We once did a project with kids building cameras out of metal cookie boxes. We painted it black inside, sealed it with tape and drilled a 0.5mm hole in the bottom. We glued photographic paper on the inside of the lid and used a piece of tape as a shutter. Exposure was about 30 seconds. After developing we scanned the pictures, edited digitally and printed for an exhibition. Worked great.
Azriel, back in 1964 I bought a 50 foot roll of POSITIVE photo paper (made by ANSCO I think) mail ordered from some full page catalog ad in Popular Photography. Perhaps it was military surplus stuff or it had some industrial use. Back then I was a poor farm kid in college and I fell for anything that was cheap. It turned out to be a splendid investment. Like the paper in your experiment it was very forgiving. I recall ecstatic I was that my first test shots worked. I shot scenes on a high contrast snowy morning and they were superb. Most of it made B & W prints from color transparencies. However, on a wild hair idea one winter night I placed sheets of it in a 4 by 5 camera AND I successfully shot photos indoors with flash and outdoors of the skies. That camera, full open was f/3.5 so I time exposed for 10-100 seconds and got some fun movement streaks of stars, moon and airplanes flying by. Wonder if there's any positive material now that might work for you.
That was a great story Tony, thanks for sharing that. This is definitely something I plan to pick up again, if anything as a utility to test for light leaks.
we did the same thing during my college days in the early 1980's.. we were a bunch of engineering students who did photography on our spare time. the dad of one of our classmates was an artist who had a large format camera. one day when we have already shot out last 4x5 negative, my classmate's dad suggested that we use bw photo paper which gave us negatives which we then contact printed on another photo paper. the contact printing was a bit long because of the density of the photo paper negative but eventually we got the contact print exposure time right.
We did this back in high school in the 1980s as a class project. We got pretty much the same results you got. Pretty cool seeing someone else doing the same exsperment as we did back than
Hey Azriel, great video. My wife shoots mainly photo paper in her Speed Graphics and pinhole cameras, as well as most of her folding cameras and view cameras. All with fantastic results. She then makes contact prints from them and gives them as gifts.
I definitely knew this worked with some cameras. A friend and mentor of mine took a full 10x8 sheet of RC photo paper and shot a portrait of me on it with his 8x10 view camera. It was quite an experience. Never seen it done with 35mm or medium format cameras before though.
The way I got into film photography was because of this. Me and my uncle made a pin-hole camera out of a shoebox and we just used a darkroom paper to take the shot. It really got me hooked with the magic of film, seeing a negative come out of a white paper in a darkroom is something I still marvel at. Great video!
I enjoyed watching your experimentation and making people aware of paper negatives. Paper negatives have been around since the earliest days of photography but over the past decades they have been mostly for pinhole. Large format film has become so expensive that many of us use paper negatives instead or in addition to sheet film. The results can actually be quite good but to get the best results you should pre-flash the paper to control the contrast and improve dynamic range. Just flash the paper under the enlarger with just enough light that it doesn’t actually start to fog the paper. Once that’s done load the paper in the camera and shoot it. You also need to use a proper iso if you aren’t using flash. I typically use iso 3 for Ilford Multigrade paper so shutter speeds tend to be quite slow. You can also use Ilford Direct Positive paper which will give a positive image.
Thank you for this and your other videos. Paper speed is approximately 6 ASA. I was using paper negatives to experiment during the construction of pinhole cameras, then ran a pinhole camera workshop for number of school groups. We found some paper in the schools neglected darkroom so the exercise cost the school nothing. The main difference is that normal B&W papers are blue sensitive. So blue skies are white, showing little to no cloud detail. Red objects will be rendered very dark. There are large format photographers using paper negatives, then contact printing them for the final image. Subjects without skies are excellent for this.
This is a pretty regular thing in large format photography. Meter for ISO 3 and you are in the ballpark. Sandwich your developed paper negative with another piece of paper and expose it to some light :)
Just before Corona struck, I did this in a Hasselblad and a Sinar 4x5. Really easy to do *BUT* you really need to pre-flasy paper the day of or else the contrast is just way too high. Pre-flashing overcomes the activation energy of the emulsion btw.
Thanks spidiq! This is one of those things I probably could have googled but wanted to see the results for myself. I got a couple recommendations for positive film but it's really pricey stuff!
I'd never looked at the cost but it makes sense it would be expensive being a specialised thing, I remember hearing about it when looking into pinhole photography. Scanning and inverting is easy enough though.
Wow, really? That's horrendous, Large format negative sheets are probably cheaper. Though I guess you could make a double sided darkslide assembly and couple that with a medium format, you'd get a few exposures from a single sheet of 8x10
Awesome, this was basically my first darkroom experience in school. We made pinhole cameras out of film canisters, just a hole punch in the canister, a tiny prick in a piece of tinfoil, and some electrical tape as a shutter. Took it to the darkroom, cut a piece of paper and put it in the canister, close the lid and take it somewhere outside, remove the tape and time for 5 to 15 seconds, go back to the darkroom to develop. I could DM you a couple of the pics on Instagram if you'd like, it was a lot of fun, I look forward to seeing how far you experiment with this.
Azriel Knight for some reason I wasn't getting any comment notifications from RUclips on RUclips itself so only just saw this from Google. Well done Google, at it again with the crappy design...all the notifications I'm getting are upload notifications. Anyway I'll get onto that.
I've shot Ilford paper in medium format and 35mm a bit, for a negative 3 ISO worked for me, if you want a positive you might want to rate it differently, I don't know for sure. And to get a positive you can bleach with potassium permanganate (search for the PDF 'in memory of Afga Scala'), you can then just fog by turning the lights and redevelop. If you can't get permanganate, 12% hydrogen peroxide and some citric acid (john van cleave explains it) will also bleach it just fine ready for exposure to light. Harman direct positive just isn't worth it, yea it might do a better job, or not, but if quality is important you just use film, not paper.
Would be interesting if someone came up with an actual 35mm roll of photo paper, wound up into a canister... ultra slow, could possibly be well suited to scanning. Or do a reversal process and have a whole roll of thumbnail sized photos
Great video. Next time you do this, look for some Harman direct positive or Galaxy Hyper Speed paper. Both of these will give you a positive image (as opposed to a negative) using normal darkroom chemistry. The Galaxy paper has a big advantage with a base ISO of 120, which is very high for darkroom paper.
Could you try putting the photo sensitive paper on a flatscreen and try to reprint it on paper. That would be great for printing digital photos. Maybe better than printing them on a printer perhaps.
I saw someone turning a room into an oversized pinhole camera. I think it doesn't have to be a room. When you said that method can't produce "gallery worthy" prints it made me think about the relationship between the density of a negative to the density of darkroom paper: If I make a 300 400 mm print from a 35mm negative I get a size ratio of ~142.8. Let's say I build a pinhole for 600 x 400 mm "darkroom paper negative". But I use the inversion of Black and White for a downsizing! Let's say I go from 600 x 400 mm to 150 x 180 mm. That gives me a ratio of ~8.9. I wonder what can be achieved if one chooses a very dense darkroom paper and a good scanner!
When I did this video I didn't look up the answer so my reactions were genuine, but yeah apparently it's quite common for people to do this with medium and large format cameras.
Great video, I just had the thought that it might be possible to take a photo of a film negative and have it show up on the photo paper. I’m gonna try it if I still have any photo paper.
This is very cool, i know people do contact prints from paper negarives, so i wonder, whould it be possible to make enlargements with the paper negatives? Or whould you need an enormously strong light bulb on your enlarger head to work?
When i did this, i looked up what the paper was rated at and it was about an ISO of 8. really enjoyed this and would like to figure out how to put it into a roll or something
Have you tried using film developer like d76 to develop paper? Somewhere I heard it’s much gentler and will decrease contrast. Normally I use multi grade developer that’s been open for a long while. Oxidized orange.
I used some dd-x 1+4 to dev some fp4+ 4x5 and then used it to dev some paper negs. It worked fairly well. I didn’t do a controlled comparison. That could make a cool vid!
I would even suggest that you try to fit some of that paper in an empty 120 roll and load it in the camera, I know the paper is way thicker than regular film but maybe you could fit enough to have 2 or 3 shots and then, use it outside.
The most I could get is 10 inches (my paper size). I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but the next time I try this I may go larger than medium format. If you browse the comments people gave some awesome examples of photographers using this technique.
This is what I do trying to learn 4x5 with the budget of a student, had some real good results. I did tests and ISO seems to vary with multi grade due to the different sensitivities on different layers of emulsion. ISO 3 for anything indoors but I use 12 on a sunny day with warm light. Your mileage may vary though
Azriel Knight I'm not that experienced and borrow a MPP micro technical from college but you want a camera with movements that are enough and a lens that covers the whole negative even with movements. I think the best thing you can do is just buy a 4x5 and have FUN with it!
If you do try paper negs in a 4x5 you'll find that the dimension to cut the paper ot fit the sheet holder is slightly less than 4 inches and slighly less than 5. 4x5 is not 4x5. Go figure. I rate my multigrade RC paper at 6 ISO/ASA as a starting place.
how about reversal processing with bleach and a second developing after a second exposure to light? so you end up with a positive image on your paper. gonna try this with a pinhole cam i guess :D
You should do something out in some public courtyard showing still buildings and blurs where people were. . . . Maybe during an event so theirs allot of them. . . . . Maybe even get i one or two and hold still so your sharp with the building and the blurs are moving around you. (Just an idea.)
That's a good idea :) I've often wanted to do a long exposure on a busy street It's lugging my cheap metal tripod around downtown that's prevented me :P
Nobody mentioned William Henry Fox Talbot, who created the first paper negatives and found that Sodium Thiosulfate fixed photographic images very well. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Fox_Talbot
You could probably use paper as a really cheap film. If you bought a roll of darkroom paper and loaded them into the camera, you could use that as a film - much cheaper than medium format film. Then you could scan/invert digitally.
I had another viewer comment and mention a couple different positive papers. Pretty pricey stuff. When I get a large format camera (someday) I will try for sure.
Did not know the price. (As I am in broke and in college, I would not even dream of a darkroom for myself.) Will you do a thoughts on Ektachrome coming back to life?
Darkrooms can be cheap. In my opinion cheaper than a creative cloud subscription, depending. As far as Ektachrome goes I haven't been really on top of the news. I'm not saying no, but I'd have to do a bunch of research first.
unfortunately, I have yet to use a view camera. But I could probably try it in a couple months. I also forgot to suggest color paper, but I don't think either of us could try that.
If you want to combine your love of film cameras and using paper negatives have a look into Washi film. I've just got hold of some and i'm looking forward to giving it a try.filmwashi.com/
Cool experiment. I posted a link to your video on a photography forum I'm a member of and someone responded with this link to a page of other examples: www.andrewsanderson.com/categories.php?category=0
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
We once did a project with kids building cameras out of metal cookie boxes. We painted it black inside, sealed it with tape and drilled a 0.5mm hole in the bottom. We glued photographic paper on the inside of the lid and used a piece of tape as a shutter. Exposure was about 30 seconds. After developing we scanned the pictures, edited digitally and printed for an exhibition. Worked great.
Azriel, back in 1964 I bought a 50 foot roll of POSITIVE photo paper (made by ANSCO I think) mail ordered from some full page catalog ad in Popular Photography. Perhaps it was military surplus stuff or it had some industrial use. Back then I was a poor farm kid in college and I fell for anything that was cheap. It turned out to be a splendid investment. Like the paper in your experiment it was very forgiving. I recall ecstatic I was that my first test shots worked. I shot scenes on a high contrast snowy morning and they were superb. Most of it made B & W prints from color transparencies. However, on a wild hair idea one winter night I placed sheets of it in a 4 by 5 camera AND I successfully shot photos indoors with flash and outdoors of the skies. That camera, full open was f/3.5 so I time exposed for 10-100 seconds and got some fun movement streaks of stars, moon and airplanes flying by. Wonder if there's any positive material now that might work for you.
That was a great story Tony, thanks for sharing that. This is definitely something I plan to pick up again, if anything as a utility to test for light leaks.
Thanks.Please keep me posted.
we did the same thing during my college days in the early 1980's.. we were a bunch of engineering students who did photography on our spare time. the dad of one of our classmates was an artist who had a large format camera. one day when we have already shot out last 4x5 negative, my classmate's dad suggested that we use bw photo paper which gave us negatives which we then contact printed on another photo paper. the contact printing was a bit long because of the density of the photo paper negative but eventually we got the contact print exposure time right.
I know im late but Ilford makes "Harman direct positive paper"
We did this back in high school in the 1980s as a class project. We got pretty much the same results you got.
Pretty cool seeing someone else doing the same exsperment as we did back than
Very interesting video. I am looking forward to watching more of your work.
Hey Azriel, great video. My wife shoots mainly photo paper in her Speed Graphics and pinhole cameras, as well as most of her folding cameras and view cameras. All with fantastic results. She then makes contact prints from them and gives them as gifts.
I definitely knew this worked with some cameras. A friend and mentor of mine took a full 10x8 sheet of RC photo paper and shot a portrait of me on it with his 8x10 view camera. It was quite an experience. Never seen it done with 35mm or medium format cameras before though.
I supposed I could have googled it but wanted to do it the old fashioned way and see for myself :)
The way I got into film photography was because of this. Me and my uncle made a pin-hole camera out of a shoebox and we just used a darkroom paper to take the shot. It really got me hooked with the magic of film, seeing a negative come out of a white paper in a darkroom is something I still marvel at. Great video!
That's awesome, thanks for sharing!
I enjoyed watching your experimentation and making people aware of paper negatives. Paper negatives have been around since the earliest days of photography but over the past decades they have been mostly for pinhole. Large format film has become so expensive that many of us use paper negatives instead or in addition to sheet film. The results can actually be quite good but to get the best results you should pre-flash the paper to control the contrast and improve dynamic range. Just flash the paper under the enlarger with just enough light that it doesn’t actually start to fog the paper. Once that’s done load the paper in the camera and shoot it. You also need to use a proper iso if you aren’t using flash. I typically use iso 3 for Ilford Multigrade paper so shutter speeds tend to be quite slow. You can also use Ilford Direct Positive paper which will give a positive image.
I had always thought about this idea but never got around.. thanks for taking effort 👌
Glad I could help!
Thank you for this and your other videos.
Paper speed is approximately 6 ASA. I was using paper negatives to experiment during the construction of pinhole cameras, then ran a pinhole camera workshop for number of school groups. We found some paper in the schools neglected darkroom so the exercise cost the school nothing. The main difference is that normal B&W papers are blue sensitive. So blue skies are white, showing little to no cloud detail. Red objects will be rendered very dark.
There are large format photographers using paper negatives, then contact printing them for the final image. Subjects without skies are excellent for this.
Thanks for the comment Kevin!
Man, this is one very cool experiment, the results are awesome and even if there's some stray light, they still look amazing!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
This is a pretty regular thing in large format photography. Meter for ISO 3 and you are in the ballpark. Sandwich your developed paper negative with another piece of paper and expose it to some light :)
I do remember reading about taping paper to the inside of the bevels to check for leaks. I kind figured I was reinventing the wheel but I had fun :)
This might be cool to try on a large format camera or some sort of camera obscura setup.
Just before Corona struck, I did this in a Hasselblad and a Sinar 4x5. Really easy to do *BUT* you really need to pre-flasy paper the day of or else the contrast is just way too high.
Pre-flashing overcomes the activation energy of the emulsion btw.
You can buy positive paper, a lot of pinhole camera photographers use it, Harmann I think make it.
Thanks spidiq! This is one of those things I probably could have googled but wanted to see the results for myself. I got a couple recommendations for positive film but it's really pricey stuff!
I'd never looked at the cost but it makes sense it would be expensive being a specialised thing, I remember hearing about it when looking into pinhole photography.
Scanning and inverting is easy enough though.
yeah like $100 Canadian for 10 sheets. Maybe if I was doing large format and I could slip them into individual cases and take them somewhere.
Wow, really?
That's horrendous, Large format negative sheets are probably cheaper.
Though I guess you could make a double sided darkslide assembly and couple that with a medium format, you'd get a few exposures from a single sheet of 8x10
That was fun! I'll be eager to see what you do next with this technique.
Thanks Ryan!
Great video, Azriel! Love your creativity.. Dont google what will happen - try it first. Love it!
Thanks!
dude you absolute madlad! glad i stumbled onto this vid its cash as heck bro
Thanks :)
Awesome, this was basically my first darkroom experience in school. We made pinhole cameras out of film canisters, just a hole punch in the canister, a tiny prick in a piece of tinfoil, and some electrical tape as a shutter.
Took it to the darkroom, cut a piece of paper and put it in the canister, close the lid and take it somewhere outside, remove the tape and time for 5 to 15 seconds, go back to the darkroom to develop. I could DM you a couple of the pics on Instagram if you'd like, it was a lot of fun, I look forward to seeing how far you experiment with this.
Yeah, send them over! Thanks for sharing!
Azriel Knight for some reason I wasn't getting any comment notifications from RUclips on RUclips itself so only just saw this from Google. Well done Google, at it again with the crappy design...all the notifications I'm getting are upload notifications. Anyway I'll get onto that.
Really enjoyed that episode Azriel it was the tops 👍👍👍👍
Thanks very much!
Hahah crazy! I was thinking about this as well! Amazing how it turned out!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have been wanting to do this for months. Now I know. Thanks
Your channel is so awesome!!
Thanks Erin!
I've shot Ilford paper in medium format and 35mm a bit, for a negative 3 ISO worked for me, if you want a positive you might want to rate it differently, I don't know for sure. And to get a positive you can bleach with potassium permanganate (search for the PDF 'in memory of Afga Scala'), you can then just fog by turning the lights and redevelop. If you can't get permanganate, 12% hydrogen peroxide and some citric acid (john van cleave explains it) will also bleach it just fine ready for exposure to light.
Harman direct positive just isn't worth it, yea it might do a better job, or not, but if quality is important you just use film, not paper.
Would be interesting if someone came up with an actual 35mm roll of photo paper, wound up into a canister... ultra slow, could possibly be well suited to scanning. Or do a reversal process and have a whole roll of thumbnail sized photos
Great video. Next time you do this, look for some Harman direct positive or Galaxy Hyper Speed paper. Both of these will give you a positive image (as opposed to a negative) using normal darkroom chemistry. The Galaxy paper has a big advantage with a base ISO of 120, which is very high for darkroom paper.
$60 and $100 respectively for 10 sheets, I just about fell outta my chair ;)
Very interesting! Well done!👍👍👍
Could you try putting the photo sensitive paper on a flatscreen and try to reprint it on paper. That would be great for printing digital photos. Maybe better than printing them on a printer perhaps.
Cool experiment!!
Thanks :)
Thank you for this video I really enjoy it . It's so relaxing and inspiring.
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I saw someone turning a room into an oversized pinhole camera. I think it doesn't have to be a room. When you said that method can't produce "gallery worthy" prints it made me think about the relationship between the density of a negative to the density of darkroom paper: If I make a 300 400 mm print from a 35mm negative I get a size ratio of ~142.8. Let's say I build a pinhole for 600 x 400 mm "darkroom paper negative". But I use the inversion of Black and White for a downsizing! Let's say I go from 600 x 400 mm to 150 x 180 mm. That gives me a ratio of ~8.9. I wonder what can be achieved if one chooses a very dense darkroom paper and a good scanner!
I really wanna do this too. Thanks for doing this video :)
Did you just reinvent the polaroid for medium format cameras, just a thought...
When I did this video I didn't look up the answer so my reactions were genuine, but yeah apparently it's quite common for people to do this with medium and large format cameras.
Great experiment, you gave me an idea, thanks a lot for a good video!
Hope it works!
Ilford paper nowadays comes with a sheet telling you the effective ISO of all their papers, witch might help you a little bit with exposure
Right! Thanks :)
Great video, I just had the thought that it might be possible to take a photo of a film negative and have it show up on the photo paper. I’m gonna try it if I still have any photo paper.
I always thought it would be fun to try rolling some photo paper onto a 120 spool and permanently jam my hassy
This is very cool, i know people do contact prints from paper negarives, so i wonder, whould it be possible to make enlargements with the paper negatives? Or whould you need an enormously strong light bulb on your enlarger head to work?
It's an idea, but I think it may just come out a blurry image. Thanks for the comment :)
I like the music in your videos
Thanks very much!! Wish I made it myself ;)
When i did this, i looked up what the paper was rated at and it was about an ISO of 8. really enjoyed this and would like to figure out how to put it into a roll or something
Thanks for the tip! I wanted to go into this experiment "blind" so my reactions were genuine.
Do you have any “reusable” 35mm cartridges for spooling bulk film? You could try making your own roll
I've thought about bulk loading but decided it risks introducing more dust on my film.
Been using Ilford RC glossy paper in 4x5 cameras for years - rate at 6ASA. Then contact print onto same paper to make a positive. Easy!
I'd love to see you 4x5 large format film backs and go out into the wild and see what you'll get!!
pinhole camera. back in the school days we use to create a pinhole cam and load it with darkroom paper. its fun.
dude your AWESOME
Thanks :)
amazing experience dude. also, i want a beard like yours
LOL, thanks for the compliments.
Have you tried using film developer like d76 to develop paper? Somewhere I heard it’s much gentler and will decrease contrast. Normally I use multi grade developer that’s been open for a long while. Oxidized orange.
I may give D76 a shot, thanks.
I used some dd-x 1+4 to dev some fp4+ 4x5 and then used it to dev some paper negs. It worked fairly well. I didn’t do a controlled comparison. That could make a cool vid!
I thought about doing that with Dektol.
Will it work if I use point and shoot camera?
My p and s camera has no settings
It's a simple matter of figureing out the papers ISO start at 4 ( yes 4 not 400) and adjust. Remember it's slow
I would even suggest that you try to fit some of that paper in an empty 120 roll and load it in the camera, I know the paper is way thicker than regular film but maybe you could fit enough to have 2 or 3 shots and then, use it outside.
The most I could get is 10 inches (my paper size). I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but the next time I try this I may go larger than medium format. If you browse the comments people gave some awesome examples of photographers using this technique.
that was very cool.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
This is what I do trying to learn 4x5 with the budget of a student, had some real good results. I did tests and ISO seems to vary with multi grade due to the different sensitivities on different layers of emulsion. ISO 3 for anything indoors but I use 12 on a sunny day with warm light. Your mileage may vary though
Thanks for the input Jake. I've never shot with 4x5 but want to. Where should I start?
Azriel Knight I'm not that experienced and borrow a MPP micro technical from college but you want a camera with movements that are enough and a lens that covers the whole negative even with movements. I think the best thing you can do is just buy a 4x5 and have FUN with it!
If you do try paper negs in a 4x5 you'll find that the dimension to cut the paper ot fit the sheet holder is slightly less than 4 inches and slighly less than 5. 4x5 is not 4x5. Go figure. I rate my multigrade RC paper at 6 ISO/ASA as a starting place.
That’s confusing because when you do pin whole with paper you don’t get a negative??
how about reversal processing with bleach and a second developing after a second exposure to light? so you end up with a positive image on your paper. gonna try this with a pinhole cam i guess :D
6:58 - you never know :)
:P
Could make a contact print. Emulsion to emulsion with another sheet of paper. Not sure if it would be sharp at all
I once tried to make a roll "film" out of paper to use in my Kodak 3A and it ..... didn't work well. I may try it again sometime.
That might be interesting!
I've always wondered how easy this would be. I suppose pinhole cameras are exactly the same principle.
Yeah. I sorta went in blind so I could find out for myself.
Use a cable release is good testing habit
You should do something out in some public courtyard showing still buildings and blurs where people were. . . . Maybe during an event so theirs allot of them. . . . . Maybe even get i one or two and hold still so your sharp with the building and the blurs are moving around you. (Just an idea.)
That's a good idea :) I've often wanted to do a long exposure on a busy street It's lugging my cheap metal tripod around downtown that's prevented me :P
Amazing.
Thanks :)
I'm gonna test my hacked Polaroids and such for light leaks using paper from now on...........................thanks for the tip.
Ha! That was fantastic!
awesome, glad you liked it :)
I have several Mamiya's with single shot backs that I use paper negs with. Works great and cheaper than using film
Do you mean Polaroid backs? If that is so, I might be tempted to try.
Great idea! A little similar to a negative Polaroid. As the final images cannot be reproduced unlike a negative and is a one off like a Polaroid.
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Nobody mentioned William Henry Fox Talbot, who created the first paper negatives and found that Sodium Thiosulfate fixed photographic images very well.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Fox_Talbot
I gotta tip for ya, Harman Direct positive paper on large format.
Ah yes, I did find out about that after. What scared me away was the price. :)
You could probably use paper as a really cheap film. If you bought a roll of darkroom paper and loaded them into the camera, you could use that as a film - much cheaper than medium format film. Then you could scan/invert digitally.
Could use positive paper in large format cameras for landscape photography. Although I do not know what kind of dynamic range you might get...
I had another viewer comment and mention a couple different positive papers. Pretty pricey stuff. When I get a large format camera (someday) I will try for sure.
Did not know the price. (As I am in broke and in college, I would not even dream of a darkroom for myself.) Will you do a thoughts on Ektachrome coming back to life?
Darkrooms can be cheap. In my opinion cheaper than a creative cloud subscription, depending. As far as Ektachrome goes I haven't been really on top of the news. I'm not saying no, but I'd have to do a bunch of research first.
Using paper negatives is well established.
Simple matter of finding the correct ISO Usually start a ISO 3 and work from there.
Thank you :)
Haha. Awesome
Thank you :)
Interesting.
I've been shooting on paper directly and did reversal process on that. so i got direct paper images
Wicked. I thought the paper was too expensive for my taste.
using a view camera would be interesting though...
Do you have an example?
unfortunately, I have yet to use a view camera. But I could probably try it in a couple months.
I also forgot to suggest color paper, but I don't think either of us could try that.
What about Colour Reversal paper. Ummmm!?
Awesome idea. If I had the $$$$
Solarise the print it may look more like a positive
If you want to combine your love of film cameras and using paper negatives have a look into Washi film. I've just got hold of some and i'm looking forward to giving it a try.filmwashi.com/
I'll have a look at that. Thanks so much :)
Shhhhhh don’t let this secret out - 8x10 costs too much as it is
:)
bigger computer haha
Yeah you can it is called a pin hole camera.
Thanks Joshua!
Duh!! Paper negatives?
Cool experiment. I posted a link to your video on a photography forum I'm a member of and someone responded with this link to a page of other examples: www.andrewsanderson.com/categories.php?category=0
Nice! Yeah I figured I wasn't doing anything new but it was something I wanted to try before I googled.