Thanks man, Best part of the job is solving things, proper job satisfaction! Really appreciate the comment mate been following your stuff for years really enjoy it 🙌👍👍
Brilliant work mate. I liked the choices you made regarding pipe routes and think it turned out as good as it could be. It’s nice the way these things come together, once you make a start and it goes into place like it did. Thanks 👍
Thanks mate, your right once you decide on a plan of action all seems to fall into place, little disappointed about the wall but always going to happen, was happy how it turned out in the end 👍
Hello mate. Brilliant copperwork, coming off the center makes sense, you shouldn't doubt yourself too much, you've got to where you are for a reason. I hate those anti vibration slithers with a bloody passion! Wanted to know how much i should charge to install one those heaters and do a similar run of pipework. Thanks
I could your pain as you lifted the rad onto the supports! Those rubber bits are a nightmare and at least one usually drops off. I've even glued them into position before the lift!! Tricky pipework but a good result but why the black pipe supports!!
Hate those rubber parts, I’ve tried PTFE wrapped around them the other day, worked ok…I switched to black ages ago to be honest just look better in my opinion…few have said should of been white, might have looked better on this one
Great upload yet again. On a plasterboard wall, what's the best way to stop the wall brackets from digging into the plasterboard when hanging those rads? I just left it, customer couldn't see it. I was thinking of cutting a little off some 15mm pipe and using it as a foundation through the plasterboard for the brackets to sit on. All the best
I’ve had quite a few of these “decorative” rads create debris in heating systems especially plate heat ex’s always apprehensive about fitting them, and yeah your right they don’t kick out much heat… look fancy though 😂 top work fella 👍
Cheers mate, I’ve took one off after a few months before and there’s been some deposits come out of them, not sure how good they am for system or efficiency but to be honest I’ve got all my house in designer rads now 😅
@@bluebulldog_uk had a customer brand new rads all through the house “designer” ones system filled with crap after a few months, we reckon it’s cause half of that sat at some docks somewhere during Covid and got corroded 🤷♂️
I always do one wrap of PTFE around them grommets on the brackets🤣 absolute nightmare when you’ve fitted it for the 10th time and realise they’ve fell off again!🤣🤣
I think I'd have put a set in further up, gone over that pipe and connected in with a couple of street elbows. Considering flow and that socket, maybe your choice was better? Also, why not white clips? Nice job tho - I'd have been happy with it👍
You did the best you could with the pipe work on the existing rad, perished plaster blowing like that is a pain in the arse I used to take my drill off hammer when I was almost through to minimise it but when it’s that powdery it’s going to make a bit of a mess It can be patched up though, no drama Nice job in the end You did what you could to do a decent job and that’s what counts 👍
Really enjoying your vids mate. I think you did a really good job with those rads to be honest! Also i like your dust sheet....i have a few like that too 😉
That plaster was very soft. It was going to flake off even if you looked at it funny! New rad looks spot on. Other one looked like they had swapped from a smaller size rad, hence the 13A socket location!
Your right mate, bigger rad covered up the socket, and that plaster when it goes like that, nightmare like you said always going to happen unfortunately
Fairplay bro, nothing you can do about the plaster. Looks a nice finished job all in all. Those rads are a pain in the arse. We fitted 14 in a property early summer and those crappy plastic things on the brackets are a pain to keep all four on when lifting on your own! All the best mate, cheers.
I changed our old radiators at home for these type and the tall ones are seriously heavy to get up on the wall regardless of how tall you are! Ours were weren't directional but they all heat up ok although a bit unevenly at the start.
I mean what can one do with plaster, you did what you could and it still blew. I hate those brackets, I always find the brackets can be spot on, but if one of the brackets is poorly made or the rad is slightly out no matter how plumb or level your brackets are, one is always not sitting right lol. Nice pipe work!
There's no good solution on job like that. First of all, the client should have bough a radiator with a middle bottom connection (it these are available in the UK). Hiding the pipes would be an option as well, but it requires chasing the walls, plastering and painting. When I hang big heavy radiators I take one of three options. Instead of measuring everything, I just make some improvised base/stand. Then I place the radiator on that stand and position it precisely on the wall. I also use quick support pole/rod to stabilise the radiator against the wall. Then I just mark the exact positions of the brackets. If the radiator is really heavy, I put it flat on the floor and place bracket in their positions and I take measurements from that. Of course if I can measure precisely without unnecessary lifting of the radiator, I do it, but some designer radiators are peculiar to take any measurements. As for drilling through the wall, sometimes it helps to put a piece of plasterboard/XPS/plywood against the wall on the other side. Just press it firmly and block it with a heavy toolbox. It prevents the render form being ripped off.
I found the only way to get these to heat up fully and evenly was to put a bleed valve on both sides. I think the design traps air a lot more than conventional radiators
Great tip, I'm a DIYer and had 3 of these installed in my house, but they would give me numerous problem from dripping sounds to not heating up. I had to open the bleed valve and the nut on the opposite side to get the air out, but great idea of having bleed valves on bot sides.
I had to go round and fit after market baffles to all my tower rads (5 of them) none came with. No instructions, the plumber didn't know either. Researched and did it myself
Blown plaster happens no matter what trade . Sometimes it is what it is. Secondly that socket def needs blanking off again can tell it was there before the rad . Some comments relate to that socket . If a rad cover is going back in place that socket is redundant anyway. Maybe other work is being undertaken thats why the customer was happy to sort it themselves . If another room being done then the plaster will get sorted at same time .
Thanks mate, socket does need blanking off but I’m think the rad cover is fixed so won’t be used, better blanked off thou, Customer is doing some work on house your right so wanted to sort himself, good analysis 🙌👍👍
Decent job, fitted a few of those rads supplied by customers last few years, don’t think one of them has heated up brilliantly to be honest, what’s the fascination with black talon clips nowadays, white would have looked so much better clipping that pipe work.
Cheers mate…ain’t many that I’ve fitted that I can say heat up same as standard but some give out some decent heat once heated..just switched to black clips while ago as I think it looks a lot better, personal preference I suppose, I can see where your coming from thou 👍
I’ve got these exact radiators in my kitchen and lounge and they take almost and hour to get red hot, and because they don’t have convector fins they are slow at heating a room. All other normal central heating rads I have get red hot reasonably fast and heat the rooms pretty quickly. I’m considering swapping them for normal rads. A shame as they cost me nearly £800 then had to pay for them to be fitted. Agree they look the knees, but I’m thinking about practicality over aesthetics right now.
Seems a little slow to heat up do they heat up all over, like all the fins etc, might be worth trying to balance system see if it helps heat up quicker
@@bluebulldog_uk cheers mate. I actually went through the whole balancing thing albeit following a RUclips video, started with the rads upstairs closest to the boiler, closed lock shield off, opened quarter turn, next rad a little more than quarter turn etc and made my way around the system. Also system had a magnacleanse and power flush but it’s still slow to heat up. Gutted as I’m going to have to get someone out to look at it. I didn’t know if it’s because they’re such big rads these vertical ones and the pump has to push the water from the bottom up, but that was just my guess.
@@Madie839 hey, they are double panel, 1800x600 in anthracite. Honestly I’m stuck with what to do other than to get a plumber out or change them back to normal rads. I’m not kidding when I say they take an hour to get red hot from top to bottom. All other rads are fine.
Same rad here, same issues. Been battling to get it hot for a few years now. My next job was to start messing around with baffles or flip rab other way up. May just do as you've said and swap it back for a type 22
Dunno worry about those anti rattle things, the weight of the rad will slice them in half eventually and they'll end up up the hoover....... most of mine have over the years 🤣
I'm same height as you 😂 I lost out my dad and brother are both 6'2"! My previous house had plaster like that you so much as look at it the wrong way it'd blow off.
I could of tried a smaller drill bit but I don’t think anything would of stopped the wall falling apart it was quite bad, my house isn’t far from this one and all my walls am the same, having to get the house reboarded as we go along renovating
I was doing a video, the rad was so heavy it pushed the bottom into the plasterboard and the pulled the top out😅 don't think your height matter tbh I'm 6'1 and its a struggle
Had that when it pushes into wall, sometimes the wall just won’t take weight, done a similar video to this one where we actually reinforced the wall and plastered it before we fitted rad…good to know it isn’t just us short folk that struggle 😂👍
So, just a thought here, why not go straight through the wall in the lounge, it may hve worked out that at least the left hand pipe would then go straight up to the valve, and only one pipe to the right side, The lounge pipework and detail would have been so much neater.
Hate it when that happens to the wall but it can happen unfortunately, think they had a bigger radiator so unfortunately socket stayed where it was when new radiator was installed 👍
Looks like the white rad was fitted by a bad DIYer,the rad should have been removed or at least the socket should have been replaced with a blank cover or removed altogether, customers problem.The SDS mate can be your friend and your ememy,i would have used 1hour patching plaster sanded ready for paint before continuing with the pipework,you won't be able to do a good job with the pipework in situ,nothing wrong with the job mate,top knotch.😊.
You should always fix what you damage before leaving, or at least offer to have a plasterer round to fix. You could tell that dog wasn't happy with you, and I think you weren't happy yourself. You can avoid this type of damage in future. Brace the opposite wall with a piece of flat timber, which will stop the plaster bursting off in chunks. Alternatively, you could use a laser for accuracy to line up where the drill should enter and exit, and then pilot drill from both sides. SDS / hammer drills are too rough on plaster. Unfortunately, it's your drill skills that let you down here, not your plumbing. Personally, if the pipework was to remain surface mounted, I would have used chromed copper pipes, bends, and fittings. Extra cost, but a far superior finish.
Thanks for the comment Even if you drilled from other side that plaster was shot, always going to be a mess, seen it loads on houses by me, the base plaster is like sand. Yes I wasn’t happy as it feels I’ve left the job unfinished and I wanted to patch up but can’t overrule my customer Who instructed me to leave it You can’t solder chrome pipe and compression chrome fittings look horrible in my opinion, ok if just one joint but don’t think it would of looked any good on this job to be honest
@@bluebulldog_uk I'm wondering, did you give the client the option of chromed pipes? Of course, I was suggesting chrome compression or chrome push-fit, and you can get pre-bent chromed pipes, so with a bit of measuring & slicing you wouldn't have required as many joins as you soldered. It's worth considering next time. Personally, I would go for chrome compression, as some chrome push-fit aren't recommended for flow & return. Think it's to do with pressure and heat expansion. I just think that unless the client is willing to get the brasso out on a regular basis, those copper pipes will tarnish quickly giving the room the "student flat" look. Sort of defeats the purpose of installing a designer rad does it not? £300 for the rad and another £300 for fitting, and what draws the eye in the end is copper pipes on plastic clips. I think the couch is getting moved into that corner. Oh, and I nearly forgot. Plaster is sand. That's why it's a better option to drill from both sides. No hammer action, as it doesn't need it. If there's brick in between, then by all means get the SDS out, but only after you've sunk pilot holes. Trust me, I've made the same mistake as you, and I found a way to get round it.
@@ottofumbler7267 pipes will be painted more than likely when room is decorated, there was a brick wall in between as the radiator was in an extension so that was the old outside of the house. I’ve fitted chrome pipes before when customer requested but i can give customer option I suppose, don’t know how many would prefer it as most installs I’ve seen using chrome, don’t look the best
@@bluebulldog_uk I guess it's a case of personal choice regarding chromed. Looked like a nice house inside. The fact that they had a cage for the dog might suggest they're house proud. Obviously, the prime option is to hide pipework, but that's either in the walls or under the floor. Either way, it's more work, but if the client doesn't want the expense, then it's a non-starter. Seems to me that exposed copper pipes is the least visually attractive option, so unless the client asks, it's best avoided. Maybe?
Thanks mate, problem is they look nice so customers love them…so does my wife so we have them as well i places, not as good as standard rads I will say 😅
Like the fact that you got the top of the rad aligned, nice detail. If it was me then I would not have been happy with a couple of things. 1 the blown out poster needed fixing before you put in the rest of the pipe work. The second thing is how close you put the pipe work to the plug socket. You’ve just made that socket worse than useless. If someone is daft enough to plug something in then the flex will be lying across the heating pipe. This derates the flex and makes it a fire risk. Like I said they’d have to be daft enough but you never know. Let’s face it the plaster would have been an easy fix before you put the pipes in but now it’s not. Modern construction is not helping the trades for remedial work so it’s not your fault it blew out but given you are working for someone who can’t fit a rad then the chances of them being able to fix that well is slim at best. I would expect people to be able to paint, but plaster not so much. Think about it this way, if you posted that blown out plaster on instagram do you think it would attract customers? I would have contacted the customer, advised them that it’s blown out and you can fix it but you’ll have to charge them a bit of waiting time as you shouldn’t work for free. Then it’s up to them if they want to pay or leave it.
Thanks for the comments With regards to the sockets there was no way I could have put that pipe that wouldn’t have blocked the socket in some way, my thinking was if I put it low enough down it least someone can get in to blank off. With the wall I spoke to the customer straight away and was going to patch up, customer insisted they will sort out I can’t overrule the customer. With my content I have different platforms with different material, RUclips is an area I want to give people a real world glimpse into plumbing and this type of thing happens from time to time but people will now know to prepare for this to happen, hence why I put it on. No company is going to post the parts that go wrong…Ever…they will only show there best work so of course I’m not going to post a picture show casing a blown wall that I’ve been instructed to leave. Yes i agree leaving the job, getting in a professional to plaster the wall back, waiting for it to dry then returning to finish would of been an amazing finish but unfortunately it’s all extra cost and time to the customer that was happy to sort out themselves
Timely video this, I'm just about to have a large designer radiator installed by my plumber to replace two existing radiators, now I've removed a wall between my kitchen and dining room (1 rad in each previously). I'm looking at a Stelrad Vita Deco K2 model to install. I believe the dimensions are 1800x600 Can you confirm if that is the same radiator you've installed here in this video? @bluebulldog_uk
The stelrad is a decent column radiator, fitted a few for customers, however, they need to be filled very carefully, they can air lock, there’s a procedure for filling them.
Don’t forget to like and subscribe really helps us out as a channel and thank you for your support 🙌👍
Nice video man! We DO solve loads of problems. Mine is currently in extorting a baby boy. THAT is a problem! Keep going mate you’ll be fine on YT. 👍
Thanks man, Best part of the job is solving things, proper job satisfaction! Really appreciate the comment mate been following your stuff for years really enjoy it 🙌👍👍
Top class, I like the complete honesty you use. Plumbing is such a skilled job, with issues like that cropping up. Peace be unto you.
Thanks mate 👍
Brilliant work mate. I liked the choices you made regarding pipe routes and think it turned out as good as it could be. It’s nice the way these things come together, once you make a start and it goes into place like it did. Thanks 👍
Thanks mate, your right once you decide on a plan of action all seems to fall into place, little disappointed about the wall but always going to happen, was happy how it turned out in the end 👍
great job,the blown plaster is just what can happen ,and your right you have to go with what you got.great description too.
Thanks mate appreciate the feedback 👍👍
Hello mate. Brilliant copperwork, coming off the center makes sense, you shouldn't doubt yourself too much, you've got to where you are for a reason. I hate those anti vibration slithers with a bloody passion!
Wanted to know how much i should charge to install one those heaters and do a similar run of pipework. Thanks
Both in the middle, correct decision, symmetry always looks better.😊
Looking back glad i decided on middle, looked fine when finished 👍
I could your pain as you lifted the rad onto the supports! Those rubber bits are a nightmare and at least one usually drops off. I've even glued them into position before the lift!! Tricky pipework but a good result but why the black pipe supports!!
Hate those rubber parts, I’ve tried PTFE wrapped around them the other day, worked ok…I switched to black ages ago to be honest just look better in my opinion…few have said should of been white, might have looked better on this one
Great video, love the jobbing ones best! 👍🏼 you should do some on the water regs
Thanks mate appreciate the feedback 👍
Great upload yet again.
On a plasterboard wall, what's the best way to stop the wall brackets from digging into the plasterboard when hanging those rads?
I just left it, customer couldn't see it.
I was thinking of cutting a little off some 15mm pipe and using it as a foundation through the plasterboard for the brackets to sit on.
All the best
Either support wall at back if it’s plaster board, corefix screws am decent and Bullfix screws am my go to really good 👍
I’ve had quite a few of these “decorative” rads create debris in heating systems especially plate heat ex’s always apprehensive about fitting them, and yeah your right they don’t kick out much heat… look fancy though 😂 top work fella 👍
Cheers mate, I’ve took one off after a few months before and there’s been some deposits come out of them, not sure how good they am for system or efficiency but to be honest I’ve got all my house in designer rads now 😅
@@bluebulldog_uk had a customer brand new rads all through the house “designer” ones system filled with crap after a few months, we reckon it’s cause half of that sat at some docks somewhere during Covid and got corroded 🤷♂️
I think you make a pretty neat job of it, certainly couldn’t be better without a load of extra work.
Great video!
Thanks mate 👍
I always do one wrap of PTFE around them grommets on the brackets🤣 absolute nightmare when you’ve fitted it for the 10th time and realise they’ve fell off again!🤣🤣
Drives me insane 😅 I’ve been meaning to put gorilla glue on my van and just glue them on before hand
Selotape
blu tack?@@bluebulldog_uk
Good idea!
Toctite
I think I'd have put a set in further up, gone over that pipe and connected in with a couple of street elbows. Considering flow and that socket, maybe your choice was better? Also, why not white clips?
Nice job tho - I'd have been happy with it👍
Little tip mate, use a four-cutter masonry bit it helps with blowouts
You did the best you could with the pipe work on the existing rad, perished plaster blowing like that is a pain in the arse
I used to take my drill off hammer when I was almost through to minimise it but when it’s that powdery it’s going to make a bit of a mess
It can be patched up though, no drama
Nice job in the end
You did what you could to do a decent job and that’s what counts
👍
Thanks mate, still really annoyed me with plaster even thou I know it never stood a chance, one of them isn’t it..thanks for the support mate 👍👍
Hi again I noticed you tend to use black talons over white , any reason for this ?
Just prefer the look of black 👍
Neat work mate. I don’t think you could have done that piping any different a side from repiping the opposite side mate. Neat
Think if I could of re piped the other side it would of looked better but looked ok, thanks mate appreciate the support 👍
Really enjoying your vids mate. I think you did a really good job with those rads to be honest! Also i like your dust sheet....i have a few like that too 😉
Thanks mate, yeah got plenty of them dust sheets and a few other bits 😂
@@bluebulldog_uk 🤣🤣🤣
That plaster was very soft. It was going to flake off even if you looked at it funny! New rad looks spot on. Other one looked like they had swapped from a smaller size rad, hence the 13A socket location!
Your right mate, bigger rad covered up the socket, and that plaster when it goes like that, nightmare like you said always going to happen unfortunately
How do you know which pipe is flow and which one is return
Turn heating on before I start, which ever one got hot first was flow 👍
Great video mate 👍 not much you could do about the wall , pipework was as good as you could get it nice work 👍
Thanks mate 🙌👍
Fairplay bro, nothing you can do about the plaster. Looks a nice finished job all in all. Those rads are a pain in the arse. We fitted 14 in a property early summer and those crappy plastic things on the brackets are a pain to keep all four on when lifting on your own! All the best mate, cheers.
14! 😅😅 fair play mate some patience needed on your job doing that many 😂 shame about the plaster but can happen, thanks mate 👊👍
I changed our old radiators at home for these type and the tall ones are seriously heavy to get up on the wall regardless of how tall you are! Ours were weren't directional but they all heat up ok although a bit unevenly at the start.
They am horrible to lift and install! Never look forward to that part 😅
I mean what can one do with plaster, you did what you could and it still blew. I hate those brackets, I always find the brackets can be spot on, but if one of the brackets is poorly made or the rad is slightly out no matter how plumb or level your brackets are, one is always not sitting right lol. Nice pipe work!
Yeah that plaster was done for, and agree with them brackets, it’s really hard sometimes to get them spot on👍
There's no good solution on job like that.
First of all, the client should have bough a radiator with a middle bottom connection (it these are available in the UK). Hiding the pipes would be an option as well, but it requires chasing the walls, plastering and painting.
When I hang big heavy radiators I take one of three options.
Instead of measuring everything, I just make some improvised base/stand. Then I place the radiator on that stand and position it precisely on the wall. I also use quick support pole/rod to stabilise the radiator against the wall. Then I just mark the exact positions of the brackets.
If the radiator is really heavy, I put it flat on the floor and place bracket in their positions and I take measurements from that.
Of course if I can measure precisely without unnecessary lifting of the radiator, I do it, but some designer radiators are peculiar to take any measurements.
As for drilling through the wall, sometimes it helps to put a piece of plasterboard/XPS/plywood against the wall on the other side. Just press it firmly and block it with a heavy toolbox. It prevents the render form being ripped off.
Thanks for advice, designer radiators are always harder with getting the brackets in the correct place, do like your tips mate much appreciated 👍
@@bluebulldog_uk No problem. At the end of the day we all want to be less tired :)
I would have repaired the wall before fitting the pipes, near impossible to do now
I found the only way to get these to heat up fully and evenly was to put a bleed valve on both sides. I think the design traps air a lot more than conventional radiators
They do trap a lot of air, in past I have had bleed point open into a bucket for a while just to purge it all out, good tip with 2 bleed points 👍
Great tip, I'm a DIYer and had 3 of these installed in my house, but they would give me numerous problem from dripping sounds to not heating up. I had to open the bleed valve and the nut on the opposite side to get the air out, but great idea of having bleed valves on bot sides.
Top.job.real attention to detail
Thanks 👍👍
I had to go round and fit after market baffles to all my tower rads (5 of them) none came with. No instructions, the plumber didn't know either. Researched and did it myself
Fair play to you sir! You're being a bit hard on yourself, good job that.
Thanks mate 👍👍
Good stuff matey. Filming aside coming to this sort of job how much time do you give yourself.
3/4 of a day mate couple of services on way home maybe after that job or catch up on some quotes to fill up the day
You’ve done a great job there pal 👍🏻
Thanks mate 🙌👍
Good video, that rapid blue looks good, can that be used on a hot water cylinder? Or is it just radiator tails?
Used it on a variety of fittings and installs, cold mains etc been fine, does go rock solid thou, have to heat up to remove
5 ft 8 😂😂 I’ve been telling everyone it 5ft 6 😂 great video mate.
Had my big heels on that day 😂😂 cheers mate 👍
Excellent I do like your work …
Thanks mate 👍👍
Quality video pal
Thanks mate
How hard is it to undo those tails in the future now that they have locktite on them?
Gentle heat and it will come out, had to do it before 👍
Well done mate.
Thanks Max 👍👍
I think you did a cracking job there pal to be honest I would have done everything the same 👍👍
Thanks mate 🙌👍👍
Good job mate also frustrating job as well love your video’s 👍
Thanks mate 🙌👍
Looks good mate!
Thanks mate 👍👍
17:30 - tape up your ring man!!! That could've been a costly scratch or two 😂
Very true 😅😅
Why don’t they supply coloured tails?
You can get them mate just depends what valves you buy
Hi m8 what was the name of them bolts used in this video
Core fix mate 👍
Blown plaster happens no matter what trade . Sometimes it is what it is. Secondly that socket def needs blanking off again can tell it was there before the rad . Some comments relate to that socket . If a rad cover is going back in place that socket is redundant anyway. Maybe other work is being undertaken thats why the customer was happy to sort it themselves . If another room being done then the plaster will get sorted at same time .
Thanks mate, socket does need blanking off but I’m think the rad cover is fixed so won’t be used, better blanked off thou,
Customer is doing some work on house your right so wanted to sort himself, good analysis 🙌👍👍
Decent job, fitted a few of those rads supplied by customers last few years, don’t think one of them has heated up brilliantly to be honest, what’s the fascination with black talon clips nowadays, white would have looked so much better clipping that pipe work.
Cheers mate…ain’t many that I’ve fitted that I can say heat up same as standard but some give out some decent heat once heated..just switched to black clips while ago as I think it looks a lot better, personal preference I suppose, I can see where your coming from thou 👍
Really hate to hang these rads. Have to spend much time for the brackets. Flomasta and Stelrad are my all time favorite 😆
Can be a pain to get brackets correct, makes fitting a standard radiator look a dream job 😅
I’ve got these exact radiators in my kitchen and lounge and they take almost and hour to get red hot, and because they don’t have convector fins they are slow at heating a room. All other normal central heating rads I have get red hot reasonably fast and heat the rooms pretty quickly. I’m considering swapping them for normal rads. A shame as they cost me nearly £800 then had to pay for them to be fitted. Agree they look the knees, but I’m thinking about practicality over aesthetics right now.
Seems a little slow to heat up do they heat up all over, like all the fins etc, might be worth trying to balance system see if it helps heat up quicker
@@bluebulldog_uk cheers mate. I actually went through the whole balancing thing albeit following a RUclips video, started with the rads upstairs closest to the boiler, closed lock shield off, opened quarter turn, next rad a little more than quarter turn etc and made my way around the system. Also system had a magnacleanse and power flush but it’s still slow to heat up. Gutted as I’m going to have to get someone out to look at it. I didn’t know if it’s because they’re such big rads these vertical ones and the pump has to push the water from the bottom up, but that was just my guess.
@@Madie839 hey, they are double panel, 1800x600 in anthracite. Honestly I’m stuck with what to do other than to get a plumber out or change them back to normal rads. I’m not kidding when I say they take an hour to get red hot from top to bottom. All other rads are fine.
Same rad here, same issues. Been battling to get it hot for a few years now. My next job was to start messing around with baffles or flip rab other way up. May just do as you've said and swap it back for a type 22
Why did you use black clips
Switched to black about a year ago just think they look better
@@bluebulldog_uk are I see use them outside but white is better Inside looks nicer
Looked good to me mate
Thanks mate 🙌👍
Dunno worry about those anti rattle things, the weight of the rad will slice them in half eventually and they'll end up up the hoover....... most of mine have over the years 🤣
😂 least they are there for a while
I like the black pipe clips, you can barely notice them almost invisible on a nice painted wall.. who would use white clips?
What you charge for a job like that?
£300 including materials
I'm same height as you 😂 I lost out my dad and brother are both 6'2"!
My previous house had plaster like that you so much as look at it the wrong way it'd blow off.
😂😂 my whole house is like it mate, having to re board the whole house, everything back to brick as we go along doing the renovation, nightmare 😅
Your problem here is…you’ve done such a great job they gonna pencil you in to do the rest of the house 😂
😂😂 normally the way, either that or family/neighbour takes a look and fancies them in there house
Baffles missing ?
Not sure, it said inlet and outlet so makes you wonder if they should be in there
You should have drilled all the way through with a 6mm so you could drill out from both sides.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doest the same damage as bigger diameter drills.
I could of tried a smaller drill bit but I don’t think anything would of stopped the wall falling apart it was quite bad, my house isn’t far from this one and all my walls am the same, having to get the house reboarded as we go along renovating
You drilled the hole, your responsibility 🙈 this is bound to happen just prepare for it.🙉
I was doing a video, the rad was so heavy it pushed the bottom into the plasterboard and the pulled the top out😅 don't think your height matter tbh I'm 6'1 and its a struggle
Had that when it pushes into wall, sometimes the wall just won’t take weight, done a similar video to this one where we actually reinforced the wall and plastered it before we fitted rad…good to know it isn’t just us short folk that struggle 😂👍
So, just a thought here, why not go straight through the wall in the lounge, it may hve worked out that at least the left hand pipe would then go straight up to the valve, and only one pipe to the right side, The lounge pipework and detail would have been so much neater.
The left hand pipe if I had gone straight through would of been inside the wall so thought best both in middle
The offsets looked gash could have made them semetrical
Pipe work in hallway looks like a dogs dinner wouldn’t be happy with that
I was crossing my fingers for you when you were drilling through the wall and who puts a socket under a radiator
Nobody. The socket would have been there before the rad.
Hate it when that happens to the wall but it can happen unfortunately, think they had a bigger radiator so unfortunately socket stayed where it was when new radiator was installed 👍
Try ridgefix fixings, they are better than the core fixings
Will have a look 👍
You need to lift the radiator from lower down 😁
I think I would fall backwards 😅😅
Looks like the white rad was fitted by a bad DIYer,the rad should have been removed or at least the socket should have been replaced with a blank cover or removed altogether, customers problem.The SDS mate can be your friend and your ememy,i would have used 1hour patching plaster sanded ready for paint before continuing with the pipework,you won't be able to do a good job with the pipework in situ,nothing wrong with the job mate,top knotch.😊.
Such a ballache doing those rads 😡. Fair play though made it look good
They really am sometimes 😅 cheers mate 🙌👍
'were'
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Rough
You should always fix what you damage before leaving, or at least offer to have a plasterer round to fix. You could tell that dog wasn't happy with you, and I think you weren't happy yourself.
You can avoid this type of damage in future. Brace the opposite wall with a piece of flat timber, which will stop the plaster bursting off in chunks. Alternatively, you could use a laser for accuracy to line up where the drill should enter and exit, and then pilot drill from both sides. SDS / hammer drills are too rough on plaster.
Unfortunately, it's your drill skills that let you down here, not your plumbing.
Personally, if the pipework was to remain surface mounted, I would have used chromed copper pipes, bends, and fittings. Extra cost, but a far superior finish.
Thanks for the comment
Even if you drilled from other side that plaster was shot, always going to be a mess, seen it loads on houses by me, the base plaster is like sand.
Yes I wasn’t happy as it feels I’ve left the job unfinished and I wanted to patch up but can’t overrule my customer Who instructed me to leave it
You can’t solder chrome pipe and compression chrome fittings look horrible in my opinion, ok if just one joint but don’t think it would of looked any good on this job to be honest
@@bluebulldog_uk I'm wondering, did you give the client the option of chromed pipes? Of course, I was suggesting chrome compression or chrome push-fit, and you can get pre-bent chromed pipes, so with a bit of measuring & slicing you wouldn't have required as many joins as you soldered. It's worth considering next time. Personally, I would go for chrome compression, as some chrome push-fit aren't recommended for flow & return. Think it's to do with pressure and heat expansion. I just think that unless the client is willing to get the brasso out on a regular basis, those copper pipes will tarnish quickly giving the room the "student flat" look. Sort of defeats the purpose of installing a designer rad does it not? £300 for the rad and another £300 for fitting, and what draws the eye in the end is copper pipes on plastic clips. I think the couch is getting moved into that corner.
Oh, and I nearly forgot. Plaster is sand. That's why it's a better option to drill from both sides. No hammer action, as it doesn't need it. If there's brick in between, then by all means get the SDS out, but only after you've sunk pilot holes. Trust me, I've made the same mistake as you, and I found a way to get round it.
@@ottofumbler7267 pipes will be painted more than likely when room is decorated, there was a brick wall in between as the radiator was in an extension so that was the old outside of the house. I’ve fitted chrome pipes before when customer requested but i can give customer option I suppose, don’t know how many would prefer it as most installs I’ve seen using chrome, don’t look the best
@@bluebulldog_uk I guess it's a case of personal choice regarding chromed. Looked like a nice house inside. The fact that they had a cage for the dog might suggest they're house proud.
Obviously, the prime option is to hide pipework, but that's either in the walls or under the floor. Either way, it's more work, but if the client doesn't want the expense, then it's a non-starter.
Seems to me that exposed copper pipes is the least visually attractive option, so unless the client asks, it's best avoided. Maybe?
good job, sh1t rads them over grown towel rails, most expensive and least efficient.
Thanks mate, problem is they look nice so customers love them…so does my wife so we have them as well i places, not as good as standard rads I will say 😅
Like the fact that you got the top of the rad aligned, nice detail. If it was me then I would not have been happy with a couple of things. 1 the blown out poster needed fixing before you put in the rest of the pipe work.
The second thing is how close you put the pipe work to the plug socket. You’ve just made that socket worse than useless. If someone is daft enough to plug something in then the flex will be lying across the heating pipe. This derates the flex and makes it a fire risk. Like I said they’d have to be daft enough but you never know.
Let’s face it the plaster would have been an easy fix before you put the pipes in but now it’s not. Modern construction is not helping the trades for remedial work so it’s not your fault it blew out but given you are working for someone who can’t fit a rad then the chances of them being able to fix that well is slim at best. I would expect people to be able to paint, but plaster not so much.
Think about it this way, if you posted that blown out plaster on instagram do you think it would attract customers?
I would have contacted the customer, advised them that it’s blown out and you can fix it but you’ll have to charge them a bit of waiting time as you shouldn’t work for free. Then it’s up to them if they want to pay or leave it.
He said he spoke to the customer and they were happy to patch it themself
Thanks for the comments
With regards to the sockets there was no way I could have put that pipe that wouldn’t have blocked the socket in some way, my thinking was if I put it low enough down it least someone can get in to blank off.
With the wall I spoke to the customer straight away and was going to patch up, customer insisted they will sort out I can’t overrule the customer.
With my content I have different platforms with different material, RUclips is an area I want to give people a real world glimpse into plumbing and this type of thing happens from time to time but people will now know to prepare for this to happen, hence why I put it on.
No company is going to post the parts that go wrong…Ever…they will only show there best work so of course I’m not going to post a picture show casing a blown wall that I’ve been instructed to leave.
Yes i agree leaving the job, getting in a professional to plaster the wall back, waiting for it to dry then returning to finish would of been an amazing finish but unfortunately it’s all extra cost and time to the customer that was happy to sort out themselves
14:50 LOL
Shocking rads to fit. Take 5 times longer than a standard. BTW PTFE is shit, Hemp and jet blue every time
Just a suggestion but get a microphone.
Will need to invest in one I think now 👍👍
"Was we to blame for the damage"? FFS talk English! - WERE we to blame!!! DUH 🤦♂️
Timely video this, I'm just about to have a large designer radiator installed by my plumber to replace two existing radiators, now I've removed a wall between my kitchen and dining room (1 rad in each previously). I'm looking at a Stelrad Vita Deco K2 model to install. I believe the dimensions are 1800x600
Can you confirm if that is the same radiator you've installed here in this video? @bluebulldog_uk
The stelrad is a decent column radiator, fitted a few for customers, however, they need to be filled very carefully, they can air lock, there’s a procedure for filling them.
It’s not the same make and model but it will install near enough the same to be honest there isn’t much difference between them in terms of design