the hood trick on those trucks is hammer fist the front of the hood at the latch. this is of course after you pulled the release inside the truck but the hood didn't pop. 👍
You gotta make a fist and tap the hood right above the grill on the passenger side. Like 6 inches or so from the middle is the sweet spot. You're welcome 👍
There is a torx screw on the throttle you adjust that to get a steady 1000 rpm then you hook up your scanner and if your cord is long enough you can set it by the wipers so you can see it. Adjust distributor tighten and then adjust the idle back down to 750. If the throttle feels sticky coming off idle then give the throttle adjustment screw a slight tighten and check it again.
@@YLegalRacing and if it’s still giving you grief then you unplug the cam sensor retime it according to spark advance. Shut truck off, plug cam sensor back in. Clear codes start truck. Should be good cam retard should be at zero. (Just fine tunes spark timing anyway the cam can’t be timed by the computer on the small blocks) Also if your truck ever randomly throws the crank cam shaft coralation code after it has been fine for a long time, it means that the distributor gear teeth are almost toast and it has to be changed. And to confirm without pulling distributor is to look for fine magnetic sparkles in your oil/filter. I wiped out one engine because of this issue. When I looked at the ones in my parts trucks… same thing. So I use metal distributors now. I think the plastic ones swell up when they get old and hot. then oil can’t get to the gear.
Saw another video where the guy drilled a hole in the distributor cap to see the spark at number 5 and turned it until the spark was shortest. I did it and it worked perfect, no more correlation code and no computer needed.
@@YLegalRacing All you need is a cheap distributor cap to drill into and put a good one one once its dialed in. Cheaper than bring it to someone with a computer.
We typically observe the cam retard on the scan tool at normal idle. We then make our adjustment, either advance or retard, then whap the throttle to above 1,500 RPM, then letting the idle fall back to normal. This refreshes the data and displays the newly adjusted cam retard position. If the +2 or -2 is touchy and you just can't seem to get it no matter how careful you are, replace your entire distributor. More than likely the gear teeth on the bottom gear are severely worn.
@ylegalracing Just found your videos, loving them. I do have a question about your scanner. I just bought a 99 2 Door, it’s running perfectly, but having a scanner like this is probably a good idea. So my question is, if I buy this scanner and only want to use it for my 99 Tahoe, do I have to continually pay a yearly fee, or since it’s such an old truck will I just be able to buy the scanner and be done with fees ?
Hi Y legal Racing. This video us so so funny. I think my 2000 Tahoe z71 has the exact issue. I think I did this 5 years ago but did not do it at 1000 rpms. I will do this in the next few days. Wish me luck. Any ways I love your energy and positiviness. Reminds me of my self when I was younger. My advice to you is leave the car world after a few years and get into realistate or house repair. In the long run it will pay off more then playing with cars. I still do but if someone told me when I was younger. I would be a richer man now. Again keep up the great attitude. If you are in the bay Area give me buzz.
@@YLegalRacing Wow that is great if you come back let me know. We can grab lunch or something. We can talk about life or cars or ways to make money with good health. I do not know much about Real Estate or fixing house. I just bought a house and wished I knew more about it. I often watch videos on Electrical and house repairs. I know so much about cars and have so much tools but I think that really gets me know where. Again if I could roll back time in my 20's I would try to find a job/career and keep all my hard earn $ on a fixer house. From their flip it for a better house. That would be my advice now. If you every need help with life questions feel free to email me. Dung.Tu@gmail.com. From their maybe I can help with something.
@@YLegalRacing no codes and re timed it. Still no issue with correlation but once it’s up to operating temp it tends to not have power at WOT. Swapped the pcm and spark adv shows 20-32* which was previously negative. I’m at a loss with this vehicle and my client is ready to sell it
How do you know if you need to adjust timing because I have a misfire but I've changed everything on ignition side. Plugs,wires,cap and rotor,ignition coil and module.
If the distributor is not turning it's probably broke. Make sure it's seated all the way, then I would pull it out and make sure the cam gear is not broken.
Nice video thank you for the info I hope thatsballni need to fix mybtahoe ut wont pass emmisions high hc levels and high co levels and p1345 is the only code I have how much for that scanner
I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe. And need some help with the timing as described in this video. I purchased the newer version of your scanner, but I can’t seem to find the CMP option on the live data screen. Any idea of what’s going on?
Did you update it? You have to make sure your scanner is the newer version or the same. Also don't use the eobd function, you have to use the gm screen
@@YLegalRacing no I tried it right out the box. Hopefully it just needs an update. I don’t see why they would remove that menu from a newer model, so I’m hoping that’s the case. And I think I did use the eobd function. I’ll give it a try. Thanks
As I was breaking in my cam (revving around 2500 rpm), my position retard was slowly moving around from -1 to -3, is this normal? Maybe my distributor is too loose?
I don’t understand why mine is reading -45deg on my scan tool. I’ve turned the distributor while running it and no change other than turning one way it wanted to stall. Not sure what I’m doing or what to do. It runs good, but it does have a p0340 code, and sometimes wants to stall when revving from idle
@@YLegalRacing question for ya, after swapping the motor and getting the timing right will anything else need to be reset or calibrated? Or should it just run?
@@YLegalRacing yeah I got a 98 Chevy Silverado that I converted to manual transmission it ext cab got the 5.0 vortec engine lots of power but my timing off and I need to get it fix but I don’t have that much money to get that scan tool I wish I did thow looks like it does it all do u no of any other scan tool that does it do u no if the launch scan tool does it It’s like a rocket with the 5 speed I just don’t want it to blow up like one and I have a little of a idle problem it wants to idle about 1000rpms to and I can’t find out why I put a new fuel pump in it where it wasn’t wanting to run but now I change the tps and got the idle to stop sticking open but still idle at around 1000rpm do u no what it could be
I would look into blue tooth scan tools that use your phone. I used an old school one called torque, you just plug in the obd connector and use your phone to scan. Way cheaper and it may work
Yep definitely paused it thumbs down it and didn't even bother watching it just because of the fact that you got to use a scan tool this for DIY guys people that don't carry those that don't own those
🤣🤣🤣 welp the DIY guy has NO business working on ANYTHING from 1983 and above, cause Computers are a FACT CANT really know what your doing without it, 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Wow thanks bud, I fix old and new and yes unfortunately computers ARE on 95% of cars and trucks and EVERYONE can’t just put a carb and points distributor and a manual fuel pump on there r car and look at you tube to fix it, all I’m saying is DIY is FINE I’m a DIY guy on EVERYTHING and if I don’t know how it works I figure it out and THEN fix it Computer or not, I love old carb 72 and below vehicles but I have newer cars to AND I FIX THEM ALL, why can’t you?? Stop complaining and learn you will like it sir, hope you have a Blessed Day
the hood trick on those trucks is hammer fist the front of the hood at the latch. this is of course after you pulled the release inside the truck but the hood didn't pop. 👍
Ha, is it the hood trick or is it the "hood' trick.............mind freak
You gotta make a fist and tap the hood right above the grill on the passenger side. Like 6 inches or so from the middle is the sweet spot. You're welcome 👍
I have now learned the trick lol
It might take a couple tries but once you get it the first time, it'll get easier and easier
Truuuue
Spray the hood release with WD40.
There is a torx screw on the throttle you adjust that to get a steady 1000 rpm then you hook up your scanner and if your cord is long enough you can set it by the wipers so you can see it. Adjust distributor tighten and then adjust the idle back down to 750. If the throttle feels sticky coming off idle then give the throttle adjustment screw a slight tighten and check it again.
Never knew this!
@@YLegalRacing and if it’s still giving you grief then you unplug the cam sensor retime it according to spark advance. Shut truck off, plug cam sensor back in. Clear codes start truck. Should be good cam retard should be at zero. (Just fine tunes spark timing anyway the cam can’t be timed by the computer on the small blocks)
Also if your truck ever randomly throws the crank cam shaft coralation code after it has been fine for a long time, it means that the distributor gear teeth are almost toast and it has to be changed. And to confirm without pulling distributor is to look for fine magnetic sparkles in your oil/filter. I wiped out one engine because of this issue. When I looked at the ones in my parts trucks… same thing. So I use metal distributors now. I think the plastic ones swell up when they get old and hot. then oil can’t get to the gear.
What is the specifications for the degree timing advance? Mine is wandering between 22 and 24.5, and i dont remember it getting that high before.
Gotta get the exact spec from all data
So you just loosen bolt and grab the cap all the wires are coming off of and rotate it slowly back and forth, until you find 0 degrees?
Yes
@@YLegalRacing thanks! A lot easier than I thought
@seabass22 too easy!
Saw another video where the guy drilled a hole in the distributor cap to see the spark at number 5 and turned it until the spark was shortest. I did it and it worked perfect, no more correlation code and no computer needed.
Jesus drilling is excessive, but whatever works
@@YLegalRacing All you need is a cheap distributor cap to drill into and put a good one one once its dialed in. Cheaper than bring it to someone with a computer.
Very smart actually
We typically observe the cam retard on the scan tool at normal idle. We then make our adjustment, either advance or retard, then whap the throttle to above 1,500 RPM, then letting the idle fall back to normal. This refreshes the data and displays the newly adjusted cam retard position.
If the +2 or -2 is touchy and you just can't seem to get it no matter how careful you are, replace your entire distributor. More than likely the gear teeth on the bottom gear are severely worn.
This is good info!
How do you adjust it when it’s off by more than 2 degrees, just by turning the distributor one way or the other?
Would you be able to tell me what the ignition timing advance should be? I'm showing in the low 20s. Have some misfiring. TIA
Gotta compare to another similarities car
@ylegalracing
Just found your videos, loving them. I do have a question about your scanner. I just bought a 99 2 Door, it’s running perfectly, but having a scanner like this is probably a good idea.
So my question is, if I buy this scanner and only want to use it for my 99 Tahoe, do I have to continually pay a yearly fee, or since it’s such an old truck will I just be able to buy the scanner and be done with fees ?
The fee is only to update for newer vehicles so no. If you buy it you can use the scan tool forever and not have to worry about updating it
Hi Y legal Racing. This video us so so funny. I think my 2000 Tahoe z71 has the exact issue. I think I did this 5 years ago but did not do it at 1000 rpms. I will do this in the next few days. Wish me luck. Any ways I love your energy and positiviness. Reminds me of my self when I was younger. My advice to you is leave the car world after a few years and get into realistate or house repair. In the long run it will pay off more then playing with cars. I still do but if someone told me when I was younger. I would be a richer man now. Again keep up the great attitude. If you are in the bay Area give me buzz.
Aye I used to work in the bay!! Real estate is something I've definitely been thinking about. 👍🏼
@@YLegalRacing Wow that is great if you come back let me know. We can grab lunch or something. We can talk about life or cars or ways to make money with good health. I do not know much about Real Estate or fixing house. I just bought a house and wished I knew more about it. I often watch videos on Electrical and house repairs. I know so much about cars and have so much tools but I think that really gets me know where. Again if I could roll back time in my 20's I would try to find a job/career and keep all my hard earn $ on a fixer house. From their flip it for a better house. That would be my advice now. If you every need help with life questions feel free to email me. Dung.Tu@gmail.com. From their maybe I can help with something.
Appreciate that brotha!
Working on a truck right now shoes -17.5* and cannot for the life of me get it to adjust positively without throwing off the correlation. Any ideas?
Clear the faults and re time the distributor
@@YLegalRacing no codes and re timed it. Still no issue with correlation but once it’s up to operating temp it tends to not have power at WOT. Swapped the pcm and spark adv shows 20-32* which was previously negative. I’m at a loss with this vehicle and my client is ready to sell it
How do you know if you need to adjust timing because I have a misfire but I've changed everything on ignition side. Plugs,wires,cap and rotor,ignition coil and module.
If everything checks out fine your spider may be the issue. Also gotta check for vacuum leaks and clogged fuel filter
@@YLegalRacing @ ey bro, iam working on a 98 tahoe, but distributor does not turns,
If the distributor is not turning it's probably broke. Make sure it's seated all the way, then I would pull it out and make sure the cam gear is not broken.
@@YLegalRacing @ 98 distributor only sets on one position,, unlike the 88-95 tbi,
I'm confused
Nice video thank you for the info I hope thatsballni need to fix mybtahoe ut wont pass emmisions high hc levels and high co levels and p1345 is the only code I have how much for that scanner
$600ish. High HC and high CO means your too rich or you have a bad cat.
@@YLegalRacing ok thank you very much
👍🏼
What scan tool are you using
Autel 808
I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe. And need some help with the timing as described in this video. I purchased the newer version of your scanner, but I can’t seem to find the CMP option on the live data screen. Any idea of what’s going on?
Did you update it? You have to make sure your scanner is the newer version or the same. Also don't use the eobd function, you have to use the gm screen
@@YLegalRacing no I tried it right out the box. Hopefully it just needs an update. I don’t see why they would remove that menu from a newer model, so I’m hoping that’s the case. And I think I did use the eobd function. I’ll give it a try. Thanks
Let me know!
Hey thanks man. That’s what it was I needed to update it.
💪🏽💪🏽
when i shift from P to D or R , sometimes my RPM jump under 750. some times car die, can be this issue ?
Possibly, I'd have it scanned to see what it brings up if any. Also check the fluid
Nice truck... I have the 4 door. Hardly ever see the two door
I love the two doors!!!!
As I was breaking in my cam (revving around 2500 rpm), my position retard was slowly moving around from -1 to -3, is this normal? Maybe my distributor is too loose?
Couldn't answer that one brother
If the timing is off is it going to give a check engine light?
Potentially
@@YLegalRacing thanks appreciate it.
My scan tool only does advanced ignition timing for cylinder 1 is that the same?
I would say no
for my hood, i just pop the release, then shut the driver door and it pops it.
😂😂 I can see that
What do if I do if it won’t idol any lower then 2000
Then you got a bigggggg vacuum leak
I don’t understand why mine is reading -45deg on my scan tool. I’ve turned the distributor while running it and no change other than turning one way it wanted to stall. Not sure what I’m doing or what to do. It runs good, but it does have a p0340 code, and sometimes wants to stall when revving from idle
You may need a new distributor, gotta remember to unplug the connector by the glove box when your doing this adjustment.
@@YLegalRacing inside the cab??
I didn’t have this problem until I did my intake manifold gaskets. Put a new cap and rotor on the distributor. First time timing an engine.
Correct
I would try retiming the distributor and start over
What’s the scanner called like what’s the hole name and model
Just look up autel scanners
Where can I grab that scan tool at? And what is the price for one??
Click the link in my description!
I don't see a link in the description, did you get rid of it?
What if it just cranks after a new distributor
Gotta make sure you have it clocked the right way
What happened to the link in the description
Affiliate link doesn't work anymore, Amazon doesn't want me to be a partner 🤷🏽♂️
Just put a new motor in my 96 2 door this definitely helped
Glad I could help!
@@YLegalRacing question for ya, after swapping the motor and getting the timing right will anything else need to be reset or calibrated? Or should it just run?
Run it, that's all you basically need. Fluids, oil, etc
@@YLegalRacing thanks I really appreciate it
👌🏽
Love the 2dr! I’m on my 7th one in 3 years
Don't know if I should be happy for you or worried jeez that's a lot
Hmm 🤔
@Leighton Remington ok what's flixzone
7th In 3 years!!! I hope you’re collecting them and not massacring them. Lol
No masacare will be done here
Would you still want the timing in the same range if you cammed your engine?
That's a different story, I'd go with what the cam manufacture wants
How is that easier than a simple timing light???
I already did it with a timing light to set initial timing but you can not finely adjust it to spec without the scan tool. It's just how it's set up.
Timing lights don’t work for all things that why I like older trucks
Older trucks for the win
@@YLegalRacing yeah I got a 98 Chevy Silverado that I converted to manual transmission it ext cab got the 5.0 vortec engine lots of power but my timing off and I need to get it fix but I don’t have that much money to get that scan tool I wish I did thow looks like it does it all do u no of any other scan tool that does it do u no if the launch scan tool does it It’s like a rocket with the 5 speed I just don’t want it to blow up like one and I have a little of a idle problem it wants to idle about 1000rpms to and I can’t find out why I put a new fuel pump in it where it wasn’t wanting to run but now I change the tps and got the idle to stop sticking open but still idle at around 1000rpm do u no what it could be
I would look into blue tooth scan tools that use your phone. I used an old school one called torque, you just plug in the obd connector and use your phone to scan. Way cheaper and it may work
Does any one no of any other scan tool that do this
gotta do research on this one, i dont know of any off the top of my head
I’m using this video to fix mine actually.
Ayye! Glad I could help. I was actually thinking of getting a 2nd one myself lol
Haha, get the garden hose and a stick to clean that shoe, but thanks for the video!!👍
No problem 👌🏽
Make n model of the scan tool?
Autel 808 check the link in my description for the scan tool! It's beast
Is this the same as the MX808 as Autel claims?
Should be
I see a f100 haha 😄 351 , 390 or 460 ?
351 🤫🤫 you see nothing!!!!
Thank you
Your very welcome 😁
Yep weighs 7500 i believe
Jeeeeeeez that's heavy
That scan tool is $500 on Amazon
Yeah I paid for that one. Comes with the case, adapters, cables and charger. It's $400 just for the scan tool itself
Not really helpful at all. All you need to do is buy a $500 tool.
It's helped plenty so far
Bolt not nut
Same same but different, but still same
you literally did not show how to set it at all....
We'll do better next time!
LMAO!!!!!!!!!!
👋🏽
Yep definitely paused it thumbs down it and didn't even bother watching it just because of the fact that you got to use a scan tool this for DIY guys people that don't carry those that don't own those
Then it wouldn't be diy
@@YLegalRacing lame as f..
🤣🤣🤣 welp the DIY guy has NO business working on ANYTHING from 1983 and above, cause Computers are a FACT CANT really know what your doing without it, 🤷♂️🤷♂️
@@gregjustice7013 😂 😂 at you.. shows exactly how intelligent you are..😂 😂.. momma.. I can't figure it out.. I need a computer.. 😂 😂 pathetic.
Wow thanks bud, I fix old and new and yes unfortunately computers ARE on 95% of cars and trucks and EVERYONE can’t just put a carb and points distributor and a manual fuel pump on there r car and look at you tube to fix it, all I’m saying is DIY is FINE I’m a DIY guy on EVERYTHING and if I don’t know how it works I figure it out and THEN fix it Computer or not, I love old carb 72 and below vehicles but I have newer cars to AND I FIX THEM ALL, why can’t you?? Stop complaining and learn you will like it sir, hope you have a Blessed Day