cutting lists for the geo-dome plans
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- This video shows how to work out an efficient cutting list for any of the Geo-Dome plans. It's actually easier that you may think as a dome has many parts that are the same length.
Love this channel. I’m a single mom with the kids. You’ve inspired me to learn to self build one.
You discussed parts(buying) list, not cutting list. The cutting list list the lengths, angles, of all the different cuts. And when you use your beveled frame method, the strut lengths and angles become even more complex because now a hex triangle for example, has three different struts instead of just two different ones.
I sat here for a few days trying to figure out how you seem to build beveled frame style domes, and never show us that the hex framing as 3 different strut sizes, not just 2 like you seem to lead on. But i figured out how you accomplish it, you did show us that part in other video. You just make the first angle and get it right, then leave the saw setting alone, then put the wood into the jig, then cut that second cut in the jig with a handsaw, and therefore that is how you don't even need to know the actual lengths and angles on that second cut. Genius way of making it easy. On a pent triangle using beveled frame they surly won't be the same inside angles on all three inside cuts, you have it transitioning from one node to another node that is closer, therefore changes the angles on the pent triangles, and then adding beveled frame to it, that adds more complexity.
FYI, using the beveled frame method causes you to have double the amount of different struts, that is information i never heard you tell us. I know it doubles the amount of struts, but that is not what i said, i am saying it also doubles the amount of DIFFERENT struts, so in other words if you had 3 different struts in the entire dome, making beveled frame causes 6 different struts sizes as well as double the amount. Because now, instead of all the interior struts of a hexagon being the same lengths and angles, every other one is different now, after converting it into your beveled frame method and applying it to 3 dimensions. Yea, on a piece of paper a hex triangle(one of the six triangles in a hexagon) has only 2 different lengths, but in three dimensions when the lines are not just pencil lead, they are actual lumber boards that have thickness and width too and not only length, it affects the final result.
Like on a 19ft 3v dome for example, every other one of the hex interior struts are 7/16(11-12mm) longer than the other one now, that is way too huge to ignore, and the base is shorter than all of them as expected. The base of the hex triangle will be the shortest of the 3, then the other 2 are the same length right? No, not when you use what you are calling the beveled frame method, now each length and angle is different on all 3 strut cuts of a hex triangle. And that makes the other pent triangles more complicated too, the same stuff happens, you end up with double the different sizes and angles of strut cuts when you convert to beveled frame method. The staggered seams at the hub are the reason the struts come out different lengths that would otherwise be the same length if you just broke it down the center and did half and half like how a square picture frame uses 45 degree to break the two struts equally, but in a triangle it will be different angle, but the angle that breaks the 2 into equal parts along the vertex, but it needs to be staggered like you are doing, to be strong. Doing it the way we are doing(having it come out staggered at the hub vertex), it causes one strut to reach to the vertex, and the other don't, and that is what causes the struts that would otherwise be the same length and angle, be different. I know the other side reaches the other vertex, but it is a different vertex, and that is where it changes things. All this has held me up from building it, still sitting here trying to confirm what i think i found by drawing hundreds of domes in the last month.
I spent like a week, no i mean a month( i started from scratch), then a rest for a week, doing drawings over and over trying to be sure what was happening, and it is happening. Staggering the strut joints at the vertex causes it to be more complicated. But you are who inspires me, thank you. But that is why i am talking to you, without you i wouldn't have tried to figure this out. And since i am like a perfectionist i will not ignore 11-12 mm of gap. And that perfectionist in me is why i want to try to build it with all the joints and tight fitting angles, that makes it strong. I want to be able to say " fuck that PVC pipe dome piece of shit". lol It is cheap and easy, but that is not what i am looking for, and i plan to use thick lumber, well thicker than what you been using on your 20ft domes, but it will cost me more because you have an advantage that your standard lumber comes in better(bigger) sizes... It will still be cheap, but not so cheap like a PVC dome or EMT dome or something.
And if i can't confirm or disprove from an outside source what i think i found(staggering struts at the vertex causes double the amount of different struts) from my drawings, then i won't attempt to build it, i would be displeased if there is any gaps and i will throw it away, or burn it. And i don't want to buy all that lumber just to watch it burn. I might not burn it, depending on how big the gaps, but i won't like it. But if i built this thing while ignoring 12mm that should be there, or adding 12mm that shouldn't be there, on every other strut, the gaps would be so much i doubt the struts would come around to meet itself and connect as a dome. But if i just use your process of making the first angle cut, then laying the wood in the jig, and handsaw the second cut, there will be no gap it will fit by default.
Hi Paul,
Three years ago I bought a dome-plan from you and I have a wonderful dome in my garden in which I am still building an aquaponics system.
During the build I needed to buy a lot of material for the dome and the aquaponics system. Timber for the dome, polycarbonate plating (32mm) for the dome, finnish plywood for my round growbeds (6mm and 18mm), timber for the stiffening ribs of the growbeds, insulation plates for the growbeds, pond liner for the growbeds, timber for giant clamps for bending the growbeds, wire ends etc etc ets. To make sure I would buy just the right amount of materials I used Maxcut. It is freeware software. There is a payed version, but the freeware version suited my needs. With this program you can find out the optimal amount of timber or plating for the things you want to make. It gives you neat print outs so that you can see which panels or lengths you have to cut from which item you bought. Each time I used it, it matched perfectly. It takes some time to get the hang of the program, but I got it to do the job. Because different suppliers often have different measurements of materials, I even used it to find the cheapest supplier.
This may sound like an advert, but I am in no way affiliated with the company which makes this program. I am just thrilled about their product and I thought perhaps other people might find it usefull too.
Kind regards,
Lorenz
Excellent:). You’re a natural teacher - thank you.
Hi Paul i wondered if i can use thicker struts with the same diameter? Does it stay the same angle or bevel then?
Делал запрос на почту .....от Вас нет ответа ! Начал сам строить по Вашим видео .......но опасаюсь что с основанием не всё получится !! Прошу Вас ответить - как я могу приобрести чертежи - ПОДРОБНЫЕ !?
Очень хорошо ! но как приобрести подробные чертежи В3 радиусом 5 метров ?
начерти сам - это не так уж и сложно, в скетче - делается, можешь даже расчитать под листы облицовки -чтоб обрезков не оставалось...- в России одна беда - нет денег... а если поднимишь книги 4-х годов советские - там ещё и расчёты жёсткости есть... -денег нет нихера , никогда ... - поэтому все за поребрик и валят...
What program is this?
sketchup