Thanks Brett. I was hoping for some hacks on getting the upper sash out past the parting bead. For me it's the trickiest part of the whole system, and I almost always break at least one of them getting the sash out. Any videos around that illustrate this? Thanks for all your work.
Sash chains make a beautiful window pop more - as long as it's finish matches the rest of the hardware (and is sized appropriately). And while people are changing out the cord, good opportunity to pop out the pully and give that a clean.
Great series! My wife and I just bought a 1925 Georgian Revival with sash windows we are restoring. After many experiments with different products we finally found a paint stripper than removes the many years of paint that we’re keeping the upper sashes from moving.
Would love to know the name of the paint stripper - since none of them work anymore - since the govt stopped letting companies use the chemicals that worked!!
@@BrentHull But since you're 'here' I have a question: are those six windows meant to open or not? Mine never have but I when I was having my pulleys restored the carpenter said those windows are usually painted shut.
@@WakandaBabe Brent said in another video that both sashes were meant to open because it would create natural convection: cool air would enter through the lower window, and hot air would rise and exit through the higher window. So I would guess that it originally opened and was just painted shut over the years.
Me too BUT, the screens that are in the windows now only go up half-way. So if I open the windows on top and bottom, part of the window is open to flies, etc. When I look at my windows from the outside it looks like there were exterior, full length screens originally. Makes sense. So I am on a mission to make those.
I have almost this same setup, but 3 over 1 in a 1920 craftsman bungalow. We have 58 windows we are paint stripping and staining, but the quantity makes it a *very* slow process. I planned to go ahead and paint the front trim faces, restoring the inside and exterior faces as each window was pulled. Seeing that the panel is accessed from the front is breaking my heart! (I can see where mine are also intended to be accessed from the front.) I plan to sacrifice one of my pantry frames to check for myself, but I was wondering.. have you ever had a situation where you have cut into the side of the window casing to access the weights and cords? Thanks for all the great content! You are really helping me restore my historic home rather than just remodel it.
The balances for the windows on my bottom floor have been swapped for spiral counter balances. What type of issues could you foresee me seeing going back to a weighted pulley system?
@@BrentHull that is what puzzles me. The 6 over 6 windows on the bottom floor look like they have a smaller mullion in comparison to the 1 over 1s on the second floor that still have the weights.
You mentioned fixing a broken sash but what about a stuck sash that won’t close. It’s not a painted window just old wood oil stained but one side seems the weight isn’t working.
You probably have the weights hanging up on something in the weight pocket. If you take off the mull cover you can fix the hang up. It could be caught on the other weight or it could be plaster chunk, etc. Good luck.
Yes, sorry, its on the list but keeps getting bumped. is there something specific you are wondering? I can possible answer in an email. info@brenthull.com Thanks.
What if your windows are beautiful (just had it all painted to due to smoke damage) and you don't want to ruin everything just to put in a new cord. I see these videos and they are taking apart an already crusty window. But mine are in pristine condition. I guess I use the stick to prop open and skip the cord replacement.
3200 people just fixed sash cord to their widows and then realized there's no way to get the weights back on without taking off the trim and maybe even having to cut into the weight pockets.... This video is not the way to do it. The other parts about removing the trim and weatherstripping were good
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Thanks Brett. I was hoping for some hacks on getting the upper sash out past the parting bead. For me it's the trickiest part of the whole system, and I almost always break at least one of them getting the sash out. Any videos around that illustrate this? Thanks for all your work.
Ok, we find the parting bead so easy to replace, is 1/2 by 3/4 that we don't worry to much about it.
Sash chains make a beautiful window pop more - as long as it's finish matches the rest of the hardware (and is sized appropriately).
And while people are changing out the cord, good opportunity to pop out the pully and give that a clean.
Agreed!! I should have said more about that. Thanks!
Great series! My wife and I just bought a 1925 Georgian Revival with sash windows we are restoring. After many experiments with different products we finally found a paint stripper than removes the many years of paint that we’re keeping the upper sashes from moving.
Awesome! Great work. Let me know if there is anything else you'd like to learn.
Would love to know the name of the paint stripper - since none of them work anymore - since the govt stopped letting companies use the chemicals that worked!!
Mine are six over one too. Just got all of my windows with the weights/pulleys fixed. No more using books to hold up the windows!
SO glad! Well done.
@@BrentHull But since you're 'here' I have a question: are those six windows meant to open or not? Mine never have but I when I was having my pulleys restored the carpenter said those windows are usually painted shut.
@@WakandaBabe Brent said in another video that both sashes were meant to open because it would create natural convection: cool air would enter through the lower window, and hot air would rise and exit through the higher window. So I would guess that it originally opened and was just painted shut over the years.
@@borp6912 I think you're both correct. Come the warmer weather I'll be on a mission to get those open. I would rather have natural cooling than AC.
Me too BUT, the screens that are in the windows now only go up half-way. So if I open the windows on top and bottom, part of the window is open to flies, etc. When I look at my windows from the outside it looks like there were exterior, full length screens originally. Makes sense. So I am on a mission to make those.
Whenever we find lead window weights we save them for the building inspector. He makes fishing sinkers with them and we get brownie points!
That's a good one! They also can be used for windows. Thanks for sharing.
I have almost this same setup, but 3 over 1 in a 1920 craftsman bungalow. We have 58 windows we are paint stripping and staining, but the quantity makes it a *very* slow process. I planned to go ahead and paint the front trim faces, restoring the inside and exterior faces as each window was pulled. Seeing that the panel is accessed from the front is breaking my heart! (I can see where mine are also intended to be accessed from the front.) I plan to sacrifice one of my pantry frames to check for myself, but I was wondering.. have you ever had a situation where you have cut into the side of the window casing to access the weights and cords?
Thanks for all the great content! You are really helping me restore my historic home rather than just remodel it.
Great, yes, many windows have a window pocket in the jamb, if yours isn't there, then you can cut one in. Its a tricky maneuver but very doable.
The balances for the windows on my bottom floor have been swapped for spiral counter balances. What type of issues could you foresee me seeing going back to a weighted pulley system?
If the weight pocket is still in place, I wouldn't see much of a challenge at all. Retie the weights to the window and see what happens. Good luck.
@@BrentHull that is what puzzles me. The 6 over 6 windows on the bottom floor look like they have a smaller mullion in comparison to the 1 over 1s on the second floor that still have the weights.
You mentioned waxing the track to make it slide easier afterwards - what wax product do you use?
Yes, just a paste wax, we use car paste wax that you can get at an auto parts store. Good luck!!
You mentioned fixing a broken sash but what about a stuck sash that won’t close. It’s not a painted window just old wood oil stained but one side seems the weight isn’t working.
You probably have the weights hanging up on something in the weight pocket. If you take off the mull cover you can fix the hang up. It could be caught on the other weight or it could be plaster chunk, etc. Good luck.
Hi, sir i ask you about Venetian sash window. and you said i will make video. when you will make?
Yes, sorry, its on the list but keeps getting bumped. is there something specific you are wondering? I can possible answer in an email. info@brenthull.com Thanks.
I want to make this window in my house, I have seen some videos of it, but some details are needed.
Don’t forgot to lubricate the pulleys to stop the squeaking
Good point. Thx.
What if your windows are beautiful (just had it all painted to due to smoke damage) and you don't want to ruin everything just to put in a new cord. I see these videos and they are taking apart an already crusty window. But mine are in pristine condition. I guess I use the stick to prop open and skip the cord replacement.
Well, if you are careful you may be able to open up the weight pocket without visible damage. Good luck.
What kind of wax?!
Lol, I got the answer in your next video😜
haha great!
3200 people just fixed sash cord to their widows and then realized there's no way to get the weights back on without taking off the trim and maybe even having to cut into the weight pockets.... This video is not the way to do it. The other parts about removing the trim and weatherstripping were good
Ok.