I leave here my tips for nylon printing on creality 3 s1 pro. I got successfully printed pa-6 with bellow parameters: hb temp: 85’C. Nozzle temp 260’C. Cura settings: 0,4mm nozzle, 1-st layer hight 0,3mm, regular layer hight 0,4mm, layer width 0,5 mm. First layer flow 140%, first layer width 150% and it sticks to standard pei with no fancy tricks
Came upon your channel while researching this particular printer and I have to say I absolutely love you. You remind me of the guys I used to watch on tv as a kid
Love the video, I bought the Ender 3 S1 and just ordered an all metal hot end and nozzle upgrade for $26 USD or $42 CAD still a great deal. I can handle the firmware upgrade myself. If I’ve been able to order the pro though I would’ve ordered the pro instead
Very bold words to put it on a class the same as the prusa you’ve said yourself that when you just want a print to work you build it on your prusa we will see if you actually stick to the ender the prusa is often Imitated never duplicated there is a reason they are 5 weeks out on shipping I hope you’re right and this thing holds up time will tell great work as always!!
I got that printer yesterday (very first 3D printer) and I only have PETG filament (actually read it was fairly easy to print and a bit more durable than the PLA) . The models came off without any force at all. One literally fell off when turning the bed to the side, no material left sticking. I didn't put anything on the surface. So you may use PETG on the original bed without problem.
Excellent RUclips video! I purchased the Ender 3 S 1 pro about a month ago and I am loving it! I have not tried printing with any other filament other than PLA but I am looking forward to trying them !
Blue painters tape just rocks and is an excellent weapon in any toolbox. I seriously recommend folks have this on hand.. It works great on the bed for materials your having difficulty with and it works great in post processing to mask parts while painting. It's also much stronger than regular masking tape. But the best feature is that while it sticks really good, it can be removed really easily. Always keep some at hand.. Personally I find product such as gluestick, while does (maybe) give a little adhesion, in reality what they are good for is as a release agent - ie. It forms a barrier between the print and the bed, so when the print bed cools for the most part the print comes right off without ripping chunks from the bed (especially glass). I feel that products on bed should be viewed more as a release than a glue.. It would have been nice to see the crystals being printed, but I guess I'll have to check out the file.. The vacuum bags are great though the valve does eventually fail on you, but that's no problem as the bags are not ultra expensive. I do find though that the spool gets bent out of shape though being compressed by the bag - I'm thinking about printing some kind of support for the spool - I don't know if it will help. I also have issues with the dry box spindles not allowing smoth movement of the spool. Maybe I'll look into just why this is happening and if there is a fix. It may even be the tired spools themselves. Anyway good video and thank you Dr vax.. 😊
It is interesting to find someone using it in 2022 - it's a real throwback to the days when everyone was experimenting. Check out RUclips videos from 2010-2017. Painter's tape. ABS juice. Mirrors from IKEA. (Which, incidentally, is what I use on my X2 - just clip one to the bed, use glue stick, works for most things.) The mirror sheets would actually make a good substrate should I choose to try those PEI film stickers - no need to apply it to the built-in bed, apply it to a mirror instead, and it's instantly removable. I suppose I could put blue tape (or plastic tape, if I wanted to print polypropylene) on one if I needed to also. And you get a pack of four for six bucks.
@@iskandartaib I swear by blur tape for some jobs.. for instance, I seem to get a lot of trouble with asa - blue tape to the rescue.. And when painting, rather than mark the piece with tape, the blue stuff comes right off. Sometimes the old ways are the best ways
Awesome & valuable review. The Ender 3S1 seems to be a great deal for commercial grade type products for functional applications. I have been looking for an robust printer for exotic materials & this seems to be the best value to fit the bill. Thanks!
Nice video, thanks for sharing! Something that has worked well for me on nylonX bed adhesion is aquanet hairspray on glass. Has been my go-to for many years.
I'm sure this has been tried, but I'd put some desiccant bags in the printer dryer (in each of the corners --drilling out a good sized hole in each). And when not in use, I'd try to find a way to seal it up (a gasket all around and some tape over the filament hole) and attach a vacuum pump up to it. If you had a pressure sensor inside the dryer (connected to an Arduino or Raspberry), you could keep turn on the pump when the vacuum started to drop.
Sr im from Mexico and i was looking for some test on the carbon fiber reinforced filament, thank god i found you jajaja such a nice information, thank you sr, subscribed inmediately
Спасибо за интересный рассказ Друг мой! Вчера купил S1 pro и жду когда его доставят. Спасибо что подтвердил мое понимание в отношении использования инженерных материалов на этом принтере! Удачи!!!
Two things: Could you share a link for the three wrenches you mentioned (torque wrench for the Ruby nozzle, the metal heating element wrench, and the robo grip from Rigid ). Also, would you do a video about bed leveling on the Ender 3 S1 Pro? I have seen your other videos on leveling, but it seems that it is a bit different on the Pro. Thanks.
Great video as usual. After starting out using painters tape, I'd rather not go back unless I have to. I print on a PRUSA at work and have printed some Taulman bridge with limited success. I now have a garalite clad spring steel bed for my next attempt but l might give the painters tape another try if it does not work.
I’m using the sprite pro kit on my e3v2, 422 board, Jyers modified to give a 60 second 9 position BL touch probing ( CR touch on another printer) and 230x230 Ned area, 300c hotend. I’m loving how well it’s printing! But you brought up an interesting point about replacement nozzles. How does one verify the new nozzle is flush tight against the all metal tube when replacing a nozzle? I’m assuming if the nozzle barrel length is identical to the original it’s ok once tightened? Or are there a few extra threads on the nozzle length to snug it up? So far I’ve only printed pla and Petg for a short time so I haven’t explored changing or substituting a new type nozzle. Maybe a follow up video on sprite pro nozzle changing? Thanks.
@@MakeWithTech Does this new printer use a new kind of nozzle, or does it use the standard Mark 8 nozzle a standard Ender 3 uses? The nose looks different.
Thanks! I am looking a investing in an S1 pro currently, it will be my first printer, I am a total newbie. Everything made sense, and was very helpful. Did you have your s1 in any type of enclosure for the Nylon or Nylon-X? Wondering how much value is added with a soft enclosure, seems like a filament dryer is more important, though I am in Denver, so may not be an issue here. Thanks again!
Thank you for all the great videos! As someone that's recently reviewed both the Ender 3 S1 Pro and the Super Racer, which would you suggest for someone who wants to use mostly PETG, doesn't care about speed and primarily wants quality and ease of use? (I wish both had larger print areas, but I'll just have to get over that.). By ease of use, I'm referring to the tuning and other efforts to get the best results (for instance the SR appears to have a very easy E-Step calibration routine). ...Maybe a head-to-head comparison video would be popular? :) Thanks again.
If you're printing MAINLY PETG and not interested in nylons or PC, want something bigger, and am not concerned about speed, I'd consider the Artillery Sidewinder X2. There are similar printers from other manufacturers as well - Two Trees makes the Bluer Plus, Creality makes several versions of the CR-10. Most of these use Bowden tubes, however, the X2 is direct drive. And rather than the Ender 3 S1 Pro I'd consider the regular Ender 3 S1, if you want to go that route.
@@iskandartaib hmm. I started with a Anycubic too. But if someone ask me what printer he should buy these 2 would be my suggestion. The Prusa will print without the need of tuning or modding it and the Voron is a mod and tuning monster. There is a new printer coming soon but still on kickstarter for now.
Were you ever able to make the video looking at the breaking stress for each of the different materials? I would love to see that but I couldn't find it on your channel. Thanks!
I am finally decided to replace my 3D printer and I am purchasing Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro so my question is, can I use my software from Prusa that I’ve been working with all these years? If your answer is yes, I cannot see the printer on their list of printers, so which printer should I choose? That makes the slicer work thank you very much Eli
I stopped the video when you said cura. I also have 2 enders and i'm completely aware and i know why it's bad. For most users the preassembled prusa makes absolutely more sense.
I have the same printer, the only difference is I haven't been able to print with it. not sure if I am doing something wrong or what. I have tried to get help from creality but no help from them. could you do a video of how to set the temperature choosing your print and then how to start the print, so I have some way of telling if something is wrong with my printer or if it's just me? Thanks
Hello , just started following you , love the videos, having trouble with following your steps for 3 line count to mimic vase mode with line width of 1.2 , no top layers, and 0 infill , with vase mode I get a time of 3 hrs and with your steps I get a time of 13 hrs, not sure what I'm missing
I really wanted to buy the "Ender 3 S1 Pro" its on sale for 399.00 on Amazon. BUT , I wasted 1 yr learning to draw solids with Fusion 360 and was transitioning to CAM ( I am a CNC Machinist ) when they pulled the plug. I was really pissed because I was about to purchase a CNC Router for Hobby playing. Now I want a 3d printer and still no CAD that is affordable so its time to give up on those dreams. Since 360 is cloud based, they could determine who was abusing it and cut them off, NOT ME !!!!!!!!
Hi Irv, I had exactly the same problem as you found with EIBOS single roll filament dryer box feeding filament direct into a FLSUN SR. Caused the extruder to skip steps. So I too use the EIBOS to dry filaments and then place them into SUNLU filament dryer box ( which are NOT very good at drying filament ) to feed the filament direct into the printer. The SUNLU roller bearing work much better. Refering to Chess Knight's query re printing PETG, I have had a lot of trouble with my FLSUN SR printing PETG - model letting go of the bed after a couple of layers - tried glass, PEI, Glues. Will go back to the old painter's tape.
Your great videos really helped me get this hobby going for me. I bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro and loving it. However, i have a question you may be able to answer. My Ender print bed is 220x220mm, but the file i need to print is a tiny bit larger than 220 mm. I tried setting the printer to 235x235 in Cura, but whatever i try, the printer refuses to print larger than 220. I suspect i need to edit some G code to make this possible? Can you point me in the right direction?
@@koosy2987 just make sure when you do that you modify your external infill angles and support angles 45° as well otherwise you may run into support problems and infill problems.. I use simplify 3d for my s1 pro and I had to do that for a recent print
Irv Which Printer would you suggest for a Person who has been 2D Printing for about 2-3 months and wants a Printer that Prints and doesn't need all the work to keep the printer printing. I have an Anycubic Vyper and i'm having a lot of problems with.
Thanks for the great review. This was helpful in deciding to purchase the printer. My original Ender 3 is still going strong but with the cost of all the upgrades I want to do to it, it makes more sense to get this instead. Thanks!
youtube has been wonky for a while now, they auto delete a lot of ppls comments that arent even bad stuff, it happens to me too and i see other people saying the same thing, its unfortunate
Laughing 😅If you think assembling a prussa takes too long, I made my first one from scratch including my own circuit board design. Disclaimer- I eventually switched to commercial ones when the quality improved. But my one did work! 12 years later, my CR6 Max even used the same microcontroller I used in a smaller pinout. The E3 S1 Pro is great. I've diverged off printing my own designs for a couple of weeks to print some other people's articulated animal designs.
Um...your math is a little off $379 to $499 is $120 difference; not $80. Even with your on-screen correction for the S1 @ $399; that's still $100 difference, not $80.
Very interesting. I use a printer with direct drive and an E3D all metal hotend with a hardened coated nozzle. I print engineering not decorative parts, so always interested in videos like this. Never tried nylon because of the reported moisture problems which sound like hard work to control, but may do so now. However, have you ever tried polycarbonate with or without carbon fibre as an engineering material? It needs high temp, up to around 300/100C (which my printer will do) but has the reputation of being very strong (similar to nylon, possibly less flexible) but from materials websites should have less of a moisture issue. I have tried Priline PC+CF which is good to print with, but seems to ooze a lot. However it is obviously not pure PC because it prints at around 230 to 240C so it must be a blend - they do not say of what. Would be very interested in a video comparing nylon and polycarbonate.
Excellent video. Thank you. The ONLY PROBLEM IS that you speak to people with easy access to the stuff and stores you mentioned AND NOT to people that have difficulty getting stuff from even AMAZON. Please wake up and realise that America IS NOT THE ONLY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD but IS ONE OF THE FEW STILL STUCK in the imperial system of measuring stuff.
Gave your video a share on my Facebook page for a shoutout hope it gets you some fallows and interest into learning with desktop technologies 😍😎 😁 🤩 I really Injoy your videos .... 💗🇨🇦 Cheers 😊
Yep. Sometimes my mouth gets ahead of my head. That said the prices are always changing. Right not the S1 pro is $479 on the Creality site. So it is getting closer.
I leave here my tips for nylon printing on creality 3 s1 pro. I got successfully printed pa-6 with bellow parameters: hb temp: 85’C. Nozzle temp 260’C. Cura settings: 0,4mm nozzle, 1-st layer hight 0,3mm, regular layer hight 0,4mm, layer width 0,5 mm. First layer flow 140%, first layer width 150% and it sticks to standard pei with no fancy tricks
Came upon your channel while researching this particular printer and I have to say I absolutely love you. You remind me of the guys I used to watch on tv as a kid
A friend was asking me about printers. I always have people look at your video's FIRST. Thanks for ALL of your HELP!
I like your clear and precise way of explaining... Thank you and Best regards from Germany
I just got the S1 Pro and it truly is an amazing machine!
10 days ago i bought one and cant Wait to get IT!
Love the video, I bought the Ender 3 S1 and just ordered an all metal hot end and nozzle upgrade for $26 USD or $42 CAD still a great deal. I can handle the firmware upgrade myself. If I’ve been able to order the pro though I would’ve ordered the pro instead
Very bold words to put it on a class the same as the prusa you’ve said yourself that when you just want a print to work you build it on your prusa we will see if you actually stick to the ender the prusa is often Imitated never duplicated there is a reason they are 5 weeks out on shipping I hope you’re right and this thing holds up time will tell great work as always!!
I got that printer yesterday (very first 3D printer) and I only have PETG filament (actually read it was fairly easy to print and a bit more durable than the PLA) . The models came off without any force at all. One literally fell off when turning the bed to the side, no material left sticking. I didn't put anything on the surface. So you may use PETG on the original bed without problem.
Excellent RUclips video!
I purchased the Ender 3 S 1 pro about a month ago and I am loving it!
I have not tried printing with any other filament other than PLA but I am looking forward to trying them !
Blue painters tape just rocks and is an excellent weapon in any toolbox. I seriously recommend folks have this on hand.. It works great on the bed for materials your having difficulty with and it works great in post processing to mask parts while painting. It's also much stronger than regular masking tape. But the best feature is that while it sticks really good, it can be removed really easily. Always keep some at hand..
Personally I find product such as gluestick, while does (maybe) give a little adhesion, in reality what they are good for is as a release agent - ie. It forms a barrier between the print and the bed, so when the print bed cools for the most part the print comes right off without ripping chunks from the bed (especially glass). I feel that products on bed should be viewed more as a release than a glue..
It would have been nice to see the crystals being printed, but I guess I'll have to check out the file..
The vacuum bags are great though the valve does eventually fail on you, but that's no problem as the bags are not ultra expensive. I do find though that the spool gets bent out of shape though being compressed by the bag - I'm thinking about printing some kind of support for the spool - I don't know if it will help.
I also have issues with the dry box spindles not allowing smoth movement of the spool. Maybe I'll look into just why this is happening and if there is a fix. It may even be the tired spools themselves.
Anyway good video and thank you Dr vax.. 😊
It is interesting to find someone using it in 2022 - it's a real throwback to the days when everyone was experimenting. Check out RUclips videos from 2010-2017. Painter's tape. ABS juice. Mirrors from IKEA. (Which, incidentally, is what I use on my X2 - just clip one to the bed, use glue stick, works for most things.) The mirror sheets would actually make a good substrate should I choose to try those PEI film stickers - no need to apply it to the built-in bed, apply it to a mirror instead, and it's instantly removable. I suppose I could put blue tape (or plastic tape, if I wanted to print polypropylene) on one if I needed to also. And you get a pack of four for six bucks.
@@iskandartaib I swear by blur tape for some jobs.. for instance, I seem to get a lot of trouble with asa - blue tape to the rescue..
And when painting, rather than mark the piece with tape, the blue stuff comes right off.
Sometimes the old ways are the best ways
Awesome & valuable review. The Ender 3S1 seems to be a great deal for commercial grade type products for functional applications. I have been looking for an robust printer for exotic materials & this seems to be the best value to fit the bill. Thanks!
Nice video, thanks for sharing! Something that has worked well for me on nylonX bed adhesion is aquanet hairspray on glass. Has been my go-to for many years.
Great information Irv. I'm totally new to 3d printing, but your videos are a great learning tool.
thanks for the very informative video 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I'm sure this has been tried, but I'd put some desiccant bags in the printer dryer (in each of the corners --drilling out a good sized hole in each). And when not in use, I'd try to find a way to seal it up (a gasket all around and some tape over the filament hole) and attach a vacuum pump up to it. If you had a pressure sensor inside the dryer (connected to an Arduino or Raspberry), you could keep turn on the pump when the vacuum started to drop.
Thanks for this informative video Irv, looking forward to the strenght tests!
Sr im from Mexico and i was looking for some test on the carbon fiber reinforced filament, thank god i found you jajaja such a nice information, thank you sr, subscribed inmediately
Your video makes me happy that I purchased, and have a new Ender 3 S1 Pro under my desk, just waiting to assemble it! Thanks for this great review!
Спасибо за интересный рассказ Друг мой! Вчера купил S1 pro и жду когда его доставят. Спасибо что подтвердил мое понимание в отношении использования инженерных материалов на этом принтере! Удачи!!!
Excellent video, expecting my Ender 3 S1 Pro in a couple of day, can't wait
It looks good for Book 3 on 3D Printing they make good scanners too!
For the hardened steel nozzle, size ranges between .4 to 1.0mm which size did you select and thanks for terrific information.
Two things: Could you share a link for the three wrenches you mentioned (torque wrench for the Ruby nozzle, the metal heating element wrench, and the robo grip from Rigid ). Also, would you do a video about bed leveling on the Ender 3 S1 Pro? I have seen your other videos on leveling, but it seems that it is a bit different on the Pro. Thanks.
Great video as usual. After starting out using painters tape, I'd rather not go back unless I have to. I print on a PRUSA at work and have printed some Taulman bridge with limited success. I now have a garalite clad spring steel bed for my next attempt but l might give the painters tape another try if it does not work.
Check the temp on E3 S1/Pro Y motor during printing. It gets VERY hot
Very professional videos thank you very much for your time and consideration and passionate adatude with sharing knowledge 🏆😍😎😊
Found you again by searching for Dr. Vax. Great vids as always.
I’m using the sprite pro kit on my e3v2, 422 board, Jyers modified to give a 60 second 9 position BL touch probing ( CR touch on another printer) and 230x230 Ned area, 300c hotend.
I’m loving how well it’s printing! But you brought up an interesting point about replacement nozzles. How does one verify the new nozzle is flush tight against the all metal tube when replacing a nozzle? I’m assuming if the nozzle barrel length is identical to the original it’s ok once tightened? Or are there a few extra threads on the nozzle length to snug it up?
So far I’ve only printed pla and Petg for a short time so I haven’t explored changing or substituting a new type nozzle. Maybe a follow up video on sprite pro nozzle changing?
Thanks.
I have had no problems with the Micro Swiss nozzles made specifically for the Ender 3. I would stay away from low cost generic nozzles.
@@MakeWithTech Does this new printer use a new kind of nozzle, or does it use the standard Mark 8 nozzle a standard Ender 3 uses? The nose looks different.
Thanks! I am looking a investing in an S1 pro currently, it will be my first printer, I am a total newbie. Everything made sense, and was very helpful. Did you have your s1 in any type of enclosure for the Nylon or Nylon-X? Wondering how much value is added with a soft enclosure, seems like a filament dryer is more important, though I am in Denver, so may not be an issue here. Thanks again!
Thank you for all the great videos! As someone that's recently reviewed both the Ender 3 S1 Pro and the Super Racer, which would you suggest for someone who wants to use mostly PETG, doesn't care about speed and primarily wants quality and ease of use? (I wish both had larger print areas, but I'll just have to get over that.). By ease of use, I'm referring to the tuning and other efforts to get the best results (for instance the SR appears to have a very easy E-Step calibration routine). ...Maybe a head-to-head comparison video would be popular? :) Thanks again.
If you're printing MAINLY PETG and not interested in nylons or PC, want something bigger, and am not concerned about speed, I'd consider the Artillery Sidewinder X2. There are similar printers from other manufacturers as well - Two Trees makes the Bluer Plus, Creality makes several versions of the CR-10. Most of these use Bowden tubes, however, the X2 is direct drive. And rather than the Ender 3 S1 Pro I'd consider the regular Ender 3 S1, if you want to go that route.
The quality on the S1 is better.
Prusa MK3s. Or if you want it more custom Voron 2.4 LDO kit.
@@Todestelzer IF you like construction projects that cost a lot of money, I suppose that's true..
@@iskandartaib hmm. I started with a Anycubic too. But if someone ask me what printer he should buy these 2 would be my suggestion. The Prusa will print without the need of tuning or modding it and the Voron is a mod and tuning monster. There is a new printer coming soon but still on kickstarter for now.
Were you ever able to make the video looking at the breaking stress for each of the different materials? I would love to see that but I couldn't find it on your channel. Thanks!
About three years ago I compared pla and petg.
@@MakeWithTech In this video you printed nylon and carbon fiber nylon...those are the two I was hoping to see. I will go find the other one. Thanks.
Great video Irve , as usual 👍👍👍
Hi great video, just recieved the s1pro do you just use the ender 3 printer profile for cura and import the s1pro profile from the SD card, thanks
Try garotite at Mc MasterCarr. You can buy it by the different size sheets in different thicknesses and cut it to fit!
High quality review. I subscribed.
Have you tried using Kapton Tape for use with the likes of Nylon-X prints? I have seen this being used with more industrial-grade printers.
Hey, great Video. Is the stress Meter test still coming?
Well done , thanks for sharing .
What about continuous strand CF? Most of what is available is chopped strand CF, but I’d love to print continuous strand for more strength/weight.
Thank you. I learned a lot. Gilles
Really, really informative. Thank you.
Thanks for the very extensive review! Did you use an enclosure for printing nylon?
Update on cost of Prusa with extra spool of PETG: $839 for kit, $28.49 for PETG, DHL shipping $79.94, and $43.89 import duty.
I'd love to see the materials strength test.
Love your videos my friend. Can you tell me what nozzles does this use
Thank you for the video!
This is a perfect example of an engineers desk.
I am finally decided to replace my 3D printer and I am purchasing
Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro so my question is, can I use my software from Prusa that I’ve been working with all these years?
If your answer is yes, I cannot see the printer on their list of printers, so which printer should I choose? That makes the slicer work thank you very much Eli
You need to use a custom
I stopped the video when you said cura. I also have 2 enders and i'm completely aware and i know why it's bad. For most users the preassembled prusa makes absolutely more sense.
another great video - thanks
What do you mean by a liberal amount? I’m not sure I understand if it’s a lot or just a bit
So did you figure out why prints weren't sticking to the bed after the nozzle upgrade or are you forever using painters tape?
I’m sorry still very new to all of this, can you please explain the difference between a SCAD and a CAD file..
Have you done the stress test yet? Very interested in seeing the results. Thanks.
so if i change the extruder and use 3m tapes it's cheaper than s1 pro to use the regular s1
I have the same printer, the only difference is I haven't been able to print with it. not sure if I am doing something wrong or what. I have tried to get help from creality but no help from them. could you do a video of how to set the temperature choosing your print and then how to start the print, so I have some way of telling if something is wrong with my printer or if it's just me?
Thanks
why the tape? the PEI is a superb surface
I did want the nylon to stick too well and damage the plate.
@@MakeWithTech I've never had an issue with nylon adhering too well on my PEI
I love mine. I had to adjust it a little bit but very satisfied for the price.
Hello , just started following you , love the videos, having trouble with following your steps for 3 line count to mimic vase mode with line width of 1.2 , no top layers, and 0 infill , with vase mode I get a time of 3 hrs and with your steps I get a time of 13 hrs, not sure what I'm missing
Would printing onto paper & then dissolving the paper work?
I really wanted to buy the "Ender 3 S1 Pro" its on sale for 399.00 on Amazon. BUT , I wasted 1 yr learning to draw solids with Fusion 360 and was transitioning to CAM ( I am a CNC Machinist ) when they pulled the plug. I was really pissed because I was about to purchase a CNC Router for Hobby playing. Now I want a 3d printer and still no CAD that is affordable so its time to give up on those dreams. Since 360 is cloud based, they could determine who was abusing it and cut them off, NOT ME !!!!!!!!
Do you need some models made?
Thank you.
Did you find anychance to test ASA without enclosure?
Hey whats the printing temp. for nylon CF, i am using the same machine but even 220 is too much for it. I am doing something wrong
Hi Irv, I had exactly the same problem as you found with EIBOS single roll filament dryer box feeding filament direct into a FLSUN SR. Caused the extruder to skip steps. So I too use the EIBOS to dry filaments and then place them into SUNLU filament dryer box ( which are NOT very good at drying filament ) to feed the filament direct into the printer. The SUNLU roller bearing work much better. Refering to Chess Knight's query re printing PETG, I have had a lot of trouble with my FLSUN SR printing PETG - model letting go of the bed after a couple of layers - tried glass, PEI, Glues. Will go back to the old painter's tape.
Your great videos really helped me get this hobby going for me. I bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro and loving it. However, i have a question you may be able to answer. My Ender print bed is 220x220mm, but the file i need to print is a tiny bit larger than 220 mm. I tried setting the printer to 235x235 in Cura, but whatever i try, the printer refuses to print larger than 220. I suspect i need to edit some G code to make this possible? Can you point me in the right direction?
This is a firmware limitation. You probably cannot easily override it. It is designed to protect the machine.
@@MakeWithTech Maybe with Klipper fw? Thanks for your reply!
just print the part on a 45degree angle on the bed
@@timothyhackett7372 Yes, i thought about doing that.. good tip!
@@koosy2987 just make sure when you do that you modify your external infill angles and support angles 45° as well otherwise you may run into support problems and infill problems.. I use simplify 3d for my s1 pro and I had to do that for a recent print
Irv Which Printer would you suggest for a Person who has been 2D Printing for about 2-3 months and wants a Printer that Prints and doesn't need all the work to keep the printer printing. I have an Anycubic Vyper and i'm having a lot of problems with.
No we can’t see the nozzle in your hand?
Hello Sir, would you install the Ender sprite pro on an Ender Max that his driven by skr mini e3 v3 and tft35 e3 v3 ?
Ho does it behave if you're printing nylon with some height to it, e.g. a 3 inch cube, say.
תודה וגמר חתימה טובה
What level of fumes did you experience with the nylon?
Thanks for the great review. This was helpful in deciding to purchase the printer. My original Ender 3 is still going strong but with the cost of all the upgrades I want to do to it, it makes more sense to get this instead. Thanks!
They need to make a Pro Plus...
Whoa, something's up with youtube. My comment disappeared...
I was basically recommending eSun PA-CF. Had amazing results with it. and it's priced far friendlier.
youtube has been wonky for a while now, they auto delete a lot of ppls comments that arent even bad stuff, it happens to me too and i see other people saying the same thing, its unfortunate
Irv do you do any paid phone calls to help with an Ender 3 pro?
Are they still using Marlin firmware?
7:11 assembling a 3D printer should be hard work for all but print farm operators. The work of assembly is how you learn the printer.
Laughing 😅If you think assembling a prussa takes too long, I made my first one from scratch including my own circuit board design. Disclaimer- I eventually switched to commercial ones when the quality improved. But my one did work! 12 years later, my CR6 Max even used the same microcontroller I used in a smaller pinout. The E3 S1 Pro is great. I've diverged off printing my own designs for a couple of weeks to print some other people's articulated animal designs.
Um...your math is a little off $379 to $499 is $120 difference; not $80. Even with your on-screen correction for the S1 @ $399; that's still $100 difference, not $80.
Very interesting. I use a printer with direct drive and an E3D all metal hotend with a hardened coated nozzle. I print engineering not decorative parts, so always interested in videos like this.
Never tried nylon because of the reported moisture problems which sound like hard work to control, but may do so now.
However, have you ever tried polycarbonate with or without carbon fibre as an engineering material? It needs high temp, up to around 300/100C (which my printer will do) but has the reputation of being very strong (similar to nylon, possibly less flexible) but from materials websites should have less of a moisture issue.
I have tried Priline PC+CF which is good to print with, but seems to ooze a lot. However it is obviously not pure PC because it prints at around 230 to 240C so it must be a blend - they do not say of what.
Would be very interested in a video comparing nylon and polycarbonate.
Excellent video. Thank you. The ONLY PROBLEM IS that you speak to people with easy access to the stuff and stores you mentioned AND NOT to people that have difficulty getting stuff from even AMAZON. Please wake up and realise that America IS NOT THE ONLY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD but IS ONE OF THE FEW STILL STUCK in the imperial system of measuring stuff.
Gave your video a share on my Facebook page for a shoutout hope it gets you some fallows and interest into learning with desktop technologies 😍😎 😁 🤩 I really Injoy your videos .... 💗🇨🇦 Cheers 😊
$499-$379 isn't $80....is that the new math? LOL
Yep. Sometimes my mouth gets ahead of my head. That said the prices are always changing. Right not the S1 pro is $479 on the Creality site. So it is getting closer.
I bought the Ender 3 S1 pro for 368 Euros at 9 year party
The only thing i learnt was the size of my wallet about to get smaller with the add-ons needed to print what i need but might be worth it
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Stopped watching when he could not do even basic math...
its dollars, not dallars
The way you speak is weird and if you're using painters tape, Ur bad at getting good adhesion
Check McAlister-Carr for garalite I bought a sheet and cut 2 plates for my printers.