Film is dead ? are Paper Negatives a good substitute for film.
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Another area of Analog photography the Paper Negative, sit down with a coffee or mug of tea and enjoy watching me work on ways to work with paper-negative prints on the computer and creating contact prints in the darkroom.
All sounds easy, however, to get the best quality from the paper negs, preparation has to be put in before you expose a sheet of paper so it might even rival negative quality, enjoy. Your contributions help me make these learning video's.
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Excellent work! Thanks very much for the full depth video! I just posted a video of my 11x14 camera and I am using paper negatives. Instead of a yellow filter I have installed an Ilford 00 Multigrade filter directly into my lens and it is working excellently!
Rich your camera is brilliant, well done on a superb build. Looking forward to the follow up ones you mentioned.
Martin, I've watched nearly all of your videos over the years and this might be (1) best instruction and (2) most timely subject. Its consoling to know that there is an accurate and thorough instructional video for paper negs now. Best to learn from a greybeard with real experience over a snazzy 20-something with a $100 hair style who thinks they know it all after a couple of years with a camera. Please continue the great work.
That's great, the flower pot picture looks magical. I tried putting small pieces of photo paper into a 35mm film camera, and it worked. The resolution wasn't the best, but the exposure and contrast were very good from the first attempt. I did that just for fun, while with larger formats, I think it makes perfect sense.
I never knew you could do a contact print with a paper negative 😮
Thank you for the work involved here to experiment and master calotype
I enjoyed this and all your videos. As a side note I have an 8x10 camera that I have shot paper negatives. I also have an 8x10 enlarger that I have enlarged the negatives. It works quite well. However it must have a very brite head to work.
G’day Martin, and thanks for always posting informative content that’s pleasing to watch and sparks my creativity. I have a question: have you ever shot 6x12 medium format? Or any of the panoramic cameras? There are a lot of expensive cameras all the way down to the Holga 120 pan. I was thinking about trying that myself. I’ve been investigating ever since I saw a video of a bloke shooting with a 4x10 large format camera. Really cool aspect ratio.
I have a pre-war Agfa Billy that I might try shooting some 35mm film through with adapters to fit the cassette, just to experiment. Not sure about the “sprocket shots” but only a $17 experiment. Anyway, looking forward to your next video and thanks for inspiring me to build my first pinhole camera with my father in law in his wood shop. Take care!
Hi Martin
Watched until the end and was impressed with the results, the reciprocating Angel you were worried about the Sky, nice, different angle as well and under the tree, the moving leaves gives it an intriguing effect re subject, very good all around!
I’ll look in my filters, although that is an unusual size, I’ve had that and used step up rings or even step down on my Phone attachment from 67mm to 58mm and lower depending on effect, but it’s cheaper than buying these magnetic 🧲 and you can get some really different old filters.
I’ll let you know re filter! Regards DG
Thank you, Martin, this is by far the most comprehensive explanation of the process. I had been planning to try this too, and I’m so glad I watched this before I get started. Especially the use of a yellow filter and pre-flashing are things I wouldn’t have thought of. Well, using film dev didn’t come to my mind either 😅. I’m just wondering why pre-flashing can’t be a tad longer. All in all you’d get a fogged paper negative but film does have this too, even if we call it base+fog. I assume this would even help to get better highlights.
It's OK, sports photography is boring anyway 😂
Fascinating. I do not have a darkroom. But I am going to experiment with flashing in the film holder with a flash set at high speed.
Thank you for making this video! Thoroughly enjoyed every second of it.
I really appreciate the work put into the video, how educational it is, and how great the results were.
thanks again Martin, brilliant
Dear Martin, nice vid and good man :) Nevertheless, I would lilke to remark you could have had it a little bit easier:
1. It does not matter really if the flashing is just so that it will not fog - because with both the copy process or scanning you can set the black point as you wish. Had you chosen one of the first probes which gave a light grey on the paper you would even have had the advantage that you would have lifted the future depths (in the positive) more out of the flat part of the gradation curve, thus improving shadow detail even much more.
2. Then, you could have continued your probes in the other direction instead, towards darker. Then you could have picked the one grey that resembles 18% grey. Then you could have put your exposure meter into the light of the enlarger and measured, then adjusted or calculated for the respective ISO.
Then you'd have both in one step: better shadow detail plus approximate ISO (add filter factor arithmetically).
And then there is one thing you can see in your paper negs: they don't have the "Lichthofschutzschicht" - what is that in English? - means, strong light, sky or reflections will spread within the paper emulsion and thus be enlarged and soft- contoured. With film, the backside is usually blackened to avoid this effect. This is quite a technical deficiency with paper neg, besides the low ISO. Can be used to make photos look 'historical', though.
Regards from the mainland! :)
I would love to see a video using that method sounds very interesting plus the end result , thanks for your comment
Great video Martin. All my darkroom equipment is boxed up, I can still develop films, just don’t have any room for setting the enlarger up. Have you any tips for flashing paper when you haven’t got access to an enlarger. Do you buy 4x5 paper, or cut your own from larger sheets. 4x5 Ilford paper seems inflated in price.
I cut my own, use a 7 watt bulb with some sort of diffuser or it
Great results! which yellow filter are you using? I've tried a the darkroom printing contrast filters but I think they are blocking too much UV? light.
@@willraywilson1 just a 2x yellow filter
What a lot of had work Martin! By the way how do you set f11.7?
Hi Peter, the lens AP ring is click less, so set it 3/4 way between f11 and f16
Hi. I'm confused. if you can't see any difference when it's flashed according to your test, why di it? Isn't the point to build a tiny bit of "exposure" into the paper? Thanks.
The tiny bit of exposure was there just at paper white, however, it’s enough to alter the exposure in camera
Hi Martin
I have been in contact before, but at the Adonal stage i thought id ask, at the beginning you mentioned the yellow filter and allowing 1stop for that, but i didnt hear you make that adjustment in the cemetery, just for clarification, did you allow that or like happens with me sometimes, did old age kick in? Also what size filter is the one your missing on the Big G as i have many filters and it would be nice to see that tape gone, such a beautiful piece of kit.
And as always, an excellent video with lots of little interesting exposures of information. Regards DG
I did make it simply doubling the exposure reading, the filter size is 40.5 although the one I used was too big so I fixed it over the lens with tape
Nice. Got me inspired to play around more with paper. I’ve actually enlarged a 4x5 paper negative portrait to 8x10 and the slight softness worked beautifully on the face. So, there might be cases where you could enlarge rather than contact print.
Yea never tried that , thanks for the info
Thank you, Martin...
Very good VID you have produced.
Great video, thanks! Lots of useful information! I recently tried flashing some paper to print a high contrast infrared negative and it worked really well. Also, I tested some Mummy 400 film to determine the ISO and it dawned on me to use a half-frame darkslide so I wasted less film!
I really enjoy watching your videos. You are a breath of fresh air in photography. Visiting the forgotten realm of unique film photography is such a welcome choice. The bonus...you actually take great photos worthy of hanging on the wall. Most channels on the tube puch focus on product reviews or "how to" vidoes that have mediocre at best photographs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge of film photography with us who are passionate about it. You should check out Howard Powne. A nice gent out of Australia who has an immense collection of film cameras and goes in to depth on every one of the cameras he owns. Another gem of a film based channel I think you would appreciate.
The angel composition made a nice print. Thank you for explaining the intricacies of your process.
Marvelous. This peaks my interest in comparing an image using a paper negative and a low ISO film. I’ll use a similar 4x5 Crown Graphic to do so. I’ve always used paper in pinhole cameras but have yet to try it in a lensed camera. Thank you sir.
Thank you Martin, this needed so much patience, and the results were amazingly beautiful.
Love your videos, thanks for making them.
Great video and instruction on the paper negatives ,PQ'ed my interest and off we go
This is one of the best videos Ive seen on shooting paper negatives. Thank you Martin!!
Great video! I love using paper negatives.
Love it Martin. Thank you.
Hallo Martin,
Sehr inspirierend! Vielen Dank und Grüße aus Berlin 👍
Thanks for sharing !!
So this is paper normally sold for positive prints, but used instead for negatives?
Yes correct
I had no idea you could do prints from paper negs! Brilliant
Yes! Thank you!
You mentioned about testing the papers ISO, isn't it supposed to be printed on the packaging and or on the company's website? I read somewhere that most paper is rated from 3-7. Ps, you have a smashingly awesome looking garden! 😄
That is what I thought as well. Although perhaps the flashing changes the ISO.
@@roytofilovski9530 Presumably, as stated in this video and from watching another film shooter, it's the same as making a print in the darkroom. Testing the papers latitude when exposing it too light, if that makes sense. Although I've never done either, I'm a newbie when it comes too this! I've heard of the term "flashing" as taking a sample sheet and while in a darkroom, turning on a normal lamp and exposing it too the paper for X number of seconds and it's supposed too tone down the contrast. Just take what I say with a pinch of salt, like I said I've never attempted any of this!
Turns out it's paper meant normally for positive prints. Hence the need to test the ISO.
@@roytofilovski9530 What I'm trying too figure out is if one can develop images shot on direct positive paper in a monobath (all in one) type developer. Any thoughts...apart from experimenting? Cheers
@@kdj.imagery4317 I've never developed a photograph so I have no clue. I have no clue what "monobath" means.....
What a wonderful set of photographs.