At least the motor has shaft grounding rings installed. Those Carriers with ABB drives are notorious for failure. I have used a 24VDC contactor in place of the drive. I believe the pink wire on the drive is the 24VDC input to the drive. In essence those are just soft starters and 2 programed frequencys. 40hz for y1 and G and 60hz for Y2,W1,W2
@@joeshearer1247 a lot of the units have a board for fan outputs. They have a rectifier and 5 DC coil relays. Using a 24VDC contactor would not require you to mess with any boards or the wiring. The 24VAC comes into the fan board, get rectified and goes to relays. Those relays go to the drive and give a start command and a speed command. By using a DC contactor i can take the 24VDC signals from the board and use them power the blower on. I dont change any wiring and if a new drive is installed its easy to install without any wiring modifications have or need to made and you still utilize the fuses and minimal work at the unit. Mount the contactor where the drive was, take the 24VDC to contactor, put motor leads on the contactor and its done. It takes me 5 minutes to do and all boards are fully functional and no wiring modifications made
Very nice fix. Is there a way to bypass the drive and run the motor at full speed if you needed to in a necessary condition? IE: Nursing home, hospital setting etc.? Thanks for great video's.
Yeah all you have to do is wire the high voltage in to the VFD and wire it to the high voltage out to the motor. Just make sure the rotation is correct. Only issue is that motor is going to run 24/7. Also if the unit is corrected to a VAV system there is nothing you can do until you replace the VFD.
@@bpscottland74 add a contactor and wire it so it only runs on call for heat/cool/fan only. (most all have a terminal that's useable for exactly that) if not make the thermostat have fan control (needs a dedicated wire). redneck fix, two contactors in parallel (or two relays and a single contactor), either way, have it turn on with power from W1 or Y1 of T-STAT. ( I can think of many other ways) add a time delay/s if your worried about it blowing hot/cold air before it pre-runs.
We’ve always noticed that the drive selected even if they’re a good quality company. The drive is always selected for the bare minimum ability to just run in the situation at the verge of being under rated. I noticed if the customer gave the OK for an 1800 + Dollar drive with the added feature of the motor reactants protection with the large heat Sinks and actually Rating them For their overcurrent maximum protection from the motor multiplied they would last decade. And that is when the VFD drive manufacturer recommends that you pull the drive and send it in to be serviced they actually have service intervals. Where they replace all the capacitors and drive modules and wear and tear items. But you have to have the room to accept the drive that’ll be about 2 1/2 to 3 times longer in length
Have you ever come across the key pad not responding to button presses? Going to change out a drive tomorrow. Wondering if I could still download the data and transfer it into my new Abb drive.
Not really a fan of where carrier mounts the control. Inside where it's going to get quite cold or quite warm. I had one fail on a brand new rtu memorial day wknd and part was back ordered til Sept. Wired motor direct then ended up going back a month later for a burned up blower motor!!!
Hey I am installing one of those drivers right now but the screen won’t come on on the vfd I am not familiar with it. Any tips you can give me on how to troubleshoot it?
Do you mind if you share the steps for programming so I don’t have to wait carrier tomorrow morning, I have to change an exactly carrier vfd, just that one has to be at the other side, nice video like always
@@MiHeatingGuy got it thanks, I'm installing a drive I believe I got all the parameters right, but for some reason my blower runs even when it's not calling for it any ideas why?
drive delete, set that sucker at obliterate (direct wired via a contactor on all motor calls) and make sure the current isn't over the motors rating. if it's overcurrent change drive pulley to slow it until good. 🤣 junktronics.
At least the motor has shaft grounding rings installed. Those Carriers with ABB drives are notorious for failure. I have used a 24VDC contactor in place of the drive. I believe the pink wire on the drive is the 24VDC input to the drive.
In essence those are just soft starters and 2 programed frequencys. 40hz for y1 and G and 60hz for Y2,W1,W2
Why would you need to do that when you could just use a regular contactor off the g call in the control cabinet
@@joeshearer1247 Perhaps in the case of digital control systems?
@@joeshearer1247 a lot of the units have a board for fan outputs. They have a rectifier and 5 DC coil relays. Using a 24VDC contactor would not require you to mess with any boards or the wiring. The 24VAC comes into the fan board, get rectified and goes to relays. Those relays go to the drive and give a start command and a speed command. By using a DC contactor i can take the 24VDC signals from the board and use them power the blower on. I dont change any wiring and if a new drive is installed its easy to install without any wiring modifications have or need to made and you still utilize the fuses and minimal work at the unit. Mount the contactor where the drive was, take the 24VDC to contactor, put motor leads on the contactor and its done. It takes me 5 minutes to do and all boards are fully functional and no wiring modifications made
Very nice fix. Is there a way to bypass the drive and run the motor at full speed if you needed to in a necessary condition? IE: Nursing home, hospital setting etc.? Thanks for great video's.
Yeah all you have to do is wire the high voltage in to the VFD and wire it to the high voltage out to the motor. Just make sure the rotation is correct. Only issue is that motor is going to run 24/7. Also if the unit is corrected to a VAV system there is nothing you can do until you replace the VFD.
@@bpscottland74 add a contactor and wire it so it only runs on call for heat/cool/fan only. (most all have a terminal that's useable for exactly that) if not make the thermostat have fan control (needs a dedicated wire). redneck fix, two contactors in parallel (or two relays and a single contactor), either way, have it turn on with power from W1 or Y1 of T-STAT. ( I can think of many other ways) add a time delay/s if your worried about it blowing hot/cold air before it pre-runs.
We’ve always noticed that the drive selected even if they’re a good quality company. The drive is always selected for the bare minimum ability to just run in the situation at the verge of being under rated.
I noticed if the customer gave the OK for an 1800 + Dollar drive with the added feature of the motor reactants protection with the large heat Sinks and actually Rating them For their overcurrent maximum protection from the motor multiplied they would last decade.
And that is when the VFD drive manufacturer recommends that you pull the drive and send it in to be serviced they actually have service intervals.
Where they replace all the capacitors and drive modules and wear and tear items.
But you have to have the room to accept the drive that’ll be about 2 1/2 to 3 times longer in length
That manual should come with each of those.
The programming stays with the little display. You can take that with you and transfer all the parameters onto the next drive you plug it into
Have you ever come across the key pad not responding to button presses? Going to change out a drive tomorrow. Wondering if I could still download the data and transfer it into my new Abb drive.
So weird, I just had same call yesterday except the drive was on left wall. Unit installed month ago
Sounds like Carrier "tech support" forgot the "support" part... well done in overcoming and adapting and helping your customer Joe despite Carrier.
Not really a fan of where carrier mounts the control. Inside where it's going to get quite cold or quite warm. I had one fail on a brand new rtu memorial day wknd and part was back ordered til Sept. Wired motor direct then ended up going back a month later for a burned up blower motor!!!
Hey I am installing one of those drivers right now but the screen won’t come on on the vfd I am not familiar with it.
Any tips you can give me on how to troubleshoot it?
Did you use the little plastic connector between the drive and the screen?
Do you mind if you share the steps for programming so I don’t have to wait carrier tomorrow morning, I have to change an exactly carrier vfd, just that one has to be at the other side, nice video like always
Go to the about me page and send me an email and I will send you the program book
Programming drives is fairly simple biggest thing is ramp speed and motor information
Dont they send them programmed?
That Would Be A Big NO
You right, I just did one but its very easy
Wouldn't it be faster to call abb?
No they're the ones that build the drive and carrier is the one that programs it for specific models
@@MiHeatingGuy got it thanks, I'm installing a drive I believe I got all the parameters right, but for some reason my blower runs even when it's not calling for it any ideas why?
drive delete, set that sucker at obliterate (direct wired via a contactor on all motor calls) and make sure the current isn't over the motors rating. if it's overcurrent change drive pulley to slow it until good. 🤣 junktronics.
PWM motor drive