Your videos totally sold me on revisiting my old lenses I’ve had sitting on a shelf, languishing on display for over 25 years. Like you, I’ve researched the history and lens elements and groups and along the way I’ve learned why some types such as Tessar or Double Gauss only achieve 2.8 or 3.5. I find these technical details fascinating as they shed so much light into human ingenuity. I’ve managed to source out most of these lenses, and if you are persistent, even the expensive ones can be found for a comparative bargain. Still waiting on delivery for the latest.. shipping durations can be extended and somewhat painful under COVID conditions. :( I’m eager to play around with them. Your videos always have a great balance of history, technical (when it affects image quality), reasoning and experience. I’ve watched these videos many times, picking up other subtleties. Great stuff, looking forward to additional segments.
the part about the blue skies is accurate! very film like on all my cameras-the Meyer Optik lenses colors are such a way where, if the colors in the scene are there, they will slightly mute and distort the colors but in a very beautiful way. makes the images very vintage feeling.
My domiplan was gifted to me by a lady. The lens was modified with a ring so filters could be fitted. The apature is broken even if I hit the lens and it seems holding the pin down doesn't work. I'm still going to use it on my Sony a7 though. I've been trying it out on my A200 and Rebel XT and its been great quality.
The Oreston looks so similar physically to the Pancolar. Is the Pancolar also a Planar design? How do they compare? I kind of like the angular hexagonal bokeh balls. Nice photos. Have you thought of pushing down the aperture pin and keep it down with a piece of gaffer tape? So you won’t have to push down the button. Or maybe you can remove the mount and put gaffer tape over the hole for the pin from the inner side. After all you did something similar with the Domiplan.
The Pancolar has a 6 elements in 5 groups design rather than the Oreston's 6/4, but I'm not sure about the design heritage (maybe someone else will know). Overall, I prefer the Pancolar, but then I have the 8 bladed thorium radio-active version, and it's a really good performer. Although I complain about the stop down button's placement on the Oreston, I do like having the option of having the lens wide open and bright for focussing, and then being able pushing the button down to take stopped-down photos. (Or easily take one snap wide open and one stopped down). So no super-gluing needed.
I shoot with the Oreston on my Canon R5. I have a Canon EF adapter with AF Confirm. It actually depresses the pin on the back of the 50mm f1.8 Oreston. So the aperture goes full manual mode. I also have another dummy adapter that is shaped differently and it doesn't depress the auto pin.
God, I love your videos, such fantastic presentation. I, unfortunately, don't have any of these 50s (though would love to try some someday), but I do have a Meyer-Optik Orestor 100mm 2.8 which I assume maybe makes images similar to the Oreston you talk about here (going by the name alone). I love that lens!
Great video. Thank you. I wonder what your favorite bubble bokeh lens is? I know it is a longer FL, but the Trioplan 100/2.8 looks nice. The vintage versions seem to approach the price of the new versions. No charm of the vintage lens but no fungus either. Not sure what you think of the new “vintage” models.
My favorite bubble lens is a tough question - perhaps I should do a video on it! Generally, the triplet designs give good bubbles, and even the lowly (and rather derided) Meyer Optik Gorlitz Domiplan is fun. The Takumar 55mm f1.8s produce lovely clean round bokeh balls wide open. For big bubbles, the fast 85s (like a Helios 40) or a fast 135mm are good. I've not tried the new "vintage" lenses.
Hi Simon, congrats to your videos. I have watched all of them and they really inspired me. I bought a Primotar 50 3.5 after seeing your images and I love the lens. But I don‘t get those round bubbles in the Bokeh shooting wide open. I only get those hexagon „bubbles“. My lens has 6 blades. Any recommendation? Thanks & regards from Germany, Michael
Hi, thanks for your kind words. It sounds the aperture blades are not opening fully. There should be a ring (or dial) towards the front of the lens with two dots on it. Try rotating this ring to the left or right - and then the see if you can get the blades are fully open. I talk about this from 15:30 on the video. Good luck!
I too love this lens ... subtle, fabulous bokeh and, overall, a really balanced rendition. A real sleeper among the fast fifties (i own perhaps 30 and I ultimately acquired this one as an afterthought ,,,).
i have the small 'slim" version and its my favorite lens to operate and carry, the build construction is excellent. and the images-wow. vintage among vintage lenses! the bokeh is outstanding
I love, and am partial to the Meyer Optik lenses, and for the price, have gotten surprising results, especially with the Oreston! It’s long focusing throw is pretty impressive.
I have the Oreston and Domiplan. Domiplan is well, a Domiplan. Quirky but somewhat interesting. The Oreston however is insane. I was lucky to get a good copy, and it is as sharp stopped down as my modern digital glass. Oreston is a beast of a lens IMO.
Domiplan has another nice feature - lens is very easy to repair, which is great for practicing disassembling, cleaning, assembling... Also, Trioplan 50 can be found very affordable in Altix mount (very easy to adapt to M42 adapter without losing infinity)
An amazing compendium of knowledge on display here, Simon. Thank you! I am especially interested in the way you differentiate between lenses which can stand up to post processing and those that do not do as well in post. On another note, I always hear that the Oreston is identical to the Pentacon Prakticar 50mm f1.8, and yet the Prakticar gets hardly any love.
I have to brag a bit, Got my Trioplan 50mm on a yard sale for 10€. No fungus, just needed replaced grease. They are a pain to align back up, but once I finally build a Altix adapter will be able to fully brag :D
Great information. I just purchased the Pentacon version of the Meyer-Optik Görlitz 50mm f1.8 and mine has a slide switch for the manual/automatic selection. Sliding the switch retracts the pin back so it looks just like your super glue version. Lovely lens and your description of its qualities are spot on.
You made a mistake at around the two minute mark. You decided to just say "Meyer" instead of "Meyer-Optik Görlitz". I bought the 50mm F1.8 and every time I use it, I hear your voice in my head saying "Meyer-Optik Görlitz" over and over. With an emphasis on the "Görlitz" part. So when I saw this video drop. I was excited to hear you say it over and over. Unsubscribed ;)
Simon very clearly stated he was going to call the brand Meyer for short - perfectly acceptable for any commercial product. The fact that he triggered you is something for you to work on.
Hi sir your videos are wonderful and I enjoy them very much, I have an auto revuenon 55mm 1,7 lens with a 42 mount; i bought it for a cheap price but I couldn’t find any information about it online, i would be happy if you can tell me anything about it. Thanks alot
@@Simonsutak thanks a lot sir, I haven't tried it yet on my sony A7 since I don't have an E mount m42 adapter yet, it's still being delivered. but overall it has a solid feel to it, and it's in a pretty neat condition too, I also managed to get my hands on an Asahi Pentax 50mm 1.4, which is just extremely wonderful, I don't know if all the versions are like this, but mine is really sharp at 1.4 and has some beautiful colors, it's impressive really! anyway sir thanks a lot for this wonderful channel, your content helped me a lot getting into vintage lenses since I cant afford sony lenses hahhaha! thanks a lot
Regarding stopping down the lenses with the pin when used on cheap adapters, either you do what you did with the pin, OR; you buy a quality adapter like K&F Koncept for roughly twice or three times the money of the cheap Fotga or something, and the problem is solved. They still cost like $15-$25 USD so it's not like you have to pay a prince's ransom.
I think that the comments made by other users regarding the quality of the Domiplan's construction are fair, my latest copy of this lens has the stop down ring jammed at f5.6, which means it's restricted from wide open to 5.6. This doesn't really bother me, as I mainly shoot it wide open, or one stop down anyway, but it's the third copy I've had which has has major construction problems. Great series, by the way. Most enjoyable and top quality research.
Some m42 adaptors have the ridge for the aperture ring, some don´t. (K&F have) I've got two later Pentacons, they both have the aperture pin, and work without glue :) The latest Pentacon have somewhat rounded aperture blades, and better coating in my view. (Multi coating) Thank´s for the video great content !
An outstanding video. I don't own any vintage lenses from this manufacturer but I could not have hoped for a clearer analysis and synthesis if I ever do. Thank you.
the Oreston is the perfect compromise between artistic and realistic vision. i own the early zebra version. for me Oreston has been my go to standard for a vintage fast 50mm. good but neutral colors, smooth but still interesting bokeh, close MFD and ease of use keeps this lens on my canon 5D often. w
Yes, a fine lens. Infact one the first lenses I recommend to people starting out on M42 lenses. The Helios 44-2 being another, for different reasons. Your description of the Oreston's qualities is perfect!
Fantastic video, yet again. You mentioned something about a trick to get the aperture blades all hidden, so you get all round bokeh bubbles on the Primotar 50mm f/3.5, unfortunately I didn't quite get it. Any chance you'd explain it to me, as I recently bought a Primotar 50mm f/3.5 which is due to arrive tomorrow. Thanks in advance, and best regards, Robert
Hi, many thanks for your kind words. At the front of lens there’s a small ring with a small dot. At first I didn’t realise that it rotated at all, but this needs to be turned to the correct position for the lens to be fully wide open. We’re on holiday right now and I don’t have the lens with me, and I can’t remember which way the ring needs to be turned! Anyway, how you enjoy your ‘new’ lens! Regards, Simon
Thanks ever so much, Simon. I can't wait for the lens to arrive. Most of the lenses I have bought were "informed decisions" based on your videos. Could you see yourself reviewing the Nikon E Series lenses? I have the 50mm f/1.8 and the 28mm f/2.8. Both amazing lenses. Not too expensive. Enjoy your time and I'll give you a shout how the Primotar works.
Yes, the price of that lens...but some of the lenses I've seen on-line have been on sale for a long time, so people must agree the prices are too crazy.
Ha! I just went thru my mountain of un-looked at gear and found an Exacta RTL 1000 with the exact Oreston attached. I bought it at an estate sale and forgot about it. The bag has a 300mm Komura...with 18 blades, not sure if the mount is the same. A light meter, filters, flash gear...and all the paperwork. I'll have to see if there is an adapter to my Sony A7 online. I guess I can stop looking for a bubble bokeh lens, now.
I picked up a Domiplan quite recently needing 'minor repair'. Turned out the aperture mechanism was broken - it's really fragile with very thin gauge metal pivots pressed on to other metal parts which had come apart over time. It was impossible to fix but it was such a cheap lens that it didn't really matter. It's most useful to me wide open anyway - not keen on the hexagonal bokeh it would produce if it could be stopped down and I really only bought the Domiplan for it's bubble bokeh. I love the images it produces :-) You might like to note that you can access the aperture mechanism (other than the blades themselves) without disturbing the rear element. The ring at the rear of the body unscrews and gives access to remove the mount.
Many thanks. That's good to know about accessing the rear of the lens. So the screws I mentioned are holding the glass element itself - a different part of the lens. I just decided it was easier to super-glue down the pin, as the aperture mechanism not working correctly anyway, and the lens was really cheap!
@@Simonsutak Yes - apparently those screws align the rear element. I'm not going to mess with those as my Domiplan is much better than expected wide open (where it's most interesting) so I guess the rear glass is where it should be :-). It's a shame that I can't use it stopped down - it's always interesting to me what a simple lens like this could be capable of - but I never expected to be using it for landscapes so I'm pretty happy with it as is!
I have a lens called Pentaflex Auto Color and it looks identical to Oreston 50 mm 1.8.It's the same lens? I guess this is a export rebranded Meyer Oreston 50mm F1,8
This was so instructive Simon, it was very interesting you talking about the design of lenses etc, I have a few old cameras (Rollieflex f3.5, Minolta Autocord, Olympus OM4, OM1, Soligor TM & a Nikon D7000) and lenses (not many only 50mm Nikon 1.4 & Olympus 1.4) I would love to use the Olympus lens on a digital camera in the future but does not fit on my Nikon camera. Have you ever used Angenieux cine lenses converted for digital cameras I have a couple and don't know what to do with them?
I absolutely love your channel (mind you, I don't subscribe easily and do so for various reasons) and having no channel of my own, I realise my opinion therefore may be disqualified immediately, but may I suggest a slightly slower narration - a pace that reflects the past? While i was typing this, I realised the narration may very well be a major factor behind why David Thorpe's channel on Micro Four Thirds is my favourite channel.
Great video as usual. Answers quite a few questions I asked meself. Domiplan is cheap, in term of build quality. I have exacta mount version and there is a lot of plastic inside. As you said aperture build quality is a a problem and mine is broken. So I shoot it only wide open. Not a problem as I bought it for it. A long minimal focus distance is more of the problem as it limits composition choices. I have Pentacon Practicar MC 1.8. Not sure is it the same lens as Oreston, looks similar to me. It has bit shorter minimal distance (.45). I like it very much. It manage flare quite well and colours are rich out of camera (then again I tend to shoot in Vivid preset with my Nikon DSLR). Looks like Exacta and Practica mount tent to be bit cheaper that M42s. For Exacta mount there is really cheap addapter ring to M42 but it may be clumsy and not practical if you own few exacta lenses. (Except if we buy one for each lens in which case it is better to buy M42 in the first place). For mirrorless (like Sony Alfas) a quality and easy to use adaptor exists. I own few other MOG and Pentacons in less attractive focus lengths like 29mm and 135mm. (I kind have soft spot for 135mm. )
I bought a Domiplan for it's bubble bokeh and all I can say positively about the lens is the pin at the back when pressed operates the iris properly. It is reasonable about f8 but pretty dire at larger apertures, there is a fair amount of dust in it but probably no worse than any other lens of the same age. I do wonder if it's a Friday afternoon job or if it's been dropped from a height or both! looking at your images taken with one you seem to have a far better one than mine. Maybe someone has opened the back of mine and messed up the optics?
If you can block the auto pin in the back of the oreston you dont have to use the stop-down button, I have it adapted to m4/3 and it's constantly pressed, so the aperture is just always stopped down to whatever its set (although I much prefer it wide open)
Hi, for the Primotar E, I simply unscrewed the rear element, using a lens wrench spanner in the notches, and didn't touch the little screws. After cleaning the glass, I screwed it back, and it all seems to have stayed aligned. And the front is even easier - you can just unscrewed the front name plate, without a spanner etc. Good luck!
I think SImon read about this warning concerning the possible loss of alignment in some forums. Scary, isn't it? In my personal and direct opinion all the people (there are many) who wrote not to touch the three small screws in order to avoid the divine wrath, never tried to check what is the construction of this lens. If the designers of this lens really decided for this method in order to align correctly the axis of the rear lens, they were some the dumbest engineers and probably were fired after releasing this project. Not only the factory had to machine the rear lens precisely, but, as true masochists, they also had to loose a lot of time to assemble the lens correctly on a very special machine to guarantee the alignment. That is what is called "Mass production", meaning that you should first visit the house of the Holy and receive His blessing before you can succesfully produce one lens. Expensive and time consuming. I wonder how the design of all the other lenses managed to avoid this procedure. Hmmmm: devil's pact? If you want to clean the fungus, you may want to consider a leap of faith...
On the Domiplan, you can easily reach the pin to block it, without touching the lens configuration/alignment at all. Just unscrew the rear ring, then unscrew the three tiny screws that are then exposed (attaching the mount part to the focus ring assembly). You now have access to the pin and the lever that translates the vertical pin motion into horizontal aperture action. Then you can either block the pin or the lever with tape or plastic.
A great video, Simon. I don't know why I didn't see this when you first published it. The Oreston or Pentacon 50mm 1.8 is an excellent lens. The Domiplan, however, is a dog IMO. (I thought I could've written the negative review of it you showed in the video.) It's the only lens I've ever thrown away. I didn't want to pass it on to someone else, and it was painful to keep in my collection. Perhaps it was a flaw in my particular lens, but it seemed extremely soft at infinity. Do you have any experience with lenses by another somewhat obscure German lens maker, Enna Munchen? I have only one, a 28mm Macro Revuenon f2.8 that I like a lot. Thanks again for your hard work researching and producing these very interesting and informative videos. There are so many good old lenses!
Many thanks for you kind words here and elsewhere. My Domiplan is OK, but the aperture blades are very sticky. Guess I was lucky with the optics (if not mechanics) of my copy. No, I've never used an Enna Munchen lens, but your question has got me searching around ebay!!! I've had my eye on a Steinheil Munchen Quinon 55mm f1.9 M42 for years...maybe one day. As you write, there are so many good old lenses!
outstanding video, my good friend is suggesting me to purchase a germen lens i believe you mentioned for bubble bokeh. will these lenses work with canon 5d2 or caonon r?
Hi, I don't use Canon cameras any more, so can't say for certain. But most of the issues (with infinity focus/the rear element hitting the mirror), with using M42 lenses with DSLRs (not mirrorless cameras) seem to be with Nikon's, and only with certain, but not all lenses. You should be OK, but best check with a Canon user for the lens you're thinking of getting.
Hi, I have the Oreston 1.8 but instead of round bokeh it creates triangle bokeh which isn't so beautiful. Any idea if this is an older or newer version of that Oreston?
I've never seen this triangle bokeh before on an Oreston. Does you copy only have three blades? Wide open it should be round whatever the design/version. I wonder whether some of the blades come loose from their holes/fixings?
@@Simonsutak Thanks for your answer. I think it has only three blades, it's certainly not that blades came loose. The lens is very sharp and wide open there is no problem. But closed down there is this triangle bokeh. I discovered a few posts on the internet now about these lenses, it is not that exceptional apparently.
Good question. The wide open bokeh of the Tessar is nice and smooth, and the lens sharpens up well stopped down. But would I prefer the Oreston to the Tessar? Yes, probably, because it's faster and the rendering has more character. However, the Tessar is still a very good lens for its age. It's especially good for macro work, with extension tubes.
Even supposing you are referring to the Carl Zeiss Jena lens and not the generic construction with 4 lens in 3 groups, with how many blades: 14, 12, 8 or 5?
Good lord, your videos want to make me go on a shopping spree.
Your videos totally sold me on revisiting my old lenses I’ve had sitting on a shelf, languishing on display for over 25 years. Like you, I’ve researched the history and lens elements and groups and along the way I’ve learned why some types such as Tessar or Double Gauss only achieve 2.8 or 3.5. I find these technical details fascinating as they shed so much light into human ingenuity. I’ve managed to source out most of these lenses, and if you are persistent, even the expensive ones can be found for a comparative bargain. Still waiting on delivery for the latest.. shipping durations can be extended and somewhat painful under COVID conditions. :( I’m eager to play around with them. Your videos always have a great balance of history, technical (when it affects image quality), reasoning and experience. I’ve watched these videos many times, picking up other subtleties. Great stuff, looking forward to additional segments.
the part about the blue skies is accurate! very film like on all my cameras-the Meyer Optik lenses colors are such a way where, if the colors in the scene are there, they will slightly mute and distort the colors but in a very beautiful way. makes the images very vintage feeling.
Prices just jumped 30%
My domiplan was gifted to me by a lady. The lens was modified with a ring so filters could be fitted. The apature is broken even if I hit the lens and it seems holding the pin down doesn't work. I'm still going to use it on my Sony a7 though. I've been trying it out on my A200 and Rebel XT and its been great quality.
The Oreston looks so similar physically to the Pancolar. Is the Pancolar also a Planar design? How do they compare? I kind of like the angular hexagonal bokeh balls. Nice photos. Have you thought of pushing down the aperture pin and keep it down with a piece of gaffer tape? So you won’t have to push down the button. Or maybe you can remove the mount and put gaffer tape over the hole for the pin from the inner side. After all you did something similar with the Domiplan.
The Pancolar has a 6 elements in 5 groups design rather than the Oreston's 6/4, but I'm not sure about the design heritage (maybe someone else will know). Overall, I prefer the Pancolar, but then I have the 8 bladed thorium radio-active version, and it's a really good performer.
Although I complain about the stop down button's placement on the Oreston, I do like having the option of having the lens wide open and bright for focussing, and then being able pushing the button down to take stopped-down photos. (Or easily take one snap wide open and one stopped down). So no super-gluing needed.
the pancolar is based on the biotar as far as i know
I shoot with the Oreston on my Canon R5. I have a Canon EF adapter with AF Confirm. It actually depresses the pin on the back of the 50mm f1.8 Oreston. So the aperture goes full manual mode. I also have another dummy adapter that is shaped differently and it doesn't depress the auto pin.
God, I love your videos, such fantastic presentation.
I, unfortunately, don't have any of these 50s (though would love to try some someday), but I do have a Meyer-Optik Orestor 100mm 2.8 which I assume maybe makes images similar to the Oreston you talk about here (going by the name alone). I love that lens!
Can you please do a video covering vintage wides and ultrawides? Great video as always!
Yes, its in my 'plans'.
Great video. Thank you. I wonder what your favorite bubble bokeh lens is? I know it is a longer FL, but the Trioplan 100/2.8 looks nice. The vintage versions seem to approach the price of the new versions. No charm of the vintage lens but no fungus either. Not sure what you think of the new “vintage” models.
My favorite bubble lens is a tough question - perhaps I should do a video on it! Generally, the triplet designs give good bubbles, and even the lowly (and rather derided) Meyer Optik Gorlitz Domiplan is fun. The Takumar 55mm f1.8s produce lovely clean round bokeh balls wide open. For big bubbles, the fast 85s (like a Helios 40) or a fast 135mm are good.
I've not tried the new "vintage" lenses.
Thank you for your thoughts. I’d love a video on bubble bokeh lens shoot out!
Hi Simon, congrats to your videos. I have watched all of them and they really inspired me. I bought a Primotar 50 3.5 after seeing your images and I love the lens. But I don‘t get those round bubbles in the Bokeh shooting wide open. I only get those hexagon „bubbles“. My lens has 6 blades. Any recommendation? Thanks & regards from Germany, Michael
Hi, thanks for your kind words. It sounds the aperture blades are not opening fully. There should be a ring (or dial) towards the front of the lens with two dots on it. Try rotating this ring to the left or right - and then the see if you can get the blades are fully open. I talk about this from 15:30 on the video. Good luck!
@@Simonsutak Got it - Thank you Simon!!
I have a Primoplan 58mm and it might just be my favourite vintage lens of all time. The swirly bokeh is just wild and it's built beautifully.
Great tip. I will try to find out more.
I too love this lens ... subtle, fabulous bokeh and, overall, a really balanced rendition. A real sleeper among the fast fifties (i own perhaps 30 and I ultimately acquired this one as an afterthought ,,,).
i have the small 'slim" version and its my favorite lens to operate and carry, the build construction is excellent. and the images-wow. vintage among vintage lenses! the bokeh is outstanding
I love, and am partial to the Meyer Optik lenses, and for the price, have gotten surprising results, especially with the Oreston! It’s long focusing throw is pretty impressive.
I have the Oreston and Domiplan. Domiplan is well, a Domiplan. Quirky but somewhat interesting. The Oreston however is insane. I was lucky to get a good copy, and it is as sharp stopped down as my modern digital glass. Oreston is a beast of a lens IMO.
Domiplan has another nice feature - lens is very easy to repair, which is great for practicing disassembling, cleaning, assembling... Also, Trioplan 50 can be found very affordable in Altix mount (very easy to adapt to M42 adapter without losing infinity)
The Primoplan is the best lens I ever used. It is my unicorn lens.
An amazing compendium of knowledge on display here, Simon. Thank you! I am especially interested in the way you differentiate between lenses which can stand up to post processing and those that do not do as well in post. On another note, I always hear that the Oreston is identical to the Pentacon Prakticar 50mm f1.8, and yet the Prakticar gets hardly any love.
Hugo Meyer-Optik of Görliz.... Oh man, that cracked me up. Did he have kaleidoscope eyes? Love your videos and images.
I have to brag a bit, Got my Trioplan 50mm on a yard sale for 10€. No fungus, just needed replaced grease. They are a pain to align back up, but once I finally build a Altix adapter will be able to fully brag :D
Excellent video. It's nice to see reviews of the less common 50s.
auto reflecta 55/1.7 cant touch that. 1972 tomioka.. best lens ever had.. it pisses all over my 24/1.4 art
Great information. I just purchased the Pentacon version of the Meyer-Optik Görlitz 50mm f1.8 and mine has a slide switch for the manual/automatic selection. Sliding the switch retracts the pin back so it looks just like your super glue version. Lovely lens and your description of its qualities are spot on.
You made a mistake at around the two minute mark. You decided to just say "Meyer" instead of "Meyer-Optik Görlitz". I bought the 50mm F1.8 and every time I use it, I hear your voice in my head saying "Meyer-Optik Görlitz" over and over. With an emphasis on the "Görlitz" part. So when I saw this video drop. I was excited to hear you say it over and over. Unsubscribed ;)
Simon very clearly stated he was going to call the brand Meyer for short - perfectly acceptable for any commercial product. The fact that he triggered you is something for you to work on.
Ha! Hope I wasn't too irritating, it really should have been My-yer. And I hope you like lens!
Hi sir your videos are wonderful and I enjoy them very much, I have an auto revuenon 55mm 1,7 lens with a 42 mount; i bought it for a cheap price but I couldn’t find any information about it online, i would be happy if you can tell me anything about it. Thanks alot
I think your lens is the same design as an Auto Chinon 55mm f1.7, and there is more information about that lens. It should be a good performer!
@@Simonsutak thanks a lot sir, I haven't tried it yet on my sony A7 since I don't have an E mount m42 adapter yet, it's still being delivered. but overall it has a solid feel to it, and it's in a pretty neat condition too, I also managed to get my hands on an Asahi Pentax 50mm 1.4, which is just extremely wonderful, I don't know if all the versions are like this, but mine is really sharp at 1.4 and has some beautiful colors, it's impressive really! anyway sir thanks a lot for this wonderful channel, your content helped me a lot getting into vintage lenses since I cant afford sony lenses hahhaha! thanks a lot
Just joined your group. A fantastic video, full of great info.. thank you ….
Regarding stopping down the lenses with the pin when used on cheap adapters, either you do what you did with the pin, OR; you buy a quality adapter like K&F Koncept for roughly twice or three times the money of the cheap Fotga or something, and the problem is solved. They still cost like $15-$25 USD so it's not like you have to pay a prince's ransom.
I am missing the best one (in my opinion) in the list though - the Domiron. Love its character. My favorite 50.
Lucky you - so hard to get hold of.
my dream lens! i love the Oreston and the Pancolar f/2 which was apparently similair in optical construction to the Domiron. one can wish
I think that the comments made by other users regarding the quality of the Domiplan's construction are fair, my latest copy of this lens has the stop down ring jammed at f5.6, which means it's restricted from wide open to 5.6. This doesn't really bother me, as I mainly shoot it wide open, or one stop down anyway, but it's the third copy I've had which has has major construction problems.
Great series, by the way. Most enjoyable and top quality research.
Спасибо за обзор! Я из Санкт-Петербурга, Россия !
Мне нравятся Немецкая оптика! 👍👍👍🔥
This is wonderful information presented so meticulously. Fascinating to see such clear examples of these lenses in action. Many thanks.
Some m42 adaptors have the ridge for the aperture ring, some don´t. (K&F have)
I've got two later Pentacons, they both have the aperture pin, and work without glue :)
The latest Pentacon have somewhat rounded aperture blades, and better coating in my view. (Multi coating)
Thank´s for the video great content !
Great content, photo examples, and explanations with histories of the lenses. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for your kind words and encouragement.
I wish a great lens like Lydth 30mm was in this review.
Good idea. I might do a review of the Lydith and Orestegon 29mm some time this year!
@@Simonsutak Thank you Simon.
An outstanding video. I don't own any vintage lenses from this manufacturer but I could not have hoped for a clearer analysis and synthesis if I ever do. Thank you.
the Oreston is the perfect compromise between artistic and realistic vision. i own the early zebra version. for me Oreston has been my go to standard for a vintage fast 50mm. good but neutral colors, smooth but still interesting bokeh, close MFD and ease of use keeps this lens on my canon 5D often. w
Yes, a fine lens. Infact one the first lenses I recommend to people starting out on M42 lenses. The Helios 44-2 being another, for different reasons. Your description of the Oreston's qualities is perfect!
You didn’t say which three your own or I wasn’t listening
Another GREAT video! Congratulations on being monetized!!! I was quite happy when I saw the first advert: Simon has made it!
Thank you so much!
8:50 Domiplan 's extra ordinary bokeh reason.
What is the URL of your Flickr page?
Great videos, they have me going into my attic to find my old film gear.
Thanks and have fun with that old gear! My Flickr page is: www.flickr.com/photos/95859572@N06/?
As always... Great video :) I have 4 mog lenses. They are great.
Fantastic video, yet again. You mentioned something about a trick to get the aperture blades all hidden, so you get all round bokeh bubbles on the Primotar 50mm f/3.5, unfortunately I didn't quite get it. Any chance you'd explain it to me, as I recently bought a Primotar 50mm f/3.5 which is due to arrive tomorrow. Thanks in advance, and best regards, Robert
Hi, many thanks for your kind words. At the front of lens there’s a small ring with a small dot. At first I didn’t realise that it rotated at all, but this needs to be turned to the correct position for the lens to be fully wide open. We’re on holiday right now and I don’t have the lens with me, and I can’t remember which way the ring needs to be turned! Anyway, how you enjoy your ‘new’ lens! Regards, Simon
Thanks ever so much, Simon. I can't wait for the lens to arrive. Most of the lenses I have bought were "informed decisions" based on your videos. Could you see yourself reviewing the Nikon E Series lenses? I have the 50mm f/1.8 and the 28mm f/2.8. Both amazing lenses. Not too expensive. Enjoy your time and I'll give you a shout how the Primotar works.
Bro, primoplan 1.9 goes for 400 to 600 $ on ebay. Crazy!
Yes, the price of that lens...but some of the lenses I've seen on-line have been on sale for a long time, so people must agree the prices are too crazy.
what digital camera did you use to make the images with the Oreston and the Domiplan ?
I use a Pentax K-1 full frame and a Sony a6000 (for it's crop sensor and light weight!).
Ha!
I just went thru my mountain of un-looked at gear and found an Exacta RTL 1000 with the exact Oreston attached. I bought it at an estate sale and forgot about it. The bag has a 300mm Komura...with 18 blades, not sure if the mount is the same. A light meter, filters, flash gear...and all the paperwork.
I'll have to see if there is an adapter to my Sony A7 online.
I guess I can stop looking for a bubble bokeh lens, now.
I picked up a Domiplan quite recently needing 'minor repair'. Turned out the aperture mechanism was broken - it's really fragile with very thin gauge metal pivots pressed on to other metal parts which had come apart over time. It was impossible to fix but it was such a cheap lens that it didn't really matter. It's most useful to me wide open anyway - not keen on the hexagonal bokeh it would produce if it could be stopped down and I really only bought the Domiplan for it's bubble bokeh. I love the images it produces :-)
You might like to note that you can access the aperture mechanism (other than the blades themselves) without disturbing the rear element. The ring at the rear of the body unscrews and gives access to remove the mount.
Many thanks. That's good to know about accessing the rear of the lens. So the screws I mentioned are holding the glass element itself - a different part of the lens. I just decided it was easier to super-glue down the pin, as the aperture mechanism not working correctly anyway, and the lens was really cheap!
@@Simonsutak Yes - apparently those screws align the rear element. I'm not going to mess with those as my Domiplan is much better than expected wide open (where it's most interesting) so I guess the rear glass is where it should be :-). It's a shame that I can't use it stopped down - it's always interesting to me what a simple lens like this could be capable of - but I never expected to be using it for landscapes so I'm pretty happy with it as is!
I have a lens called Pentaflex Auto Color and it looks identical to Oreston 50 mm 1.8.It's the same lens? I guess this is a export rebranded Meyer Oreston 50mm F1,8
Hello.
I regularly watch your videos. Very well done and very useful. Thank you!
I love historical information.
This was so instructive Simon, it was very interesting you talking about the design of lenses etc, I have a few old cameras (Rollieflex f3.5, Minolta Autocord, Olympus OM4, OM1, Soligor TM & a Nikon D7000) and lenses (not many only 50mm Nikon 1.4 & Olympus 1.4) I would love to use the Olympus lens on a digital camera in the future but does not fit on my Nikon camera.
Have you ever used Angenieux cine lenses converted for digital cameras I have a couple and don't know what to do with them?
I absolutely love your channel (mind you, I don't subscribe easily and do so for various reasons) and having no channel of my own, I realise my opinion therefore may be disqualified immediately, but may I suggest a slightly slower narration - a pace that reflects the past?
While i was typing this, I realised the narration may very well be a major factor behind why David Thorpe's channel on Micro Four Thirds is my favourite channel.
Great video as usual. Answers quite a few questions I asked meself.
Domiplan is cheap, in term of build quality. I have exacta mount version and there is a lot of plastic inside. As you said aperture build quality is a a problem and mine is broken. So I shoot it only wide open. Not a problem as I bought it for it. A long minimal focus distance is more of the problem as it limits composition choices.
I have Pentacon Practicar MC 1.8. Not sure is it the same lens as Oreston, looks similar to me. It has bit shorter minimal distance (.45). I like it very much. It manage flare quite well and colours are rich out of camera (then again I tend to shoot in Vivid preset with my Nikon DSLR).
Looks like Exacta and Practica mount tent to be bit cheaper that M42s. For Exacta mount there is really cheap addapter ring to M42 but it may be clumsy and not practical if you own few exacta lenses. (Except if we buy one for each lens in which case it is better to buy M42 in the first place). For mirrorless (like Sony Alfas) a quality and easy to use adaptor exists.
I own few other MOG and Pentacons in less attractive focus lengths like 29mm and 135mm. (I kind have soft spot for 135mm. )
I bought a Domiplan for it's bubble bokeh and all I can say positively about the lens is the pin at the back when pressed operates the iris properly. It is reasonable about f8 but pretty dire at larger apertures, there is a fair amount of dust in it but probably no worse than any other lens of the same age. I do wonder if it's a Friday afternoon job or if it's been dropped from a height or both! looking at your images taken with one you seem to have a far better one than mine. Maybe someone has opened the back of mine and messed up the optics?
Very interesting video. Is there one lens that particularly recommend for microcontrast? Thanks
If you can block the auto pin in the back of the oreston you dont have to use the stop-down button, I have it adapted to m4/3 and it's constantly pressed, so the aperture is just always stopped down to whatever its set (although I much prefer it wide open)
OMG I needed that video! :) Awesome! How did you cleaned the Primotar E? Mine has fungus in the rear (but the 3 screws...)
Hi, for the Primotar E, I simply unscrewed the rear element, using a lens wrench spanner in the notches, and didn't touch the little screws. After cleaning the glass, I screwed it back, and it all seems to have stayed aligned. And the front is even easier - you can just unscrewed the front name plate, without a spanner etc. Good luck!
@@Simonsutak Thank you! 👍
I think SImon read about this warning concerning the possible loss of alignment in some forums.
Scary, isn't it?
In my personal and direct opinion all the people (there are many) who wrote not to touch the three small screws in order to avoid the divine wrath, never tried to check what is the construction of this lens.
If the designers of this lens really decided for this method in order to align correctly the axis of the rear lens, they were some the dumbest engineers and probably were fired after releasing this project.
Not only the factory had to machine the rear lens precisely, but, as true masochists, they also had to loose a lot of time to assemble the lens correctly on a very special machine to guarantee the alignment.
That is what is called "Mass production", meaning that you should first visit the house of the Holy and receive His blessing before you can succesfully produce one lens.
Expensive and time consuming. I wonder how the design of all the other lenses managed to avoid this procedure. Hmmmm: devil's pact?
If you want to clean the fungus, you may want to consider a leap of faith...
@@Simonsutak Done :-) It was really easy :-) Thank you!
On the Domiplan, you can easily reach the pin to block it, without touching the lens configuration/alignment at all. Just unscrew the rear ring, then unscrew the three tiny screws that are then exposed (attaching the mount part to the focus ring assembly). You now have access to the pin and the lever that translates the vertical pin motion into horizontal aperture action. Then you can either block the pin or the lever with tape or plastic.
Always enjoy your reviews - Excellent! My copy of the Oreston is radioactive on the rear element - interesting the Pentacons are not.
I use Legacy lenses for their unique renditions and I love the Oreston 50mm f/1.8...
Excellent research and presentation of each of these. I recently got the Lydith 30 f 3.5 II and I am on a crash course for Meyer optics.
That primotar E 50mm has some nice colors and really interesting bokeh
My Exakta version of the Oreston has an aperture toggle on the same ring as the stop down button.
11.07 Beautiful
The micro range finder lenses with Cooke triplet design are real gems.
A great video, Simon. I don't know why I didn't see this when you first published it. The Oreston or Pentacon 50mm 1.8 is an excellent lens. The Domiplan, however, is a dog IMO. (I thought I could've written the negative review of it you showed in the video.) It's the only lens I've ever thrown away. I didn't want to pass it on to someone else, and it was painful to keep in my collection. Perhaps it was a flaw in my particular lens, but it seemed extremely soft at infinity.
Do you have any experience with lenses by another somewhat obscure German lens maker, Enna Munchen? I have only one, a 28mm Macro Revuenon f2.8 that I like a lot.
Thanks again for your hard work researching and producing these very interesting and informative videos. There are so many good old lenses!
Many thanks for you kind words here and elsewhere. My Domiplan is OK, but the aperture blades are very sticky. Guess I was lucky with the optics (if not mechanics) of my copy. No, I've never used an Enna Munchen lens, but your question has got me searching around ebay!!! I've had my eye on a Steinheil Munchen Quinon 55mm f1.9 M42 for years...maybe one day. As you write, there are so many good old lenses!
Of all the types of Meyer lenses, which one lens can bubble bokeh?
The triplet design lenses can produce bubble bokeh. The cheapest option is the Domiplan 50mm f2.8.
Ok, thank you for your info
I have the domiplan, and the telemegor 300 & 400 they do have their charm.
outstanding video, my good friend is suggesting me to purchase a germen lens i believe you mentioned for bubble bokeh. will these lenses work with canon 5d2 or caonon r?
Hi, I don't use Canon cameras any more, so can't say for certain. But most of the issues (with infinity focus/the rear element hitting the mirror), with using M42 lenses with DSLRs (not mirrorless cameras) seem to be with Nikon's, and only with certain, but not all lenses. You should be OK, but best check with a Canon user for the lens you're thinking of getting.
Whats difference between these and ziess , biotar 58, tessar 50 etc
I am wondering why all english speakers need to read German names as they were English ? It hurts my ears when you read Troplan or Meyer
I wonder what issues you have since you can't deal with his way of saying it.
Because he is English? I love the way he says absolutely every single word :)
Typical Germanic intolerance. How pedantic.
And Germans read names in my mother tongue as if they were in German, which they are not. What do you suggest we do about that, sir?
@@jonlouis2582 I am not German - I am Polish
16:44
Hi, I have the Oreston 1.8 but instead of round bokeh it creates triangle bokeh which isn't so beautiful. Any idea if this is an older or newer version of that Oreston?
I've never seen this triangle bokeh before on an Oreston. Does you copy only have three blades? Wide open it should be round whatever the design/version. I wonder whether some of the blades come loose from their holes/fixings?
@@Simonsutak Thanks for your answer. I think it has only three blades, it's certainly not that blades came loose. The lens is very sharp and wide open there is no problem. But closed down there is this triangle bokeh. I discovered a few posts on the internet now about these lenses, it is not that exceptional apparently.
What is that stone sculpture at 4:50 ?
Bokeh 16:39 Sample 19:09
Great video. How would you rate the Tessar 50mm f2.8?
Good question. The wide open bokeh of the Tessar is nice and smooth, and the lens sharpens up well stopped down. But would I prefer the Oreston to the Tessar? Yes, probably, because it's faster and the rendering has more character. However, the Tessar is still a very good lens for its age. It's especially good for macro work, with extension tubes.
@@Simonsutak Thanks.
Even supposing you are referring to the Carl Zeiss Jena lens and not the generic construction with 4 lens in 3 groups, with how many blades: 14, 12, 8 or 5?
The Meritar has 3 elements cooke design like Trioplan and Domiplan