Thank you for this great info FOC! Very helpful. I am trying to find a fix like this for my (new to me) Canon EF. The counter dial flutters backwards from S when advancing, but will not advance forward. The exterior is shared with no other camera I have and I would like a professional opinion on approaching this new fix. Is there any similar repairs to the EF?
Great video and great explanation. I have the same problem with my Canon F1. Once I dismantled the shutter trigger and the rewinding knob the frame counter reseted to "S" but I can't take that plastic cover from the shutter and ASA dial. I used cleaning alcohol that contains from 20 to 25% of isopropyl alcohol and I left it there for a while. I repeated this proccess several times but I can't manage to take it off. Any other pieces of advice? I want to remove the cover to fix the dent and avoid it to stop the counter.
@@chasekarlsen3413 Hi! At the end I used isopropyl alcohol with a concentration of 99% and that loosened the piece and I was able to unscrew it with no difficulty. Unfortunately I chipped the paint away trying to unscrew it loose before using the correct tools but it works perfectly since the fix. Its a machine built to last.
Perfect. I have an F1n with the film counter not working from a dent in the top cover. Always wondered what was holding the ASA and shutter speed dial in place. NOW I know. Probably the same between this F1 and my F1n. It is NOT the F1N. Thanks.
Well mission completed. Removed everything and replaced everything successfully. The differences between the F1 & F1n are the way the FLM SPD/ASA dial on the camera is. You have to remove everything, shims, washers etc off the dial post before it can be replaced. Then everything is put back through the top. Bit different on the shutter button and the lock. It has a flat part on the shutter button sleeve that has to be set to leave clearance for the speed adjustment.
what is a sufficient time to let the isopropyl alcohol get the cover off from the shutter speed dial? i let it sit for about 20 min but cant get it off :/
Is preserving the patina of decades of use/storage a thing for current users of classic film cameras? Or does any reason to open one up invariably invite a clean, lubricate and adjust to as close as possible to brand new? For me, it's the latter (maybe as I become older, I'm more appreciative of any CLA I can get!). Except if it's one of the real antiques, such as a 1933 Rolleicord 1 with the Art Deco finish. Any views?
Interesting observations and fun comments. If the camera is excessively grungy and looks ill cared for rather than well used a good detailing would seem to be in order. If the grudge is interfering with the operation of the camera than it would obviously need to be cleaned. If the patina of years gone by adds to the mystique of its history than leaving it as is might be a consideration. Lots of ifs... ultimately it seems a matter of personal taste and necessity of functionality. Thank you for the comments and for your interest in FOC.
Hello FOC - thank you so much for these videos, they're immensely helpful. I have an F-1 with this exact problem - the film counter is stuck and will not advance or reset. But this fix (taking the top plate off) did not work - the window is not what is causing it to bind. The counter does mot move at all when I try to rotate it like you do at 4:00. Any ideas? I would love to get this working again. Another issue is my lock ring doesn't actually lock the shutter button, it still triggers when pressed in the lock position. Maybe the previous owner removed this functionality?
I removed the three flatheads holding the counter disk on and found that it was binding on the shutter button post. The shutter button post has a small cutout to clear the disk, but the post seems to be rotated slightly such that the edge of the cutout is binding with the counter disk. I would love some help here. Thanks!
It is possible that the alignment of the button receiver is slightly bent. Maybe you can address the area on the post that is binding with a file. The post should have a flat side that clears the counter dial .
Hi FOC, thanks for the video and I had the second issue Scott had - the shutter lock ring does not work properly so the shutter triggers regardless of if the lock is on. Any idea about how to fix that?
did you fix this? my counter is stuck on S and wont advance when pulling the lever (it does however move slightly but then flicks back to s halfway through the rotation. Thanks
A riddle that could be solved, but not by FOC. It would be interesting to know. There are some cameras that have none. And some cameras that have only a couple that serve as a detent.
If you are interested in possible repair - phototronic.biz/ However, if by qualified you mean a Bronica factory trained technician than do not follow the above link. The ETRS mechanical failures are generally repairable as long as no parts beyond springs are needed. The mechanism are fairly complicated and can sometimes cause repairs to be unpractical, particularly if the camera wind was forced through a jammed condition.
A couple on removal of the K1000 top cover ruclips.net/video/y6ehEPbOiRc/видео.html ruclips.net/video/t0KxP3A8qQo/видео.html jammed K1000 ruclips.net/video/zOaGdKWb_f0/видео.html
They are apparently no longer available. The ones featured in the FOC videos are over 40 years old of continuous service! Some substitutes are available www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras Affiliate disclosure: Please make note that the links provided are affiliate links and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you make a purchase using these links. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is appreciated. Thank you making any purchases through the links on this channel.
i have a sears sk super im having a problem with its advancing but the shutter button wont fire the shutter is there any way you could do a video on how to fix this problem id appreciate it
Might be the magnet release is sticking or a bad battery or corrosion on the battery lid or battery contacts ( a nearly invisible layer of corrosion will block the flow of current. The Sears KS-Super, Sears KS-Super II, Sears KSX-Super all are magnetic release and need battery power to release.
Dear FOC, I have a classic F-1 and the mirror would not go down randomly at several shutterspeed: 1s, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60. Other speeds are ok enough. Could you give me some advise please ? I have tried shooting when open film door and noticed that when the mirror locked up, the second curtain is closed most of the time. The issue is most severe at shutterspeed 1s, sometime the second curtain does not close when mirror locked up at shutterspeed 1s.
It could be that as the 2nd curtain completes the cycle on the 1 second setting that there is not sufficient momentum to trigger the mirror release. If this is the case, a slight increase in curtain tension might correct the issue. This observation is not absolute as there are other things by themselves and in combination that could also be the culprit.
Thanh you for your suggestion, should I increase only the second one? And how do I distinguish it from the 2 screw, also, screw in is increasing the tension, isn't it? Sorry if I asked too much. I just want to make sure.
did you get this fixed? I get the same at 30s and below, obvo not an issue in everyday life but still would like to solve it before it gets worse! thanks
Hi there, my problem is slightly different however I will try your method if all else fails. My film counter is stuck on 's' and will not advance when I pull the film lever (it does however move slightly but flicks back to 's' halfway through the rotation. This occurs when the door is closed and when it is opened. any ideas whats the issue? Thanks
There's a lot of useful information in this video but how could you reassemble such dirty parts without cleaning them? Also, that tooling mark was unforgivable.
It was easy… they went together in the reverse of how they came apart and as a bonus the camera’s counter is now working. Although the point of the video was not about removing dust from cracks, crevices and lettering... detailing a camera is easy too. Usually the point of a wooden cleaning stick, a cotton swab and some isopropyl alcohol will do the trick. And to hear that the sin of what you call a tooling mark can not be forgiven. Oh well… the burden of such a transgression will have to be carried for eternity. Thank you for taking the time to comment and glad you found some useful information.
Why not clean up all parts. Hearts me to see how dirty the parts are when you mount again. Thats not good craftsmanship, and at all not fine when making video.
Great comment. That the dust bothers you on this well used camera brings a smile. Did you not also notice that the counter window that was reinstalled also was a little worse for the wear. (LOL... it had an imprint of the dial numbers from years of resting against the jammed counter dial) If so desired, detailing the dust off a camera should be instinctual to any one who might attempt this repair. If you need a demonstration of how to remove dust residue from cosmetic parts than there might be a FOC video in the Repair Basics 101 playlist. Basic Camera Repair Materials ruclips.net/video/-Lz8sE4xDEE/видео.html demonstrates the dipping of a cleaning swab in the cup of an alcohol dispenser at the 50 second point. The purpose of a FOC video has always been to act as guide to the quirks of a particular camera as to what might be encountered when a particular repair is attempted. The videos are by no measure intended as a complete guide and are intentionally kept as brief as possible. Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Perfect answer, and a perfect video in my opinion, for the exact same reason you gave. easy to follow, not too complicated but with useful insights that show huge experience. thanks for the upload, looking forward to the next video! (Planning to buy an F1 next month or so, so this video got me all excited even more.)
That F1 sure looks as if it had an interesting life. Nice to see such an old camera being appreciated and fixed.
True indeed. Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for this excellent video, that in short time explains a lot of important details. Best regards from Denmark.
I thank you and best regards to you from Kansas…
I appreciate your video, I need to fix my Canon F3’s stuck counter so I’ll try what I’ve seen here and see if that works
top quality vid, fixed my f1 and fixed the slow shutter speeds whilst i was fixing the counter! thanks mate
You are welcome and thank you for your interest in FOC.
Nice to see an old camera that hasn’t been worked on yet. That’s a lot of work to re-glue a screen too!
Right on my friend. Keep'em going.
Thank you for this great info FOC! Very helpful. I am trying to find a fix like this for my (new to me) Canon EF. The counter dial flutters backwards from S when advancing, but will not advance forward. The exterior is shared with no other camera I have and I would like a professional opinion on approaching this new fix. Is there any similar repairs to the EF?
Another great video.Even though I don't have a Canon F-1 I bet this will be useful for other cameras I do have.
Thank you for your comment and your long time interest in FOC.
What brand of glue did you use? thanks!
Great video and great explanation. I have the same problem with my Canon F1. Once I dismantled the shutter trigger and the rewinding knob the frame counter reseted to "S" but I can't take that plastic cover from the shutter and ASA dial. I used cleaning alcohol that contains from 20 to 25% of isopropyl alcohol and I left it there for a while. I repeated this proccess several times but I can't manage to take it off. Any other pieces of advice? I want to remove the cover to fix the dent and avoid it to stop the counter.
Try using a higher concentration of isopropyl alcohol. 91% should be available at a drug store. Or... www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras
Hi! A bit late but I was struggling too until I realised you had to screw it off, try taking a wide flat head style pliers and turning it
@@chasekarlsen3413 Hi! At the end I used isopropyl alcohol with a concentration of 99% and that loosened the piece and I was able to unscrew it with no difficulty. Unfortunately I chipped the paint away trying to unscrew it loose before using the correct tools but it works perfectly since the fix. Its a machine built to last.
Perfect. I have an F1n with the film counter not working from a dent in the top cover. Always wondered what was holding the ASA and shutter speed dial in place. NOW I know. Probably the same between this F1 and my F1n. It is NOT the F1N. Thanks.
Good to hear this video might help. Thank you for your comments and interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Well mission completed. Removed everything and replaced everything successfully. The differences between the F1 & F1n are the way the FLM SPD/ASA dial on the camera is. You have to remove everything, shims, washers etc off the dial post before it can be replaced. Then everything is put back through the top. Bit different on the shutter button and the lock. It has a flat part on the shutter button sleeve that has to be set to leave clearance for the speed adjustment.
Excellent news! And thank you for the informative update.
Thank you so much!! Any video on the New F-1 coming soon?
Not in the near future, but thank you for the suggestion and for your interest in FOC.
Thank you for this
Wheres the third retaining screw on the shutter lock ring? I only see two, is the third one hidden?
what is a sufficient time to let the isopropyl alcohol get the cover off from the shutter speed dial? i let it sit for about 20 min but cant get it off :/
Is preserving the patina of decades of use/storage a thing for current users of classic film cameras? Or does any reason to open one up invariably invite a clean, lubricate and adjust to as close as possible to brand new?
For me, it's the latter (maybe as I become older, I'm more appreciative of any CLA I can get!). Except if it's one of the real antiques, such as a 1933 Rolleicord 1 with the Art Deco finish.
Any views?
Interesting observations and fun comments. If the camera is excessively grungy and looks ill cared for rather than well used a good detailing would seem to be in order. If the grudge is interfering with the operation of the camera than it would obviously need to be cleaned. If the patina of years gone by adds to the mystique of its history than leaving it as is might be a consideration. Lots of ifs... ultimately it seems a matter of personal taste and necessity of functionality. Thank you for the comments and for your interest in FOC.
Hello! Do you know how would the counter repair be in a Minolta x370? Greetings from Chile :)
Hello FOC - thank you so much for these videos, they're immensely helpful. I have an F-1 with this exact problem - the film counter is stuck and will not advance or reset. But this fix (taking the top plate off) did not work - the window is not what is causing it to bind. The counter does mot move at all when I try to rotate it like you do at 4:00. Any ideas? I would love to get this working again.
Another issue is my lock ring doesn't actually lock the shutter button, it still triggers when pressed in the lock position. Maybe the previous owner removed this functionality?
I removed the three flatheads holding the counter disk on and found that it was binding on the shutter button post. The shutter button post has a small cutout to clear the disk, but the post seems to be rotated slightly such that the edge of the cutout is binding with the counter disk. I would love some help here. Thanks!
Sure enough, it was the post that needed to be rotated. Any idea on how I can get the post to remain fixed in position so this doesn't happen again?
It is possible that the alignment of the button receiver is slightly bent. Maybe you can address the area on the post that is binding with a file. The post should have a flat side that clears the counter dial .
Hi FOC, thanks for the video and I had the second issue Scott had - the shutter lock ring does not work properly so the shutter triggers regardless of if the lock is on. Any idea about how to fix that?
did you fix this? my counter is stuck on S and wont advance when pulling the lever (it does however move slightly but then flicks back to s halfway through the rotation. Thanks
How many steel ball bearings in the mechanism of this camera ?
A riddle that could be solved, but not by FOC. It would be interesting to know. There are some cameras that have none. And some cameras that have only a couple that serve as a detent.
Thank you for this video
You are welcome and thank you for your comment and interest in FOC.
Do you repair other cameras? I have a Bronica ETRS medium format film camera that has a shutter issue. Can't seem to find qualified repairmen.
If you are interested in possible repair - phototronic.biz/
However, if by qualified you mean a Bronica factory trained technician than do not follow the above link. The ETRS mechanical failures are generally repairable as long as no parts beyond springs are needed. The mechanism are fairly complicated and can sometimes cause repairs to be unpractical, particularly if the camera wind was forced through a jammed condition.
Could you make a video of repairing an olympus om-2 on/off dial?
Yes... hard to say when, and as in the OM-1 there are several versions. Thank you for the suggestion and your interest in FOC.
could you possibly do this tutorial on a pentax k1000 camera?
A couple on removal of the K1000 top cover
ruclips.net/video/y6ehEPbOiRc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/t0KxP3A8qQo/видео.html
jammed K1000
ruclips.net/video/zOaGdKWb_f0/видео.html
I would kill to see you do a video on disassembling the iskra film counter. I might get one, but I'm afraid of its reputation.
That would be a fun camera to feature the counter function in a FOC video.
Where did you get that spanner.???
They are apparently no longer available. The ones featured in the FOC videos are over 40 years old of continuous service! Some substitutes are available
www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras
Affiliate disclosure: Please make note that the links provided are affiliate links and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you make a purchase using these links. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is appreciated. Thank you making any purchases through the links on this channel.
Can you tell me what is the thread around inside the film chamber. Thanks
Not sure of what you are referring?
Please do a version for the canon f-1 new. My counter will reset but only to frame 5, not all the way to zero.
Thank you for the suggestion.
i have a sears sk super im having a problem with its advancing but the shutter button wont fire the shutter is there any way you could do a video on how to fix this problem id appreciate it
Might be the magnet release is sticking or a bad battery or corrosion on the battery lid or battery contacts ( a nearly invisible layer of corrosion will block the flow of current. The Sears KS-Super, Sears KS-Super II, Sears KSX-Super all are magnetic release and need battery power to release.
Thanks for this video! Is this appliable to a canon a-1 as well?
Dear FOC, I have a classic F-1 and the mirror would not go down randomly at several shutterspeed: 1s, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60.
Other speeds are ok enough. Could you give me some advise please ?
I have tried shooting when open film door and noticed that when the mirror locked up, the second curtain is closed most of the time. The issue is most severe at shutterspeed 1s, sometime the second curtain does not close when mirror locked up at shutterspeed 1s.
It could be that as the 2nd curtain completes the cycle on the 1 second setting that there is not sufficient momentum to trigger the mirror release. If this is the case, a slight increase in curtain tension might correct the issue. This observation is not absolute as there are other things by themselves and in combination that could also be the culprit.
Thanh you for your suggestion, should I increase only the second one? And how do I distinguish it from the 2 screw, also, screw in is increasing the tension, isn't it? Sorry if I asked too much. I just want to make sure.
did you get this fixed? I get the same at 30s and below, obvo not an issue in everyday life but still would like to solve it before it gets worse! thanks
Can you make fix Video about the Nikon fa?
No reason not... just a matter of when. Thank you for your interest in FOC.
Hi there, my problem is slightly different however I will try your method if all else fails. My film counter is stuck on 's' and will not advance when I pull the film lever (it does however move slightly but flicks back to 's' halfway through the rotation. This occurs when the door is closed and when it is opened. any ideas whats the issue? Thanks
Probably still going to have to remove the counter side top cover to see what is preventing the counter dial from moving.
There's a lot of useful information in this video but how could you reassemble such dirty parts without cleaning them? Also, that tooling mark was unforgivable.
It was easy… they went together in the reverse of how they came apart and as a bonus the camera’s counter is now working. Although the point of the video was not about removing dust from cracks, crevices and lettering... detailing a camera is easy too. Usually the point of a wooden cleaning stick, a cotton swab and some isopropyl alcohol will do the trick. And to hear that the sin of what you call a tooling mark can not be forgiven. Oh well… the burden of such a transgression will have to be carried for eternity. Thank you for taking the time to comment and glad you found some useful information.
how to fix stuck counter frame on nikon fg? it wont back to "S"
My om1 when shoot, it still count on S, Can I use this tutorial video, it same? thanks.
Similar, but not the same. This video will show you how to remove the top cover an access the counter.
ruclips.net/video/5HFpUX1NlJo/видео.html
I have the same camera, will it still take the picture and develop perfectly though? I dont want to try and repair it as I might end up messing it up.
Thanks, I need to do thst to mine.
Very good to hear the video might be helpful.
Woooo
Why not clean up all parts. Hearts me to see how dirty the parts are when you mount again. Thats not good craftsmanship, and at all not fine when making video.
Great comment. That the dust bothers you on this well used camera brings a smile. Did you not also notice that the counter window that was reinstalled also was a little worse for the wear. (LOL... it had an imprint of the dial numbers from years of resting against the jammed counter dial) If so desired, detailing the dust off a camera should be instinctual to any one who might attempt this repair. If you need a demonstration of how to remove dust residue from cosmetic parts than there might be a FOC video in the Repair Basics 101 playlist. Basic Camera Repair Materials ruclips.net/video/-Lz8sE4xDEE/видео.html demonstrates the dipping of a cleaning swab in the cup of an alcohol dispenser at the 50 second point. The purpose of a FOC video has always been to act as guide to the quirks of a particular camera as to what might be encountered when a particular repair is attempted. The videos are by no measure intended as a complete guide and are intentionally kept as brief as possible. Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Perfect answer, and a perfect video in my opinion, for the exact same reason you gave. easy to follow, not too complicated but with useful insights that show huge experience.
thanks for the upload, looking forward to the next video!
(Planning to buy an F1 next month or so, so this video got me all excited even more.)
Thank you for your support and interest in Fix Old Cameras. Your comment is greatly appreciated. The Canon F-1 is one of the good ones of yesteryear.