Good video except for one thing. When pressing the hub on, make sure you support the center portion of the bearing on the other side or you could damage the bearing.
Well done. I'm both a mechanic and an M.E. - and good instructions are harder to write/video than you might think! Good technique, safety tips, easy to follow.
That's how I feel about all their repair videos. And, they sell TRQ parts, which in my opinion are great quality. I have 3 year old struts and lower control arms with the ball joint that have over 30,000 miles and still like new but they are 1/4 the cost of the genuine Toyota and nissan parts cost. But when you compare them side by side they are identical. And the toyota lower control arms for my fj cruiser, weight is identical with high quality welds
Just followed it to a tee and only had one issue. When pressing the hub back in it started pressing the inside of the new bearing out. Had to flip the whole thing over and press it to keep them together until the hub was properly seated. Beyond that nice job and nice that you included all the torque settings.
great video from start to finish. nothing left out. simple to follow. got two to replace on my nissan versa. all i need now is the tool to break the tie rod free.
** NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ** This video is the best video so far I have seen on front bearing replacement on my nissan 2012 versa sedan and encouraged me to go ahead with my front wheel bearing replacement. Rented most of the tools for the job, took out lug nuts, wheel, brake caliper & bracket, rotor, tie-rod, strut bolts, lower ball-joint pinch bolt but did not pull the ball-joint off the knuckle 'cause I did not have fork tool. But I then noticed axle does not seem to budge out of hub at all, hammered bit hard on axle end to push it out of hub while making sure axle threads are not stripped, tried rust penetrant etc, no luck with that, axle does not move at all. Still no movement in axle. So I had to put everything back and am now wondering if I should have checked if axle was loose through the hub first while tire was still on the ground, I mean, right after breaking loose the lug nuts, and axle nut out? I hoped there would be a little bit of wiggle room or play (an inch may be) for axle to break loose from the hub right after taking lug nut out. Am I confused? Appreciate if someone can help.
Excellent video my friend. Liked and subscribed!! My question though is how do you know the bearing is bad to begin with and when you replace it should you do both sides ?
+TheDopalgangr Thank you for your feedback! Bad bearing are usually associated with a roaring sound, but please consult with a reputable mechanic about any diagnosis. We look forward to working with you in the future.
Thank you for the video... does anyone know an idea of the cost to have a mechanic do the replacement for both front wheels? I was quoted $685 for everything, including tax. Thanks!
For people struggling with the lower ball joint, might as well took the whole control arm off. btw, if you don't want the strut to rip the CV boot, wrap towl around the boot.
I have a 2015 Nissan versa and I have followed your steps to get the hub assembly off of which worked very well the only problem is my bearing is different than yours when I took off the hub assembly the inner part of the bearing has a spline with grooves that fit perfectly on the axle. The bearing I ordered was supposed to have been the correct bearing and it looks like yours but there’s no way that the bearing I ordered is the correct size and it definitely does not look anything like the bearing that is currently in my original hub assembly. Can anybody help.
do you *have* to open the bleeder at the caliper when pressing in the piston? I didn't. I also don't see it show in the video but some people swear by doing it. Thoughts?
Wow. All that to replace bearing. How can you tell if it goes bad? When I get to 30 mph my steering wheel shakes or vibrates back n forth really bad. I was like wtf. Scary. Then it stops when I slow down. I hv new tires. It drove fine for a month after. Now this. My brake light been on for a while but I assume I needed new pads. I get oil changed each 3 months and they Check fluids. Sooo. It does vibrate some when breaking like my rotors are warped. But only a slight vibrate. This shaking when going 30-40 was BAD. Sigh. Any ideas. 2008 Nissan Versa
At this moment, the closest how-to video we have to your request is for this vehicle, which is very similar to the one you have. The steps may not be 100% the same, but should contain an adequate amount of information necessary for accomplishing this task: +Marvin Bautista
Ball joint nut and bolt. The bolt you can see in the video is no problem. But on my 15 versa s sedan I tried to pop the ball joint off like he did in the video and it just busted my ball joint. There is what appears to be a hex bolt on top that secures the ball joint and when I turned that probably 30 turns nothing happens. Does anyone know about this and why this step was skipped in the video? Thanks
If you go to AutoZone or Advance Auto they can rent a kit that you can press the bearing in and out without having to take the knuckle off of the car. Sometimes people will remove the knuckle like he did and bring it to a machine shop or garage with a press and pay them to press the old one out and the new one in.
you can beat out the hub if you got some sturdy wood blocks to support, get a socket same diameter as hub and with a few solid hits it should come out, the bearing can also come out using same method, BUT to install you CANNOT beat on a new bearing. New bearing has to be pressed in. with bearing installing tool, when times are desperate if you take the old outside race of the old bearing you can use it to tap in with slowly but there is a good chance of hindering the life of the bearing you are installing
you can get kits off ebay or amazon that use plates and a large nut and bolt to press bearings in and out - used mine several times on my Note to do this
+Charlie Angle It may be a different procedure on your application. We currently do not have an auto repair video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto it's okay. When I jacked up my car I found a piece of plastic was hanging this whole time making the grinding noise. I clipped it back to the car and not to my surprise the noise stopped. Thank God that's what it was
I knew a crackhead that used the jack and the weight of the car to press dat shit out but even he said he just tells ppl to buy the whole thing used or new then he used Vaseline for grease
+Conrad Lincoln By torquing these at manufacturer's torque specs, it will ensure evenness and stability between the wheel bearings on either side of the car while traveling at high speeds. Same reason it's a good idea to torque your lug nuts.
Most obnoxious amount of commercials I've ever seen in a video! About 30 minutes of commercials with 3 minutes of instructional video. Makes me think 1A Auto must be either going outta business, or shameless profiteering scum. I wouldn't trust buying anything from them But good video besides all the commercials.
@@1AAuto Thanks for doing so. I though the same as Joseph as well, but I've worked some on cars. I know I would have appreciated that when I first started. For everyone else, you can fast forward 10 second on RUclips using certain keys :)
280 labor and 80 for new hub with bearing, or just go to the trouble of replacing the bearing for about 40 each. depending on whos doing it, 360 to over 500 dollars. wish you could get it done for 80 per side.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Good video except for one thing. When pressing the hub on, make sure you support the center portion of the bearing on the other side or you could damage the bearing.
Well done. I'm both a mechanic and an M.E. - and good instructions are harder to write/video than you might think! Good technique, safety tips, easy to follow.
this is without a doubt the best how to video i have ever seen... right to the point...no messing around great clear photography.
+ROGER VANBUSKIRK Thanks so much for checking us out!
That's how I feel about all their repair videos. And, they sell TRQ parts, which in my opinion are great quality. I have 3 year old struts and lower control arms with the ball joint that have over 30,000 miles and still like new but they are 1/4 the cost of the genuine Toyota and nissan parts cost. But when you compare them side by side they are identical. And the toyota lower control arms for my fj cruiser, weight is identical with high quality welds
THANK YOU FOR INCLUDING THE AXLE NUT TORQUE SPEC! It's so important! 👍
Just followed it to a tee and only had one issue. When pressing the hub back in it started pressing the inside of the new bearing out. Had to flip the whole thing over and press it to keep them together until the hub was properly seated. Beyond that nice job and nice that you included all the torque settings.
+TheDopalgangr Thanks for the feedback! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
great video from start to finish. nothing left out. simple to follow. got two to replace on my nissan versa. all i need now is the tool to break the tie rod free.
Thanks for the great feedback! +neil tuttle
They forgot how to take the axle out the hub
Presente: cordial saludo desde Sonora México, muy buena clase 👍🔧🔩🔨
** NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ** This video is the best video so far I have seen on front bearing replacement on my nissan 2012 versa sedan and encouraged me to go ahead with my front wheel bearing replacement. Rented most of the tools for the job, took out lug nuts, wheel, brake caliper & bracket, rotor, tie-rod, strut bolts, lower ball-joint pinch bolt but did not pull the ball-joint off the knuckle 'cause I did not have fork tool. But I then noticed axle does not seem to budge out of hub at all, hammered bit hard on axle end to push it out of hub while making sure axle threads are not stripped, tried rust penetrant etc, no luck with that, axle does not move at all. Still no movement in axle. So I had to put everything back and am now wondering if I should have checked if axle was loose through the hub first while tire was still on the ground, I mean, right after breaking loose the lug nuts, and axle nut out? I hoped there would be a little bit of wiggle room or play (an inch may be) for axle to break loose from the hub right after taking lug nut out. Am I confused? Appreciate if someone can help.
People do not ever hit the threads ever
Underrated comment
Excellent video my friend. Liked and subscribed!!
My question though is how do you know the bearing is bad to begin with and when you replace it should you do both sides ?
+TheDopalgangr Thank you for your feedback! Bad bearing are usually associated with a roaring sound, but please consult with a reputable mechanic about any diagnosis. We look forward to working with you in the future.
Thank you so much- This video was so helpful.
You can hit the wheel speed sensor with some penetrating oil to get it out of the hole.
Thank you for the video... does anyone know an idea of the cost to have a mechanic do the replacement for both front wheels? I was quoted $685 for everything, including tax. Thanks!
For people struggling with the lower ball joint, might as well took the whole control arm off. btw, if you don't want the strut to rip the CV boot, wrap towl around the boot.
Nice. Great video, thank you.
Are you able to buy an assembly with the bearing already pressed ?? Or does Nissan not have assemblies and just bearings for this year ??
I have a 2015 Nissan versa and I have followed your steps to get the hub assembly off of which worked very well the only problem is my bearing is different than yours when I took off the hub assembly the inner part of the bearing has a spline with grooves that fit perfectly on the axle. The bearing I ordered was supposed to have been the correct bearing and it looks like yours but there’s no way that the bearing I ordered is the correct size and it definitely does not look anything like the bearing that is currently in my original hub assembly. Can anybody help.
Excellent vid
i only do back bearing cause i dont have a press or that other tool 😂 plus seems like a lot more work and things that can go wrong
Couldn't you use a slide hammer/puller rather than having to undo the ball joint and tie rod? Seems like it would be easier.
do you *have* to open the bleeder at the caliper when pressing in the piston? I didn't. I also don't see it show in the video but some people swear by doing it. Thoughts?
Not necessarily. Ive done it that way and also just open the cap of the master cylinder and compress the piston.
Wow. All that to replace bearing. How can you tell if it goes bad? When I get to 30 mph my steering wheel shakes or vibrates back n forth really bad. I was like wtf. Scary. Then it stops when I slow down. I hv new tires. It drove fine for a month after. Now this. My brake light been on for a while but I assume I needed new pads. I get oil changed each 3 months and they Check fluids. Sooo. It does vibrate some when breaking like my rotors are warped. But only a slight vibrate. This shaking when going 30-40 was BAD. Sigh. Any ideas. 2008 Nissan Versa
I can't believe you hit the threaded part of the tie rod end to get it free what up with that good luck putting the nut back on ...... Never do that
Get some snap ring pliers
What’s the part number for the front wheel bearings? It won’t show anything for front bearings only rear.
Is the process the same for a 2012 Sentra SR?
At this moment, the closest how-to video we have to your request is for this vehicle, which is very similar to the one you have. The steps may not be 100% the same, but should contain an adequate amount of information necessary for accomplishing this task: +Marvin Bautista
Is that a Harbor Freight Tools press?
Do you have the info on the set up adaptor plates that the hub sits on? And where I can order them?
You will have to order steel 4x4 blocks from a local machine shop, they are about the only source for press blocks of the size used in the video.
Ball joint nut and bolt. The bolt you can see in the video is no problem. But on my 15 versa s sedan I tried to pop the ball joint off like he did in the video and it just busted my ball joint. There is what appears to be a hex bolt on top that secures the ball joint and when I turned that probably 30 turns nothing happens. Does anyone know about this and why this step was skipped in the video? Thanks
Bolt is stripped probably
Never use your own body parts as a hammer. You will regret it when you're older.
13:26 I dont have one of those pressers, is there any other way to take out the bearing?
If you go to AutoZone or Advance Auto they can rent a kit that you can press the bearing in and out without having to take the knuckle off of the car. Sometimes people will remove the knuckle like he did and bring it to a machine shop or garage with a press and pay them to press the old one out and the new one in.
you can beat out the hub if you got some sturdy wood blocks to support, get a socket same diameter as hub and with a few solid hits it should come out, the bearing can also come out using same method, BUT to install you CANNOT beat on a new bearing. New bearing has to be pressed in. with bearing installing tool, when times are desperate if you take the old outside race of the old bearing you can use it to tap in with slowly but there is a good chance of hindering the life of the bearing you are installing
you can get kits off ebay or amazon that use plates and a large nut and bolt to press bearings in and out - used mine several times on my Note to do this
He didn't use not one pneumatic tool or battery driven tool.
Don’t have a press so I’ll be Hammering these back in😮😢
Any difference for a 2010 nissan versa hatchback?
+Gvaz The installation of the parts should be very similar. Thanks for checking us out!
Will this work with a 2007???
+Charlie Angle It may be a different procedure on your application. We currently do not have an auto repair video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto it's okay. When I jacked up my car I found a piece of plastic was hanging this whole time making the grinding noise. I clipped it back to the car and not to my surprise the noise stopped. Thank God that's what it was
I knew a crackhead that used the jack and the weight of the car to press dat shit out but even he said he just tells ppl to buy the whole thing used or new then he used Vaseline for grease
We don't salt our roads down south so our wheel bearing last a lot longer
+Kris Lively Lively Thanks for checking us out!
180 ft lbs for the axle nut
maybe a rubber mat under that press...just sayin :)
Why are u turking all of these nuts?
+Conrad Lincoln By torquing these at manufacturer's torque specs, it will ensure evenness and stability between the wheel bearings on either side of the car while traveling at high speeds. Same reason it's a good idea to torque your lug nuts.
Most obnoxious amount of commercials I've ever seen in a video! About 30 minutes of commercials with 3 minutes of instructional video. Makes me think 1A Auto must be either going outta business, or shameless profiteering scum. I wouldn't trust buying anything from them But good video besides all the commercials.
Hubs are cheap. Buy a new one..
Good video but too long, you can easily save 50% of the video by editing unnecessary parts like removing lugs
+Joseph Rivera Thanks for the input, but we like to show the entire process from start to finish for any viewers that are new to automotive repairs
Helped me out a lot. About the only video I could find that showed the entire process for a guy doing it himself. Thanks A1
@@1AAuto Thanks for doing so. I though the same as Joseph as well, but I've worked some on cars. I know I would have appreciated that when I first started.
For everyone else, you can fast forward 10 second on RUclips using certain keys :)
You can just fast forward to the part you want to view.
I actually prefer seeing the entire process. It gives me an idea of how long it's going to take to do the job.
I guess 80 bucks per side good pay
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +new one
280 labor and 80 for new hub with bearing, or just go to the trouble of replacing the bearing for about 40 each. depending on whos doing it, 360 to over 500 dollars. wish you could get it done for 80 per side.
Great video
+Gary White Thank you!