The problem with limit switches that you comment is the reason why in the industry it's so common to use current signals instead of voltage ones. The 4-20mA protocol is the most common, in which 4mA is logic zero, and 20mA is logic one, but if you read 0mA that means the signal path (or the sensor) is broken. These signals usually just pass through a resistor to generate a voltage and that voltage is then assigned a logic value.
This is an awesome video series. I just found your site today and I have to say, I truly enjoy your delivery and content. Thank you Jeremy. I look forward to watching some more.
Jeremy, my daughter is now in her 30's and renovating her second house " by herself". I have to hope that letting her help as a child influenced her confidence to think through any challenge.
Great video, Jeremy. I'm really enjoying this series. One note about wiring your quick-disconnects. Your description of soldering the solder cups is a recipe for cold solder joints. The wire should be fixtured in the solder cup first, then be soldered in place. If you fill the cup with solder first, then by the time you insert the wire, all of the flux will have burned off and the solder is likely not to properly wet the wire. Also, you can use normally closed limit switches on a single input by wiring them in series. This way any one that opens trips the controller.
WHOA. Your comment on the limit switch closing the circuit means the switch is pressed close (or normally open). Limit switches should always always be normally closed, so when they fail, they fail open and your motors don't drive whatever into the frame, burning out the motor and doing damage. You're my new favorite youtuber, BTW. I just don't want your beautiful machine to be able to tear itself apart.
I'm so happy RUclips recommended this channel to me. such a cool dude with really interesting projects. One of the best DIY engineering channels I've seen, definitely deserves more subs.
I really love your videos, including this one. But for me as a German it is really funny how you say "DIN". DIN is a german abreviation which stands for "Deutsche Industrie Norm" which translates to "German Industry Standard" in english. The "I" in DIN is a long vocal so it should sound more like "dean". 😉
Brother Jeremy we are waiting for your space craft,but truely am really always pleased with your hand making great,you inspire too much let God enlarge your skills.
NO and NC is the "de-energized" state of the relay/switch, i.e., the state it's in when it's disconnected from all power sources, and not necessarily the "resting state, the condition it is in all the time". I only think this clarification is needed because we use NO and NC relays at work, but we often have them wired to be constantly energized (so basically "NO, held closed" or "NC, held open"), so "the condition it is in all the time" wouldn't necessarily match up with what pins are actually connected.
A properly applied crimp pin for instance in a connector shell beats a soldered wire to pin connection any time. Soldered connections are not common in panel building. Under some versions of electrical code, they are actually prohibited in some instances for instance in high current power carrying conductors.
1st: If you didn't want to spend the money on a RJ-45 break out board (those things get expensive), and don't want to worry about breaking a custom cable, you could make a short length of custom wired cable that goes from the component to a bulkhead connector in the panel side. Then run from the bulkhead to the component on the machine with a normally wired cable. This way, your custom wired cable is safe inside the cabinet and you have standard cables outside in any potentially dangerous areas, without the expense of the breakout board. The other is that you were showing wiring all of the switches in parallel for not being able to detect one of several NC switches opening. If you wire the NC switches in series, you can detect one of several NC switches opening. Further, for safety critical applications, both the NO and NC side of the switch should be monitored as NC contacts can't detect shorts or failures to open and NO contacts cannot detect wire breaks. Remember, a damaged cable doesn't always fail open, sometimes it will develop a short between conductors, especially if it manages to flex and chafe through insulation. Wire the NC sides in a series loop, and wire the NO sides in a parallel group. The control should monitor for both the NC and NO circuits to be in the "safe" state. Probably overkill for limit switches, but a must for multiple e-stops or palm button controls.
+1 If you put your NC switch in series, any toggled switch will open the circuit, thus telling you that a switch has been triggered... It just makes the broken cable problem more difficult to solve... and you will need connectors to jump from one switch to the other...
@@ocAToccd He said that he has a limited number of inputs, and the nc in series is the best option for that. Sure, its more difficult to find the fault that way, but only marginally. And even then its easier to find and repair this electrical fault than Repair a bent Router frame.
At 12:47 you say you can't wire multiple normally closed switches together if you want any one of them to cut the power. Your diagram showed the switches connected in parallel, so any one would bypass another. But, if they were in series, they would function properly. With positive "OR" logic, we want normally open switches in parallel. With negative "OR" logic, we want normally closed switches in series.
Jeremy, excellent video explaining the POWER Supply for a CNC machine. I would hope you explain couple of things about VFDs. 1. Which is the better VFDs to use for especially at home, since the homes in the US are single phase 120/220. I have read that getting a spindle that is 2.2Kw and 220 volts is not good to run on a VFD that takes 120/220 volts single phase and converts it to 220 volt 3 Phase. It would great to hear your point of view since you have done excellent videos on various motors. :)
Re: the soldering, the melt-and-dunk method may not be wise: generally you want all the metal involved to be at the same temperature to prevent a bad joint ("cold joints" can look and feel solid but not actually be soldered.) If the wires can't take the heat required without melting their jacket, you can separately tin them (well), and then do the melt-and-dunk, but maybe hold the iron at the joint for an extra second or two to make sure it's all bonding.
I can't make a straight box or many of the other things you find easy but I have been soldering for 40 years (!) and I would respectfully suggest you add a technical correction to the description as described above. Otherwise you run the risk of a bad joint or worse - an intemittent connection which is a pita to diagnose. I think this is shaping up to be a great series and I'm looking forward to the next episode. Proud to be one of your patreons.
Nice video. I like the advice about having your children out in the shop. I did have a quick comment about your limit switch NC vs NO answer. I hadn't thought about it before as my controller wants the switches NO. There are two sets of pins on the controller for each axis. They are the same electronically and the controller figures out if the positive or negative switch was tripped based on its movement. When you said that having NC switches connected prevented you from having multiple switches connected, that isn't true. You just need to wire them in series vs parallel. That way if any one of the switches or connecting wires creates an open circuit, the controller will stop. I like the idea of sending a positive signal from the switch vs no signal and assuming all is good. The odds of your wiring developing a short when using NC configuration seems very minimal vs. in the NO configuration having a wire or connection break and always sending an all clear signal. I am going to check my controller to see if it will allow the NC signal and if it does, I just may switch which terminal I am using on the switches. P.S. I send a link to your video where you were showing off your new CNC machine and he has been drooling ever since as he would love to have something like that in his shop. :-)
heh im the oppsite, build a box square and level!?! what is that witchcraft! box with a billion wires, yea most of them are ground the rest are doing something no problem where's a napkin
How many hours or days would it take me to get the ways straight parallel and level? My guess is a month if I don't give up part way through. Wire up a dozen limit switches, multiple power rails, BLDC motors with position feedback, an E-Stop, etc... No problem. I've wired up a small 3 axis CNC before. A friend did all of the mechanical parts. The only fasteners I put in myself were for holding cables in place.
Maybe the wire you needed off the shelf was a "crossover" Ethernet cable? There are really just two types of RJ45 cables (crossover and straight through), unless the company who manufactured the encoder did something really special just for their stuff (a possibility). Your pin out board is a better flexible solution to make any off the shelf cord work as long as you know the pin out it needs to be. Probably save yourself money than buying "special made" cords from any manufacturer.
Like a crossover cable? Where the wires are crossed so the order of wires is different at one plug than the other. They have them, but I don’t know if the order is right. You can cut the end off, reorder the cables and crimp on a new connector.
Hi Jeremy. I came over to look at your videos after watching Bills' video that he did on DC motor closed loop. I thought that I finally found what I have been looking for after years of research, however he used a potentiometer for feedback. I have been an industrial CNC tech for over 35 years now and every machine that I have ever installed or repaired uses encoders. It seems like many people think that steppers and servos are about the same. Steppers are for toys in my field. I am looking for someone to use the cheap DC gear motor with encoder to design a closed loop "mini" system. As far as a CNC, I would only use AC servo, if I had the money. That not being the case, because I am basically poor, lol, I have to resort to old used DC motors. If you could some day design the closed loop 24 volt DC gear motor with encoder, I would appreciate it more than I can tell you.
As for soldering, if you take a small piece of thin solder and twist it inline with strands of the wire, you can then put the wire into the cup and hold the iron on top of the wire and the solder will melt and make the connection. I have wired a lot of solder cups.
For someone who wants to have a try/play with CNC I would recommend getting an Arduino UNO and install GRBL on it, then you can just use a couple of very cheap stepper motors with control board ($3 each on ebay) cobble together something very basic to move a pointer around and then experiment with what you can do with the software. Making a full size CNC router is not more more difficult than this, just needs bigger stepper control units :-) To quickly create some gcode to try on it have a search for JSCUT BTW - Have a look at GRBL on an ESP32 - this is really impressive
Geeze! You’re a creative polymath! I’m glad you’re teaching and sharing what you know. From what I see of kids today, very few are ever even exposed to the kinds of knowledge you have.
@@Jeremy_Fielding there is nothing in the description about this you are using mechanical switches there is no transistor output. If they are wired in series with NC then any one limit switch tripped will break the digital signal to the plc and so will do the same if you only had your one limit.
I think there was an error or something. I added a correction to the description and then it wasn't there?? I don't know what happened, but I added it again. It should be there now.
Thks .......... however the actual equipment/electronics are very distracting/intimidating. But when you showed a diagram/schematic, my anxiety when away, I claimed down, & I started understanding again. Yeap unless it's simple, it's pretty complicated to me & quite of few other folks. ???Oh Oh Oh what is the best KISS book for SolidWorks that would have made learning it for you a piece-of-cake in hind-sight (hopefully thin too)???
Jeremy, I discovered your channel a week ago and it didn't take long till I subscribed. You are awesome, I like the way you keep it within a range of understanding and leave the rest to us to figure out. That makes your videos so fantastic. You explain and teach us so much yet leaves us with just the details to figure out on our own for our personal application. I think it's safe and so smart. By the way, when you said "ask me how I know", I knew the answer to that because I did it too, more than once. lol... A month ago I was given an old industrial copier machine and an old industrial color printer. I took them apart and kept all I wanted, maybe a little more. Later on is when I found you. I don't know what I'm going to do with all those small stepping motor, compared to the large one you found in that copier machine. If you don't live too far from me I may ask you if you want anything I don't need and I'll send them to you. I live in central Alabama. I have tons of parts I hoarded for a long while which most I probably never use. I never sell anything, I give it away or I throw it away. I also dismantle a threadmill and kept the parts, now that I saw how you made a bench power supply out of it I need to find the box where I put all that electronics in. I want to make one just like yours, it's awesome... Thanks again for an awesome channel. Keep the great work.
Hi, any chance you can show a close up of the soldering process, I’m not sure I understand what you mean about filling the cup and dunking the wire in?
Great Idea... I hate I missed that. There will probably be 100 comments from people telling me I could do that LOL. I will add a note to the description. This is a simple and probably obvious solution to people who design these cabinets for a living.
This being an overview presentation I would not expect such details. I'm sure there's videos of people soldering cup terminals. In fact searching the term soldering cup terminals several pop up.
Why use the RJ45 Switch board? You can cut one end of the cable and wire a new RJ45 connector onto the end in your new configuration. They also make a much smaller RJ45 breakout. Why use these at all? What was the problem of just cutting the end off and stripping back the jacket the amount needed and wire in directly? Just seems like extra expense and no one would have been the wiser.
be careful when sizing transformers for power supplies. Full wave rectified DC with filter capacitors will yield 1.417 x (transformer's AC RMS voltage) = peak, with no load. Only reason I mention it is because if someone is looking to source an Xfmr for a project, they should be aware that it's not as simple as grabbing a 24 v transformer to create a 24v DC supply.
can i suggest a topic... which is totally self-directed. but which effect everyone of us... 'gadgets' that will make life easier as we age. stuff that will allow us to do the day to day crap we do now, but when we're 'old' - and 'old' is different for everyone - how can we live in our homes longer.
About the “eathernet switch” you made, Siemens makes connectors that you cut the cord and you can wire the connectors any way you want. You don’t need to strip them either, you just line them up and clamp it together (the connector and the wires are everything you need.) it’s what we do at work for this sort of thing. I’m very impressed with how compact you made the control cabinet! Although it is a bit messy, but it’s not going to a customer, so works for me! 😂 haha
As an electrician we use cat5 or cat6 connectors. A crimping to which is only about 20 bucks is needed though. For communication we use the b color code. From connecting one pc to another pc we use a on one end and b on ther other. There are connectors for data cable that doesn't require crimping tool but they are bulky and expensive.
Jeremy. i am so happy to "meet" you on RUclips. you are doing a terrific job. please keep up all the informative videos, great content, and hard work. so honest: "ask me how I know !?!" 'A-Plus'...jumping the 80volts. just like jumping 12v on the back of a gauge cluster. but...your information..."makes my old head spin". any, and all, negative comments are just (know-it-all =) "yada, yada, yada." so very proud of you and all of your hard work. very best to you and yours. walt.
Hey Jeremy, here’s to a very good channel, 🍺and one question from one engineer to another, where are you able to source some of your aluminum extrusion profiles from for non-retail prices? Any clues/hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
You are a fantastic parent. I feel the best thing you have taught your kids is to have an inquisitive mind! You have also taught them by example to be lifelong learners and problem solvers!! Great job!!! You are a great role model for all dads!!!
You actually popped for RJ45 breakout boards? If you cut one open, it's just eight wires in 4 twisted pairs, and you can run them wherever you want. If you break out the wires yourself, that might've made cable management easier (hard to tell exactly without being there), and if the twised-pair-ness is important for signal integrity, you'll get more protection the closer they are to the signal generator when they un-twist. I see your point about not making a custom cable for A-B conversion, though: I'd hate to come across an ethernet (read: Cat 5) cable with different pinouts on either end. Well, take my "advice" with a grain of salt, as I'm still in the theoretical stage of designing with these cables and haven't yet cable-managed or put them on an oscilloscope. Also, I'm pretty comfortable with soldering; if you're not, a pre-made breakout board could save quite some frustration. "Don't ask me how I know." ;)
For the cat5 "translator" you might be able to find a "punch-down block" that is the kind of thing used when doing telecom wiring with all kinds of RJ cables (as long as you don't need the twisted-pair nature of the cat5 cable, which it sounds like you probably don't)
Smile on my face Made By You Jeremy! Works well and what I needed to Fit my day! ~ Thanks! note: I don't make or really understand all this, but I DO Know ~ W0W! Look how much you've done! I Enjoy listening about ALL created. Hold Close the Sound a Energy of Your Kids - They grow up too fast! Hi to them & 'Mom' there as well! Cheers to All : } ~- *
You are one of the finest in explaining these concepts to the average Joe like me. And I’m sure students already in the field (ing) love it as well. Thanks for all you do!
What a great video, especially with your family. Sometimes you just need to step back, take break so your mind can clear n figure a solution to what is a speed bump inyour thought process. Having yourkids come in, ask some simple or even crazy questions, to get you over that bump and figure your way to move along. You are a remarkable person, n a great dad. Everyone is learning, in more ways than one. I feel better now just watching. I learned something. At 66 some times its hard to teach an old dog new tricks. 40 years as a residential journeyman electrician, now retired, a breath of fresh air is sometimes what you need. Thanks so much for sharing, n wish more parents lived life like you. The world needs more parents like you.
To be correctly pedantic, the connector is a an 8P8C modular plug. RJ45 is actually a telecommunications standard that designates a connector that is very similar to (but not exactly the same as) an 8P8C modular plug, and also a particular wiring configuration (a single telephone line wired to the middle two pins and a sense resistor across another pair of pins.
@@ryanblakeslee1406 Just imagine how horrific the experience of trying to find a real RJ45 socket would be (8P8C plugs fit in RJ45 sockets but not the other way round).
0:18 Proma THC in the control box! I won't be taking any of your advice and that's for starters. Not to mention no shielded cables or ferrite beads on the wiring!
You're the only person I know to be able to ask...or would trust the response to. Is the video titled "Free power - how to convert an old washing machine into a water powered generator" (by Angry Ram) for real? Would that REALLY work?
Unrelated to this video, but I cant find much information on net about how universal motor brake works (other than a general description). Also how to make carbon brushes for older motors where brushes are unavailable. I'm hoping you already have covered these topics, but cant find anything. I realise you are concentrating on the CNC at the moment, but any pointers would be welcome.
I don't understand why you used RJ45 breakout boards. A cheap $1 dollarstore network cable comes with TWO handy breakout boards inside the cable. It's easy to access. First, you take the cable and fold it in half, then put a knife underneath it and pull. Ta da. Now you have 2 RJ45 cables complete with breakout wiring at the opposite end, $0.50 each. I don't see the benefit of doing *RJ45-to-RJ45-to-Breakout-to-Wiring-to-Controller* when you could simplify it down to *RJ45-to-Wiring-to-Controller* . It doesn't gain you anything. You can still hot swap the cables just by unplugging and moving the RJ45 end of it.
@@Jeremy_Fielding - I didn't see any, unless you're talking about where you'd need the custom cables on the upper left side? I meant the ones below. Cutting a wire in half literally makes it a breakout board, which you are wiring manually anyway pin by pin. If something breaks, you're going to have to rewire it pin by pin all over anyway. On the upper left where you need RJ45 on both ends, but crosswired ones, yeah, you'd need a custom cable. But that's so much easier than wiring breakouts boards. Cables aren't like tires, I don't really see much advantage in avoiding what might happen if you have to make a new cable. In fact... the failure point on RJ45 isn't typically the cable, it's the port itself. So now you've doubled the number of RJ45 ports, and also introduced a double set of pinchpoints for all the screw terminals. That's basically a 300% increase in the likelihood of parts failure from parts count alone, let alone the fact that your parts increase are all places that are significantly more likely to be failure points than if you'd just left it as a continuous custom wire for the cost of a $0.25 crystal. It's nitpicking for sure, but I don't think I would've made the same choices. I think you sacrificed reliability to gain in simpler repair (possibly, maybe not even likely, because the place it's likeliest to fail is the complexity you've added). Metaphorically, it's like saying you used rusty sheet metal instead of new metal because rusty sheet metal is easy to pull the mounting bolts out of when it rusts through. You'd fix 90% of the problem by not adding the hack to make it easier to repair. I dunno, whatever, just nitpicking, great work as always and I do appreciate the aesthetics of the build even if it's a bit cludgey of a solution.
Now that all the cables terminate at the outside of the box I think the best solution is a short custom cable inside the box. Regular cable outside. The crimping tool cost about the same as the breakout boards. I bought both at the time. But that decision was made months ago when I didn’t have the benefit of hindsight. A 50 foot custom cable seemed like a bad choice and a switch board protected in the box seems better. On a different note...I try not to argue for the “best solution” anymore...there will never be total agreement on that. Every video brings about at least 20 or more people who don’t like something or disagree with some choice I made. I learned from reading thousands of comments that we all tend to choose solutions which favor our background knowledge, tools and personal skills. People find it difficult to first consider the skills, tools, knowledge of the person they are advising... sort of like giving me your prescription glasses and saying “ see how much better that is” we all do it including me. I just talk to enough people about it to be self aware.
@@Jeremy_Fielding - I think, depending on the spirit of the discussion, it's generally a good thing. It means you've engaged and inspired people enough to the point where they're considering what they would do if they were you. It often comes off as "You're wrong", but I suspect 90% of the time it's "This made me think of X". It almost always is for me, though I should be more careful in the way I phrase things.
I definitely have a fairly large group here who always gives constructive criticism. The funny part is the professional engineers often email me instead of posting in the comments. I definitely need that though (the comments and the emails). It makes future projects and videos better. I can easily flip what I said above and say that nearly every video produces ideas better than mine. It is hard to match the experience and knowledge of the crowd. Especially since so many of you design, build and make things... both DIY level and professional. Actually even the complainers make me better...though I hate to admit that in writing. I have learned a great deal from people who where really just trying to get under my skin.
why would you make this machine native 3 phase? literally all commercial CNC machines are all single phase 220v to all the servos. the only 3 phase motor is the coolant pump, sometimes a spindle. theres no need to run 3 phase on a low power machine like this. you will find a plasma and wood router and gantry router won't happily coexist.
For the RJ45 option, you can do away with ALL those pieces except the cable. Get a tool to crimp your own cable and just learn the pin-out for each cable and input on the controller. Then you just put the individual twisted pair wires in the appropriate location on the male cable end and plug it into the controller. If you have 8 RJ45 connectors, buy 8 cables of different colors (get CAT6), one for each location, and get them at least 2x as long as you need, so you can cut them in 1/2 so you can make an extra or backup (or if you make a mistake). Allow for length needed to route cables. You can probably do away with 8 of those boards this way and about 200+ connections that could all be a point of failure. I've made 100's to 1000's of custom cables like this and they work well. If you ever need to run USB long distances, I found running over CAT5 works really well, you just double up the connectors, so it uses a single twisted pair (2 wires) as one USB cable, with will give you a total diameter/gauge 4-8x greater than USB cables - so there is less V drop and greater amperage capacity. I got it to run well over 75ft with standard USB2/3 over CAT5 cable w/ no "extenders" or powered aux devices.
Hey Jermey my bro.. Love this set of videos but like u it's the electrical side of the build that is throwing me for a loop. I have bought the extruded aluminium, I have 2 Nema 17's with the TB6600 drivers, I have the belts, pulleys, limit switches and I'm waiting on my Arduino's to come along with some Dupont jumpers, etc but I think I'm missing something. My drivers say I need btwn 9-42V so is a 24V DC power supply good enough to run my 1000 x 1000mm CNC.. I haven't bought the Spindle or power supply as yet bcos I'm lost atm. I need to get some more steppers as well. I wanna run a 3 Axis CNC. I think it's enough for me as a starter machine. Those proximity switches look decent to use. I might decide to use those bcos the limit switches look very small and the weight might be too much. I'm only using only 2020 extrusions so it won't be too heavy I suppose. Do I need a VFD as well to run this thing? I keep reading this but I don't understand how this works, OBVIOUSLY! LMAO.. I think it's really cool that Solidworks gave u the money or help to build this massive CNC. I wanna say thanks but I really hope u could build a smaller one for the hobby DIY guy like me.. It's cool that ur teaching ur children in the workshop plus they're learning some of the coolest stuff every bro. U make me constantly wish I had taken more notice when I was in school. I turned 50 last month and I'm only finding I have a real passion for this stuff along with woodworking which lead me to these CNC machines in the 1st place. Now I have a lot of the build stuff but I know I have more to get. I'm thinking of taking some classes if I could find some on electrical engineering while also learning about the CNC build at the same time. Could u tell me if there's a course I could look for in electrical stuff that I could do to get a much better grounding in all of this? Sorry if I'm asking a lot pal but I always ask these questions of people like u but very rarely get answers to them.. I would greatly appreciate ur input if u have the time or if anybody in the comment section could help me out a little with some information.. Thanks for the awesome video set though mate. I'll be watching much more of ur content from now on bcos it's made me feel a little bit better about trying to build my own CNC only a heck of a lot smaller of course.. LOL Salute to u Jermey from Dublin, Ireland..
To your comment about the kids in the shop- Sage and Well said my friend! If you can't explain it to a 7-10 year old to the point THEY understand it- then you dont know it either... BRAVO Mr. Fielding!
🇺🇸🇦🇷 One of the things that I most liked is the fact that you teach your kids about it. There are some kids that know crap of NOTHING because their parents entitle them or “ don’t have time or protection them from I don’t know what “ Very knowledgeable this is not the first time I’ve seen your videos.
The reason the RJ-45 wires were in the 'wrong' order is because there are 3 different types: rollover, crossover & straight through. rollover is 1-8, 2-7, 3-6 etc, crossover swaps 2 pairs if I remember correctly, 3s & 5s if I remember
Alternative method to the RJ-45 'translator' solution you showed: If you have an RJ-45 cut/crimp tool then you can just make your own custom wire by reordering one side of the connectors properly. Then you don't have to use the 'translator' . Both things take time though, and this solution would require that you have the RJ-45 Crimp/Cut tools and spare RJ-45 connectors as well as the networking wire needed to make your own custom RJ-45 connection. I have those things but most don't.
RJ45 connectors go on what's called twisted pair cable or category cable, ie: CAT5, CAT5e, CAT6, etc. Rather than a breakout board i would recommend just terminating cable with the right combination on each end. If you don't know how, but need it done, look for a local shop/business that does low voltage work including building networks. Go five a technician and tell them what pin out you need. I can do it in a minute and if i was close to you I'd just do it for you.
Can a viking sewing machine motor be utalized for anything? Also there is a circuit board connected to the power cord. Would it be useful for anything... I'm new to this and I dont wanna toss something useful..lol
Not sure about exactly how NO contacts can be programmed in the CNC world. In Canada (I would believe it's the same in the US), by regulation, fire detection apparatus are required to be NO and connected in parallel if more than one device is connected to a single circuit. To detect malfunctions, end-of-line resistors are use to insure circuit integrity. Personnaly, I prefer NC circuits for most of my contraptions. Keep up your excellent work!
I'm going to take a butchers at Solidworks tomorrow evening while I'm out in my small workshop. It's nowhere near the size of yours.. I'm rewatching this video again right now Jeremy..LOL.. I love the information u put into this so I need to watch it a few more times. I will take notes tomorrow and work from there.. Thanks again pal..
When using break-out boards for Ethernet/RJ45/8P8C connectors, be aware that those types of connector are usually used for data that is somewhat sensitive to electromagnetic interference (both from outside noise and from cross-talk between wires of the same connector), with the problem usually being mediated with the use of twisted pairs of wire. If you don't know much about the data going through, assume you need to use twisted pairs after the breakout, or if you can use tiny wires, cut off the connector and use the pretwisted pairs inside directly.
Jeremy, how about mounting a tig torch with a wire spool feeder to the CNC and see if we can 3D metal print with it? I'm a former welder/fabricator, toolmaker machinist and Mechanical Engineer and will help.
bit.ly/2zaQKB0-Solidworks-Free-Trial
Try Solidworks for free right now online!
$4000 to buy, $1300 yearly rent. LOL
I enjoy your content and thank Solidworks for a smart sposorship!
Jeremy Fielding will you be offering the plans for sale?
What are those robust limit switches? would love to use them for a diy elevator bed
@@satxsatxsatx Hopefully you have seen by now that it is $99 yearly
The last few minutes of this video is why you are our favorite DIY youtuber.
Jameson White Well said mate.
Everyone - please click the link to show solidworks that we appreciate them sponsoring jeremy
The problem with limit switches that you comment is the reason why in the industry it's so common to use current signals instead of voltage ones. The 4-20mA protocol is the most common, in which 4mA is logic zero, and 20mA is logic one, but if you read 0mA that means the signal path (or the sensor) is broken. These signals usually just pass through a resistor to generate a voltage and that voltage is then assigned a logic value.
I laughed out loud at the ask me how I know part, because, ask me how I know?
When you know, you KNOW. Haha
It's stuff like this that makes me love this channel. The little details we all sometimes miss and other channels pretend never happen.
its that or you forget to put the heatshrink on the wire before you solder it up too. son of a....!!!!
schel sullivan I think we all feel that pain...
@@TuttleScott
And you haven't left enough slack to cut it and start over.
Man, I cant describe to you how much this video helps me. Please please do more in videos like this. Super big thanks.
The rj45 you need is a crossover ethernet cable. Or for 20 dollars or less on Amazon you can get a crimper kit so you can make your own rj45 cables
when he shows the breakout board it looks like more than just the rx/tx wires are crossed over.
This is an awesome video series. I just found your site today and I have to say, I truly enjoy your delivery and content. Thank you Jeremy. I look forward to watching some more.
Jeremy, my daughter is now in her 30's and renovating her second house " by herself". I have to hope that letting her help as a child influenced her confidence to think through any challenge.
Great video, Jeremy. I'm really enjoying this series. One note about wiring your quick-disconnects. Your description of soldering the solder cups is a recipe for cold solder joints. The wire should be fixtured in the solder cup first, then be soldered in place. If you fill the cup with solder first, then by the time you insert the wire, all of the flux will have burned off and the solder is likely not to properly wet the wire. Also, you can use normally closed limit switches on a single input by wiring them in series. This way any one that opens trips the controller.
WHOA. Your comment on the limit switch closing the circuit means the switch is pressed close (or normally open).
Limit switches should always always be normally closed, so when they fail, they fail open and your motors don't drive whatever into the frame, burning out the motor and doing damage.
You're my new favorite youtuber, BTW. I just don't want your beautiful machine to be able to tear itself apart.
My bad, right after I commented on this you mentioned the difference. You didn't cover the pros of normally open switches though.
I'm so happy RUclips recommended this channel to me. such a cool dude with really interesting projects. One of the best DIY engineering channels I've seen, definitely deserves more subs.
I really love your videos, including this one. But for me as a German it is really funny how you say "DIN". DIN is a german abreviation which stands for "Deutsche Industrie Norm" which translates to "German Industry Standard" in english. The "I" in DIN is a long vocal so it should sound more like "dean". 😉
The best instructional video I have seen. Thank you!
So glad to see more content from you!! As for the encoders you want to get RJ45 Crossover cables.
or a rj45 plugs and crimp tool rewiring to encoder
But still makes it a special cable though vs you can use any cable though
yeah just buy the 2 dollar crossover cable
Brother Jeremy we are waiting for your space craft,but truely am really always pleased with your hand making great,you inspire too much let God enlarge your skills.
NO and NC is the "de-energized" state of the relay/switch, i.e., the state it's in when it's disconnected from all power sources, and not necessarily the "resting state, the condition it is in all the time". I only think this clarification is needed because we use NO and NC relays at work, but we often have them wired to be constantly energized (so basically "NO, held closed" or "NC, held open"), so "the condition it is in all the time" wouldn't necessarily match up with what pins are actually connected.
A properly applied crimp pin for instance in a connector shell beats a soldered wire to pin connection any time. Soldered connections are not common in panel building. Under some versions of electrical code, they are actually prohibited in some instances for instance in high current power carrying conductors.
1st: If you didn't want to spend the money on a RJ-45 break out board (those things get expensive), and don't want to worry about breaking a custom cable, you could make a short length of custom wired cable that goes from the component to a bulkhead connector in the panel side. Then run from the bulkhead to the component on the machine with a normally wired cable. This way, your custom wired cable is safe inside the cabinet and you have standard cables outside in any potentially dangerous areas, without the expense of the breakout board. The other is that you were showing wiring all of the switches in parallel for not being able to detect one of several NC switches opening. If you wire the NC switches in series, you can detect one of several NC switches opening. Further, for safety critical applications, both the NO and NC side of the switch should be monitored as NC contacts can't detect shorts or failures to open and NO contacts cannot detect wire breaks. Remember, a damaged cable doesn't always fail open, sometimes it will develop a short between conductors, especially if it manages to flex and chafe through insulation. Wire the NC sides in a series loop, and wire the NO sides in a parallel group. The control should monitor for both the NC and NO circuits to be in the "safe" state. Probably overkill for limit switches, but a must for multiple e-stops or palm button controls.
Sounds like he could maybe have just used an off the shelf crossover ethernet cable?
You can Series the limit switches in NC configuration.
blainemaxwell Please check the description for more details on this
@@Jeremy_Fielding i also think you could do that, and i cant find anything in the desciption, Have i missed something?
wanted to say the same thing. limit switches in NO configuration are wired in parallel, in NC config you wire them in series. voila ;-)
+1
If you put your NC switch in series, any toggled switch will open the circuit, thus telling you that a switch has been triggered...
It just makes the broken cable problem more difficult to solve... and you will need connectors to jump from one switch to the other...
@@ocAToccd He said that he has a limited number of inputs, and the nc in series is the best option for that. Sure, its more difficult to find the fault that way, but only marginally. And even then its easier to find and repair this electrical fault than Repair a bent Router frame.
At 12:47 you say you can't wire multiple normally closed switches together if you want any one of them to cut the power. Your diagram showed the switches connected in parallel, so any one would bypass another. But, if they were in series, they would function properly. With positive "OR" logic, we want normally open switches in parallel. With negative "OR" logic, we want normally closed switches in series.
Yeah... there is a note in the description about this.
@@Jeremy_Fielding The note seems to be missing?
There was some kind of error and it reset back to the original description. I added it again. It should be there now.
Hey man, love your videos, curiosity only - you said in the part 2 you’d say how much it cost you in the next video... didn’t see that...?
I've been looking for that same information I kept watching the video over and over thinking I missed it somewhere.
Love your videos. Also very curious as to your build cost. Please reveal.
Jeremy, excellent video explaining the POWER Supply for a CNC machine. I would hope you explain couple of things about VFDs. 1. Which is the better VFDs to use for especially at home, since the homes in the US are single phase 120/220. I have read that getting a spindle that is 2.2Kw and 220 volts is not good to run on a VFD that takes 120/220 volts single phase and converts it to 220 volt 3 Phase. It would great to hear your point of view since you have done excellent videos on various motors. :)
Re: the soldering, the melt-and-dunk method may not be wise: generally you want all the metal involved to be at the same temperature to prevent a bad joint ("cold joints" can look and feel solid but not actually be soldered.) If the wires can't take the heat required without melting their jacket, you can separately tin them (well), and then do the melt-and-dunk, but maybe hold the iron at the joint for an extra second or two to make sure it's all bonding.
I can't make a straight box or many of the other things you find easy but I have been soldering for 40 years (!) and I would respectfully suggest you add a technical correction to the description as described above. Otherwise you run the risk of a bad joint or worse - an intemittent connection which is a pita to diagnose. I think this is shaping up to be a great series and I'm looking forward to the next episode. Proud to be one of your patreons.
Nice video. I like the advice about having your children out in the shop. I did have a quick comment about your limit switch NC vs NO answer. I hadn't thought about it before as my controller wants the switches NO. There are two sets of pins on the controller for each axis. They are the same electronically and the controller figures out if the positive or negative switch was tripped based on its movement. When you said that having NC switches connected prevented you from having multiple switches connected, that isn't true. You just need to wire them in series vs parallel. That way if any one of the switches or connecting wires creates an open circuit, the controller will stop. I like the idea of sending a positive signal from the switch vs no signal and assuming all is good. The odds of your wiring developing a short when using NC configuration seems very minimal vs. in the NO configuration having a wire or connection break and always sending an all clear signal. I am going to check my controller to see if it will allow the NC signal and if it does, I just may switch which terminal I am using on the switches.
P.S. I send a link to your video where you were showing off your new CNC machine and he has been drooling ever since as he would love to have something like that in his shop. :-)
You're a good Dad Jeremy. Thanks for the video.
heh im the oppsite, build a box square and level!?! what is that witchcraft! box with a billion wires, yea most of them are ground the rest are doing something no problem where's a napkin
How many hours or days would it take me to get the ways straight parallel and level?
My guess is a month if I don't give up part way through.
Wire up a dozen limit switches, multiple power rails, BLDC motors with position feedback, an E-Stop, etc... No problem.
I've wired up a small 3 axis CNC before. A friend did all of the mechanical parts. The only fasteners I put in myself were for holding cables in place.
Maybe the wire you needed off the shelf was a "crossover" Ethernet cable? There are really just two types of RJ45 cables (crossover and straight through), unless the company who manufactured the encoder did something really special just for their stuff (a possibility). Your pin out board is a better flexible solution to make any off the shelf cord work as long as you know the pin out it needs to be. Probably save yourself money than buying "special made" cords from any manufacturer.
Great video! You're a wonderful teacher.
Like a crossover cable? Where the wires are crossed so the order of wires is different at one plug than the other. They have them, but I don’t know if the order is right. You can cut the end off, reorder the cables and crimp on a new connector.
Hi Jeremy. I came over to look at your videos after watching Bills' video that he did on DC motor closed loop. I thought that I finally found what I have been looking for after years of research, however he used a potentiometer for feedback. I have been an industrial CNC tech for over 35 years now and every machine that I have ever installed or repaired uses encoders. It seems like many people think that steppers and servos are about the same. Steppers are for toys in my field. I am looking for someone to use the cheap DC gear motor with encoder to design a closed loop "mini" system. As far as a CNC, I would only use AC servo, if I had the money. That not being the case, because I am basically poor, lol, I have to resort to old used DC motors. If you could some day design the closed loop 24 volt DC gear motor with encoder, I would appreciate it more than I can tell you.
search my channel for treadmill servo motor. I have already done this.
As for soldering, if you take a small piece of thin solder and twist it inline with strands of the wire, you can then put the wire into the cup and hold the iron on top of the wire and the solder will melt and make the connection. I have wired a lot of solder cups.
Great video! Love seeing kids in the shop.
There you go again, sharing with viewers more than just how to do the electromechanical 'stuff'.
Your kids are blessed to have a dad like you. 👍
For someone who wants to have a try/play with CNC I would recommend getting an Arduino UNO and install GRBL on it, then you can just use a couple of very cheap stepper motors with control board ($3 each on ebay) cobble together something very basic to move a pointer around and then experiment with what you can do with the software. Making a full size CNC router is not more more difficult than this, just needs bigger stepper control units :-)
To quickly create some gcode to try on it have a search for JSCUT
BTW - Have a look at GRBL on an ESP32 - this is really impressive
You just need a crimp set for RJ45 for custom cables - would safe quite a lot space in your setup
LOL... "Ask me how I know" Honestly I can not even remember the number of times I soldered connectors together and then had that DOH... Moment!
Bro awesome video. You are the perfect teacher . I learned lot of your youtube chanel.
Geeze! You’re a creative polymath! I’m glad you’re teaching and sharing what you know. From what I see of kids today, very few are ever even exposed to the kinds of knowledge you have.
Very good 👍
You are a genius Jeremy. Thank You so much.
Congrats on 200k Jeremy! Nice job!
Subs are hoppin!
Excellent sir. Well done. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
What was the cost? I missed the spreadsheet.
Fantastic! Keep up the good work (being a dad). Also the project is great too.😀
Reminds me i need to get the kids more evolved
To wire multiple limit switches in normally closed couldn’t you put them in series?
Eli Deaver Please check the description for more details on this
@@Jeremy_Fielding all I see in the description is a link to a article about npn vs pnp.
@@Jeremy_Fielding there is nothing in the description about this you are using mechanical switches there is no transistor output. If they are wired in series with NC then any one limit switch tripped will break the digital signal to the plc and so will do the same if you only had your one limit.
I think there was an error or something. I added a correction to the description and then it wasn't there?? I don't know what happened, but I added it again. It should be there now.
You're a beast, man. Solid work.
the software for programming your servo drivers ought to have the ability to assign pins, making the "translation" boards unnecessary.
As always a very well made and interesting video.
Thanks.
Thks .......... however the actual equipment/electronics are very distracting/intimidating. But when you showed a diagram/schematic, my anxiety when away, I claimed down, & I started understanding again. Yeap unless it's simple, it's pretty complicated to me & quite of few other folks. ???Oh Oh Oh what is the best KISS book for SolidWorks that would have made learning it for you a piece-of-cake in hind-sight (hopefully thin too)???
Jeremy, I discovered your channel a week ago and it didn't take long till I subscribed. You are awesome, I like the way you keep it within a range of understanding and leave the rest to us to figure out. That makes your videos so fantastic. You explain and teach us so much yet leaves us with just the details to figure out on our own for our personal application. I think it's safe and so smart.
By the way, when you said "ask me how I know", I knew the answer to that because I did it too, more than once. lol...
A month ago I was given an old industrial copier machine and an old industrial color printer. I took them apart and kept all I wanted, maybe a little more. Later on is when I found you. I don't know what I'm going to do with all those small stepping motor, compared to the large one you found in that copier machine. If you don't live too far from me I may ask you if you want anything I don't need and I'll send them to you. I live in central Alabama. I have tons of parts I hoarded for a long while which most I probably never use. I never sell anything, I give it away or I throw it away.
I also dismantle a threadmill and kept the parts, now that I saw how you made a bench power supply out of it I need to find the box where I put all that electronics in. I want to make one just like yours, it's awesome...
Thanks again for an awesome channel. Keep the great work.
I use to love to watch my dad build things. I learned so much stuff from him like this. Good on you for involving your children.
Thank you sir.
Hi, any chance you can show a close up of the soldering process, I’m not sure I understand what you mean about filling the cup and dunking the wire in?
I will consider this... I plan to do more videos around this topic so I might be able to show that somewhere.
For several normally closed limit switches, hook them in series.
Great Idea... I hate I missed that. There will probably be 100 comments from people telling me I could do that LOL. I will add a note to the description. This is a simple and probably obvious solution to people who design these cabinets for a living.
@@Jeremy_Fielding I was going to suggest this but since you know, I won't.
This being an overview presentation I would not expect such details. I'm sure there's videos of people soldering cup terminals. In fact searching the term soldering cup terminals several pop up.
Why use the RJ45 Switch board? You can cut one end of the cable and wire a new RJ45 connector onto the end in your new configuration. They also make a much smaller RJ45 breakout. Why use these at all? What was the problem of just cutting the end off and stripping back the jacket the amount needed and wire in directly? Just seems like extra expense and no one would have been the wiser.
There is a note on the screen about the "making a custom cable" option.
be careful when sizing transformers for power supplies. Full wave rectified DC with filter capacitors will yield 1.417 x (transformer's AC RMS voltage) = peak, with no load.
Only reason I mention it is because if someone is looking to source an Xfmr for a project, they should be aware that it's not as simple as grabbing a 24 v transformer to create a 24v DC supply.
When I was in IT support, we used a RJ45 that allowed PC to PC connection.. I wonder if that would work as a replacement for the RJ 45 BOB?
Skip Evans it’s called a crossover cable and I was thinking the same thing.
You show the multiple NO in parallel, you can do multiple NC in series. It is just a bitwise AND or OR arrangement.
can i suggest a topic... which is totally self-directed. but which effect everyone of us... 'gadgets' that will make life easier as we age. stuff that will allow us to do the day to day crap we do now, but when we're 'old' - and 'old' is different for everyone - how can we live in our homes longer.
All I have to say is you're awesome. Really happy I found your channel. Did you build that CNC machine that's featured in this video?
Yes... there are other videos before this one about it
Have any recommendations on sourcing treadmills to gut? Craigslist? Scrapyard?
About the “eathernet switch” you made, Siemens makes connectors that you cut the cord and you can wire the connectors any way you want. You don’t need to strip them either, you just line them up and clamp it together (the connector and the wires are everything you need.) it’s what we do at work for this sort of thing. I’m very impressed with how compact you made the control cabinet! Although it is a bit messy, but it’s not going to a customer, so works for me! 😂 haha
That cabinet is pretty nice I'll show you some messy cabinets lol
As an electrician we use cat5 or cat6 connectors. A crimping to which is only about 20 bucks is needed though. For communication we use the b color code. From connecting one pc to another pc we use a on one end and b on ther other. There are connectors for data cable that doesn't require crimping tool but they are bulky and expensive.
Ahhh electronic controls....fun stuff. Use this all the time in food processing / manufacturing.
Jeremy. i am so happy to "meet" you on RUclips. you are doing
a terrific job. please keep up all the informative videos, great content,
and hard work. so honest: "ask me how I know !?!"
'A-Plus'...jumping the 80volts. just like jumping 12v on the back of a gauge cluster.
but...your information..."makes my old head spin".
any, and all, negative comments are just (know-it-all =) "yada, yada, yada."
so very proud of you and all of your hard work.
very best to you and yours. walt.
Hey Jeremy, here’s to a very good channel, 🍺and one question from one engineer to another, where are you able to source some of your aluminum extrusion profiles from for non-retail prices? Any clues/hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
568b Crossover Cable Maybe?
What makes servo *sp? motors so much more expensive?
You are a fantastic parent. I feel the best thing you have taught your kids is to have an inquisitive mind! You have also taught them by example to be lifelong learners and problem solvers!! Great job!!! You are a great role model for all dads!!!
You're making great progress. Sharing your hobby with your kids- making memories they'll recall years from now.
You actually popped for RJ45 breakout boards? If you cut one open, it's just eight wires in 4 twisted pairs, and you can run them wherever you want. If you break out the wires yourself, that might've made cable management easier (hard to tell exactly without being there), and if the twised-pair-ness is important for signal integrity, you'll get more protection the closer they are to the signal generator when they un-twist.
I see your point about not making a custom cable for A-B conversion, though: I'd hate to come across an ethernet (read: Cat 5) cable with different pinouts on either end.
Well, take my "advice" with a grain of salt, as I'm still in the theoretical stage of designing with these cables and haven't yet cable-managed or put them on an oscilloscope. Also, I'm pretty comfortable with soldering; if you're not, a pre-made breakout board could save quite some frustration. "Don't ask me how I know." ;)
For the cat5 "translator" you might be able to find a "punch-down block" that is the kind of thing used when doing telecom wiring with all kinds of RJ cables (as long as you don't need the twisted-pair nature of the cat5 cable, which it sounds like you probably don't)
Great job on the video. Description was easy to understand. Great engineering. Congrats on sponsor! Mahalo for sharing. : )
All good stuff. 🧠 I like your explanations and visuals. And cudos, (Dad & kids) for the fun🤺 and teaching moments 🎓with the kids. 👍
Smile on my face Made By You Jeremy! Works well and what I needed to Fit my day! ~ Thanks!
note: I don't make or really understand all this, but I DO Know ~ W0W! Look how much you've done! I Enjoy listening about ALL created.
Hold Close the Sound a Energy of Your Kids - They grow up too fast! Hi to them & 'Mom' there as well! Cheers to All : } ~- *
You are one of the finest in explaining these concepts to the average Joe like me. And I’m sure students already in the field (ing) love it as well. Thanks for all you do!
What a great video, especially with your family. Sometimes you just need to step back, take break so your mind can clear n figure a solution to what is a speed bump inyour thought process. Having yourkids come in, ask some simple or even crazy questions, to get you over that bump and figure your way to move along. You are a remarkable person, n a great dad. Everyone is learning, in more ways than one. I feel better now just watching. I learned something. At 66 some times its hard to teach an old dog new tricks. 40 years as a residential journeyman electrician, now retired, a breath of fresh air is sometimes what you need. Thanks so much for sharing, n wish more parents lived life like you. The world needs more parents like you.
I was looking for the how much you paid part . It was mentioned in the episode before that it will be on the last episode and its not here .
Funny. Me too.
Just to be pedantic, Technically the connector is RJ45, the wire is CAT3/5/6/7etc
To be correctly pedantic, the connector is a an 8P8C modular plug. RJ45 is actually a telecommunications standard that designates a connector that is very similar to (but not exactly the same as) an 8P8C modular plug, and also a particular wiring configuration (a single telephone line wired to the middle two pins and a sense resistor across another pair of pins.
Steve Hodge I owe you one Pedantapoint, I’ll give it to you later once I earn one on a different comment, I’m tapped out right now.
@@ryanblakeslee1406 Just imagine how horrific the experience of trying to find a real RJ45 socket would be (8P8C plugs fit in RJ45 sockets but not the other way round).
0:18 Proma THC in the control box! I won't be taking any of your advice and that's for starters.
Not to mention no shielded cables or ferrite beads on the wiring!
Yeah… turns out it didn’t work. But you say this as if you have never made a bad purchase? Weird. We all make mistakes:) thanks for watching
@@Jeremy_Fielding I admit that i have made some bad purchases in the past, namely my first wife!
@@rosswoolley2854 WOW... thats cold. And public LOL
Amazing work on this video.
You're the only person I know to be able to ask...or would trust the response to. Is the video titled "Free power - how to convert an old washing machine into a water powered generator" (by Angry Ram) for real? Would that REALLY work?
Unrelated to this video, but I cant find much information on net about how universal motor brake works (other than a general description). Also how to make carbon brushes for older motors where brushes are unavailable. I'm hoping you already have covered these topics, but cant find anything. I realise you are concentrating on the CNC at the moment, but any pointers would be welcome.
I don't understand why you used RJ45 breakout boards. A cheap $1 dollarstore network cable comes with TWO handy breakout boards inside the cable. It's easy to access. First, you take the cable and fold it in half, then put a knife underneath it and pull. Ta da. Now you have 2 RJ45 cables complete with breakout wiring at the opposite end, $0.50 each. I don't see the benefit of doing *RJ45-to-RJ45-to-Breakout-to-Wiring-to-Controller* when you could simplify it down to *RJ45-to-Wiring-to-Controller* . It doesn't gain you anything. You can still hot swap the cables just by unplugging and moving the RJ45 end of it.
You missed the note on the screen
@@Jeremy_Fielding - I didn't see any, unless you're talking about where you'd need the custom cables on the upper left side? I meant the ones below. Cutting a wire in half literally makes it a breakout board, which you are wiring manually anyway pin by pin. If something breaks, you're going to have to rewire it pin by pin all over anyway. On the upper left where you need RJ45 on both ends, but crosswired ones, yeah, you'd need a custom cable. But that's so much easier than wiring breakouts boards. Cables aren't like tires, I don't really see much advantage in avoiding what might happen if you have to make a new cable. In fact... the failure point on RJ45 isn't typically the cable, it's the port itself. So now you've doubled the number of RJ45 ports, and also introduced a double set of pinchpoints for all the screw terminals. That's basically a 300% increase in the likelihood of parts failure from parts count alone, let alone the fact that your parts increase are all places that are significantly more likely to be failure points than if you'd just left it as a continuous custom wire for the cost of a $0.25 crystal. It's nitpicking for sure, but I don't think I would've made the same choices. I think you sacrificed reliability to gain in simpler repair (possibly, maybe not even likely, because the place it's likeliest to fail is the complexity you've added). Metaphorically, it's like saying you used rusty sheet metal instead of new metal because rusty sheet metal is easy to pull the mounting bolts out of when it rusts through. You'd fix 90% of the problem by not adding the hack to make it easier to repair. I dunno, whatever, just nitpicking, great work as always and I do appreciate the aesthetics of the build even if it's a bit cludgey of a solution.
Now that all the cables terminate at the outside of the box I think the best solution is a short custom cable inside the box. Regular cable outside. The crimping tool cost about the same as the breakout boards. I bought both at the time. But that decision was made months ago when I didn’t have the benefit of hindsight. A 50 foot custom cable seemed like a bad choice and a switch board protected in the box seems better. On a different note...I try not to argue for the “best solution” anymore...there will never be total agreement on that. Every video brings about at least 20 or more people who don’t like something or disagree with some choice I made. I learned from reading thousands of comments that we all tend to choose solutions which favor our background knowledge, tools and personal skills. People find it difficult to first consider the skills, tools, knowledge of the person they are advising... sort of like giving me your prescription glasses and saying “ see how much better that is” we all do it including me. I just talk to enough people about it to be self aware.
@@Jeremy_Fielding - I think, depending on the spirit of the discussion, it's generally a good thing. It means you've engaged and inspired people enough to the point where they're considering what they would do if they were you. It often comes off as "You're wrong", but I suspect 90% of the time it's "This made me think of X". It almost always is for me, though I should be more careful in the way I phrase things.
I definitely have a fairly large group here who always gives constructive criticism. The funny part is the professional engineers often email me instead of posting in the comments. I definitely need that though (the comments and the emails). It makes future projects and videos better.
I can easily flip what I said above and say that nearly every video produces ideas better than mine. It is hard to match the experience and knowledge of the crowd. Especially since so many of you design, build and make things... both DIY level and professional.
Actually even the complainers make me better...though I hate to admit that in writing. I have learned a great deal from people who where really just trying to get under my skin.
You are a natural born teacher! Thanks for sharing this awesome project!
why would you make this machine native 3 phase? literally all commercial CNC machines are all single phase 220v to all the servos. the only 3 phase motor is the coolant pump, sometimes a spindle. theres no need to run 3 phase on a low power machine like this. you will find a plasma and wood router and gantry router won't happily coexist.
For the RJ45 option, you can do away with ALL those pieces except the cable. Get a tool to crimp your own cable and just learn the pin-out for each cable and input on the controller. Then you just put the individual twisted pair wires in the appropriate location on the male cable end and plug it into the controller. If you have 8 RJ45 connectors, buy 8 cables of different colors (get CAT6), one for each location, and get them at least 2x as long as you need, so you can cut them in 1/2 so you can make an extra or backup (or if you make a mistake). Allow for length needed to route cables. You can probably do away with 8 of those boards this way and about 200+ connections that could all be a point of failure.
I've made 100's to 1000's of custom cables like this and they work well. If you ever need to run USB long distances, I found running over CAT5 works really well, you just double up the connectors, so it uses a single twisted pair (2 wires) as one USB cable, with will give you a total diameter/gauge 4-8x greater than USB cables - so there is less V drop and greater amperage capacity. I got it to run well over 75ft with standard USB2/3 over CAT5 cable w/ no "extenders" or powered aux devices.
Hey Jermey my bro.. Love this set of videos but like u it's the electrical side of the build that is throwing me for a loop. I have bought the extruded aluminium, I have 2 Nema 17's with the TB6600 drivers, I have the belts, pulleys, limit switches and I'm waiting on my Arduino's to come along with some Dupont jumpers, etc but I think I'm missing something. My drivers say I need btwn 9-42V so is a 24V DC power supply good enough to run my 1000 x 1000mm CNC.. I haven't bought the Spindle or power supply as yet bcos I'm lost atm. I need to get some more steppers as well. I wanna run a 3 Axis CNC. I think it's enough for me as a starter machine. Those proximity switches look decent to use. I might decide to use those bcos the limit switches look very small and the weight might be too much. I'm only using only 2020 extrusions so it won't be too heavy I suppose. Do I need a VFD as well to run this thing? I keep reading this but I don't understand how this works, OBVIOUSLY! LMAO..
I think it's really cool that Solidworks gave u the money or help to build this massive CNC. I wanna say thanks but I really hope u could build a smaller one for the hobby DIY guy like me..
It's cool that ur teaching ur children in the workshop plus they're learning some of the coolest stuff every bro.
U make me constantly wish I had taken more notice when I was in school. I turned 50 last month and I'm only finding I have a real passion for this stuff along with woodworking which lead me to these CNC machines in the 1st place.
Now I have a lot of the build stuff but I know I have more to get. I'm thinking of taking some classes if I could find some on electrical engineering while also learning about the CNC build at the same time.
Could u tell me if there's a course I could look for in electrical stuff that I could do to get a much better grounding in all of this?
Sorry if I'm asking a lot pal but I always ask these questions of people like u but very rarely get answers to them.. I would greatly appreciate ur input if u have the time or if anybody in the comment section could help me out a little with some information.. Thanks for the awesome video set though mate. I'll be watching much more of ur content from now on bcos it's made me feel a little bit better about trying to build my own CNC only a heck of a lot smaller of course.. LOL
Salute to u Jermey from Dublin, Ireland..
Hi Regarding your RJ45 "Translator" get yourself a RJ45 crimper and make yourself a Cross-over Ethernet cable.
To your comment about the kids in the shop- Sage and Well said my friend! If you can't explain it to a 7-10 year old to the point THEY understand it- then you dont know it either... BRAVO Mr. Fielding!
🇺🇸🇦🇷 One of the things that I most liked is the fact that you teach your kids about it.
There are some kids that know crap of NOTHING because their parents entitle them or “ don’t have time or protection them from I don’t know what “
Very knowledgeable this is not the first time I’ve seen your videos.
The reason the RJ-45 wires were in the 'wrong' order is because there are 3 different types: rollover, crossover & straight through. rollover is 1-8, 2-7, 3-6 etc, crossover swaps 2 pairs if I remember correctly, 3s & 5s if I remember
Alternative method to the RJ-45 'translator' solution you showed: If you have an RJ-45 cut/crimp tool then you can just make your own custom wire by reordering one side of the connectors properly. Then you don't have to use the 'translator' . Both things take time though, and this solution would require that you have the RJ-45 Crimp/Cut tools and spare RJ-45 connectors as well as the networking wire needed to make your own custom RJ-45 connection. I have those things but most don't.
RJ45 connectors go on what's called twisted pair cable or category cable, ie: CAT5, CAT5e, CAT6, etc. Rather than a breakout board i would recommend just terminating cable with the right combination on each end. If you don't know how, but need it done, look for a local shop/business that does low voltage work including building networks. Go five a technician and tell them what pin out you need.
I can do it in a minute and if i was close to you I'd just do it for you.
Can a viking sewing machine motor be utalized for anything? Also there is a circuit board connected to the power cord. Would it be useful for anything... I'm new to this and I dont wanna toss something useful..lol
Not sure about exactly how NO contacts can be programmed in the CNC world. In Canada (I would believe it's the same in the US), by regulation, fire detection apparatus are required to be NO and connected in parallel if more than one device is connected to a single circuit. To detect malfunctions, end-of-line resistors are use to insure circuit integrity. Personnaly, I prefer NC circuits for most of my contraptions. Keep up your excellent work!
Hi Jeremy , I have a question please , if I will buy brushless motor , say 100 kw . Should I buy 100 kw gasoline generator to run this motor ?
I'm going to take a butchers at Solidworks tomorrow evening while I'm out in my small workshop. It's nowhere near the size of yours..
I'm rewatching this video again right now Jeremy..LOL.. I love the information u put into this so I need to watch it a few more times. I will take notes tomorrow and work from there.. Thanks again pal..
When using break-out boards for Ethernet/RJ45/8P8C connectors, be aware that those types of connector are usually used for data that is somewhat sensitive to electromagnetic interference (both from outside noise and from cross-talk between wires of the same connector), with the problem usually being mediated with the use of twisted pairs of wire. If you don't know much about the data going through, assume you need to use twisted pairs after the breakout, or if you can use tiny wires, cut off the connector and use the pretwisted pairs inside directly.
Jeremy, how about mounting a tig torch with a wire spool feeder to the CNC and see if we can 3D metal print with it? I'm a former welder/fabricator, toolmaker machinist and Mechanical Engineer and will help.