For all the concrete lovers If you have a welder and some scrap steel You can make your own (wet set) brackets Some rebar and some steel plate Weld up the brackets to whatever size lumber you bought 4x6 6x6 etc. Set your brackets into the wet concrete filled sonotubes and bolt your lumber in Dont have to worry about rot and still have a good anchor to the ground
I helped my neighbor put in posts. We used Pea rock on the bottom and to fill around the post. The idea is drainage. When I am 110 yrs old I will let you know how they held up.😅
Post protectors hold moisture that can’t escape the post best thing to do is shou sugi ban... aka In English burn the wood with a torch to char it. Scientist say it preserves wood up to 100+ years. The screw holes will allow moisture inside that plastic cap
Allen suburb Homesteading , there are drain holes in bottom. Posts generally rot at ground level...not from moisture alone but in combination of moisture, soil microbes, and oxygen. Post protectors keep the soil away. Posts in water generally don’t decay very quickly.
@@LancoAmish The problem with wood is that it rots fairly quickly if it's moisture content stays above 22%. Some woods like cedar have a lot of natural resistance to decay. Most lumber doesn't have a lot of resistance to decay. Contact with soil is definitely ideal for rot, but wood will also rot without any soil contact, as long as the 22% + moisture content is sustained and air is available. This is why entire houses rot out ( eg see Vancouver leaky condo mess) No contact with soil there but oxygen and moisture in the walls due to leaky acrylic stucco. The posts rot at ground level as the bacteria have what they need here- above 22% moisture wood + air. I don't think the sleeves will stop rot if the wood still is getting damp and staying damp. It's good that you are using pressure treated, we know that holds decay back for quite some time, depending on the type of pressure treatment used.
If you don't want you posts to rot you, should NOT put concreate at the bottom, you should use gravel. And then you SHOULD use Secure Set Foam. Once it cures you slice off the top and make it a slight downward pitch from pole to ground, on all four sides. This keeps water from pooling up at the post and helps keep the water from saturating the post. Secure set is used for fence posts but for such a small pole shed it will work just fine. Plus you can start framing the same day. Way less mess and weight to be moved.
12ft post in the ground at 12 to16 inches deep thats a new one on me. Also posts absorb water and gavity pulls it straight down and now the post is in a plastic bucket
Thanks for watching and your constructive criticism. The bottom of the footers are at 32”. That’s what is important. Have you ever seen posts set on top of piers totally out of the ground? I’m not too worried that my building is going to blow away since a lot of structures much larger than this are built off site and placed on skids on top of the ground. The post protectors work. They’ve been sold and proven for a long time. How do you suppose water gets into them if they are inside a structure? Posts generally rot at ground level where moisture, soil, and oxygen combine. The post protectors keep that part of the post protected and they do have weep holes on the bottom.
When it rains, won't rain water get in from the top? I know there are weep holes at the bottom, but it seems to me that rain water would get in from the top and the covered part of the post would stay moist all season long.
Got treated fence posts embedded in concrete for over 30 years and fence still standing. Isn't there anything you can simply coat the posts with that'll do the same thing if you're that worried. Your choice.
How deep did you set those posts? Looks as if one of the uplift preventer protrusions on the sleeve is still above ground level...also, what besides the 4 screws through the sleeve prevents the post from simply lifting out of the sleeve in a high wind event?
Thanks for watching. There’s a story behind that but I won’t bore you. Yeah, one of them isn’t set too deep. The concrete though is below the frost line. I’m not too concern with uplift as the prevailing winds are out of the west and that’s the low side of the shed roof plus the building is enclosed. Good eye!!
I see that these have optional drainage holes at the bottom. When are these useful? My understanding is that the lye in the concrete reacts poorly with the treatments in the lumber, causing potential failure. I've been told that you want it tight with no drainage to make sure there's no interaction with the concrete base.
The posts can be set on a gravel base also. So the drain holes would be ok. I didn’t really drill mine out but may have mentioned I did. My posts are completely inside the shelter so there was no way for water to enter in from the top.
How Do Postsaver Sleeves Stop Your Fence Posts Rotting? - RUclips I'm going to use this with the product you used. or maybe tar the whole thing, for extra protection
Thanks for watching! They are pretty expensive to be used for fence posts so I’ve only used them for poles in buildings where the water cannot run in from the top.
I have set hundreds of posts with concrete mix. I just poor it in the hole DRY. Even in a dry climate the mix will harden overnight. If you do not believe me just try it. No need to play in the mud!!
That sounds like it would work…I saw a couple of guys make retaining walls that way but they just laid the bags of dry cement down on top of one another the way you would with big rocks and let nature do the rest.
I have this roles of industrial plastic for chemical spills if I staple it around the post and seal the staple will this work. The plastic it's tough like a rubber membrane
I would think so as long as water cannot get in from the top or get trapped inside. . Posts rot the worst at the ground level so be aware of that area the most.
Great idea to protect your posts but what am I missing here? Why are they set at a 1/4 inch off the string, surely they touch at both ends and just off through the rest of them?
Jason Jeffers , I wouldn’t see an issue but I think they are manufactured for normal dimensional lumber though (not rough sawn). I went with treated as they are easier to find where I am. Thanks for watching and I’d appreciate a subscribe if you haven’t already.
Manuel Santiago , normally the poles are enclosed by the barn. There shouldn’t be any water in from the top unless the roof leaks. There are also weep holes you can drill out on the bottom of the protectors. Water by itself won’t rot wood. It’s the ground contact with soil that contains fungi that rots. That is why you will see posts rotting off at ground level.
Bryan Reed , that’s odd. I’ll have to check that out. They were added in order published. Wouldn’t be the first time RUclips did crazy stuff. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your time. I don’t think there’s any perfect way to prevent wood from rotting. Most posts rot at the ground level even telephone poles after time. It’s that area that needs the most attention because oxygen, water, fungus, and warmth are most present there. These sleeves keep that area of the post dry and out of contact with the soil. In my area now the telephone poles are all being treated and wrapped in that ground contact area. Have a great day and thanks again for watching.
wow that is like putting you post in a bucket of water, that plastic will hold water for a long time, at least if it is in the ground the dirt will absorber the water, I wound not use that in my opinion.
Thanks for watching. The sleeve keeps post from contacting the ground at the ground level where rot generally occurs first. There are weep holes in the bottom of the sleeve. Have you noticed any work being done on older power and telephone poles in your area. The post at ground level is being remediated because even those poles are decaying at the level.
Mommy does a terrific job holding the camera for you! Very steady.
For all the concrete lovers
If you have a welder and some scrap steel
You can make your own (wet set) brackets
Some rebar and some steel plate
Weld up the brackets to whatever size lumber you bought 4x6 6x6 etc.
Set your brackets into the wet concrete filled sonotubes and bolt your lumber in
Dont have to worry about rot and still have a good anchor to the ground
Hey, is it possible that the wood would eventually rod after 10 or 20 years? Would it be better to use steel?
@@jackies35 steel will rust and root the wood
I helped my neighbor put in posts. We used Pea rock on the bottom and to fill around the post. The idea is drainage. When I am 110 yrs old I will let you know how they held up.😅
That’s 30 years.
Started with the no sag gates and also learned about the post protection great videos ! Thanks liked the cost over lay. At the end !
Thanks so much for watching. Have a great evening!
Post protectors hold moisture that can’t escape the post best thing to do is shou sugi ban... aka In English burn the wood with a torch to char it. Scientist say it preserves wood up to 100+ years. The screw holes will allow moisture inside that plastic cap
Allen suburb Homesteading , there are drain holes in bottom. Posts generally rot at ground level...not from moisture alone but in combination of moisture, soil microbes, and oxygen. Post protectors keep the soil away. Posts in water generally don’t decay very quickly.
@Chet Carson, thanks for the tip.
However, I will add that not everyone is a farmer, so this great tip for the DIY'er is not "common sense".
@Chet Carson Well, I'll run to the Dollar Store and get me a bucket full.
@Chet Carson more money than common sense, ouch
@@LancoAmish
The problem with wood is that it rots fairly quickly if it's moisture content stays above 22%. Some woods like cedar have a lot of natural resistance to decay.
Most lumber doesn't have a lot of resistance to decay.
Contact with soil is definitely ideal for rot, but wood will also rot without any soil contact, as long as the 22% + moisture content is sustained and air is available.
This is why entire houses rot out ( eg see Vancouver leaky condo mess) No contact with soil there but oxygen and moisture in the walls due to leaky acrylic stucco.
The posts rot at ground level as the bacteria have what they need here- above 22% moisture wood + air.
I don't think the sleeves will stop rot if the wood still is getting damp and staying damp.
It's good that you are using pressure treated, we know that holds decay back for quite some time, depending on the type of pressure treatment used.
If you don't want you posts to rot you, should NOT put concreate at the bottom, you should use gravel. And then you SHOULD use Secure Set Foam. Once it cures you slice off the top and make it a slight downward pitch from pole to ground, on all four sides. This keeps water from pooling up at the post and helps keep the water from saturating the post. Secure set is used for fence posts but for such a small pole shed it will work just fine. Plus you can start framing the same day. Way less mess and weight to be moved.
Thanks so much for watching. I appreciate your time.
So, do the washers have rubber or neoprene washers included? Otherwise, you're just putting holes in the plastic protectors...
Yes, rubber washers are included.
12ft post in the ground at 12 to16 inches deep thats a new one on me. Also posts absorb water and gavity pulls it straight down and now the post is in a plastic bucket
Thanks for watching and your constructive criticism. The bottom of the footers are at 32”. That’s what is important. Have you ever seen posts set on top of piers totally out of the ground? I’m not too worried that my building is going to blow away since a lot of structures much larger than this are built off site and placed on skids on top of the ground. The post protectors work. They’ve been sold and proven for a long time. How do you suppose water gets into them if they are inside a structure? Posts generally rot at ground level where moisture, soil, and oxygen combine. The post protectors keep that part of the post protected and they do have weep holes on the bottom.
When it rains, won't rain water get in from the top? I know there are weep holes at the bottom, but it seems to me that rain water would get in from the top and the covered part of the post would stay moist all season long.
@@chrisa6965 Thanks for watching. The posts are entirely enclosed inside the building.
Got treated fence posts embedded in concrete for over 30 years and fence still standing. Isn't there anything you can simply coat the posts with that'll do the same thing if you're that worried. Your choice.
Those things start at $26 for a 4x4 post. That’s crazy.
If they keep the post from decaying they are worth every Penny. I have no desire to replace posts in the future.
How deep did you set those posts? Looks as if one of the uplift preventer protrusions on the sleeve is still above ground level...also, what besides the 4 screws through the sleeve prevents the post from simply lifting out of the sleeve in a high wind event?
Thanks for watching. There’s a story behind that but I won’t bore you. Yeah, one of them isn’t set too deep. The concrete though is below the frost line. I’m not too concern with uplift as the prevailing winds are out of the west and that’s the low side of the shed roof plus the building is enclosed. Good eye!!
Omg what a great thought!!! You’d need a chain over the roof system in some areas! Lololol
OSHA approved Crocs 😁
D B , you better believe it!! 🤣
I see that these have optional drainage holes at the bottom. When are these useful? My understanding is that the lye in the concrete reacts poorly with the treatments in the lumber, causing potential failure. I've been told that you want it tight with no drainage to make sure there's no interaction with the concrete base.
The posts can be set on a gravel base also. So the drain holes would be ok. I didn’t really drill mine out but may have mentioned I did. My posts are completely inside the shelter so there was no way for water to enter in from the top.
How Do Postsaver Sleeves Stop Your Fence Posts Rotting? - RUclips I'm going to use this with the product you used. or maybe tar the whole thing, for extra protection
Thanks for watching! They are pretty expensive to be used for fence posts so I’ve only used them for poles in buildings where the water cannot run in from the top.
I have set hundreds of posts with concrete mix. I just poor it in the hole DRY. Even in a dry climate the mix will harden overnight. If you do not believe me just try it. No need to play in the mud!!
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your time and your suggestion. Have a great evening.
That sounds like it would work…I saw a couple of guys make retaining walls that way but they just laid the bags of dry cement down on top of one another the way you would with big rocks and let nature do the rest.
I have this roles of industrial plastic for chemical spills if I staple it around the post and seal the staple will this work. The plastic it's tough like a rubber membrane
I would think so as long as water cannot get in from the top or get trapped inside. . Posts rot the worst at the ground level so be aware of that area the most.
Not sure if it will cause the post to sweat? If so that could cause rotting problems. Not sure? Just an idea
Do you think that plastic ever crack?
Thanks for watching. It may at some point but if it adds 10 years of life to the poles it’ll be worth it.
Great idea to protect your posts but what am I missing here? Why are they set at a 1/4 inch off the string, surely they touch at both ends and just off through the rest of them?
Thanks for watching. The string line is run from a stake at both ends. It wasn’t attached to the posts. So all the posts were off the string 1/4”.
You sent corner post first then put a spacer on each corn 1/4 1/2 or whatever that way if one post if off it won’t throw the next post of
Could a person simply use none treated post with these protectors?
Jason Jeffers , I wouldn’t see an issue but I think they are manufactured for normal dimensional lumber though (not rough sawn). I went with treated as they are easier to find where I am. Thanks for watching and I’d appreciate a subscribe if you haven’t already.
How do you seal off the top..
Where water can get in...
The bottom can collect water..
Manuel Santiago , normally the poles are enclosed by the barn. There shouldn’t be any water in from the top unless the roof leaks. There are also weep holes you can drill out on the bottom of the protectors. Water by itself won’t rot wood. It’s the ground contact with soil that contains fungi that rots. That is why you will see posts rotting off at ground level.
Your playlist for building this Pole Barn is listed in reverse order on RUclips
Bryan Reed , that’s odd. I’ll have to check that out. They were added in order published. Wouldn’t be the first time RUclips did crazy stuff. Thanks for watching.
Where can I find your post “sleeves”?
Tony Rodgers, Home Depot online. They are shipped from the manufacturer to your home. Search for “post protectors”
Garden Spot Acres Thank you!
The pole will still rot if water gets in the liner.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your time. I don’t think there’s any perfect way to prevent wood from rotting. Most posts rot at the ground level even telephone poles after time. It’s that area that needs the most attention because oxygen, water, fungus, and warmth are most present there. These sleeves keep that area of the post dry and out of contact with the soil. In my area now the telephone poles are all being treated and wrapped in that ground contact area. Have a great day and thanks again for watching.
These posts will be inside a building, not left out in the weather, so rain will not be filling the sleeves.
You were supposed to drill weep holes in the marked spots at the bottom of those post sleeves.
Thanks for watching. They were done off camera. A lot going on trying to build and film at the same time.
wow that is like putting you post in a bucket of water, that plastic will hold water for a long time, at least if it is in the ground the dirt will absorber the water, I wound not use that in my opinion.
Thanks for watching. The sleeve keeps post from contacting the ground at the ground level where rot generally occurs first. There are weep holes in the bottom of the sleeve. Have you noticed any work being done on older power and telephone poles in your area. The post at ground level is being remediated because even those poles are decaying at the level.
Just build it in a pier system
The plastic sleeves seem so sketchy to me. My little voice that I never listen to is saying nooooo lol
Thanks for watching. Most decay occurs at ground level. Anything that would keep the soil from contacting the pole in this area would work.
Now see I'm a cheap hillbilly. I wager I could make my own plastic sleeves instead of buying these. I bet they're proud of em at the building supply.
Thanks for watching. I bet you could too !
$25-$30+ apiece @ Home Depot, depending on whether they are 42" or 48" long...