron required-almost!) and explain detail (fitment, temp. ranges, max voltage). Finally, space restrictions, wire runs, proper contacts at equipment- all priceless details that PREVENT releasing the magic smoke inside the wires & charge controllers (That's my biggest worry, can't put the Genie back in the bottle once it's been freed!)
Wow, I wonder how many people have been helped with you & your wife's channel? I bet it's up to tens of thousands? Free calculators, Excel spreadsheets... Thank you is certainly NOT enough.
How this video has so few likes is beyond me. This calculator is amazing! Thank you for putting it together.
Hey Nick Cranston, Thanks so much! Cheers!
@SOLDOZER We didn’t get to a quarter million subscribers for teaching garbage.
I been looking for this kind of information without the bs glad I finally found you.
You should thank yourself. This stuff is a bit complicated when someone like me has absolutely no knowledge to start with. I've saved your video and worked out some numbers just to follow your demo, but I know when I get ready I'm going to want someone like you to double check my numbers. This won't be for 3 years when I retire. So in the mean time I'm going to be the most informed as I can be from rooftop to floor. You have been a big help. So thank you, i appreciate you. Pattie
Great video! Just the right amount of focus, math and repetition for me to learn it. We all learn differently, and after watching countless videos from other channels this is the fellow that explains it just right for me to understand and learn.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
he is really a nice guy, i ask him help and he answer, he offer to help, amazing i have not use his good will but i will!
The calculator is awesome and might really save some people a lot of headache and money from unknowingly undersizing their charge controller! Not to mention a lot of RVrs may find themselves in high altitude situations where cold weather can come during times of the year when the sun is high in the sky!
I will be upgrading my truck camper to a Lithium system and came across your videos. They are helpful beyond words!!! Thank you!
Your calculator saved me from making a grave mistake. A self-proclaimed solar nerd convinced me that his math was correct. It turns out that my amperage was WAY higher (42 amps) than I should be running. Thankfully, I had doubts. Liked and subscribed.
Higher amps then the solar charge controller is rated for is not a problem, it is just wasted as potential energy from the panels not used (no damage but it is waste of solar energy to not use it all). What is a really a problem is if your solar panels is producing more voltage (V) then the charge controller can handle...
The diagrams are JAW DROPPING
Just completed first consultation last week I learned so much create safety in the system I have and allow more efficiency I would recommend consultation to anyone seeking to do their own solar system It is Well above worth the money I promise the best absolutely the best thank you so much
Looking forward to the next consultation after I receive needed products from explorerist can't go wrong here
You just saved me a bunch a digging around. I was searching for the right size charger to connect to a 540W panel. Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou.
Correction needed
Hey Nate. I would like to thank you for your time and effort to upload all those informative videos, keep it up.
When it comes to calculating the Max Amps coming out from the MPPT solar charge controller the answer in your video references the max wattage you calculated with the formula divided by charging voltage pushed, where as in the calculator on the website it references the Max Voltage Per Panel at Estimated Low Temperature x Solar Panel Maximum Power Current (Imp) / Charging Voltage Pushed the two approaches are different and lead to different answers… I think something needs to be fixed.
Noticed that same thing.
just sad. i just happened to run across your channel while researching solar set ups for travel trailers ( glad i did by the way ) and i can't believe the dislikes !! why?, it seems the more information you give, the free resources, the time it takes to make videos of this caliber, everything short of doing it for them, people still have the nerve to thumbs down videos. you even take the math ( which is complicated for some ) and break it down to make it a heck of a lot easier. i just don't get it. thanks for all your hard work ( i know i appreciate it ) , read a few articles on your site as well... added to my favorites!!!
Finally found the info I was looking for regarding multi panels and the Victron MPPT 100/20.
Thank you
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Wow the calculator is super helpful in combination with the video. Thank you!!
Thank you for being an AWESOME teacher. We are in the beginning days of building our Shuttle Bus and your videos are helping us understand solar and what we need to purchase. Sincere Thanks.
Just learned that I need a way bigger controller for my set up than I ever imagined. This saved me money in the long run, as I will not blow the puny one on an over voltage/amperage.
With those 4x65W panels x 2 series it turns out I will have to go for a 150/60 controller.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Holly crap. That was an extremely well done explanation. I understood ! Of course by the time I add the period I will have forgotten everything, but that’s not your fault. Great job.
Not gona lie, my brain hurt for a bit there but came away knowing more. Great tutorial and will defiantly watch that again 👍
I love this! Been with ya since the beginning
Hey Gary Collins, Thanks so much! Cheers!
I am so grateful you choose not to talk so fast. There is another person who teaches about solar who does speak fast, while he has good content, his fast speech makes it difficult for me to keep up. I found your videos for the first time today. Thank you for speaking slower. If been studying solar God 4 months now and did not know I can use 24v pannels on a 12 system providing I don't go above the voltage threshold of my charge control. Ty 4 that 2 :-)
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
you are a great guy and a good teacher thanks, god bless
Your content is simply amazing!! I stumbled upon your channel trying to learn more about a solar install into a skoolie, and every video you've posted is so far invaluable to me. Cannot thank you enough for making all of this so accessible
I will probably not watch another video because I got everything I needed from this brilliant video, you just deserve a sub anyway.
Top content lad
Nate- that's HUGE!!! The price of peace of mind is priceless. I don't mind doing the background work (using your calculator, doing some hand math, etc..), but- would feel 1,000 times BETTER if I could convince you to eyeball my work. Additionally, I will reference all of your work for determining wire size, but- as long as we talking solar- maybe, I could convince you to check that as well? I'd rather do this work RIGHT once, and, get years of service from this expensive equipment, than burn out controllers, ruin batteries or burn down my truck camper! Yikes!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
The calculator is awesome, thx
Thanks for providing this information and calculator Nate!
Wow u draw such straight lines and square corners :)
Thanks for the info, we are off grid “Victron gear”
I constantly monitor our usage and as you say the difference in winter / summer is easy to see when looking live on the VRM, we have a duel axis array setup, consists of 6 x 335watt LG panels in 2 strings, (2010 watts total)
it’s looking at the sun all day sun up - sun down, I have seen in colder days it reach 2430 watts, on real hot days eg: 39c it only pumps out 1700 watts, big difference, MPPT is 150/100. Inverter charger Mulitiplus 48VA - 35Amp.
Batteries agm 12 volt -220AH x two banks (48volts)
It gets us by no problems, il be using your method when upgrading later.
Thanks again👍🇦🇺
Sounds like a great setup! Glad it's working well for you. VRM portal is a great tool for sure.
Fascinating video and your calculator is amazing. I only have a small teardrop camper with 100 W solar but I want to upgrade my batteries to lithium and the charge controller too.
The calculator is awesome!
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Yo the calculator is top tier! very good job
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
you calculator is fantastic ! THANK YOU !
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve just found your channel and it’s gold dust. Please keep up the fantastic work.
Hey Roland Maraldo, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Hi i like the way you broke down the calculations and made it so simple i'm not that good with maths either but you my friend by far out shine a lot you should play the lotto with your skills after all its a math problem
Thanks for the succinct information and the calculator! Greatly appreciated. Using this info to "check" the contractor we are working with to ensure we are not being under/oversold.
Be sure if the information differs that you tell him "...but this one guy from RUclips said..."
Contractors love that. :D :D :D
What a legend 100% what I was looking for AND a brilliant free calculator :) thank you bud
Hey Pete Warby, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
You created an excellent little tool, thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful!
Funny intro....loved it.
Sorry, but on the current calculation you multiplied by 5 at moment "6:04" but you should take into account that the maximum current is only 9.22A as the panels are connected in series. Thanks for the video!
He's calculating the Amperage that would be supplied from the charge controller in the lowest temperature conditions. The current would be ca. 9.22A going into the controller, and ca. 46.14A coming out of it.
@Mike Jones unless the voltage changes you can't just produce more amps. Watts in has to equal watts out minus losses just like a transformer.
@@Marley-ii6ls Solar panels needs to be more volt going in to the charger then the volt going out. It is quite typical with 40 to 80 or 160v in, and 12 - 24 or 48v out. So it is always more amps going out then in...
😂😂😂 Love the opening of mathematical and algorithm equations! I’m still laughing 😝 As always great video, thanks from Texas!
Majorly excellent... thanks again, Nate, maaaaaate!!
Negative thumbs up is because halving to watch the non-skippable adds if I go back and re review a short section of your great informative videos. If I wonted a taco bell burrito I'd go get one.
Pay for RUclips premium and it gets rid of ads but still pays for us to make these videos. Like $10 a month or something.
What does that have to do with him? We are giving creators thumbs down now for how youtube works?
Wow thank you so much for the quick to the point info and the tools you provide are awesome.
Hey Daniel, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Great video - you threw me off track with the Max Power Voltage (i.e. 22.65Voc Vs 18.90 volts) Had to go back to look at the solar panel label again to verify. Thanks for the videos - much appreciated!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Amazing website to help with calculations and visualisation 👌⚡✨
Omg ur a wealth of knowledge thx for all your maths plugged my panel info into calc but it didn’t give a recommendation
What information did the calculator provide in the ''Detailed Results" Section?
Wow 1st off ur amazing with the speedy reply the series parrellel thing threw me for a loop but amps going into charge 18 comming out of solar 86.11 300v per panel 1200 total
Gotcha. The array voltage is too high. that's why it isn't making a recommendation. Try using a series-parallel configuration to lower the array voltage.
"I have to drink during the day, it's for work!" 😂
Nice start 😂😂
Haha, thanks!
Lol that's exactly what I've been avoiding and it's like that on so many channels
OOOH my goodness.... even google translate could not translate that load of bobldie-gook you spouted in the first minute......🤣. Great video. I am a new subscriber and I am finding these videos so useful for our Narrowboat buid. Thank you.
Hey Buzzy's Boaty, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
top notch dude..thankyou for Yoir time and effort..much needed help..big ups ..THANKYOU
thank just kidding you have learned a lot since your 1st video nice to see you have turned a hobby in to a business good for you good luck in the future
One more comment- Thank you for the great videos and detailed information!!
Hey Doug Whiteside, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
This was awesome!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Wow sharp fast direct information. Thanks.
Hey Phil Lalonde, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Great video! I am on a sailboat and your calc is great. Your stuff is great for the 'floating' RVs:)
Great stuff, and thanks for the calculator. With a 250/100 in the my setup, I’m apparently as cool as I can be. 😊 Your work is much appreciated!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
The first 30 seconds is exactly what I thought.
Thank you for the video.
Way awesome, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR WHAT YOU DO! giant help
Hi...I'm a new subscriber,... thank you and happy new year
Hey Julius Estardo, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Hi, WEll done on your videos. The one thing I have not heard anyone talk about when size your requirements are the devices that do not take watt hours. So you may have your computer on for a period of a few hours which is fine, but things like kettles to make a cut of tea, they may be 1.8 kilowatts, but they are only on for a short period of time, so who do you factor that in. This also applies to power tools where you might only have them on every now and again like a mitre saw for example.
1.8 kilowatts = 1,800 Watts. If you run a 1,800W device for an hour, that's 1,800 Watt Hours. Half an hour would be 900 Watt hours. 15 minutes would be 450 Watt hours.
Something like a miter saw that only gets a few seconds of use at a time would indeed be difficult to calculate as the use is also pretty inconsistent.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yes, I agree, the likes of a kettle which only stays on for about 5 minutes would also be difficult to calculate.
That one is pretty easy too since it's consistently on for 5 minutes at a time. 1800W / 60 minutes = 30Wh per minute. x 5 minutes = 150Wh per use.
@@EXPLORISTlife Ok, I didn't think about looking at it that way, thank you. :-)
Ok.. my brain just exploded... but if I keep listening , I'm starting to get it. I need an aspirin...
PS... great videos...
Nice introduction Einstein lol.
Great video!
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Thanks for all your input, They are quite helpful ..
No problem. Happy to help!
The intro had me cracking up!
Haha you caught yourself out when you where doing the editing! Awesome vidz👍👍👍
You just made me understand electricity even less, don’t do that😆😆😆but you have a calculator so it’s cool. A suggestion, this video should be combined with sizing solar panel video, once you worked out how many you can work out which controller as well, then down to the solar shop..
Excellent video! Thank you very much for the great info.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the video
You are a Bloody Legend Mate! Thanks so much! Your videos are Great!
Hey Matt Anderson, Thanks so much! Cheers!
The first 30 seconds tells me all you need to know.
I feel you are a rapper hahaha, can you watch your video again 😬 you are awesome 🤙
I learned in this video. I don’t need to get involved in solar
It's not for everybody. You definitely need to WANT to learn to get into this stuff.
thanks for the info, but for total amp calculation, I suppose it refers to 5 panels connected in parallel? As current of panel suppose to be the same if they are connected in series.
Thank you for so much information. How do I get the following: 1) Temperature coefficient VOC and 2) Temperature coefficient of PMAX if this is not listed on my panel or my specifications sheet? Any help you can offer is rally appreciated.
yea...i agree... i dont know how to get those exact things aswell..good question...]
help.>!>>!
ultimately video left me confused on those 2 points
@@jamieshakeshaft5468 my spec sheet has the Voltage Temperature Coefficient in mV, but it is not clear if he used mV or V in his calculator
Well done, wait hold on, grabbing my paper. Nope missed it! 👍I can play over & over again…..did you just say easy? 😁
Whoa that’s a lot. Thanks for whittling it down
Hey David Thomas, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Victron could have made it easier still. I thought the listed voltage and amperage were both input maximums. Certainly their 100/30 MPPT cannot handle an input of say 400 Amps at 100 volts. Perhaps their listing these numbers clearly as maximum inputs would be good, and then listing the charging output in amps, and labeling that as well. Thanks for the video series, these have been great.
This video and your tutorial is excellent. Thank you. I'm currently at the planning stage and your knowledge and calculator will be essential in planning my setup. I am planning on using Victron totally. Once again; awesome video.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great video and thanks for the calculator!!!
Hey Luton Van Man, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Laughed and learned thanks
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
This is a great calculator. However, one thing to be aware of is that Victron charge controllers require a 5 volt difference between the voltage of the battery and the incoming voltage from the solar panels to turn on. For example, lets say your battery is at 12.4 volts, the incoming voltage must be 12.4 volts + 5 volts or 17.4 volts. This is important in selecting your panel. In my case, I was looking at setting up a single solar panel with charge controller to maintain my batteries while my RV is in storage. This is on a truck camper with limited space on the roof. I plan on an eventual expansion to 300 to 400 watts but initially I figured a 100 watt panel would be adequate to maintain my batteries. I bought the panel and a Victron 100/20 charge controller for future expansion. As it turns out the output voltage of the panel is only 16.77 volts. The charge controller will not turn until the battery voltage drops to11.77 volts. Not acceptable in my opinion. There are lot of panels on the market with higher output voltages and this wouldn't have been an issue. My solution is to buy another panel and run in series to double the voltage output. The charge controller should work fine after that. Just be aware of the 5 volt requirement to turn on your Victron charge controller (not sure how this affects other brand charge controllers) when sizing and choosing your solar panels.
yeah, living quite far north i can agree ..
when 24V panel produces enough voltage to charge 12V battery only 3-4 hours per day ..
added second panel few weeks ago .. but its late spring / early summer. I'll see what happens in late october.
Also using Victron controller, amazing stuff. Wide range of input V, different battery chemistries and voltages .. but the price .. ;)
Still worth it
@@matikaevur6299 I'm in the same boat and need to start my build asap.
Are there any cons in running a 24v panel in a 12v battery system when using a mppt controller?
I can't decide between a 12v 200W panel and a 24v 200w panel.
My location is in Europe where it can be incredibly warm but also cloudy and quite cold.
Perhaps just choose from the systems I've already got designed and available to take the guesswork out of it? shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
@@EXPLORISTlife If your answer is for me then we have a problem with shipping/vat/import duties.
It's just that a 24v panel with the same wattage as a 12v carry the same price.
If my calculations are correct a 24v panel will send more charge amps to a 12v battery compared to a 12v panel with the same wattage.
@@perpelle
Hello, i run 2x24V in series to charge 12V battery.
It's ok in summer .. after that 2 weeks (ha joke :)
not much. Tallinn, Estonia.
Usually those MPPT controllers need battery voltage +2V to start charging. So in case of low light you get volts up faster and MPPT takes care about amps. My 2 panels are 24V, 240W, 10A, connected in series.
So mid-sized victron is quite ok. No controller can give you power if you haven't seen sun for 3 weeks ..
Nice job.
Thanks mate! An awesome resource you are.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
excellent video however how can the amperage increase if the solar panels are in series? the diagram for the amperage shows the panels in series.
Super useful information, I did not think about cold boosting my amps, You got my Sub and like
Hey jaycweingardt11, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Thanks for making the video.
"it's fine, you just won't be cool" tru dat
Fun fact.
My daughters used to play softball. They addressed their teammates, "Hey, you guys!'
Liked and subbed based solely on the opening! 😀
Be on the lookout for the EXPLORIST.life informational mixtape coming soon. 🤣😂
Finally got to the end of the video... really great video. still lost on something pretty important though... not sure how u derived the -0.336 "Temperature Coefficient" value. -0.336 isn't shown nor derived from the label located on the back of the 100W Maya solar panel... is it?
Usually you just design your solar charger system to be able to handle 30% higher voltage then the panels is rated at to make sure you do not get overvoltage when it is cold and sunny.
When it comes to more Ampere / watt in then the charger is rated for as I understanding that is not a problem, your charger will simply not use that energy and it will not matter but go to waste as potential energy not used.
Just like you have in a 16A 220v system 3,520w available in the socket, and if you connect a 10w led it will only use 10w not the full 3250w available in the socket.
Great video for all of us who haven't done extended math in 30+ years and trying to figure out how much "the Bananas Per Pound will cost today" 😜
Could you explain, maybe you already have.. victrons calculator has a checkbox "Allow oversizing above 130%". Awesome videos!
Thanks! I didn't make Victrons calculator. Only my own. 🙂👍
I really enjoy your content. I bought a high res wiring diagram. But I couldn’t download it. It was order 64247. My web browser said a problem repeatedly occurred. I have very slow internet so I even went to town with a faster internet. Same problem. Thanks.
Darn! Sorry about the glitch. For problems with an order or download; send me an email to the address listed on my 'contact-us' page: www.explorist.life/contact-us/
cool. idol! yeah i found vitron product complete on this camper projects, i am planning victron all the way.. love ur content, mathwhiz!
I applaud you for your awareness of the impact of temperature on a solar controller, but there is a flaw in your logic in relating to the impact of cold weather. You are only going to see those extreme low temperatures a few months of the year, and during all those months the sun will never go very high on the horizon. That’s easily proved by comparing the elevation of the sun on June 21 to December 21 at the same location. As volts go up with the colder temperature, they go down with a lower sun. Beyond that, cold air is much denser than the warm air of summer and by being low on the horizon, sunlight must travel further through much more dense atmosphere as well as a much denser atmosphere. A far more realistic example is to imagine driving at 12,000 feet at noon in Colorado on a very cold day on June 21 and it is 50 degrees F. That is going to be a large spike in voltage and you will be very glad you added that extra headroom for a big spike in voltage and amps. A friend blew his controller in just that situation-even though he had sized it right for “normal” temperatures. Your conclusions are helpful because other than spending too much you won’t regret buying a bigger better controller than you need, but choosing a more realistic example increases your credibility.
With all due respect... my example is accurate. :) It's important to take into account the lowest morning temperature ever expected because before the charge controller comes out of it's sleep mode for the morning, the solar panels could potentially reach their full rated open circuit voltage (Voc) AS SOON AS the sun peeks over the horizon.
Your example with the mid-day high elevation, cold weather in the summer would only be for the operating voltage (Vmp), which is inherently lower than the Voc anyway, so if we account for the morning time low temperature for the Voc, the high Vmp would always be covered.
Sources:
Where do we get the expected lowest temperature? Normally, this temperature occurs in the very early morning hours just before sunrise on cold winter mornings. The PV modules are, in many cases, a few degrees colder than the air temperature due to night-sky radiation effects. The illumination at dawn and dusk are sufficient to produce high Voc, even when the sun is not shining directly on the PV array and has not produced any solar heating of the modules. - iaeimagazine.org/features/pv-math/
PV modules will “wake-up” every morning with very little sunlight. Because the PV array is sitting outside, the temperatures of the modules will be the exact same value as the night air. Because the sun isn’t actually hitting the array immediately, the modules will not immediately produce any current, which means they will immediately go to open circuit voltage. If the temperature of the module is less than the STC value of 25°C, the module’s Voc value will actually be greater than the value listed on the module’s listing label. For our discussion, we will consider the temperature of the module to be equal to ambient temperature at daybreak. - www.ecmweb.com/renewables/article/20896643/the-highs-and-lows-of-photovoltaic-system-calculations
"Voc will potentially be briefly produced in the morning when the sun first comes up and the panels are at their coolest, but the connected electronics haven’t woken up out of sleep mode yet." - www.altestore.com/blog/2016/04/how-do-i-read-specifications-of-my-solar-panel
It seems like the cold weather voltage spike is more common and more of a concern in most situations than a cold weather amperage spike because of a low sunlight angle with the exception of extremely high altitude cold situations that can come at times when the sun is very high in the sky. For people near sea level it seems like a cold induced amperage spike exceeding a charge controller’s capacity is very unlikely.
Absolutely no consideration of an allowance for the earth being flat......just sayin’...
@@Casmige No mate; that's why the panels are FLAT 😆
Well, I guess crow is on the menu tonight. Subbed. 😀 Will be using your calculator and maybe the forums on my first build. Thanks for all that you do, EXPLORIST Life!
29NOV21-Update:
Oh and I just saw your full tutorial on a full electrical set up and will definitely be buying your kits!
You are so good young man,I have been going through all of your videos,I looking for one about inverters ,because I looking for a kind of inverter where I can get a neutral line and live line,thank you