first id like to thank you for taking the time to show us the craft. I cant believe you have so many veiws but so little love. I hit the thumbs up long ago. wish I had the money for all those tools. ive messed up quite a few necks, not having the right tools, so I totally get what you said. ive got a neck that needs a refret, and that's how I came upon your video. crazy how you had to refret a warmoth neck, they should come perfect , considering how expensive they are!
With low areas that you cannot sand out I use a wet sponge and a soldering iron which steams the area and the timber (most of the time will pop out or up) and after a few tries at it I can get the timber to raise up enough to then gently sand back down to level with the rest of the area. Of course this has to be done carefully and make sure it has stayed raised after it has fully dried out. My dad went nuts when his granddaughter dragged a knife tip across his beautiful Oak dinner table gouging out a deep scratch. He didn't go nuts at his beloved little grandchild but moaned about it for months as the table cost £1750 secondhand and it looked a real mess. I told him I could do the repair but he thought I would further ruin the table so I did it when he went into hospital for a week for surgery on his spine. I got the whole gouge out and got it refinished by a guy in the local news paper. The next time we went round for Easter dinner he had the dinner mats out covering up the scratch which wasn't there anymore so I brought it up and my sister glared at me thinking here we go again as he would never let it drop. When I said where was the scratch he was perplexed so I fessed up and said I repaired it. He never said thanks son just moaned I should of got his permission first which would never of happened...lol. Long story I know but he passed last summer so these are now funny memories of the times when he was a great moaner...lol.
I appreciate the work you’re doing in the video but respectfully disagree that a person can’t use a leveling bar to prep a fingerboard. Ultimately the process of doing fretwork becomes personalized for each person as they gain experience. The main thing about doing fretwork is knowing how to do the work accurately and how to read the board. There are lots of additional factors that go into it before ever pulling a fret as well.
The leveling bars work well for getting a fingerboard straight along its length as does the long aluminum radius block. The leveling bars are especially handy when prepping a compound radius. The key is checking frequently as it’s being used. If you stay in one spot too long a flat spot can be created when checking with the radius gauge. I agree the wood blocks are rarely perfect and will change over time but they are easier on our wallets. The key is to understand the many factors that go into a quality fret job and check progress frequently.
I have never ordered one from Warmoth but I was under the impression you order the neck with either a uniform (standard) or compound (conical) radius. Obviously the conical radius should allow for better action over the entire neck without sacrificing the ergonomics and playability near the the nut (lower frets).
You can raise the grain on the fingerboard by putting a little water on all of the low spots and using a clothes iron - set on hot - and then press it on the wet spots for a few seconds. That will raise the grain up; THEN sand the fingerboard.
I have just refretted my esp ltd m-302 for the first time using stainless steel frets off of ebay and minimal tools.. It plays great, it feels great and thats all that matters to me. Im a guitar player, so if it feels good, sounds good thats all you need in my opinion.. it doesnt matter if youre using 1000 of dollars on tools to refret or level your frets if the person whos going to use it can settle with 2 factors: no fret buzz and good sound..
A very helpful video. One point: after cleaning the fret slots and checking that they are a very small amount deeper than the fret tang, it's usually a good idea to use a small triangular file to remove the top corners of the fret slot: it only takes a couple of light passes with the file (file towards the center of the fretboard, from both edges, to prevent possible chip-out). There will always be a very small radius between the underside of the fret crown and the tang, which would tend to compress the top edges of the slot, and sometimes preventing the fret from seating completely. Also not too keen on the idea of having to hammer the fret, after the glue has hardened. One reason, I suppose to use glue which has a much longer setting time, though you wouldn't be able to use the spray hardener.
I hear what you are saying, but the procedure you are recommending is not to prevent chipout, its actually to help seat frets that are not completely flat or true at the tang and the bottom of the fret.
WHY are you using a hammer AFTER you used super-glue....super-glue that you said yourself bonds in 15 seconds? Don't you see the problem there? This is not the right way, sorry. You need hide glue. And use enough that it seeps out. You need specific measurements to ensure the tang has the room to go all the way in. And the neck is not full stable when you're using the fret press. I appreciate you wanting to show people this work, but there are too many things going wrong here.
many instrument makers use a plane to not only level the fretboard, but also to radius it. a sanding block is the same way, though it takes skill to get it right if you arent using a preshaped radius block.
Hey there :-) Thanks for this video - it's always interesting to see how other people go about these tasks. Regarding the sanding/leveling beams, then the sanding/leveling beams can work well, and there's generally nothing wrong with them, or course they're not able to perfectly maintain the fretboard radius, but for lighter strokes, they can work. Of course a radiused beam would make things easier - more consistent - especially if you need to remove extra material from the fretboard. It all really depends on the situation, I've found, and I've done a good deal of refrets - not one's the same :-) Sometimes I use the flat sanding/leveling beam and other times I use the radiused one - it varies. If not being careful, when using the radiused beams, and having aligned the correctly on the fretboard, then you might end up taking too much off of one particular spot, than actually getting it all even.. That's just another thing to keep in mind, and to check for, when working a beam like that :-) Also, I tend to use a small triangular file, to just slightly open up the top of the fret slots, in order for it to accept the fret better. I don't know if you did that? :-) Again, a very fine video, with lots of good information! Looking forward to watch the next part. Have a great day & cheers :-)
Yes, you're talking rubbish, I used the straight sanding bar to level 10 of my guitars with several radii from 7 to 16". Even professional luthiers like Crimsons using the straight sanding beam to level the frets.
Ok so if your re fretting a guitar the verry first thing you learn is radius.and I guarantee that long sanding beam and it's weight would sand that fretboard perfect. I bet you say you use the big sanding bock to level frets in which case is no different in sanding the fretboard by following the radius of the fretboard.if ya can't follow the radius to sand fretboard stay away because your obviously not mechanical inclined
I can't take advice from someone who doesn't understand that a file cuts in one direction only. You were rubbing that file back and forth along the fret ends.
Приколы
first id like to thank you for taking the time to show us the craft. I cant believe you have so many veiws but so little love. I hit the thumbs up long ago. wish I had the money for all those tools. ive messed up quite a few necks, not having the right tools, so I totally get what you said. ive got a neck that needs a refret, and that's how I came upon your video. crazy how you had to refret a warmoth neck, they should come perfect , considering how expensive they are!
With low areas that you cannot sand out I use a wet sponge and a soldering iron which steams the area and the timber (most of the time will pop out or up) and after a few tries at it I can get the timber to raise up enough to then gently sand back down to level with the rest of the area. Of course this has to be done carefully and make sure it has stayed raised after it has fully dried out. My dad went nuts when his granddaughter dragged a knife tip across his beautiful Oak dinner table gouging out a deep scratch. He didn't go nuts at his beloved little grandchild but moaned about it for months as the table cost £1750 secondhand and it looked a real mess. I told him I could do the repair but he thought I would further ruin the table so I did it when he went into hospital for a week for surgery on his spine. I got the whole gouge out and got it refinished by a guy in the local news paper. The next time we went round for Easter dinner he had the dinner mats out covering up the scratch which wasn't there anymore so I brought it up and my sister glared at me thinking here we go again as he would never let it drop. When I said where was the scratch he was perplexed so I fessed up and said I repaired it. He never said thanks son just moaned I should of got his permission first which would never of happened...lol. Long story I know but he passed last summer so these are now funny memories of the times when he was a great moaner...lol.
Wood sanding blocks work fine
I appreciate the work you’re doing in the video but respectfully disagree that a person can’t use a leveling bar to prep a fingerboard. Ultimately the process of doing fretwork becomes personalized for each person as they gain experience.
The main thing about doing fretwork is knowing how to do the work accurately and how to read the board. There are lots of additional factors that go into it before ever pulling a fret as well.
I'm listening
The leveling bars work well for getting a fingerboard straight along its length as does the long aluminum radius block. The leveling bars are especially handy when prepping a compound radius. The key is checking frequently as it’s being used. If you stay in one spot too long a flat spot can be created when checking with the radius gauge.
I agree the wood blocks are rarely perfect and will change over time but they are easier on our wallets.
The key is to understand the many factors that go into a quality fret job and check progress frequently.
If you where to compare before and after using both tools, the radius block results in better leveling with less work
many warmoth necks use a "compound" (conical) radius, so even a single radius leveler would not be correct.
I know
I have never ordered one from Warmoth but I was under the impression you order the neck with either a uniform (standard) or compound (conical) radius. Obviously the conical radius should allow for better action over the entire neck without sacrificing the ergonomics and playability near the the nut (lower frets).
You can raise the grain on the fingerboard by putting a little water on all of the low spots and using a clothes iron - set on hot - and then press it on the wet spots for a few seconds. That will raise the grain up; THEN sand the fingerboard.
Awesome advice
I have just refretted my esp ltd m-302 for the first time using stainless steel frets off of ebay and minimal tools.. It plays great, it feels great and thats all that matters to me. Im a guitar player, so if it feels good, sounds good thats all you need in my opinion.. it doesnt matter if youre using 1000 of dollars on tools to refret or level your frets if the person whos going to use it can settle with 2 factors: no fret buzz and good sound..
Good Job.
A very helpful video. One point: after cleaning the fret slots and checking that they are a very small amount deeper than the fret tang, it's usually a good idea to use a small triangular file to remove the top corners of the fret slot: it only takes a couple of light passes with the file (file towards the center of the fretboard, from both edges, to prevent possible chip-out). There will always be a very small radius between the underside of the fret crown and the tang, which would tend to compress the top edges of the slot, and sometimes preventing the fret from seating completely.
Also not too keen on the idea of having to hammer the fret, after the glue has hardened. One reason, I suppose to use glue which has a much longer setting time, though you wouldn't be able to use the spray hardener.
I hear what you are saying, but the procedure you are recommending is not to prevent chipout, its actually to help seat frets that are not completely flat or true at the tang and the bottom of the fret.
WHY are you using a hammer AFTER you used super-glue....super-glue that you said yourself bonds in 15 seconds? Don't you see the problem there? This is not the right way, sorry. You need hide glue. And use enough that it seeps out. You need specific measurements to ensure the tang has the room to go all the way in. And the neck is not full stable when you're using the fret press. I appreciate you wanting to show people this work, but there are too many things going wrong here.
i use dead blow hammers only. no press....practice makes perfect
many instrument makers use a plane to not only level the fretboard, but also to radius it. a sanding block is the same way, though it takes skill to get it right if you arent using a preshaped radius block.
If you’re ultimately hammering the frets because you didn’t seat it with the press, why not just initially use the hammer to install it to begin with?
Tell us more about the radiused metal leveller please. Where do we get them? How much? This is a darned good tool.
@Steve Crimsons are better
great work.....what size is that wire?
6100, If I remember correct it is .057 tall x .110 width
Hey there :-)
Thanks for this video - it's always interesting to see how other people go about these tasks.
Regarding the sanding/leveling beams, then the sanding/leveling beams can work well, and there's generally nothing wrong with them, or course they're not able to perfectly maintain the fretboard radius, but for lighter strokes, they can work. Of course a radiused beam would make things easier - more consistent - especially if you need to remove extra material from the fretboard. It all really depends on the situation, I've found, and I've done a good deal of refrets - not one's the same :-)
Sometimes I use the flat sanding/leveling beam and other times I use the radiused one - it varies.
If not being careful, when using the radiused beams, and having aligned the correctly on the fretboard, then you might end up taking too much off of one particular spot, than actually getting it all even.. That's just another thing to keep in mind, and to check for, when working a beam like that :-)
Also, I tend to use a small triangular file, to just slightly open up the top of the fret slots, in order for it to accept the fret better. I don't know if you did that? :-)
Again, a very fine video, with lots of good information!
Looking forward to watch the next part.
Have a great day & cheers :-)
Yes, you're talking rubbish, I used the straight sanding bar to level 10 of my guitars with several radii from 7 to 16".
Even professional luthiers like Crimsons using the straight sanding beam to level the frets.
Okay
Ok so if your re fretting a guitar the verry first thing you learn is radius.and I guarantee that long sanding beam and it's weight would sand that fretboard perfect. I bet you say you use the big sanding bock to level frets in which case is no different in sanding the fretboard by following the radius of the fretboard.if ya can't follow the radius to sand fretboard stay away because your obviously not mechanical inclined
Really ???
Really what?
I can't take advice from someone who doesn't understand that a file cuts in one direction only. You were rubbing that file back and forth along the fret ends.
Okay
Average... You can dry the super glue and then hammer on top of it !!!
That's not a good idea
Thanks. But you really shouldn't keep repeating everything in a few different ways. It tires the audience.
Make the point clearly and move along.