PLEASE READ THIS!!! I am a mechanic by trade. Educated and worked with cars for 13 years now. You installed that controll arm wrong. you NEVER want to tighten the bolts on the bushings while the controll arm is hanging. This will cause premature wear on the bushings. Instead you want to put a hydraulic jack beneath the brake disc and jack it up untill you're lifting the car so that the cars weight is on the controll arms, THEN you can tighten the bushings. By doing what you did, you are pinching the bushings in a location they aren't meant to be. and when you lower your car down they will have alot of twist on em causing them to rapidly wear out.
@@dacel88 you say to jack it up by the brake disc until your lifting the car. This just doesn’t sound good. Do u mean jack it up until the arm is no longer hanging down and then tighten the bolts.
@@Martin-tr8be Yup, jack it up untill it lifts the car. It sounds scary but there's actually not a whole lot of weight on the disc. I've done this several times myself as i am a mechanic. No danger to it what so ever. The reason for doing so is you want maximum weight on the axle before you tighten the bolts because then you tighten them in the riding position. you could also just jack it on the controll arm itself, i just do it on the disc cause it makes access easier.
@@dacel88 I think I know what you mean but it’s just the way you have worded it. Sounds like you are jacking the car up on the disc so car lifts off the floor but ur just jacking it up enough for the arm to lift to the correct position for you to tighten the bolts.
Thanks for the video, however, it is possible to remove the old one without tearing the entire knuckle and the strut apart. I used a jack to hold up the knuckle/rotor assembly.
8:30 Just a little detail note for ur next time replacing, it would have been a billion times easier and better if u would have instal this bolt first instead of the front one👍🏼 next time try it as I say and u may save a lot of time and less risk of causing damage 👍🏼
I have to do this job at least once a year on my lancer. I've tried all different brands, moog, AC Delco, etc. The balljoint always fails prematurely. At least the part is cheap I also don't remove the CV from the hub
Did this today without removing the shock absorber from the hub, just undid the pinch bolt on the bottom and the 2 bolts on the control arm and it can be removed without stripping all the hub down etc
I'm going to guess that is because you've installed it wrong, As this man did. Never tighten the bolts on the bushes untill you've put full load on the wheels. Either by putting the tyres back on and lowering the car onto the ground THEN tighten - Or by putting a jack beneath the brake rotor and lift it up till the jack lifts the car.
Quand tu ne sais pas travailler, c'est cela que ça donne! Défait beaucoup trop de pièces pour rien! Tu n’a que trois bolts a défaire pas plus n’y moins!
There is a known problem with the sub frame of 2008-2010 Lancer and outlanders where they easily rust from road salt. In NA There is a campaign so you should get your sub frame replaced free of charge, sadly - In norway, I had to pay for the parts and do it myself
@@Blakethegoat Well you would have to call your local mitsubishi dealership to get it verified. But i know there is a recall on 2008 to 2010 Mitsubishi Lancers and Outlanders in North America for exactly this issue. That means it should all be covered and you won't have to pay a dime.. if you are in north america that is.
There's no need to do all that work, the control arm come out and goes back in fine by just unbolting it from the cross member and ball joint..
Zacchias Williams totally agree
👍 agree
ruclips.net/user/shortst2HMwhw0RC4?feature=share
Thanks im about to change it on my Mitsubishi . I agree with you
Yes, why did he remove the big axle nut or brake caliber 🤔😄
PLEASE READ THIS!!! I am a mechanic by trade. Educated and worked with cars for 13 years now. You installed that controll arm wrong. you NEVER want to tighten the bolts on the bushings while the controll arm is hanging. This will cause premature wear on the bushings. Instead you want to put a hydraulic jack beneath the brake disc and jack it up untill you're lifting the car so that the cars weight is on the controll arms, THEN you can tighten the bushings.
By doing what you did, you are pinching the bushings in a location they aren't meant to be. and when you lower your car down they will have alot of twist on em causing them to rapidly wear out.
Beneath the brake disc ? You don’t mean jacking the wheel hub up by the brake disc do you. Would you jack the control arm up under the ball joint.
@@Martin-tr8be Nah you can easily just jack it up by the brake disc. Allows for easier access and you won't harm the brake disc in any way.
@@dacel88 you say to jack it up by the brake disc until your lifting the car. This just doesn’t sound good. Do u mean jack it up until the arm is no longer hanging down and then tighten the bolts.
@@Martin-tr8be Yup, jack it up untill it lifts the car. It sounds scary but there's actually not a whole lot of weight on the disc. I've done this several times myself as i am a mechanic. No danger to it what so ever.
The reason for doing so is you want maximum weight on the axle before you tighten the bolts because then you tighten them in the riding position. you could also just jack it on the controll arm itself, i just do it on the disc cause it makes access easier.
@@dacel88 I think I know what you mean but it’s just the way you have worded it. Sounds like you are jacking the car up on the disc so car lifts off the floor but ur just jacking it up enough for the arm to lift to the correct position for you to tighten the bolts.
Great vid 👍 didn’t have to take of the hub or tie rod tho
Thanks for the video, however, it is possible to remove the old one without tearing the entire knuckle and the strut apart. I used a jack to hold up the knuckle/rotor assembly.
that's exactly what i was thinking
OMG PLEASE DON'T DO THIS!
8:30 Just a little detail note for ur next time replacing, it would have been a billion times easier and better if u would have instal this bolt first instead of the front one👍🏼 next time try it as I say and u may save a lot of time and less risk of causing damage 👍🏼
You have anymore vids on lancers 2011 up
Both lower engine mounts?
Nice video man! Why didn't you tighten the bolts by spec's torques?
Hey mate what was the symptom that pointed to changing the control arm?
Tire wear was uneven and wiggling the tire in and out was super lost
@@jfGarage4k clunk sound too over bumps . Axle you will know off bat left right turn . But control arms definitely affect ride smoothness
@@jfGarage4k to u cain et
I have to do this job at least once a year on my lancer. I've tried all different brands, moog, AC Delco, etc. The balljoint always fails prematurely. At least the part is cheap
I also don't remove the CV from the hub
Hmmm that is weird that you have to replace them ones a year, the good thing about it is covered under warranty
@@jfGarage4k yeah thank God. Great video btw
Did this today without removing the shock absorber from the hub, just undid the pinch bolt on the bottom and the 2 bolts on the control arm and it can be removed without stripping all the hub down etc
I'm going to guess that is because you've installed it wrong, As this man did.
Never tighten the bolts on the bushes untill you've put full load on the wheels. Either by putting the tyres back on and lowering the car onto the ground THEN tighten - Or by putting a jack beneath the brake rotor and lift it up till the jack lifts the car.
Quand tu ne sais pas travailler, c'est cela que ça donne! Défait beaucoup trop de pièces pour rien! Tu n’a que trois bolts a défaire pas plus n’y moins!
Bro, you did WAY to much work lmao
so many wrongs in this video... i really hope u go to workshop and let them re-tight all the nuts and bolts
Is this Mitsubishi Lancer rusting so much underneath?
Ya.. its covered with rust. Here in north American we used salt on the road to melt the snow and ice causing mental on are vehicle to rust
@@jfGarage4k thank you!
There is a known problem with the sub frame of 2008-2010 Lancer and outlanders where they easily rust from road salt.
In NA There is a campaign so you should get your sub frame replaced free of charge, sadly - In norway, I had to pay for the parts and do it myself
@@dacel88 I can get my subframe replaced free?
@@Blakethegoat Well you would have to call your local mitsubishi dealership to get it verified.
But i know there is a recall on 2008 to 2010 Mitsubishi Lancers and Outlanders in North America for exactly this issue. That means it should all be covered and you won't have to pay a dime.. if you are in north america that is.