Can't thank you enough! I was wrestling with this D*mn clip almost 4 hours, then decided to check RUclips and see if anyone else had the same challenge, and what they did to conquer this beast. I may add - since this sensor sits in the water side, I wondered about "Pipe Dope"? Upon further research I discovered Toyota recommended using Permatex High temperature Sealant (the Red stuff). BTW...last August my alternator on my Honda Pilot took a dump. I happened to have the same pliers you're using and they worked.
Oh man I’m so glad I watched this video when I was frustrated in trying to grab the sensor…..I saw the comment and then watched the video maaaaan didn’t work, thank you
Will I fill both coolant compartments when bleeding system? Or just make sure smaller one is filled and then put funnel in the larger coolant and then bleed?
please help. prius 2012. random sporadic irreproducible engine overheating. typically, just a short flash of red T warning, accompanied with a splash of coolant out of the overflow tank. splash may be so big that coolant ends up on pass side doors. changed pump, thermostat, temperature sensor. appeared at the time to solve problem, then problem comes again. it was always sporadic. all this happened with NO check engine light and code. some ppl blame on clogged egr valve. took apart the intake manifold, yes, there was some dirt, but not terrible. finally, i got an innova 3130lat and autel mk808bt pro and checked the codes. now i have codes. one of them is P261C "pump B" thing. set autel to watch the temperature and the pump revolutions. short test drive. T reached 100 degC and the pump never moved. target speed was always 0 rpm. I am aware about rotor jammed, and no, my rotor was new when i installed it 4 months ago. the problem seems that the computer does not care that temperature is 100 and does not set target speed.................. what do i need: a new ecu? or reset -- reprogram the computer?
@@JamalAwad_ seems like that toyota had used poor quality gasket for some cars. toyota dealers used a boroscope and put pressure on the coolant system and found some seeping. very rarely, hot gasses would go tru and expand in the coolant system, making some coolant splash suddenly. buy a gasket from toyota, and change all seals and gaskets around. there are some under the valve cover, and some on the front under the chain cover. use a lot of grease on the NEW set of bolts. you can NOT reuse the head bolts!!! drive the bolts in and out 2 times to make sure the grease is all over the thread. then torque to 36 lb.ft, then add 90 degrees, then add 45 degrees. you need a M12 socket for the bolt heads, they are triple-square, or M12. I made a wire loop with a "tail" that I placed on the socket. this allowed me to turn exactly 90 and 45 degree. Do not rely on the wrench handle. it twists and there is some tolerance. watch several different youtube videos. ... egr: there is a particularly nasty bolt under the stainless heat exchanger, this bolt is not necessary. I saw smn cut the console, so did i. recommend to clean the egr completely. i used solvent, boiling water , compressed air... the stainless steel peace can be heated with gas torch to almost red hot. make sure you burn oil deposits. good luck.
@@west_park7993 thanks alot , i will consider that after checking the water pump once again because my heater also doesn't work after changing the water pump (aisin) , i will recheck the water pump because it makes some weird noises and if its ok , i will go to the head gasket solution
@@JamalAwad_ the pump has 4 prongs. when you apply 12 v on one pair, it starts spinning. dont remember exactly, think, it was one of the two diagonals.... if there is no heat, it means that the system is either dry, or jammed. take apart the entire system and flush with garden hose. set the heater to hot, so you pass water tru the heater core. then put a leaf blower to remove most of the residual tap water. then fill system with di water, run 5 min, drain and blow again before you refill. when it it is filled with di water, make sure the heater produces heat. if your system is blocked or partially filled, this is a big important thing to repair first. the system removes the air on its own. the overflow is at the top, and pump sucks from the bottom of the overflow tank.
HELP PLEASE. 2012 prius, 150,000 miles. random sporadic unpredictable overheating since june, finally Toyota determined it is a HG. got a set from rockauto, viktor reinz. The original HG appeared OK, nothing massive. Talked to a specialist, who convinced me that the leak is minor, and invisible, but enough to send exhaust gases into the coolant sometimes. Test for exhaust gases in coolant was negative. Also, coolant was clear pink, no sediment, no mud, no discoloration. Anyway, I just finished the job, and the overheating is now full time. test driving with autel mk808bt watching temperature and pump revolution. temperature was 80+ and then went all the way to 101. I stopped several times to let temperature go down to 90 to come back home. Even at 101 the radiator fans were OFF. They are supposed to turn on at 92 or 95. If I turn the AC on, then they begin to spin, meaning they are not busted, and the relays are OK. I was very careful to reconnect all electrical wires. Did I miss any? I made detailed description in my car logbook of every simple step I took. I worked slowly and meticulously. Today took apart and flushed the radiators with garden hose . Coolant and water came out clean. No sediments, no deposits. Should I prepare a publication for the SAE International Journal of Engines? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
@@alltsab this is the first i changed few months ago. i was driving with autel monitoring the temperature and the pump target speed and the pump speed.
@@alltsab actually the water pump never go bad. the spinning rotor plastic may swell. change the turbine-rotor only. i recently re-installed the original water pump and is fine.
Thank you so much. I just got mine changed today for my Toyota Prius V.
Wonderful my friend ❤️
Can't thank you enough! I was wrestling with this D*mn clip almost 4 hours, then decided to check RUclips and see if anyone else had the same challenge, and what they did to conquer this beast. I may add - since this sensor sits in the water side, I wondered about "Pipe Dope"? Upon further research I discovered Toyota recommended using Permatex High temperature Sealant (the Red stuff). BTW...last August my alternator on my Honda Pilot took a dump. I happened to have the same pliers you're using and they worked.
You welcome and thanks for watching my video
Very good job bro tahnks for your time
@@jorgemora7190 you welcome 🙏
The pliers were the trick! Thank you - subscribed!
Thank you so much for helping subscribe 💗 very appreciated 😊
Oh man I’m so glad I watched this video when I was frustrated in trying to grab the sensor…..I saw the comment and then watched the video maaaaan didn’t work, thank you
How long are those pliers? They look like 16" from here, but just checking. About to go buy a pair.
Your videos is awesome and excellent. GOOD JOB.Thank you.
Thank you. This saved me $1100
You welcome
MIGHT AS WELL REMOVE THE EGR AND CLEAN IT AND GET EASY ACCESS THE COOLANT SENSOR AS WELL
סרטונים מדהימים ואיכותיים מישראל ❤
Will I fill both coolant compartments when bleeding system? Or just make sure smaller one is filled and then put funnel in the larger coolant and then bleed?
Tank you
please help. prius 2012. random sporadic irreproducible engine overheating. typically, just a short flash of red T warning, accompanied with a splash of coolant out of the overflow tank. splash may be so big that coolant ends up on pass side doors. changed pump, thermostat, temperature sensor. appeared at the time to solve problem, then problem comes again. it was always sporadic. all this happened with NO check engine light and code. some ppl blame on clogged egr valve. took apart the intake manifold, yes, there was some dirt, but not terrible. finally, i got an innova 3130lat and autel mk808bt pro and checked the codes. now i have codes. one of them is P261C "pump B" thing. set autel to watch the temperature and the pump revolutions. short test drive. T reached 100 degC and the pump never moved. target speed was always 0 rpm. I am aware about rotor jammed, and no, my rotor was new when i installed it 4 months ago. the problem seems that the computer does not care that temperature is 100 and does not set target speed.................. what do i need: a new ecu? or reset -- reprogram the computer?
You just reflecting my own problem too , how do you fix that ? Thanks
@@JamalAwad_ seems like that toyota had used poor quality gasket for some cars. toyota dealers used a boroscope and put pressure on the coolant system and found some seeping. very rarely, hot gasses would go tru and expand in the coolant system, making some coolant splash suddenly. buy a gasket from toyota, and change all seals and gaskets around. there are some under the valve cover, and some on the front under the chain cover. use a lot of grease on the NEW set of bolts. you can NOT reuse the head bolts!!! drive the bolts in and out 2 times to make sure the grease is all over the thread. then torque to 36 lb.ft, then add 90 degrees, then add 45 degrees. you need a M12 socket for the bolt heads, they are triple-square, or M12. I made a wire loop with a "tail" that I placed on the socket. this allowed me to turn exactly 90 and 45 degree. Do not rely on the wrench handle. it twists and there is some tolerance. watch several different youtube videos. ... egr: there is a particularly nasty bolt under the stainless heat exchanger, this bolt is not necessary. I saw smn cut the console, so did i. recommend to clean the egr completely. i used solvent, boiling water , compressed air... the stainless steel peace can be heated with gas torch to almost red hot. make sure you burn oil deposits. good luck.
@@west_park7993 thanks alot , i will consider that after checking the water pump once again because my heater also doesn't work after changing the water pump (aisin) , i will recheck the water pump because it makes some weird noises and if its ok , i will go to the head gasket solution
@@JamalAwad_ the pump has 4 prongs. when you apply 12 v on one pair, it starts spinning. dont remember exactly, think, it was one of the two diagonals.... if there is no heat, it means that the system is either dry, or jammed. take apart the entire system and flush with garden hose. set the heater to hot, so you pass water tru the heater core. then put a leaf blower to remove most of the residual tap water. then fill system with di water, run 5 min, drain and blow again before you refill. when it it is filled with di water, make sure the heater produces heat. if your system is blocked or partially filled, this is a big important thing to repair first. the system removes the air on its own. the overflow is at the top, and pump sucks from the bottom of the overflow tank.
@@west_park7993you are life save 🙃🙏🏻
When doing this job did you disconnect the battery negative side and kill power to hybrid system?
No
Do you have to drain the coolant?
No but make you put a tray to catch drip coolant
Good work.
HELP PLEASE. 2012 prius, 150,000 miles. random sporadic unpredictable overheating since june, finally Toyota determined it is a HG. got a set from rockauto, viktor reinz. The original HG appeared OK, nothing massive. Talked to a specialist, who convinced me that the leak is minor, and invisible, but enough to send exhaust gases into the coolant sometimes. Test for exhaust gases in coolant was negative. Also, coolant was clear pink, no sediment, no mud, no discoloration. Anyway, I just finished the job, and the overheating is now full time. test driving with autel mk808bt watching temperature and pump revolution. temperature was 80+ and then went all the way to 101. I stopped several times to let temperature go down to 90 to come back home. Even at 101 the radiator fans were OFF. They are supposed to turn on at 92 or 95. If I turn the AC on, then they begin to spin, meaning they are not busted, and the relays are OK. I was very careful to reconnect all electrical wires. Did I miss any? I made detailed description in my car logbook of every simple step I took. I worked slowly and meticulously. Today took apart and flushed the radiators with garden hose . Coolant and water came out clean. No sediments, no deposits. Should I prepare a publication for the SAE International Journal of Engines? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Check the water pump
@@alltsab this is the first i changed few months ago. i was driving with autel monitoring the temperature and the pump target speed and the pump speed.
@@alltsab actually the water pump never go bad. the spinning rotor plastic may swell. change the turbine-rotor only. i recently re-installed the original water pump and is fine.
@@west_park7993 that will definitely save some money there
How long did it take to swap out?
How do you remove the extra coolant from the funnel?
There is a stick that came with the funnel to plug it or if you don't have one you can used finger to plug it and take it out.
@@alltsab much appreciated brother
@@oc9215 np
Whats part number i guess that is 2 sensors 2 different part number
Thank you in advance
I showing in this video
Zerex valvoline antifreeze coolant?
zerex or peak, does not matter: make sure it has phosphates anticorosion.
👍👍👍