I see what you're saying about the sheath. My observations are; *Leather tip of sheath should be enclosed and sewn with a welt, then the steel covering over that. *The frog is built backwards, meaning the button should be attached to the sheath directly so that when the frog is removed, the button is then utilized to keep the sheath from sliding through the belt. Note: I think when you disassemble the handle,, I would oil the tang well or even grease it to preserve the tank from rust for when it is out in the weather camping with the moisture and humidity.
Bowies are for chopping, defence (bears and such) food preparation skinning etc ,the idea of a large blade is that it is multi purpose, don't chop dead wood with any blade axes maybe , but that's what saws are for ,
The original knife that this is a replica of was issued to US troops in WWI for trench warfare. The part of the sheath that slides off is call a "frog", common for bayonets, etc of the period. The metal tip of the sheath that you are having trouble with is called a "drag" or "shoe" (also common to military knives and swords of the period). It can be easily fixed by cleaning and scoring the leather and re-securing the shoe with a good epoxy. I had an original 1917 Bowie Trench knife at one time, so I can honestly say that all in all it is pretty accurate reproduction. Although I am a little disappointed that Windlass let that one get by their quality control.
The sheath is easerly repaired use a washer for the top pin, I would drill a hole through a penny and use that for looks get a ball pin hammer and round off that pin, I would use epoxy for the bottom, also after repairing the bottom drill a fine hole in the metal to assist with ventilation and a drain hole to help keep the sheath dry and prevent rust,
It's made mostly as a Weapon,and the screws DO get rusty.That tip as you may know can be reglued . And this is a very truthful review. Thanks for making it as I'm a Fan of this knife also. . It's really not a camp knife or survival tool,but as a Bowie Knife it should have those qualities.
I know this comment is late in coming but the fix is simple, when you need too put that end piece back in. Its called GLUE, I used GOOP when the same thing happened to mine. You see when Goop dries it is still a bit flexible. The tip on my Cold Steel Scottish Dirk came off, I just glued it back on. Easy fix. P.S. Its a fighting knife, no more no less. As for the sheath, easy fixes.
It was my understanding that the reason for the "1917" moniker, as well as the sheath design, was that the "1917 Frontier Bowie" is literally a sawed off "1917 Cutlass". They shortened the blade and put a "S" shaped guard on it as opposed to a cutlass style hand guard and then just shortened the sheath. I would argue that they would have been better off redesigning the sheath for use with a knife than retaining a sheath that had originally been designed for a boarding cutlass. Regardless of that I like the knife. I might break down and get somebody to make me a better sheath for it though.
Do you have any updates on that Beast of a knife, wondering how everything worked out with the plans you had of selling or reprofiling the edge. as for the sheath Kydex would be great. Cold Steel is the top knife company for knife enthusiast,,they keep the hobby fun with great new ideas and products of all types.
Jim Boe the First . I have reprofiled the edge, bringing it to a much leaner grind. It chops wonderfully now. No sheath, hiccup with the kydex, no really reliable way to form it
the scabbard reminds me of the khukris imported from Nepal. Similar construction, and after discovering that this knife is made by Windless and sold by Cold Steel, now I know made in India. Lets hope they arent lying about the steel composition etc-.Cold Steel could you not have done this in Taiwan ?? Good looking knife.Lets hope it is as tough as the GI Tanto.
only thing I would change is the type of steel used ,5160 or any good spring steel would be better,your changes would be nice but also double the price.
Tough to tell if tang is welded to blade under that guard..stopping the vid at 8:57 makes me think it is. Clearly the guard is spot welded, but is that tang and blade one piece?
hi, just wondering, with the loop and frog being removable does this mean it could be made into a left hand sheath, ie... worn on the left side?? i struggle to find a decent left hnd sheath anywhere for ANYTHING and as the knife is the one i want i'd rather be able to wear it correctly or resume my long search for the elusive left handed knife ( not intended as a joke either :) )
+dodo19923 the snap holder that secures it would be the only thing stopping you from wearing it left handed. But I think it's a heavy enough knife that it will stay.
sweet. i always try to mod my purchases anyway so at least ill have a bit more ease of mind when buying. i bought the cold steel barong machete and the cordura sheath was right hand so with ALOT of patience and a bit of needlework knowhow i swapped the belt loop to the other side. tis a pain being a lefty but hey......
Thats not a real cold steel knife its imitation replica you should order it from cold steel. Com it will cost 200 dollars but you will see difference in knife
That actually really bums me out that they would just weld the tang on like that. Yeah, it works, but come on man. I'm spending a hundred bucks I expect a decent chunk of steel
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Thanks for showing the tang. I’ve been holding off because I didn’t know what it looked like. Now I’m getting one
I see what you're saying about the sheath. My observations are;
*Leather tip of sheath should be enclosed and sewn with a welt, then the steel covering over that.
*The frog is built backwards, meaning the button should be attached to the sheath directly so that when the frog is removed, the button is then utilized to keep the sheath from sliding through the belt.
Note: I think when you disassemble the handle,, I would oil the tang well or even grease it to preserve the tank from rust for when it is out in the weather camping with the moisture and humidity.
Bowies are for chopping, defence (bears and such) food preparation skinning etc ,the idea of a large blade is that it is multi purpose, don't chop dead wood with any blade axes maybe , but that's what saws are for ,
The original knife that this is a replica of was issued to US troops in WWI for trench warfare. The part of the sheath that slides off is call a "frog", common for bayonets, etc of the period. The metal tip of the sheath that you are having trouble with is called a "drag" or "shoe" (also common to military knives and swords of the period). It can be easily fixed by cleaning and scoring the leather and re-securing the shoe with a good epoxy.
I had an original 1917 Bowie Trench knife at one time, so I can honestly say that all in all it is pretty accurate reproduction. Although I am a little disappointed that Windlass let that one get by their quality control.
I’ve got the 1917-1918 machine gun engineer bolo. Love it
Of a the many reviews ,this is the best .
I.really appreciate that you took it apart to show us .
Well done . Thank you . Just bought one today .
The sheath is easerly repaired use a washer for the top pin, I would drill a hole through a penny and use that for looks get a ball pin hammer and round off that pin, I would use epoxy for the bottom, also after repairing the bottom drill a fine hole in the metal to assist with ventilation and a drain hole to help keep the sheath dry and prevent rust,
It's made mostly as a Weapon,and the screws DO get rusty.That tip as you may know can be reglued . And this is a very truthful review. Thanks for making it as I'm a Fan of this knife also. . It's really not a camp knife or survival tool,but as a Bowie Knife it should have those qualities.
I plan on grinding the blade to a leaner grind to make it more useful. Thanks for the comment.
+Chaoticburn very good review of the Knife.The truth is not aways fun. The screws are low quality. again Thanks for the Review.
I know this comment is late in coming but the fix is simple, when you need too put that end piece back in. Its called GLUE, I used GOOP when the same thing happened to mine. You see when Goop dries it is still a bit flexible. The tip on my Cold Steel Scottish Dirk came off, I just glued it back on. Easy fix. P.S. Its a fighting knife, no more no less. As for the sheath, easy fixes.
It was my understanding that the reason for the "1917" moniker, as well as the sheath design, was that the "1917 Frontier Bowie" is literally a sawed off "1917 Cutlass". They shortened the blade and put a "S" shaped guard on it as opposed to a cutlass style hand guard and then just shortened the sheath. I would argue that they would have been better off redesigning the sheath for use with a knife than retaining a sheath that had originally been designed for a boarding cutlass. Regardless of that I like the knife. I might break down and get somebody to make me a better sheath for it though.
Do you have any updates on that Beast of a knife, wondering how everything worked out with the plans you had of selling or reprofiling the edge. as for the sheath Kydex would be great. Cold Steel is the top knife company for knife enthusiast,,they keep the hobby fun with great new ideas and products of all types.
Jim Boe the First . I have reprofiled the edge, bringing it to a much leaner grind. It chops wonderfully now. No sheath, hiccup with the kydex, no really reliable way to form it
Chaoticburn & that's good to hear,,,Thanks for you very quick reply,,,Take Care Pal
the scabbard reminds me of the khukris imported from Nepal. Similar construction, and after discovering that this knife is made by Windless and sold by Cold Steel, now I know made in India. Lets hope they arent lying about the steel composition etc-.Cold Steel could you not have done this in Taiwan ?? Good looking knife.Lets hope it is as tough as the GI Tanto.
Dude send it back for a new one. Mine is perfect.
only thing I would change is the type of steel used ,5160 or any good spring steel would be better,your changes would be nice but also double the price.
Mr. Thompson is a great American businessman and he’s a GREAT knife maker. I love his stuff.
Very nice knife!
I have that exact same knife I think you just got a messed-up sheath
i think the handle is rosewood tho,not walnut.Great review.
+Jack Rabbit thanks for the comment, I'm not sure, I've seen a few different handles on them. But then again, those could be custom.
+Jack Rabbit thanks for the comment, I'm not sure, I've seen a few different handles on them. But then again, those could be custom.
Tough to tell if tang is welded to blade under that guard..stopping the vid at 8:57 makes me think it is. Clearly the guard is spot welded, but is that tang and blade one piece?
It is in fact one piece. I have yet to get the sheath fixed, but it makes a great camp knife. The only thing welded is the guard.
@@Chaoticburn Thx brother
This is one hell of a thorough review, Great video and you town sounds awesome.
hi, just wondering, with the loop and frog being removable does this mean it could be made into a left hand sheath, ie... worn on the left side?? i struggle to find a decent left hnd sheath anywhere for ANYTHING and as the knife is the one i want i'd rather be able to wear it correctly or resume my long search for the elusive left handed knife ( not intended as a joke either :) )
+dodo19923 the snap holder that secures it would be the only thing stopping you from wearing it left handed. But I think it's a heavy enough knife that it will stay.
sweet. i always try to mod my purchases anyway so at least ill have a bit more ease of mind when buying. i bought the cold steel barong machete and the cordura sheath was right hand so with ALOT of patience and a bit of needlework knowhow i swapped the belt loop to the other side. tis a pain being a lefty but hey......
Everything nowadays needs to be remanufactured when you get it home! It's all garbage!
Could just pin the metal with rivets...take it to a smith he will charge you about 15 to 30 buck...never come apart again
I’ll buy it as is $60
So a majority of the problems are with the sheath huh how bout that
Thats not a real cold steel knife its imitation replica you should order it from cold steel. Com it will cost 200 dollars but you will see difference in knife
I'm not sure where you got this info, but it's incorrect. This is a real cold steel knife.
That actually really bums me out that they would just weld the tang on like that. Yeah, it works, but come on man. I'm spending a hundred bucks I expect a decent chunk of steel
its a full tang,only the S guard is welded.
AND ??????????????????????????????????????
I haven't made a sheath yet. Working on making a kydex sheath that doesn't suck
Sorry but you don’t know what your talking about,you can’t even keep your edge clean.
The handle is made of rosewood...not walnut!