Thanks for the ideas. I have an E-Pro 19FD with 1200w of solar and 680ah of LiFePo4 batteries I built...was just pondering how to run coax inside. Perfect timing. As always, great information. Thank you for all your contributions to the hobby and community. 73 de K3XQ
that was great. I have worked on some RV's . what I ran into quite often is RFI comings from solar MPPT controllers and DC to AC inverters. not only does this interferes with HF ham also AM radio as well. the fix I found is ferrite T240-43 or 31 cores. make a common mode choke with power cord + and - wound together . place close but MPPT. use 2. 1 for solar input and 1 for battery side. Victron MPPT has been better than most. with the DC to AC inverter do the same. the AC out leads wrap threw the ferrite. now on battery side may be large cables. can try the snap ferrite or get a large 4in or 6 in core and wrap large wire like 0 AWG threw it. AWG depends on size of inverter. I did this with my MPPT on my portable battery kit box and worked great. for them power stations just wrap AC cord threw the ferrite core a few times . of a few snap cores. for cold places just insulate battery . that thin foam insulation works great . I just cut it and place inside battery box . this helps on heated LiFePO4 as well. less heater comes on is more DC power you have. 73's
This video just popped up on my suggestions, and I'm glad I gave it a watch! After browsing through your other videos, I just had to subscribe. My retirement plans include taking off in an RV, and I was glad to see a clean install.
I ran wires from my dc bus, (fuse box) under the couch, up to my FTM 200. There was an open spot to put a new line and I put a fuse in the box. So I am running on power from the 12v converter. Running good now for about a month, no problems. I also put an inline amp, watts, volt meter to keep check on the situation. I am full time in my RV at an RV park. KO6ALP 73s
I'm using the same Weize 100ah battery in my teardrop. It's solid. I can do a 3-day weekend in a heavy shaded campsite and not worry about the DC fridge depleting the battery.
Got a Geopro also, gonna have to look for an stl file for printing some ladder mounts. Most of the time that solar on the side is wired backwards from the factory.
I didn't print the ladder mounts but if you find an STL, please let me know. I did 3D print a shower head mount for the ladder. The factory mount was about waist level which I found less than ideal.
If you you want an additional charging option for when you are driving on very dull days, or at night. Get a 12V to 24V 30A DC/DC Convertor from Amazon Wire it via a 25A Fuse/Breaker to the normal Vehicle Battery Then use the 24V to feed into the solar input on your charge controller input either by swappable connectors or change over switch
There are DC-DC boost chargers on the RV market (Renogy, Victron, et al) that are made to connect between the trailer and the vehicle, and they regulate voltage and limit current to reasonable values to charge and maintain the trailer batteries (and are programmable for chemistry). Some even have sophisticated detection to figure out when the vehicle is running so they only charge then. No need to jury rig this. 73 de w6akb.
@@alanb76 Yes, Well aware of Renogy / Victron and the "prices"... Amazon UK it cost equivalent of $45 for my DC/DC option So jerry-rigged is fine by me :) FYI going the Renogy DC/DC route @ $102
@@4X4-RADIO There are cheaper solutions if that's what you are seeking - various DC-DC converters that will feed directly into battery and avoid the solar input. The solar input is not designed for this use, and passing the energy through two control/conversion stages adds to the overall system loss which ends up burning more vehicle fuel. Depending on the individual characteristics of the solar controller and DC-DC converter there may be failure modes. The cheapest solution is to not bother at all since the amount of charging one gets when driving is not usually significant enough to bother with for most RVers in the overall scheme of things and adding engine load is not a cheap source of energy. Instead put that investment into solar panels which will have more overall benefit and will charge while driving and parked and not add to the engine load. Have fun!
@@alanb76 This is supplementary The Charge controller does not know if the input is from Solar or DC/DC convertor, how can it..?? So long as you stay within the MPPT Voltage/Current range it's fine
@@4X4-RADIO MPPT will increase loading to maximize power transfer. There is no guarantee that this operating point will be within the safe operating area of the DC-DC converter, especially in all ambient conditions, and is likely to overheat the converter. It may work, but it's a random design without overall safety margin management.
Good work! I am hoping to get a camper and fit it for ham radio, and this gives me ideas. Do you have any thoughts on how to make antennas work without compromising the camper? Besides the obvious option of running coax to something else. Currently I have a 1/2" copper pipe j-pole for 2m and a home brew wire for HF.
Question! Kd2giy here, how do you combat the noise coming from the generator when operating? Also do you get any noise from your inverter in your camper? How do you deal with these things? 73
I absolutely love the content you share. I have been following you for awhile now. I have my technician license but I am looking to learn more. Any suggestions
That is a loaded question :-) There are so MANY rabbit holes you can explore as a tech. APRS, Winlink over 2M, and satellites, just to name a few. Pick a topic and then do a RUclips search. You will come up with plenty of ideas to keep you busy for the next year or more.
Any issues with noise from the ac inverter/converter that is rv stock? Mine creates a lot of rfi. It comes from the charger built into it. Thinking of putting the charger on its own breaker and shutting it off when I go radio. Then using solar to replenish the 12v side.
Nice set up! The joys of modern RV's, they are equipped with this latest power systems from factory even if we need to order them as extras with some manufactures. Your add ones are clean and to the point. Take a moment and add some split loom tubing on that small section from the battery to the entryway of the RV. Will add extra protection to the wires. What size fuse did you use on the battery connection? 73 from SV9 land!
Off-Grid Power Systems here in Ohio specializes in mobile solar system sales and services and is owned by a ham. Please let us know if we can ever help in the future.
I have the same Champion Dual Fuel 2500 and it is a touch quieter (in my experience). Consideration must be taken though that the generator won't produce as high a wattage as it would if you were fueling it with gasoline. Propane fuel has a lower BTU rating than gasoline.
@@k3xq856 okay, thanks for the info. My old work van lost about 35% power on propane. I must look into them, I have an old 3500kva petrol generator. Still work great but it's loud, I need to try some silencers on the exhaust but it doesn't run on propane they didn't have the capability at the time.
The generator might be just a touch quieter on propane. There is a reduction in power output running on propane though. I had to install an AC softstart so it would run the AC from the generator while running on propane. Since the install, I have had no issues running the AC.
Those are some great upgrades. Wish mine came with a ladder for easier pole mounting. Was your converter set to charge a LiFePo4 or did you have to upgrade that as well? 73 de KC3QLX
My converter isn't designed for and won't charge the LiFePO4 battery beyond ~70%. The solar panels charge the battery up to 100% though. The solar charge controller will support LiFePO4 batteries.
With that generator on propane you will suck down a tank in about 3 hours. The use a ton of propane. On gas you probably get about 9 to 10 hours + on a tank.
@@KM4ACK On one of our trailers we had an RV dealer weld a 2" receiver on the back, and we use a tray that plugs in there. Our current trailer came with a receiver for that. We had one trailer that had a slide out tray built in, but that broke up after some years. Many new trailers have fold-down trays at the back, those could probably be added to a trailer as well. I think the receiver is best because we can use a tray or a bike rack there. Have fun! 73 de w6akb
From all of my research, solar on the side doesn't feed into the charge controller even though the charge controller came from the factory. Makes no sense to me. This doesn't just apply to E-Pros. Seems they are all wired that way. It is nice that I have on outside 12V outlet though!
@@KM4ACK mine has the ZAMP solar ready plug, it's reverse polarity and no charge controller at all - it's just a direct feed to the battery and ready for disaster!
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Sneaking [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ILUps2zDFU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the ideas. I have an E-Pro 19FD with 1200w of solar and 680ah of LiFePo4 batteries I built...was just pondering how to run coax inside. Perfect timing. As always, great information. Thank you for all your contributions to the hobby and community. 73 de K3XQ
WOW!! That's a LOT of battery capacity. Where did you put them?
I was considering the E-Pro RV trailer in the future, but I have seen how RV prices have skyrocketed. 73 KD5YOU
that was great. I have worked on some RV's . what I ran into quite often is RFI comings from solar MPPT controllers and DC to AC inverters. not only does this interferes with HF ham also AM radio as well. the fix I found is ferrite T240-43 or 31 cores. make a common mode choke with power cord + and - wound together . place close but MPPT. use 2. 1 for solar input and 1 for battery side. Victron MPPT has been better than most. with the DC to AC inverter do the same. the AC out leads wrap threw the ferrite. now on battery side may be large cables. can try the snap ferrite or get a large 4in or 6 in core and wrap large wire like 0 AWG threw it. AWG depends on size of inverter. I did this with my MPPT on my portable battery kit box and worked great. for them power stations just wrap AC cord threw the ferrite core a few times . of a few snap cores. for cold places just insulate battery . that thin foam insulation works great . I just cut it and place inside battery box . this helps on heated LiFePO4 as well. less heater comes on is more DC power you have. 73's
This video just popped up on my suggestions, and I'm glad I gave it a watch! After browsing through your other videos, I just had to subscribe. My retirement plans include taking off in an RV, and I was glad to see a clean install.
That is pretty awesome Sir. I'm a Ham and am 4 months into the RV industry for work. Really appreciate your mods. Sweet work and set up!
Excellent! I have been looking for a way to bring coax into the RV. I'm going to check out the outdoor shower route. Thanks!
I ran wires from my dc bus, (fuse box) under the couch, up to my FTM 200. There was an open spot to put a new line and I put a fuse in the box. So I am running on power from the 12v converter. Running good now for about a month, no problems. I also put an inline amp, watts, volt meter to keep check on the situation. I am full time in my RV at an RV park. KO6ALP 73s
Nice upgrades to make your RV radioactive!
I have had the WiFi Ranger for a couple of years. Rock solid and does what it is supposed to do. 73 de Don KM6TRZ
It's one of the most used things in the RV :-)
Some pretty effective upgrades. Nice work!
I love the rig, I am building my trailer now.
I'm using the same Weize 100ah battery in my teardrop. It's solid. I can do a 3-day weekend in a heavy shaded campsite and not worry about the DC fridge depleting the battery.
I have been pleasantly surprised with the battery and would recommend it to anyone. It was great to work you recently during your POTA!
Got a Geopro also, gonna have to look for an stl file for printing some ladder mounts. Most of the time that solar on the side is wired backwards from the factory.
I didn't print the ladder mounts but if you find an STL, please let me know. I did 3D print a shower head mount for the ladder. The factory mount was about waist level which I found less than ideal.
Thanks for this video. Very useful info. I have a TAB 320S that I want to make some of the same mods. 73
If you you want an additional charging option for when you are driving on very dull days, or at night.
Get a 12V to 24V 30A DC/DC Convertor from Amazon
Wire it via a 25A Fuse/Breaker to the normal Vehicle Battery
Then use the 24V to feed into the solar input on your charge controller input either by swappable connectors or change over switch
There are DC-DC boost chargers on the RV market (Renogy, Victron, et al) that are made to connect between the trailer and the vehicle, and they regulate voltage and limit current to reasonable values to charge and maintain the trailer batteries (and are programmable for chemistry). Some even have sophisticated detection to figure out when the vehicle is running so they only charge then. No need to jury rig this. 73 de w6akb.
@@alanb76
Yes, Well aware of Renogy / Victron and the "prices"...
Amazon UK it cost equivalent of $45 for my DC/DC option
So jerry-rigged is fine by me :)
FYI going the Renogy DC/DC route @ $102
@@4X4-RADIO There are cheaper solutions if that's what you are seeking - various DC-DC converters that will feed directly into battery and avoid the solar input. The solar input is not designed for this use, and passing the energy through two control/conversion stages adds to the overall system loss which ends up burning more vehicle fuel. Depending on the individual characteristics of the solar controller and DC-DC converter there may be failure modes. The cheapest solution is to not bother at all since the amount of charging one gets when driving is not usually significant enough to bother with for most RVers in the overall scheme of things and adding engine load is not a cheap source of energy. Instead put that investment into solar panels which will have more overall benefit and will charge while driving and parked and not add to the engine load. Have fun!
@@alanb76
This is supplementary
The Charge controller does not know if the input is from Solar or DC/DC convertor, how can it..??
So long as you stay within the MPPT Voltage/Current range it's fine
@@4X4-RADIO MPPT will increase loading to maximize power transfer. There is no guarantee that this operating point will be within the safe operating area of the DC-DC converter, especially in all ambient conditions, and is likely to overheat the converter. It may work, but it's a random design without overall safety margin management.
Good work! I am hoping to get a camper and fit it for ham radio, and this gives me ideas. Do you have any thoughts on how to make antennas work without compromising the camper? Besides the obvious option of running coax to something else. Currently I have a 1/2" copper pipe j-pole for 2m and a home brew wire for HF.
Cool work. I'm lazy, just use the gear in my tow vehicle.
Question! Kd2giy here, how do you combat the noise coming from the generator when operating? Also do you get any noise from your inverter in your camper? How do you deal with these things? 73
I absolutely love the content you share. I have been following you for awhile now. I have my technician license but I am looking to learn more. Any suggestions
That is a loaded question :-) There are so MANY rabbit holes you can explore as a tech. APRS, Winlink over 2M, and satellites, just to name a few. Pick a topic and then do a RUclips search. You will come up with plenty of ideas to keep you busy for the next year or more.
@@KM4ACK thanks so much for the feed back
Any issues with noise from the ac inverter/converter that is rv stock? Mine creates a lot of rfi. It comes from the charger built into it. Thinking of putting the charger on its own breaker and shutting it off when I go radio. Then using solar to replenish the 12v side.
Nice set up! The joys of modern RV's, they are equipped with this latest power systems from factory even if we need to order them as extras with some manufactures. Your add ones are clean and to the point. Take a moment and add some split loom tubing on that small section from the battery to the entryway of the RV. Will add extra protection to the wires. What size fuse did you use on the battery connection? 73 from SV9 land!
I used a 30A fuse
Off-Grid Power Systems here in Ohio specializes in mobile solar system sales and services and is owned by a ham. Please let us know if we can ever help in the future.
Great setup you have there!
Is the propane generator quieter on propane?
I have the same Champion Dual Fuel 2500 and it is a touch quieter (in my experience). Consideration must be taken though that the generator won't produce as high a wattage as it would if you were fueling it with gasoline. Propane fuel has a lower BTU rating than gasoline.
@@k3xq856 okay, thanks for the info. My old work van lost about 35% power on propane. I must look into them, I have an old 3500kva petrol generator. Still work great but it's loud, I need to try some silencers on the exhaust but it doesn't run on propane they didn't have the capability at the time.
The generator might be just a touch quieter on propane. There is a reduction in power output running on propane though. I had to install an AC softstart so it would run the AC from the generator while running on propane. Since the install, I have had no issues running the AC.
@@KM4ACK thanks Jason! Good info to know about a soft start AC too. :)
Very clean Jason! 73 - KF6IF
Those are some great upgrades. Wish mine came with a ladder for easier pole mounting. Was your converter set to charge a LiFePo4 or did you have to upgrade that as well? 73 de KC3QLX
My converter isn't designed for and won't charge the LiFePO4 battery beyond ~70%. The solar panels charge the battery up to 100% though. The solar charge controller will support LiFePO4 batteries.
can you suggest items and radios using a usb c battery system and solar yet?
Do your lithium batteries have built. In heaters? Apparently lithium can't be charged below 32°
No but they have a low temp sensor which stops charging when it’s too cold.
Great video de W2CSI
With that generator on propane you will suck down a tank in about 3 hours. The use a ton of propane. On gas you probably get about 9 to 10 hours + on a tank.
During field day I got just over 12 hours out of each bottle with the generator. That was running the AC at ~70 degrees.
Here's the AAR with a breakdown of propane use. Scroll down and look under the generator section tiny.cc/FD-AAR-2022
I have a tray on the back of the trailer for those trips I need to haul Generator fuel. 73 de w6akb
That's one thing that is missing on my RV. I wish it had a rack on the back.
@@KM4ACK On one of our trailers we had an RV dealer weld a 2" receiver on the back, and we use a tray that plugs in there. Our current trailer came with a receiver for that. We had one trailer that had a slide out tray built in, but that broke up after some years. Many new trailers have fold-down trays at the back, those could probably be added to a trailer as well. I think the receiver is best because we can use a tray or a bike rack there. Have fun! 73 de w6akb
Really nice! I would like to do the same, but all I need is an RV. 😁😁
You have "solar on the side" and a built in charge controller/solar on the roof and they aren't connected? Funny how they don't understand solar...
From all of my research, solar on the side doesn't feed into the charge controller even though the charge controller came from the factory. Makes no sense to me. This doesn't just apply to E-Pros. Seems they are all wired that way. It is nice that I have on outside 12V outlet though!
@@KM4ACK mine has the ZAMP solar ready plug, it's reverse polarity and no charge controller at all - it's just a direct feed to the battery and ready for disaster!
Hot water heater is not the correct term if water is hot it doesn't need to be heated it's a water heater
Nice video Kg6oqk
Thanks!