Very cool. We learn a lot from these videos! Thank you. The only time I did that ( and not as well) is when I replaced the clutch on my 67. Later I chemically striped the paint off and had the car repainted (same color of course). Looked like a brand new car.
I agree 100% a clean car runs better and makes for a happy driver. I had completed a 8 step paint correction and finishing with ceramic coating inside and out. Makes cleaning the car easier, which I like to wash and clean my car myself then run my bare hand over, smooth as a babies bottom. Plus you can notice any changes or defects that need addressing. After driving and parking your car, as you walk away and don't turn around and look at your car you bought the wrong car. Puts a smile on my mug.
Ahh the nitty gritty of cleaning. Nasty, but necessary. Thanks for a great year of videos. Looking forward to your work next year. Happy New Year! Cheers.
Hi Tom, great work as usual! I hope this gets to you in time. When I had the engine out of my '84, I spent a lot of time cleaning & refurbing, as you have done. I particularly spent quite a bit of time cleaning the glue residue from the previous sound pad in preparation for it's replacement. Mine was far messier than yours! I happened to stumble on a thread in a forum suggesting the use of magnets instead of glue to install the re[placement pad. After sourcing some strong thin disc magnets, marked out their location on the new pad and glued them on. I can't remember if I used a hot glue gun or a Sikaflex polyurethane but the result was fantastic! The pad fits beautifully and hugs the contours of the body work with no sagging at all. And it's also easily removable for servicing! I have pics if you want me to send you some.
MY ageing memory fails me here but I either used a hot glue gun or a small tube of Sikaflex polyurethane. If I were to make that choice now I would definitely use the polyurethane. Not much glue is required for each magnet.
I just went out to the car to refresh my memory and noticed that I seem to have use a glue that is no visible any more which suggests I may have used a dab of clear epoxy. The magnets are about 20mm diameter & 2-3mm thick. They are spaced at about 12 inches in a grid pattern. It looks like the strong magnets I used may pull off the foam pad if I tried to remove the pad. This is no biggie as only a thin amount of foam would tear off. Next time around, I would use slightly larger diameter magnets of less strength and definitely use the polyurethane glue.
Thank you for running out and checking your car. I'm guessing the magnets can tuck inside the metal impressions. Probable standard black magnets would work well enough. I'll order some and let you know how it goes.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto '77 911, doing a home garage back date, kind of like your first 911. Will be pulling the engine soon and while out, will do some much needed cleaning like this video. Real interested in you testing the handling changes with moving the roll center on your other 911 (control arm pivot points). Keep up to good work!
Good job and doing like your doing is great - always wanted a Porsche convertable - but worried about the engine so this is good for me = but i brought a subaru turbo = FANTASTIC > 2001 forester GT .
There’s a misconception that the 911 didn’t change much over the years but the amount of stuff crammed into an 80s 911 is staggering compared to 60s cars.
I have an 78 SC. I would like to update the cv joint with the sealed joints. Can it be done. If so do you recommend it? What would be required to make that change?
Anything can be done, but I'm not sure the cost would be worth it. You could get 915 output flanges from an 85 I think and then use the G50 axles and stub axles. That's an expensive upgrade, but doable I think.
Tom, happy new year! just a heads up that with the G50 transmission it is really difficult to replace the swing arm bushing with the transmission in place There’s more room with a 915 transmission, but with a G50 I could not seem to get any wrench in there to do it. I ended up doing my entire series of suspension bushings and I’m waiting until I do an engine rebuild before I tackle those Inboard swing arm bushings. In other words, I would recommend doing those now. If you come up with a way to do it with the transmission in place, I would love to see it! Maybe there’s a way you can create a wrench to accomplish it
Great work. A clean car is a happy car.
Thanks Tom for entertaining us all year.
This was super helpful for removing my fuel hardline. Thanks!
So nice to have a California car. Cleaned-up really nicely.
Thanks, this car spent most of its life on the East Coast. Probably a fair weather car though.
I like the quality look of the new pad over the old used version. Engine bay looks great. All the best for 24'.
Same to you! Happy New year😀🎆🎇
Always a great video.
Very cool. We learn a lot from these videos! Thank you. The only time I did that ( and not as well) is when I replaced the clutch on my 67. Later I chemically striped the paint off and had the car repainted (same color of course). Looked like a brand new car.
I agree 100% a clean car runs better and makes for a happy driver. I had completed a 8 step paint correction and finishing with ceramic coating inside and out. Makes cleaning the car easier, which I like to wash and clean my car myself then run my bare hand over, smooth as a babies bottom. Plus you can notice any changes or defects that need addressing. After driving and parking your car, as you walk away and don't turn around and look at your car you bought the wrong car. Puts a smile on my mug.
Very cool, did you ceramic coat the wheels and brakes etc too? Keep up the good work.
Ahh the nitty gritty of cleaning. Nasty, but necessary. Thanks for a great year of videos. Looking forward to your work next year. Happy New Year! Cheers.
I saved the de carbonizing of the pistons for the next episode. What fun!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto that will be a good one... I may need to do that on the v12 pistons.
Hi Tom, great work as usual!
I hope this gets to you in time. When I had the engine out of my '84, I spent a lot of time cleaning & refurbing, as you have done. I particularly spent quite a bit of time cleaning the glue residue from the previous sound pad in preparation for it's replacement. Mine was far messier than yours!
I happened to stumble on a thread in a forum suggesting the use of magnets instead of glue to install the re[placement pad.
After sourcing some strong thin disc magnets, marked out their location on the new pad and glued them on. I can't remember if I used a hot glue gun or a Sikaflex polyurethane but the result was fantastic!
The pad fits beautifully and hugs the contours of the body work with no sagging at all. And it's also easily removable for servicing!
I have pics if you want me to send you some.
Great idea. How do you stick the magnets to the foam? It's not too late for me.
MY ageing memory fails me here but I either used a hot glue gun or a small tube of Sikaflex polyurethane. If I were to make that choice now I would definitely use the polyurethane. Not much glue is required for each magnet.
I just went out to the car to refresh my memory and noticed that I seem to have use a glue that is no visible any more which suggests I may have used a dab of clear epoxy. The magnets are about 20mm diameter & 2-3mm thick. They are spaced at about 12 inches in a grid pattern. It looks like the strong magnets I used may pull off the foam pad if I tried to remove the pad. This is no biggie as only a thin amount of foam would tear off.
Next time around, I would use slightly larger diameter magnets of less strength and definitely use the polyurethane glue.
Thank you for running out and checking your car. I'm guessing the magnets can tuck inside the metal impressions. Probable standard black magnets would work well enough. I'll order some and let you know how it goes.
Great video it is kind of fun to see what it takes to do the job.
Thanks, I know most professional shops don't do this level of detail and repair while fixing an engine.
Happy New Years, it's the details like this that make this specific channel a winner. Lot's of relevant tips for my project.
Cool, what are you working on?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto '77 911, doing a home garage back date, kind of like your first 911. Will be pulling the engine soon and while out, will do some much needed cleaning like this video. Real interested in you testing the handling changes with moving the roll center on your other 911 (control arm pivot points). Keep up to good work!
Same to you, keep it up.
Good job and doing like your doing is great - always wanted a Porsche convertable - but worried about the engine so this is good for me = but i brought a subaru turbo = FANTASTIC > 2001 forester GT .
Have fun with that Subie! The engines are kind of similar, but Porsche parts can be pricey for the same amount of power.
Happy New Year! Engine bay looks great. I hope you don’t rent this one. It is going to be a real nice car when you are finished.
There’s a misconception that the 911 didn’t change much over the years but the amount of stuff crammed into an 80s 911 is staggering compared to 60s cars.
Omg, this is so true. They drive totally different too. It's a very luxurious and comfortable car. A polar opposite to longhood MAC.
I have an 78 SC. I would like to update the cv joint with the sealed joints. Can it be done. If so do you recommend it? What would be required to make that change?
Anything can be done, but I'm not sure the cost would be worth it. You could get 915 output flanges from an 85 I think and then use the G50 axles and stub axles. That's an expensive upgrade, but doable I think.
Tom, happy new year! just a heads up that with the G50 transmission it is really difficult to replace the swing arm bushing with the transmission in place There’s more room with a 915 transmission, but with a G50 I could not seem to get any wrench in there to do it. I ended up doing my entire series of suspension bushings and I’m waiting until I do an engine rebuild before I tackle those Inboard swing arm bushings. In other words, I would recommend doing those now. If you come up with a way to do it with the transmission in place, I would love to see it! Maybe there’s a way you can create a wrench to accomplish it
Thanks for the heads up on the suspension bushings. I've not done this before on a G50.
I'm always walking on the edge of a slippery slope.
Looks like the Turtle Wax is discontinued...or not available in California? Any suggestions on alternatives for cleaning the wiring harness?
Hmm try goo gone