DIY: Brushing Yakisugi "Shou Sugi Ban" by Hand
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 май 2021
- In this video, we take yakisugi "shou sugi ban" and use brushes to knock the soot layer off by hand. Using the charred wood we created in our DIY: Burning Shou Sugi Ban video using the traditional Japanese "flue method", we try to match our Gendai™ and Pika-Pika™ products using different types of brushes to see what works best. This was a trial-and-error learning experience for us, and was tons of fun!
Wood used: Japanese Cypress (Cryptomeria japanica) commonly referred to in Japanese as "Sugi" (yaki=charred, sugi=cypress)
Read the full write-up at: nakamotoforestry.com/diy-what...
Learn more about yakisugi at nakamotoforestry.com
Follow us on social media for daily charred wood content!
Instagram: / nakamotoforestry
Pinterest: / shou_sugi_ban
Twitter: / _shousugiban
Facebook: / nakamotoforestry 
Хобби
My wife uses this method for most of our meals 😂
Ha lol. Such an under-rated comment.
Effing HILARIOUS!!
5 Stars!!!😂😂
Fire comment!
I see you copied this comment from another video 😊
Same here. 🤣
If curling and woodworking had a baby...
I make a non-uniform geometric plant pot out of a chunk of cedar from the backyard. Simply revealed the beauty, carved a depression into it, charred it, brushed it, charred it, brushed it, charred it, brushed it, charred it and finished brushing it. The deep ravines are amazing to feel. I planted a cedar from the old one inside the dip.
Circular, it all comes back into itelf.
Would love to see a video or photos of that
Thank you for this post 🙂
So cool
Very good!
Hello.. great video and so helpful.. appreciate what you do
Surely brushing off the char also reduces the protection?
Why do you not do the sides of the boards?
After the washing how much sut fransfer if there? How might you reduce the sut transfer
I wonder what it would look like with power washing...
Does anyone know if Shou Sugi Ban will prevent or deter CUPPING of Poplar boards ?
??? Does pouring water on after the burn do more than just stop the fire and coal burn ?? Does the cold water "shock" and retract the grain to tighten the pours ?? Or....does fracture the debri scaling of the excess char that would hold water ??? Maybe nothing but stopping the burn, but the process is for rot. So I was wondering if this is a required process.
Not trying to be funny, but I wonder if a carpet shampooer would work in place of scrubbing by hand. The water comes out the nozzle. The nylon bristles do the work and then it sucks the water back off. I think that’s worth a shot. I’m not quite ready yet though but I think I’m gonna give it a go.
I appreciate you sharing these videos with us. There is so much to learn with this process and you have been a great resource.
I am going to install Shou Sugi Ban siding on my cabin build this summer. Being from eastern Canada, the closest comparable product is larch. I milled it last year, bought a jointer and thickness planer and plan on making 6” wide shiplap. I have a few uncertainties that hopefully you can help me with.
1) Should this burning be 100% the traditional way? Or can there be use of torch?
2) I hope to have my siding fade as little as possible and remain black. Is this possible w/o burning it to a gator crisp?
Appreciate any advice.
Keep up the good work folks. Thank you.
If I apply your technique to a beekeeping hive, will the plank distortions be large? The hive should only burn on the outside. Thank you.
In my experience, yes, and no. For preservation, the burning should be penetrating for it to be effective, and it's difficult to maintain consistency across the entire length of a board. For sheds, or boxy structures in general, I'll start with boards that have similar moisture content. I'll cut them anywhere from an ⅛", to as much as ⅜", oversized, depending on how exposed that area will be to the elements. I only treat the end grain at this point, and after clearing off all the soot, I assemble the frame, and treat the whole thing as a single piece. It takes more time than I'd prefer, but the end result comes out looking like something out of Tolkien's Shire. Overall, there's an appearance of knurled, and warped, ancient wood, but getting straight lines where I need them is usually pretty simple. It helps to have a small torch on hand for precision burns at any problem areas.
If the inside must go untreated, treat the individual boards prior to construction, and then run them through your table saw for a clean interior edge. In all cases, removing all the soot is is a must. It's not just carcinogenic, it's a sponge waiting for moisture.
I definitely have reached the same conclusion with nylon brushes, however I prefer a shorter bristle. My favorite is an 8x2½" that came with 2" bristles. I racked the bristles down from their original 2" on one side to, ½" on the other. Unless soot has to be managed however, I couldn't disagree more about using water. Are you finding another benefit with the use of water, outside of dust management?
I have oak pallets that I want to use to make a raised garden bed.
Is it an absolute must to wire brush off the charcoal since it's going to be covered with dirt on the inside?
Thank you
From what I've seen from other videos - on the contrary. Keeping the charcoal should even increase the protection. (Speaking from my understanding, not experience or expertise)
Seeing the brush marks against the grain doesn't seem great. There were few shots of the wood dry. Can't see much when it's wet.
Great job I did the same as you 2 years ago with red pine boards on my house the have totally faded from the sun is there any natural sealants I can use too stop further fading any help is appreciated thank you
i'm no expert at all, but i know they say this technique should ideally be used with cedar boards, so that might make a difference. For natural sealants, I can only think of linseed oil and tung oil (natural oils that harden into a film), but again i'm not particularly knowledgable on this.
Hi
Really good and informative edit.
But I don’t get it in the end… what was a bad ide? Was it to use wire brush?
/ Carl-Johan Appel
Lapland Sweden
I believe he was referencing trying to brush the soot off without using water to help. The water keeps the soot from becoming an airborne dust that can be really messy.
😍Ummm just teach me how to get 2:39 !!
Too bad that the video didn’t show the different effects for each brush. Could have been very helpful
EXACTLY what I was thinking...
Why would you char only one or both sides of the wood?
This is an exterior siding material. Charring one side allows it to keep dimensional stability while still protecting the exposed side.
@@NakamotoForestryNorthAmerica dimensional stability? If you only char one side you will often experience cupping and exaggerated curving and deformation of the board look for the video titled "Why is charring timber cladding both sides important?"
@@andrewrance haven't been in the industry long, huh?
@@BeeBaitgreat observation, thanks for the comment.
@@andrewrance do you have any references showing burning both sides? I've only seen one ever done
Здравствуйте, выглядит круто!
Только почему обработка только с одной стороны?
it's an ancient Japanese tech to protect rotten by moisture and insects from the outside of the building. Only one sided because if it is inside, there would be health problem of charcoal for people.
Is it necessary to brush off (with water) if the boards are under a roof housing a travel trailer? I can see doing this on a house build. Also, is there a reason to use oil to apply a stain coat once the boards have been brushed/water/cleaned? In another video, you stated that the Japanese do not apply oil (they like the age look of the wood), but I didn't catch if the Japanese oil the boards at all???? I'm doing some research from your videos & Japanese videos that teach the real burning (but I don't speak Japanese)...🙂
None of this is "necessary." We simply wanted to show viewers how to take traditional Suyaki yakisugi and brush off the topmost soot layer to create a different surface texture we call "Gendai." The Japanese traditional method is typically to just burn the wood and install it as-is, without any oil finish.
@@NakamotoForestryNorthAmerica -- Thank you! It's very fascinating & smart, burning wood to protect it. I love learning about the Japanese culture. 🙂
I believe that the purpose of the water is to stop dust from flying around. If they hadn't used water then it would have been very, very dusty in there. The amount of brushing takes off different amount of charring. The more brushing gives a lighter end result but also probably takes away some of the protection.
@@NakamotoForestryNorthAmerica Wait...you don't have to oil finish to protect the wood? Even for exterior, exposed to the elements 24/7 use like raised garden beds? Wouldn't the oil give it a longer life?
since som temples used this method in the 1300's
how much more longevity do you need?
Hi, great video!
is it gonna work on terrace that is exposed to sun, snow, rain and wind?
Do you use any other tree than cypress tree?
Why not just pressure wash?
I wondered the same thing after researching different brushes. Did you try it?
I think it's like cleaning a fish by water pressure, you just force water in, and it's not good.
3 guys an hour to transport, prep, burn brush, dry... all the steps.. yikes! Beautiful but, only $900 a square ft by the time you install it.(exaggeration)
I got some on clearance for a bathroom feature wall, The lumber yard couldn't sell it... too expensive.
Crazy that much water for one piece… Can just imagine the cost too.. Brutal
Pressure washer with a qualifiedan operating it. Perhaps 1200psi. Save Labor.
While it'd be faster, we strongly advise against using pressure washers for knocking down the soot layer or washing yakisugi. The high pressure will damage the wood fibers, compromising the strength of the board
Offering no before and after photos of the different techniques and no links to purchase the brushes used in the demonstration gives me a feeling this video could have been better.
Fair! We should've included some before and after shots. As for brushes we used an industrial hard-bristle brush.
@@NakamotoForestryNorthAmerica your video was great. You explained everything as good as needed.
@@NakamotoForestryNorthAmerica
Hey
I have some questions.
Is the brushed ones less durable?
Can any color including white be added to the surface without reducing its longevity?
It used to look like wood. now it looks like this. Looks like a scrubbing brushes from home depot
I watched the preview on the thumbnail from my homepage and it was enough to know the tools and process after a few seconds. I think you just might need some extra help