@@bottomupbuilds Por qué dejaste de hacer contenido , apenas me tope con tu canal y todo lo explicas a detalle hubiera estado perfecto más vídeos como este!
@@carlosnox91 ojalá puedo hacer mas videos en el futuro. Tuve unas cosas en la vida que me tomó del poyecto, pero es toy pensando que voy a poder hacer mas tiempo al fin del año.
Ugh, let no one ever say adjusting torsion bars is NOT a pain in the ass. This video was very helpful and as I type this, I'm reviewing the video to get the torque specs for the end cap bolts. Just establishing the factory height was a pain. In the end, I could never quite get exactly 21 degrees 20 minutes, so after randomly rotating the inner and outer, I fell upon exactly 10 degrees, by chance (yes, I, too, desire a 3 inch drop)!
Use the longer bolts from the bottom of your super bug strut to start on the spring plate and then swap to your short ones. The video didn't mention that these bolts are 15mm size, and using normal sized 17mm head bolts don't have room. The strut mont bolts are your friend here.
There is a tool that pulls the spring plate up to the stop, and also helps to safely remove the spring plate. It'll prevent the plate from slamming in the downward position.
although i totally agree w/ the safety notion...the "slamming down" is rather anticlimactic as it pops down an inch maybe? I was prepared for a ground shaking event and its just not. a bump of the hammer from the back and no fingers in the way and done.
Not clear on how you got the spring plate back up on its shelf. Did it just line up with the shelf without tension since you lowered the ride height? Setting mine back to stock height I’m expecting to have to use a jack under the spring plate to get it back up on its ledge. Am I picturing this correctly?
Correct, since I lowered the car (raised the starting position of the spring plate) mine just set right on the shelf without much effort. If you are raising the car (lowering the starting position of the spring plate) you will need to use something to press it up so it can be pushed over and set on the shelf. If your car is assembled with the body on and engine in, a jack should do the trick, or I have even seen people use a ratchet strap to pull the spring plate up so it can be set into place.
with mine dropped 2 splines and no bumpstops...still trying to figure out what metal to metal is bottoming out. I have to leave 20lbs or more in my air shocks to prevent a metal to metal collision back there
Thank you for the amazing video an dim curious do you need to do the other side also left side, i want to do mine and i assume i need to do both side the same degrees and process to be level the same.
You can insert it randomly, then adjust it until you find the stock height, then reference the chart for raising or lowering. I marked the top of mine before i removed them to make sure I could put them back exactly where they were.
The grease I used on the urethane parts did come with the parts. I believe there are some types of grease that don't pair well with it. I figured it was a safe bet, in this case, to use what was provided.
I see dark touch up paint on your torsion bars. Can you tell me what that is? I have unused 26mm torsion bars I've owned for approximately 6 or 7 years which have acquired a few nicks in the paint over the years
Whatever the black was that was on there, was on there when I pulled them out. It didn't clean off, like it was a paint or a glue/residue from something, whatever it was was stuck on really good. Not sure where it came from or what it was though.
If you are referring to the part in the video at around 9:34, yes the outside IS larger than the inside. IF you are looking at the bushing at about 10:30, the outside IS NOT smaller. Bothe bushings can only go on in one direction and should fit the shape of the spring plate and cover.
What paint did you use on this chassis and has it held up? Maybe you have a video on paint process? Looks killer, just want to make sure it's gonna last. My son and I are rebuilding my wife's grandfathers '72 super beetle. Thanks!
Check out this video ruclips.net/video/wmW3nXZ1dD0/видео.html on the process of cleaning and prepping the parts for paint. This is the paint I used, Speedokote SMR-207/211 - Hot Rod Black Paint, Black Satin 2K Urethane, SMR-207 4:1 Mix Single Stage Gallon kit with activator Included And this is the primer, Speedokote Epoxy Fast Dry 2.1 Low voc DTM Primer & Sealer Gray Gallon Kit, SMR-260G/261 I wish I had an update on how its held up, but other life projects have put the bug on the back back burner and so its still just sitting in the garage as of today.
Is it just me, or isn't it easier to install the torsion bars and plate first and then mount the diagonal axes? Saves you from scratching the freshly painted parts.
Follow up question. Can you tell me the source of your torsion bar end caps? I'd like to keep my factory ones, but one side got a crease like dent on the edge of the hole, and I don't feel it's safe to use. I bought replacements, but they're not the correct ones(they looked correct in the online picture, but it may have been a representative image).
Those are Prothane brand, I can't get you the part number, I do not know if they still make that brand. Any google search will get you a similar product for your year and model though.
The most informative video I’ve seen on this job, and I’ve watched a #, TY
THANK YOU for this video. This is the best explanation of everything I needed to re-index and raise my 73 Baja Ghia.
Glad it helped!!
@@bottomupbuilds Por qué dejaste de hacer contenido , apenas me tope con tu canal y todo lo explicas a detalle hubiera estado perfecto más vídeos como este!
@@carlosnox91 ojalá puedo hacer mas videos en el futuro. Tuve unas cosas en la vida que me tomó del poyecto, pero es toy pensando que voy a poder hacer mas tiempo al fin del año.
What a brilliant video - going in reverse as ripped a jacking point clear off to so this is sooo useful !! Thanks for making and very clear video.
Glad it was helpful!
Another GREAT video THANK YOU VW
You are welcome, I'm glad it helped!
Thanks. I needed that. The angle chart is gold!
Glad it helped!!
Ugh, let no one ever say adjusting torsion bars is NOT a pain in the ass. This video was very helpful and as I type this, I'm reviewing the video to get the torque specs for the end cap bolts.
Just establishing the factory height was a pain. In the end, I could never quite get exactly 21 degrees 20 minutes, so after randomly rotating the inner and outer, I fell upon exactly 10 degrees, by chance (yes, I, too, desire a 3 inch drop)!
Nice!! Glad it helped out, hopefully you're out driving soon!
Hoping you put out more videos in the near future. Great video.
Thank you! I agree! Hopefully I'm getting close to having time to get back to this!
Use the longer bolts from the bottom of your super bug strut to start on the spring plate and then swap to your short ones. The video didn't mention that these bolts are 15mm size, and using normal sized 17mm head bolts don't have room. The strut mont bolts are your friend here.
You made it so easy.
Great informative video, keep them coming 👏
pull the arm and make life easier and also replace the arm bushing while you're at it
There is a tool that pulls the spring plate up to the stop, and also helps to safely remove the spring plate. It'll prevent the plate from slamming in the downward position.
although i totally agree w/ the safety notion...the "slamming down" is rather anticlimactic as it pops down an inch maybe? I was prepared for a ground shaking event and its just not. a bump of the hammer from the back and no fingers in the way and done.
Excelente trabajo y explicación
Gracias!
Not clear on how you got the spring plate back up on its shelf. Did it just line up with the shelf without tension since you lowered the ride height? Setting
mine back to stock height I’m expecting to have to use a jack under the spring plate to get it back up on its ledge. Am I picturing this correctly?
Correct, since I lowered the car (raised the starting position of the spring plate) mine just set right on the shelf without much effort. If you are raising the car (lowering the starting position of the spring plate) you will need to use something to press it up so it can be pushed over and set on the shelf. If your car is assembled with the body on and engine in, a jack should do the trick, or I have even seen people use a ratchet strap to pull the spring plate up so it can be set into place.
@@bottomupbuilds Will be tackling this job tomorrow. Thanks for giving me the confidence to proceed.
with mine dropped 2 splines and no bumpstops...still trying to figure out what metal to metal is bottoming out. I have to leave 20lbs or more in my air shocks to prevent a metal to metal collision back there
Thank you for the amazing video an dim curious do you need to do the other side also left side, i want to do mine and i assume i need to do both side the same degrees and process to be level the same.
@@Mars36912 yes, definitely do both sides! Same process on the other side 👍
@@bottomupbuilds thank you!!
gracias por compartir👏👏
De nada, amigo!
Do you insert the torsion bar randomly? Or is there a mark on the outer part of the torsion bar that’s tells you where the top or bottom is?
You can insert it randomly, then adjust it until you find the stock height, then reference the chart for raising or lowering. I marked the top of mine before i removed them to make sure I could put them back exactly where they were.
@@bottomupbuilds on my 63 beetle, I set both sides to 17 degrees and the driver side is an inch lower 🤷♂️.
@@cyprianskiba8768 Odd, maybe one of the torsion bars is getting warn out?
@@bottomupbuilds that’s my guess. I put in an order for some new torsion bars and will see what happens
@@cyprianskiba8768Did new torsion bars fix your problem?
Thank you for the video. Could you explain why you used two different greases? Is there a special kind of grease to use with urethane?
The grease I used on the urethane parts did come with the parts. I believe there are some types of grease that don't pair well with it. I figured it was a safe bet, in this case, to use what was provided.
I googled “grease for polyurethane bushings” and the recommendation was to use lithium grease.
I see dark touch up paint on your torsion bars. Can you tell me what that is? I have unused 26mm torsion bars I've owned for approximately 6 or 7 years which have acquired a few nicks in the paint over the years
Whatever the black was that was on there, was on there when I pulled them out. It didn't clean off, like it was a paint or a glue/residue from something, whatever it was was stuck on really good. Not sure where it came from or what it was though.
Question: Is the round rubber on the outside larger in diameter?
If you are referring to the part in the video at around 9:34, yes the outside IS larger than the inside. IF you are looking at the bushing at about 10:30, the outside IS NOT smaller. Bothe bushings can only go on in one direction and should fit the shape of the spring plate and cover.
What paint did you use on this chassis and has it held up? Maybe you have a video on paint process? Looks killer, just want to make sure it's gonna last. My son and I are rebuilding my wife's grandfathers '72 super beetle. Thanks!
Check out this video ruclips.net/video/wmW3nXZ1dD0/видео.html on the process of cleaning and prepping the parts for paint.
This is the paint I used, Speedokote SMR-207/211 - Hot Rod Black Paint, Black Satin 2K Urethane, SMR-207 4:1 Mix Single Stage Gallon kit with activator Included
And this is the primer, Speedokote Epoxy Fast Dry 2.1 Low voc DTM Primer & Sealer Gray Gallon Kit, SMR-260G/261
I wish I had an update on how its held up, but other life projects have put the bug on the back back burner and so its still just sitting in the garage as of today.
@@bottomupbuilds Thanks a bunch for the response! Amazing info. And I hope you get back to the bug soon. :)
Is it just me, or isn't it easier to install the torsion bars and plate first and then mount the diagonal axes? Saves you from scratching the freshly painted parts.
Put the spring play behind the diagonal arm before you tighten the bolts
What is the link to the chart?
Google VW lowering chart and you'll find dozens of the same chart
Follow up question. Can you tell me the source of your torsion bar end caps? I'd like to keep my factory ones, but one side got a crease like dent on the edge of the hole, and I don't feel it's safe to use. I bought replacements, but they're not the correct ones(they looked correct in the online picture, but it may have been a representative image).
Sure, I know I got those from Mooreparts.com at the time they were the cheapest price with shipping.
@@bottomupbuilds do you have a part number for the end caps you purchased?
@@MichaelValentine-w9p www.mooreparts.com/search-results-page?q=%20AC511102B
Based on my invoice, that is the part I bought, hope that helps!
@@bottomupbuilds rats. Shows as not in stock.
@@MichaelValentine-w9p bummer, did you try the other usuals? Jbugs, cip1, wolfburg west?
Did you finish the car?
ha, I wish, just had other real life stuff that needed attention before I can get back to this. Hopefully soon though!
I'm building a 73 SB your video helped me out.... thanks..
Can you send me the brand and part number of the plastic bushings?
Those are Prothane brand, I can't get you the part number, I do not know if they still make that brand. Any google search will get you a similar product for your year and model though.
Is the processed reversed for the drivers side?
Yes, in regards to the way you turn the torsion bar and spring plate.
Where do you get that chart
99% sure I got it from a thread on thesamba.com
www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1443589.jpg
here is one I found with a quick search